WO2006024845A2

WO2006024845A2 - Garment manufacturing process and method and garment features

Info

Publication number: WO2006024845A2
Application number: PCT/GB2005/003362
Authority: WO
Inventors: Bernice Bay Ning Pan
Original assignee: Bernice Bay Ning Pan
Priority date: 2004-09-02
Filing date: 2005-08-26
Publication date: 2006-03-09
Also published as: TW200621179A; GB0706303D0; CN101111169A; GB0419523D0; GB2433812A; WO2006024845A3

Abstract

There is disclosed a system for fastening together different pieces of an article of clothing so as to enable a customer to select a specific clothing style and design by selection of different garment pieces. The fastening creates a garment seam equivalent to a sewn seam yet provides non-permanent closures for garment assemblage and thus allows a garment to be created specifically to the customer's wish. There is also disclosed a system for producing garments from a plurality of different garment pieces and a simplified design and production schedule.

Description

GARMENT MANUFACTURING PROCESS AND METHOD AND GARMENT FEATURES

The present invention relates to a garment design and manufacturing system and method, to garment features and to fastenings for garments.

Due to increasingly diversified demand and fierce global competition, the fashion clothing industries have been scrambling to make adjustments in order to survive the challenging climate that is set to continue. Problems are identified in the current fashion industries, where the key purpose of piping garments through conceptualisation to consumption, at the right time and with the right requirements for end customers, sees substantial inefficiency and ineffectiveness. This is particularly evident in the area of design phase in the supply chain upstream, typically between process stages and between handling parties where similar problems recur season after season. Specifically they include: a) a messy communication interface, b) duplicate information generation and data re-entry, c) blind and unstructured decision making (such as guessing what customers might want in 6 to 12 months time in garment styles, preferences, quantity etc.). Existing processes take between 14 to 18 weeks from generation of design concepts to reach production floors and typically include the following generic steps, shown in Figures 1 to 3. Figure 1 shows an example of a typical garment designers' process, Figure 2 shows an example of typical garment manufacturers and textiles suppliers' processes, while Figure 3 shows a typical customers' process.

Meeting the deadline for each process step and the ultimate deadline of seasonal time to market depends on the internal coordination of the designers' activity steps

(described below). It also depends on the external dynamics with the textiles suppliers and garment manufacturers at required periods in the time line. Key dynamics also have their typical and effective start and finish points. The sequence diagram shown in Figure 4 models the typical seasonal process of supplying the fashion garments, with textiles suppliers, designers/brand houses, and garment manufacturers as three use cases. Each object has a time line as a condition with the common reference of calendar weeks for main activities taking place. The duration of each activity segment carried out by the different use cases is denoted with arrow directions and descriptions for input and/or output between inter-related process segments. The input/output transferred between the use cases are typically in the form of information or sample products (for example fabric and garments). On the garment side, there is a number of disadvantages with existing fastening systems, in particular the following.

zippers — nylon coil open end Nylon coil zipper is the softest, finest, and most flexible amongst the three types of zipper teeth available (namely metal, plastic, and nylon). It has the highest and widest application in women swear dresses, skirts, tops and so on, although most applications are with closed ends zippers. This means that the two sides of the zipper are attached at one end even when unfastened, thus it does not allow complete separation of the two pieces of fabric to which it is sewn. The smallest size is no. 2.5 (that is 2.5mm across the total width of the zipper coil teeth when fastened).

Open end zippers all have a box (minimum 5mm x 5mm x 3mm) at the bottom end of the tape to house the two pins, of which one can be pulled out to separate the two tapes completely (thus the two pieces of fabric they are sewn onto). In addition, it has reinforcement at both ends of the tape, which stiffens the tape in the width direction, making it uncomfortable if used in an area of clothing which presses against joints (such as knees, shoulders). i

In terms of the fabrication and assemblage of zippers, open end ones take at least 9 work steps to complete, while closed end ones take at least 12. Most work steps require an operator's supervision even if they are automated machine processes. Furthermore, as changeover of product runs in zipper styles, colours, lengths and so on are frequent therefore the manufacturing process in all is labour intensive.

