WO2008006677A1 - Composition cosmétique fluide comprenant un polymère gélifiant soluble dans l'eau dont l'action est induite par la chaleur, une phase aqueuse continue, une phase huileuse et un agent organique faisant écran aux uv - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique fluide comprenant un polymère gélifiant soluble dans l'eau dont l'action est induite par la chaleur, une phase aqueuse continue, une phase huileuse et un agent organique faisant écran aux uv Download PDF

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WO2008006677A1
WO2008006677A1 PCT/EP2007/056136 EP2007056136W WO2008006677A1 WO 2008006677 A1 WO2008006677 A1 WO 2008006677A1 EP 2007056136 W EP2007056136 W EP 2007056136W WO 2008006677 A1 WO2008006677 A1 WO 2008006677A1
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water
composition according
units
chosen
derivatives
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PCT/EP2007/056136
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English (en)
Inventor
Jean-Thierry Simonnet
Florence L'alloret
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L'oreal
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Priority claimed from FR0652979A external-priority patent/FR2903598A1/fr
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Publication of WO2008006677A1 publication Critical patent/WO2008006677A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/91—Graft copolymers

Definitions

  • the invention relates to fluid cosmetic compositions for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin and the hair, against the harmful effects of UV radiation, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one water-soluble heat- 10 induced gelling polymer, at least one continuous aqueous phase, at least one oily phase and at least one organic UV- screening agent.
  • the invention relates to the use of at least one heat-
  • induced gelling polymer in a fluid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one continuous aqueous phase, at least one oily phase and at least one agent for absorbing UV radiation, for the purpose of improving the
  • the invention relates to the use of at least one heat- induced gelling polymer in a fluid cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at
  • Light radiation with wavelengths of between 280 and 400 nm permits tanning of the human epidermis; rays with wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm, which are 35 known as UVB rays, cause skin burns and erythema that may harm the development of a tan. Rays with wavelengths of between 320 and 400 nm, which are known as UVA rays, are liable to induce impairment in the skin, especially with loss of elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature ageing.
  • UVA and UVB rays should thus be screened out, and cosmetic compositions for protecting the human epidermis, containing UV- screening agents and having a fluid texture to allow easy application to the skin, currently exist.
  • these fluid compositions have the aesthetic drawback of spreading non-uniformly on the skin, the hair or keratin materials in general, and the technical drawback of having limited screening efficacy. This is reflected by a significant increase in the content of screening species in the composition, which runs counter to improving the harmlessness, the cosmeticity, the environmental friendliness and to achieving an economic saving.
  • This problem is mainly due to poor spreading caused by poor wetting of the skin, which is hydrophobic, and/or to rapid dewetting of the skin.
  • one subject of the present invention is a fluid composition
  • a fluid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one water-soluble heat-induced gelling polymer; b) at least one oily phase in a concentration ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; c) at least one continuous aqueous phase,- d) at least one organic UV- screening agent.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one water-soluble heat-induced gelling polymer in a fluid composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one continuous aqueous phase, at least one oily phase and at least one agent for absorbing UV radiation, for the purpose of increasing the sun protection factor (SPF) .
  • SPF sun protection factor
  • the invention relates to the use of at least one water- soluble heat-induced gelling polymer in a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one continuous aqueous phase, at least one oily phase and at least one agent for absorbing UV radiation, for the purpose of improving the homogeneity of spreading on keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the hair, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.
  • the sun protection factor is expressed mathematically as the ratio of the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythema- forming threshold with the UV- screening agent, to the dose of UV radiation necessary to reach the erythema- forming threshold without UV-screening agent.
  • agent for absorbing UV radiation means any organic or mineral compound capable of screening out UV radiation via any physical phenomenon such as scattering, diffraction, reflection and absorption.
  • fluid composition preferably means that the viscosity of the composition, measured using a Rheomat 180 viscometer at 25 0 C and at a spin speed of 200 rpm, is less than or equal to 5 Pa . s .
  • composition comprising at least one continuous aqueous phase means an oil-in-water or water-in-oil-in-water emulsion.
  • emulsions may be stabilized via any technique known to those skilled in the art: surfactants that do or do not form a lamellar phase at the surface of oil globules,- amphiphilic polymers (e.g.: AQ from Eastman (OA 97045) , Aristoflex from Clariant, Viscophobe DB 1000 from Dow Chemical, Pemulen from Noveon, and Aculyn 22, 28 and 88 from Rohm & Haas) ,- solid particles.
  • surfactants that do or do not form a lamellar phase at the surface of oil globules
  • - amphiphilic polymers e.g.: AQ from Eastman (OA 97045) , Aristoflex from Clariant, Viscophobe DB 1000 from Dow Chemical, Pemulen from Noveon, and Aculyn 22, 28 and
  • physiologically acceptable medium means a non-toxic medium that may be applied to the skin, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.
  • the composition of the invention may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • the heat-induced gelling polymers according to the invention are water-soluble and comprise water-soluble units and units having in water a lower critical solution temperature, LCST, the heat-induced demixing temperature in aqueous solution of the said units with an LCST being from 5 to 4O 0 C for a mass concentration in water of 1% of the said units and the concentration of the said polymer in the said composition being such that its gel point is in the range from 5 to 4O 0 C.
  • water-soluble polymer generally means a polymer that is soluble in water, at a temperature of from 5 to 8O 0 C, to a proportion of at least 10 g/1 and preferably of at least 20 g/1.
  • water-soluble polymer also means a polymer not necessarily having the solubility mentioned above, but which, in aqueous solution at 1% by weight, from 5 to 8O 0 C, allows the production of a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, irrespective of the wavelength between 400 and 800 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 85% and preferably of at least 90 % .
  • water-soluble units generally means that these units are soluble in water, at a temperature of from 5 to 8O 0 C, to a proportion of at least 10 g/1 and preferably of at least 20 g/1.
