WO2008040167A1 - Procédé de conception et de réalisation de patrons de coupe de vêtements en fonction de la structure plane d'un graphique - Google Patents

Procédé de conception et de réalisation de patrons de coupe de vêtements en fonction de la structure plane d'un graphique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008040167A1
WO2008040167A1 PCT/CN2007/002746 CN2007002746W WO2008040167A1 WO 2008040167 A1 WO2008040167 A1 WO 2008040167A1 CN 2007002746 W CN2007002746 W CN 2007002746W WO 2008040167 A1 WO2008040167 A1 WO 2008040167A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
garment
pattern
clothing
shape
point
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Application number
PCT/CN2007/002746
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English (en)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
Yanju Deng
Original Assignee
Yanju Deng
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Yanju Deng filed Critical Yanju Deng
Publication of WO2008040167A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008040167A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a garment pattern design drawing method according to a planar structure of a structural plan view; more specifically, the present invention relates to a garment pattern according to a plane structure of a garment structure plan view in which an XOY geometric plane or the like is disposed. Pattern, step and number design drawing method. Background ife ⁇
  • the existing armored structure design from the beginning of its establishment, has been formed by experience alone; only know the results, I do not know the reason: For example, I do not know the location of the same part of the point, the pattern of the pattern of clothing pattern retractable 1CM and The reason for gambling and retracting 0.5CM.
  • Another example is the application of planar geometry and mathematical formulas: focusing on the study and analysis of the human body's irregular solid surfaces, and the relationship with the body shape; while ignoring the research and analysis of the plane shape of the clothing pattern, and the relationship with the body type: as on the basis of the body type
  • the shape of the outer shape of the garment is expressed in the form of a shape, and the shape of the outer surface of the body is supplemented with a lack of beauty; the design of the pattern of the garment is performed according to the shape and shape of the garment; the decoration of the irregular surface of the body.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a plane structure according to a plan view of a garment structure in which an X0Y geometric plane or the like is set; according to the shape and shape of the garment, the shape expression, the specification difference and the number; respectively, the adjustment value, the proportion and the number are selected. Design drawing method for the pattern, the difference and the number of the clothing pattern.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a plan view of a garment structure in which a X0Y geometric plane or the like is provided on a plan view of a structure.
  • the object of the present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions; it comprises the following steps:
  • the pattern design of the armor pattern is decomposed into: part point; part; setting province and pleat; structure line design drawing Four steps;
  • the garment pattern design drawing method is calculated according to the planar structure of the structural plan (such as a frame drawing, etc.). .
  • the garment structure plan is the basis of the prototype drawing of the existing garment proportional drawing method and the prototype drawing method.
  • ⁇ Improvement If the XOY geometric plane is set and the concept of the garment structure is established, it is like the flat garment pattern of the three-dimensional clothing.
  • the shape of the pattern of the garment pattern, the number of the difference and the size of the pattern are all halved according to the bisector of its plane structure; the adjustment value, the proportion and the number of the formula are calculated; The shape of the pattern of the flat clothing, the number of the difference and the size of the number; the shape of the three-dimensional clothing, the number of the difference and the size of the size.
  • the plan view of the garment structure refers to the plane structure diagram of a series of styles of clothing: it is the plane unfolding and basic pattern of the series of three-dimensional garments of the human body appearance; it is the pattern shape, the number of the difference and the number of the pattern of the style of the clothing A plane variation model of the change in size.
  • the floor plan of the garment structure is classified according to the plane structure system of the clothing pattern: for example, the shirt body, the sleeves, the collar, the bag, the bottom of the body, the skirt, etc.
  • the style of the garment is different from that of the garment pattern structure.
  • the shape of the plan is different from its plane structure; for example, the shape and plane structure of the shirt and suit structure plan.
  • the position on the plan view of the plane armor structure and the position of the point on the suture line correspond to the position on the corresponding three-dimensional garment and the position of the point on the suture line; for example, the front leg portion 13 and the suture on the plan view of the male trousers structure
  • the upper front foot portion point 9 corresponds to the position of the front crotch portion on the corresponding male trousers and the front crotch portion of the suture.
  • the plan view of the garment structure is a X0Y plan view; the top is taken with the chest circumference ⁇ as a parameter, and the hip pack ⁇ of the present invention is taken as a parameter.
  • Location point The diagonal point on the plan of the garment structure, the position of the turning point: the point that determines the size of the garment; since the point is the point on both ends of the structure line, the point is also the point on the structural line; Site 1.
  • the position of the site point determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure; determines the shape and shape of the figure and the appearance of the garment.
  • Part The position of the face or line; on the plan view of the garment structure, it also indicates the position between the two points.
  • the length of the part determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure; determines the specifications of the garment; wherein: the upper part of the bust, such as the front chest circumference; the lower part of the hip, such as the front hip width 12: for the ⁇ The part of the (finger type).
  • the bisector regulates the shape of the pattern on the plan view of the garment structure, the number of shifts, and the change in the size of the number.
  • Part calculation formula The mathematical formula for calculating the length of the part with the parameters of the part as parameters.
  • Part design formula On the structural plan, the mathematical formula for calculating the length of the part with one parameter as the parameter. Due to the part design formula, for example: Front hip width design formula: 1/4 ⁇ i
  • the expression of the part design formula is - proportional X type + adjusted value.
  • the proportion is determined by the calculation of the gear position difference; the design formula is determined by the length and the length of the part; meanwhile, the ratio indicates the difference of the 1CM type of the part of the garment pattern.
  • the proportions in the design formula are different, and the difference in the pattern of the clothing pattern is different; the size of the clothing pattern is different depending on the type; the adjustment values are different, and the pattern of the clothing pattern is different.
