WO2008031684A1 - Extrait de apium graveolens pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux - Google Patents

Extrait de apium graveolens pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2008031684A1
WO2008031684A1 PCT/EP2007/058489 EP2007058489W WO2008031684A1 WO 2008031684 A1 WO2008031684 A1 WO 2008031684A1 EP 2007058489 W EP2007058489 W EP 2007058489W WO 2008031684 A1 WO2008031684 A1 WO 2008031684A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
apium
use according
acid
extracts
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PCT/EP2007/058489
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Melanie Giesen
Thomas Welss
Klaus Rudolf SCHRÖDER
Olaf HOLTKÖTTER
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Priority to EP07802632A priority Critical patent/EP2061425A1/fr
Publication of WO2008031684A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008031684A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00Preparations for affecting hair growth
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium for the treatment of hair.
  • the human skin with its appendages is a very complex organ composed of a variety of different cell types. Every living cell of this organ is able to respond to signals of its internal and external environment. These reactions of the cells are realized by an orderly regulation on gene and protein level, so that the metabolism of skin cells and their appendages is not static but very dynamic. However, the reactions of the skin and / or its appendages to environmental changes should not be considered as reactions of isolated isolated cells. Rather, each cell is integrated into a complex communication network. This network includes e.g. the communication between cells of the epidermis and cells of the dermis. At the communication between the cells of the skin and / or their appendages, signal molecules, e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.
  • signal molecules e.g. Interleukins, growth factors (e.g., KGF, EGF or FGF), etc. are involved.
  • the aging process is a fundamental biological process found in almost all living organisms. Accordingly, the human skin is affected by this phenomenon. Skin aging is a progressive process leading to a loss of skin homeostasis. It is influenced by endogenous and exogenous factors. While the endogenous aspects run as a "genetically controlled program", environmental factors such as UV light are responsible for the exogenous factors.
  • ATP adenosine triphosphate
  • ADP and Pi inorganic phosphate
  • ATP is produced in the cellular, oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins.
  • ATP serves the cell, also the biologically active cells of the hair follicle, as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes. These processes are endergonic, ie they only take place when energy is supplied. In order to optimally maintain and renew their metabolism and cellular structures, cells are therefore dependent on an adequate supply of ATP.
  • ORS keratinocytes outer root sheath keratinocytes
  • ATP synthesis the proliferation and differentiation of ORS keratinocytes (outer root sheath keratinocytes) is coupled to ATP synthesis, as both processes involve the biosynthesis of specific proteins essential condition is.
  • dermal papilla cells also require the production of growth factors and thus the control of the hair cycle ATP. Therefore, a sufficient supply of the hair follicle with ATP is essential for strong, vital and healthy hair.
  • the amount of a hair-active agent which can usually penetrate transdermally and especially transfollicularly to the hair bulb, is extremely low and depends essentially on the physicochemical properties of the substance itself (eg size, charge, lipophilicity) and the choice of formulation.
  • Hair follicle cells undergo a genetically determined cycle of growth, regression, and resting phase.
  • the hair follicle is thus the only organ that constantly renews itself and thus, depending on the respective growth phase, has a unique metabolism.
  • the hair follicle's metabolism almost completely stops in the resting phase and is also reinitiated with each new beginning of another cycle.
  • This cycle is controlled by a small, highly specialized cell population in the hair bulb, the dermal papilla cells, which control hair growth through a complex set of molecular signals specific to each phase of the hair cycle (Botchkarev VA et al. (2003) J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc 8: 46-55).
  • the genus of celery includes the different types of celery Apium graveolens (true celery), Apium inundatum (flowering celery), Apium nodiflorum (nodular celery) and Apium repens (creeping celery).
  • the fruits of the real celery are popularly used occasionally as a diuretic in diseases of the urinary tract and in rheumatic diseases and gout, and as so-called "blood cleansers”.
  • EP1232167 describes the anti-oxidative effect of aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic extracts of germinating plants.
  • the selection of a germinating plant is called celery.
  • the extracts are said to provide UV protection and protection against environmental toxins in skin and hair cells.
  • JP2001139484 discloses the topical use of cosmetic preparations with extracts which may contain Apium graveolens.
  • the skin care formulations described are said to have an anti-oxidative effect. It has now surprisingly been found that when applying agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium on the hair, scalp, hairy skin or on skin areas where hair growth has been discontinued for a long time, but where hair growth is desired, the hair root reactivates and hair growth is significantly improved.
  • the agents containing active ingredients obtained from plants of the genus Apium are suitable for stimulating the release of growth factors and for strengthening and / or thickening the hair by stimulating the proliferation of the hair keratinocytes.