  • water-soluble units also means units not necessarily having the solubility mentioned above, but which, in aqueous solution at 1% by weight, from 5 to 8O 0 C, allow the production of a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, irrespective of the wavelength between 400 and 800 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 85% and preferably of at least 90%.
  • These water-soluble units have no heat-induced demixing temperature of LCST type .
  • unit with an LCST preferably means units whose solubility in water is modified beyond a certain temperature. These are units with a heat-induced demixing temperature (or cloud point) defining their region of solubility in water.
  • the minimum demixing temperature obtained as a function of the concentration of polymer consisting solely of units with an LCST is known as the "LCST” (Lower Critical Solution Temperature) .
  • LCST Lower Critical Solution Temperature
  • These units with an LCST of the polymer preferably have, according to the invention, a heat-induced demixing temperature of from 5 to 4O 0 C for a mass concentration in water of 1% by weight of the said units with an LCST. More preferentially, the heat-induced demixing temperature in aqueous solution of the units with an LCST of the polymer is from 10 to 35 0 C for a mass concentration in water of 1% of the said units with an LCST.
  • the polymer concentration is such that the gel point is in the range from 10 to 35 0 C.
  • the polymer having the structure described above with water-soluble units and specific units with an LCST defined above has in aqueous solution gelation properties beyond a critical temperature, or heat- induced gelling properties.
  • the minimum concentration required known as the "critical aggregation concentration” , or CAC, is evaluated by rheological measurements: it is the concentration at and above which the viscosity of an aqueous solution of the polymers of the invention becomes higher than the viscosity of a solution of the equivalent polymer not comprising chains with an LCST.
  • the polymers of the invention have gelling properties when the temperature becomes higher than a critical value, known as the "gel point", or T ge i.
  • T ge i a critical value
  • the gel point of an aqueous solution of a polymer of the invention is determined by rheological measurements: it is the temperature at and above which the viscosity of a solution of a polymer of the invention becomes higher than the viscosity of a solution of the equivalent polymer not comprising chains with an LCST.
  • the polymers of the invention are preferably characterized by a specific gel point generally of from 5 to 4O 0 C and preferably from 10 to 35 0 C, for a concentration by mass in water equal to, for example, 2% by weight.
  • the polymers used in the invention may be block polymers or grafted polymers, which comprise, on the one hand, water-soluble units and, on the other hand, units with an LCST as defined above.
  • the water- soluble units or the units with an LCST of the polymers used according to the invention are defined as not including the groups linking together, on the one hand, the said water-soluble units and, on the other hand, the said units with an LCST.
  • the said linking groups are derived from the reaction, during the preparation of the polymer, of the reactive sites borne, on the one hand, by the precursors of the said water-soluble units and, on the other hand, by the precursors of the said units with an LCST.
  • the polymers used in the context of the invention may thus be block polymers comprising, for example, blocks consisting of water-soluble units alternating with blocks with an LCST.
  • polymers may also be in the form of grafted polymers whose backbone is formed from water-soluble units, the said backbone bearing grafts consisting of units with an LCST.
  • the said polymers may be partially crosslinked.
  • These water-soluble units may be totally or partially obtained by polymerization, especially free-radical polymerization, or by polycondensation, or may consist totally or partially of existing natural or modified natural polymers .
  • the water-soluble units may be totally or partially obtained by polymerization, especially free-radical polymerization, of at least one monomer chosen from the following monomers: - (meth) acrylic acid;
  • - R is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 , and - X is chosen from:
  • R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a sulfonic (-SO 3 " ), sulfate (-SO 4 " ), phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 ); hydroxyl (-0H); primary amine (-NH 2 ); secondary amine (-NHRi), tertiary amine (-NR 1 R 2 ) or quaternary amine (-N + RiR 2 R 3 ) group with Ri, R 2 and R 3 being, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of R' + R 1 + R 2 + R 3 does not exceed 7; and
  • R 4 and R 5 are, independently of each other, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the total number of carbon atoms of R 4 + R 5 does not exceed 7, the said R 4 and R 5 optionally being substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-0H); sulfonic (-SO 3 " ) ; sulfate (-SO 4 " ) ; phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 ) ; primary amine (-NH 2 ); secondary amine (-NHR 1 ), tertiary amine (-NR 1 R 2 ) and/or quaternary amine (-N + R 1 R 2 R 3 ) group with R 1 , R 2 and R 3 being, independently of each other, a linear or branched, saturated or
  • N-vinyllactams such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinyl- caprolactam and N-butyrolactam;
  • R 6 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons ;
  • polycondensates and natural or modified natural polymers which may constitute all or part of the water- soluble units are chosen from one or more of the following components:
  • Rhodigel SM and Rhodigel 200 from Rhodia
  • alginates Kelcosol from Monsanto
  • derivatives thereof such as propylene glycol alginate (Kelcoloid LVF from Kelco)
  • - cellulose derivatives and especially carboxymethyl- cellulose Aquasorb A500, Hercules
  • hydroxypropyl - cellulose hydroxyethylcellulose and quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose
  • galactomannans and derivatives thereof such as Konjac gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) , guar hydroxypropyl - trimethylammonium chloride.
  • the water-soluble units preferably have a molar mass ranging from 1000 g/mol to 5 000 000 g/mol when they constitute the water-soluble backbone of a grafted polymer.
  • These water-soluble units preferably have a molar mass ranging from 500 g/mol to 100 000 g/mol when they constitute a block of a multiblock polymer.
  • the units with an LCST of the polymers used in the invention may be defined as being units whose water solubility is modified beyond a certain temperature. They are units with a heat-induced demixing temperature (or cloud point) defining their region of solubility in water.
  • the minimum demixing temperature obtained as a function of the polymer concentration is referred to as the "LCST" (Lower Critical Solution Temperature) .
  • LCST Lower Critical Solution Temperature
  • soluble in water at a temperature T means that the units have a solubility at T of at least 1 g/1 and preferably of at least 2 g/1.