  • the bottom loading is based on the waist W is more suitable; for example, designing a trousers model with the waist w as a parameter, in which the different body types Y> A can be selected according to the specifications of the clothing.
  • B, C type of the difference type card to select the type Y, A, B, C type of clothing pattern of the file.
  • the coma of the length of the pants of the present invention is 0 and 2, and the difference of the hips is not used as the example of 3. 2, 3. 6 to explain the reason for the gear mapping.
  • Part point decomposition formula A mathematical formula for calculating the position of a point on a structure and a point on a structure line on a structural plan.
  • the part point decomposition formula and its proportion are determined by the part design formula and its proportion and bisector calculation.
  • the ratio indicates the difference of the 1CM type profile of the part of the clothing pattern; the proportion of the part point decomposition formula is different, the pattern of the clothing pattern The difference is somewhat different; the size of the clothing pattern is different depending on the type; the adjustment value is different, and the style of the clothing pattern is different.
  • provinces and pleats set on the plan view of the garment structure as follows: province 41 and pleats 42 as shown in Fig. 2; for convenience of explanation, it is assumed that the structure plan is set in the province And examples of pleats.
  • province is an expression method of the garment according to the shape and shape of the garment; the province set according to the shape and shape of the garment, its saving, position, quantity, direction
  • the shape, and the position of the points on the provincial road are different in size or size.
  • the shape of the part or the whole of the garment is different.
  • the province belongs to a style of expression of the shape of the garment; the stitching forms a line; the shape of the garment that expresses the appearance of the figure represents the natural, easy-going, and beautiful curve.
  • Pleated pleating, folding and overlapping; different shapes and forms such as waves; assumed to be an expression of pleats: by pleating, folding and overlapping; position, number, direction, form of pleats, The relationship between the pleats and the ridges is formed.
  • the pleats are an expression of the garment according to the shape and shape of the garment; the pleats set according to the shape and shape of the garment, its pleats, position, The number, direction, and shape of the garment are different from the shape or shape of the garment.
  • Pleated A representation of the shape of a garment; the pleats, folds, and overlaps increase the space of the corresponding part to form a partial or overall shape of the garment's exterior; the garments that represent the appearance of the body
  • the shape and shape of the style is free, relaxed and romantic.
  • the structural line consists of an infinite number of points; the position of each point determines the shape of the plan of the garment structure; determines the shape of the garment. Since the structural line is a line that determines the shape of the surface pattern of the garment structure; therefore, in addition to the description, the structural line includes its own and the points of the ends (such as the front waist point 1), the set provincial point and the pleated point, and the province
  • the base line, as set, is the reference line on the structural plan.
  • the design drawing of the clothing pattern is the design shape of the pattern of the clothing pattern, the number of the difference and the design drawing of the size.
  • the pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing of the clothing pattern; respectively, refer to the pattern design pattern drawing of the single-piece type clothing, the pattern clothing pattern drawing of other specifications of the clothing, and the pattern clothing pattern drawing of other specifications type clothing.
  • the design drawing method of the clothing pattern is improved on the basis of the existing clothing drawing method; for example, the design drawing of the clothing pattern is performed on the structural plan of setting the X0Y geometric plane; the style shape modeling of the clothing, the number of the difference and the number The size of the design drawing; as in the clothing pattern plane change model, the pattern shape of the clothing pattern, the number of the difference and the size design drawing. For example, it chooses the adjustment value, the proportion and the number of the formula in the calculation formula; to select the style shape, the number of the difference and the size of the pattern of the clothing pattern; to design the pattern, the difference and the number of the pattern of the clothing pattern. .
  • the drawing method of the existing clothing pattern design is the drawing of the pattern without the clothing pattern; therefore, the existing clothing pattern
  • the grading method can only be the grading of a set of clothing.
  • the clothing stall is not a fixed group, there are more than one group: for example, the clothing type standard Y, A, B, C type body: region (country); such as the clothing stalls introduced by the book; the clothing stalls provided by the merchants.
  • the present invention only needs to select the same ratio as the formula in the decomposition formula according to the gear difference of the garment; to select the gear difference of the clothing pattern. Since the part point type card is classified according to the position difference of the clothing, the pattern drawing of the clothing pattern is performed on the model map - the same file as the clothing part is selected according to the gear difference of the clothing in the part point difference number card.
  • the difference type card for example, in the number difference type cards (1) and (2) of the front foot portion point 9 on the model diagram of Fig. 5, the difference number type card (2) is selected.
  • the gear difference is 0! If the length of the pants is .0, regardless of the type H (such as 103), the length of the pants is always the same 103.
  • the shape shape of the 0 model moderately select the appropriate amount of clothing to relax, to determine the type of clothing: the design of the clothing paper, first in the design of the single-piece clothing pattern design and sample modification Then carry out the mapping of the gears and numbers of other clothing patterns.
  • the invention expresses the shape and the amount of relaxation of the garment according to the shape of the garment. Change the relationship, from narrow to wide, moderately choose the appropriate amount of clothing relaxation; to determine the type of a single piece of clothing. For example, in the men's trousers between 4 - 24CM, choose a relaxation amount of 14CM, select a single male trousers type 104;
  • the type drawing of the clothing pattern - the existing clothing pattern design drawing method is not the pattern drawing of the clothing pattern, but the clothing pattern Grading; clothing pattern grading method is in the industrial production of clothing, in order to reduce the number of garments above two types of clothing pattern errors and errors; and the invention of a set of only a standard deviation and a set of numbers Type of clothing pattern grading method; the whole process is full of experience components.
