WO2009027238A1 - Styling method - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for the permanent deformation of keratin fibres, according to which said fibres are treated with an aqueous preparation of a keratin reducing substance, are rinsed in a first rinse after an exposure time, are fixed with an aqueous solution of an oxidising agent and likewise rinsed after an exposure time and are optionally subsequently treated. The aqueous preparation of the oxidising agent contains at least one film-forming polymer. Said method combines the advantages of a permanent deformation of keratin fibres with the appearance of temporary hair styling. Even when used at home, said method permits long-lasting hair-styling that resists damage over time, in unfavourable weather conditions or during daily hair care routines, without appearing 'severe' or 'old-fashioned' like the classic permanent wave.

Description

 "Styling procedure"

The invention relates to a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in particular of human hair. In the first step, the hair is swollen, whereby the Disulfidbindungen the hair are opened. In step 2, the sulfur bridges are closed after conversion.

The classic technique for performing permanent hair shaping is that in a first stage, the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin are opened by means of an agent containing a reducing agent (deforming agent), then the hair is shaped to the desired shape and then the disulfide bonds are recombined using an oxidizing agent-containing agent (fixative). In particular, sulfites, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, 3-mercapto-propionic acid, mercaptocarboxylic acid esters and cysteine are used as reducing active ingredients. These agents are either acidic (sulfite, bisulfite and Mercaptocarbonsäureester) or alkaline (alkali metal and ammonium salts of mercaptocarboxylic acids) set. In the case of alkaline deformation agents, the required alkalinity is achieved primarily by the addition of ammonia, organic amines, ammonium or alkali metal carbonate and ammonium or alkali metal bicarbonate. In particular, hydrogen peroxide or bromate-containing liquids are used as fixing agents.

The permanent deformation of human hair is generally carried out by first dividing the washed and towel-dried hair into several batches and then wrapping these batches on winder.

After completion of the winding process, the winder are thoroughly moistened with the required amount of Dauerverformungsmittels. The winder used for a permanent corrugation have a diameter of about 5 to 13 millimeters, while for a Haarentkräuselung winder with a diameter of about 13 millimeters are required.

The duration of action of the deforming agent on the hair is about 3 to 30 minutes, depending on the nature of the hair and the desired degree of deformation, for the permanent undulation. By supplying heat, for example using a heat radiator or a drying hood, this exposure time can be shortened.

After the required exposure time of the deforming agent, the hair is rinsed with water and treated with a fixing agent, for example an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide or potassium bromate. The exposure time of the fixing agent is usually about 1 to 30 minutes. Then the winder are removed, if necessary, the hair treated again with the fixative for a few minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water, put to a hairstyle and dried.

The classic perm treatment is often especially by younger customers than

The stale hair strands results in a very orderly

Hairstyle image that is rejected because of its symmetry as strict and not the fashionable ideas accordingly.

Novel hairstyle trends suggest a rather "messy" hairstyle design, which can be created by the user in home use, for example with the help of styling gels, mousses, hair sprays, etc. A disadvantage of this type of hairstyle design is the low long-term effect of hairstyle design Weather conditions or daily hair care, the hairstyle is destroyed and must be rebuilt again.

It was an object of the present invention to combine the advantages of permanent deformation of keratinous fibers with the appearance of the temporary hairstyle design. It should be a simple Haarverformungungsverfahren be provided, which - even in home use - a long-lasting hairstyle design that is not destroyed even with prolonged wearing time, adverse weather conditions or daily hair care, but not "strict" or "stale" acts as the classic perm.

It has now been found that a classic permanent wave process can be performed without a winder, if the developer solution during the fixation of the hairstyle gives the necessary support. The present invention is in a first embodiment, a method for permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in which the fiber is treated with an aqueous preparation of a keratin reducing substance, rinsed after an exposure time with a first rinse, then fixed with an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent and also after a period of action, rinsing and optionally after-treatment, wherein the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent contains at least one film-forming polymer.

In the context of this application, keratin-containing fibers or keratin fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.