In terms of the application of zippers in clothing manufacture, it is a work step that requires longest time and highest skill. The sewing of zippers to fabric pieces requires first changing of the sewing machine presser foot to a left zipper foot and then a right zipper foot (or vice versa), or higher machinist skill level if using a standard foot. This is due to the difficulty in sewing and manoeuvring closely to the nylon teeth edge that is raised above the flat pieces of fabric and woven tape, which is required in most cases of zipper usage in clothing, particularly in women swear, and in the use of invisible zippers. Secondly, it requires the perfect alignment of two pieces of fabric and tension of sewing while each is being sewn independently with one side of the zipper. Thirdly, it is not possible for this straight line stitch to be a smooth continuous sewing step, as the machinist would always have to stop to move the puller/slider through when it hits the presser foot. Fourthly, the zipper together with its woven tapes do not turn easily along curved lines and edges, making its usage limited in clothing both it function and aesthetics.

ziplocs - plastic close end

Ziploc fasteners are made of plastics with or without sliders. The ones without sliders can be snapped on together. They are typically used for some form of bags and always has a closed end. There has been no application for clothing due to the low level of heat resistance and flexibility in the material property of plastics used is these fasteners. The mechanism of the Ziploc type fasteners consists of a male and a female part that fit together lengthways. The two parts have strong resistance against sideways pulling forces but weak resistance against shearing and tearing forces, as well as lengthways shifting/sliding forces. Currently the only way of resisting against shearing and tearing while securing its closure is in its fixed ends on both sides of its length, sealed to align with the form of the bag shape.

Snap tapes (poppers)

Snap tapes are typically made of two woven tapes with plastic or metal snap buttons (male and female parts) injection moulded or clipped in series on to the length of woven tapes. The snap tape typically has minimum 8mm button parts with 4cm gap between the distances of the snap buttons. Therefore the snap tape does not produce continuous closure even when all buttons of the two parts are snap-fitted together. Furthermore, its thickness, diameter, the gap between the buttons and the minimum width of the tape does not allow for finer parts or for curves and turnings of garment assemblage due to the straight grain warp and weft of the woven tape.

Hooks and loops (Velcro®)

The Velcro® hook and loop tapes are commonly used as closure to opening or in attaching two separate pieces of fabric in outerwear (such as coat pockets), accessories (such as baggage compartments), and tent fixture (such as edge sealing). The hook strip has continuous rows of nylon wire hook piles, and the loop strip has raised polyester yarn loops densely woven into the tape strip. The problem with the Velcro®, first, is its gradual decline in security for its closure, due to both the fatigue of the nylon wire loosing its hook shape over time, and the polyester yarn loops being repeatedly ripped by the hooks when closures formed by the two parts are re-opened. Secondly, when used against most fabric (which is its widest application), the hook strip damages the surface of fabric due to its roughness, and it traps hairs, fibres, and filth in its piles that detracts from its ability to grip onto the loop strip, thus also reducing its closure security, in addition to the unattractive appearance. It is also unsuitable for the wider application of clothing other than outerwear or workwear due to its rough texture and its thickness required to accommodate the mechanisms of the hook and loop height.

The present invention seeks to provide an improved garment manufacturing system and method, to garment features and to fastenings for garments.

According to an aspect of the present invention, there is provided a flexible fastener for clothing including a fixing member for fixing to a fabric or other material and a fastening element integral with the fixing member, the fastening member including a gripper portion which is able to engage the gripper portion of a second identical flexible fastener such that the two gripper portions at least partially grip around one another.

The advantage of such a system is that the identical fasteners can engage one another without the need for a fastening actuator, such as a slider or the like. Preferably, the gripper portion provides a surface able to provide a resistive force in a direction substantially away from the fixing member. In the preferred embodiment, the gripper portion includes one or more walls able to provide a resistive force in all directions.

The fixing member may be a flange to which fabric can be sewn or otherwise secured. Advantageously, the fixing member extends substantially the whole length of the fastener.

In the preferred embodiment, the fastener is formed from silicone.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided an item for clothing, including at least one fastener fastenable to another item of clothing, the fastening element being formed from silicone rubber. Preferably, the flexible fastener includes a fixing member for fixing to a fabric or other material and a fastening element integral with the fixing member, the fastening member including a gripper portion which is able to engage the gripper portion of a second identical flexible fastener such that the two gripper portions at least partially grip around one another.

