WO2005094781A1 - Liquid cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers - Google Patents
Liquid cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers Download PDFInfo
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- WO2005094781A1 WO2005094781A1 PCT/EP2005/003243 EP2005003243W WO2005094781A1 WO 2005094781 A1 WO2005094781 A1 WO 2005094781A1 EP 2005003243 W EP2005003243 W EP 2005003243W WO 2005094781 A1 WO2005094781 A1 WO 2005094781A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/737—Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/434—Luminescent, Fluorescent; Optical brighteners; Photosensitizers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
- A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
- A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
Definitions
- the present invention relates to detergent compositions suitable for topical application for cleansing the human body, such as the skin and hair.
- compositions containing particulate optical modifier (s) that change the appearance of the skin after wash off are particularly preferred.
- the visual appearance of skin is normally changed by using personal care compositions that are left on the skin. However, it would be useful if the visual appearance of skin could also be changed by using cleansing compositions that are washed off the skin. Such products would be beneficial to consumers who are looking for multiple functionalities in their cleansing products, such as cleansers that simultaneously cleanse and moisturize.
- products that cleanse the skin will also make it shine, sparkle, or glow by leaving behind solid particles that affect the interaction of light with the skin.
- These cleansers would save consumers the time required to apply a leave-on product that will change the visual appearance of the skin, and will also give them the benefit of appearing more attractive.
- these cleansers could also contain moisturizers and emollients to condition the skin, and one or more active agents which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit.
- Prior art skin cleansers modify the way the skin feels after the shower by depositing materials such as oils or polymers. Such materials deposit on the skin by various mechanisms, including attraction of cationic materials to the anionic surface of the skin. However, materials that change the feel of the skin do not generally change the look of the skin.
- U.S. Patent no. 6395691 issued to Tsaur on May 28, 2002 directed to a personal wash liquid formulation discloses the use of a particle-in-oil dispersion to deliver solid particles to the skin that are effected by adjusting "the size of the oil droplet and the size ratio between the oil droplet and the particles, and employs large droplets of petrolatum or thickened oil to deposit particles.
- the composition of Tsaur contains 2 % to 20 % by wt. of such a particle-in-oil dispersion.
- Cosmetic formulations that are left on the skin and contain solid particles to modify the skin appearance are well known.
- many current ly available lotions contain mica coated with titanium diox ide or iron oxide that make the sl in sparkle .
- Wash-off cleans er formulations that contain solid particles to modify the appearance of the cleanser itself are also well known .
- many currently available body wash products contain mica coated with titanium dioxide to give the product a shimmexing appearance .
- cleanser formulations may contain solid particles to give the formulation abrasive characteristics and to exfoliate the skin .
- Many products that are marketed as exfoliating cleansers contain particl es such as polyethylene or various fruit seeds to scrub the skin .
- the solid particles are deposited when the phase separation initiator causes the polymer to form a liquid crystal phase .
- surfactant selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures tk ⁇ ereof;
- s selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures tk ⁇ ereof;
- b 0.1 % to 10 % of a cationic polymer;
- an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on ski_n characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Valo.es L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual- Assessment Protocol described below.
- a solid particulate optical modifier onto the skin from a liquid cleansing composition comprising:
- surfaotant selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thiereof;
- a % to 10 % of a cationic polymer (c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Valu.es L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical propexties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below; (d) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (e) rinsing off said cleansing composition.
- liquid cleansing composition comprising:
- surfact nt selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphotexic or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof;
- a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Values L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and am opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical propexties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.
- the inventive composition further comprises:
- a thickening agent [a) a thickening agent; (b) wherein the viscosity of the cleansing composition is in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps, preferably 5,000 to 50,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25°C using the cone and plate method described belovj; and, (c) wherein the cleansing composition is iso tropic.
- the inventive cleansing composition further comprises :
- a surfactant system including at least one surfactant select ed from an anionic, amphoteric, cationic and nonionic surfactant and mixtures thereof, wherein at least one anionic surfactant must be present; (b) 0.1 % to 15 % by wt .
- the ordered liquid crystalline phase induci g structurant is selected from a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl fatty acid or ester there of, a C8 to C24 alkenyl or branched alkyl alcohol or ether thereof, a C5 to C14 linear alkyl fatty acid, trihydroxystearin, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; more preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase inducing structurant i s selected from lauric acid, oleic acid, palm kerne 1 acid, palm fatty acid, coconut acid, isosteari c acid, or derivatives or mixtures thereof; and still more preferably wherein the ordered liquid crystalline phase has lamellar structure; (c) wherein said ordered liquid crystalline phase composition has a viscosity of 40,000 to 300,000 cps at 25°C as measured via
- the visual attribute targeted by the optical modifier is selected from skin shine, skin color or skin optical uniformity, and combinations thereof.