  • the type of clothing is not fixed only one or a group: such as the type standard: the type of the body is different, its type (finger type, such as hip circumference) is different; in the same body type, the function of the clothing, the amount of relaxation Different, its type is different: the specification of the clothing: such as 2CM or 4CM, its choice of the type is different; the size of the area is different, its type is different.
  • the present invention only needs to select the same type as the decomposition formula according to the type of the garment; to select the type of the clothing pattern. Since the part point type card is drawn according to the type of the clothing, the type pattern drawing of the clothing pattern is performed on the model drawing - the same type scale is selected on the type card according to the type of the clothing; for example, if selected Type 104, 108.
  • the pattern design of the clothing pattern According to the style of the mother's clothing, the pattern design of the clothing pattern: According to the shape and shape of the clothing, the shape and shape of the clothing and the shape of the clothing are selected to be the same adjustment value; the design of the pattern of the clothing pattern is:
  • the style shape representation of a garment refers to the expression of the shape of the exterior of a garment worn on the body.
  • the method of drawing pattern design of garment pattern refers to the appearance of the appearance of the garment expressed by the designer according to the shape and shape of the garment as imagined; the process of drawing it into the pattern of pattern, the difference and the pattern of the garment; instead of the garment of the appearance of the garment design.
  • the pattern is designed to make the pattern design of the clothing pattern; it is based on the body type: according to the shape and shape of the shape of the moon, and the shape of the figure of the garment structure is changed.
  • Pattern design drawing For example: on the specification structure plan 615 of the model diagram of Fig. 7; according to the different choices of the position of the front knee point 7, the front side seam point 8, the front foot point 9, and the front side stitch point 10; The shape and shape of the ordinary, straight, and horn shapes of the trousers; the design of the ordinary, straight, and horn pattern of the men's trousers.
  • the pattern design drawing of the clothing paper pattern firstly forms the plan structure plan according to the specifications of the clothing; then, on the plan structure plan, the pattern design drawing of the clothing pattern is performed according to the shape and the shape of the clothing.
  • the pattern design drawing of the g-loading pattern according to the figure, the shape and shape of the garment, and the shape of the garment will be decomposed into: part point; part; setting province and pleat; structure drawing design Steps:
  • the design drawing of the shape of the different styles of the garment is carried out on the plan structure of the same plane structure.: Due to the different styles of the designed garments, the pattern of the garment is different. Different shapes; in The plane distribution on the structure plan is different; its distribution surface can be part of it; it can be all of it.
  • the distribution surface may be part of the frame diagram; or it may be All.
  • the pattern design of the garment pattern is made; in the position of the point on the structure line, moderately retract or select the appropriate size: to design the pattern of the garment pattern Cartography; therefore, the designer only needs to: According to the style of the clothing, the shape of the design is set and the pleats; the position of the point is limited by the clothing specifications, the points on the structure line are not limited; how much is placed at the position of the point
  • the change in the shape and shape of the garment can be in accordance with one's own imagination; the pattern design of the garment pattern is performed in the style of the desired garment; for example, at the position of the front waist of the front waist of FIG. Retract and choose.
  • the appearance and shape of the garment is imagined by human beings; with the invention, the designer can fully inspire and innovate according to his own imagination and concept: to determine the shape of the single garment through the amount of relaxation of the garment Set the province and pleats; the point size, the size of the points on the structure line are retracted or selected, and the causal relationship with the style shape of the garment to determine the shape of the clothing pattern; , the shape of the shape of the appropriate clothing.
  • the graphic design drawing method of the garment is conceived on the structural plan, and the pattern is designed according to the shape and shape of the garment, and the pattern design is drawn by the pattern of the garment.
  • the three-dimensional design drawing method of the garment is directly on the body model, and the pattern design drawing of the garment pattern is performed according to the shape and shape of the garment: the cloth sheet is the same as the specification structure plan on the body model, and the clothing pattern is performed.
  • the shape of the shape represents the design of the drawing. For example: On the body model: the upper bust or the bottom hip is the size of the garment; the appropriate amount of relaxation is selected to determine the size of the garment; the provincial and pleated settings are the shape of the garment.
  • Figure 5 is a male trousers model diagram according to a step (1) to set the XOY geometric plane and other structural plans, in the form of data and charts, pre-printed (product) or drawn; as in Figure 5 male trousers
  • step (2) on the model diagram: • M: Ao 1 - Back to ⁇ ( ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ (product) or drawing a model diagram; then drawing the pattern, the gear difference and the number design drawing on the model diagram.
  • the "clothing plane drawing method and clothing model diagram” invented by the inventor Deng Yanzhao et al. Introduction: Its application number: 200510034077.1; Publication number: C 1765248A.
  • Step (3) on the model map: According to the style of the clothing pattern, the drawing is based on the shape of the garment to make the pattern design of the garment pattern; according to the reproduction of the garment, the pattern of the garment pattern is made according to the shape of the copied garment.
  • the invention is further improved and improved on the basis of the "clothing plane drawing method and the clothing model diagram" invented by the inventor; after having the concept of the invention; the clothing model diagram is like the pattern of the clothing pattern of the series of style garments. , Variance and number change models and design drawing tools; 3 ⁇ 43 ⁇ 4 loading pattern design drawing on the model drawing is the same as selecting the pattern of the clothing pattern, the gear difference and the number on the clothing pattern model.
  • the pattern of the clothing pattern, at the front waist point point 1 select the position of the point 52 (. Figure 4); the pattern of the clothing pattern, in the front foot part point 9 differential number card U) and (2) Select the type difference type card (2) (Fig. 5) ; the type of the clothing pattern, select the number scale 108 on the 1st type card on the waist point (Fig. 5):
  • the style of the clothing Although the shape and shape of the clothing are ever-changing in different generations, regions, and fashions, in fact, in the plan view of the series of styles of the same plane structure, only the positions of the pattern points and the points on the structure line are different.