Advantageously, the gripper portion provides a surface able to provide a resistive force in a direction substantially away from the fixing member. In the preferred embodiment, the gripper portion includes one or more walls able to provide a resistive force in all directions.

The fixing member may be a flange to which fabric can be sewn of otherwise secured. Advantageously, the fixing member extends substantially the whole length of the fastener. According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a releasable fastener that works as a detachable machine fell seam.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a garment including at least two portions provided with a flexible fastener as herein specified.

According to another aspect of the present invention, there is provided a system for producing garments including a plurality of different and a plurality of equivalent garment pieces each forming part of an article of clothing, each of said pieces being provided with a flexible fastener as herein specified so as to allow for different garment pieces to be fastened together to form an article of clothing.

Preferably, the plurality of equivalent garment pieces differ in design and/or colour and/or texture.

The system preferably includes means for selecting and/or designing individual garment pieces and means for communicating such selection and/or design to a manufacturer for manufacture thereof.

Embodiments of the present invention are described below, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a typical prior art garment designer's processes;

Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of typical prior art garment manufacturers and textile suppliers' processes;

Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of a typical prior art customers' processes; Figure 4 is a sequence diagram of the existing fashion industry upstream processes from design to pre-production; Figure 5 is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of a preferred embodiment of fastening system;

Figure 6 is an isometric view of the system of Figure 5;

Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of an embodiment of process involving communication activities between a garment designer and a textiles supplier;

Figure 8 is a schematic diagram of an embodiment of process involving communication activities for the information provision/transfer between a garment designer and a garment manufacturer;

Figure 9 is a communication interfaces diagram; Figure 10 is an integrated decision points diagram;

Figure 11 is a flow diagram of a preferred embodiment of system from garment design to retail sale; ,

Figure 12 is a schematic diagram of a preferred embodiment of data system component; Figure 13 is a schematic diagram of an embodiment of garment architecture;

Figure 14 is a schematic diagram of an embodiment of collective activity map;

Figure 15 shows an example of garment assemblage and variation schema;

Figure 16 shows an example of product information for garment fabric; '

Figure 17 shows an example of product information for garment colour; Figure 18 shows an example of product information for garment style (silhouette);

Figures 19 and 20 show examples of customer information for logging customer profiles;

Figure 21 shows in isometric view another embodiment of fastening element;

Figure 22 shows in longitudinal cross-section the embodiment of fastener of Figure 21 ;

Figure 23 shows section and axonometric views of another fastening device that consists of male and female parts; and

Figure 24 shows plan view of the fastening device in Figure 23 in series affixed to the fastener tape. Referring to Figures 5 and 6, the preferred embodiment provides a releasable fastener that works as a detachable machine fell seam. It consists of first and second parts, each a flexible substrate and a mirror image of the other. The two parts can be push-fit together without a slider. There are two integral components to each part of the fastener: the channel and the tape.

Each channel has the section shape of a 'G' (see Figures 5 and 6) at its main channel part. When fitted together, the first part is configured up-side-down from the second part lengthways, using the 'G' shape sections to grip the second part. The two parts are strong when under sideways forces, and separate under shearing forces.

Each part is preferably made from 100% silicone rubber with material property of shore 80, 9 Newton/mm² tensile strength, 17 Newton/mm² tear strength, 375% elongation, and up to 300⁰C direct contact heat resistance of up to 2 minutes with no flame when burnt. It is sound both for ironing and machine washing and it is non-toxic and skin friendly.

The person skilled in the art will appreciate that other forms of silicone could also be used.

The fastener requires only one die due to the identical shapes of its first and second parts and is extruded to shape, with a post curing process required at 600⁰C for ¹A of a minute. ,

The fastener enables full open-end detachability of two fastener parts. It can be applied to every garment style at main seam junctions as so that garment parts (elements) are fully detachable. The principle to this application (as described in detail below) is that all garments can be classified into and composed of a set of 'primaries' and a number of sets of 'secondaries' where 'primaries' consists of key pieces of the garment which cover the main parts of a person's body (for example the bodice of a shirt), and 'secondaries' are accessories or further functional elements of the garment (for example, collars, sleeves and so on).