The first step of the method according to the invention involves the application of at least one keratin-reducing substance to the keratin fibers. Whereas in the classical perming process the keratin fibers, which may have been pre-moistened beforehand, are shaped beforehand by means of winders or papilots, the use of deformation aids which remain in the hair is not desired according to the invention.

Accordingly, preference is given to processes according to the invention in which the keratin fibers are not wound up on winder or papilotene during the treatment with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance.

It is preferable to use no deformation aids later, which remain in the hair for the duration of a treatment step. Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the keratin fibers are not wound up on winder or papillts during the treatment with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent.

In particular, it is preferred to dispense with the use of deformation aids remaining in the hair throughout the process according to the invention. Particularly preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the shaping of the keratin fibers is effected solely by the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent which contains at least one film-forming polymer.

For the purposes of the present invention, deformation aids remaining in the hair are devices with the aid of which the keratin fibers are shaped and which remain longer in the hair. Such remaining in the hair deformation aids are in particular the classic curlers or papilots. In contrast, so-called "temporary deforming aids" are devices that are used to make a hairstyle and that do not remain in the hair but have only short-term contact with the hair.These "temporary shaping aids" can be, for example, the hands of the hairdresser (eg "Kneading" of the hair for "confused" look), preferably it is about brushes, combs, curling irons, etc. Characteristic of a "temporary deformation aid" is that it has only a short contact with the keratin fibers for shaping "Temporary shaping aid" and hair of less than 5 minutes, more preferably less than 4 minutes, more preferably less than 3 minutes, even more preferably less than 2 minutes and especially less than 1 minute, said times being the contact time mean the deformation aid with the keratin fibers that occur during a touch interval gene. A discontinuation of the deformation aid and re-attaching to a different location of the hair therefore requires a new contact time.

Another object of the present invention is thus a method for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, characterized by the direct and without further intermediate steps successive steps

(i) applying an aqueous preparation of a keratin reducing substance (corrugating solution) to the keratin fibers and allowing it to react for a period of one to 45 minutes, (ii) rinsing the corrugating solution, (iii) applying an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent containing at least one film-forming polymer , (iv) creation of a hairstyle with the aid of temporary deformation aids.

According to particularly preferred method of this embodiment are characterized in that are used as a temporary deformation aids exclusively brushes, round brushes and / or curling irons.

The keratin-reducing substances (reducing agents) which can be used in the first step of the process according to the invention are preferably selected from keratin-reducing compounds, in particular compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof, as well as sulfites, hydrogen sulfites and disulfites.

Compounds having at least one thiol group and derivatives thereof are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, phenylthioglycolic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and salts and esters thereof (such as isooctylthioglycolate and isopropylthioglycolate), cysteamine, Cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulphurous acid. Preferably suitable are the monoethanolammonium salts or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid and the respective free acids. These are preferably used in the context of the process according to the invention in the form of compositions which contain concentrations of from 0.5 to 2.0 mol / kg of these compounds and have a pH of from 5 to 12, in particular from 7 to 9.5. To adjust these pH values, preference is given to using alkalizing agents, such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates, or organic amines, such as monoethanolamine.

Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfite type are alkali disulfites, such as sodium disulfite (Na ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ) and potassium disulfite (K ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite ((NH ₄ ) ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ). Ammonium disulfite may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the hydrogen sulfite type are hydrogen sulfites as alkali, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium hydrogen sulfite may be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the sulfite type are sulfites as alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium sulfite is preferred. The use of sulfite and / or disulfite and / or Hydrogensulft carried out in the context of the inventive method preferably at pH 5 to 8, in particular from pH 6 to 7.5. Preferred C ₂ -C ₄ alkanolamines according to the invention are 2-aminoethanol (monoethanolamine) and N, N, N-tris (2-hydroxyethyl) amine (triethanolamine). Monoethanolamine is a particularly preferred C ₂ -C ₄ alkanolamine, which is preferably used in the context of the process according to the invention in the form of compositions which have a concentration of 0.2 to 6 wt .-% of this amine, based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred reducing agents according to the invention are thioglycolic acid and thiolactic acid and their salts.