- These attributes can be further estimated by way of L value, reflectance change and opacity change using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below.
- the change in L value is in the range from 0 to +10
- the reflectance change is in the ran e from 0 to +300 %
- the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +20 % with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin shine when said cl eansing composition is applied to skin and then rinse d off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt .
- the paxticulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions whe ⁇ rein: i) the exterior surface has a refractive index off 1.8 to 4.0; ii) the geometry is platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof; and iii) the specific dimensions are 10 to 200 ⁇ m average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or iO to 200 ⁇ m in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 ⁇ m in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle.
- the change in L value is in the range from 0 to +10
- the change in the a* value is in the range from 0 to +10
- the change in the b* value is in the range from 0 to +10
- the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +50 %
- the reflectance change is within the normal skin reflectivity range of +10 %, with the proviso that the change in L value, b* and opacity change are not all zerro so as to provide noticeable skin lightening or color change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocoi; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt .
- the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein: i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 4.0; ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy or a blend thereof; iii) the specific dimensions are 1 to 30 ⁇ m average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 0.1 to 1 ⁇ m in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle; and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.
- the change in L value is in the range from 0 to +5
- the reflectance change is in the range from 0 to +100 %
- the change in opacity is in the range from 0 to +50 %
- the change in a* and b* are within normal skin color range of +10 % for each of a* or b*, with the proviso that the change in L value, reflectance change and opacity change are not all zero so as to provide noticeable skin optical uniformity change when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol; preferably wherein greater than 10 % by wt .
- the particulate optical modifier is further defined by an exterior surface refractive index, geometry, and specific dimensions wherein: i) the exterior surface has a refractive index of 1.3 to 2.0 ii) the geometry is spheroidal, platy, cylindrical or a blend thereof iii) the specific dimensions are 0.1 to 200 ⁇ m in average diameter in the case of a spheroidal particle, 1 to 10 ⁇ m average diameter in the case of a platy particle, or 1 to 10 ⁇ m in average length and 0.5 to 5.0 ⁇ m in average diameter in the case of a cylindrical particle, and iv) optionally having fluorescence color, absorption color, interference color or a combination thereof.
- the particulate optical modifier is composed predominately of platy particles further defined by having an average plate diameter of 10 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m and a refractive index of at least 1.8 (preferably having an average plate diameter of about 10 ⁇ m to 100 ⁇ m and a refractive index of at least about 2) ; and more preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier contains a surface modification selected from amino acids, proteins, fatty acids, lipids, phospholipids (lecithin) , anionic and/or cationic oligomers/polymers or blends or derivatives thereof to enhance the deposition of the optical modifier on to the skin.
- the inventive composition contains a cationic polymer having a charge density of at least 0.7 Meq/g (more preferably at least about 0.8, 0.9 or 1.0 Meq/g); still more preferably wherein the cationic polymer is selected from
- the inventive composition contains an anionic surfactant and optionally an amphoteric surfactant, preferably wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from a C8-C16 alkyl sulfate and/or alkyl ether sulfates, fatty acid soaps, taurates, sulfosuccinates, glycinates, sarcosinates or blends thereof and the amphoteric surfactant is selected from amphoacetates, betaines and amidoalkyl betaines or derivatives or blends thereof.
- the ratio of anionic surfactant to a surfactant that has a positive charge at a pH of 6.5 or below is in the range of 15:1 to 1:2; in the case of the isotropic composition and is in the range of about 6:1 to about 1:2 in the case of the liquid crystalline structured composition.
- the surfactant with the positive charge is an amphoteric surfactant; and more preferably wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine, alkyla idopropyl betaine, sulphobetaine, amphoacetate or blends thereof.
- the solid particulate optical modifier has an average diameter of at least 30 microns (preferably at least about 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 120, 140, or 150 microns) .
- the solid particulate optical modifier is present in a minimum concentration of at least 0.2 % by wt . (preferably at least about 0.25, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, 0.9, or 1 % by wt . ) .
- the thickening agent for the isotropic composition is selected from polyacrylates; silica; natural and synthetic waxes; aluminum silicate; lanolin derivatives; C8 to C20 fatty alcohols polyethylene copolymers; polyammonium carboxylates; sucrose esters; hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; cellulose derivatives, polysaccharide derivatives, or derivatives and mixtures thereof.