Each garment, at its junctions where elements can be assembled and/or disassembled, use the fastener described above and will use a seam mechanism which is identified by its 'seamcode' for its main adjoining edges for other parts. For instance, as described in detail below with reference to Figure 13, all round-necked collar sets have seamcode 'PSlOl ' that could adjoin with all shirt bodices with seamcode 'PSlOl '. Through this uniformed mechanism, each 'primaries' set can be matched with more than one 'secondaries' set or with pieces of other 'primaries' set, so long as they are of the same size, and with the same seamcodes. In addition to the possibilities of being the enabler of fashion garment design and production mass customisation, as described above and in further detail below, the provision of a detachable fastening mechanism which in effect as a garment seam of no substantial volume or stiffness, offers the following advantages: a) an alternative to an open-end zipper (the type that allows full detachment of two garment parts) as a fastener for garments: the fastener described above takes three work-steps to complete in its fabrication process, as opposed to a minimum of twelve work-steps required (excluding custom colouring) to fabricate a finished open end nylon zipper; b) the preferred fastener has two parts to its entirety as opposed to the ten parts for a zipper and therefore is subject to much less possibility for failure; c) the preferred fastener does not need a puller and has no directional requirements nor restrictions. Therefore it can be cut to length to suit almost any garment parts with no matching problems in the fastening between different male and female parts. (As with zippers, the two main fastenable parts are typically limited to those that were originally fabricated and finished together as a set. This is because when zipper parts are interchanged, they often have slight dimensional differences, particularly in their lengths, which would result in the zipper being caught or being uneven when fastened); , d) the use of silicone for the fastener provides a fastener which is much more slender in size and in feel than a typical known zipper, therefore, it can be used in parts of a garment that are in direct and frequent contact with the human body. Furthermore, due to the flexibility of silicone, the fastener has more ease in bending round corners and curves when used in the design of different garment parts, as opposed to zippers and snap tapes which are largely suitable for sewing only as straight lines; ' e) as compared to the zip-loc bag type fastener, despite the material difference, the preferred fastener does not need a slider nor does it rely on both ends of the fastener being sealed (as in the case of zip-loc type fastener that are without a slider); f) the preferred fastener can be sewn on to fabric/garment parts much more easily as its shape does not disturb the sewing machine foot (as in the case of sewing a zipper), and it requires only two rows of stitching (one row per part), as opposed to zippers which typically require two to four rows of stitching, change of machine presser foot as well as more specialised/experienced machinists. Therefore the preferred fastener also reduces work-steps in the garment assemblage.

The preferred fastener has dimensions and a flexibility such that the connection between two pieces of garment coupled together by the fastener is not significantly bulkier or stiffer than a conventional sewn seam.

The following description relates to the preferred embodiments of process and system for designing and producing articles of clothing using article pieces which can be coupled together by the type of fastener disclosed herein.

The design system disassembles the design information and design logic of a garment in the contemporary fashion industries, in order to rationalise the crucial factors in the industry workings and streamline the pre-(garment) production design process steps.

The design system establishes the key conditions and key components of the fashion industries as 'constants' and 'variables'. These constants and variables are factors to which all companies participating in the supply of fashion garments are subject to in the general course of their work. The 'constants' are the conditions of: 1. time line, 2. communication plane, and 3. decision points. The 'variables' are the components for designing the garment, namely: a) fabrics, b) colours, and c) silhouettes. These are the only three factors that are incessantly changing to supply newness and variety to customers. The design system taught herein takes the 'constants' of the fashion industries and introduces three new parameters for the supply chain upstream: first, it establishes a common time infrastructure for the three key parties involved in the supply chain upstream processes, namely garment designers (GD), textiles suppliers (TS), and garment manufacturers (GM) (collectively 'producers'). Figure 7 illustrates a full fashion season's supply map. Secondly, the design system establishes set communication interfaces between the

3 parties (see Figures 8 and 9). These set communication interfaces are where the same type of information must be provided/transferred comprehensively between fixed members of parties (see Figure 10), season after season. Therefore the design system establishes specification formats at these communication interfaces. In Figure 9, which shows a set communication interfaces diagram, the shaded areas show communication between designer/brand house, textile suppliers, and garment manufacturers. Figure 10 shows an integrated decision points diagram, with PSP being a 'producers selection point' and CCP a 'customers' choice point. Shaded areas are integrated decision points.

