WO2006015675A1

WO2006015675A1 - Skin-cosmetic preparation based on multi- unsaturated fats

Info

Publication number: WO2006015675A1
Application number: PCT/EP2005/007415
Authority: WO
Inventors: Wilfried Rähse
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2004-08-04
Filing date: 2005-07-08
Publication date: 2006-02-16
Also published as: DE102004037753A1

Abstract

The invention relates to skin-cosmetic preparations containing active complexes having advantageous effects upon the skin, particularly with regard to improvements in moisture enrichment, lipid provision and elasticity of the skin. The active complexes correspond substantially to the full spectrum of natural components of healthy skin and, when combined, enable optimum skin care. The invention also relates to a product, a substrate and a moulded item containing said preparations.

Description

SKIN COSMETIC PREPARATION BASED ON MULTIPLE UNSATURATED FATS

The invention relates to a skin cosmetic preparation comprising at least eight active ingredients in four specific active complexes, as well as the use of this preparation. Furthermore, the invention relates to a product, a substrate and a shaped body, which each contain this Zu¬ preparation.

The human skin forms the interface of the human organism to the environment and therefore it has important protective functions, for example against the penetration of foreign substances, against mechanical stress or against adverse climatic influences. In addition, the skin fulfills a variety of physiological functions, e.g. temperature regulation, regulation of water balance or vitamin D synthesis. Furthermore, the skin is the seat of sensory cells for the perception of pressure, temperature, pain. A healthy skin is therefore of great importance for humans.

A very important component of the skin is, for example, the so-called hydrolipid layer. This surface film on the skin (acid mantle) is a layer consisting essentially of certain fats and fatty acids, amino acids, organic and inorganic salts and, above all, water, which has a pH of 5 to 6 and its components, at least in the Case of healthy skin, to be constantly replicated. This hydrolipid layer, together with the horny layer, forms an effective barrier against chemical, microbiological and mechanical effects and, moreover, also serves as an important barrier for the delivery of water to the body. In this way, the hydrolipid and horny layer contribute substantially to maintaining the functional capability of tissues and cells.

The maintenance of these comprehensive functions of the skin makes it absolutely necessary to prevent their damage and disease, for example by an adequate skin protection and an optimal cosmetic skin care.

Skin care products are generally used in cosmetics and dermatology to help the skin maintain or return to its natural state of equilibrium. find and give her advantageously also an even better protection against external influences.

For example, changed by external influences such as weather or environmental influences

Properties of the skin should therefore be restored by adequate skin care products and possible damage to the skin by such or other actions should be prevented.

The skin condition should generally be improved. The natural aging process of the skin should be counteracted. Damaged skin should be relieved and cared for, so that it can regenerate again.

Skin care and skin protection preparations which claim to serve parts of the aforementioned purposes are commercially available. High-quality skincare and treatment agents are also expected not only to protect the skin from adverse effects and to care for them, but also to counteract endogenous skin damage. At the very least, however, its application should also be possible for people with endogenously caused skin damage without producing a symptom enhancement. This aspect is particularly important for people with a predisposition to atopic dermatitis, hives, psoriasis, ichthyosis, dyskeratosis or similar diseases of great importance, as well as those who have a particularly sensitive skin or a predisposition to skin irritation or - impurities , For this reason, skin care and treatment agents should also be prepared so that the skin is under no circumstances exposed to an additional burden during treatment with these agents, which results for example from certain ingredients of these agents and possibly leads to a new skin irritation which is induced by the agent application.

Against this background, the object of the present invention was to provide a skin-cosmetic preparation which meets the aforementioned requirements, the use of which preserves and restores the barrier function of the skin, the preservation or improvement of the elasticity of the skin Providing the skin with moisture and fat, the protection of the skin from drying out and advantageously the retardation of skin aging is ensured, but in particular the improvement of the skin elasticity is achieved. This object is achieved according to the invention by a skin-cosmetic preparation which comprises at least eight, preferably natural or nature-identical, active ingredients in a total amount of at least 20% by weight, advantageously at least 25% by weight, in particular at least 30% by weight. % and at least the following four active complexes comprises: a) acid buffer consisting of at least one acid and a salt b) vitamin complex consisting of at least two vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors c) moisture regulators consisting of at least two non-ionic active ingredients d ) at least 3 wt .-%, preferably at least 5 wt .-% of natural fatty oils, the iodine numbers of more than 95 and preferably more than

70% C-18 fatty acids.

It has been found that the preparation according to the invention contributes very well to the maintenance and protection of the physiological skin balance. It has also been found that such a preparation of the skin helps particularly well to store moisture, so that the Feuch¬ activity content of the skin is improved and sustainable, d. H. is stabilized for a period of at least about 24 hours after application, advantageously also beyond. Skin moisture increases overall. The fat content of the skin, surprisingly also of atopic skin, increases markedly, but advantageously without the skin shining externally or appearing greasy, which is surprising. The preparation also has skin-healing properties, which is particularly beneficial with regard to atopic skin. Skin healing and regeneration are accelerated. The preparation protects the skin, especially sensitive skin from external influences. The preparation is very easy to apply and very well distributed on the skin, absorbs very quickly and does not greasy. Elasticity and firmness of the skin are significantly increased by the preparation.

The skin feels tight, without creating a feeling of tension. The general appearance of the skin is improved or beautified, the general skin condition is improved, the skin surface is noticeably strengthened and smoothed, skin roughness is reduced. The skin appears silky, dull and fine pored. The natural metabolism of the skin is activated and supported, which leads to a regeneration and (re) vitalization of the skin.

The skin is protected not only from harmful environmental influences, from skin irritation and redness, but also from visible traces of premature skin aging. The skin aging is slowed down. The formation of wrinkles is prevented and existing wrinkles are alleviated or reduced. The skin feels smooth and supple as a result of using the preparation. Advantageously, the reduction of fine lines, wrinkles or other unwanted textures of the skin surface takes place rapidly, preferably after a single application with an effective duration of advantageously at least 12 hours, in particular of at least 24 hours.

The effect thus does not occur only after application of the preparation over a relatively long period of time, for example 1-2 weeks, but preferably already after the first application, ie suddenly. Thus, a sudden improvement of the skin surface and skin properties overall is achieved. This applies in particular to skin moisture and elasticity. Skin hydration and skin elasticity improve even with a single application. Advantageously, the resilience of the skin after deformation is increased after the first application, preferably with a duration of action of several hours. The overall effect of the preparation is unexpected and appears to be due to the increasing interaction of the four active complexes. A preparation according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to offer the skin a substantially comprehensive complete spectrum of its own constituents and thus to achieve maximum care success without burdening the skin.

The term "complex" in connection with the terms acid buffer, Vitamin¬ complex, moisture regulators, fatty oils, which each form such an active complex, that this each consists of at least 2 substances, preferably from at least 3 substances which interact.

With regard to the overall effect of the preparation, it is particularly advantageous if the iodine counts of the fatty oils are above 105, preferably above 110, advantageously above 115, in a further advantageous manner above 120, even more advantageously above 125 and in particular above 130.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation is present as an emulsion, preferably as an o / w emulsion, in particular as an o / w nanoemulsion, wherein the droplet size d _{50 of} the nanoemulsion is preferably not greater than 700 nm, more preferably not greater than 500 nm, advantageously not greater than 300 nm, more preferably not greater than 250 nm, even more advantageously not greater than 200 nm, in a highly advantageous manner is not greater than 150 nm, in particular does not exceed a value of 120 nm, and / or wherein the droplet size d _{50 of} the nanoemulsion is preferably not less than 10 nm, advantageously not less than 25 nm, more preferably not less than 40 nm is ins¬ particular a value of 60 nm not below.

The droplet size is preferably determined on the diluted preparation by laser diffraction, advantageously by means of laser diffraction according to Malvern, for example with a Maillvern Mastersizer 2000, wherein the dilution is advantageously carried out with water, preferably at a ratio of the preparation to water of 1: 500 in Vol .-%.

D ₅₀ is the feature value at which the distribution sum of droplet diameters becomes 0.5 = 50%. For example, the statement "d ₅₀ = a μm" means that 50 (mass)% of the droplets considered have a diameter greater than a μm and 50 (mass)% a smaller diameter than a μm.

Advantageously, the nanoemulsion penetrates even faster into the skin and is able to transport the active ingredients contained even better into deeper layers of the skin, so that they can develop there an increased effect. Overall, the described advantages of the present invention with respect to the skin, i. the positive regulation of the skin condition, further enhanced if the preparations are present as an emulsion, preferably as an o / w emulsion, in particular as an o / w nanoemulsion. In particular, the stability of the preparation and also its dispersibility on the skin are further improved, as well as the skin elasticity is further increased, as well as the rapidity of the onset of action is further improved. Advantageously, this embodiment can store large amounts of moisture even in deeper layers of the skin over many hours, preferably up to 24 hours, in particular over 24 hours, so that the skin becomes elastic and soft for a very long time, even after a single application remains.

Advantageously, the emulsion may also be in the form of w / o (nano) emulsion, but preference is given to an o / w (nano) emulsion. In w / o emulsions, fat contents generally remain directly on the skin, giving an occlusive effect (sealing the skin) and thus preventing it from drying out. As a rule, in the case of w / o emulsions, a fat film is left behind, which can be perceived as disturbing. In contrast, in o / w emulsions, moisture is transported to the upper layers of the skin and held in the skin. An occlu- effect of the The care effect of an o / w-based preparation therefore depends very much on the effectiveness of the moisturizing complex, in particular on the overall formulation, ie the combined action of the active complexes used. Since the overall formulation in the case according to the invention leads to increased effectiveness as a result of the increasing interaction of the active complexes, the demands placed on an o / w emulsion are more than fulfilled and sealing of the skin is not necessary.

