WO2009030518A1 - Lightening agents and lightening method - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to agents for lightening keratin fibers, especially human hair. Said agents are obtained by mixing two separately packaged preparations, a lightening powder that is solid at 20°C and a developer dispersion that is liquid at 20°C, the lightening powder containing no water-insoluble substances and the developer dispersion containing surfactant(s). The agents according to the invention allow the progress of the lightening process to be observed without much ado and without the risk of impairing the lightening result.

Description

 Blondiermittel and Blondierverfahren

The invention relates to a bleaching agent for human hair.

Changing the shape and color of the hair is an important area of modern cosmetics. This allows the hair's appearance to be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual. In this case, permanent wave and other hair-changing methods can be used almost independently of the type of hair to be treated. In contrast, dyeing and in particular bleaching processes are limited to certain initial hair colors. So for lightening procedures, the so-called Blondierverfahren, essentially only dark blond or lighter hair. The basics of the bleaching processes are known to those skilled in the art and may be described in relevant monographs, e.g. by Kh. Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1989, Dr. med. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, or W. Limbach (ed.), Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York, be read.

Thus, solid or paste-like preparations with solid oxidizing agents are usually mixed with a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution (developer) immediately before use. This mixture is then applied to the hair and rinsed again after a certain exposure time.

Neither the pasty nor the powdered bleaching agents that are on the market today can be considered optimal. While the blonding effect on the hair can be considered satisfactory, there are still a number of disadvantages and problems both in the manufacture and in the handling of these agents.

Thus, the progress of the Blondierprozesses with the previous Blondiermitteln only visually perceive that the Blondiermittel is removed at short notice from a part of the keratin fibers and reapplied after the appraisal. This leads to different exposure times and thus to a different Blondierergebnis, which is perceived by consumers in part as undesirable. In addition, the Applizierende is bound because of frequent visual inspections to a customer.

The object of the present invention was to provide a bleaching agent and a bleaching process which are free from the disadvantages mentioned. The progress of the whitening process should be able to be achieved without labor-intensive steps and without the risk of damaging the Blondier result.

It has now been found that bleaching agents that are visually at least translucent are excellent for an improved and simplified bleaching process. The present invention is in a first embodiment, a means for whitening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, prior to application of two separately packaged preparations a) a bleach at 20 ⁰ C blonding and b) a liquid dispersion at 20 ⁰ C by mixing wherein the bonding powder contains no water-insoluble substances containing developer dispersion of surfactant (s).

The preparations mentioned, which are mixed together before use, on the one hand a fixed at 20 ° C bleaching (hereinafter referred to as "Blondiermittel" or "Blondierpulver") and on the other hand a liquid dispersion at 20 ⁰ C, hereinafter also referred to as " Developer "or" hydrogen peroxide solution "is called.

The bleaching compositions according to the invention preferably contain a solid peroxo compound. The selection of this peroxo compound is in principle not limited; customary peroxo compounds known to the person skilled in the art are, for example, ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate,

Sodium persulfate, percarbonates such as magnesium percarbonate, peroxides and perborates, urea peroxide and melamine peroxide. Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular combinations of at least two peroxydisulfates.

Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the solid peroxo compound is selected from ammonium and alkali metal persulfates and peroxydisulfates, with particularly preferred agents according to the invention containing at least 2 different peroxydisulfates.

A particularly preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that the bleaching powder contains as bleaching agent a solid bleaching agent selected from hydrogen peroxide addition compounds to solid carriers, ammonium and alkali metal persulfates and peroxydisulfates.

The peroxo compounds are preferably present in the bleaching compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 1 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight and in particular from 35 to 60% by weight, based in each case entire medium, included.

According to the Blondierpulver contains no water-insoluble substances, this must also be considered in the selection of the solid peroxo compound. "Water-insoluble" substances in the According to the present invention are substances which have a solubility in distilled water of less than 0.1 g / l at 20 ⁰ C and 1013.25 mbar.