Thirdly, the design system identifies key points in the fashion garment supply chain where decisions are currently made solely by designers' selections (for example, by 'supply push' or 'design lead' (known as blind decisions), and would greatly benefit from information on customers' real demand (such as their choices, needs, preferences). The design system therefore establishes the timing and nature of these specific instances and attribute them as the integrated decision points (see Figure 11). Tables 1 and 2 below list typical decisions to be made in the supply chain process upstream:

Table 1.

Table 2. The design system then intervenes with the three 'variables' (colour, fabric, and silhouette) of the fashion garment design where all information provision/transfer between the three parties of the producers and at the key communication interfaces are in regards to.

Classification & Coding

Firstly, the system establishes a classification structure (see Figure 13) for the garment 'silhouette', where every single garment can naturally be identified by its garment 'type' (Tier A Class), and where all garments within a 'type' possess certain common attributes. For instance, garment T is a 'trousers' (type), and all garments in trousers type consist of waist and two legs parts. Five key types of garments are defined below. Tier B Classes concerns the designs of each individual garment 'style'. Each class B garment style, for instance, a 'long-sleeves asymmetric shirt with mandarin collar' belongs also to a class A garment type, in this case, the Class A type 'Blouses'.

A coding standard is preferably employed throughout the entire classification structure to differentiate between classes. In this example, all coding for types (including garment types and element types) uses first letter of word, e.g. 'B' for 'blouses', as listed below in Tier A classification:

.Tier A. Garment type ~ the garment type is sorted into 5 classes: Jackets 'J'; includes all garments with common attributes of open-able bodice parts and sleeves worn as an outer garment.

Trousers 'T'; includes all garments for the lower body with the common attributes of two separate leg parts.

Skirts 'S'; includes all garments for the lower body with the common attributes of not separating the legs with its fabric coverage.

Blouses 'B'; includes all garments for upper body with the common attributes of covering the torso, such as shirts, vests, and pullovers.

Dresses 'D'; includes all garments with the common attribute of covering the upper body torso and lower body to whatever extent.

.Tier B. Garment Style ~ each garment design style is given a further 3 digit code following its type. Each style also has an affiliated summary description.

For instance, in the Class A garment type of Jacket 'J', there are (sub)

Classes B of Jacket styles:

JOO 1. 'long-sleeve fitted jacket with wide lapel '

J002. '3/4-sleeve slim fit jacket'

.Tier C. Element Type - consists of Primary Elements (coded 'P') and Secondary

Elements (coded 'S'). Each garment is composed of only one primary element but may have multiple secondary elements, e.g. a blouse composed of blouse bodice (1 Primary), and sleeves and collar (2 Secondaries). See below for Primary and Secondary Types.

Primary Element Types:

J. (jacket bodice): J(jacket)P(primary)-B(bodice)

T. (trousers legs): TP-L

S. (skirt panels): SP-P

B. (blouse bodice): BP-B

D. (dress panels): DP-P

Secondary Element Types: J. jacket sleeves, jacket lapel/collars, jacket cuffs, jacket pockets, jacket hem, jacket accessories (e.g. hood, scarf), jacket embellishment.

T. trousers hem, trousers pockets, trousers waistband, trousers embellishment.

S. skirt hem, skirt pockets, skirt waistband, skirt embellishment.

B. blouse collars, blouse sleeves, blouse cuffs, blouse pockets, blouse hem, blouse embellishment.

D. dress collars, dress sleeves, dress pockets, dress hem, dress accessories, dress panel, dress embellishment.

Table 3. Total count for garment element (module) types

.Tier D. Element Style - is the smallest stock keeping unit (SKU) and each coded with a 3 digits following its type (letter abbreviation) and has a summary description, e.g. 'JS-LOOl ' is a jacket lapel (secondary element) with the description of 'jacket slim-fit long sleeve', as with the coding principles for garment style.

The design system defines the garment styles as architecture. Each garment is seen as an aggregate of elements that can be separated and/or joined up with elements of other garments, and each functional element is a garment part (element), for instance, a sleeve.