  • the measurement of the LCST may be performed visually: the temperature at which the cloud point of the aqueous solution appears is determined; this cloud point is reflected by the opacification of the solution, or the loss of transparency.
  • a transparent composition will have a maximum light transmittance value, irrespective of the wavelength between 400 and 800 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 85% and preferably of at least 90%.
  • the transmittance may be measured by placing a sample 1 cm thick in the light beam of a spectrophotometer working at the wavelengths of the light spectrum.
  • the units with an LCST of the polymers used in the invention may consist of one or more polymers chosen from the following polymers: polyethers such as polypropylene oxide (PPO) or statistical copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) and of propylene oxide (PO) ,
  • PPO polypropylene oxide
  • EO ethylene oxide
  • PO propylene oxide
  • NIPAM poly-N-isopropylacrylamide
  • ethylacrylamide poly-N- ethylacrylamide
  • the units with an LCST consist of polypropylene oxide (PPO) n where n is an integer from 10 to 70, or of statistical copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) and of propylene oxide (PO) , represented by the formula:
  • EO EO 1n
  • PO n in which m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40 and preferably from 2 to 20, and n is an integer ranging from 10 to 60 and preferably from 20 to 50.
  • the molar mass of these units with an LCST is from 500 to 5300 g/mol and more preferably from 1500 to 4000 g/mol.
  • the units with an LCST may thus especially be polypropylene oxides such as the Polyglycols P3000 and P4000 from Dow Chemical, or amino, especially monoamine diamino or triamino, statistical copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide.
  • these polymers bear reactive sites, in this case amino groups, reacting with the reactive sites of the water-soluble polymers, for example carboxyl groups, to give the final polymer used in the invention.
  • the water-soluble units are linked to the units with an LCST via linking groups derived from the reaction of the reactive sites or groups borne, respectively, by the units with an LCST and the precursors of the water-soluble units. These linking groups will be, for example, amide, ester, ether or urethane groups.
  • the units with an LCST may also be derived from random EO/PO copolymers containing OH end groups, such as those sold under the name Polyglycols P41 and BIl by Clariant .
  • Polymeric and copolymeric N- substituted acrylamide derivatives containing units with an LCST, and also polyvinylcaprolactam and vinylcaprolactam copolymers, may also be used in the invention as units with an LCST.
  • polymeric and copolymeric N- substituted acrylamide derivatives containing units with an LCST mention may be made of poly-N-isopropylacrylamide, poly-N-ethylacrylamide and copolymers of N- isopropylacrylamide (or of N-ethylacrylamide) and of a vinyl monomer chosen from the monomers having the formula (I) given above, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, vinylpyrrolidone, styrene and its derivatives, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, vinylacetamide, vinyl ethers and vinyl acetate derivatives.
  • the molar mass of these polymers is preferably from 1000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol and preferably from 2000 to 50 000 g/mol.
  • These polymers may be synthesized by free-radical polymerization using a pair of initiators such as aminoethanethiol hydrochloride, in the presence of potassium persulfate, so as to obtain precursor oligomers with a reactive amino end group.
  • a pair of initiators such as aminoethanethiol hydrochloride, in the presence of potassium persulfate, so as to obtain precursor oligomers with a reactive amino end group.
  • vinylcaprolactam copolymers mention may be made of copolymers of vinylcaprolactam and of a vinyl monomer of formula (I) given above, or of a monomer chosen from maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, vinylpyrrolidone, styrene and its derivatives, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, vinylacetamide, vinyl alcohol, vinyl acetate, vinyl ethers and vinyl acetate derivatives .
  • the molar mass of these vinylcaprolactam polymers or copolymers is generally from 1000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol and preferably from 2000 to 50 000 g/mol.
  • These compounds may be synthesized by free-radical polymerization using a pair of initiators such as aminoethanethiol hydrochloride, in the presence of potassium persulfate, so as to obtain units with an LCST containing a reactive amino end group.
  • a pair of initiators such as aminoethanethiol hydrochloride, in the presence of potassium persulfate, so as to obtain units with an LCST containing a reactive amino end group.
  • the mass proportion of the units with an LCST in the final polymer is preferably from 5% to 70%, especially from 10% to 60% and particularly from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the final polymer.
  • the heat-induced demixing temperature of the said units with an LCST of the polymer used in the invention is from 5 to 4O 0 C and preferably from 10 to 35 0 C, for a concentration by mass in water of 1% by weight of the said units with an LCST .
  • polymers used in the context of the invention may be readily prepared by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, using grafting, copolymerization or coupling reaction processes.
  • the final polymer is in the form of a grafted polymer, especially having a water-soluble backbone with side chains or grafts with an LCST
  • This reaction may be carried out in the presence of a carbodiimide such as dicyclohexylcarbodiimide or 1- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) - 3-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride, in a solvent such as N-methylpyrrolidone or water.
  • a carbodiimide such as dicyclohexylcarbodiimide or 1- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) - 3-ethylcarbodiimide hydrochloride
  • Another possibility for preparing grafted polymers consists in copolymerizing, for example, a macromonomer with an LCST (chain with an LCST described above with a vinyl end group) and a water-soluble vinyl monomer such as acrylic acid or vinyl monomers of formula (I) .
  • the final polymer is in the form of a block polymer, it is possible to prepare it by coupling between water-soluble units and units with an LCST, these units having complementary reactive sites at each end.
  • the reactive sites of the units with an LCST may be amine functions, especially monoamine, diamine or triamine functions, and OH functions.
  • the reactive sites of the water-soluble units may be carboxylic acid functions.
  • the groups linking the water-soluble units and the units with an LCST will thus be, for example, amide groups or ester groups.