In the context of the process of the invention, the reducing agent is preferably used in the form of a composition containing the reducing agent in an amount of 5 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

In addition, the solution of the reducing agent may contain other components that promote the action on the keratin. Such components include swelling agents such as lower alcohols and water-soluble glycols or polyols such as glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol or sorbitol and urea or urea derivatives such as allantoin and guanidine and imidazole and its derivatives. Preferred further components are 1, 2-propylene glycol, in particular in an amount of 5-20 wt .-%, and urea, in particular in an amount of 1-10 wt .-%. The quantities are in each case based on the entire solution or composition containing the keratin-reducing substance. In a preferred embodiment, the composition containing the keratin-reducing substance contains 5-20% by weight of 1,2-propylene glycol and / or 1-10% by weight of urea.

Furthermore, the composition containing the keratin-reducing substance may contain surface-active substances, in particular those from the group of anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and nonionic surfactants. These surfactants have the task of promoting the wetting of the keratin surface by the treatment solution, but above all to solubilize any existing fragrances or to emulsify stably. Applicable surfactants are described below.

In the temperature during contacting of the reducing agent to the hair is preferably in a range of about 10 to about 6O ⁰ C.

After at least partial splitting of the disulfide bridges and thus after a contact time, which depends on the concentration and the temperature and is usually one to 45 minutes, preferably 5 to 40 minutes and especially 10 to 30 minutes, the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance is rinsed out.

This rinsing is preferably carried out with warm water without further additives.

Subsequently, an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent is applied to oxidatively close the opened disulfide bridges again. This aqueous preparation according to the invention contains at least one film-forming polymer. Depending on the nature and amount of the oxidizing agent, the fixing solution can be rinsed out after the deformation, but it is also possible to leave this as a styling agent in the hair.

Corresponding processes according to the invention in which the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent containing at least one film-forming polymer is left in the hair after the hairstyle has been created and is not rinsed out until the next hair wash, are preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, the fixing solution contains at least one film-forming polymer. Although in principle cationic film-forming polymers can be used, for reasons of holding and the compatibility with the procedure according to the invention preferred method according to the invention, in which the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent as film-forming (s) polymer (s) exclusively nonionic (s) and / or anionic (s) and / or amphoteric (s) polymer (s) ,

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Particular preference is given to those polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely dissolved form in the fixing agent used in the process according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

Suitable further synthetic, film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl- and dialkylmethacrylamide, Alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C ₁ - to C ₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C ₁ - to C ₃ alkyl groups.

Examples include homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Further suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, for example, under the trade designations Akypomine ^® P 191 by the company CHEM-Y, Emmerich or Sepigel ^® 305 by the company Seppic be distributed; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, Ucon ^® Union Carbide sold under the trade names.

Suitable natural film-forming polymers include cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ^® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg. Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These so-called consolidating polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment compositions such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

Particularly preferred film-forming polymers which can be used in the fixing solutions for the process according to the invention are described below.

The fixing solutions may contain a film-forming copolymer A which contains at least two different monomers and can be obtained, for example, by copolymerization of these monomers. The first monomer in copolymer A (monomer A1) is preferably selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or acrylic acid esters and / or methacrylic acid esters. The second monomer in copolymer A (monomer A2) is preferably a methacrylic acid ester of the formula

H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) _m -CH ₃ ,

in the n for values of 14 to 24, preferably from 16 to 22, particularly preferably from 18 to 21 and especially for 20 and m for values from 12 to 22, preferably from 14 to 20, particularly preferably from 16 to 18 and in particular for 16 stand.