When the acid buffer of the cosmetic preparation in a pH range of 4.0 to 6.0 puf¬ fert, wherein at least one acid (and / or salt thereof) is contained, which is preferably ausge¬ selected from i) the group of barrier-stabilizing Acids, preferably from linoleic acid, linolenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, 11-hydroxypalmitic acid, protein hydrolyzate condensates (eg palmitoylglutamic acid), hyaluronic acid and / or ii) from the group of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, advantageously fruit acids, particular lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid and / or tartaric acid, and ß-hydroxycarboxylic acids, advantageously acids having additional preserving character such as formic acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid, and sulfonic acid and / or their derivatives or mixtures thereof, iii) from the group of Amino acids and / or derivatives thereof is then a preferred embodiment.

Acid buffers of this embodiment enhance the advantages of the present invention with regard to the skin, in particular the regulation of the skin condition, advantageously even in atopic skin.

Advantageously, such an acid buffer acts synergistically with the natural buffer system of the skin, which is essentially composed of a lactic acid-lactate system, water-soluble compounds of the horny layer, tallow, numerous amino acids, and overall the result is an improved, very effective buffer system to maintain the pH of the skin. Surprisingly, the stability of the preparation is further improved, eben¬ so the skin elasticity is further increased.

In addition, results from the specific acid buffer in particular by combination with γ-linolenic acid-containing oils improved, because faster skin-healing effect of Zuberei tion. Even a slightly higher pH value, for example of 7, causes a disturbance of skin-healing processes and even damages the skin barrier, since, for example, the formation of skin-sealing lipids in the horny layer is disturbed at a pH of 7. The acid buffer thus promotes skin healing in interaction with the other active complexes.

It is particularly preferred if the acid buffer is formed by 1 to 4, in particular 2 to 4 acids and 2 to 3 salts.

It is likewise particularly preferred for the preparation according to the invention to contain from 0.3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 7% by weight, in particular from 1 to 3% by weight, of acid buffer.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the vitamin complex of the preparation according to the invention contains vitamins and / or derivatives thereof and / or their precursors, which are preferably selected from vitamin A, vitamin A acid, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, Vitamin C, vitamin C palmitate, vitamin C dipalmitate, vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, palmitate and linoleate, alfacalcidol, calcitriol, colecalciferol, ergocalciferol, transcalcifediol, calciprotriol, calcifediol, vitamin D ₃ , carotene, panthenol , Pantothenic acid, tocopherols, biotin, vitamin B, niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, tocopherol nicotinate and / or their Deri¬ derivatives, salts or mixtures.

By supplying the skin with the vitamins of the vitamin complex, skin healing is advantageously further promoted, skin aging is further reduced and skin moisturizing activity is further increased. Advantageously, just the previously enumerated vitamins interact very well with the substances of the other three active complexes together and lead to an overall enhanced effect effect. Overall, vitamins (derivatives) of this embodiment enhance the benefits of the present invention with respect to the skin, particularly the regulation of the condition of the skin, advantageously also the skin elasticity is further increased.

It is particularly preferred if 3 to 6 vitamins (derivatives) are contained in the preparations according to the invention.

It is very particularly preferred if the preparation according to the invention contains panthenol. The combination of panthenol as a component of the vitamin complex with the other active complexes leads to significantly improved healing of superficial skin changes. This advantageous combination calms irritated skin particularly well and the moisture binding in the hom layer is further improved, in particular also in atopic skin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention contains 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, advantageously 1 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 9 wt .-%, in particular 4 to 8 wt .-% of vitamin complex, based on the entire preparation.

It is likewise highly preferred if the preparation according to the invention also contains allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin). Its keratolytic, epithelizing and thus wound-healing effect is further enhanced by the four active complexes of the preparation according to the invention. It is particularly advantageous if panthenol and allantoin are used together in the preparation according to the invention, since in this way the wound-healing-promoting action is even greater, in particular also in atopic skin.

When in a preparation according to the invention as a moisture regulator substances are contained, which are selected from polyols, preferably glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, inositol, sorbitol, mannitol, palatinit, maltodextrin, dextrin, cyclodextrin, glucose, fructose , Lactose, mannose, galactose and / or other saccharides, as well as from urea, amino acids and their salts, here preferably glutamic acid, glycine or glutamates, in particular arginine pyroglutamate, lactate, vitamin E, lecithin, gluconic acid, panthenol, allantoin , Ceramides, chondroitin sulfate, sodium acrylate-vinyl alcohol copolymers, oligopeptides, 2-pyrrolidone, uronic acids, polysilicones, arginines or mixtures thereof, this is another preferred embodiment.

Advantageously, it is the substances of this embodiment that interact particularly well with the substances of the other three active complexes and, overall, lead to an increased active effect. Surprisingly, the stability of the preparation is also improved and the skin elasticity is further increased.

Advantageously, in this embodiment, the moisture binding in the Homschicht and in deeper layers of the dermis even further improved, especially as far as atopic skin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention contains 0.1 to 36 wt .-%, advantageously 3 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 10 to 20 wt .-% of moisture regulator.

It is particularly preferred if the moisture regulators contain 2 to 12, preferably 3 to 10, in particular 4 to 7, of the moisture-regulating substances in the preparation, it being very advantageous if at least one amino acid and glycerol are present.

According to a further preferred embodiment, plant extracts of the Aloe Vera plant [INCI: Aloe Extract] are contained in the preparation according to the invention. These have moisturizing properties. This was the thickened juice from the leaves of various aloe species (Liliaceae). The leaves of Aloe vera, Aloe barbadensis Miller, Aloe ferox or Aloe vulgaris are preferably used.

The aloe vera extract, in combination with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention, has a particularly advantageous effect on troubled and irritated skin conditions. Advantageously, the skin is calmed and irritation of the skin are advantageously greatly alleviated by this combination, preferably after a single application.

Advantageously, the combination of aloe vera extract with the active complexes according to the invention leads to a further improved smoothing effect of the skin over several hours. Skin roughness (minor wrinkles and roughnesses) and skin depth (overall relief of the skin) are positively influenced, and overall there is a further improvement in the skin surface structure. The further improved skin surface structure provides even better protection against external influences, e.g. In addition, skin compatibility is further improved by the combination with aloe vera extract, especially in atopic skin.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the natural fatty oils of the preparation according to the invention comprise oils which comprise a high content, preferably at least 7% by weight, of esterified polyunsaturated fatty acids, preferably selected from evening primrose oil, currant seed oil, borage oil , Echium oil, trichoderma oil, black cumin oil, rose hip oil, sea buckthorn oil, wheat germ oil, apricot oil, almond oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, sesame oil and / or sunflower oil. Especially these oils, in particular the borage oil, in combination with the three other active complexes in the preparations according to the invention lead to particularly good results, in particular surprisingly also with regard to skin elasticity. Advantageously, in cooperation with the other three active complexes, the viscoelastic behavior of the skin is unexpectedly improved. For example, after a provoked deformation, the skin returns more quickly to its original position; oils of this embodiment enhance the overall advantages of the present invention. It also results here advantageously very stable preparations. In addition, the skin healing is further promoted.

Advantageously, the skin, especially atopic skin, does not shine after application despite the oils contained therein and does not feel greasy but supple.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention contains at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, advantageously at least 7.5% by weight, more preferably at least 10% by weight, more preferably at least 15 % By weight, in particular at least 20% by weight, of natural fatty oils, advantageously those having a C-chain distribution of the bound acids of at least 70% C-18 and, advantageously, iodine numbers of more than 95. Preferably, however, a maximum total content of the natural fat oils of 45 wt .-%, advantageously 35 wt .-%, in particular 30 wt .-% not exceeded.

Advantageously, by maintaining the minimum and maximum amounts mentioned, the balance of the skin surface lipids is influenced even more favorably. Due to the features of this embodiment, the advantages of the present invention are generally enhanced, in particular with regard to the atopic skin.

A preparation according to the invention in which at least one, preferably at least two skin-tightening active ingredients, preferably selected from nettle oil, carrot seed oil, Acker¬ heltelhalm extract (Equisetum Arvense), galbanum oil, green tea extract (Camellia Oleife- ra or Camellia Sinensis) and / or apricot kernel oil or mixtures thereof, wherein it is most advantageous when at least 0.1% by weight (based on the total formulation) of green tea extract, nettle oil and / or carrot seed oil is contained, represents a further preferred embodiment of the invention. The presence of these agents further enhances the previously described effect on the viscoelastic behavior of the skin. Actives of this embodiment generally enhance the benefits of the present invention.

The presence of green tea extract in the preparation is also advantageous because, in combination with the active complexes according to the invention, it leads to an intensification of the skin-soothing overall effect.

If the preparation according to the invention contains from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, in particular from 40 to 60% by weight, of water, a preferred embodiment is likewise present. Advantageously, preparations with these water contents are particularly skin-compatible and anti-irritant, have a particularly good spreadability and stability. Overall, the water contents according to this embodiment enhance the advantages of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pH of the preparation according to the invention at a temperature of T = 20 ° C. is not more than 7.0, preferably in the range from 4.0 to 6.0, in particular between 4.5 and 5 ; 5. Advantageously, this is a hautoptima¬ ler range of values. Another advantage of this pH range is that the preparation in this pH range has a very good stability, even with long storage, preferably supported by the acid buffer.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention is dye-free. If the preparation contains only natural aromas or is preferably free of fragrances, then there is also a preferred embodiment.

