CN101111169A - Garment manufacturing process and method and garment features - Google Patents

Abstract

There is disclosed a system for fastening together different pieces of an article of clothing so as to enable a customer to select a specific clothing style and design by selection of different garment pieces. The fastening creates a garment seam equivalent to a sewn seam yet provides non-permanent closures for garment assemblage and thus allows a garment to be created specifically to the customer's wish. There is also disclosed a system for producing garments from a plurality of different garment pieces and a simplified design and production schedule.

Description

Clothes fabrication schedule and method and garment component

[technical field]

The present invention relates to a kind of dress designing and manufacturing system and method, and relate to garment elements and relate to the fastening of clothes.

[background technology]

Because more and more diversified demand and fierce global competition, fashion falls over each other and adjusts so that survive in the challenge environment that continues.Current fashion is cognitive to the problem place, promptly is formed in orthochronous, the key purpose of supply clothes that meets the consumption of ultimate customers demand from the notion of clothes quite not have efficient and invalid.This is obvious especially in the design phase of supply chain upstream, normally similar problem is taking place Ji Fuyi season between the process segment and between the each side that handles.In particular, these problems comprise: a) Hun Luan communication interface, b) generation of duplicate message and data repeat input, c) blindly and rambling decision-making (for example guessing clothes fashion that client may want, preference, quantity etc. in 6 to 12 months).Existing program will be spent 14 to 18 weeks and comprise the general step that is shown in Fig. 1 to 3 usually to producing from producing design concept.Fig. 1 illustrates typical designer's flow instance, and Fig. 2 illustrates typical clothing merchant and textile supplier's flow instance, and Fig. 3 illustrates typical client's flow process.

Meet the internal coordination of depending on designer's activity step (seeing below) between ultimate off period of the deadline of each program step and seasonal Time To Market.This also depends in the period of needs the external dynamic with textile supplier and clothing merchant.Key dynamically also have its typical case and effectively starting point and a terminal point.The typical seasonal program of precedence diagram shown in Figure 4 demonstration supply fashionable dress, with textile supplier, designer/brand merchant, and the clothing merchant be three and use cases.Each side has a timeline and common weekly calendar to show the situation that main activities takes place.The duration of each movable section that different use cases is carried out marks input and/or output between the relative program section by arrow and comment.Using the normally form of information or sample (for example cloth and clothes) of the I/O of transmitting between the case.

On the clothes aspect, existing fastening system has many shortcomings, particularly the following stated.

Slide fastener-nylon latch closure open end

The nylon coil zipper is the most soft, the careful and flexible in the middle of three kinds of available slide fastener coupling elements (being metal, plastics and nylon).It has at most and application the most widely in lady's Western-style clothes class, skirt class, upper garment class etc., but the great majority application is to adopt endcapped formula slide fastener.Do not pulled on even if this means slide fastener, the both sides of slide fastener still at one end engage, and are to separate fully with its two blocks of clothes that do not allow stitching this slide fastener.Minimum dimension is No. 2.5 (just slide fastener latch closure tooth overall width is 2.5mm during zip up).

The open-ended slide fastener all at the bottom of cotton yarn tape auspicious have a box thing (minimum 5mm * 5mm * 3mm) to hold two pins, wherein a pin can be drawn out with two cotton yarn tapes are separated fully (thereby allow be sewed with these two pins two blocks of clothes separately).In addition, at the cotton yarn tape two ends reinforcement place is arranged all, it increases the stiffness of cotton yarn tape at width, causes it can be uncomfortable when being used to lean the clothes zone of joint (such as knee, shoulder).

With regard to the manufacturing and the assembling of slide fastener, the open-ended slide fastener will spend at least 9 job steps just can finish, and endcapped formula slide fastener will be used at least 12 steps.Even most of job step automated machine programs still need people's supervision.In addition, owing to the product line conversion of slide fastener style, color, length or the like is quite frequent, so the integral manufacturing process is labour-intensive.

In the application aspect the clothing, it is one to need the maximum duration and the job step of high skill with regard to slide fastener.Slide fastener is sewn on the cloth sheet requires at first sewing-machine foot to be transformed into Zola's chain presser feet and be transformed into a right slide fastener presser feet (or conversely) then, not so when using a standard presser feet, higher sewer's skill level will be arranged.This is because will be close to that the nylon tooth edge that protrudes on planar cloth sheet and the cotton yarn tape is sewed up and manipulation has difficulty, and this is used for most of situation of clothes at slide fastener, particularly lady's clothes, and be necessary in the use of CONCEAL ZIPPER.Secondly, indivedual fashionable with a latasuture of slide fastener independently when two cloth sheets, must make perfect alignment of this piece cloth and sewing tensioning.Thirdly, this straight thread stitch can not be smooth and easy, continuous sewing steps because the sewer always draw climb/shut down when pull head bumps against presser feet climb so that this is drawn/pull head removes.The 4th point, slide fastener can't be easily turned along curve and edge together with its cotton yarn tape, causes its being used in aspect function and the aesthetic feeling two on clothes limited.