Preferred monomers A1 are acrylic acid methacrylic acid methyl acrylate methyl methacrylate acrylic acid ethyl ester methacrylic acid ethyl ester propyl acrylate propyl methacrylate acrylic isopropyl ester methacrylic acid isopropyl ester

Preferred monomers are A2 A2-a H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₆ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₄ -CH ₃ , A2-b H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₆ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-c H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₆ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-d H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₆ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ ,

A2-e H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₇ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₄ -CH ₃ , A2-f H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₇ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-g H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₇ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-f H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₇ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ ,

A2-h H ₂ C = C (CH ₃₎ -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₈ CH ₂ - (CH _{2) 14} -CH _3, A2-i H ₂ C = C (CH ₃₎ - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₈ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-j H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₈ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-kH ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₈ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ ,

A2-I H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₉ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₄ -CH ₃ , A2-m H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₉ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-n H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₉ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-oH ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₁₉ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ ,

A2-p H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₀ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₄ -CH ₃ , A2-q H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₀ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-r H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₀ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-s H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₀ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ ,

A2-t H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₁ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₄ -CH ₃ , A2-u H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₁ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-v H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₁ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-w H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₁ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ ,

A2-x H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₂ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₄ -CH ₃ , A2-y H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) - COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₂ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₆ -CH ₃ , A2-z H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₂ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₁₈ -CH ₃ , A2-ä H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) ₂₂ CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) ₂₀ -CH ₃ , Preferred monomers A2 are represented by the formulas A2-p, A2-q, A2-r. A2-s, A2-b, A2-f, A2-I, A2-m, A2-q, A2-u and A2-y described. Particularly preferred is the monomer A2-q.

Particularly preferred copolymers A are listed with monomer units contained in them at least in the following table:

Copolymers A are commercially available and are referred to in accordance with INCI nomenclature as ACRYLATES COPOLYMERE. A preferred copolymer A is, for example, the ACRYLATES / STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMERE designated according to INCI.

In summary, preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent is a film-forming polymer A

Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or acrylic acid esters and / or

Methacrylic acid esters with at least one methacrylic acid ester of the formula

H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) _m -CH ₃ ,

in the n for values of 14 to 24, preferably from 16 to 22, particularly preferably from 18 to 21 and especially for 20 and m for values from 12 to 22, preferably from 14 to 20, particularly preferably from 16 to 18 and in particular for 16 stands.

In addition to or in its place, the fixing solutions used in the process according to the invention may also contain other film-forming polymer (s). In particular, film-forming amphoteric polymers have proved suitable here.

A preferred film-forming amphoteric polymer B is preferably selected from the group of copolymers of monomers having carboxy and / or sulfone groups, in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and monomers having amino groups, in particular monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylates,

Dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkylacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides, monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, and the copolymers of N-octylacrylamide, methyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid.

Especially preferably, the fixing agent used in the inventive method as a film forming amphoteric polymer B contains an N-octylacrylamide / acrylic acid / tert-butylamino ethyl methacrylate copolymer, in particular preferably, the copolymer of the (by the company National Starch under the name Amphomer ^® INCI name: Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer).

The film-forming amphoteric polymer B is preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total fixing solution, contain. Of course, it is also possible for a plurality of film-forming amphoteric polymers B to be present, the total amount of film-forming amphoteric polymers B preferably being, however, not more than 20% by weight.

In summary, methods according to the invention are preferred in which the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent comprises a film-forming amphoteric polymer B selected from copolymers of monomers having carboxy and / or sulfone groups, in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and monomers having amino groups, in particular monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, Monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, monoalkylaminoalkylacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides, monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, and copolymers of N-octylacrylamide, methyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid.

Particularly preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent contains as film-forming and / or setting amphoteric polymer B an N-octylacrylamide / acrylic acid / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer. Also suitable are copolymers C which are composed of at least one monomer C1 selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, and at least one amphoteric monomer C2 selected from (meth) acryloylalkyl betaines of the formula C2-I

and (meth) acryloylalkylaminoxides of the formula C2-II

in formula C2-I and in formula C2-II, R ^{1 is} H or CH ₃ ,

R ² and R ^{3 are} each independently of one another optionally branched C- _MO -

Alkyl and n is an integer from 1 to 20, and

For the purposes of the present invention, copolymers C which are formed from the monomers mentioned are understood to mean only those copolymers which, in addition to polymer units resulting from incorporation of the stated monomers C1 and C2 into the copolymer, have a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably at most 1% by weight of polymer units due to incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers C are composed exclusively of polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said monomers C1 and C2 in the copolymer.