  • the type of clothing Although, with the function of the clothing, such as the ground 12 warm and cold; the shape of the clothing is shaped like tight and loose; the amount of relaxation of the clothing is different; the size of the clothing is different (the size of the single piece of clothing); On the number card of each part of the model diagram, only the position of the type scale is different (the type of the single piece of clothing).
  • the standard of the type the size of the size of the body; the size of the clothing is different; in fact, on the number card of each part of the model map, only the position of the selected type scale is different.
  • the invention has the design pattern of the pattern, the gear difference and the number pattern of the clothing pattern, the reason, the level and the cause and effect are distinct; the quantity (the number> is based on the number; the advantage of the one-way Belden; and the drawing design of the armor and the clothing pattern at the same time Standardization, standardization, formatting, automation, and CAD provide methods and basis.
  • Figure 1 shows a schematic representation of the XOY plane, bisectors, structural lines and sutures on a plan view of the garment structure.
  • Figure 2 shows a schematic view of the location points, locations, provinces and pleats on the plan view of the garment structure.
  • Fig. 3 is a schematic plan view showing a plan view of a series of style garment structures in which an XOY plane or the like is set.
  • Figure 4 shows the figure of the male and female trousers according to the shape and shape of the male trousers on the plan view 51 of the specification structure.
  • the pattern of the male trousers designed and drawn by the pattern of the trousers of the male trousers (contour 54).
  • Fig. 5 is a plan view showing a plan view of a numbered structure formed on the model map according to the step 1 and the number 104 of Table 1.
  • Fig. 6 is a view showing a plan view of the specification structure in accordance with the specifications of Table 2 on the plan view 61 of the type structure of Fig. 5.
  • Fig. 7 is a view showing a plan view 6 of the specification structure of Fig. 6 formed on the specifications of Fig. 6.
  • FIG. 5, 6 > 7 is a schematic diagram of the model diagram, which is a schematic diagram of the model diagram in the "clothing plane drawing method and its clothing model diagram” invented by the inventor; wherein the point pattern and the number line of each part on the model diagram ( Card), drawn in a ratio of 1:1)
  • the invention takes the male trousers front piece (excluding the waist position 4CM) as an example to illustrate the garment pattern design drawing method.
  • the ratio of the male trousers cutting diagram of FIG. 4 and the model diagram of FIGS. 5, 6, and 7 are both 1: 1; the model drawings of FIGS. 5, 6, and 7 are pre-printed (product ) or drawn clothing pattern design drawing tools. .
  • Figure 3 a plan view of the plan view of the series of male trousers. It consists of Figure 1 and Figure 2 on the structural plan: 1) X0Y geometric plane; 2) part point; 3) part; 4) Equidistant line; 5) Part calculation formula; 6) Part design formula; 7) Part point decomposition formula. 8) province and pleats; 9) Structure lines and sutures.
  • 61 of Figures 5 and 6 are assumed to be Table 1 Specifications: Plan view of the type 104 of the gear difference 1; 61; Figure 51 of the structure of Figure 4 and Figure 7
  • the structural plan view 615 is also assumed to be a plan view 51 or 615 of the specification structure formed on the No. 10 structure plan view 61 in accordance with the specification of Table 2; therefore, for the sake of clarity, the male trousers of the series of Figures 5, 6, and 7 are used.
  • 61 and 615 of the model diagram illustrate, by way of example, a method of forming a plan view of a specification structure in accordance with the planar structure of the structural plan view of the garment of Fig. 3 and the specifications of the garment of Table 2.
  • the bisector of Figure 1 is preceded by a number of 2; the structural line is preceded by a number of 3;
  • the number of the part the number of the part calculation formula, the design formula, and the part point decomposition formula; the number of the part point and the part number in the "clothing plane drawing method and its clothing model drawing" invented by the inventor;
  • the province and the pleats are preceded by a number of 4;
  • Figure 4 shows the steps in the garment pattern profile 54 on the male trousers specification structure plan 51, plus 5 before the number ;
  • Figure 5, 6, 7 clothing model diagram Above, the relationship between the pattern shape of the plan view of the garment structure and the point decomposition formula of the part is explained: and the step in forming the plan view 615 of the specification structure in the plan view 61 is added, and 6 is added before the number.
  • FIG 3 The specifications and specifications of the front plan structure of the men's and women's trousers series are shown in Table 1 - Table 1: Unit: CM, Hip: H; Waist: W (length of pants including waist 4CM)
  • the waist area is not marked with the size.
  • the waist size is selected according to the specifications of the men's trousers.
  • the number of the present invention refers to the number of circumferences that determine the size of the garment, as described above as the bust B and the bottom as the hips H.
  • the type of clothing (the number and type of clothing) depends on the specifications of the clothing being designed.
  • the method for drawing a garment pattern design according to a planar structure of a structural plane comprises the following steps:
  • a plan view of the garment structure such as the XOY geometric plane is set on the plan view of the garment structure:
  • the male trousers are cut out.
  • the horizontal traverse line 18 is set to the X axis
  • the front midline 19 is the Y axis
  • the intersection point is the X0Y geometric plane of O.
  • the theoretical basis of the present invention is to apply the principle of linear equations in the patterning of the garment pattern; to calculate and analyze the position of the point on the structure point and the line on the xoy geometric plane of the plan of the garment structure; Design drawings for styles, gears and numbers.
  • the principle of the parametric equation of the line For example: Chen Tongxin, Liu Jialu, etc.; Mathematical Dictionary; Beijing: Surveying and Mapping Press; 1982 (1037) ⁇ . Adjustment value: This line is adjusted (P!: X). Yi );
  • Type The number point is on this line (this feature is calculated and plotted on the plan according to the part point decomposition formula; please refer to the "Fabric Plane Drawing Method and Its Garment Model Picture", such as the number on the type card Type scale 108 position; 2] page).