Modules - Primary and Secondary Elements

The new design logic lies in the systematic classification of all garments into four tiers. A module is the smallest stock keeping unit (SKU), that is a primary element style or a secondary element style. Primary elements are modules with the attributes of 'common components', and secondary element types such as collars and sleeves are 'option-related' components.

All modules (element styles) designed belong to the same sub-product family (element type) possess common attributes, for example all collars surround the neck/shoulder area of the body. Secondly, all of them from the same sub-product family must follow the same rules to form the architecture of a garment, for example all collars are to be connected with the neck/chest area of a blouse bodice (primary element). Thirdly, each module has a set of built in specifications with default minimum measurements, seam allowances, special requirements and so on. As per the principles of modularisation, these design or technical specifications can be altered provided that the interface that connects between elements remains consistent.

Standard - Seamcodes Interfaces describe the detail of how modules fit together, connect, and communicate, and it is by way of interface that conforming components can be replaced, re-used, and/or exchanged. In this design system , interface is both a design concept and an operative parameter, manifested by the 'seamcode' related to the fastening described above. Each garment element (module) is given a 'seamcode' at its crucial garment assemblage junctions, where it is to joint up with other elements to make the complete garment styles. Cuts (lines)/measurements are built-into its module design. Within the same elements styles, the junctions would have the same standardised seamcodes for style/colour inter-changeability. In certain cases of different element styles, for example a wing collar and a mandarin collar, they can be interchangeable to match the same primary element bodices if they have the same seamcode at their neck girths.

System Datastream

The system datasystem consists of the three typical parts of a database; first, the back-end data warehouse stores all information. Secondly, the application server supports the front-end intranet (company networks) and internet (website) interfaces for the end-users of design system (that is, designer/brand-house staff and end-customers). It also defines, controls, and measures the design rules in testing each module's conformity to one another and to that of the architecture, that is the garment. It is where the standard of modularisation principles is set. Through pre-defined business logic programmed (established at the birth of each new style/module in the design stage), correct inforination can be made available to identifiable users, via secure and controlled access to certain parts of the datasystem, and in required format of combinations or permutations. For instance, all information on a pair of sleeves elements plus the collars and cuffs needed by a designer can be pulled to specify a certain blouse style BlOl (and should the seamcodes between the different elements do not match, the datasystem will by default reject the combination). Finally, the front-end interface (internet or intranet) allows users of different levels to access required information. Therefore, instead of repetitively duplicating the same information with data re-entry at different stages and between various parties of the supply chain processes and in different formats, the design system datasystem dramatically reduces wastage in time, material, financial, and human resources. Figure 1 1 shows a collective activity map for the process.

Seamcode Permutation

The seamcode is used wherever there is a detachable part for a garment using the fastener described herein. Its coding method does not follow that of the garment elements set in the classification hierarchy. It is differentiated only by three types of relationships between elements: primary to primary, primary to secondary, and secondary to secondary. Therefore, all seamcodes begin with letter abbreviation of 'pp', 'ps' or 'ss', and are then followed by a three digit number for individual item identification. For instance, 'ps202' is the interface that fits between the seam assemblage junction of a primary element 'shirt bodice' and that of a secondary element 'sleeve' because they are both with the seamcode of 'ps202' at the armhole.

There is no necessary correlation between the seamcode 'ps202' and a certain garment style of J202 or element style of JP-B202. The seamcode is restricted neither by the vertical class nor by the horizontal type for the classification hierarchy and instead, each seamcode represents the unique and particular design of a fastened seam: with its length, curvature, seam allowance, and notch positions as default information built-in to its specification and stored in the datasystem. Clearly, the seamcode determines the rules for whether and how garment elements fit together; both in the physical garment design and assemblage, and in the datasystem programming. Therefore; so long as two elements possess the same exact seamcode at the junction of the fastening, they can be assembled and/or disassembled to become a larger part or a whole of a garment, by the garment designer, manufacturer, retailer, or by the customer.

Element Combination

According to the design system garment classification, the datasystem consists of five primary element types and 28 secondary element types, totalling 33 element (module) types (see Table 3). The number of element styles per type continues to grow as new styles are created each season. Applying the simple principles of modularity, more numerous garment styles can be generated from fewer elements.