Preferred monomers C1 are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid Ci_ ₂ o-alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-d- _Σ o-alkyl esters.

Particular preference is given to monomer C1 selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate, isopropyl acrylate, isopropyl methacrylate, acryloyl acrylate, acryloyl methacrylate, cetyl acrylate, cetyl methacrylate, Stearyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate, most preferably from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, lauryl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate.

Preferred monomers C2 are (meth) acryloylalkylbetaines of the formula C2-I and (meth) acryloylalkylamine oxides of the formula C2-II, where R ² and R ^{3 are} each independently of one another methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl or tert. -Butyl, particularly preferably methyl.

Preferred monomers C2 are furthermore selected from (meth) acryloylalkylbetaines of the formula C2-I and (meth) acryloylalkylaminoxiden of the formula C2-II, where n is in each case an integer from 1 to 5, preferably an integer from 1 to 3 and especially preferably stands for 2.

Also preferred are monomers C2 selected from methacryloylalkylbetaines of the formula C2-I and methacryloylalkylamine oxides of the formula C2-II, where R ^{1 is in} each case CH ₃ .

The monomers C2 are particularly preferably selected from methacryloylalkylbetaines of the formula C2-I and methacryloylalkylaminoxides of the formula C2-II, where R ² and R ^{3 are} each independently methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl, especially preferably represents methyl, n is in each case an integer from 1 to 5, preferably an integer from 1 to 3 and particularly preferably 2, and R ^{1 is} each CH ₃ .

Very particular preference is given to monomer C2 selected from methacryloylalkylbetaines of the formula C2-I and methacryloylalkylaminoxides of the formula C2-II, where R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} each CH ₃ and n is 2.

In a first preferred embodiment, the fixing agent used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer C which is formed from at least one monomer C1 selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate,

Methacrylic acid ethyl ester, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate,

Isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl methacrylate, and as monomer C2 methacryloyl ethyl betaine.

Corresponding copolymers are known and, for example, under the names Diaformer Z-400, Diaformer Z-AT, Diaformer Z-301 N, Diaformer Z-SM and Diaformer ZW from Clariant and available under the names Yukaformer 202, Yukaformer 204, Yukaformer 206 and Yukaformer 301 from Mitsubishi, the use of Diaformer Z-301 N being particularly preferred.

In a second preferred embodiment, the fixing agent used in the process according to the invention contains at least one copolymer C which is formed from at least two monomers C1, wherein the first monomer is selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate, acrylic acid isopropyl ester and isopropyl methacrylate, and the second monomer is selected from stearyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate, and as monomer C2 methacryloyl ethyl amine oxide.

These copolymers are also known and obtainable, for example, under the name Diaformer Z-632 from Clariant, the use of diaformer Z-632 being particularly preferred.

In a third preferred embodiment, the fixing agent used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer C which is formed from at least three monomers C1, the first monomer being selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl acrylate, propyl methacrylate,

Isopropyl acrylate and isopropyl methacrylate, the second monomer is selected from acryloyl acrylate and methacrylic acid lauryl ester, and the third monomer is selected from stearyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate, and as monomer C2 methacryloyl ethyl amine oxide.

Corresponding copolymers are likewise known and are obtainable, for example, under the names Diaformer Z-611, Diaformer Z-612, Diaformer Z-613, Diaformer Z-631, Diaformer Z-633, Diaformer Z-651 and Diaformer Z-731 N from Clariant , wherein the use of Diaformer Z-651 is particularly preferred.

Of course, it is also possible that the fixing agents used in the process according to the invention comprise a mixture of at least two of the copolymers C, which are used according to the three preferred embodiments just described. The fixing agents used in the process according to the invention preferably contain copolymer C in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total mean.