If the preparation contains at least one deodorizing agent, then there is also a preferred embodiment. Particularly suitable in this regard are essential oils such as clove oil (eugenol), mint oil (menthol) and thyme oil (thymol) or comparable ethersische oils and farnesol. As a result of the intense inherent odor of these compounds, these are preferably but added only in small doses, advantageously in amounts of less than 5 wt .-%, more preferably less than 3 wt .-%, in particular less than 1% by weight. As has already been stated, the preparation according to the invention by the combination of the active complexes contained has an enhanced effect, which is greater than would have been expected by mere counting together.

It is particularly advantageous if the 4 active complexes are used in specific amounts.

According to a further preferred embodiment, a preparation according to the invention contains a) from 0.3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.7 to 7% by weight, in particular from 1 to 0, to 3.0 acid buffer b) from 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, advantageously 1 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 9 wt .-%, in particular 4 to 8 wt .-% vitamin c) 0.1 to 35 wt .-%, advantageously 3 to 30 wt %, preferably 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight of moisture regulator d) at least 3% by weight, advantageously at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 7.5% by weight, advantageously at least 10 wt .-%, more preferably at least 15 wt .-%, in particular at least 20 wt .-% natural fatty oils vor¬ preferably with a C-chain distribution of the bound acids of at least 70% C-18 and advantageously iodine numbers of over 95.

The combination of the active complexes in these advantageous proportions leads to particularly advantageous enhancement of the indicated effects, in particular with regard to skin elasticity and lipid supply, and therefore gives the skin even greater advantage in use, advantageously also with regard to atopic skin. Surprisingly, these preparations, in particular if they are in the form of nanoemulsions, outstandingly stable and distributable, and are characterized by a further improved rapidity of Wirkungs¬ entry.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention contain tea tree oil, preferably in an amount of not more than 1% by weight, advantageously of not more than 0.7% by weight, more preferably of not more than 0.5% by weight. in particular of at most 0.3% by weight. The advantages of tea tree oil result from its fresh odor and its desodorie¬ renden, antibacterial and antifungal properties. The advantageous quantity range for the tea tree oil designated in the aforementioned embodiment leads to preparations with particularly pronounced stability.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention contain ethanol, preferably in an amount of not more than 10% by weight, advantageously of not more than 6% by weight, more preferably not more than 4% by weight, in particular maximum 3% by weight.

The ethanol promotes the destruction of pathogenic microorganisms and is used for disinfection.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously also contains surfactants. According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation contains at least two surfactants, advantageously both a hydrophilic and a lipophilic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of at most 25% by weight, advantageously of at most 5% by weight, more advantageously of not more than 4% by weight, more preferably not more than 3% by weight, in particular not more than 2.5% by weight, the hydrophilic surfactant preferably being present in a quantity of at least 0.1% by weight. %, advantageously at least 0.5% by weight and the lipophilic surfactant is preferably present in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight, advantageously at least 0.3% by weight.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactants" also includes emulsifiers. A hydrophilic surfactant is substantially water-soluble, while a lipophilic surfactant is substantially oil-soluble. One possibility for categorizing surfactants in water- or oil-soluble is also the HLB system. The term HLB value is known to the person skilled in the art. The HLB value is a measure of the water or oil solubility of predominantly nonionic surfactants introduced by Griffin (1950) and the stability of emulsions. Experimentally, the HLB value z. Example by the phenol titration method by adding the surfactant solution with 5% phenol solution to turbidity. Furthermore, the HLB value can be determined (gas) chromatographically by determination of the dielectric constant or colorimetrically. Detailed information on this and also lists of HLB values of commercial emulsifiers can be found in the relevant specialist literature or in reference works such. B. Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by John Wiley & Sons. The HLB scale usually ranges from 1 to 20. Low HLB (3 to 8) substances are lipophilic and are generally considered to be good W / O emulsifiers, while higher HLB (8 to 18) substances are hydrophilic and act as O / W emulsifiers.

It has been found that the surfactant constellation described in the last-mentioned embodiment is very advantageous for the stability of the preparations, in particular for the stability of nanoemulsions according to the invention. Advantageously, the amount of surfactants to be used is kept low, since surfactants under unfavorable constellations also components of the hydrolipid and fat layer can optionally solve and thus possibly also lead to a partial loss of the natural barrier effect of the skin. In the case of the preparations according to the invention, however, a hypothetical negative effect of the surfactants is by far overcompensated by the positive interaction of the four active complexes which ensure full supply of the skin and considerably support the natural barrier action of the skin.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention contains nonionic surfactants, preferably at least two nonionic surfactants, advantageously a hydrophilic and a lipophilic nonionic surfactant, in particular selected from the group of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, Alkyl polyglycosides, fatty amine Λ / oxides, long-chain alkyl sulfoxides, silicone-based nonionic surfactants and / or polymerization products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide or propylene glycol.

Nonionic surfactants advantageously have the skin-friendliest properties in comparison to other surfactant types in combination with the 4 active complexes of the preparation according to the invention.

Furthermore, the presence advantageously of a hydrophilic and a lipophilic nonionic surfactant has a very positive effect on the stability of the preparations, in particular on the stability of the nanoemulsion according to the invention. The spreadability of the preparation on the skin is further favored. Overall, the surfactant constellation of the last-mentioned embodiment enhances the advantages of the present invention. According to a further preferred embodiment, the lipophilic and hydrophilic surfactants present in the novel preparations are present in a weight ratio of from 0.05 to 10, advantageously from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.15 to 1. The difference between the HLB values of the lipophilic and hydrophilic surfactants is advantageously at least 5, more preferably at least 6, and very advantageously at least 7, in particular at least 10.

The lipophilic surfactants preferably have an HLB value of from 1 to 7, in particular from 3 to about 5. The hydrophilic surfactants preferably have HLB values above 13, in particular above 15. Preferred nonionic surfactants are preferably used in each case those which additionally have a thickening effect, in a further advantageous manner have a molecular weight above 1000, in particular 5000.

It is preferred if all surfactants contained have molecular weights above 500, preferably above 1000 and in particular above 10000 g / mol.

Particularly preferred are silicone-containing nonionic lipophilic emulsifiers, preferably highly lipophilic, such as ABIL® EM 90 (INCI: cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone), ABIL® WE 09 (INCI: polyglyceryl-4 isostearates, cetyl PEG / PPG -10/1 Dimethicone; Hexyl Lau¬ rate), ABIL®EM 97 (INCI: Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone; Cyclopentasiloxane), all available from Degussa AG, Germany, or similar products.

Also highly preferred are PEG-free nonionic lipophilic emulsifiers, preferably highly lipophilic, plant-based, such as, for example, Isolan® PDI (INCI: Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate), Isolan GI 34 (INCI: polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 5), Isolan® IS (INCI: Methyl Glucose Isostearate), all available from Degussa AG, Germany, or comparable products.

These surfactant constellations just described lead advantageously to excellently stabilized preparations, with the nanoemulsions being distinguished by an extraordinary stability and exceptional rapidity of the onset of action. Advantageously, even very small amounts of surfactant are sufficient to stabilize the preparation very well. From a total amount of including 0.8 wt .-% surfactant resulting excellent stable preparations. The described surfactant constellations according to the last-mentioned embodiments enable a very good spreadability of the preparation on the skin associated with a very good penetration into the skin and enhance the overall benefits of the present invention.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparation contains as surfactants only nonionic surfactants. As already mentioned, the presence of surfactants in conventional creams in the worst case can also have negative effects on the skin. Although a theoretically conceivable disadvantageous surfactant effect is by far overcompensated by the interaction of the active complexes in the case according to the invention, it is still more advantageous to completely dispense with further surfactants than the nonionic surfactants in order to further relieve the skin. Advantageously, a surfactant system according to the invention, which preferably consists of small amounts of the nonionic surfactants described, can do without additional surfactants.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention contains natural or nature-identical antioxidants, advantageously in amounts of from 0.03 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight. , in particular selected from terpene-containing antioxidants and / or vitamin E (derivatives), preferably in combination with vitamin C (derivatives). Preferably, the preparation is free of synthetic antioxidants.

Advantageously, it has been found that in the presence of the natural or nature-identical antioxidants, the skin compatibility of the preparations according to the invention could be improved even further, particularly with regard to skin which is particularly prone to irritation. In addition, it has unexpectedly been found that in the presence of the natural or natural antioxidants the skin elasticity is further improved so that it reaches its initial position more quickly after deformation. The stability of the preparations is further improved. The natural or nature-identical antioxidants according to this embodiment enhance the advantages of the present invention as a whole, in particular, they further enhance the duration of action of the preparation.

In a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention is characterized by the fact that at least one of the active substances contained is antiseptic or contains at least one antiseptic active ingredient. In the context of this invention, the attribute of antiseptic efficacy means an effect that is beneficial to the self-regulating forces of human skin. This effectiveness is not in their expression with that of classical germicidal or germicidal agents such. As phenols or halogens with which z. B. skin u. Mucous membranes, wounds or even medical instruments treated to achieve asepsis (germ-free) compare.

The classical antiseptic comprises antimicrobial measures at the starting point or at the entry port of a possible infection or at the site of infection on the body surface.