  • the present invention therefore relates to the use of an agent containing active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium for the treatment of hair, in particular for the stimulation of hair growth and for strengthening (thickening) of the hair.
  • Apium is selected in particular from Apium graveolens (true celery), Apium inundatum
  • Celery Apium graveolens is preferably used by the company Frutarom.
  • Active substances obtainable from plants of the genus Apium are to be understood as meaning the plant itself, its plant parts, extracts and pressed juices of Apium graveolens, in particular from the seeds, and active substances to be obtained from these extracts.
  • Extracts of Apium graveolens are particularly preferred.
  • the pressed juices or extracts are preferably obtained from the leaves, fruits, flowers, stems, roots, tubers and / or seeds of the Apium plant.
  • aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic extracts or alcoholic extracts of the Apium plant Preference is given to aqueous extracts or aqueous-alcoholic extracts or aqueous-organic extracts or alcoholic extracts of the Apium plant.
  • the extracts may be prepared with water, as well as polar or nonpolar organic solvents, as well as mixtures thereof in a manner known to those skilled in the art. Extracts that can be obtained by extraction with ethanol or water / ethanol mixtures and press juice are preferred. Besides ethanol, the active compounds from the Apium plant can also be obtained by extraction with other alcohols, for example with methanol, propanol, propanol, isopronaol and / or propylene glycol. The ratio of alcohol to water is preferably 1: 1 to 1: 2 or 1: 3.
  • extracts in the original extractant and extracts / compressed juice in water or other organic solvents and / or mixtures thereof, in particular ethanol, and also ethanol / water mixtures.
  • extracted or pressed material is used as a solid to which the solvent (in particular as gently as possible) was removed.
  • those extracts / compressed juices to which the solvent has been partly removed, so that a thickened extract / compressed juice is used.
  • the extracts and / or compressed juices are used in solid form.
  • the amount of ATP in the treated follicles is significantly increased in comparison with a sample which does not contain any active ingredients of the Apium plants (Example 7, Table 1).
  • the biologically active part of the hair is provided significantly more ATP as an energy source for biochemical syntheses and transport processes, so that metabolic processes and cellular structures can be optimally maintained and renewed.
  • the hair is thereby fortified and vitalized and can better repair damage or build new hair.
  • the increase in metabolic activity promotes hair growth, since for the underlying processes sufficient building blocks such as e.g. Amino acids must be provided for protein synthesis; the energy required for this purpose is e.g. provided by the metabolism of glucose.
  • Another advantage of the present invention is that the agents containing agents derived from Apium plants are able to positively affect hair growth by activating not only genes that promote hair growth, but also specific hair growth inhibiting genes are repressed (eg TGFbI, IGFBP3, Example 8).
  • the repression of the inhibiting genes causes the hair root to reactivate and premature hair loss can be prevented.
  • the hair structure is already influenced by the hair roots, so that the hair can regrow vigorously and healthy.
  • the hair is positively influenced in its structure, its growth and its metabolism.
  • the gene expression of the important hair genes was significantly regulated by the use of the agent according to the invention.
  • Hair treatment products especially shampoos, hair conditioners, hair gels,
  • Hair lotions, hair treatments, hair creams, hair lotions, hair sprays and hair tinctures are hair lotions, hair treatments, hair creams, hair lotions, hair sprays and hair tinctures.
  • the funds can remain on the hair.
  • the agent can be rinsed off after a contact time.
  • This rinsing can be done with pure water or a commercially available shampoo.
  • the active ingredients of the Apiumpflanze can remain in the hair and are not washed out. As a result, a temporally improved penetration of active ingredients is granted to the hair follicle.
  • Active substances obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, preferably the pressed juices and / or extracts of Apium, are preferably present in said agents in amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 0.01 to 2 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.
  • Haartonics especially as a leave on formulation. These are preferably used at room temperature, the alcoholic content is preferably in the range of about 30% to about 35% and the pH should be about pH 7.
  • the use of liposome-encapsulated active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium has proved to be advantageous.
  • the encapsulation of the active compounds obtainable from extracts and / or press juices from the plant of the genus Apium, with subsequent encapsulation in liposomes is particularly preferred.
  • Such liposomes can be used in particular in Haartonics.
  • encapsulated liposomes other substances may be encapsulated in addition to the active ingredients of the Apiumpflanze, which are useful for the application.
  • the agents containing the active ingredients of the plants of the genus Apium may also be used for other hair treatment agents, e.g. Hair colorants and waving agents are added.