  • the type card (this straight line) can move with the position of the front waist point 1 and 52 (Fig. 4);
  • the type card (this line) is classified into a gear number type card according to the ratio/proportion; for example, there are two groups of the number difference type card of the front foot part point 9 (1> and (2); In the difference type card, select the gear number card (1) or (2) according to the gear difference of the clothing:
  • the type is on the type card (this line):
  • the type 104 is on the type card with a scale of 1.04 (Fig. 5).
  • the load of 4 garments indicates the point 1 of the moment of the waist, and after narrowing 1CM, the position 52 of the structure plan 51 :
  • [1/10H ( 104) — 0.3] is the position of point 1 of the front waist, and -1 is the size of 1CM.
  • c. The location of the site is limited by the size of the garment; if the province and pleats are placed on the floor plan of the garment structure, the location of the site is retracted or the same amount of pleats and pleats are selected.
  • the male trousers are cut out according to the shape of the male trousers, and the front waist width portion 11 is shown on the structural plan 51, and the province is set to 3 CM and the pleat 42 is 5 CM:
  • Front waist width 11 gauge length 1/4W (72) - 1-17CM:
  • the position of the site as shown in Fig. 2 the front waist point point 1; the front side waist point point 2; the front side hip site 3; the front side seam hip point 4; the front side of the filed point 5; the front side seam point point 6; the front knee joint point 7; the front side seam knee point point 8; the front foot foot point point 9; the front side seam foot point point 10.
  • the length of the part of the garment pattern is limited by the size of the garment; the length of the part is retracted or the same size is selected: Take the illustration of the cut of the male trousers in Figure 4 as an example: Length of the front waist width U - 1/4W (72) — 1-17CM Set the amount of 41 (for hypothetical example) to 3CM and the pleats 42 (for hypothetical example) to 5CM after the width of the front waist width U - front waist width 11 length - [1/4W (72 )1]+saving 3CM+ pleats 5CM-25CM
  • the part of the bust and hips determines the shape (type) of the garment - the hips are as follows: if the front hip width of the current piece is 25CM - 1/4H-1: No. H (type) is 04CM .
  • Each part has one or more sets of part design formulas: Proportion X type + adjustment value.
  • Pants long part 16 (1) Design formula: Specifications difference 1, pants length difference 1/2H+46
  • Pants long part 16 design formula, ⁇ Specifications difference 2, pants length difference 0: 100 (pants length fixed 100)
  • the position of other faces or lines is as follows: breast chest position, trousers part, etc.; front waist wide part 11, straight deep part 14 etc.; part of Fig. 2: front waist wide part 11; front hip wide part 12; front foot width Part 13; straight depth 14; front wide mouth 15; pants length 15.
  • the pattern shape, the difference of the gear size and the change of the size of the pattern of the garment pattern are all changed according to the bisector; and together with the design formula, the part decomposition formula of the point is calculated and determined:
  • One is the position on the X0Y plane
  • ( 1/8H+7.5) is the design formula for the front foot width B
  • 2 is the second division.
  • the other bisectors the front transverse width bisector 21, the front knee width bisector 22, the front hem width bisector 23, the front straight depth 24, the front middle cymbal, etc. Breakline 25.
  • Figure 4 The front foot width of the garment cutting diagram 13 The calculation formula of the part - the width of the pants is 2;
  • the wide part 13 of the trousers is an example:
  • the front foot wide part 13 is designed by the formula -1/8H+7.5
  • front hip wide part 12 /4H-I
  • front foot wide part 13-1/8H+7.5 straight deep part 14-1/4H
  • the adjustment value is calculated and determined.
  • the position of the point on the clothing paper pattern point and the line on the structure line is 62 on the XOY geometric plane of the structural plan view (the position of the number scale 104); the horizontal size data is 10.1, and the longitudinal size data is 26 :
  • the 1CM type longitudinal gear difference 64 is 1/4CM-[1/4H ( 105) +0]-[1/4 ⁇ ( 104) +0]
  • the anterior iliac site 5: X —(3H/20—1.3) and 0 ;
  • the anterior suture site 6: X 3H/20- 1. 3 and Y-0.
  • the trousers are 2cm in length:
  • the setting and the pleats are set.
  • the position of the corresponding part and the length of the corresponding part are limited by the specifications of the garment; the points on the structural line are not limited; The type has nothing to do.
  • Corresponding position of the site such as the position of the front waist point 52 to the front seam point 2 is relaxed 8CM;
  • the front knee joint point 7 on the front squat structure line 34 has two sets of points practice formula: the bisector of the point and the front hip width portion 12, the front flap width 15, the front foot width portion 13.
  • the design formula of the long part 16 of the trousers is calculated.
  • the grading pattern and the number card of the point can be formed by the adjustment value, the proportion and the number in the decomposition formula of the point.
  • the garment is composed of a piece of clothing; the shape of the piece is changed based on the shape of the body, based on the shape of the garment; determining the shape of the figure of the piece is the structural line on the periphery of the piece (including the point of the piece, the setting and the pleats) ⁇ );
  • the shape of the piece of clothing is different, and the shape of the composition of the garment is different.
  • one of the functions of the instability, decoration, and pattern design of the clothing pattern is the appearance of the appearance of the garment, which complements the shape of the outer surface of the body;
  • the knot line is composed of an infinite number of points; it includes its own and the point points at both ends, the set provincial point and the pleat point, and the provincial road; the line for determining the shape of the plan view of the garment structure; therefore, in the clothing pattern
  • the points on the structure line are selective The points are selected to perform the pattern shape design of the garment pattern: other points on the structure line, by the method of approximate joint, to form the outline of the garment pattern.