However, such strong effectiveness is preferably not sought in the context of the invention, as it would undoubtedly lead to the elimination of harmful germs or the like, but would also impair the natural skin flora of humans.

The particular advantage of the antiseptic active substances which can be used according to the invention results from a synergistic interaction of these substances with the general functional mechanisms of human skin, since these substances have a mildly antiseptic action, eg. B. germs, including harmful germs reduce, but not perfect, so to sterility, destroy. So there are enough germs on the skin that are sufficient to train and strengthen the self-regulating powers of human skin. The interaction of the self-regulating forces of the skin with the antiseptic capacity of the active ingredients contained in the preparation supports the general functional mechanisms of the skin. This is of great advantage in view of already irritated and / or otherwise damaged skin. In skin that is already irritated and / or sensitized and / or otherwise damaged or else particularly sensitive, the self-regulating forces of the skin are sometimes no longer able, even temporarily, to ensure the health of the skin by its own efforts. In synergistic interaction with the preparations according to the invention and their use according to the invention, these self-regulatory forces are supported, trained and strengthened.

In this way, the preparation according to the invention supports and trains the natural skin flora of humans.

In order not to impair the natural skin flora of humans, it is very advantageous to exclude such substances as far as possible, which are strongly antiseptic active, such as. B. Glutaraldehyde, benzalkonium chloride, 8-hydroxyquinoline, ethacridine, hexetidine, benzoxonium chloride, bibrocathol, gentamicin, bezoyl peroxide, but at the same time have a high allergenic potential and are irritating to the skin and mucous membranes.

Unexpectedly, compositions of such an embodiment are particularly useful for their purpose when the antiseptic agent is an oil, preferably an ethereal oil.

This antiseptic oil is preferably an essential oil selected in particular from the group of Angelica fine - Angelica archangelica, Anis - Pimpinella anisum, Benzoin siam - Styrax tokinensis, Cabreuva - Myrocarpus fastigiatus, Cajeput - Melaleuca leucadendron, Cistus - Cistrus ladaniferus, Copaiba balm - Copaifera reticulata, Costus root - Saussurea discolor, Edeltann needle - Abies alba, Elemi - Canarium luzonicum, Fennel - Foeniculum dulce, Spruce needle - Picea abies, Geranium - Pelargonium graveolens, Ho leaves - Cinnamonum camphora , Immortelle Helichrysum ang., Ginger extra - Zingiber off., St. John's wort - Hypericum perforatum, Jojoba, German chamomile - Matricaria recutita, Chamomile blue fine - Matricaria chamomilla, Chamomile rom. - Anthemis nobilis, Chamomile wild - Ormensis multicaulis, Carrot - Daucus carota, Mountain pine - Pinus mugho, Lavandin - Lavendula hybrida, Litsea cubeba - (May Chang), Manuka - Leptos permum scoparium, Melissa - Melissa officinalis, Sea pine - Pinus pinaster, Myrrh - Commiphora molmol, Myrtle - Myrtus communis, Neem - Azadirachta, Niaouli - (MQV) Melaleuca quin, viridiflora, Palmarosa - Cymbopogom martini, Patchouli - Pogostemon patchouli, Peru balsam - Myroxylon balsamum var. Pereirae, Raventsara aromatica, rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis, rosewood - Aniba pink odora, sage - Salvia officinalis, horsetail - Equisetaceae, yarrow extra - Achillea millefolia, plantain lanceolate - Plantago lanceolata, Styrax - Liquidambar orientalis, Tage¬ tes ( Marigold) - Tagetes patula, Tolubal - Myroxylon Balsamum L., Virginia Cedar - Juicerus virginiana, Frankincense (Olibanum) - Boswellia carteri, Silver fir - Abies alba.

Such preparations are even more compatible with the skin, and the overall effect of the preparation is further enhanced, in particular, by the above-mentioned essential oil, whereby a very good skin compatibility has advantageously been found even in very sensitive skin.

Another advantage of the aforementioned essential oils lies in their particular multifunctionality, which in addition to the described mild antiseptic activity from a variety give further desirable organoleptic properties, which are just attributable to these oils. In most cases, these oils are given an expectorant effect because they exert a mild, positive stimulus on the mucous membranes of the respiratory organs. Furthermore, a desirable feeling of warmth can be established. Deodorizing, pain-relieving, circulation-promoting, calming effects could be observed by the applicant in connection with the use according to the invention of these designated oils and be recognized as particularly advantageous. The organoleptic properties of these oils are as a rule not influenced by the main components, but by the secondary or trace constituents, which often can go into the hundreds and sometimes interact synergistically. Another advantage associated with the oils mentioned is their harmonious fragrance and scent, which in many cases leads to positive feelings in humans.

In this way, the preparation according to the invention not only supports the natural Hautflo¬ ra of man, but helps the human body to additional benefits just described type.

Against this background, especially the patchouli is of great advantage for the subject of the invention and leads to a further improvement of the skin compatibility. Likewise, the rosemary oil is particularly advantageous.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from conventional preservatives, in particular free from benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, butyl paraben, chloroacetamide, chlorhexidine, diazolidinyl urea, dipropylene glycol, DMDM dantoin, ethyl paraben, formaldehyde, hexamidine diiso-dithionate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, isothiazolinone, methyl dibromoglutaronitrile , Methyl paraben, polyaminopropyl biguanide, propyl paraben, sodium benzoate, butylhydroxytoluene.

These are substances which, although sometimes only in rare cases, can have an allergic effect. Therefore, it is advantageous to exclude these substances.

The preparations according to the invention may advantageously contain in general all other ingredients which are commonly used in cosmetic, preferably skin care, in particular facial cosmetic preparations. Such ingredients as well as the relevant quantitative ranges in which these can be used are well known to the person skilled in the art or can be found in the relevant specialist literature, eg "Kosmetik, 2nd edition, W. Limbach, Wiley-VCH, 1995", or "Cosmetic Ingredients, Assessment Cosmetic Ingredients, Lehr, Reichelt, BoD GmbH Norderstedt, 2003 "or" The Cosmetic Preparations, Volume MII, Domsch, Andreas, Verlag für chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, 1992-1994 ".

Possible ingredients include not only active ingredients but also the so-called adjuncts and additives. These may also be advantageously contained in the preparations. However, it is even more advantageous if the preparations according to the invention are largely free of auxiliaries and additives.

The water is basic material and no auxiliary or additive. Auxiliary substances are surfactants, emulsifiers and thickeners whose amount should preferably be limited in terms of the number and weight fraction. Active substances within the meaning of the invention are preferably all those substances which can be assigned to the abovementioned active complexes, in particular the substances listed by name in this context. Active ingredients are preferably further those substances such as aloe vera extract, almond oil, green tea extract, carrot seed oil, mint oil, tea tree oil, essential oil such as patchouli, mimetic peptides, Antarcticine®, i. Such substances were pointed out for their positive effect in connection with the preparation according to the invention, the above examples being given only by way of illustration and not completely.

As preservatives acting substances according to a preferred embodiment, only active ingredients in the context of the invention, which are preferably selected from the named by name in this document agents used, such as. As tea tree oil, ethanol or salicylic acid also have an additional conservative character.

The total proportion of the additives is preferably not higher than 10% by weight, advantageously not higher than 7% by weight.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention are largely free of auxiliaries and additives, preferably less than 10% by weight, advantageously less than 7% by weight, more preferably less than 5% by weight, in more preferably less than 3% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, in particular no auxiliaries, the group of auxiliary agents and additives preferably comprising the following substances:

Acrylates, in particular C _10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, alpha-dodecyl-omega-hydroxy-poly (oxyethylene) -2, aluminum, aluminum stearate, oatmeal, behenyl alcohol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl paraben, C _12-15 alkyl alcohol benzoate, Carbomer, Cera alba, Cera microcristallina, ceresin, PEG-12 cetyl ether, ethoxylated cetyl stearyl ether, PEG-6 cetyl stearyl ether, cetylstearyl isononanoate, cetyl stearyl octanoate, PEG-20 cetyl ether, cetyl alcohol, dyes, cocamidopropyl betaine, dicyanecyl ester, dicaprylyl ether, diethylhexylbutamidotriazone , Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylat / Hexacaprat, dipropylene glycol, EDTA, disodium laurethsulfosuccinat, disodium phosphate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium, corn powder, DMDM hydantoin, ethoxydiglycol, ethyl paraben, glyceryl stearate citrate, Stearinsäureglycolester, hexamidine diisoithionat, iodopropynylbutylcarbamate, Myristinsäurei- sopropylester, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, PEG -4 L auryl ether, PEG-9 lauryl ether, magnesium stearate, magnesium sulfate, methoxy PEG-22 dodecylglycol copolymer, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, methyl paraben, monoisopropylamine laureth sulfate, myristate myristylate, nitrilotriacetate, octyl triazone, ozokerite, paraffin wax, liquid paraffin, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG -150, PEG-2 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-4, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-5 Lanolate, PEG- 7 Glyceryl cocoate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-8, PEG-150 distearate, PEG dicocoate, PEG monococoate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, phenyl trimethicone, poloxamer 101 (PE / PP block polymer), poloxamer 124, polyaminopropyl biguanide, polydecene , Diglycerol caprate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, triglycerol diisostearate, triglycerol methyl glucose distearate, potassium phosphate, hexadecene copolymer, propyl gallate, propylene glycol octanoate decanoate , Propylene glycol, propylparaben, silica, sodium benzoate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, Natriumcar- bomer, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, Natriumcococylisethionat, Sodium Com Starch octenylsuccinate, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, sodium laureth sulfate, Natriumlau- rylsulfoacetat sulfate, sodium, Natriumphenylbenzimidazolsulfonat, sodium polyacrylate, Isostearinsäuresorbitanester, sorbitan stearate, Steareth-20, stearic acid, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, triisostearin, zinc sulfate.