Of course, the fixing agents used in the process according to the invention may also contain a plurality of copolymers C, but the total amount of copolymer C is preferably at most 20 wt .-%.

The copolymers C can be prepared by means of the known polymerization of the monomers mentioned and are usually commercially available.

In summary, preference is given to processes according to the invention in which the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent is a film-forming polymer C comprising at least one monomer C1 selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,

Acrylic acid alkyl esters and methacrylic acid alkyl esters, and at least one amphoteric monomer C2 selected from

(Meth) acryloylalkyl betaines of the formula C2-I

and (meth) acryloylalkylaminoxides of the formula C2-II

in formula C2-I and in formula C2-II, R ^{1 is} H or CH ₃ ,

R ² and R ^{3 are} each independently of one another optionally branched Ci_i ₀ - alkyl and n is an integer from 1 to 20 contains.

Regardless of which (s) film-forming polymer (s) is / are used, preference is given to processes according to the invention in which the aqueous preparation of the oxidant - based on their weight - 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 8 wt .-% film-forming ( s) polymer (s), based on the total aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent.

For the oxidation of at least partially dissolved disulfide bonds, the aqueous preparations contain oxidizing agents such as sodium bromate, potassium bromate and / or hydrogen peroxide, optionally with the stabilizers customary for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations. The pH of such aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations, which usually contain about 0.5 to 3.0% by weight of H ₂ O ₂ , is preferably from 2 to 6. Bromate-based fixatives are usually contained in the bromates Concentrations of 1 to 10 wt .-% and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7.

Often, the fixing agents used in the process according to the invention are formulated as solids. They then contain the oxidizing agent and the film-forming polymer in the form of a solid, e.g. Sodium. Only shortly before use, these agents are then mixed with water.

It is also possible and preferred to formulate the oxidizing agent as a 2-component system. The two components, one of which is preferably a weakly acidic hydrogen peroxide solution or an aqueous solution of another oxidizing agent and the other contains the other constituents (film-forming polymer (s)) and a base, are also added shortly before use a ready-to-use fixing solution with a pH of 7-9 mixed.

Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent - based on its weight - 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight and especially 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% Hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ) contains.

Further preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent - based on their weight - 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.75 to 10 Wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 8 wt .-% bromate (s), preferably sodium bromate and / or potassium bromate.

In addition to the active ingredients mentioned, both the well solution and the fixing solution may contain other ingredients. In many cases, the agents used in the process according to the invention (well solution and / or fixing solution) contain at least one surfactant, with both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers for the agents used in the method according to the invention (well solution and / or fixing solution) are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C Atoms (soaps),

Ethercarbonsäuren the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,

Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, acylglutamates of the formula (I),

XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH-COOX (I)

HN-COR ¹

in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates, which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as, for example, C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium N-cocoyl and Sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate, Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (II),

X

I HO - C - COOR ¹ (II)

IY - CH - COOR ²

wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) -alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) - hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, esters of sulfosuccinic or the sulfosuccinates of the general formula (IM),

H ₂ C - COOR ¹ (III)

I

_M (n ₊ / n) -Q ₃₈ _ _CH _ COOR ²

in which M ^{(n + / n)} for n = 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base and for n = 2 an alkaline earth metal cation and R ¹ and R ² independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z, derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C -ι ₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₆ -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals is selected, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and -dialkylester with 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,

Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _X -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixed hydroxysulfonate surfactants according to DE-A-37 25 030,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C ₈ - ₂₂ fatty alcohols represent, Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acyl glutamates, acyl isethionates, acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each having a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, which in particularly preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl , Myristoyl, palmitoyl and stearoyl radical, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or succinic acid or of the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco-Glucoside Tartrate and disodium coco-glucoside sulfosuccinates, alkyl poly glycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethoxy groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(" 'or -SO ₃ '^"'group in the molecule.) Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having 8 to 18 carbon atoms A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl sarcosine. Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and on

Alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,

Ci ₂ -C ₃ o fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

Polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular glycerol,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,