  • Structure line For example, the position of the point 53 on the front structure line 34 and the position of the point 55 on the contour line 54 are taken as an example: a point on the structure line 34, the point 53 is selected, and the size is narrowed after 1 CM. , a point 55 on the contour line 54 is formed.
  • a male trousers pattern outline 54 which is approximately joined at 55 points to form an outline 54.
  • the structural line includes: a front side seam structure line 31, a front waist width structure line 32, a front crotch structure line 33, a front sill line 34, a point point 35, and a provincial road 36.
  • Sutures such as the front side seam structure line (suture) 31, the front waist width structure line (suture line) 32, the front line structure line (suture line) 34, the provincial road (sewed Line) 36;
  • the length of the stitching is shorter or longer than the can; for example: the front shoulder stitch and the back shoulder of the top.
  • the length of the suture is shorter or longer than the can; for example: the front shoulder stitch and the back shoulder of the top.
  • the position difference of the calculation and the pattern of the clothing pattern is determined by the position difference of the clothing (the position difference of the clothing part/the image quantity of the clothing pattern); the position difference of the clothing pattern is calculated and determined in the part design formula.
  • Proportional and part design formula Calculate and determine the proportional and part point decomposition formulas of the part point decomposition formula from the proportion and part design formulas in the part design formula.
  • the calculation result of the proportion of the part design formula and the part point decomposition formula forms a gear number type card; in the gear difference type card on the model drawing, the same gear difference number as the part gear difference is selected.
  • Type card to select the gear pattern of the clothing pattern.
  • the calculation formula of the calculation part point decomposition formula and its proportion select the position difference of the armor to select the proportional and part point decomposition formula; or select the file formed by the ratio
  • the calculation formula of the ratio (the vertical ⁇ calculation formula is omitted) is an example: Select the same gear difference as the clothing part difference to select the proportional and part point decomposition formula; to carry out the clothing pattern of the gear difference drawing - front ⁇ waist
  • the horizontal X calculation formula in the decomposition formula of the locus 9 is also the distance from the point 9 to the ⁇ axis of the front squat position.
  • the position difference of the clothing pattern is the part difference of the corresponding clothing pattern in the clothing specification (such as Table 1 and Table 2) (the position difference of the clothing part/the number of the clothing pattern); 4 is the parameter hip circumference Specifications are 4CM.
  • Proportion part of the pattern of the service pattern I parameter hip circumference difference 4 / aliquot (or the calculation of the position of the relative part; for example, the calculation of the front part of the waist in the clothing plane drawing method and its clothing model map 1 Decomposition formula)
  • the X-calculation formula of the decomposing formula of the front foot part is 9
  • the step of the width of the hem is 1CM
  • the pattern of the clothing pattern is drawn, according to the specifications of the clothing, such as according to Table 2, the circumference of the hem is 1CM (the width of the trousers)
  • the difference is 0.5CMX 2);
  • the calculation formula of the calculation part point decomposition formula and its proportion select the 1CM of the men's trousers and the foot circumference; select the ratio 1/16 and the part point decomposition formula ⁇ /16 ⁇ +3.75;
  • the formula for calculating the position of the point 9 of the foot portion is taken as an example -
  • the shape and shape of the garment moderately select the appropriate amount of clothing to determine the size of the single piece of clothing: The measured circumference of the human body (measured on the clothes) is fixed; however, the clothing type The amount of relaxation is different, and the shape of the garment (the type of the one-piece expansion) is different. According to the shape and shape of the garment (such as width and narrowness), the amount of relaxation of the garment type is selected; it is on the measured circumference of the body type, and the volume and the amount of the garment are gradually narrowed to wide, and the shape of the garment is expressed by the shape of the garment. Phase S change relationship, moderately choose the appropriate amount of clothing relaxation; to determine the size of the clothing.
  • the range of relaxation of male trousers is in the range of Between 4 and 24CM;
  • the 14CM style shape (width and width) of the male trousers is most suitable: so between 4 and 2 CM, moderately choose male trousers.
  • the pattern of the clothing pattern is selected, and the number of the same type as the clothing is selected: the part of the selected part point decomposition formula is the same as the part number of the clothing; or the selection is formed by the type The number scale on the type card; the joint form the plan of the number structure, to draw the pattern of the clothing pattern:
  • the type of the male trousers 104 and the front waist point point 9 decomposition formula 10 As an example, the figure 104 of the male trousers is the same as the number 104 in the part point formula.
  • Hip circumference 104CM that is, the number type is an example: Select the specifications of the clothing: No. 04 part point; To carry out the pattern of the clothing pattern 104 Drawing:
  • plan view of the number structure On the plan view of the number structure, according to the specification number of the garment, form a plan view of the specification structure - when the specification number of the garment is different from the specification number of the structural plan; on the plan of the number structure, adjust according to the specification of the garment. Place) or select the position of the adjustment value of each part point; form a plan view of the specification structure.
  • the specification structure plan view 615 formed on the structural plan view 6 and the distribution face on the structural plan view 61 may be all of it or a part thereof.
  • the size of the male trousers is 25CM :
  • the male trousers of Table 2 are 103CM (99CM, waist 4CM):
  • Lengthen or select position 612 of 0.5CM (relative to the length of the trousers 1CM/2), and mark 613 (knee) with a flat line.
  • the position of the bit flat line 613 can be retracted or selected on the flat line 613, but does not belong to the example of the embodiment in the P9' valley.