The most extensive, especially complete absence of auxiliaries and additives is advantageous because these substances have essentially no or only a comparatively low physiological effect. In many cases, the adjuvants merely constitute a ballast which pollutes the skin by its presence without really positively serving it, e.g. B. in that the skin is completely covered with fats (for example with paraffin, vaseline, waxes, etc.). According to the invention, such cover effects are dispensed with, instead of lipid supply of the skin via natural oils. In the worst case, the natural functions of the skin are even adversely affected by the excipients. In any case, the excipients must be broken down by the skin.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention therefore has an α-value of greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, advantageously greater than 0.7, very advantageously greater than 0.75, most preferably greater than 0.8 , even more advantageously greater than 0.85, more preferably greater than 0.87, wherein the α-value is given by formula (I)

α = amount of active ingredient / (total amount of the preparation - amount of water), formula (I) wherein the amount is based on wt .-%.

If this constellation according to this embodiment is given, the advantages of the present invention are further enhanced, in particular as regards the rapidity of the onset of action.

Here, the amount of active ingredient, the mass of those ingredients to understand that are no auxiliaries, no additives and no water.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain small pigment particles, in particular of zinc oxide, zirconium oxide and / or titanium oxide. Such pigment particles serve to protect the skin, since they reflect in particular UV rays. In particular, the zinc oxide also has a slightly disinfecting and skin-tightening effect. The particle size of the pigment particles is preferably in the range 100 to 300 nm, advantageously 150 to 250 nm, in particular 200 to 250 nm. The refractive index of the pigment particles is preferably at least 2, in particular 2 to 3. A hypothetical whitening on the Skin, caused by the pigment particles, is advantageously no longer perceivable if the mentioned particle size criterion and / or the refractive index criterion be respected. Preferably, in the compositions according to the invention about 0.05 to 6 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 2 wt .-% of the small pigment particles.

It has been found that the small pigment particles further enhance the advantages of the present invention. The stability of the preparation is improved. In particular, when the preparation is present as a nanoemulsion, there is an excellent spreadability of the preparation and the pigment particles are deposited very evenly on the skin so that, even if the preparation contains absolutely only very few pigment particles, nevertheless ensuring optimum UV protection , The very uniform deposition of the pigment particles on the skin advantageously results in a very even skin appearance and fine lines and wrinkles are no longer visible.

Preferred formulations have an apparent viscosity of from about 3,000 to about 200,000 mPas. For example, preferred formulations have an apparent viscosity of from about 3,000 to about 15,000 mPas, preferably from about 6,000 to about 9,000 mPas. The apparent viscosity can be determined by the usual methods. The viscosity of the preparation is measured after allowing the preparation to stabilize for at least 24 hours after preparation of the preparation under conditions of 25 ^° C. ± 10 ^° C. and at ambient pressure. The apparent viscosity is measured at a temperature of the composition of 25 ⁰ C ± 1 ° C after 30 seconds spindle rotation.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention also contains thickening agents, preferably in the form of thickening surfactants, in particular fatty alcohols (derivatives). Less preferred but also suitable are fatty acids and silicone oil derivatives.

Advantageously, the preparations may also contain peptides. Peptides consist of individual amino acids. Here, a distinction is made between oligopeptides (2 to 10 amino acids) and polypeptides (10 to 100 amino acids). The amino acid sequence (= primary structure) and the three-dimensional spatial arrangement of the chain (secondary and tertiary structure) determine the function of the peptide.

Preferred peptides are mimetic peptides. Mimetic peptides are skin-identical peptides or peptides that are found in the human body. In the organism, the oligopeptides and polypeptides fulfill important tasks, for example as hormones (peptide hormones) or as novel drugs. rotransmitter or neuromodulators (neuropeptides). Particularly preferred are mimetic hexapeptides (six amino acids).

An example of a particularly preferred mimetic hexapeptide is collaxyl, available from IMPAG GmbH, Offenbach, Germany.

The INCI name for the Collaxyl is: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Hexapeptide-10. The structure of the synthetic peptide collaxyl is congruent with a portion of the amino acid sequence found in human collagen IV and XVII. Collagen IV and XVII are important proteins of the basement membrane and therefore of great importance for the dermo-epidermal compound. Collaxyl also shows significant effects on the collagen synthesis of the extracellular medium (ECM) and on the regeneration and differentiation of the epidermis. Firming and regeneration of the skin from the inside in turn leads to improved skin elasticity.

However, other mimetic peptides can advantageously also be used, in particular the products commercially available with the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Penapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptides-1, hexapeptides -1, hexapeptides -2, MEA-hydrolyzed silks. Derivatives of sericin and fibroin can also be used with advantage, typical examples of which are the following products available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed SiIk and Hydrolyzed SiIk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol.

Another example of a highly preferred mimetic peptide is Argireline® available from Lipotec S.A., Barcelona Spain.

The INCI name for Argireline is: acetyl hexapeptide-3.

Acetyl Hexapetide-3 is a non-toxic alternative to botulinum neurotoxins ("Botox"), which reduces excess catecholamine and influences the formation of the snare complex, which is important for neuro-transmission Significantly, the depth of such wrinkles, which arise as a result of frequent muscle tension especially on the forehead and around the eyes, is significant.

The amino acid sequence was mimicked at Argireline at the N-terminal end of SNAP-25. Argireline also inhibits Ca ²⁺ -dependent neurotransmitter release into the system. napsen. Argireline reduces muscle activity, while Botox paralyzes muscle activity. Advantageously, the skin thereby obtains the possibility of regenerating particularly well by supplying the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention. The pleat depth is thereby reduced by up to 50% and even further. The advantage in connection with the preparation according to the invention is that wrinkles, as a result of the interaction with the active complexes, preferably first occur with considerable delay, and in particular do not arise at all. This is due to the interaction of acetyl hexapetide-3 with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain at least one mimetic peptide.

The mimetic peptides, in particular acetyl hexapetide-3, are preferably present in total amounts of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total preparation. Total amounts of from 0.005 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 3% by weight, are very particularly preferred.

Advantageously, the mimetic peptides further enhance the advantages of the preparation according to the invention, in particular the elasticity of the skin.

Advantageously, the preparations also contain Antarcticine®, INCI name: [Pseudoalteroma Ferment Extract], available from Lipotec S.A., Barcelona Spain. This ingredient comes from an Antarctic bacterium. The isolated glycoprotein reduces wrinkles by stimulating the regeneration of collagen I and IV, elastin, and the growth of fibroblasts. In addition, it promotes the cohesion of prickle and basal layers. Advantageously, it provides through the interaction with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention even further improved skin protection even in extremely dry and cold conditions. This is especially true when Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is used together with acetyl Hexapetide-3 in the preparations of the invention.

In the preparations according to the invention Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract vorzugswei¬ se in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-% based on the total preparation. Men¬ gene of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

The preparation of emulsions, including nanoemulsions, is known to the person skilled in the art and he can make use of the relevant specialist literature; eg "The cosmetic preparations, volume I- III, Domsch, A., publishing house for chemical industry H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, 1992-1994 ".

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention additionally contains an anti-aging complex which comprises at least 2, preferably at least 3, in particular at least 4, ingredients, which are advantageously selected from

(a) the group of peptides, preferably the mimetic peptides (skin-identical peptides), e.g. Acetyl hexapeptide-3, tripeptide-1, tetrapeptide-1, hexapeptide-2, acetyl-tetrapeptide-2, hexapeptide-9, pentadeca-peptide-1 or peptides already mentioned in the description

(b) the polyphenols, e.g. green tea extract, rutoside, proanthocyanidins, in particular - phenolic acids {in this case (i) hydroxycinnamic acids (for example caffeic acid, ferulic acid), and (ii) hydroxybenzoic acids (for example gallic acid, ellagic acid, vanillic acid},

Flavonoids, wherein (i) flavones, e.g. Apigenin, luteolin, (ii) isoflavonoids, e.g. Genistein, daidzein, (iii) flavonols, e.g. Quercetin, kaempferol, (iv) flavanones, e.g. Naringenin, hesperidin, (v) anthocyanins, e.g. Malvidin, Cyanidin, (vi) Proantho zayne, as e.g. Tannins, (vii) flavanols, e.g. Epigallocatechin gallate, catechin