  • the heat-induced gelling polymers in accordance with the invention may be chosen from those described in the following patents and patent applications: patent applications EP 1 307 501, EP 1 355 990, EP
  • polyurethanes comprising polyethylene oxide/polypropylene oxide/polyethylene oxide (or PEO-PPO-PEO) groups such as those described in patent applications EP-I 407 791 (Example 1 describes a polyurethane derived from the polycondensation of Pluronic F-127 with hexamethylene diisocyanate) , EP-A-692 506, FR-A-
  • Such polyurethanes are obtained in a known manner by polycondensation of diisocyanates and of heat-sensitive PEO-PPO-PEO triblock diols and are especially described in the abovementioned patent applications.
  • Diisocyanates that may be mentioned include aliphatic diisocyanates, for instance ethylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, decamethylene diisocyanate, and also methylene-4 , 4 ' -bis (dicyclohexyl) diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 4 , 4 ' -diisocyanate, xylylene diiso- cyanate, phenylene diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate and dimethyl diphenylene diisocyanate.
  • aliphatic diisocyanates for instance ethylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, decamethylene diisocyanate, and also methylene-4 , 4 ' -bis (dicyclohexyl) diisocyanate, diphenylmethane 4 , 4 ' -diisocyanate, xylylene diiso- cyanate, phenylene
  • PEO-PPO-PEO triblock diols used may correspond to formula (I) below:
  • the polyurethane may comprise urea and/or allophanate groups, as described in patent applications WO 03/106 536 and US-A-5 702 717.
  • the polycondensation may also be performed in the presence of other reactive compounds, for instance diols comprising one or more carboxylic acid groups or a tertiary amine group (especially aminomethyl) or alternatively such as monohydroxylated polyethylene oxides.
  • the polycondensation may especially be performed in the presence of water.
  • the polyurethane may be linear or branched.
  • multiblock copolymers comprising a poly-N- isopropylacrylamide block and n-butyl acrylate randomly distributed and a polyethylene glycol block, such as those described in patent application EP-A-I 407 791.
  • the product sold under the trade name TGP-20 by the company Mebiol may be used in particular.
  • copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid such as those described in patents US 6 645 476 and US 6 689 856, and also the salts thereof (in particular sodium or ammonium salts) and of a macromonomer of an ester of (meth) acrylic acid and of alkoxylated C 2 -C 4 alkyl (in particular ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) (especially containing 1 to 500, more preferentially from 3 to 50 and better still 7 to 30 alkoxylated alkyl units) .
  • EO ethylene oxide
  • PO propylene oxide
  • Such macromonomers may also be derived from amino EO/PO statistical copolymers, especially mono-, di- or triamino copolymers of the Jeffamine type from Huntsman, and especially Jeffamine XTJ-507 (M-2005) , Jeffamine D-2000 and Jeffamine XTJ-509 (or T-3000) .
  • Such macromonomers may also be derived from EO/PO statistical copolymers with OH end groups, such as those sold under the name Polyglycols P41 and BIl by Clariant .
  • AMPS polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • copolymers such as those described in patent application EP 1 307 501, consisting of a polyacrylic acid (PAA) backbone bearing side chains or grafts consisting of units with an LCST chosen from: (i) those of the type such as statistical copolymers of ethylene oxide (EO) and of propylene oxide (PO) , represented by the formula: (EO) 1n (PO) n in which m is an integer ranging from 1 to 40 and preferably from 2 to 20, and n is an integer ranging from 10 to 60 and preferably from 20 to 50; the molar mass of these units with an LCST preferably being from 500 to 5300 g/mol and more preferentially from 1500 to 4000 g/mol;
  • PAA polyacrylic acid
  • PO propylene oxide
  • poly-N-isopropylacrylamide polymers whose molar mass is preferably from 1000 g/mol to 500 000 g/mol and more preferentially from 2000 to 50 000 g/mol.
  • the content of heat-induced gelling polymer in the compositions according to the invention ranges preferably from 0.01% to 20% and better still from 0.1% to 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic UV- screening agents in accordance with the invention are chosen especially from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates,- salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; methylenebis (hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche, Isopropyl methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Haarmann and Reimer, Cinoxate,
  • para-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives PABA, Ethyl PABA,
  • Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507 by ISP,
  • Glyceryl PABA PEG-25 PABA sold under the name Uvinul P25 by BASF.
  • Phenylbenzimidazole derivatives Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer . Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
  • Triazine derivatives bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul Tl50 by BASF,
  • Neo Heliopan MA Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer.
  • Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions for instance Polysilicone-15 , sold under the trade name Parsol SLX by Hoffmann LaRoche
  • the preferential additional organic photoprotective agents are chosen from:
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise inorganic UV-screening agents.
  • These agents are chosen from pigments, with a mean primary particle size generally of between 5 nm and 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm, of coated or uncoated metal oxides, for instance titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form) , iron oxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide pigments, which are all UV-photoprotective agents that are well known per se .
  • Such standard coating agents are moreover alumina and/or aluminium stearate.
  • Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent applications EP 518 772 and EP 518 773.
  • the pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or of aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate .
  • surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64 such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium,
  • silicones are organosilicon polymers or oligomers of linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consist essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are linked together via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond) , optionally substituted hydrocarbon-based radicals being directly attached via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms .
  • sicones also includes the silanes required for their preparation, in particular alkyl silanes.
  • the silicones used for coating the pigments that are suitable for the present invention are preferably chosen from the group containing alkyl silanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrogenosiloxanes . Even more preferentially, the silicones are chosen from the group containing octyltrimethylsilane, polydimeth- ylsiloxanes and polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes .
  • the metal oxide pigments may have been treated with other surface agents, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina, silica, aluminium compounds or silicon compounds, or mixtures thereof.
  • coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides that have been coated: - with silica, such as the product Sunveil from the company Ikeda,
  • silica and iron oxide such as the product Sunveil F from the company Ikeda
  • silica and alumina such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA and Microtitanium
  • titanium oxide pigments treated with a silicone are preferably TiO 2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is between 25 and 40 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name T 805 by the company Degussa Silices, TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 21 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name 70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3 by the company Cardre, anatase/rutile TiO 2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane and for which the mean size of the elementary particles is 25 nm, such as the product sold under the trade name Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobic by the company Color Techniques .