In an example of a existing global company 'VS' where approximately 400 different garment styles (that is, 400 technical packages including both garment specifications and bill of materials; 400 garment patterns and samples) are generated every 6 months (excluding different fabric and colour ways per style), the design system would dramatically economise its resource and streamline its practice. Table 4 shows VS 's collection by garment types according to the design system classification. Applying the design system with seamcodes, a minimum of 48 styles of jacket variety can be created with the combinations of just four different jacket primary elements, 2 different secondary elements for sleeves, and three different secondary elements for lapels. Further options can be offered by additional secondary elements, such as pockets or embellishment, and according to the personal preference of the customer.

Table 4. A full season range from sample company VS

Garment Variation

A garment variation formula based on permutations statistics is thus devised for the user of the design system . In order to decipher the number of alternatives that can be generated from a minimum set of primary and secondary elements, multiply the number of primary element styles (for example 4) with their commonly compatible secondary' elements: 4 x 2!x3! = 4 x 2x1 x 3x2x1 = 48. Instead of generating 48 marginally different styles, 9 (that is, 2+3+4) different modules designed with compatible seamcodes can achieve the task; in this case example, using only 18.75% of the design development resources. Therefore, when a series of garment styles are conceived and sketched up, if two simple steps can be consciously taken: firstly, sort garment by type; secondly, collectively analyse all garments to identify the design of same seamcodes (see Figure 14), for example armholes for three blouses that share the same shape/cut, then new or existing seamcodes can be assigned to match the garment elements. Once these two simple yet instrumental steps are taken, wide-ranging garment variations and styling options can be generated from a fixed numbers of elements to be juxtaposed with each season's colour and fabric palettes defined in design system format of specifications. On the process front, the implementation of the design system also means that numerous steps in the design development and layers in the communication plane can be eliminated, saving enormous amount of time, material, and human resources. On the output front, within each season's creative directions and realistic constraints of garment designers, the modular principle of the design system increases variety, flexibility, and customisation yet does not limit creativity. On the contrary, it allows the customer to dis/re-assemble garments post-sale, according to their personal preferences and creativity. Figure 15 shows an example of garment assemblage and variations.

Datasvstem Rationalisation

The datasystem stores and manages two main types of information: a) product information compile the comprehensive contents of 'garment spec' and 'fabric spec' (highlighted in communication interface diagram Figure 10 8), and includes the three key areas ('variables') of design, that is fabric, colours, and silhouette (see Figures 16 to 20). All elements with their inherent specifications built-in to the design early on at the design process stage can be stored electronically at the back-end data warehouse of the datasystem and accessed through the application server in the front-end; b) customers' information which includes customer profiles (general data and personal measurements), on-line survey results (on choices and preferences) and purchase history are continuously collected from the front-end interface, stored, and analysed. The resulting information on customer's choice can then be regularly streamed back up the supply chain to inform Producer's selection according to the fashion industry time infrastructure, thus activating the integrated decisions points (enabling a mutually , beneficial 'prosumer' (Moffat, 1990) relationship offered by the highest level of mass customisation).

Figures 21 and 22 show another example of fastening device, which includes first and second fastening parts 50, which are identical to one another. The fastener parts 50 are able to withstand lateral and shear forces and a minimum temperature of 100⁰C and are formed to shape and wrap around a nylon wire core 56. In each part there are provided top holes 52 which enhance bending flexibility.

Side rectangular holes also enhance flexibility.

This embodiment is also provided with fastener tape 58 in one continuous form with a fixing member 54 of the part 50 and which can be heat adhered to fabric components to form the garment pieces. Referring now to Figures 23 and 24 another embodiment of fastener device includes a male part 100, a female part 102, and a fixing member 104 . The male and female parts 100, 102 can be push-fit together/snapped-on to each other, and released when pulled with forces exerted in opposite directions. The male part 100 is preferably formed of a solid piece of silicone with curved profile in its section thickness height. The female part 102 is formed of a continuous wall encompassing the male part solid, with the same curvature profile in its internal section thickness height.

