WO2006021259A1 - Methode de soin pour fibres keratiniques - Google Patents

Methode de soin pour fibres keratiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2006021259A1
WO2006021259A1 PCT/EP2005/007156 EP2005007156W WO2006021259A1 WO 2006021259 A1 WO2006021259 A1 WO 2006021259A1 EP 2005007156 W EP2005007156 W EP 2005007156W WO 2006021259 A1 WO2006021259 A1 WO 2006021259A1
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Prior art keywords
acid
composition
preferred
hair
weight
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PCT/EP2005/007156
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jens Delowsky
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Original Assignee
Hans Schwarzkopf Gmbh & Co. Kg
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Priority to EP05771874A priority Critical patent/EP1791602A1/fr
Publication of WO2006021259A1 publication Critical patent/WO2006021259A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair.
  • hair cosmetic preparations include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations.
  • means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role.
  • bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:
  • oxidation colorants For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and Kupplerkom ⁇ components.
  • the developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components.
  • the oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results.
  • dyeing or tinting agents which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are generally much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that a much more undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs much more quickly.
  • the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • special active ingredients for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse.
  • this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.
  • active ingredients both for separate aftertreatment agents and for combination preparations generally have a preferential effect on the hair surface.
  • active ingredients are known which give the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities or prevent splitting.
  • the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers which can be greatly influenced, in particular, by oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and perming.
  • a hair care product should allow the consumer to adjust the care performance of the hair care product individually to the current hair condition. Even a consumer will notice if, for example, his hair is less combed or less shiny after using a dyeing or waving agent. Hair quality varies individually from consumer to consumer. The thickness of the hair also plays a decisive role here. A conventional hair care product can not do this adequately.
  • the active ingredients are packaged and made up separately from the rest of the composition.
  • the consumer receives a kit of a base composition (1) and an active ingredient composition (2).
  • the consumer can thus specifically remove, mix and apply a defined amount of base composition (1) with an amount of active ingredient composition (2) tailored specifically to his hair quality to the respective packaging or a common packaging.
  • this set can be supplemented by a detailed instruction manual.
  • the mixing ratios of the two compositions are largely variable.
  • the basic composition becomes the larger one Provide part of the compositions to be mixed.
  • the consumer can tune the care performance specifically and individually to the condition of his hair.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a process for the purification and care of keratinic fibers, characterized in that immediately prior to application a base composition (1) with an active ingredient composition (2) in the ratio of 99: 1 to 1: 1 based on the base composition with each other are mixed and then applied to the keratinic fibers.
  • a second object of the invention is a nourishing and / or cleansing cosmetic composition consisting of a base composition (1) and an active ingredient composition (2), which are kept separate from each other until use and at a ratio of 99: 1 to each other at the time of use 1: 1 based on the base composition are mixed together.
  • the two compositions can in principle each contain all ingredients contained in cleansing and / or conditioning compositions.
  • the active substance composition (2) contains only highly concentrated solutions of the respective active substances or active substance mixtures in a suitable solvent.
  • Very particular preference is given to using substances which are able to significantly restructure the internal structure of fibers, in particular keratinous fibers, as care active substances. These care substances are described in detail below. In describing the care agents, it is also described whether they are preferably used in the base composition (1) or the active ingredient composition (2).
  • Structural strengthening that is to say restructuring in the context of the invention, is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences.
  • the restoration of the natural strength an essential role.
  • Restructured fibers are distinguished, for example, by an improved gloss or by an improved grip or by easier combing.
  • they have an optimized strength and elasticity.
  • a successful restructuring can be physically detected, for example as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.
  • a detailed description of the method for determining the melting range of hair can be found in DE 196 173 95 A1.
  • the measurement of the combing work or the measurement of the gloss can be used to determine the care properties. The corresponding methods are known to the person skilled in the art.
  • keratinic fibers are understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
  • the essential ingredients of the base composition (1) and the active ingredient composition (2) include fatty substances (D).
  • Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • natural and synthetic cosmetic liquid that is, at a temperature of 40 0 C liquid oil components may also be used in the basic composition, but they are most preferably in the Wirkst ⁇ ff plants (2).
  • fatty acids As fatty acids (DI) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these were, for example, to name the isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • DI fatty acids
  • fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, for example in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 to 15% by weight, based on the particular composition.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols (D2) may be used are saturated, singly or multiply unge ⁇ saturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C 6 - C 30 -, preferably C 0 - C 22 -, and most preferably Cj 2 - C 22 - carbon atoms.