Polyol fatty (partial) ester as Hydagen ^® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® - types (Cognis), especially of saturated C ₈ - ₃ o-fatty acids, alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,

Amine oxides,

Fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides and fatty amines and their ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,

Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,

Zuckerfettsäureester and methylglucoside fatty acid esters and their ethylene oxide or

Polyglycerol addition products,

Alkylpolyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R consists essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₂ - and C ₄ -alkyl groups, essentially of C ₈ - to C ₆ -alkyl groups or essentially of C ₂ - To Ci ₆ alkyl groups or consists essentially of Ci ₆ to Ci ₈ alkyl groups.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred. The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 8.

Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. B. Montanov ^® 68,

Sterols, e.g. Ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol and mycosterols,

Phospholipids, e.g. B. lecithins or phosphatidylcholines,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH) or Triglycerindiisostearat (Lameform ^® TGI), alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes (INCI name: dimethicone copolyol).

Preferred nonionic surface-active substances have been the alkylpolyglycosides, optionally in admixture with fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, alkylene oxide amide products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.

Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents used in the process according to the invention (well solution and / or fixing solution) may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the dispersants and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.

Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C ₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,

C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, where C ¹ degrees of gyration of from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as sugar component are preferred,

Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68,

Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,

Sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols. Phospholipids. Of these, especially the glucose phospholipids, e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The agents used in the process according to the invention (corrugation solution and / or fixing solution) preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent. The agents used in the process according to the invention (corrugation solution and / or fixing solution) may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

The agents used in the method according to the invention (corrugation solution and / or fixing solution) may, in addition to the components mentioned, furthermore contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known for corresponding cosmetic agents.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya

Gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as

Amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as Bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates,

Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate

Defoamers like silicones,

Dyes for staining the agent,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,

Substances for adjusting the pH, such as conventional acids, in particular

Pleasure acids, and bases,

Cholesterol,

Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,

Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins,

fatty,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,

Hydrogencarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers

Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

Preservatives, Stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air, antioxidants.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

The physical fixing fixing solution used in the method according to the invention, which gives shape to the hairstyle by the film-forming polymer contained in it, has hitherto not been described in the prior art.

A further subject matter of the present invention is an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent containing-based on its weight-a) from 0.01 to 20% by weight of film-forming polymer (s), b) from 0.1 to 20% by weight % Hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ).

A further subject matter of the present invention is an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent containing-based on its weight-a) from 0.01 to 20% by weight of film-forming polymer (s), b) from 0.1 to 15% by weight % Bromate (s), preferably sodium bromate and / or potassium bromate.

Particularly preferred fixing solutions according to the invention contain surfactant (s). Preferred compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight and in particular from 5 to 10% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

As already mentioned, the fixing solution may contain further active ingredients and / or auxiliaries. Here mutatis mutandis applies to the process according to the invention.

Preferably, the fixing solution is provided in a form known to the consumer. Preferred compositions are a styling gel, a pump hair spray, an aerosol hair spray, a pump hair foam or an aerosol hair foam.

Hair foams are understood to mean compositions which form a foam when they are removed from a suitable container. It may be necessary to Add substances that promote the formation of foam or stabilize foam once formed. In particular, surfactants and / or emulsifiers are suitable for this, as have already been described above. Preferably, surfactants from the group of cationic surfactants are used.

Hair creams and gels generally contain structurants and / or thickening polymers which serve to give the products the desired consistency. Structurants and / or thickening polymers are typically used in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total product. Amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 3 wt .-% are preferred.

If it is the product of the invention is an aerosol product, this necessarily contains a propellant.

Suitable blowing agents according to the invention are, for example, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ , air and alkanes having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, isobutane, n-pentane and isopentane, and mixtures thereof. Preference is given to dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the alkanes mentioned, mixtures of said alkanes or mixtures of said alkanes with dimethyl ether are used as the sole blowing agent. However, the invention expressly also includes the concomitant use of propellants of the type of chlorofluorocarbons, but in particular of fluorocarbons.