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Tayca under the trade names
  • Titanium Oxide PW by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart ; those sold under the name Nanox by the company Elementis ;
  • Nanogard WCD 2025 those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 by the company Nanophase Technologies .
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • Daitopersion ZN-30 and Daitopersion ZN-50 by the company Daito those sold under the name Daitopersion ZN-30 and Daitopersion ZN-50 by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane/oxyethylenated polydimethyl- siloxane, containing 30% or 50% of nanozinc oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrogenosiloxane) ;
  • Nanox Gel TN those sold under the name Nanox Gel TN by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at a concentration of 55% in Ci 2 -Ci 5 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate) .
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments are sold under the name Colloidal Cerium Oxide by the company Rhone- Poulenc.
  • the uncoated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2002 (FE 45B) , Nanogard Iron FE 45 BL AQ, Nanogard FE 45R AQ and Nanogard WCD 2006 (FE 45R) or by the company Mitsubishi under the name TY-220.
  • the coated iron oxide pigments are sold, for example, by the company Arnaud under the names Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN) , Nanogard WCD 2009 (FE 45B 556) , Nanogard FE 45 BL 345 and Nanogard FE 45 BL or by the company BASF under the name Transparent Iron Oxide.
  • metal oxides especially of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the silica-coated equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, sold by the company Ikeda under the name Sunveil A, and also the alumina, silica and silicone-coated mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide, such as the product M 261 sold by the company Kemira, or the alumina, silica and glycerol -coated mixture of titanium dioxide
  • hydrophilic metal oxide pigments are used, and more particularly hydrophilic titanium oxide or zinc oxide pigments, or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic preferably means particles which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25 0 C, to a mass concentration equal to 1%, allow the production of a solution that is macroscopically homogeneous to the naked eye .
  • hydrophilic metal oxide particles that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
  • titanium oxide particles treated with at least one coating agent such as: silica and alumina, such as the products Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA and Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA from the company Tayca, and the products Tioveil Fin, Tioveil OP, Tioveil MOTG and Tioveil IPM from the company Tioxide, the product Mirasun TIW 60 from the company Rhodia, the product Sunveil PW-6030A-20 from the company CCIC, and the product Solaveil CT-10 W from the company Uniqema,- sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W from the company Tayca; - alumina and glycerol, such as the product UVT-M212 from the company Kemira; - alumina, silica and alginic acid, for instance
  • Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B or Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 B by the company Degussa under the name P 25, by the company Wacker under the name Transparent Titanium Oxide PW, by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the name UFTR, by the company Tomen under the name ITS, and by the company Tioxide under the name Tioveil AQ; (iii) untreated zinc oxide particles, for instance those sold under the name Z-Cote by the company Sunsmart ; those sold under the name Nanox by the company Elementis;
  • Nanogard WCD 2025 those sold under the name Nanogard WCD 2025 by the company Nanophase Technologies;
  • Treated or untreated titanium oxide particles which are amorphous or in crystalline form (rutile and/or anatase) , are most particularly preferred.
  • the organic and/or mineral agents for absorbing UV radiation are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one wetting agent whose function is to facilitate the wetting of the skin by significantly reducing the surface tension of the continuous phase of the said composition.
  • wetting agent preferably means any compound which, when introduced into an aqueous solution at 0.05% (by weight), makes it possible to reduce the surface tension of water to a value of less than 35 mN/m and preferably less than 30 mN/m.
  • the wetting agents in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from water-soluble silicones comprising at least one terminal or pendent monovalent polyoxyalkylene group, and which, when introduced at
  • 0.05% by weight into an aqueous solution are able to reduce the surface tension of water to a value of less than 35 mN/m and preferably less than 30 mN/m.
  • the wetting agents in accordance with the invention are more preferentially chosen from water-soluble silicones comprising at least one polyoxyalkylene group of general formula (a) below
  • radicals R 2 which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, aryl and aralkyl radicals containing not more than 10 carbon atoms,- some of the radicals R 2 may also additionally contain an ethylcyclohexylene monoxide group of formula and are in low proportion in the polysiloxane chain;
  • - p ranges from 0 to 150, preferably from 0 to 100 and more preferentially from 0 to 30;
  • polyether group PE has the formula (b) below
  • x ranges from 1 to 8 and preferably from 2 to 4 and is more preferentially equal to 3; y is greater than 0; z is greater than or equal to 0; the values of y and z are such that the total molecular weight of the polyoxyalkylene portion of the polyether group PE ranges from 200 to 10 000 and more preferentially from 350 to 4000;
  • R 3 denotes hydrogen, a Ci-C 8 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 8 acyl group .
  • polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene units may be randomly distributed along the polyether chain PE or distributed in blocks, or alternatively distributed both in blocks and randomly.
  • the radicals R 2 are chosen from Ci-C 6 lower alkyls, for instance methyl, ethyl, butyl, hexyl , phenyl and benzyl. More particularly, the radicals R 2 are chosen from Ci-C 4 lower alkyls and even more particularly denote methyl.
  • the radicals R 3 are chosen from Ci-C 4 lower alkyls and even more particularly denote methyl.
  • the number of oxyethylene units in the group PE should be sufficient to produce a cloud point in water of between 25 and 9O 0 C and more preferentially from 40 to 7O 0 C.
  • the water-soluble silicones of formula (a) may be obtained according to the process described in document US-A-4 847 398.