  • These agents then optionally contain the known substantive dyes, precursors for oxidation dyes (developer and coupler components) and oxidizing or reducing agents.
  • the agents can thus protect the hair from the stress of dyeing, activate the hair follicle and at the same time reduce or relieve skin irritation through the hair dye or hair dye.
  • creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, are packaged as formulations of the preparations containing the agents according to the invention.
  • Gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. are usually formulated on an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic basis.
  • alcoholic component while lower alkanols and polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol are used. Ethanol and isopropanol are preferred alcohols. Water and alcohol may be present in the aqueous alcoholic base in a weight ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.
  • Water and aqueous-alcoholic mixtures which contain up to 50% by weight, in particular up to 25% by weight, of alcohol, based on the mixture of alcohol and water, can be preferred bases according to the invention.
  • the pH of this Preparations may in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 2 and 7, with values of 3 to 5 being particularly preferred.
  • acids are used as acids. Acid acids are understood to mean those acids which are absorbed as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Exotic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid.
  • citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • the funds can be made up as a single-chamber system or as a two-chamber system.
  • the agents may in principle contain all other components known to those skilled in the art of such cosmetic compositions.
  • the agents may additionally comprise protein hydrolysates.
  • they are cationized protein hydrolysates, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate is derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products called: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed SiCl, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
  • film-forming substances can additionally be incorporated into the formulations, which are absorbed by the hair and thus thicken directly and perceptibly.
  • Suitable film formers are known to the person skilled in the art and are selected, for example, from polymers, e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidone and copolymers thereof.
  • such an agent contains a hair growth stimulating agent.
  • a hair growth stimulating agent Particular preference is given to using those compounds which are selected from 5- ⁇ -reductase inhibitors, minoxidil (6-piperidino-2,4-pyrimidinediamine-3-oxide) and aminexil (diaminopyrimidine oxide) as hair growth-stimulating active substances.
  • Particularly suitable 5- ⁇ -reductase inhibitors are functional C 2 -C 12 -carboxylic acids and their physiologically acceptable metal salts, in particular 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 10-hydroxydecenoic acid and its derivatives, derivatives of C 3 -C 9 -polymers, phenol derivatives, plant extracts, fragrances, flavonoids, isoflavonoids, 6,7-disubstituted 2,2-dialkylchromans or chromenes, aluminum chlorohydrate, 2-phenylethanol, etidronic acid, 7- Acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, tropolone derivatives, esters of sulfuric acid with alkoxylated
  • derivatives are meant in particular their salts, esters and amides.
  • the hair growth-stimulating effect of the active ingredients can be improved by their use in agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium.
  • agents containing active ingredients which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium.
  • the hair growth stimulating agent is also selected in this combination from minoxidil and finasteride.
  • auxiliaries and additives are, for example, nonionic surfactants such as alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk (en) yloligoglucosides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters and polysorbates , If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional or narrow homolog distribution.
  • nonionic surfactants such as alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, in particular ethoxylated castor oil, alk
  • anionic surfactants in particular alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, soaps and sulfosuccinic mono- and
  • zwitterionic surfactants in particular the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N , N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example, the cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl- dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline with in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate, ampholytic surfactants such as,
  • nonionic polymers such as, for example, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya
  • Derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. B. bentonite or fully synthetic
  • Hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol,
  • Structural agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, such as soybean lecithin, egg lecithin and
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and
  • 12 to 36 C atoms in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl -n-octyl ether, n-
  • Fatty alcohols in particular linear and / or saturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 C atoms, and
  • Fatty acid fiber structure-improving agents in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, conditioning agents such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, eg. Sunflower oil, orange oil,
  • Lecithin and cephaline quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Light stabilizers in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines, other substances for adjusting the pH, such as ⁇ - and ß-
  • Active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol, Cholesterol,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • Reducing agents such as B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C6-C30, preferably C10-C22 and very particularly preferably C12-C22, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol®, eg Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, eg Lanette® O or Lorol®, eg Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, eg Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 for sale.
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • the fatty acids used can be linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • isostearic acids such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875
  • isopalmic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95
  • fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.1-10% by weight, with amounts of 0.1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • the natural or synthetic waxes used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, montan wax, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies which can advantageously be used according to the invention include, for example: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, eg in the pressure cracking of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleylalkohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and Brassidylalkohol and their technical mixtures, eg incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), isononanoate C16-18-alkyl ester (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), stearic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B) , Myristyl myristate (C
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2) ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies in the compositions used according to the invention is usually 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 to 15% by weight. -%.
  • the agents may also contain surfactants. These may be anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants as well as cationic surfactants.
  • a combination of anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used.