Pressure-sealing zipper bar-plastics end of remaining silent

Pressure-sealing zipper bar (Ziploc) securing member is to be manufactured by plastics to be with or without pull head.Do not have can being snapped together of pull head, it is normally used for the sack of a definite form and has a closure auspicious forever.Because the heat resistance and the pliability of the used plastic material character of these securing members are low, so it is not used to clothes.

The mechanism of pressure-sealing zipper stripe shape securing member is made up of common unit that is bonded together along longitudinally and auxiliary assembly.These two parts have powerful opposing effect for the side direction pulling force, but then very weak to the opposing of skew/skid force for shearing and tear edge and lengthwise.At present, the sole mode that remains closed and resist to shear simultaneously and tear be with the stiff end sealing of the both sides of its length with the sack shape alignment.

Snapping band (snap-fastener)

The snapping band is normally by with plastics or metal snap-fastener (common unit and auxiliary assembly) tandem ground injection moulding or clip on the length of two woven supporting tapes and make.The snapping band has the clasp parts of minimum 8mm usually, and the distance between the snap-fastener has 4cm.Therefore all clasps of two parts all snap together at last, and the snapping band can not produce continuous closure yet.In addition, spacing between its thickness, diameter, the clasp and cotton yarn tape minimum widith do not allow to be used for thin or the curved surface and the corner of clothing because of the straight burr graticule of cotton yarn tape.

Hook and ring magic strap (Velcro ^)

Velcro ^Hook is often used as the enclosed member of opening with ring magic strap (magic tape) or is used for linking two blocks of clothes that separate (such as overcoat pocket), accessory (such as sack compartment) of coat, and the fixing tool (such as edge seal) of camp.The hook band has the nylon wire hook of embarking on journey continuously, and the ring band has the intensive polyester yarn ring of knitting the projection in the cotton yarn tape.The problem of magic strap at first is its closure effect variation gradually, this be because nylon wire in time through and tired and then lose hook shape, and the polyester yarn ring is repeated to pull by hook spare when being opened at the closure place that two parts form.Secondly, when being used to most of fabrics (this is its modal purposes), the hook band can undermine fabric face because of its roughening, and it is trapped in hair, fiber and dirt between its hook spare and lowers the ability that it catches the ring band, this also can reduce its closure effect except causing unhandsome outward appearance.Because the coarse structure of magic strap and hold hook spare and the needed thickness of the mechanism of ring height makes magic strap except coat or work clothes, be unsuitable for the application of more extensive clothes aspect again.

[summary of the invention]

The present invention proposes a kind of clothes manufacturing system and method for improvement, and proposes the securing member of garment elements and clothes.

According to an aspect of of the present present invention, a kind of flexible securing member that is used for clothes is proposed, its comprise one for fixing to the fixed component of a fabric or other materials and one and this fixed component be the clamp structure of one, this clamp structure comprises a grip, and it can engage with the grip of one second identical flexible securing member and cause these two grips at least in part mutually around grasping.

The advantage of this system is that identical securing member can be bonded with each other and need not a fastening actuator, such as pull head or analog.

Preferably, this hold that claw portion provides one can be on a surface that a resistance roughly is provided on the direction away from this fixed component.In a preferred embodiment, this grip comprises one or more wall that resistance can be provided on all directions.

This fixed component can be one can allow fabric sew up or otherwise fixing flange.The total length that this fixed component roughly extends this securing member is favourable.

In a preferred embodiment, this securing member is made of silicone.

According to another aspect of the present invention, a kind of object that is used for clothes is proposed, comprise at least one securing member that is fastened to another object of clothes, this tightening member is to be made of silicone rubber.

Preferably, this flexible securing member comprise one for fixing to the fixed component of a fabric or other materials and one and this fixed component be the tightening member of one, this clamp structure comprises a grip, and the grip that it can identical flexible securing member with second engages and causes these two grips to grasp at least in part mutually.

This is held claw portion and provides one can roughly to provide the surface of a resistance on the direction away from this fixed component one be favourable.In a preferred embodiment, this grip comprises one or more walls that resistance can be provided on all directions.

This fixed component can be one can allow fabric sew up or otherwise fixing flange.Preferably this fixed component roughly extends the total length of this securing member.

According to another aspect of the present invention, a kind of releasable securing member is proposed, its effect as same removable folder (fell seam) that buries.