According to the invention, the bleaching powder preferably contains only substances having a solubility in distilled water ( ^20.degree. C., 1013.25 mbar) of more than 1 g / l, particularly preferably more than 5 g / l, more preferably more than 7.5 g / l, even more preferably more than 10 g / l and in particular more than 15 g / l.

As a further component, the bleaching compositions according to the invention may contain an alkalizing agent which serves to adjust the alkaline pH of the application mixture. According to the invention, the usual alkalizing agents known to the person skilled in the art for bleaching agents, such as ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, silicates, in particular metasilicates, and also alkali metal phosphates, can be used. In a preferred embodiment, the bleaching powders according to the invention contain at least two different alkalizing agents. In this case, mixtures of, for example, a metasilicate and a hydroxycarbonate may be preferred.

The bleaching agents according to the invention preferably comprise alkalizing agents in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 15 to 25% by weight.

The bleaching powders according to the invention may contain further ingredients, for example complexing agents, phosphates, surfactants, emulsifiers, etc. These substances are described below since they are e.g. may also be part of the developer dispersion.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients that may be part of the bleaching powder are the bleach boosters. Bleach boosters are preferably used to increase the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide. Suitable bleach boosters are (BV-i) compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid, and / or

(BV-ii) carbonate salts and / or bicarbonate salts, and / or

(BV-iii) organic carbonates, and / or

(BV-iv) carboxylic acids, and / or (BV-v) peroxo compounds. As bleach amplifiers, it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry oxygen- and / or nitrogen-bonded acyl groups with the stated number of carbon atoms and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N- Acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy- 2,5-dihydrofuran.

The carbonate or bicarbonate salts are preferably selected from at least one compound of the group consisting of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and Erdalkalicarbonatsalzen and bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.

With the bleach boosters, too, care must be taken that the compounds used are water-soluble.

Preferably usable organic carbonates are selected from at least one compound of the group of carbonic acid monoesters and / or from at least one compound of the group of carbonic acid monoamides.

Preferably usable carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (BV-1),

R-O-C-OH Il 0 (BV-1) in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (BV-1), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a Ci_ ₆ alkyl group. Examples of CrC ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (BV-1) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, ferf Butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

Preferred carbonic acid monoamides are the compounds of the formula (BV-2),

R- N- C- OH H Il

⁰ (BV-2) in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (BV-2), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably R is a C-. _6- alkyl group. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Bleach enhancers of the formula (BV-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (BV-2) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, ferf-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

The acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide may also be in neutralized form, i. salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides can also be used according to the invention. Carbonic acid monoesters or the carbonic acid monoamides which are present in completely or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its sodium salt, are preferred according to the invention.

As the bleach-enhancing carboxylic acid, in the compositions of the present invention, at least one compound selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and orthophthalic acid may preferably be contained. The bleach boosters are contained in the bleaching compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

The keratin fiber brightening agents of the invention are obtained by mixing the bleaching powder with a developer dispersion. According to the invention, this developer dispersion contains at least one surfactant, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups as well as hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C Atoms (soaps), ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, acylglutamates of the formula (I),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX (I)

I

HN-COR ¹

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, such as, for example, C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut _fatty acid, lauric acid. acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, - esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (II),

X

HO - C - COOR ¹ (II)

Y - CH - COOR ²

wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH, under the condition that Y is H when X-CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently A hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomers Saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, esters of sulfosuccinic acid or Sulfosuccinates of the general formula (III),

H ₂ C - COOR ¹ (III)

I

_M (n ₊ / n) - _θ3 g _ _CH _COOR ²

in which M ^{(n + / n)} for n = 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base and for n = 2 an alkaline earth metal cation and R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group consisting of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,

Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _X -OSO ₃ H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = O or 1-12, mixed hydroxysulfonate surfactants according to DE-A-37 25 030, Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to C ₈ . _{22 are} fatty alcohols, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-glucosides sulfosuccinates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups. Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which contain in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one - wear or -SO ^'' 'group ₃ Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N - COO ^(). Alkyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms

Atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₃ o-fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty (partial) ester as Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), especially of saturated C ₈ - ₃ o-fatty acids, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,