(c) plants (seed) extracts or powders, preferably extracts of fruits, roots, barks and / or seeds, such as lychee (seed) extract, grape seed extracts, citrus fruit extract, preferably grapefruit (kem) extract, acerola extract, aronia ex Extract, broccoli powder, broccoli sprouts powder or extract, tomato extract, oil palm fruit extract, fenugreek extract, coffee bean extract, linseed extract, marsupial extract, maca root powder or extract, fig cactus (fruit or seed) extract, olive extract, olive leaf extract , Papaya Extract, Datentextract, Chicory Extract, Artichoke Extract, Banana Extract, Plum Extract, Cherry Extract, Strawberry Extract, Centella Asiatica Extracts, Perilla (seed) Extract, Rice Seed Extract, Rosemary Extract, Rooibos Tea Extract, Soybean Seedling Extract, Grape Peel Extract, Grape Extract , Cinnamon bark extract, apple (seed) extract, field extract, amica extract, bearberry leaf extract, birch leaf extract. Algae extract, watercress extract, calendula extract, cinchona extract, ivy leaf extract, echinacea root extract, marshmallow root extract, gentian root extract, eucalyptus leaf extract, honeysuckle extract, gingko leaf extract, ginseng root extract, Large Burdock Leaf Extract, Guarana Seed Extract, Cucumber Extract, Celery Extract, Johan Niskraut (Blossom / Leaf) Extract, Oat Extract, Hagedom (Blossom) Extract, Heartsea Se (flower) extract, dogrose (fruit) extract, henna (leaf) extract, hops extract, jasmine (blossom) extract, chamomile (blossom) extract, nasturtium extract, carrot extract, tuberous meadowsweet Extract, Cornflower Extract, Liquorice (Root) Extract, Laendel (Bloom) Extract, Lily (Flower) Extract, Melliot Extract, Poppy (Bloom) Extract, Motherwort (Flower) Extract, Asparagus Extract, cabbage extract, curly kale extract, myrte (blossom) extract, orchid (blossom) extract, yarrow (flower) extract, parsley extract, leek extract, pine (needle) extract, rosemary (Leaf) extract, horse chestnut (bark) extract, sage (leaf) extract, comfrey extract, melon extract, onion extract, soapwort extract, holly extract, thymi extract on (leaf) extract, Virginian nutmeg leaf extract, juniper fruit extract, walnut leaf extract, water lily root extract, white nettle extract, pewter herb leaf extract, Cystus extract (Cystus inc anus ssp. Tauricus), rose red (Rhodiola rosea) extract, Schisandra chinensis extract, Acanthopanax senticosus extract, frankincense extract, turmeric extract, pomegranate extract, nettle (leaf) extract, garlic extract, St. John's wort extract , Blueberry Extract, Gooseberry Extract, Blueberry Extract, Raspberry Extract, Blackberry Extract, Blackcurrant Extract, Cranberry Extract, Beetroot Extract, Lettuce Plant Extract, Uncaria Tomentoza (Cat's Claw) Extract, Rhubarb Extract, Lilac Extract, Elderberry Extract, Oak Bark Extract, Hamamelis Leaves and Bark Extract, Waternel Extract, Comfrey Extract, as well as Extracts or Powders of Coniferous Woods, Spruce Needles, Mountain Pine, Bald Cypress, Yews, Seed Ferns, Arrowhead, Dragon Tree, Chestnuts, yellows, tulips, saffron, pineapples, sugar cane, rye, corn, duckweed, nutmeg, bold leaves, bay leaves, pepper, celandine, mulberry, red fennel, ragwort, goosefoot Newleaf, spinach, beetroot, knotweed, birch, gooseberry, saxifrage, sundew, horticultural, meadowsweet, bloodroot, strawberry, rosehips, mantle, hawthorn, honeysuckle.Mirabelle, apricot, peach, blackthorn, Alexandrian Senna leaves, fruits, Tinnevelly senna leaves, fruits, buffalo root, stone clover, fenugreek seeds, liquorice root, kidney bean, Syzygii cumini bark, baobab bark and leaves, eucalyptus leaves, bitter orange peel, bitter wood.Mango, horse chestnut seed, Senega root , Ratanhia root, horse chestnut tree, spindle tree family, buckthorn bark, kelp apple fruit, ivy leaves, taiga root, toothpick nut fruit, dill fruit, angel root, caraway fruit, coriander fruit, carrot, fennel fruits, lovage root, parsley fruits, aniseed, endive, Cardui mariae herba, Stevia rebaudiana, cola nuts, boar eye, tarragon, daisies, pumpkin.Zucchini, horseradish, radishes, figs, cassava tubers, sand thorn berries, Primula species, hydrangea, Valerian root, Rhododendron species, Schwalbenwurz , Harpagophyti radix, Plantaginis herba and / or Indian psyllium.

(d) proteins of plant origin, such as, preferably, soya, almonds, peas, cocoa, algae, potato and wheat proteins, but especially soya proteins such as e.g. Vegeseryl® HGP (soya protein concentrate, INCI: Glycine soybean (soybean) protein)

(e) animal proteins such as elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein.

(f) amino acids, e.g. Arginine, alanine, histidine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine), ornithine, lysine, taurine and tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, carnetine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine, threonine, tryp tophan, valine , Asparagine, glutamic acid, in particular glutathione, cysteine and / or tau rin.

According to the invention, the term "proteins" also encompasses derivatives of the proteins, protein hydrolysates, derivatives of the protein hydrolysates, for example their fatty acid condensation products or cationic derivatives. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).

The mentioned Vegeseryl® HGP is a natural botanical protein which is a combination of natural albumins and globulins. The molecular weight is about 50,000 daltons. It is available from Cognis France or Laboratoires Serobiogistics S.A.

The term amino acids also covers their derivatives, such as N-acetyl cysteine. L-arginine is preferably included in the formulation. L-arginine is a proteinogenic amino acid found in almost all proteins. Arginine must be available for the formation of collagenous connective tissue. Also, L-lysine is preferably included in the preparation. L-lysine is an essential amino acid and a component of the collagenous connective tissue, which means that it has a substantial share of its stability and its mechanical strength. Also, L-methionine is preferably included in the preparation. L-methionine is an essen- essential proteinogenic amino acid, which is indispensable for a functional connective tissue. It also strengthens the antioxidant capacity of the organism.

The green tea extract is a preferred component of the anti-aging complex. The polyphenols contained in green tea, especially the catechins, have many positive qualities. They have an antioxidant effect. White tea extract is also preferred.

Peptides are a preferred component of the anti-aging complex, in particular tyrosine- and / or tryptophan-containing peptides are preferably contained as extremely effective antioxidants. The antioxidant peptides contain aromatic ring systems with the ability to form stable radicals, in particular tyrosine or tryptophan residues. The oxidation of dissolved or fibrillar proteins, lipoprotein particles and membrane lipids is prevented by the peptides.

Litchi extract (Litchi chinensis) is a preferred component of the anti-aging complex. It can inhibit the breakdown of collagen and support the buildup of new collagen. It contains flavanoids, is therefore antioxidant and can neutralize free radicals. Litchi extract inhibits collagenase. The enzyme collagenase breaks down the collagen. The consequences are wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity with age. In addition, Lit¬ schi extract can cause an increase in collagen production, which is known to decrease from the age of 20 years. Lychee Extrakat inhibits elastase. Elastase is an enzyme that breaks down elastin. Elastin is a structural protein related to collagen, which constitutes the main constituent of the elastic fibers of the connective tissue. The skin owes its tension essentially to a balanced amount of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Lychee Extrakat also inhibits hyaluronidase. Hyaluronic acid is an important component of the extracellular matrix in skin and cartilage tissues. It is degraded by hyaluronidase. Litchi Extrakat also inhibits tyrosinase. Tyrosinase, using molecular oxygen, forms quinones, highly reactive molecules that tend to spontaneously polymerize and form brown pigments. Age spots and various lesions of the skin, including tumors, are associated with these pigmentations. Litchi extract also improves the moisture content of the skin and improves the pH of the skin. Furthermore, lychee extract has a high antioxidative effect. Perilla seed extract inhibits lipoxygenase and thus inflammatory processes (of the skin). Perilla seed extract develops anti-allergic activity, which can benefit the skin. Perilla seed extract has a high content of Poyphenol.

If the preparation according to the invention contains the anti-aging complex, then an even further improvement in the effect of the preparation can be achieved. The anti-aging complex is preferably present in amounts of from 0.1 to 35% by weight in the preparation, based on the entire preparation. The lower limit, in preferred embodiments, may also be values such as 0.5, 1, 0, 1, 5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 or 5 , 0 wt .-% are. The upper limit may be preferred embodiments also at values such as 30, 25, 20, 15 or 10 wt .-%.

Such a preparation with an anti-aging complex can even better contribute to maintaining, protecting and positively influencing a healthy skin condition, in particular to preserve as long as possible a youthful appearance of the skin.

Such a preparation with anti-aging complex can contribute even better to that. a reduction in wrinkle depth is achieved and new wrinkling is prevented. In particular, a mitigation of wrinkles, crow's feet, fine lines can be promoted even better and also their new formation can be delayed even better. The preparation can lead to an improvement of the skin tightening, so that the skin, for example, appears even smoother and firmer. In particular, tighter skin around the eyes can be better promoted be¬.

Such a preparation with anti-aging complex is very well tolerated. The preparation can be used even in the case of very sensitive and problematic skin, since it preferably does not cause any allergic or irritative intolerance reactions. In particular, the decline of redness and feelings of tension can be further promoted. Likewise, the prevention of skin irritation can be further promoted.

Such a preparation with anti-aging complex is especially effective in the cosmetic treatment of dry, sensitive and mature skin. Even a further improvement in impure skin and pimples can be achieved. Such a preparation with anti-aging complex can especially better contribute to the fact that the skin moisture increases. It can even better contribute to a more elastic skin. It can further improve the subjectively perceived skin feel, so that the skin can feel noticeably smoother and finer. It can have an invigorating effect on the skin. It can do even better to strengthen the skin cell structure. The Kol¬ layer structure can be supported even better. Even after the first application, an improvement in the feel of the skin can be noticed. The stimulation of the regeneration of skin cells and skin-own lipids can be supported even better. The quality of the skin's lipids can be better supported.