  • leg width of Table 2 is 22CM:
  • [1/16H (104) +3.75] is the point position of the horizontal X of the front foot part point; one is narrowed relative to the Y axis: 0.25 is narrowed or selected at the position of the point 9 of the front foot part
  • the size is 0.25CM, and 0.25CM is an adjustment value of 0.25.
  • the shape of the male trousers is most suitable; therefore, according to its The shape and shape of the male trousers are shown in the position of the point 9 of the front footrest portion of the figure structure plan view 61 of Fig. 6, narrowing or selecting the size - 0.25 CM; forming the plan view 615 of the specification structure of Fig. 7; Male trousers specification number: If the trousers are 22CSI wide.
  • the pattern design drawing of the garment pattern according to the shape and shape of the garment on the specification structure plan is decomposed into: part point; part; setting province and pleat; four steps of structural line design drawing - for example,
  • the structural plan 51 and the outline 54 of FIG. 4 are used to illustrate the pattern design drawing method for the clothing pattern on the specification structure plan:
  • narrow or select - 1 CM which is the position of the front waist point 52.
  • Front waist width 11 according to the shape of the male trousers, set the province 41 to 3CM and the pleat 42 to 5CM on the specification structure plan 51.
  • the position of the point 53 on the front sill line 34; the shape of the male trousers is narrowed or selected after 1 CM; the position of the point 55 on the contour map 54; the position of the point 55, the approximate joint is formed Contour 54.
  • the point on the plan of the garment structure refers to the point on the plan of the garment structure, and the point on the structure line; on the plan view of the garment structure, the position of the points is different, the style of the pattern of the clothing is different, and the shape of the garment is shaped. Performance is different.
  • the structural line refers to the line that determines the shape of the plan view of the garment structure: it includes the structure line itself, the point of the structure, and the province and pleats set according to the shape of the garment: the provincial point and the pleats Points, and provincial roads.
  • the pattern design of the garment pattern is drawn; the position of the point on the structure line is moderately retracted or selected on the line of the structure. How much is the size.
  • the points on the structure line include the point of the part and the point on the structure line; therefore, it is considered that the position of the point on the structure line is moderately retracted or selected, and the size of the point on the structure line is at the position of the point, moderately The size of the retractable or selected point.
  • the position of the point is retracted or the selected lateral dimension value or the longitudinal dimension value of + and one, relative to the position of the X-axis or the ⁇ -axis on the ⁇ 0 ⁇ geometric plane of the structural plan view - the front waist point point 1 is relative
  • the position of the X-axis 18 and the ⁇ -axis 19 on the X0Y geometric plane of the structural plan view is 1-1 cm after the lateral narrowing of 1 CM;
  • Example 2 The position of the point 53 on the front structural line 34 of Fig. 4; after the lateral shape of the male trousers is narrowed by 1 CM; the point 55 on the contour map 54 is taken as an example;
  • the position of the point is determined according to the shape of the body and the shape of the garment; the amount of retraction is gradually received from the receiving, moderately retracted or selected. What is the size value or the longitudinal dimension value; the design drawing of the pattern shape of the clothing pattern:
  • Example 3 ⁇ 4 Take the front width of the front waist point of the front waist point 1 of the front waist part of Figure 4 as an example: The position of the front width of the front waist point relative to the Y axis: Obesity type The amount of relaxation is +; the amount of narrowing of the lean body is one; assuming that the front sill of the front waist is 1 or the range of the selection is between +1 and 58 and 3 CM of 57: according to the range +1 - — when 3CM gradually retracts or selects the position of the site; the relationship between the shape and the shape of the male trousers; for example, in the imagination and experience, the front waist of the male trousers is considered When the lateral width of the front sill of the locus 1 is narrowed or 1 CM is selected, the style of the trousers of the male trousers is most suitable.
  • the front waist point 1 is moderately narrowed or the appropriate lateral dimension value is 1C.
  • the pattern design drawing of the male trousers on the male trousers model map or the shape copying of the garment is taken as an example: First, the plane structure of the male trousers structure plan view of FIG. 3 is formed to form the figures of FIGS. 5, 6, and 7. A series of male trousers model drawings; then in the series of male trousers on the model of Figure 5, 6 7 according to the design of the male trousers or the shape of the male trousers.
  • the gear number card of the corresponding part point selects the same type of difference card type as the clothing part; for example, the previous lame point point 9 is an example - as shown in Table 2, when the male trousers Specifications difference: When the length of the pants is 0:
  • the gear difference type card (1) and (2> in the front footrest point 9 are in accordance with the specifications of the clothing - the length difference of the pants length is 0, and the gear width of the pants width is 0. 5, select the difference between the specifications of the clothing: the length of the pants is 0, the width of the trousers is 0. 5, the difference card (2);
  • the specification number of the male trousers is 104CM at the hip circumference;
  • the size of the trousers of the male trousers is 104CM for the hips, and the number scale 104 on the point card of each part of the joint structure plan is formed;
  • the number of the table 1 is the hip circumference 104, the gear difference 2
  • the CO forms a plan of the specification structure according to the specification number of the clothing on the plan view of the type structure:
  • the style is designed to be retracted or selected for the pattern design of the garment pattern:
  • the structural plan 51 and the outline 54 of Fig. 4 are used to illustrate the design drawing method of the clothing pattern on the plan of the specification structure;
  • the position of the carved point is displayed according to the shape of the body and the style of the garment. As shown in Fig. 4, after the position of the front waist point 1 is narrowed or 1C is selected, it is the position of the front waist point 52;
  • a 3CM and a pleated 5CM are placed in the front waist width portion 11.
  • the position of the points on the CD) structure line is displayed according to the shape of the garment.