Amine oxides,

Fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides and fatty amines and their ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Zuckerfettsäureester and methylglucoside fatty acid esters and their ethylene oxide or

Polyglycerol addition products,

Alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x wherein R is alkyl, Z is

Sugar and x represents the number of sugar units.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ to C ₁₆ -alkyl groups or essentially of C ₁₂ - To C ₁₆ alkyl groups or consists essentially of C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. B. Montanov ^® 68,

Sterols, e.g. Ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol and mycosterols,

Phospholipids, e.g. B. lecithins or phosphatidylcholines,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH) or Triglycerindiisostearat (Lameform ^® TGI), alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol). Preferred nonionic surface-active substances have been the alkylpolyglycosides, optionally in admixture with fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, alkylene oxide amide products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

In addition to the surfactant (s), the developer dispersion preferably contains polymer (s).

In a preferred embodiment, therefore, polymers are added to the developer dispersions, with both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably usable according to the invention. Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

R ¹

I - [CH ₂ -CJ _n X ^" (G 1-1)

I CO-O- (CH ₂ ) _m -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers preferably, for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

R ¹ is a methyl group

R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterions X ^' are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is the optionally crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium 37. Such products are (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen ^® CR (Ethnichem), for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH are commercially available. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI Designation: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) are commercially available.

Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain, as nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl acrylate and C 1 -C ₄ -alkyl methacrylates. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked one Acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are available under the names of Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat ^® L 200 and Polymer JR ^® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade name Cosmedia guar ^® and Jaguar ^® products, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, as well as by the names of Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27, having quaternary Nitrogen atoms in the polymer backbone.

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. In the context of the present invention, preferably usable zwitterionic polymers are composed essentially together A) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (ZI),

R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ( ⁺ ) R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A <^" ) ( ^{Z ~} ')

In the R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R, R and R independently represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is one

NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A "is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid

and

B) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (Z-II),

R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (Z-II)

in which R "and R 'are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Suitable starting monomers are, for. Dimethylaminoethylacrylamide, dimethylaminoethylmethacrylamide, dimethylaminopropylacrylamide,

Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and diethylaminoethylacrylamide when Z is an NH group or dimethylaminoethyl acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and diethylaminoethyl acrylate when Z is an oxygen atom.

The monomers containing a tertiary amino group are then quaternized in a known manner, methyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate or diethyl sulfate being particularly suitable as alkylating reagents. The quaternization reaction can be carried out in aqueous solution or in the solvent.

Advantageously, such monomers of formula (Z-I) will be the derivatives of acrylamide or methacrylamide. Preference is furthermore given to those monomers which contain halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ions as counterions. Likewise preferred are those

Monomers of the formula (Z-I) in which R, R ^ and R ^ are methyl groups.

The acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a very particularly preferred monomer of the formula (ZI). Suitable monomeric carboxylic acids of the formula (Z-II) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methylcrotonic acid. Preference is given to using acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid.

The zwitterionic polymers which can be used according to the invention are prepared from monomers of the formulas (Z-I) and (Z-II) by polymerization processes known per se. The polymerization can be carried out either in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution. The alcohols used are alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably isopropanol, which simultaneously serve as polymerization regulators. However, other components than regulators may also be added to the monomer solution, eg. For example, formic acid or mercaptans, such as thioethanol and thioglycolic acid. The initiation of the polymerization takes place with the aid of free-radical-forming substances. For this purpose, redox systems and / or thermally decomposing radical formers of the azo compound type, such. As azoisobutyronitrile, azo-bis (cyanopentanoic acid) or azo-bis (amidinopropane) dihydrochloride can be used. As redox systems are z. B. combinations of hydrogen peroxide, potassium or ammonium oxodisulfate and tertiary butyl hydroperoxide with sodium sulfite, sodium dithionite or hydroxylamine hydrochloride as a reduction component.

The polymerization can be carried out isothermally or under adiabatic conditions, depending on the concentration ratios by the heat of polymerization released, the temperature range for the course of the reaction between 20 and 200 ⁰ C may vary, and the reaction may optionally be carried out under autogenous pressure. Preferably, the reaction temperature is between 20 and 100 ⁰ C.