  • anionic and nonionic surfactants or a combination of anionic and amphoteric surfactants is used.
  • the skilled person can also largely or completely dispense with the use of surfactants.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants in compositions according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • Sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH2-CH2O) x-OSO3H in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates, amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044, condensation products of C8 - C30 fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and derivatives thereof which are known to the person skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, for example the Lamepon® types, Gluadin® types, Hostapon® KCG or the Amisoft® types.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z.
  • Such compounds are, for example
  • Atoms in the alkyl group such as those under the sales name Dehydol®
  • Polyol fatty acid esters such as the commercial product Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or
  • Sovermol types (Cognis), alkoxylated triglycerides, alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula R 1 O- (Z) x . These connections are identified by the following parameters.
  • the alkyl radical R 1 contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols When so-called "oxo-alcohols" are used as starting materials, compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • the alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain, for example, only one particular alkyl radical R 1 .
  • these compounds are prepared starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils.
  • the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular work-up of these compounds.
  • alkyl polyglycosides are those in which R 1 consists essentially of C 8 - and C O alkyl groups, essentially of C 2 - and C 4 alkyl groups, essentially of C 8 - to C 6 -alkyl or substantially of C 2 - to Ci 6 alkyl groups.
  • sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides.
  • sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are used.
  • Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose.
  • Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.
  • alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1: 1 to 1, 4.
  • the alkyl glycosides can also serve to improve the fixation of fragrance components on the hair.
  • this substance class as a further constituent of the preparations according to the invention in the event that an effect of the perfume oil on the hair which exceeds the duration of the hair treatment is desired.
  • alkoxylated homologs of said alkyl polyglycosides can also be used according to the invention. These homologs may contain on average up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.
  • zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as cosurfactants.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO () or -SO 3 () group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimetic acid thylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylgly- cinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 alkyl- -C 8 -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or - contain SO 3 H group and are capable of forming inner salts
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C - atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate the, cocoacylamin
  • the cationic surfactants used are, in particular, those of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines.
  • Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkyl methylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element.
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • An invention Particularly suitable compound from this group of substances is the commercially available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used.
  • normal homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologues which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A1) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B1 thiamine
  • Vitamin B2 riboflavin
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin B5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B5 type are contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.
  • the preparations used according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Of course, several vitamins and vitamin precursors may also be present at the same time. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • the amount of vitamins and vitamin precursors used in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.0001-10% by weight, based on the total agent, preferably 0.0001-5% by weight, and in particular 0.0001-3% by weight. %.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • plant extracts may be incorporated into the agents used, the active compounds which are obtainable from plants of the genus Apium.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • an object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, wherein the agent may contain additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anioic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, reducing agents.
  • additional ingredients selected from the group consisting of protein hydrolysates, film-forming substances, other hair growth stimulating agents, nonionic surfactants, anioic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, nonionic polymers, thickeners, perfume oils, dyes, light stabilizers, antioxidants, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, reducing agents.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use, in particular the cosmetic use for vitalization of hair, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth, hair thickening, treatment of hair loss and hair conditioning.
  • an object of the present invention is the use of an agent containing active ingredients obtainable from plants of the genus Apium to stimulate hair growth and to re-activate the hair roots, especially where hair growth has been discontinued for a long time.
  • the reactivation is effected in particular by repression and / or reduction of hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method, in particular a cosmetic method for revitalizing hair, hair thickening, stimulation of energy metabolism in hair follicles, activation of hair follicles, promotion or enhancement of hair growth or for hair conditioning, characterized in that a means containing active ingredients, obtainable from plants of the genus Apium, applied to the hair or the hairy skin.
  • hair growth inhibiting genes in the dermal papilla cells are repressed and / or reduced, so that the hair growth and the hair roots are stimulated and reactivated.
  • PROPYLENE GLYCOL PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE
  • Cutina CP V (formerly) Cutina CP PF (formerly) Cognis Germany GmbH Cetyl palmitate (vegetable base) CETYL PALMITATE
  • ATP adenosine triphosphate
  • ADP inorganic phosphate
  • This reaction is highly exergonic, meaning it releases energy.
  • ATP is produced in the cellular, oxidative degradation of fats, carbohydrates and proteins. It serves as an energy supplier for biochemical Syntheses, for transport processes (active transport) and for mechanical work. These processes are endergonic, ie they only take place when energy is supplied. In order to maintain their metabolism optimally, cells are thus dependent on an adequate supply of ATP. For example, dermal papilla cells also require the production of growth factors and thus the control of the hair cycle ATP.