According to another aspect of the present invention, a kind of clothes that contain at least two parts are proposed, each several part possesses a foregoing flexible securing member.

According to other direction of the present invention, a kind of system that is used to make clothes is proposed, it comprises a plurality of differences and a plurality of equivalent garment pieces of a part that constitutes clothes separately, each garment pieces possesses foregoing flexible securing member, so that allow clothes of different garment pieces formation secured together.

Preferably, described a plurality of equivalent garment pieces is different aspect design and/or color and/or quality.

This system preferably comprises the device that is used for selecting and/or design the device of indivedual garment pieces and is used for informing to a manufacturer that makes these clothes this selection and/or design.

[description of drawings]

Fig. 1 is the sketch map of a typical prior art designer program;

Fig. 2 is the sketch map of a typical prior art clothing merchant and textile supplier's program;

Fig. 3 is the sketch map of a typical prior art client program;

Fig. 4 is one from being designed into the precedence diagram of the existing fashionable dress industry upstream program before producing;

Fig. 5 is the profilograph of a fastening system preferred embodiment;

Fig. 6 is an isometric perspective figure of Fig. 5 system;

Fig. 7 one relates to the program of communication activity between designer and the textile supplier

The sketch map of embodiment;

Fig. 8 one relates to the sketch map of the embodiment of the communication action routine that the information of carrying out provides/transmits between designer and clothing merchant;

Fig. 9 is a communication interface sketch map;

Figure 10 is an integration decision point sketch map;

Figure 11 is the flow chart of preferred embodiment of system from dress designing to the retail;

Figure 12 is the sketch map of a preferred embodiment of a data system assembly;

Figure 13 is the sketch map of a garment configurations embodiment;

Figure 14 is the sketch map of the embodiment of a collective activity figure;

Figure 15 is the sketch map of clothes assembling and variation summary;

Figure 16 is the example of the production information of a clothing cloth;

Figure 17 walks the example of the production information of a clothing color;

Figure 18 is the example of the production information of a clothes fashion (profile);

Figure 19 and 20 is examples of the Customer Information of record client brief introduction:

Figure 21 is the isometric views of another embodiment of tightening member;

Figure 22 is a longitudinal sectional drawing of Figure 21 fastener embodiment;

The profile and the non-isometric views of another fastener that Figure 23 is made up of common unit and auxiliary assembly; And

Figure 24 is the plane of the fastener of tandem ground Figure 23 of being fixed in restraint zone.

[specific embodiment]

Following reference is appended graphic with way of example explanation embodiments of the invention.

With reference to Fig. 5 and 6, preferred embodiment proposes a kind of securing member of opening, its effect as same removable folder (machine fell seam) that buries.Securing member is made up of first and second parts, and each parts has a flexible substrate and a other side's mirror image.These two parts need not pull head can be pressed into and are bonded together.Each parts of this securing member have two one assemblies: raceway groove and band.

Each raceway groove has one " G " shape section configuration (seeing Fig. 5 and 6) in its main trench portions.When being bonded together, first parts are configured as along the total length and second parts and turn upside down, and utilize and should catch second parts by " G " shape section.These two parts are still very firm when suffering side force, then separate when suffering shearing force.

Each parts preferably by 100% silicone rubber manufacturing, has following material behavior: 80 degree Shore hardness, 9 newton/mm ²Tensile strength, 17 newton/mm ²Tearing strength, 375% percentage elongation, and direct contact heat resistance up to 300 ℃, when being burnt 2 minutes missing of ignition.It can bear flatiron and machine-washing, and its avirulence, does not harm skin.

Person of skill in the art will appreciate that also and can adopt other kinds silicone.

This securing member is identical shaped because of its first and second parts have only to be needed a mould and is extruded shaping, and give 600 ℃ down for the time 1/4 minute after program curing.

This securing member is facilitated the detachable property of the abundant open-ended of two fastener-parts.It can be used in the main joint of every kind of clothes fashion, makes the part (element) of clothes become fully detachable.The principle of this application (seeing for details hereinafter) is that all clothes can be classified and comprise one group " primary element (primaries) " and many groups " secondary element (Secondaries) ", wherein " primary element " is made up of the key garment pieces that is used for covering the main position of human body (for example bodice of shirt), and " secondary element " is accessory or other functional elements (for example collar, sleeve etc.) of clothes.

The joint that every clothes can be assembled and/or decompose at its element uses above-mentioned securing member and can use a seam mechanism, and this mechanism is discerned with " the seam sign indicating number (seamcode) " at the main edge of itself and miscellaneous part adjacency.For instance, it is described to see below Figure 13, and all crew neck collar groups have seam sign indicating number " PS101 ", and it can join with all the shirt bodices with seam sign indicating number " PS101 ".Via this unitized mechanism, each " primary element " group can with " secondary element " group more than one group or with the element coupling of other " primary elements " groups, prerequisite be measure-alike and also the seam sign indicating number the same.