The pH during the copolymerization may vary within a wide range. Advantageously, polymerization is carried out at low pH values; however, pH values above the neutral point are also possible. After the polymerization is treated with an aqueous base, for. As sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or ammonia, to a pH between 5 and 10, preferably 6 to 8 set. Further details of the polymerization process can be found in the examples.

Be particularly effective, such polymers have been found in which the monomers of the formula (Z-I) were present in excess over the monomers of formula (Z-II). It is therefore preferred according to the invention to use those polymers which consist of monomers of the formula (ZI) and the monomers of the formula (Z-II) in a molar ratio of 60:40 to 95: 5, in particular from 75:25 to 95: 5 , consist.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (Ci ₃ -Ci ₄ -lsoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate 80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proven to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred Be networking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those with crosslinks, are also dye-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® QM ^® commercially available.

In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ^° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.

Glycosidically substituted silicones.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The polymers (G) are contained in the developer dispersions preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the developer dispersion contains polymeric gel formers, preferably acrylic acid polymers and / or copolymers. Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives which may be present both in the bleaching agent and in the developer dispersion are, for example

nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers and other solid-stable compounds, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers which are stable as solids are available as commercial products, anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, provided that they are stable or preferably commercially available as solids,

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. Bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol, structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils

Protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins, colorants for coloring the preparations,

Active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts,

Cholesterol,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins,

Fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters,

fatty,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. The compositions of the invention may also contain other ingredients. For example, the use of so-called oil components has proved to be advantageous.

With particular preference the agents according to the invention additionally contain an oil component (D). Oil components are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which may be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linoleic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ - C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₀ - C ₂₂ - and particularly preferably C ₂ - C ₂₂ - carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts obtained by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding fatty alcohols Alcohols resulting fatty acid esters are produced, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® such as Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^® such as Lanette ^® O or Lorol ^®, for example, Lorol ^® C8, Lorol C14 ^®, Lorol C18 ^{®, ®} Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^® such as Crodacol ^® CS, Novol ^®, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol ^® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or acquire Isocarb® ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

Especially preferred are so-called cosmetic oil bodies as ingredients of the compositions according to the invention.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) include, for example: vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) - cyclohexan (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred. Esteröle. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2- ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylylcarbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _m R ¹

I

CHO (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² (D4-I)

I

CH ₂ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _q R ³

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently of one another hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms are provided with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

In summary, agents according to the invention are particularly preferred which additionally contain an inert oil component, preferably from the group of esters of long-chain fatty acids, more preferably from the group of alkyloleates and / or alkyl stearates.

The agents according to the invention are used to brighten keratinic fibers, which is commonly referred to as "bleaching." In addition to bleaching, another color can also be applied to the hair, in that the compositions according to the invention also simultaneously dye for lightening in that the developer dispersion additionally contains dye (s). Such agents according to the invention are then agents for dyeing and / or whitening keratinic fibers.

The developer dispersion preferably contains one or more substantive dyes for shading.

These are dyes that raise directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.

The substantive dyes are each preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight, based on the total application preparation. The total amount of substantive dyes is preferably at most 20% by weight.

Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.

Anionic substantive dyes:

Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 15.985, Food Yellow No. 3, FD & C Yellow No. 6), 2,4-dinitro-1 naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl.10.316; Acid Yellow 1; Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1, 3-dion-2-yl) quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of mono- and disulfonic acid) (CI 47,005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No. 13; Acid Yellow 3, Yellow 10), 4 - ((4-amino-3-sulfophenyl) azo) benzenesulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 13,015, Acid Yellow 9), 5-hydroxy-1- (4-sulfophenyl) -4- [ (4-sulfophenyl) azo] pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid trisodium salt (Cl.