  • water-soluble silicones of formula (a) that are preferably used are those of formula (a') below:
  • Such silicones are sold, for example, by the company OSI under the trade names Silwet L-720 ® , Silwet L-7002 ® , Silwet L-7600 ® , Silwet L-7604 ® , Silwet L-7605 ® , Silwet L-7607 ® , Silwet 1614, Silwet L-7657 ® , Silwet L-7200 ® , Silwet L-7230, Silsoft 305, Silsoft 820 and Silsoft 880, or by the company Goldschmidt under tthhee ttrraaddeee nnaammee;s Tegowet 260, Tegowet 500, Tegowet 505 and Tegowet 510 ®
  • the table below collates the surface tension values at 25 0 C of aqueous solutions comprising 0.05% (by weight) of various wetting agents.
  • the wetting agent (s) is N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl-N-(2-aminoethyl)-2-aminoethyl
  • aqueous compositions of the invention may especially be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion (multiple emulsion) .
  • compositions of the invention may contain any additive usually used in cosmetics and will find applications in the fields of care, makeup and antisun products .
  • aqueous compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, active agents, fillers, polymers, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics and/or dermatology.
  • standard cosmetic adjuvants chosen especially from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers, emollients, silicones, antifoams, fragrances, preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or
  • Hydrophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol products (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate/C10-C30- alkylacrylate copolymer) ; the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ethoxylated alkyl dimethyl -meta-isopropenyl benzyl isocyanate terpolymer (INCI name: Polyacrylate- 3), for instance the product sold by Amerchol under the name Viscophobe DB 1000; polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/ Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acryl- amide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/isohexa- decane/polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic
  • Lipophilic thickeners that may be mentioned include synthetic polymers such as poly (Ci 0 -C 30 alkyl acrylates) sold under the name Doresco IPA 13-1 by the company Landec, or modified clays such as hectorite and its derivatives, for instance the products sold under the name Bentone .
  • the organic solvents may be chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents, lipophilic organic solvents and amphiphilic solvents, or mixtures thereof .
  • hydrophilic organic solvents examples include linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyethylene glycols containing from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides,- polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol; monoalkyl or dialkyl isosorbides in which the alkyl groups containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, for instance dimethyl isosorbide,- glycol ethers, for instance diethylene glycol monomethyl ether or monoethyl ether and propylene glycol ethers, for instance dipropylene glycol methyl ether.
  • linear or branched monohydric alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms for instance ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
  • Amphiphilic organic solvents that may be mentioned include polypropylene glycol (PPG) derivatives such as fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycol, and derivatives of PPG and of fatty alcohols, for instance PPG-23 oleyl ether, and PPG-36 oleate.
  • PPG polypropylene glycol
  • lipophilic organic solvents examples include fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate or alkyl benzoates .
  • Preserving agents include para- hydroxybenzoic acid esters, also known as Parabens ® (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben and propyl paraben) , phenoxyethanol , formaldehyde generators, for instance imidazolidinylurea or diazolidinylurea, chlorhexidine digluconate, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyltrimethylammonium bromides such as myristyl- trimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: myrtrimonium bromide) , dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyl- trimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof such as the mixture sold under the name Cetrimide ® by the company FEF Chemicals.
  • the preserving agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content
  • fillers that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include pigments; silica powder; talc,- polyamide particles and especially those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders,- powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially of crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch, such as the starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by the company National Starch; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrap,- polymethyl methacrylate powders such as those sold under the name Micropearl M 100 by the company Matsumoto; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and especially the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by
  • compositions in accordance with the invention are generally oil-in-water simple emulsions or water-in- oil-in-water triple emulsions.
  • the emulsifying surfactants are chosen in an appropriate manner depending on the chosen type of emulsion.
  • the emulsion is a triple emulsion, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the outer phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
  • the dispersed oily phase may preferably range from 5% to 60% by weight and better still from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the simple emulsion.
  • the W/0 primary emulsion may represent, for example, from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 60% by weight and better still from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the triple emulsion.
  • the inner aqueous phase of the W/0 primary emulsion preferably represents from 5% to 90%, better still from 30% to 90% and even better still from 40% to 80% of the total weight of the primary emulsion.
  • the emulsifying surfactants are generally present in a minimum concentration of 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions are preferably used in proportions ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • emulsifiers that may be used for the preparation of the 0/W emulsions
  • examples that may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylen- ated) polyols, for example polyethylene glycol stearates, for instance PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid esters of oxyalkylenated sorbitan comprising, for example, from 20 to 100 EO, for example those sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by the company Uniqema,- oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypro- pylenated) fatty alkyl ethers,- alkoxylated or non- alkoxylated sugar esters, for instance sucrose stearate such as PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate,-
  • Coemulsifiers such as, for example, fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol , 2-butyloctanol , 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol, or fatty acids, may be added to these emulsifiers.
  • fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol , 2-butyloctanol , 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol, or fatty acids
  • the emulsifiers may be chosen, for example, from the group comprising alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty alcohols, alkoxylated and especially ethoxylated fatty esters, glycerolated esters or ethers (for instance polyglyceryl-4 isostearate) , fatty acid salts such as aluminium stearate, sugar-based surfactants such as methylglucose isostearate, polyolefin-based polymeric surfactants and silicone emulsifiers, and mixtures thereof .
  • the apolar part is chosen from polyolefins such as ethylene, propylene, 1-butene, isobutene, 1-pentene, 2- methyl-1-butene, 3 -methyl -1-butene, 1-hexene, 1- heptene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-undecene, 1-dodecene, 1- tridecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-pentadecene, 1-hexadecene, 1-heptadecene and 1-octadecene polymers and/or copolymers .
  • the polymer chains may or may not be hydrogenated.
  • the polar part of these polymeric surfactants may be anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric. It consists, for example, of acrylic, polyalkylene glycol or polyalkyleneimine derivatives.
  • the polymeric surfactants containing a carboxylic acid polar part are derived, for example, from the reaction of a polyolefin with carboxylic acids such as maleic acid, maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid and aconitic acid.
  • the polar part consists of succinic acid or anhydride, ester or amide derivatives thereof, the corresponding salts of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal organic ions, or alternatively of polyoxyethylene.