The skin roughness can be reduced even more clearly by such a preparation with anti-aging complex. In particular, a tactile improvement even on very rough skin areas such as upper arms and elbows can be further promoted. In particular, the care of dry, cracked and rough skin, even keratinized skin can be further favored, so that, for example, existing cracks can be regressed. In particular, the smoothing of chapped skin can be further promoted. A soft to very soft skin feeling can be further promoted. Existing itching can be further reduced.

It is known that environmental influences contribute very much to skin aging and also other factors such as poor nutrition (lack of vitamins and minerals, sun or solarium load (UV radiation), smoking (restricted circulation of the skin), frequent diets (connective tissue becomes flabby) Stress and sleep deficits accelerate skin aging Such adverse effects can be counteracted with the use of the preparation in order to slow down the skin aging forced by such influences.

Aging skin produces significantly less fat and loses moisture, which can be compensated by the preparation. With aging skin, cell division slows down. The upper skin layer needs significantly more time for renewal. The elastic fibers in the skin begin to lose elasticity. The number of sebaceous glands is reduced considerably. The skin becomes noticeably drier. The skin circulation is reduced. Upper lip wrinkles develop and forehead transverse folds and nasolabial folds (nasal lip folds) increase. The reducing estrogen production makes the skin drier, thinner and more sensitive. The number of elastin fibers decreases greatly and accelerates the formation of sacks and sagging skin. UV light and free radicals continuously damage the collagen fibers and cause wrinkles and wrinkles over time. The preparation according to the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex, can help to counteract these developments and to slow down the aging process of the skin.

The problem of aging skin, however, does not affect the elderly, but the skin begins to age as early as the middle of the 20th century. The cell production decreases, the connective tissue can store less moisture, and at the same time the skin loses its resistance to damaging environmental influences. The preparation according to the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex, can also already help in this stage to counteract these developments and to slow down the aging process of the skin. In particular, the changes related to normal aging processes of the skin, which lead to a dilution of all layers of the skin and to a decrease in the function of the skin glands, can be counteracted with the preparation according to the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex. In particular, an acceleration of cell renewal, improvement of Gewebestruk¬ tur, reduce the depth of wrinkles and improve skin metabolism can be achieved.

Although all the above-mentioned aging processes and loss of function of the skin can not be stopped as a whole, they are, however, very significantly influenced and the aging of the skin is thus significantly slowed down. The ability of (skin) cells to maintain their division is limited. Depending on the cell type, a cell of the human body lives for a maximum of 2 years. The limit is called the hayflick limit. Each division reduces the number of possible divisions. The genetic information containing chromosomes in the nucleus have at their ends the so-called telomeres. Simplified, these ensure that the division of the division proceeds correctly. But they become shorter with each cell division. Added to this is the harmful effect of free radicals. These attack the telomeres and shorten them further. When the Hayflick limit is reached, the cells die down. They then divide less often, become increasingly unstructured or degenerate. Once the telomeres are finally reduced to a certain length, the cell no longer divides, but depending on the species lives on for another year or two, only to die off. However, the preparation according to the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex, can contribute to the fact that the affected (skin) cells live longer and retain a better ability to divide. Thus, the preparation according to the invention makes it possible to keep youthful appearance longer , In addition, the visual symptoms of aging of the skin (eg, fine lines and wrinkles, brown spots, and uneven skin tone) can be significantly reduced, ie, a qualitative improvement in the appearance of the skin is achieved. For example, after a few days or weeks, the symptoms of skin aging can be considered to be significantly reduced, both in the case of self-assessment by the applicator or in the case of external evaluation by a third party.

Aging processes of the skin can be considerably accelerated by an excess of free radicals, which can have a cell-damaging effect, so that premature, massive skin aging. Therefore, human skin has developed protection systems to control particularly aggressive oxygen radicals. Normally, there is a natural balance between the formation of free radicals and the mechanisms preventing their spread throughout the organism. This balanced balance is one of the most important prerequisites to keep the skin healthy, to protect against premature aging, to prevent inflammation, redness, itching and even skin diseases. If an excess of free radicals in the skin, the body's own protection systems are not sufficient, the skin can be supplied to prevent damage such protective systems. This allows the preparation according to the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex.

The preparation according to the invention, preferably with an anti-aging complex, can have an antioxi dative action and intercept free radicals which stabilize and protect the highly sensitive cell membrane. The skin-lipid barrier which is decisive for the protection of the skin can be better stabilized with the aid of the preparation according to the invention, preferably with an anti-aging complex, and its regeneration is promoted.

In particular, the preparation according to the invention, preferably with aging protection complex, can protect the skin's own cell and energy metabolism, it can protect and regenerate skin's own antioxidants, it can protect and regenerate the skin's own repair and enzyme systems.

Overall, the preparation of the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex, therefore, help that the tissue is rebuilt between the skin cells, that the ability of the skin to retain moisture is restored, that the thickness of the skin is increased, that the elasticity of the skin is improved.

In particular, it should be emphasized that the preparation according to the invention, preferably with anti-aging complex, has good bioavailability, so that active substance applied to the surface of the skin is absorbed very well in the living skin layers and can interact positively with the skin's own systems. Thus, the mechanisms of skin aging at the cellular level can be positively influenced.

The preparation according to the invention may also contain silicone oil (s). These can be very well tolerated by the skin since they are just as breathable on the skin as the natural plant oils; they do not form an opaque film, even at higher concentrations than mineral oils. The agent according to the invention can therefore have a content of cyclic and / or linear silicone oils. Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane). Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate. Also cationically modified silicone oils can be used with advantage. For example, phenyltrimethicone can also be selected as silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, behenoxydimethicone, are also advantageously to be used in the context of the present invention.

Silicone oil (s) are preferably contained in the preparation in amounts of from 0.1 to 35% by weight, based on the total preparation. The lower limit may also be advantageously in embodiments such as 0.5, 1, 0, 1, 5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5 or 5.0 wt .-% are. The upper limit in preferred embodiments can advantageously also be values such as 30, 25, 20, 15 or 10 wt .-%.

Another object of the present invention is a process for preparing a preparation according to the invention, wherein in such a method, the starting mixture comprising at least water and the 4 active complexes prior to emulsification preferably with a thickening agent, in particular fatty alcohol and / or nonionic silicone surfactant ver¬ sets and is pre-emulsified with a stirrer. The fine emulsification is preferably carried out in a second step, including this mixture a high-pressure homogenizer at least 400th bar, in particular at least 600 bar and at a temperature of below 50 ⁰ C, preferably below 46 ° C is supplied.

For the high-pressure homogenization preferably 1 to 5 passes are provided, preferably 2 to 4, so that a further improved stability results.

Advantageously, very stable emulsions, in particular nanoemulsions, can be produced by this process. In particular, the nanoemulsions thus prepared are not only excellent in stability, but also have an excellent spreadability on the skin, as well as an excellent penetration ability into the skin.

Another object of the invention is a product consisting of a Applikationsvor¬ direction, preferably a spray applicator and a preparation according to the invention.

Another subject of the invention is a substrate impregnated with a preparation according to the invention.

Another object of the invention is the use of the invention Zube¬ preparations to improve the skin elimination.

It is highly preferred according to the invention, not only with regard to the last-mentioned use, but to the entire invention, if the preparation according to the invention contains natural γ-linolenic acid sources, preferably hemp oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, the blackcurrant seed oil, Echium oil, trichodesma oil and / or black seed oil as γ-linolenic acid source. The seed oils of other species from the families of Boraginaceous, Scrophulariaceae, Onagraceae and / or Saxifragaceae are also preferably used as γ-linolenic acid sources. The most beneficial in terms of skin elasticity is the borage oil.

The natural γ-linolenic acid in the form of the above-mentioned oils, for example borage and night candle oil, actively intervenes in the metabolism and especially in prostaglandin synthesis and thus positively influences the condition of the skin. In combination with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention, it becomes positive Influence and strengthen the natural γ-linolenic acid in the form of the above oils, the effect of other active complexes. The capillary bleeding is improved, the natural ability to hydrate increased, the skin fat is stimulated and promote skin healing, especially the healing of fine cracks on the skin surface.

Another object of the invention are moldings which contain a preparation according to the invention, preferably for peroral application.

In this context, shaped bodies are understood in particular to be tablets, dragees and capsules, which are particularly suitable for peroral application.

Tablets are prepared by pressing powder mixtures or granules containing the erfin¬ inventive preparation at least partially under (high) pressure in a mold. Dragees are tablet cores which are provided with a coating, preferably of digestible plastic materials. The preparation of tablets, capsules and dragees is familiar to the person skilled in the art or he can use the relevant specialist literature or reference works such as Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by John Wiley & Sons.

In the case of the capsules, soft gelatin capsules are preferred, in particular in the form of round or egg-shaped uniform hollow bodies. These contain the preparation according to the invention. Advantageously, the capsules are manually (slightly) open, so that their contents can also be applied to the skin.

Although the shaped bodies are highly preferred for peroral application, the preparation according to the invention is also suitable in flowable form (drops and juices) for peroral application.

Examples:

The following preparation according to the invention was prepared in a high-pressure homogenizer. It is a nanoemulsion. The droplet size d ₅₀ is 180 nm.

- Tocomix L70 = mixture of alpha-, beta-, gamma-, delta- tocopherol in sunflower oil (tocopherol content 70% by weight) ex Jan Dekker Nederland B: V.