19,140; Food Yellow No. 4; Acid Yellow 23), 3 - [(4-

Phenylamino) -phenyl] -azobenzenesulfonic acid sodium salt (CI 13,065; Ki406; Acid Yellow 36), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -6-hydroxy-3H-xanthen-3-one (CI 45,350; Acid Yellow 73; D & C Yellow No 8), 5 - [(2,4-dinitrophenyl) amino] -2-phenylaminobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (Cl.10, 385; Acid Orange 3), 4 - [(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (Cl Acid Orange 6), 4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (Cl 15.510, Acid Orange 7), 4 - [(2,4-dihydroxy-3 - [( 2,4-dimethylphenyl) azo] -phenyl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 20,170, Acid Orange 24), 4-hydroxy-3 - [(2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (Cl. Acid Red 4), 4-hydroxy-3 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -1-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 14.720; Acid Red No.14), 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1-yl) azo] -2,4-naphthalenedisulfonic acid trisodium salt (Cl 16,255, Ponceau 4R, Acid Red 18), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1) yl) azo] -2,7-naphthalene-disulfonic acid trinatriu Msalz (Cl. 16.185; Acid Red 27), 8-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (phenylazo) -3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 17,200, Acid Red 33, Red 33), 5- (acetylamino) -4-hydroxy 3 - [(2-methylphenyl) azo] -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 18.065, Acid Red 35), 2- (3-hydroxy-2,4,5,7-tetraiododibenzopyran- 6-on-9-yl) benzoic acid disodium salt (Cl.45,430; Acid Red 51), N- [6- (diethylamino) -9- (2,4-disulfophenyl) -3H-xanthen-3-ylidene] - N-ethyleneamine ammonium hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 45, 100, Acid Red 52), 8 - [(4- (phenylazo) phenyl) azo] -7-naphthol-1,3-disulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 27,290; Acid Red 73), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-tetrabromo-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '- [9H] xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (Cl Acid Red 87), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran].

1 (3H), 9 '[9H] xanthene] -3-one disodium salt (CI 45.410; Acid Red 92), 3', 6'-dihydroxy-4 ', 5'-diiodospiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H) , 9 '(9H) -xanthene] -3-one-disodium salt (Cl. 45425; Acid Red 95), 2-hydroxy-3 - ((2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo) -5-nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt ( Cl., 15.685; Acid Red 184), 3-hydroxy-4- (3-methyl-5-oxo-1-phenyl-4,5-dihydro-1H-pyrazol-4-ylazo) -naphthalene-1-sulfonic acid sodium salt, chromium complex (Acid Red 195), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfonophenyl) -azo-naphthalenecarboxylic acid calcium salt (Cl 15.850: 1; Pigment Red 57: 1), 3- [ (2,4-Dimethyl-5-sulfophenyl) azo] -4-hydroxy-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl 14.700, Food Red No. 1, Ponceau SX, FD & C Red No. 4), 1, 4- Bis [(2-sulfo-4-methylphenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone disodium salt (Cl. 61, 570; Acid Green 25), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - (3,7-disulfo- 2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) carbenium inner salt, sodium salt (CI 44,090, Food Green No. 4, Acid Green 50), bis [4- (diethylamino) -phenyl] (2,4-disulfophenyl) carbenic m-inner salt, sodium salt (2: 1) (Cl. 42.045; Food Blue No. 3; Acid Blue 1), bis [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] (5-hydroxy-2,4-disulfophenyl) carbenium inner salt, calcium salt (2: 1) (CI 42,051, Acid Blue 3), N- [ 4 - [(2,4-Disulfophenyl) [4- [ethyl (phenylmethyl) amino) phenyl] methylene] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1-ylidene] -N-ethylbenzene methanaminium hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 42,080 Acid Blue 7), (2-sulfophenyl) di [4- (ethyl ((4-sulfophenyl) methyl) amino) phenyl] -carbenium disodium salt Betaine (CI 42,090, Acid Blue 9, FD & C Blue No. 1), 1-amino-4- (phenylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulfonic acid (CI 62,055, Acid Blue 25), i-amino ^ ^ cyclohexylamino ^ θ.iO-anthraquinone ^ -sulfonic acid sodium salt (CI 62045; Acid Blue 62), 2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-5-sulfo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) -2 , 3-dihydro-3-oxo-1H-indole-5-sulfonic acid disodium salt (Cl. 73.015; Acid Blue 74), 9- (2-carboxyphenyl) -3 - [(2-methylphenyl) amino] -6- [(2-methyl-4-sulfophenyl) amino] xanthylium inner salt, sodium salt (Cl.45, 190; Acid Violet 9), 1-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10 anthraquinone sodium salt (Cl.60,730, D & C Violet No. 2, Acid Violet 43), bis [3-nitro-4 - [(4-phenylamino) -3-sulfophenylamino] -phenyl] sulfone (Cl.10,410 Acid Brown 13), 5-amino-4-hydroxy-6 - [(4-nitrophenyl) -azo] -3- (phenylazo) -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 20,470, Acid Black 1). , 3-Hydroxy-4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -7-nitro-1-naphthalene-sulfonic acid chromium complex (3: 2) (Cl 15.711; Acid Black 52), 4- (Ace tylamino) -5-hydroxy-6 - [(7-sulfo-4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) azo] naphth-1-yl) azo] -1, 7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid, tetrasodium salt (Cl. 28.440, Food Black no. 1), 3 ', 3 ", 5', 5" -tetrabromophenolsulfonphthalein (bromophenol blue).

Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.

Cationic direct dyes:

Particularly suitable cationic direct dyes are 9- (dimethylamino) benzo [a] phenoxazine-7-ium chloride (Cl 51, 175, Basic Blue 6), di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino ) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (Cl 42,595, Basic Blue 7), di- (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) - (4- (methylphenylamino) naphthalen-1-yl) carbenium chloride (CI 42,563; Basic Blue 8), 3,7-di (dimethylamino) -phenothiazine-5-ium chloride (CI 52.015 Basic Blue 9), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride ( Cl.44,045; Basic Blue 26), 2 - [(4- (ethyl (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) phenyl) azo] -6-methoxy-3-methylbenzothiazolium methylsulfate (Cl.11, 154, Basic Blue 41 ), 8-amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3

(trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) -naphthalenone chloride (Cl 56.059, Basic Blue No. 99), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - [4- (methylamino) phenyl] carbenium chloride ( Cl. 42,535; Basic Violet 1), tri (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (Cl 42,520, Basic Violet 2), tri [4- (dimethylamino) -phenyl] carbenium chloride (Cl 42,555; Basic Violet 3), 2- [3,6- (diethylamino) dibenzopyranium-9-yl] benzoic acid chloride (Cl.45, 170; Basic Violet 10), di (4-aminophenyl) (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride ( Cl., 42, 510 Basic Violet 14), 1, 3-bis [(2,4-diamino-5-methylphenyl) azo] -3-methylbenzene (CI 21, 010, Basic Brown 4), 1 - [(4-aminophenyl ) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (Cl 12,250, Basic Brown 16), 1 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride, 1 - [(4-Amino-3-nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (CI 12,251, Basic Brown 17), 3 - [(4-amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethylbenzylaminium chloride (Cl 12.605, Basic Orange 69), 3.7 Diamino-2,8-dimethyl-5-phenylphenazinium chloride (Cl. 50.240; Basic Red 2), 1, 4-Dimethyl-5 - [(4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) azo] -1,2,4-triazolium chloride (Cl.1 1 055; Basic Red 22), 2-hydroxy-1 - [( 2-methoxyphenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -naphthalene chloride (CI 12.245, Basic Red 76), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] iminomethane hydrochloride (CI 41, 000, Basic Yellow 2), 2- [2 - ((2,4-Dimethoxyphenyl) amino) ethenyl] -1,3,3-trimethyl-3H-indol-1-ium chloride (Cl 48,055, Basic Yellow 11), 3-methyl-1 -phenyl-4 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) azo] pyrazol-5-one chloride (Cl 12.719; Basic Yellow 57), bis [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] phenylcarbenium hydrogensulfate (1: 1 Basic Green 1), di (4- (dimethylamino) phenyl) -phenylmethanol (CI 42,000, Basic Green 4), 1- (2-morpholiniumpropylamino) -4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methylsulfate, 1 - [(3- (dimethylpropylaminium) -propyl) amino] -4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone chloride and substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes are included

(a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,

(b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as

(C) substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as mentioned for example in EP-A2-998 908, to which reference is explicitly made at this point in claims 6 to 1 1 are called.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c) are in particular the following compounds:

CH ₃ SO ₄ ^"

Cl ^"

The compounds of the formulas (DZ1), (DZ3) and (DZ5), which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c).