Except as mentioned above and the possibility of facilitating fashionable dress design and output mass customizationization that will be described in more detail hereinafter, as a kind of in fact not the removable retention mechanism of the clothes seam of suitable large volume of tool or stiffness following advantage is provided:

A) replace the securing member of an open-ended slide fastener (allowing the distinct type of two clothes parts) as clothes: the above securing member uses three job steps just to finish its processing procedure, finishes minimum 12 job steps (not comprising that customization is painted) of wanting of open-ended nylon zipper and will make;

B) this preferred fastener has two parts altogether, and slide fastener has ten parts, so the fault probability of securing member of the present invention is much lower;

C) this preferred fastener does not need to draw and climbs and do not have direction to require or restriction.Therefore the length of this preferred fastener can be fit to almost any clothes part and cut, and the fastening problem that does not have coupling between the different male and female parts.(with regard to slide fastener, but two main secure components are normally constrained at the beginning just as same group of two parts making and finish.This is because when slide fastener members is exchanged, and it often has slightly size difference, particularly aspect length, and this can cause slide fastener to be caught in when fastening or unevenness);

D) silicone is used for securing member can provide a kind of aspect size and sensation all than conventionally known slide fastener very thin the securing member of Duoing.Therefore, it can be used in human body directly and the part of the clothes that often contact.In addition, because the pliability of silicone, in the time of in the design that is used to the different garment part, this securing member is in the easier use of fillet and curve place of bending, and this is different from main slide fastener and the snapping band that only is fit to the straight line stitching.

E) compared to pressure-sealing zipper bar bag type securing member, although material is different, this preferred fastener does not need pull head not rely on securing member two ends sealed (for example picture does not have the situation of the pressure-sealing zipper stripe shape securing member of pull head) yet;

F) this preferred fastener can more easily be sewn on cloth/clothes part, because its shape can not interfere with sewing-machine foot when slide fastener (seam then can), and it only needs two hand-manipulating of needle pin (each parts delegation), and slide fastener usually needs two to the four lines stitch, changes seam machine presser feet, reaches and more be proficient in/skilled sewer.Therefore this preferred fastener also reduces the job step of clothes assembling.

The size of this preferred fastener and flexible performance make the connection between two garment pieces that linked together by this securing member can be obviously not bigger or hard than traditional sewn seams.

Below explanation is about utilizing the garment pieces that can be coupled in by the securing member of the above-mentioned type together to design and make the preferred embodiment of the program and the system of clothes.

This design system is decomposed the dress designing information and the design logic of contemporary fashion, so that preceding designing program produced in the important elements and the simplification (clothes) that rationalize in the industry work.

This design system is made as " constant " and " variable " with the key situation and the critical elements of fashion.These constants and variable are to be engaged in the key element that all companies of fashionable dress supply can suffer from its general sex work process.These " constants " are following situations: 1. timeline, 2. intercourse platform, and 3. decision points.These " variablees " are the key elements that is used for designing clothes, i.e. a) cloth, b) color, and c) profile.More than be that only three meetings continue to change to supply the key element that up-to-date and various product is given client.

Design system of the present invention adopts " constant " of fashionable dress industry and imports three kinds of new arguments in the supply chain upstream: at first, its key three parts for involving in the supply chain upstream program, promptly designer (GD), textile supplier (TS), and clothing merchant (GM) (being referred to as " producer ") set up framework between the time spent altogether.Fig. 7 illustrates the supply figure in a complete fashionable dress season.

Secondly, this design system is set up the communication interface (seeing Fig. 8 and 9) that this three party is determined.Between the fixed member of each side must communication interface Ji Fuyi season of this setting ground, provide all sidedly/transmit with the category information (see figure 10).Therefore, this design system is linked up the interface at these and is set up the specification form.

In the Fig. 9 that shows a communication interface sketch map of setting, hatched area is represented the communication between designer/brand merchant, textile supplier and the clothing merchant.Figure 10 illustrates one and integrates the decision point sketch map, and wherein PSP is that one " producer's selected element " and CCP are one " client's selected elements ".Hatched area is to integrate decision point.