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ®, for example, ⁇
  • Lanette ® O or Lorol ® for example Lorof C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD Ocenol ®, Crodacol ®, for example, Crodacol CS ® 5 Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb 12 ®, ® Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ® 24 available for purchase.
  • the invention also wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the particular composition, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • the use of the fatty alcohols (D2) alone in the base composition (1) is very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (D3) it is possible according to the invention to use solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are spielnem available over the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50% by weight, based on the particular composition, preferably 0.1-20% by weight and more preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the particular composition.
  • the use of the natural or synthetic waxes (D3) alone in the base composition (1) is very particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4) which are most preferably used in the active ingredient composition (2) include, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures which are obtained, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols incurred.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC), n-butyl stearate, Oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit ® IPP) 3 Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ® B), myristy
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecylvestat, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonat, butanediol di-isostearate, Neopentylglykol- dicaprylate, symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with Fettalko ⁇ , for example, described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ® CC),
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I), CH 2 O (CH 2 CH 2 O) 111 R 1
  • R 3 in the R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are independently of one another hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms are provided with the proviso that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and erucic acid, and technical mixtures thereof.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • oil body (D4) in the Wirkstoffmeämmener (2) vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl -n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-
  • the amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body (D4) in the base composition of the invention is usually 0.1 to 30 wt.%, Based on the composition, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the amount of oil bodies (D4) used in the active ingredient composition (2) according to the invention is usually at least 5.0% by weight. Preference is given to amounts of at least 25% by weight and very particularly preferably of at least 50% by weight, based on the active ingredient composition. In a most preferred embodiment, the active ingredient composition (2) contains exclusively these oil bodies (D4).
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the base composition (1) according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the particular composition. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components (D) in the active ingredient composition (2) according to the invention is usually at least 5.0% by weight. Preference is given to amounts of at least 25% by weight and very particularly preferably of at least 50% by weight, based on the active ingredient composition.
  • surfactants (E) are used in the compositions according to the invention. Most preferably, however, the surfactants (E) are used almost exclusively in the base composition (1).
  • a use of the surfactants (E) in the active ingredient composition (2) according to the invention is preferred only under certain formulation-technical requirements. Such a formulation-technical need exists, for example, when the active ingredient must be stabilized in a solvent in the form of a dispersion or emulsion. This may be necessary, for example, in non-polar active substances such as silicone oils.
  • surfactants is understood as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on the upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases.
  • anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group
  • amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge
  • cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group
  • nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong Dipolm ⁇ mente and in aqueous solution are strongly hydrated.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. Example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.
  • anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 ° C. Atoms (soaps),
  • Alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 16,
  • Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
  • linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms
  • Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms are alpha-sulfofatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms
  • Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x 0 or 1 to 12,
  • Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms,
  • R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen, a radical (CH 2 CH 2 O) n R 2 or X
  • n is from 1 to 10
  • X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , where R 3 to R 6 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 hydrocarbon radical, is a sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of the formula (II) R 7 CO (Al k O) n SO 3 M (EMI) in the R 7 CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH 2 CH 2 , CHCH 3 CH 2 and / or CH 2 CHCH 3 , n is from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,
  • R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • x, y and z are in total O, or numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10
  • X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal
  • Typical examples in the sense monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts.
  • monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (III-III) are used in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described, for example, in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, US Pat. DE-Al 42 04 700 or AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
  • Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO H or -SO 3 (') group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylamino ethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI
  • Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 -C 24 -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and for the formation of internal salts are capable.
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12 -C 18 -acylsarcosine.
  • Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group e.g. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or methyl
  • R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • w is numbers of 1 to 20, amine oxides
  • Hydroxy mixed ethers as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide onto sorbitan fatty acid esters, for example the polysorbates,
  • R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
  • G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
  • p is a number from 1 to 10.
  • the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
  • the preferred ones Alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside are thus alkyl and / or Alkenyloli- goglucoside.
  • the index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of monoglycerides and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10.
  • the value p for a certain alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl- and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis.
  • the alkyl or alkenyl radical R 15 can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above.
  • Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci 2 / i 4 ⁇ coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3
  • R 5 CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their preparation, reference may be made to US Pat. Nos.
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose.
  • the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, such as. she . represented by the formula (E4-IV):
  • the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 is CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or those technical mixtures is!
  • fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative become.
  • the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
  • the preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.
  • the alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and may be both linear and branched. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals.
  • Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl.
  • oxo-alcohols compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.
  • nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These may preferably be present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the particular composition. Amounts of 0.5-15% by weight are preferred, and most preferred are amounts of 0.5-7.5% by weight.
  • the compounds used as surfactant with alkyl groups may each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
  • the surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-25% by weight, based on the particular composition according to the invention.
  • quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g.
  • the long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as structural element.
  • Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ® distributed.
  • Cationic surfactants which are highly concentrated and flowable, that is to say freely available in a concentration of greater than 50% by weight of active substance, can most preferably be present alone or in combination with other active ingredients in the active ingredient composition (2) applies in particular for example for the commercial product Dehyquart L-80.
  • alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
  • a Erfin dung particularly suitable according to compound from this group is that available under the name Tegoamid ® S 18 commercially stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • the cationic surfactants (E5) are preferably present in the base composition used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the particular composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the cationic surfactants are preferably present in amounts of at least 50% by weight, based on the particular composition. Quantities of at least 65% by weight are preferred.
  • Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F).
  • Emulsifiers cause at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus the emulsion stabilize.
  • Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions.
  • An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants.
  • the selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D. Dörfler, Grenz perennial- and Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994".
  • Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable Phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g., soybean beans) are understood.
  • Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hy- droxystearat (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product)
  • the emulsifiers (F) are very particularly advantageously used almost exclusively in the basic composition (1).
  • a use of the emulsifiers (F) in the active ingredient composition (2) according to the invention is preferred only under certain formulation-technical requirements.
  • Such a formulation-technical need exists, for example, when ' the active ingredient must be stabilized in a solvent in the form of a dispersion or emulsion. This may be necessary, for example, in non-polar active substances such as silicone oils.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the particular composition.
  • the. Compositions according to the invention comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the methods described in the Römpp Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, ( 1997), page 1764, listed definitions.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the present invention also encompasses the recognition that polymers (G) may be advantageously included in the compositions of the invention.
  • polymers are therefore added to the compositions used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven effective.
  • the polymers (G) are used almost exclusively in the base composition (1).
  • a use of the polymers (G) in the active ingredient composition (2) according to the invention is preferred only under certain conditions. This is the case, for example, when the polymer in question is present in high concentration in a cosmetically acceptable solvent. Then it can be used in the drug solution (2).
  • the polymer (G) must be at least 25% by weight dissolved in such a solvent. It is very particularly preferred if the polymer (G) is dissolved to at least 40% by weight.
  • Such polymers are known, for example, from DE 4401708.
  • Cationic polymers (G1) are polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • R 1 is -H or -CH 3
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • m 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • n is a natural number
  • X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (GI-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers those according to the invention are preferred for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • R 1 is a methyl group
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups
  • m has the value 2.
  • Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
  • a particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
  • the crosslinking can, if desired, be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose.
  • poly olefinically unsaturated compounds for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivative
  • Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.
  • the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight.
  • Such Polymer ⁇ are dispersions under the names Salcare ® SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, .wei ⁇ tere components: mineral oil (INCI-B esignation: Mineral Oil) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene pylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-l-Trideceth-6)) and Salcare ® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: a mixture of diesters of Propylengly- KOL with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene glycolic col Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-l-Trideceth-6)) are commercially available.
  • Copolymers with monomer units of the formula (GI-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C [. 4- alkyl ester and methacrylic acid C M -aütylester. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, commercially available as about 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare ® SC 92nd
  • Celquat ® and Polymer JR ® are commercially available.
  • the compounds Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ® ® 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
  • honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
  • Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodi methicone), Dow Corning ® 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt), diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80),
  • Polyquaternium 2 Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as 845 (manufactured by ISP) as commercial products copolymer Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ® HS HO 5 Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS available 370 are.
  • cationic polymers are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, when pH values were quaternary ammonium and thus cationic.
  • temporary cationic polymers usually contain an amino group which, when pH values were quaternary ammonium and thus cationic.
  • chitosan and its derivatives, such as / 101 are freely translated commercially, for example under the trade names Hydagen CMF ® 5 Hydagen HCMF ®, Kytamer ® PC .and Chitolam ® NB.
  • preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ® JR 400, Hydagen ® HCMF and Kytamer ® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey Deri ⁇ derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.
  • cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook ", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and cited commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl
  • the anionic polymers (G2) which can support the action of the active substance complex (A) according to the invention are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as sole or co-monomer have been found to be particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt may be present.
  • homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid which is commercially available for example under the name Rheothik ® l 1-80.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer.
  • anionic monomers reference is made to the abovementioned substances.
  • Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammo ⁇ nium salt is present.
  • This copolymer can also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyl oxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyl oxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyl oxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is SEPPIC ent hold in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305th
  • This compound which in addition to the polymer component contains a Kohieswasserstoffmischung (Ci 3 -Ci 4
  • anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
  • Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether are also color-retaining polymers.
  • a cross-linked with 1,9-decadiene maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name Stabileze® ® QM.
  • amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers in the compositions according to the invention.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO " - or -SO 3 " groups, and those polymers comprising - COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is sold under the Be ⁇ drawing Amphomer ® available acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylamino ethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more Mono ⁇ mers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters.
  • Preferred amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially of one another
  • A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid
  • compositions according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4) in another embodiment.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers as are marketed, for example under theress ⁇ sign Luviskol ® (BASF).
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy- as for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and
  • Siloxanes These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point at normal pressure is above 20 (K 0 C.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyalkylsiloxanes. phenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes containing amine and / or hydroxy groups.
  • the preparations used contain a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
  • the polymers (G) are contained in the base composition (1) according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on this composition. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
  • the highly concentrated polymers (G) are contained in the active ingredient composition (2) according to the invention preferably in amounts of at least 10% by weight, based on this composition. Amounts of at least 25% by weight. are particularly preferred and amounts of at least 40% by weight are most preferred.
  • only one of the two compositions preferably contains a polymer (G).
  • a polymer (G) is included only in the base composition (1).
  • the effect of the compositions (1 and 2) by UV filter (I) can be increased.
  • the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates ), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ® M 40,, 2-PhenylbenzimidazoI-sulfonic acid 5-and Uvasorb MET ®, ® Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ® 436.0) the potassium, sodium - and triethanolamine (Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid; Parsol ® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ®), 3,3 '- (l, 4-phenylenedimethylene) bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicycIo- [2.2.1] hept-l-yl-methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof,
  • water-insoluble UV filters are those which dissolve in water at not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight, at 20 ° C. Furthermore, these compounds should be soluble in the usual cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-%). The use of water-insoluble UV filters can therefore be preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters which have a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group.
  • this group can be derived from the known UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino group. function, is replaced.
  • Structural parts U 5 derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filters can be in both the UVA (315-400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range Filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U also as a function of structural part Q, is preferably selected such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter is at the absorption maximum above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group.
  • This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the structural part U represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, especially an alkylene group of 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a compound between the structural portion U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) X -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 are independently of one another 4 alkyl groups, R 3 is a C ⁇ alkyl group or a benzyl group and X "is a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably represents the number 3
  • R 1 and R 2 each represent a methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically acceptable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and also organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the compounds keeps handy er ⁇ as commercial products cinnamic acid-trimethylammonium chloride (Incro- -_qua ⁇ IV_-2.83) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions of the invention, the base composition (1) and the active ingredient composition (2), usually in amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the respective composition. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred. Very particular preference is given to using only UV-insoluble UV filters (I) in the active substance composition (2).
  • 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J) can be used.
  • the sodium salt is most preferred.
  • the amounts used in the base composition (1) according to the invention is from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) in the compositions of the invention. It may be preferable to use these substances exclusively in one of the two compositions. Very particular preference is given to the use of these substances exclusively in the basic composition (1).
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of the Re ⁇ tinols.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration.
  • the base composition (1) used according to the invention preferably contains the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the base composition according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the composition.
  • - Vitamin B 5 pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • ein ⁇ settable derivatives of panthenol are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are for example the. Panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its Monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin Bs type are contained in the base composition (1) according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on this composition. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • - Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the base composition (1) according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the composition. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the base composition (1) according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the composition, contain.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6 ⁇ i?) - 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-cd-imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is contained in the base composition (1) according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • compositions (1 and 2) according to the invention can also be increased by the use of plant extracts (L).
  • plant extracts (L) it may be preferred to use the plant extracts (L) only in one of the two compositions. Very particularly preferred is the use of the plant extracts exclusively in the active ingredient composition (2).
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, hama melis, hops, valerian, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, are particularly preferred.
  • Grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, toadstool, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • water, Al ⁇ alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extracting agent for the preparation of said plant extracts.
  • alcohols lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as the sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and, as solvent, the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.
  • compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.
  • plant extracts (L) are used in the base composition (1), they are used there in amounts known and customary to those skilled in the art, that is from 0.01 to 20% by weight.
  • the plant extracts (L) are at least 10 wt.%, Preferably at least 25 wt.% And most preferably at least 40 wt.% Based on the composition (2).
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentaned
  • short-chain carboxylic acids may additionally be enthaloten in the compositions (1 and 2).
  • Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750.
  • preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.
  • the short-chain carboxylic acids according to the invention may have one, two, three or more carboxy groups.
  • Preferred within the meaning of the invention are carboxylic acids having a plurality of carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids.
  • the carboxy groups may be wholly or partly present as esters, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amido-dim, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester.
  • the carboxylic acids according to the invention may, of course, be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring skeleton.
  • the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C 1 -C 8 -alkyl, C 2 -C 8 -alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkyl, C 2 -C 8 -hydroxyalkenyl , Aminomethyl, C 2 -C 8 -aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups.
  • Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups.
  • substituents in ⁇ - position are hydroxy, alkoxy and amino optionally substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals.
  • preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are also the phosphonic and phosphate esters.
  • carboxylic acids examples include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid , Crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o, m, p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluoic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4 '-Dicyano
  • Carbamoyloctanoic acid 1, 2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxy-phthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group consisting of is formed by compounds of general formula (NI),
  • n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally contains 1 to 3 methyl or dicarboxylic acids which form from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) formally by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.
  • NI dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI)
  • Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (NI) are known in the literature. A production process can be found, for example, in US Pat. No. 3,753,968. German Patent 22 50 055 discloses the use of these dicarboxylic acids in liquid soap masses. German Offenlegungsschrift 28 33 291 discloses deodorizing agents which contain zinc or magnesium salts of these dicarboxylic acids. Finally, from German Patent Application 35 03 618 means for washing and rinsing the hair are known in which by adding these dicarboxylic acids a noticeably improved hair cosmetic effect of the water-soluble ionic polymers contained in the means is obtained. Finally, from German Patent Application 197 54 053 means for hair treatment are known which have nourishing effects.
  • the dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reacting polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization.
  • a polyunsaturated fatty acid as the dicarboxylic acid component.
  • Preferred is the linoleic acid obtainable from natural fats and oils.
  • the monocarboxylic acid component in particular, acrylic acid, but also e.g. Methacrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferred.
  • mixtures of isomers are formed in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be used according to the invention as well as the pure compounds.
  • those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds according to formula (NI) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water are also usable according to the invention be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.
  • the dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid.
  • Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ® ® 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).
  • carboxylic acids according to the invention which have been mentioned above by way of example, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be used according to the invention.
  • examples of such salts are the alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, zinc salts and ammonium salts, of which the mono-, alkaline earth metal, and ammonium salts are also included.
  • Di- and trimethyl, ethyl and hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are to be understood.
  • neutralized acids can very particularly preferably be used with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as, for example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine.
  • hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be particularly preferred.
  • Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid.
  • esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid are esters of ⁇ -hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid.
  • Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for example, fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols.
  • the esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred.
  • Esters of this type are commercially available, eg under the trademark Cosmacol® ® EniChem, Augusta Industriale.
  • Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc.
  • L-alanyl-L-proline polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride.
  • ⁇ -amino acids and their derivatives such as ⁇ -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, silk, elastin, collagen, keratin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), DiaMin® ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • protein hydrolysates Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold for example under the names Lamepon® ® (Cognis), Lexein ® (Inolex), Crolastin ® (Croda) or crotein ® (Croda).
  • the protein hydrolysates (P) are preferably present in the base composition (1) in concentrations of from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight.
  • silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. First of all, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which, according to the invention, are particularly preferred.
  • the dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and be branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S 1
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the Viscosities are from 100 to 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are from 1000 to 5,000,000 cPs, b.anz particularly preferred viscosities are from 10,000 to 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.0 l ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethiconols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethiconols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is from the ratio of the unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols can be very particularly preferred.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abu OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Em
  • dimethiconols (SI) When the dimethiconols (SI) are contained in the base composition, these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially from 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition. According to the invention, however, the use of the dimethiconols (S1) in the active substance composition (2) is preferred. This contains the dimethiconols (S1) preferably in amounts of at least 25% by weight, more preferably in amounts of 40% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 70% by weight. In a very particularly preferred embodiment, the dimethiconols (S1) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).
  • Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2 - 1): (SiR 1 S) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O -) ⁇ - (SiRS) (S2 - 1)
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2 - II):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) S CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the Dimeticone are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethicones may already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of Dimethieone can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the conventional methods for emulsification known in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicones can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and on most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethicones are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethicones are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethicones can be very particularly preferred.
  • these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconol based on the composition.
  • the use of the dimethicones (S2) in the active substance composition (2) is preferred.
  • the dimethicones (S2) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).
  • Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones.
  • Dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formulas:
  • Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the groups represented by R 1 and R 2 include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, - CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 - , -OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • R 1 and R 2 are methyl, phenyl and C 2 to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred.
  • PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical.
  • Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each independently run from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of Dimethicone lie between 1,000 D and 10000000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 0 C by means of a glass capillary viscometer according to Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 dated 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are 1000-5000000 cps, particularly preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses that the dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as adjuvants as auxiliaries for producing the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process.
  • Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention is 0.01 ⁇ m to 10000 ⁇ m, preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ m, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ m and most preferably 0.01 to 10 microns.
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs by impurities of the respective monomers randomly.
  • branched dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of unbranched monomers, that is, the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.
  • these compositions contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.% Dimethiconecopolyol based on the composition.
  • the use of the dimethicone copolyols (S3) in the active substance composition (2) is preferred according to the invention.
  • the dimethicone copolyols (S 3) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).
  • Aminofunctional silicones, or also called amodimethicones (S4) are silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.
  • Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (S4-1)
  • R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms
  • Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R 1 HZ, wherein R 1 is a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms;
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • "c” is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3
  • x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25
  • y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000
  • M is a suitable silicone end group
  • Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, AHyI, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl,
  • R 1 examples include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2 CH 2 SCH 2 CH 2 -, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 -, - OCH 2 CH 2 -, -OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 - , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) C (O) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3 CC (O) OCH 2 CH 2 -, - C 6 H 4 C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 CH 2 C 6 H 4 -; and - (CHz) 3 C (O) SCH 2 CH 2 -.
  • Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
  • a possible formula for Z is NH (CH 2 ) Z NH 2 , wherein z is 1 or more.
  • Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH 2 ) Z (CH 2 ) zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, this structure including diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
  • Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
  • Z is - N (CH 2 ) 2 (CH 2 ) z z NX 2 or -NX 2 , wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is O
  • Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 .
  • "a” assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2
  • "b” assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3
  • "a” + “b” is less than or equal to 3
  • R 0 SiO (4. C) / 2 units range from about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably from about 1: 5 to about 1:65, and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20.
  • the various variable substituents in the above formula may be different for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II)
  • G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -
  • a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
  • b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
  • n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
  • R ' is a monovalent radical selected from O -N (R ") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N (RT) 2 O -N (R") 2 O -N + (R 1 O 3 A " o -N + H (R 1 O 2 A " o -N + H 2 (R 1 OA- o -N (R 1 O-CH 2 -CH 2 -N + R 11 H 2 A-, where each R" is the same or various radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the 2 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , --CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , and A represents an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide,
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)
  • silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV)
  • R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m
  • nl and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + nl + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (nl + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.
  • silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g ,
  • the amine number stands for the milliequivalent amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.
  • S4 amodimethicones
  • these compositions contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially 0 , 5 to 5 wt.%.
  • Amodimethicone based on the composition.
  • the use of the amodimethicones (S4) in the active substance composition (2) is preferred according to the invention.
  • the amodimethicones (S4) can be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).
  • the invention also encompasses the finding that a mixture of at least 2 different silicones can be used in the compositions (1 and 2) according to the invention.
  • Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example, dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic dimethiconols.
  • a very particularly preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or dimethicone, at least one further non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol - as well as at least one amino-functional silicone. If different silicones are used as a mixture, the mixing ratio is largely variable.
  • all silicones used for mixing are used in a ratio of 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture.
  • a ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture largely in a ratio of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.
  • these compositions contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight, and especially 0.5 to 5% by weight of silicone mixture based on the composition.
  • the use of the mixture of different silicones in the active ingredient composition (2) is preferred.
  • This contains the corresponding Mixture preferably in amounts of at least 15% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts of 25% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of at least 50% by weight.