- the isotropic composition is structured with a structurant selected from swelling clays; cross- linked polyacrylates; acrylate homopolymers and copolymers; polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers; polyethylene imines; inorganic salts; sucrose esters, gellants or blends and derivatives thereof.
- a structurant selected from swelling clays; cross- linked polyacrylates; acrylate homopolymers and copolymers; polyvinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and copolymers; polyethylene imines; inorganic salts; sucrose esters, gellants or blends and derivatives thereof.
- inventive isotropic structured composition further comprises an emollient having a weight average emollient particle size in the range of 1 to 500 microns; preferably wherein the composition contains less than 10 % by wt . of hydrophobic emollient (s) .
- the isotropic composition has less than 50 % by wt. (preferably less than about 40, 30, 20, 10, or 5 % by wt . ) of the solid particulate optical modifier suspended in an oil.
- the isotropic composition contains less than about 10 % by wt . (preferably less than 5, 2, 1, 0.5, 0.1 or 0.05 % by wt . ) of hydrophobic emollient (s) (as defined below) .
- the composition contains at least 7 wt %; preferably 10 to 25 wt % of the surfactant, and preferably the particulate optical modifier is selected from organic pigments, inorganic pigments, polymers, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, colored iron oxide, chromium oxide/hydroxide/hydrate, alumina, silica, zirconia, barium sulfate, silicates, polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon, ultramarine, alkaline earth carbonates, talc, sericite, mica, synthetic mica, polymers, platy substrate coated with organic and inorganic materials, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, or blends and physical aggregates thereof; more preferably wherein the particulate optical modifier possesses color generated through fluorescence, adsorption, iridescence or a combination thereof.
- the inventive composition comprises greater than 30 % by weight water.
- % of surfactant selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof; (b) 0.1 % to 10 % of a cationic polymer; (c) an effective concentration of a solid particulate optical modifier for exhibiting a specific set of optical properties on skin characterized by a set of Tristimulus Color Values L, a*, and b*; a reflectivity change, and an opacity change, that provides at least a 5 % change in at least one of the specific optical properties when said cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol described below; (d) applying said cleansing composition to the skin or hair; and (e) rinsing off said cleansing composition.
- surfactant selected from an anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant or mixtures thereof.
- Surfactants are an essential component of the inventive cleansing composition. They are compounds that have hydrophobic and hydrophilic portions that act to reduce the surface tension of the aqueous solutions they are dissolved in. Useful surfactants can include anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and cationic surfactants, and blends thereof.
- the cleansing composition of the present invention may contain one or more anionic detergents.
- Anionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 3 or 5 or 7 % by wt . , and at levels as high as 12 or 15 % by wt .
- the anionic detergent active which may be used may be aliphatic sulfonates, such as a primary alkane (e.g., C8-C22) sulfonate, primary alkane (e.g., C8-C 2 2) disulfonate, C 8 -C 22 alkene sulfonate, C 8 -C2 2 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS) ; or aromatic sulfonates such as alkyl benzene sulfonate.
- a primary alkane e.g., C8-C22
- primary alkane e.g., C8-C 2 2 2
- disulfonate C 8 -C 22 alkene sulfonate
- C 8 -C2 2 hydroxyalkane sulfonate or alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS)
- the anionic may also be an alkyl sulfate (e.g., C 1 2-C18 alkyl sulfate) or an alkyl ether sulfate (including alkyl glyceryl ether sulfates) .
- alkyl ether sulfates are those having the formula: RO(CH 2 CH2 ⁇ ) n S0 3 M
- R is an alkyl or alkenyl having 8 to 18 carbons, preferably 12 to 18 carbons, n has an average value of greater than 1.0, preferably greater than 3; and M is a solubilizing cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium. Ammonium and sodium lauryl ether sulfates are preferred.
- the anionic may also be alkyl sulf osuccinates (including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulf osuccinates) ; alkyl and acyl taurates, alkyl and acyl sarcosinates, sulf oacetates, C ⁇ _ C22 alkyl phosphates and phosphates, alkyl phosphate esters and alkoxyl alkyl phosphate esters, acyl lactates, C8-C22 monoalkyl succinates and maleates, sulphoacetates, alkyl glucosides and acyl isethionates, and the like.