The 3rd, this design system is pointed out in the fashionable dress supply chain, the present key point [for example by " supply with and promote " or " design guiding " (being called as blindly decision-making)] that only makes a decision by designer's selection, and can significantly benefit from the information of client's instant demand (such as selection of client, demand, preference).Therefore this design system is set up opportunity of these particular cases and essence and it is classified as and integrates decision point (seeing Figure 11).Following table 1 and 2 is listed in typical case's decision of making the supply chain process upstream:

Table 1

Between fashionable dress lasts	Supply with the decision of promotion/design guiding
		The 3rd week	Seasonal creation direction
The 7th week	Cloth and mixing color
		The 9th week	Material and production source (supply cloth and produce clothes) by it
The 12nd week	The clothes profile is designed and developed

Table 2

Between fashionable dress lasts	Decision by the demand drive
		The 3rd week	Product/the brand image that meets client's cognitive value
The 5th week	Product mix (buying of futures cloth and garment production aspect-style/price)
		The 10th week	Clothes profile, cloth and the color (according to fashion trend/sales volume) that repeat
The 16th week	The final clothes fashion and the quantity of producing

This design system is concocted three kinds " variablees " (color, cloth and profile) of fashionable dress design then, and all information that producer's three party is linked up the interface in key provide/transmit all relevant therewith.

Classification and coding

At first, this system sets up a taxonomic structure (Figure 13) at clothes " profile ", can comply with its clothes " type (type) " differences (level A) naturally at these each single-piece clothes, and all clothes in one " type " have some common attribute.For instance, clothes T is " trousers " (type), and all clothes in the trousers type are grouped into by waistline and two trouser cylinder parts.Five kinds of following definition of key types of clothes.Level B is about the design of each indivedual clothes " style (style) ".Each level B clothes fashion, for example " the asymmetric shirt of the long sleeves of band collar " also belongs to level A types of garments, is level A " blouse " type in this example.

One coding standard preferably applies to whole taxonomic structure to distinguish each level.In this example, the coding of all types (comprising types of garments and component type) uses first letter of English name, " B " of " blouse (blouses) " for example, as listed in the following level A classification:

. level A types of garments one types of garments is divided into 5 classes:

Jacket class " J ": comprise the common attribute that possesses openable bodice part (clothing body) and sleeve and be taken as all clothes that coat is worn.

Trousers class " T ": comprise all clothes that are used for the lower part of the body and possess the common attribute of two trouser legs parts of separating.

Skirt class " S ": comprise being used for the lower part of the body and can possessing separately all clothes of the common attribute of shank with the cloth that covers.

Blouse class " B ": comprise all clothes that are used for upper body and possess the common attribute that covers trunk, such as shirt class, vest class and pullover class.

Connect body dress class " D ": comprise possessing all clothes that cover the upper body trunk and cover the common attribute of any degree of the lower part of the body.

. level B clothes fashion--each dress designing style is given 3 figure place sign indicating numbers in addition after type.Each style also has a related abstract explanation.For instance, in the level A types of garments of jacket " J ", the jacket style of (son) level B is arranged:

J001. " the long sleeves jacket next to the shin that wide lapels is arranged "

J002. " the narrow body jacket of 3/4 sleeve "

. level C component type--form by primary element (coding " P ") and secondary element (coding " C ").Every clothes include only a kind of primary element but multiple secondary element can be arranged, and for example a blouse comprises blouse bodice (1 primary element) and sleeve and collar (2 secondary element).Primary element and secondary element type vide infra.

Primary component type:

J. (jacket bodice): J (jacket) P (primary object)-B (bodice)

T. (trouser legs): TP-L

S. (skirt sheet): SP-P

B. (blouse bodice): BP-B

D. (connect the body load): DP-P

The secondary element type:

J. jacket-sleeve, jacket lapel/collar, jacket cuff, jacket pocket, jacket edging, jacket accessory (for example blast cap, scarf), jacket ornament.

T. trousers edging, trouser pocket, pants waistband, trousers ornament.

S. skirt edging, skirt pocket, skirt waistband, skirt ornament.

B. blouse collar, blouse sleeve, blouse cuff, blouse pocket, blouse edging, blouse ornament.

D. connect body dress collar, connect body dress sleeve, connect body dress pocket, connect body dress edging, connect the body assembly parts, connect the body ornamental strip, connect body dress ornament.

The tale of table 3 clothes element (module) type

Component type	Primary component type number	The component type number	The component type sum
				Be used for jacket	1	7	8
Be used for trousers	1	4	5
				Be used for skirt	1	4	5
Be used for blouse	1	6	7
				Be used for skirt	1	7	8
Amount to number of types	5	28	33

Level D element style--be that minimum inventories holding unit (SKU) and each quilt after its type (letter is write a Chinese character in simplified form) are compiled last 3 bit digital and an explanatory memorandum is arranged, for example " JS-L001 " is a jacket lapel (secondary element) and the explanation of " jacket narrow height sleeve " arranged, as the cryptoprinciple that is used for clothes fashion.