- Dehydrol® LS2 DEO N = _C12 fatty alcohol i ₄ + 2 EO from Cognis Germany GmbH

- Eumulgin B2 / B3 = mixture of 50 wt .-% Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO and 50 wt .-% Cestylstearylalkohol + 30-EO ex ex Cognis Germany GmbH

- Lanette O = C ₁₆ fatty alcohol ex Cognis Deutschland GmbH This preparation was very stable, even under adverse conditions, eg. B. when stored for 1 week at 50 ⁰ C, the preparation was unchanged stable, also after centrifugation at a centrifugal acceleration of 36000 g (at 20 ⁰ C, duration: 3 minutes) and 15000 g (at 40 ⁰ C; 3 minutes), the preparation was unchanged stable.

The effect of this preparation according to the invention was tested against a high-quality commercially available facial care product.

This comparison product was "5% urea face cream" of the brand Eucerin® from Beiersdorf.

"5% Urea Face Cream" is also an O / W emulsion intended for the care of dry skin, which, according to the manufacturer, quickly and permanently increases the moisture binding capacity of the skin, reduces the feeling of tightness and absorbs very quickly and does not contain fragrances and fragrances Dyes. "5% urea face cream" is according to manufacturer's information especially for preventive use in constitutional, um- or occupationally conditioned forms of dry skin and is also the therapy-accompanying care in all dermatoses such as ichthyosis, psoriasis, eczema, atopic dermatitis suitable.

Therefore, "5% urea face cream" was selected as a representative comparison to the preparation according to the invention The comparison product was purchased commercially in April 2004. It contains the following ingredients (INCI): Aqua • Urea • Glycerol • Triisostearin • Pentaerythrityl tetra-stearate • Cyclomethicone • Dimeticone • Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride • Cetyl Alcohol • Sodium Lactate • Glyceryl Stearate • Biosaccharide Gum-1 • Benzyl Alcohol • PEG-40 Stearate • Methylparaben • Lactic Acid • Lanolin Alcohol

These ingredients belong to the following active complexes:

Acid Buffer: Lactic Acid

Moisture regulator: urea, glycerin, biosaccharides Gum-1, sodium lactate (note: sodium lactate is also a weak buffer)

Skin Greasing / Emollient: Triisostearin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cyclomethicone,

Dimethicone, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Lanolin Alcohol

Preservation: Methylparaben, Benzyl Alcohol Emulsifiers: PEG-40 Stearates, Glyceryl Stearates,

Bodying agent: Cetyl Alcohol

The difference to the preparation according to the invention thus lies in the active complexes: The vitamin complex according to the invention, consisting of at least two vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors is completely absent. Furthermore, the lipid supply is different. The active complex of the preparation according to the invention of at least 3% by weight of natural fatty oils, which have iodine numbers of more than 95 and preferably more than 70% C-18 fatty acids, differs markedly from the components provided for skin moisturization in 5% urea face cream ".

The interaction of the individual active complexes according to the constellation according to the invention now leads to an improved overall effect in the sense of an optimal full supply of the skin. Only if all 4 active complexes according to the invention are present in one preparation at a time and at least 8 active substances are present and can thus interact with the application, does their superior activity spectrum unfold.

This will be apparent from the following investigations:

a) Moisture content of the skin

The effect of the preparation according to the invention and of "5% urea face cream" on the moisture content of the skin after a single use in comparison was investigated Morning applied in a defined amount to the forearm on 2 different test areas A control area was not treated The skin moisture was measured by means of Comeometer (CM 825, Courage & Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany) before the application and 14, 1 , 2, 4, 6, 8 and 24 hours after the application in comparison The results are shown on the drawing sheet 1/1 in Figure 1. The starting position differences were compared in this Figure 1. The starting position differences are taken into account The different starting values of the individual subjects compared to the area treated with "5% urea face cream" led to a further improvement in skin hydration at all times. Even after a period of 24 hours after the Application, the skin moisture was even better.

b) fat content of the skin

The measurement was carried out with the Sebumeter SM 810 (COURAGE + KHAZAKA ELECTRONIC GMBH, Cologne, Germany). The measuring time (pressure time) on the skin was 30 seconds with a uniform pressure of 3 N at the take-off point on the skin. The effect of the application on the fat content of the skin was examined on the forearm of 6 subjects, with all subjects having atopic skin.

Sebumeter values were determined before the first application and after 4 weeks of application. The preparation was applied daily for 4 weeks in the morning in a defined amount on the forearm on 1 test area.

The fat content of the skin, which is important for the natural protection, increased more markedly when using the preparation according to the invention over the 4 weeks in all subjects than when using "5% urea face cream", as shown in the following tables Advantageously, the skin shone despite the good supply of fat, it did not feel smooth, but not greasy The participants, who all had atopic skin, also reported excellent compatibility of the preparation according to the invention.

Application of the preparation according to the invention

Person Sebumeter value before administration Sebumeter value after 4 weeks application

1 1 7

2 1 10

3 2 13

4 0 12

5 0 12

6 0 9

Average 0.666 10.5

Application of "5% Urea Face Cream"

1 2 5

2 1 1

3 1 1

4 1 2

5 0 2

6 0 3

Average 0.833 2.333 c) elasticity of the skin (torsion measurement)

The elasticity measurements were carried out with the DTM 310 torsion device (Dia-Stron, England). With a probe weight of 100 g, the measurement was carried out with the following parameters: Gap size: 1 mm Torque: 10 nmNm Torsion-on-time: 5 seconds Torsion-off-time: 5 seconds Cycles: 1

The subject's forearm was perpendicular to the upper arm during the measurement, the palms facing up. The measuring point was flat, without hair. With a marked band, which was attached with a ring on the middle finger of the subject, the measuring point could be determined exactly at each measurement time.

The quotient Ur / Ue is used as a measure of skin elasticity and describes the elastic function (References: EEMCO Guidance to the in vivo Assessment of Tensile Functional Properties of the skin.) Luis Rodrigues, EEMCO Group, Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2001; 14: 52-67). Ue is the initial skin extensibility / deformation (Immediate Skin Extensibility) and Ur is the initial skin recovery / recovery (Immediate Skin Recovery). In an improvement of the elasticity of the skin Ur / Ue should be greater.

As the following figures illustrate, the skin elasticity of the skin treated with the composition of the invention improved more than that treated with the urea 5% face cream.

Ur / Ue Ur / Ue

90 minutes 180 minutes

Urea 5% Face Cream 0.08 (-0.01) 0.05 (-0.01)

Req. Preparation 0.11 (-0.01) 0.07 (-0.01)

The values in parentheses correspond to untreated skin. Both after 90 minutes and after 180 minutes, the skin elasticity was in the case of the preparation according to the invention better (higher Ur / Ue).

The values give the average resulting from measurements on 10 people, with each measurement being repeated 4 times on each person.

All the above examples have shown that the preparation according to the invention, as a result of the interaction of its 4 specific active complexes, achieves an overall improved action over a representative selected, high-quality commercially available facial care product. The improved effect affects skin hydration and fat content as well as skin elasticity. The composition according to the invention essentially provides the skin with its 4 active complexes with a complete spectrum of its own natural constituents and thereby enables the best possible full supply of the skin from the outside. The interaction of the 4 specific active complexes makes it possible to obtain a maximum of care up to the support of skin healing, as has been found in individual examples with regard to dandruff, atopic dermatitis, sunburn and scars.

Claims

claims

1. Skin cosmetic preparation which contains at least eight active ingredients in a total amount of at least 20 wt .-% and comprises the following active complexes: a) acid buffer, consisting of at least one acid and a salt b) vitamin complex consisting of at least two vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors c) moisture regulators consisting of at least two non-ionic active ingredients d) at least 3% by weight of natural fatty oils having iodine numbers of more than 95.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it is present as an emulsion.

3. A preparation according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the natural fatty oils include oils comprising a high content of esterified polyunsaturated fatty acids, preferably selected from evening primrose oil, Johan nisbeerkemöl, borage oil, Echiumöl, Trichodesmaöl , Black cumin oil, rosehip seed oil, sand dome oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, seed oil and / or sunflower oil.

4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains plant extracts of the aloe vera plant.

5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains at least one mimetic peptide.

6. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains naturli¬ che or nature identical antioxidants.

7. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it has an α value of greater than 0.5, wherein the α value is given by formula (I)

α = amount of active ingredient / (total amount of the preparation - amount of water) (formula (I)) .wobei the amount is based on wt .-%.

8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, characterized in that at least one skin-tightening active ingredient, preferably selected from nettle oil, carrot seed oil, horsetail, galbanum, apricot kernel and / or borage oil or mixtures thereof, is included.

9. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it has a minimum content of oils of 8 wt .-%.

10. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains 20 to 80 wt .-% of water.

11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it contains tea tree oil.

12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, characterized in that at least two surfactants are contained.

13. A preparation according to claim 12, characterized in that nonionic surfactants are ent hold.

14. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, characterized in that an anti-aging complex ("anti-aging" complex) is contained, which comprises at least 2 ingredients, advantageously selected from

(a) the group of peptides,

(b) the polyphenols,

(c) the plant (seed) extracts or powder,

(d) proteins of plant origin,

(e) animal proteins

(f) amino acids.

15. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 14, characterized in that silicone oil (s) are included.

16. Product consisting of an application device and a preparation according to ei¬ nem of claims 1 to 15.

17. Substrate, characterized in that it is impregnated with a preparation according to any of An¬ claims 1 to 15 substrate.

18. Shaped body containing a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for perora¬ len application.

19. Use of the preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 15 for the improvement of skin elasticity.