  • the outline of the pattern is formed:
  • the position of the point 53 on the front sill line 34 of the male trousers clothing cropping is narrowed or 1CM is selected, which is the point 55 on the contour line 54. After the point 55 is approximately coupled, the contour line 54 is formed.
  • the copied male trousers have a length difference of 0 :
  • the gap difference type card (1) and (2) of the front foot position point 9 the gear length of the pants length is 0, and the gear width of the leg width is 0.5.
  • Type card (2) the gear width of the leg width is 0.5.
  • the number scale 104 on the dot type card on each part of the joint structure plan view forms a plan view of the type 104 structure 61.
  • the plan structure is formed according to the size of the control part of the copied garment: Please refer to Figure 6 for the model diagram and the figure 104 structure plan 61 -
  • the front nucleus point 1 is narrowed by 1 CM;
  • the position of the point 53 on the front line portion 5 to the front foot portion point 9 or the hard ruler (the front sill line 34), and the position at the point 55 on the contour line 54 The distance is CM.
  • the front middle width is 22.75CM
  • Narrow or select the distance from the front knee joint point 7 to the midline 19 of the pants. 22. 75/2 11. Location of 375 56;
  • the front sill structure line 34 (the front squat portion point 5 to the front squat portion point 9 connection line or "hard ruler"), the position of the metric point 53 to the point 55 on the contour line 54 is 1CM;
  • the position of the point 55 on the contour line 54 is approximated to form the contour line 54.
  • the specifications of other styles of clothing patterns (such as the male trousers structure plan 51 of Fig. 4) are performed (2): the length of the pants is 0 and the other type is 108CM.
  • the trousers structure plan 51 is illustrated as an example: Please refer to the figure model diagram and the specification structure plan 615 of Fig. 7, and the male trousers structure plan 51 of Fig. 4: First:
  • the gear number card (1) and (2) at the front foot part point 9; the difference with the male trousers is selected: the length of the pants is 2, the width of the trousers is 0. . 5 the same differential number card (2);
  • Figure 5 shows the front scale of the model on the first waist of the model. Position, point to the position of the front waist point 1 (the specification structure plan 615 of Figure 7 is 104CM);
  • example number is 108CM
  • example number is 108CM

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Processing Or Creating Images (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Management, Administration, Business Operations System, And Electronic Commerce (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de conception et de réalisation de patrons de coupe de vêtements en fonction de la structure plane d'un graphique. Ledit procédé consiste d'abord : à concevoir et à réaliser des patrons de coupe de vêtements en fonction de la structure plane d'un graphique sur lequel un plan géométrique XOY, des points de partie, des parties de vêtement, des lignes moyennes, des formules de calcul de parties de vêtement, des formules de conception de parties de vêtement, des formules de dissociation de points, des pinces, des plis, des lignes de construction et des lignes de couture sont définis. Une première étape consiste : à sélectionner la proportion en fonction d'une catégorie standard pour dessiner le graphique de la catégorie de patron de coupe de vêtement; à sélectionner les quantités appropriées de marge pour déterminer la taille d'un vêtement; à sélectionner la taille en fonction de la taille du vêtement pour dessiner la taille du patron de coupe de vêtement. Une seconde étape consiste : à sélectionner une valeur réglée en fonction de la forme du corps, et du dessin du style de vêtement et à modéliser cette expression pour concevoir et dessiner le style du patron de coupe de vêtement.
PCT/CN2007/002746 2006-09-18 2007-09-18 Procédé de conception et de réalisation de patrons de coupe de vêtements en fonction de la structure plane d'un graphique WO2008040167A1 (fr)

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CN200610122173.6 2006-09-18
CN2006101221736A CN101006873B (zh) 2006-09-18 2006-09-18 按一种结构平面图的平面结构进行服装纸样设计制图方法

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CN112395786A (zh) * 2019-08-19 2021-02-23 柯镂虚拟时尚股份有限公司 服装纸样的自动放码
CN113313842A (zh) * 2020-02-26 2021-08-27 柯镂虚拟时尚股份有限公司 在服装的纸样块上显示省道的方法及装置

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CN101006873B (zh) * 2006-09-18 2012-03-07 邓炎驹 按一种结构平面图的平面结构进行服装纸样设计制图方法
CN101485499B (zh) * 2009-01-19 2014-03-05 吴厚林 裤装板型与裤装结构设计技法
CN102578735B (zh) * 2012-02-23 2014-08-13 东华大学 一种服装制版方法
CN106991227B (zh) * 2017-03-29 2020-05-22 广东溢达纺织有限公司 服装纸样度尺系统及方法

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CN101006873A (zh) * 2006-09-18 2007-08-01 邓炎驹 按一种结构平面图的平面结构进行服装纸样设计制图方法

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JP2001011723A (ja) * 1999-07-01 2001-01-16 Chiyomi Hayakawa 洋裁用原型
CN2553444Y (zh) * 2002-06-04 2003-05-28 贺宪亭 服装计算机辅助设计用数字板
CN1395893A (zh) * 2002-08-06 2003-02-12 邓炎驹 服装结构平面制图方法
CN1765248A (zh) * 2005-04-13 2006-05-03 邓炎驹 服装平面制图方法及其服装模型图
CN1748601A (zh) * 2005-10-11 2006-03-22 东华大学 一种基于风格的服装款式快速生成方法
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CN112395786A (zh) * 2019-08-19 2021-02-23 柯镂虚拟时尚股份有限公司 服装纸样的自动放码
CN113313842A (zh) * 2020-02-26 2021-08-27 柯镂虚拟时尚股份有限公司 在服装的纸样块上显示省道的方法及装置
CN113313842B (zh) * 2020-02-26 2024-01-05 柯镂虚拟时尚股份有限公司 在服装的纸样块上显示省道的方法及装置

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