  • the mixture of silicones may be used as the sole component of the active ingredient composition (2).
  • both silicone polymers, dimethiconols and amodimethicones can be used together with the imidazolinium compounds of the formula I.
  • the mixing ratio of the two silicone polymers is 99: 1 to 1:99. It is preferably -30. : 70_ to 70: 30. A most preferred mixing ratio is 1: 1.
  • Agents preferred according to the invention contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.5 to 5 % By weight of such a mixture of the silicone polymers according to the invention.
  • these preparations may in principle contain all other components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic compositions.
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabicum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
  • Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins
  • Solvents and mediators such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
  • Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazol, active ingredients such as Allantoin and Bisabolol,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • the active substance composition (2) contains exclusively individual active substances or mixtures of active substances selected from the natural and synthetic oil bodies (D4), the polymers (G) dissolved in at least 25% by weight, the UV-insoluble in water. Filtering (I), the oil-soluble plant extracts (L) and the silicone oils (S). In a most preferred embodiment, the active substance composition (2) contains exclusively individual active ingredients or mixtures of active substances selected from the natural and synthetic oil bodies (D4), the water-insoluble UV filters (I) and the silicone oils (S). With regard to the manner in which the compositions (1 and 2) according to the invention are applied to the keratinic fiber, in particular human hair, there are no principal restrictions.
  • compositions of these compositions (1 and 2) are creams, lotions, solutions, waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (called phase inversion emulsions, PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions as well as gels.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 5 and 11, values of 6 to 10 being particularly preferred.
  • the pH values of the base composition and the active ingredient composition may differ.
  • any acid or base which can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N' tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.
  • the separately prepared compositions (1 and 2) are also each packaged separately in separate containers.
  • Suitable containers are all those known to those skilled and suitable for hair treatment means packaging means such as tubes, bottles or crucibles into consideration.
  • the base composition (1) is filled in such a way in one of the mentioned packaging, so that it can be removed from it in portions of at least 2.5 to 20 g in a slightly dosed manner. This can be done, for example, in the case of a squeeze tube so that marks are attached to the outside of the tube in 2.5 ml increments. These labels then allow the withdrawal of defined volumes of the base composition. In the case of a crucible, for example, an enclosed spoon with a defined filling volume of about 2.5 ml can allow the removal of defined amounts.
  • the active ingredient composition (2) is very particularly preferably packaged in a packaging from which the composition can be taken exactly volume-metered.
  • the accuracy of the volume dosage is at least 0.1 ml. Particularly preferred is a dosing accuracy of 0.25 ml and whole more preferably at least 0.5 ml.
  • a Dosierverpackung a bottle, tube or crucible is called with an added pipette.
  • the package may also be accompanied by a pipette for dosing.
  • the lid of the packaging of the base composition is designed so that it is possible to mix the corresponding volumes of the two compositions in this lid.
  • the lid can have a curvature and can accommodate volumes of at least 5 to 50 ml.
  • the mixing and subsequent application of the ready-mixed from the two compositions can be facilitated with a brush or spatula. All necessary packages are then offered in a common outer packaging.
  • the two compositions can be packaged in a corresponding two-chamber package. , Such packages are commercially available. The two compositions could then be separated and removed in variable amounts from the respective compartments and mixed together in a separate container.
  • a two-chamber tube can be used.
  • Such tubes are described for example in DE 102004009424.
  • the volume of the products to be removed from the individual containers is variably adjustable. The two products are then mixed either in a separate mixing container or in the hand immediately before use.
  • a two-chamber container which consists of two dosing dispensers.
  • Each dosing dispenser can do it's own separately and independently of the other dispenser with respect to the pumping system are regulated so that the respective container to be taken product quantities are variable. For example, this can be done by two cartridges, in each of which there is an airtight trailing piston. The mixing of the two compositions can ideally take place in the dispenser head.
  • Such packages are offered commercially, for example, by the company DIALPACK GmbH.
  • hair-remaining preparations are understood as meaning those preparations which are not rinsed out of the hair within the scope of the treatment after a period of a few seconds to one hour with the aid of water or an aqueous solution. Rather, the preparations remain until the next shampooing, i. usually more than 12 hours, on the hair.
  • these preparations are formulated as a hair conditioner or hair conditioner.