The preferred form of this embodiment of fastener device is in the shape of miniature capsule tablets and made with liquid silicone. The male and female parts 100, 102 are made with two plates and pressure moulded in series, and injected on to each of its fixing member tape 104 while penetrating and bonding with the tape. The tape is of light-weight woven fabric with nylon fibres, and laser-cut on the bias of the fabric grain to form long strips. This enables the long strips to curve around garment shapes and lines much more effectively. Alternatively, the tape can also use non-woven fabric with high tear-strength and heat resistance to withstand direct contact heat of up to 300⁰C. Figures 23 and 24 provide an indication of the dimensions of the preferred embodiment of fastener. It will be appreciated that at such dimensions the fastener can provide good fastening analogous to a stitched seam and which retains good flexibility. The skilled person will readily appreciate from the above teachings the hardware set up required for implementing the garment design and production method described above. In essence the system will provide means, typically computerised devices, operable for performing the process tasks indicated above. Various of the Figures provide dimensions for the embodiments of fastener shown.

It will be appreciated that those dimensions pertain to the specific embodiments described and that fasteners could be made of other dimensions. It will also be appreciated that the dimensions are to be regarded as approximate as slight immaterial variations are to be included within the scope of the teachings herein. The disclosures in British patent application number 0419523.6, from which this application claims priority, and in the abstract accompanying this application are incorporated herein by reference.

Claims

1. A flexible fastener for clothing including a fixing member for fixing to a fabric or other material and a fastening element fixed to the fixing member, the fastening element including a gripper portion which is able to engage the gripper portion of a second identical flexible fastener such that the two gripper portions at least partially grip around one another.

2. A fastener according to claim 1, wherein the gripper portion provides a surface able to provide a resistive force in a direction substantially away from the fixing member.

3. A fastener according to claim 2, wherein the gripper portion includes one or more walls able to provide a resistive force in all directions.

4. A fastener according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the fixing member is a flange to which fabric can be sewn or otherwise secured.

5. A fastener according to any preceding claim, wherein the fixing member extends substantially the whole length of the fastener.

6. A fastener according to any preceding claim, wherein at least the fastening element is formed from a rubberised material.

7. A fastener according to claim 6, wherein the rubberised material includes silicone, a rubberised plastic or a rubberised silicone or any combination thereof, i

8. A flexible fastener for clothing including first and second fastening elements able to be fastened together, wherein at least one of the fastening elements is made from a rubberised material.

9. A flexible fastener according to claim 8, wherein the fastening elements include a male and a female element, wherein at least the female element is made from said rubberised material.

10. A flexible fastener according to claim 7 or 8, wherein said fastener is less than substantially 3 mm in width.

11. A flexible fastener according to claim 10, wherein said fastener is around 2 mm in width.

12. A flexible fastener for clothing including first and second fastening elements able to be fastened together, wherein said fastener is less than substantially 3 mm in width.

13. A releasable fastener that works as a detachable machine fell seam.

14. An item for clothing, including at least one fastener fastenable to another item of clothing according to any preceding claim. '

15. A garment including at least two portions provided with a flexible fastener according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

16. A system for producing garments including a plurality of different and a plurality of equivalent garment pieces each forming part of an article of clothing, each of said pieces being provided with a flexible fastener according to any one of claims 1 to 13 so as to allow for different garment pieces to be fastened together to form an article of clothing.

17. A system according to claim 16, wherein the plurality of equivalent garment pieces differ in design and/or colour and/or texture.

18. A system for providing articles of clothing including means for providing a common time infrastructure for garment designers, textile suppliers and garment manufacturers; a common interface between garment designers, textile suppliers and garment manufacturers; and a specification format for identifying garment components and component features for use in the common interface.

19. A system according to claim 18, wherein at least a part of the system is software based.

20. A system according to claim 18 or 19, including means for collecting customer preference information and feeding such information to garment designers and/or textile suppliers.

21. A system according to claim 20, including means for analyse multiple customer information. ,

22. A system for producing a garment including means to provide to a customer a selection from a plurality of different garment pieces each piece provided with at least one fastener as specified in any one of claims 1 to 13, means to enable a customer to select from the plurality of different garment pieces, and means for supplying the different garment pieces, wherein the selected and supplied garment pieces form an entire garment.