With regard to the quantity ratio of blowing agent to the other constituents of the preparations, the sizes of the aerosol droplets or of the foam bubbles and the respective size distribution can be set for a given spraying device.

The amount of blowing agent used varies depending on the specific composition of the composition, the packaging used and the desired product type, such as hair spray or hair foam. When using conventional spray devices Aerosolschau mprodukte contain the propellant preferably in amounts of from 1 to 35 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 2 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 3 to 15 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Aerosol sprays generally contain larger amounts of propellant. Preferably, the blowing agent is used in this case in an amount of 30 to 98 wt .-%, based on the total product. Amounts of 40 to 95 wt .-%, in particular from 50 to 95 wt .-% are particularly preferred. The aerosol products can be prepared in the usual way. As a rule, all constituents of the respective agent, with the exception of the propellant, are introduced into a suitable pressure-resistant container. This is then closed with a valve. By conventional techniques, finally, the desired amount of blowing agent is introduced.

Claims

claims

1. A process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, in which the fiber is treated with an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance, rinsed after an exposure time with a first rinse, then fixed with an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent and also rinsed after a contact time and optionally after-treated, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent contains at least one film-forming polymer.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the keratin fibers are not wound on winder or papillts during the treatment with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance.

3. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the keratin fibers are not wound up on winder or papillts during the treatment with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the shaping of the keratin fibers solely by the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent, which contains at least one film-forming polymer takes place.

5. A method for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, characterized by the directly and without further intermediate steps successive steps

(i) applying an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance (corrugation solution) to the keratin fibers and allowing it to act over a period of one to 45 minutes,

(ii) rinsing the well solution,

(iii) applying an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent containing at least one film-forming polymer,

(iv) creation of a hairstyle with the help of temporary deformation aids.

6. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that are used as temporary deformation aids exclusively brushes, round brushes and / or curling irons.

7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent as a film-forming (s) polymer (s) exclusively nonionic (s) and / or anionic (s) and / or amphoteric (s) polymer ( e) contains.

8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent is a film-forming polymer A from

Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or acrylic acid esters and / or

Methacrylic acid esters with at least one methacrylic acid ester of the formula

H ₂ C = C (CH ₃ ) -COO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n CH ₂ - (CH ₂ ) _m -CH ₃ ,

in the n for values of 14 to 24, preferably from 16 to 22, particularly preferably from 18 to 21 and especially for 20 and m for values from 12 to 22, preferably from 14 to 20, particularly preferably from 16 to 18 and in particular for 16 stands.

9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent comprises a film-forming amphoteric polymer B, which is selected from copolymers with monomers having carboxy and / or sulfonic groups, in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid and monomers Amino groups, in particular monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, monoalkylaminoalkylacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides, monoalkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamides, and copolymers of N-octylacrylamide, methyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate and acrylic acid.

10. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent as film-forming and / or strengthening amphoteric polymer B contains an N-octylacrylamide / acrylic acid / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer.

11. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent is a film-forming polymer C from at least one monomer C1 selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylic acid alkyl esters and methacrylic acid alkyl esters, and at least one amphoteric monomer C2 selected from (meth) acryloylalkylbetaines of the formula C2-I

and (meth) acryloylalkylaminoxides of the formula C2-II

in formula C2-I and in formula C2-II, R ^{1 is} H or CH ₃ ,

R ² and R ^{3 are} each independently of one another optionally branched C ₁ . ₁₀ - alkyl and n is an integer from 1 to 20, contains.

12. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent - based on their weight - 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 , 0 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 1, 5 to 8 wt .-% film-forming (s) polymer (s), based on the total aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent.

13. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent - based on their weight - 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 10 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ).

14. Aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent, based on its weight, a) from 0.01 to 20% by weight of film-forming polymer (s), b) from 0.1 to 20% by weight of hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100 % H ₂ O ₂ ).

15. Aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent according to claim 16, characterized in that it - based on their weight - 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 15 wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 10% by weight of anionic (s) and / or nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).