This design system is according to structure definition clothes fashion.Every clothes be considered to be can be separated and/or with the aggregate of the element of the combination of elements of other clothes, and each functional element is clothes part (element), for example sleeves.

Module-primary and secondary element

The basis of this new design logic is all clothing systems are categorized as four levels.Module is minimum inventories holding unit (SKU), just a primary element style or a less important element style.Primary element is the module that possesses " common assembly " attribute, and secondary element type such as collar are the assembly of " option is relevant " with sleeve.

All modules (element style) that are designed to be under the jurisdiction of same sub-Product Family (component type) have common attribute, and for example all collar are round the neck/shoulder zone of health.Secondly, must follow same rule to form the structure of clothes from all modules of same sub-Product Family, for example all collar all will be connected with the neck/chest region of a blouse bodice (primary element).The 3rd, each module has one group of built-in specification, and default minimum measured value, seam tolerance, specific (special) requirements etc. are arranged.Just as modular principle, as long as unanimity is kept at the interface between the Connection Element, these designs or technical specification all can be revised.

Standard-seam sign indicating number

How interface narration module fits together, connects, reaches the details of linking up, and makes the assembly that conforms to can be replaced, reuse and/or exchange via the interface.In this design system, the interface hold concurrently for design concept and operating parameter the two, this operating parameter is with " seam sign indicating number " expression relevant with the described securing member of preamble.Each clothes element (module) is endowed one " seam sign indicating number " at its important clothes assembling joint, each clothes element in these assembling joints and other combination of elements to make complete clothes fashion.Cutting out (lines)/measured value is built-in in its module design.In the similar elements style, joint can have same standardized seam sign indicating number in the hope of style/color interchangeability.In some case of different elements style, for example a wing collar and a band collar, their interchangeable identical primary element bodices that has identical seam sign indicating number with coupling at the neck circumference place.

System data flow

The data system of system is made up of three canonical dissections of a database: the firstth, and all information of Back end data warehouse storage.The second, use front end Intranet (company network) and internet (website) interface of servomechanism support for terminal user (being designer/brand merchant staff and ultimate customers) use of design system.In the middle of each module of test reached uniformity for structure (being clothes) each other, it also defined, controls and estimates design rule.This is a standard part of setting the modularity principle.See through the predefined business logic (each fangle in the design phase/module is established when generating) that writes, discernible user can obtain the correct information with necessary format combination or arrangement via some part of safety and controlled way contact data system.For instance, all information that can obtain the desired a pair of sleeve element of designer and collar and cuff with illustrate a specific blouse style B101 (and just in case the seam sign indicating number between the different elements do not match, then data system is via default and refuse this combination).At last, front-end interface (internet or Intranet) allows user's access information needed of different aspects.

Therefore, must be in different phase and between supply chain each side, the identical information that the mode repetitiousness ground that repeats to import with data duplicates different-format, this design system data system significantly reduced time, material, finance, reach waste of manpower resource.

Figure 11 illustrates the joint activity figure of this program.

The seam sign indicating number is arranged

The seam sign indicating number is used in any detachable clothes part (parts) part of using the described securing member of preamble that has.The clothes component numbering method of setting is not followed in its coding method in classification system.The seam sign indicating number is only done differentiation with three types of concerning between the element: primarily to primarily, and primarily to less important, and less important to less important.Therefore, all seam sign indicating numbers are done beginning with " pp ", " ps " or " ss " letter abbreviations, add three numerals of the indivedual artifact name of representative then.For instance, " ps202 " is the interface that combines between the combination seam crossing of the combination seam crossing of a primary element " shirt bodice " and a less important element " sleeve ", because these two kinds of elements all have the seam sign indicating number of " ps202 " at muff part.

Uninevitable relevance between seam sign indicating number " ps202 " and a livery style J202 or the element style JP-B202.This seam sign indicating number is not limited by the type of level vertical in the classification system and level, but each seam sign indicating number is represented the unique design of a fastening seam: with its length, curvature, seam tolerance, reach gap position as in be built in its specification and be stored in presupposed information in the data system.Clearly, with regard to entity dress designing and assembling and data system programming two aspects, whether seam sign indicating number decision clothes element reaches the rule how to be combined together.Therefore, as long as two elements have identical seam sign indicating number at fastening joint, they just can be made up and/or decomposed to become one than parts (part) or a whole clothing greatly by designer, clothing merchant, retailer or by client.

The element combination

According to this design system clothes classification, data system is made up of 5 kinds of primary component types and 28 kinds of secondary element types, amounts to 33 kinds of elements (module) type (seeing Table 3).Every type element style quantity can continue to increase because of each Ji Youxin wound style.Use simple modularity principle, can produce more clothes fashions from less element.