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

Nonionic substantive dyes:

Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.

Suitable blue nitro dyes are in particular:

1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] benzene (HC Blue 2), 1-Methylamino-4- [methyl- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 6), 1 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -4- [ethyl- (2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 9), 1 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -4- [methyl (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 10) , 4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 11), 4- [ethyl- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 12), 2 - ((4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino) -5-dimethylaminobenzoic acid (HC Blue 13), 1-amino-3 Methyl 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 1), 1- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 2 ), 1- (2-aminoethylamino) -4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene, 4- (di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino) -2-nitro-1-phenylaminobenzene.

Suitable red nitro dyes are in particular:

1-Amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol (picramic acid) and its salts, 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene ( Cl., 76,070), 4-amino-2-nitro-diphenylamine (HC Red 1), 1-amino-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red 13), 1-amino 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-1 - [(2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 3), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) methylamino] -1- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino ] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitro-1 - [(prop-2-en-1-yl) -amino] - benzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-nitrophenyl) amino] phenol (HC Orange 1), 1 - [(2-aminoethyl ) amino] -4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange 2), 4- (2,3-dihydroxypropoxy) -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange 3) , 1-Amino-5-chloro-4- [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 10), 5-chloro-1,4-di [2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] 2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 11), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] - benzoic acid, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol (HC Red BN), 2.5- Diamino-6-nitropyridine, 6-amino-3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrop yridine, 3-amino-6 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6- (ethylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6- (methylamino ) -2-nitropyridine, 3-amino-6- (methylamino) -2-nitropyridine, 6- (ethylamino) -3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitropyridine, 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro 6-nitroquinoxaline, 7-amino-3,4-dihydro-6-nitro-2H-1,4-benzoxazine (HC Red 14).

Suitable yellow nitro dyes are in particular:

1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI 76,020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] 3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol, 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene , 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1-amino-2-methyl-6-nitrobenzene, 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- ( Dihydroxypropoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 3 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Yellow 9), 1-chloro-2,4-bis [( 2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 10), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol (HC Yellow 11), 1 - [(2'-ureidoethyl) amino] -4- nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-chloro-4- [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene (HC Yello w 12), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 13), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzonitrile (HC Yellow 14), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzamide (HC Yellow 15) 3- [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methyl-1-nitrobenzene, 4-chloro-3- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-nitrobenzene.

Suitable quinone dyes are in particular:

1,4-Di [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone, 1,4-di [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61,554, Disperse Blue 23), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61, 505, Disperse Blue 3), 2 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -9,10- anthraquinone (HC Orange 5), 1-amino-4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 60,710, Disperse Red 15), 1-hydroxy-4- [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9 , 10-anthraquinone, 7-beta-D-glucopyranosyl-9,10-dihydro-1-methyl-9,10-dioxo-3,5,6,8-tetrahydroxy-2-anthracenecarboxylic acid (CI 75,470, Natural Red 4 ), 1- [(3-aminopropyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (HC Blue 8), 1 - [(3-aminopropyl) -amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (HC Red 8) 1,1,4-diamino-2-methoxy-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 62,015, Disperse Red 11, Solvent Violet No. 26), 1, 4-dihydroxy-5,8-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 62,500, Disperse Blue 7, Solvent Blue No. 69), 1,4-diamino- 9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61, 100, Disperse Violet 1), 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61, 105, Disperse Violet 4, Solvent Violet No. 12), 2-hydroxy-3-methoxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2,5-dihydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, N- {6 - [(3-chloro -4- (methylamino) phenyl) imino] -4-methyl-3-oxo-1,4-cyclohexadien-1-yl} urea (HC Red 9), 2 - {{4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino ] phenyl} amino} -5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1,4-dione (HC Green 1), 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI 75,500, Natural Brown 7), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (CI 75,480, Natural Orange 6), 1,2-dihydro-2- (1,3-dihydro-3-oxo-2H-indol-2-ylidene) - 3H-indol-3-one (CI 73,000), 4 - {{5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methyl-1H-pyrazol-4-yl} imino} -4,5-dihydro- 5 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) -imino] -1-methyl-1H-pyrazole sulfate (1: 1), hydrate (1: 1).