  • the preparations according to the invention according to this embodiment can be rinsed out after expiry of a contact time with water or an agent which is at least predominantly hydrous; however, they may be left on the hair as stated above. It may be preferred to apply the preparation according to the invention to the hair before the application of a cleansing agent, a waving agent or other hair treatment agents.
  • the preparation according to the invention serves as a structural protection for the following applications.
  • the agents according to the invention may, for example, also be cleaning agents, such as shampoos, nourishing agents, such as rinses, firming agents, such as hair setting agents, mousses, styling gels and hair drier as well. act as a pre-treatment or post-rinse used in a permanent waving or staining process.
  • the hairs were parted in the middle of 5 test persons each with normal hair and dyed hair.
  • 5-7 ml of the respective total compositions to be tested were placed in towel-wet, ie slightly wet hair, and massaged in.
  • the products of Table 1 were tested and evaluated by four trained experts in each case on four models, each with different hair quality, in the half-side test.
  • the condition of the hair before the treatment was also evaluated by four trained experts.
  • the care products were selected or determined to be mixed amounts of the base composition (1) with the active ingredient composition (2).
  • the criteria used were wet combability, dry combability, wet hair grip, dry hair, volume and hair shine. ⁇ -
  • Vl Schauma conditioner for normal hair with the ingredients according to the INCI -
  • Active ingredient composition (2) (2):
  • the rating was made so that an equal power means a 0.
  • a better behavior of the formulation according to the invention is evaluated as follows: 1 means slightly better, 2 means better and 3 means significantly better. Correspondingly reversed means -1 a slightly better behavior of the comparison recipe, etc.
  • a rating in 0.5 note intervals was performed. NB does not mean rated.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations traitantes cosmétiques et/ou des préparations détergentes cosmétiques contenant une composition de base (1) et une composition de principe actif (2). Les deux préparations demeurent séparées l'une de l'autre, jusqu'à leur utilisation et ne sont mélangées et utilisées qu'à ce moment, dans un rapport compris entre 99:1 et 1:1, par rapport à la préparation de base, ce qui permet d'obtenir un lavage et un traitement personnalisés, en fonction de l'état présent des cheveux.
PCT/EP2005/007156 2004-08-26 2005-07-02 Methode de soin pour fibres keratiniques WO2006021259A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP05771874A EP1791602A1 (fr) 2004-08-26 2005-07-02 Methode de soin pour fibres keratiniques

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102004041569.2 2004-08-26
DE200410041569 DE102004041569A1 (de) 2004-08-26 2004-08-26 Verfahren zur Pflege keratinischer Fasern

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WO2006021259A1 true WO2006021259A1 (fr) 2006-03-02

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DE102012219587A1 (de) * 2012-10-25 2014-04-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Klares Pflegespray mit gesteigerter Leistung

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030144160A1 (en) * 2002-01-16 2003-07-31 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal cleansing compositions containing cleansing and skin active phases separated by one or more packaging barriers
US20040047812A1 (en) * 2002-05-31 2004-03-11 L'oreal Aerosol device comprising a hair treatment composition, and hair treatment process
EP1402878A1 (fr) * 2002-09-30 2004-03-31 l'Oreal SA Compositions comprenant au moins un composant de silicone, et au moins un composant aminé, et leur utilisations
EP1426037A1 (fr) * 2002-12-04 2004-06-09 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique des matières kératiniques impliquant la libération contrôlée de principes actifs aromatiques à partir de particules de polymère aromatique.
WO2004050049A1 (fr) * 2002-11-28 2004-06-17 Kao Corporation Composition de decoloration ou de coloration capillaire

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20030144160A1 (en) * 2002-01-16 2003-07-31 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal cleansing compositions containing cleansing and skin active phases separated by one or more packaging barriers
US20040047812A1 (en) * 2002-05-31 2004-03-11 L'oreal Aerosol device comprising a hair treatment composition, and hair treatment process
EP1402878A1 (fr) * 2002-09-30 2004-03-31 l'Oreal SA Compositions comprenant au moins un composant de silicone, et au moins un composant aminé, et leur utilisations
WO2004050049A1 (fr) * 2002-11-28 2004-06-17 Kao Corporation Composition de decoloration ou de coloration capillaire
EP1426037A1 (fr) * 2002-12-04 2004-06-09 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique des matières kératiniques impliquant la libération contrôlée de principes actifs aromatiques à partir de particules de polymère aromatique.

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See also references of EP1791602A1 *

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DE102004041569A1 (de) 2006-03-02

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