  • the polyolefin-based polymeric surfactants are also chosen from the polyolefin derivatives of succinic acid described in patents US 4 234 435, US 4 708 753, US 5 129 972, US 4 931 110, GB 2 156 799 and US 4 919 179.
  • the polyolefin part may consist of hydrogenated or non- hydrogenated polyisobutylene .
  • the succinic acid or anhydride may be modified with alcohols, amines, alkanolamines or polyols, or alternatively may be in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal ions or organic ions, for instance diethanolammonium or triethanolammonium ions.
  • polyisobutylenes containing modified succinic end groups such as the products sold under the names L2724, L2721, L2722, OS156565 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol, or Chemcinnate 2000 sold by the company Chemron.
  • a polymeric surfactant that may be used in the invention is the product of the reaction of maleic anhydride with polyisobutylene, such as Glissopal SA sold by BASF.
  • the silicone emulsifiers may be chosen, for example, from the group comprising dimethicone copolyols, alkyldimethicone copolyols possibly comprising heteroatoms such as fluorine, and mixtures containing them, for example the mixture of polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt, cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C by the company Dow Corning.
  • the emulsifier content in the primary emulsion generally ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the primary emulsion.
  • compositions in accordance with the invention generally comprise at least one oily phase that contains at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil.
  • oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 0 C) .
  • oils that may be used in the composition of the invention it is possible to use, for example, hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene (or squalane) ; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or alternatively oils of plant origin, for instance sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesameseed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; synthetic oils,- silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature; fluoro oils, such as partially hydrocarbon-
  • the oily phase may also comprise one or more fatty substances chosen, for example, from fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol), fatty acids (stearic acid) or waxes (paraffin, polyethylene wax, carnauba wax or beeswax) .
  • the oily phase may contain lipophilic gelling agents, surfactants or organic or mineral particles.
  • the oily phase may preferably represent from 2% to 70% by weight of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase of the said emulsion may comprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. MoI. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008) .
  • the oil-in-water emulsions may comprise only 1% by weight or less of emulsifying surfactants, and may even be free of emulsifying surfactants, while at the same time being stable on storage.
  • hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners such as those of patent EP 864 320, amphiphilic polymers such as those mentioned in patent EP 1 093 796 or in patent application WO 02/44231, and solid particles (Pickering-type emulsions) such as the emulsions mentioned in patent applications WO 98/42300, WO 98/42301, EP 98/7001, EP 98/7002, EP 98/7003, EP 98/7004, EP 98/7005, EP 98/7006, EP 98/7007, EP 98/7008, WO 2000/07548, WO 2000/07549 and EP 99/2233.
  • emulsion stabilizers that will be used more particularly are isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid polymers, and in particular phthalate/sulfoiso- phthalate/glycol copolymers (for example diethylene glycol/phthalate/isophthalate/1, 4-cyclohexanedimethanol) sold under the name Eastman AQ Polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
  • Eastman AQ Polymer AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S and AQ48 Ultra
  • compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of cosmetic products for treating the skin, the lips, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and/or the scalp, especially care products, antisun products and makeup products .
  • composition according to the invention may constitute a skincare product, especially for the face, the neck, the contour of the eyes or the body,- or a makeup product such as a complexion product (especially a foundation), a concealer product, an antisun product or a skin-cleansing product.
  • a makeup product such as a complexion product (especially a foundation), a concealer product, an antisun product or a skin-cleansing product.
  • the composition according to the invention will preferentially be an antisun product .
  • compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as care and/or antisun products for the face and/or the body. They may optionally be conditioned in aerosol form and may be in the form of mousse or spray.
  • compositions according to the invention in the form of vaporizable fluid lotions in accordance with the invention are applied to the skin or the hair in the form of fine particles by means of pressurization devices.
  • the devices in accordance with the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and comprise non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and also aerosol pumps using compressed air as propellant. The latter devices are described in patents US 4 077 441 and US 4 850 517 (which form an integral part of the content of the description) .
  • compositions conditioned in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants, for instance hydrofluoro compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane or trichlorofluoromethane . They are preferably present in amounts ranging from 15% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a simple test consists in drawing a 30 ⁇ m film of the fluid composition, at 35 0 C, over a quartz plate, leaving it to dry and observing it by microscopy, under UV.
  • the compositions of the invention containing at least one water-soluble heat-induced gelling polymer, are characterized by a perfectly homogeneous film. This homogeneity is reflected by the uniformity of UV absorption materialized by a dark image, without defects (holes (white) in the film or concentrated areas (black) of UV-screening agents) . Examples
  • composition below comprises a water-soluble heat- induced gelling polymer with a block structure composed of a block based on randomly distributed N- isopropylacrylamide and n-butyl acrylate and of a 0 polyethylene glycol block.
  • This polymer has at 5% in water a gel point equal to 15 0 C, and gives a transparent gel above this temperature.
  • This water-soluble heat-induced gelling polymer was 5 formulated in a fluid screening oil-in-water emulsion.
  • Examples 5 and 6 water-soluble heat- induced gelling polymer based on a copolymer of AMPS and of a methacrylic acid ester macromonomer and a statistical EO/PO copolymer
  • the heat-induced gelling polymer used in this example is a copolymer of polyacrylamido-2-methylpropane- sulfonic acid (AMPS) neutralized with aqueous ammonia (40% by weight) and of a polyether methacrylate macromonomer (60%) in which the polyether is a PEO/PPO statistical copolymer comprising 5.5 mol of ethylene oxide (EO) units and 31 mol of propylene oxide units.
  • the polyether methacrylate macromonomer is obtained according to the Standard techniques by esterification of methacrylic acid and of the polyether as defined above manufactured by the company Laporte under the trade name A286.
  • This copolymer is obtained by precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol of AMPS and of the "polyether methacrylate" macromonomer described above according to the synthetic process described in patent application EP 1 069 142.