Suitable neutral azo dyes are in particular:

1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methyl-4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Cl. 11, 210, Disperse Red 17), 1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino ] -4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] -benzene (Disperse Black 9), 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methylbenzene (HC Yellow 7 2,6-diamino-3- [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] pyridine, 2 - {[4- (acetylamino) phenyl] azo} -4-methylphenol (CI 11855, Disperse Yellow 3), 4 - [(4-Nitrophenyl) azo] -aniline (CI 11, 005, Disperse Orange 3).

Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Red 11, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 well-known compounds, as well 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5- chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1 , 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

It is not necessary that the substantive dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, due to the production process for the individual dyes, minor amounts of other components may be included, as far as these do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

Furthermore, naturally occurring dyes can also be used as substantive dyes, such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile blood, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alcano root are included.

The compositions according to the invention are obtained immediately before application by mixing blonding powder with a hydrogen peroxide solution (developer dispersion). The concentration of this hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; As a rule, 6 to 12 percent solutions in water or hydrogen peroxide-containing emulsions are used.

The mixing ratio of bleaching agent to oxidizing agent preparation (developer) is preferably 2: 1 to 1: 8, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 5. The proportions of blonding agent and hydrogen peroxide solution are usually in the narrower range 1: 1 to 1: 3, with an excess of hydrogen peroxide solution is particularly selected when no too pronounced Blondierwirkung is desired.

The ready-to-use agent for bleaching or bleaching hair obtained after mixing with the oxidizing agent preparation preferably has a pH of about 7.5 to 11, especially 8 to 10.0.

By dispensing with water-insoluble substances in the bleaching powder and the use of surfactant (s) in the developer dispersion means for lightening keratinous fibers are obtained, which allow the review of Blondierergebnisses or progress without wiping. The agents of the invention are so translucent that the Blondierfortschritt can be observed well and "in passing".

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the ready-to-use agent is transparent or translucent.

It has been shown that ready-to-use agents, which have certain nephelometric turbidity units (NTUs), allow a particularly good observation of the advancement of the bleaching process. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the ready-to-use agent has a nephelometric haze value <300, preferably <100, particularly preferably <50 and in particular <20.

Another object of the present invention is a method for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which a transparent or translucent Blondiermittel is used.

With respect to preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention. In particular, inventive Preferred method in which the bleaching agent has a nephelometric turbidity value <300, preferably <100, particularly preferably <50 and in particular <20.

Another object of the present invention is the use of anodizing agent-free bleaching agents in the bleaching of keratin fibers, especially human hair.

Also with regard to preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Claims

claims:

1. Composition for whitening keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is obtained by mixing before use from two separately packaged preparations a) of a bleach at 20 ⁰ C and b) a developer dispersion liquid at 20 ⁰ C, characterized in that the Bonding powder contains no water-insoluble substances containing developer dispersion surfactant (s).

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the developer dispersion contains polymeric gel formers, preferably acrylic acid polymers and / or copolymers.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the ready-to-use agent is transparent or translucent.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the ready-for-use agent has a nephelometric turbidity value <300, preferably <100, more preferably <50 and in particular <20.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the bleaching as bleaching a solid bleaching agent selected from hydrogen peroxide addition compounds to solid supports, ammonium and alkali metal persulfates and peroxydisulfates contains.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the developer dispersion additionally contains dye (s).

7. A method for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that a transparent or translucent Blondiermittel is used.

8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that the bleaching agent has a nephelometric turbidity value <300, preferably <100, more preferably <50 and in particular <20.

9. The use of adjuster-free bleaching agents in the bleaching of keratin fibers, especially human hair.