In the example of an existing global company " VS ", the said firm produced about 400 kinds of different garment styles in per 6 months and (just has the two 400 kinds of technology cover groups (technicalpackage) of the clothing specification and the bill of materials concurrently; 400 kinds of pattern tissues (patterns) and sample clothing) (the different clothes and the color that do not contain every kind of style), this design system can significantly be saved corporate resource and be simplified its implementation.Table 4 illustrates the series of products of VS company according to the clothes fashion apportion of this design system classification.Utilization has this design system of seam sign indicating number, and available only 4 kinds of primary elements of different jackets, 2 kinds of different sleeve secondary element, and the combination of 3 kinds of different lapel secondary element create minimum 48 sections of jacket styles.By extra secondary element, such as pocket or ornament and according to client individual preference, more more options can be provided.

Table 4. is taken from the whole season of the VS of sample company

Types of garments	Style quantity (per 6 months)
		Jacket	48
Trousers	74
		Skirt	40
Blouse	170
		Connect the body dress	68
Amount to style quantity	400

Clothes change

Design a kind of for the user of this design system thus to arrange the clothes equation of change formula of statistics.Can be in order to solve from the alternative quantity that minimal set produced of primary element and secondary element, the quantity of primary element style (for example 4) is multiplied by its compatible secondary element number usually: 4 * 2! * 3!=4 * 2 * 1 * 3 * 2 * 1=48.The style of 48 kinds of marginal differences need not be produced, this task can be reached with 9 kinds of (being 2+3+4) different modules on the contrary with compatible seam sign indicating number; In this example, only use and design and develop 18.75% of resource.

Therefore, when finding out a series of clothes fashions and drawing sketch, if can take two easy steps wittingly: at first, by type is sorted out clothes; Secondly, analyze all clothes jointly, for example be used to have the muffs of identical shaped/three kinds of blouses cutting out, then can give the clothes element of new or existing seam sign indicating number with coupling to find out the design (seeing Figure 14) of identical seam sign indicating number.In case taked this two simple but useful steps, can change and the moulding option from producing large-scale clothes with element with the color in per season of design system specification formal definition and cloth allotment dish fixed qty arranged side by side.From the operation aspect, implement this design system and also mean the many steps and the interior many layers of communication aspect that can omit in designing and developing, save plenty of time, material and human resources.Say that from output face in the innovation direction and real limited field in each season of designer, the module principle of this design system can be promoted variation, elasticity and customization, and can not limit creativity.On the contrary, this design system allows client to decompose/recombinate clothes according to personal like and creativity after purchase.

The example that Figure 15 illustrates the clothes assembling and changes.

Data system rationalizes

Data system stores and manages two kinds of main information types

A) the extensive content of product information editor " clothing specification " and " cloth specification " (in linking up Figure 108 of surface chart, emphasizing), and comprise three key fields (" variable ") of design, i.e. cloth, color and profile (referring to Figure 16 to 20).Possess in the design process stage all elements that are built in the intrinsic specification in the design in early stage and can the electronics mode be stored in the rear end data bank of data system and the application servomechanism that sees through at front end gives access;

B) Customer Information comprises investigation result on client's brief introduction (physical data and individual measured value), the line (at selecting and preference) and shopping history.Customer Information and is stored and is analyzed after front-end interface is collected constantly.The object information that client selects regularly can be sent to inform the producer's selection after supply chain according to fashion's time framework then, thereby decision point [mutual benefits that provided by a large amount of customizations of high-order " participate in produce client (prosumer) " (Moffat, 1990) relation is provided] is integrated in activation.

Figure 21 and 22 illustrates another example of fastener, and it comprises the first and second identical secure components 50.Secure component 50 can bear side force and shearing force and minimum 100 ℃ temperature, and is shaped and surrounds a nylon core 56.

Each parts has can promote crooked flexual end face hole 52.The side rectangular opening is also promoted pliability.

This embodiment also possesses the restraint zone 58 of the fixed component 54 that is conitnuous forms, has parts 50, and it can be by the hot sticky cloth assembly that arrives to form garment pieces.

Referring now to Figure 23 and 24, another embodiment of fastener comprises common unit 100, auxiliary assembly 102 and fixed component 104.Common unit can be pressed into to cooperate/be fastened with auxiliary assembly 100,102 mutually is in the same place, and then unclamps when being applied in rightabout power tractive.Common unit 100 preferably is made of a solid silicone and at its section thickness height curved profile is arranged.Auxiliary assembly 102 is made of a continuous wall that encases this common unit entity, at auxiliary assembly inner section thickness height the same curve profile is arranged also.