  • This polymer has at 5% in water a gel point equal to 15 0 C, and gives a transparent gel above this temperature.
  • This water-soluble heat-induced gelling polymer was formulated in a fluid screening oil-in- water emulsion.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique fluide servant à protéger des matières kératiniques et plus particulièrement la peau et les cheveux, des effets nocifs du rayonnement UV, comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable : a) au moins un polymère gélifiant soluble dans l'eau dont l'action est induite par la chaleur ; b) au moins une phase aqueuse continue ; c) au moins une phase huileuse en concentration allant de 1 % à 70 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition ; et d) au moins un agent organique faisant écran aux UV. L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'au moins un polymère gélifiant soluble dans l'eau dont l'action est induite par la chaleur dans une composition cosmétique telle que définie ci-dessus, afin d'améliorer l'efficacité photoprotectrice. L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'au moins un polymère gélifiant soluble dans l'eau dont l'action est induite par la chaleur dans une composition cosmétique telle que définie ci-dessus, afin d'améliorer l'homogénéité de l'étalement sur des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, les lèvres, les cheveux, le cuir chevelu, les cils, les sourcils et les ongles.
PCT/EP2007/056136 2006-07-13 2007-06-20 Composition cosmétique fluide comprenant un polymère gélifiant soluble dans l'eau dont l'action est induite par la chaleur, une phase aqueuse continue, une phase huileuse et un agent organique faisant écran aux uv WO2008006677A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0652979 2006-07-13
FR0652979A FR2903598A1 (fr) 2006-07-13 2006-07-13 Composition cosmetique aqueuse fluide filtrante comprenant au moins un polymere thermogelifiant et au moins un agent absorbant les radiations uv
US83324306P 2006-07-26 2006-07-26
US60/833,243 2006-07-26

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JP2011528022A (ja) * 2008-07-16 2011-11-10 ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー．ブイ． 化粧品組成物
WO2012139449A1 (fr) * 2011-04-12 2012-10-18 L'oreal Émulsion d'écran solaire contenant un homopolymère réticulé d'acide (méth)acrylamido(alkyle en c1 -c4)sulfonique et d'acide alkylsulfonique et un homopolymère d'acide acrylique au moins partiellement neutralisé
WO2012139246A2 (fr) * 2011-04-12 2012-10-18 L'oréal Émulsion d'écran solaire contenant deux copolymères amphiphiles spécifiques et au moins un filtre uv organique lipophile
TWI452051B (zh) * 2009-12-30 2014-09-11 私立中原大學 抗生物結垢非離子型－兩性離子型共聚物
DE102015223260A1 (de) * 2015-11-25 2017-06-01 Beiersdorf Ag Titandioxid-haltiges Sonnenschutzmittel
CN108929664A (zh) * 2018-08-16 2018-12-04 广汉市福客科技有限公司 一种无泡型清洗剂及其制备方法与应用
US10842729B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2020-11-24 Living Proof, Inc. Color protectant compositions
US10987300B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2021-04-27 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
CN114957656A (zh) * 2022-07-01 2022-08-30 济南大学 一种兼具lcst及ucst的多刺激响应性荧光聚乙烯亚胺的制备方法
US11622929B2 (en) 2016-03-08 2023-04-11 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions

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JP2011528022A (ja) * 2008-07-16 2011-11-10 ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー．ブイ． 化粧品組成物
US20110160392A1 (en) * 2009-12-29 2011-06-30 Chung-Yuan Christian Univesity Antibiofouling Nonionic-Zwitterionic Copolymer
US8288472B2 (en) * 2009-12-29 2012-10-16 Chung-Yuan Christian University Antibiofouling nonionic-zwitterionic copolymer
TWI452051B (zh) * 2009-12-30 2014-09-11 私立中原大學 抗生物結垢非離子型－兩性離子型共聚物
WO2012139246A2 (fr) * 2011-04-12 2012-10-18 L'oréal Émulsion d'écran solaire contenant deux copolymères amphiphiles spécifiques et au moins un filtre uv organique lipophile
WO2012139246A3 (fr) * 2011-04-12 2012-12-06 L'oréal Émulsion d'écran solaire contenant deux copolymères amphiphiles spécifiques et au moins un filtre uv organique lipophile
CN103442688A (zh) * 2011-04-12 2013-12-11 莱雅公司 含有(甲基)丙烯酰氨基(c1-c4)烷基磺酸的交联均聚物和至少部分中和的丙烯酸的均聚物的遮光乳液
CN103442686A (zh) * 2011-04-12 2013-12-11 莱雅公司 含有两种特定的两亲共聚物和至少亲脂有机紫外线过滤剂的遮光乳液
WO2012139449A1 (fr) * 2011-04-12 2012-10-18 L'oreal Émulsion d'écran solaire contenant un homopolymère réticulé d'acide (méth)acrylamido(alkyle en c1 -c4)sulfonique et d'acide alkylsulfonique et un homopolymère d'acide acrylique au moins partiellement neutralisé
CN103442686B (zh) * 2011-04-12 2016-12-07 莱雅公司 含有两种特定的两亲共聚物和至少亲脂有机紫外线过滤剂的遮光乳液
DE102015223260A1 (de) * 2015-11-25 2017-06-01 Beiersdorf Ag Titandioxid-haltiges Sonnenschutzmittel
US11622929B2 (en) 2016-03-08 2023-04-11 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
US10842729B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2020-11-24 Living Proof, Inc. Color protectant compositions
US10987300B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2021-04-27 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
US11707426B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2023-07-25 Living Proof, Inc. Color protectant compositions
CN108929664A (zh) * 2018-08-16 2018-12-04 广汉市福客科技有限公司 一种无泡型清洗剂及其制备方法与应用
CN114957656A (zh) * 2022-07-01 2022-08-30 济南大学 一种兼具lcst及ucst的多刺激响应性荧光聚乙烯亚胺的制备方法

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