  • ORS keratinocytes The proliferation and differentiation of ORS keratinocytes is also coupled to the ATP synthesis, as the biosynthesis of specific proteins is an essential prerequisite for both processes. If the ATP synthesis rate of the hair-relevant cells can be increased by a product, the cells have more energy available to maintain metabolic processes and cellular structures, and to renew structures, eg during repair processes or the rebuilding of hair.
  • the ATP determinations were made using the ATPLite TM -m assay (Packard).
  • the test principle of this assay is based on the fact that Photinus pyralis luciferase catalyzes a reaction in which D-luciferin is converted to oxyluciferin in the presence of ATP. In this reaction, green light is emitted which can be measured with a luminometer. The emitted bioluminescent light is proportional to the amount of ATP present.
  • ATP activity in dermal papilla cells are precultivated in a suitable manner while retaining their specific properties (DE10162814) and transferred to a 48-well cell culture dish.
  • the treatment with the substance mixture was carried out for 24 hours against an untreated control.
  • the cells were lysed for 5 min on a shaker with in each case 100 ⁇ l / well of a lysis buffer contained in the test kit.
  • the cells were then incubated for a further 5 min with in each case 100 .mu.l / well with the supplied substrate solution on the shaker and then transferred to the reaction mixture in a black microtiter plate. After an incubation time of 10 min in the dark, the luminescence was measured.
  • HGF Hepatocyte Growth Factor
  • KGF Keratinocyte Growth Factor
  • the differential gene expression of the target genes was determined by means of quantitative RT-PCR. After culturing the dermal papilla cells, they were incubated for 6-72 h with apium extract in the concentration of 0.1 and 0.01%. To carry out the PCR, the RNA is first isolated from the dermal papilla cells using the RNeasy Mini Kit from Qiagen and transcribed into cDNA by means of reverse transcription. In the subsequent PCR reaction, which is carried out with the aid of gene-specific primers for the respective hair-relevant genes and which serves to amplify the gene sections sought, the formation of the PCR products is detected online via a fluorescence signal. The fluorescence signal is proportional to the amount of the PCR product formed. The stronger the expression of a particular gene, the greater the amount of PCR product produced and the higher the fluorescence signal.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 1 and the expression of the genes to be determined referred to (x-fold expression).
  • values which are greater than or equal to twice the expression or less than or equal to the O. ⁇ fachen expression of the untreated control are classified as significantly differentially expressed.
  • Treatment with Apium extract results in significant induction of KGF gene expression after treatment of dermal papilla cells in vitro. Based on this expression profile can on the Induction of keratinocyte proliferation and thus be inferred to stimulation of hair growth. In addition, genes that inhibit hair growth are repremiert, which in addition to the fact that the hair root activity reactivated and premature hair loss is prevented.
  • the determination of the vitality of cultured cells provides information about the status of the cells. With this analysis, both cell-damaging substance concentrations can be defined, as well as cell-activating drug effects can be determined.
  • the vitality of cultured cells is determined by redox dyes. These dyes penetrate into the cell and are reduced by electron uptake on the outer mitochondrial membrane. This reduction requires a dye change, which is determined photometrically below.
  • the untreated control is set equal to 100% and the readings of the substance-treated samples are referenced thereto. At a relative vitality of less than 80% one speaks of cell-damaging, with greater / equal to 120% of cell-activating substance effects.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'un produit contenant des principes actifs issus de plantes du genre Apium pour traiter les cheveux, notamment pour revitaliser les cheveux, stimuler le métabolisme énergétique dans les follicules pileux, activer les follicules pileux, favoriser ou renforcer la pousse des cheveux, épaissir les cheveux, traiter la chute des cheveux et améliorer l'aspect des cheveux.
PCT/EP2007/058489 2006-09-13 2007-08-16 Extrait de apium graveolens pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux WO2008031684A1 (fr)

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EP07802632A EP2061425A1 (fr) 2006-09-13 2007-08-16 Extrait de apium graveolens pour stimuler la pousse des cheveux

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DE102006043767.5 2006-09-13
DE102006043767A DE102006043767A1 (de) 2006-09-13 2006-09-13 Extrakt aus Apium graveleons zur Stimulierung des Haarwuchses

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112858655A (zh) * 2013-03-15 2021-05-28 宝洁公司 用于测量皮肤健康代谢物的非侵入性方法

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN112858655A (zh) * 2013-03-15 2021-05-28 宝洁公司 用于测量皮肤健康代谢物的非侵入性方法
CN112858655B (zh) * 2013-03-15 2024-05-28 宝洁公司 用于测量皮肤健康代谢物的非侵入性方法

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