The preferred form system of this fastener embodiment is the shape of microencapsulation tablet and makes with liquid silicone.Common unit and auxiliary assembly 100,102 are made into two plates and quilt is tandem ground pressure molding, is radiated on the fixed component band 104 separately, penetrates simultaneously and combines with this member band.This band is the light weight woven cloth that possesses nylon fiber, and carries out laser based on the cloth lines and cut out to form rectangular band.This makes these rectangular bands can be more effectively around clothes shape and lines bending.Another selection is that this band also can use the adhesive-bonded fabric that possesses high-tear strength and can bear the temperature capacity of the direct contact heat up to 300 ℃.

Figure 23 and 24 provides the sign of the size of securing member preferred embodiment.It will be appreciated that according to these sizes securing member can provide the good fastening effect suitable with a sewing seam and maintain good pliability.

Those skilled in the art can understand easily by above explanation and implement above-mentioned dress designing and the needed hardware device of production method.In essence, this system provides and can operate device, the normally computerized device of carrying out above-mentioned operation task.

Have a plurality of accompanying drawings provide shown in the size of fastener embodiment.It will be appreciated that these sizes are relevant with described specific embodiment, and these securing members other sizes can be made into.Unessential slightly variation it will be appreciated that also these sizes are considered to be approximation, because should be contained in the scope of the present invention.

The application require priority No. the 0419523.6th, UK Patent Application content and follow the content of the summary of this case all to be incorporated herein by reference.

Claims (22)

1. flexible securing member that is used for clothes, comprising one is used for fixing fixed component and on a cloth or the other materials and is fixed in tightening member on this fixed component, this tightening member comprises a grip, this grip can engage with the grip of one second identical flexible securing member, causes these two grips at least in part mutually around grasping.

2. securing member as claimed in claim 1, wherein have can be on a surface that resistance roughly is provided on the direction away from this fixed component for this grip.

3. securing member as claimed in claim 2, wherein this grip comprises one or more walls that resistance can be provided on all directions.

4. as claim 1,2 or 3 described securing members, wherein this fixed component is a flange, and cloth can be sewed up or otherwise be fixed on this flange.

5. as each described securing member in the above-mentioned claim, wherein this fixed component roughly extends the total length of this securing member.

6. as each described securing member in the above-mentioned claim, wherein this tightening member is made by the material of rubbery processing at least.

7. securing member as claimed in claim 6, wherein the material of this rubbery processing comprises plastics or the silicone of rubbery processing or above any combination of silicone, rubbery processing.

8. a flexible securing member that is used for clothes comprises energy first and second tightening members secured together, and wherein at least one in these tightening members made by the material of rubbery processing.

9. flexible securing member as claimed in claim 8, wherein said tightening member comprise male element and female element, wherein should be made by the material of this rubbery processing by mother's element at least.

10. as claim 7 or 8 described flexible securing members, wherein the width of this securing member is substantially less than 3mm.

11. flexible securing member as claimed in claim 10, wherein the width of this securing member is about 2mm.

12. a flexible securing member that is used for clothes comprises energy first and second tightening members secured together, wherein the width of this securing member is substantially less than 3mm.

13. a releasable securing member, its effect as the same detachable folder that buries.

14. an object that is used for clothes comprises at least one as each described securing member that is anchored on another clothes object in the above-mentioned claim.

15. clothes comprise at least two parts, each several part possesses as each described flexible securing member in the claim 1 to 13.

16. system that is used to make clothes, the a plurality of differences and a plurality of equivalent garment pieces that comprise a part that constitutes clothes separately, each described garment pieces possesses as each described flexible securing member in the claim 1 to 13, forms clothes so that the permission different garment pieces is secured together.

17. system as claimed in claim 16, wherein said a plurality of equivalent garment pieces are different aspect design and/or color and/or quality.

18. a system that is used to provide clothes comprises: be used for providing the device of framework between the time spent altogether for designer, textile supplier and clothing merchant; Shared interface between designer, textile supplier and the clothing merchant; And be used for discerning clothes assembly and module diagnostic for a specification form that is used for this shared interface.

19. system as claimed in claim 18, wherein at least a portion of this system is based on software.

20. as claim 18 or 19 described systems, it comprises the device that is used for collecting customer preference information and these feed information is given designer and/or textile supplier.

21. system as claimed in claim 20, it comprises the device that is used for analyzing multiple Customer Information.

22. a system that is used to make clothes comprises: be used to provide the device that client selects from a plurality of different garment pieces, each garment pieces possesses at least one as each described securing member in the claim 1 to 13; Be used for allowing client can do the device of selection from described a plurality of different garment pieces; And be used for supplying the device of these different garment pieces, wherein the garment pieces of being chosen and supplying constitutes a whole clothing.

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