- alkyl sulf osuccinates including mono- and dialkyl, e.g., C6-C22 sulf osuccinates
- alkyl and acyl taurates alkyl and acyl sarcosinates,
- Sulf osuccinates may be monoalkyl sulf osuccinates having the formula:
- R ranges from C8-C 20 alkyl and M is a solubilizing cation.
- Taurates are generally identified by formula: R 2 CONR 3 CH 2 CH 2 S0 3 M
- R ranges from C8-C 2 0 alkyl
- R ranges from C 1 -C 4 alkyl
- M is a solubilizing cation.
- the inventive cleansing composition may contain Cs-Cis acyl isethionates .
- These esters are prepared by reaction between alkali metal isethionate with mixed aliphatic fatty acids having from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and an iodine value of less than 20. At least 75 % of the mixed fatty acids have from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and up to 25 % have from 6 to 10 carbon atoms .
- the acyl isethionate may be an alkoxylated isethionate such as is described in Ilardi et al., U.S. Patent No. 5,393,466, titled "Fatty Acid Esters of Polyalkoxylated isethonic acid", issued February 28, 1995; hereby incorporated by reference.
- This compound has the general formula: O X Y II i i R C-0-CH-CH 2 - (OCH-CH2) m -S0 3 M +
- R is an alkyl group having 8 to 18 carbons
- m is an integer from 1 to 4
- X and Y are hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbons
- M is a monovalent cation such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium.
- amphoteric surfactants may be used in this invention.
- Amphoteric surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5 or 0.8 %, and at levels as high as 4 or 5 % by wt . for isotropic compostions or levels as low as 1 or 2 % by wt. and at levels as high as 6 or 8 % by wt . for ordered liquid crystalline compositions.
- Such surfactants include at least one acid group. This may be a carboxylic or a sulphonic acid group. They include quaternary nitrogen and therefore are quaternary amido acids . They should generally include an alkyl or alkenyl group of 7 to 18 carbon atoms. They will usually comply with an overall structural formula:
- R is alkyl or alkenyl of 7 to 18 carbon atoms; R and 3 R are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 3 carbon atoms; n is 2 to 4 ; is 0 to 1; X is alkylene of 1 to 3 carbon atoms optionally substituted with hydroxyl, and Y is -CO 2 - or -SO3-
- Suitable amphoteric surfactants within the above general formula include simple betaines of formula:
- n 2 or 3
- R may in particular be a mixture of C 1 2 and C1 alkyl groups derived from ' coconut oil so that at least half, preferably at 1 least three quarters of the groups R have 10 to 14 carbon 2 3 atoms.
- R and R are preferably methyl.
- amphoteric detergent is a sulphobetaine of formula: R
- Amphoacetates and diamphoacetates are also intended to be covered in possible zwitterionic and/or amphoteric compounds which may be used such as e.g., sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, and blends thereof, and the like.
- Nonionic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition of the present invention.
- Nonionic surfactants are preferably used at levels as low as 0.5 or
- the nonionics which may be used include in particular the reaction products of compounds having a hydrophobic group and a reactive hydrogen atom, for example aliphatic alcohols , acids, amides or alkylphenols with alkylene oxides , especially/ ethylene oxide either alone or with propylene oxide .
- Specific nonionic detergent compounds are alkyl (Cg-C 22 ) phenols ethylene oxide condensates , the condensation products of aliphatic (Cs-Cis ) primary or secondary linear or branched alcohols with ethylene oxide, and products made by condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction products of propylene oxide and ethylenediamine .
- Other so— called nonionic detergent compounds include long chain tertiary amine oxides , long chain tertiary phosphine oxides and dialkyl sulphoxide, and the like .
- the nonionic may also be a sugar amide, such as a polysacchsride amide .
- the surfactant may be one of the lactobionamides described in U . S . Patent No . 5, 389, 279 to Au et al . titled “Compositions Comprising Nonionic Glycolipid Surfactants” issued February 14 , 1995 ; which is hereby incorporated by reference, or it may be one of the sugar amides described in Patent No .
- Suitable thickening agents can be added as a structurant when the composition is isotropic.
- Suitable thickening agents include polacrylates; fumed silica natural and synthetic waxes, alkyl silicone waxes such as behenyl silicone wax; aluminium silicate; lanolin derivatives such as lanesterol; C8 to C20 fatty alcohols; polyethylenecopolymers; polyammonium stearate; sucrose esters; hydrophobic clays; petrolatum; hydrotalcites; and mixtures thereof, and the like.
- Hydrotalcites are materials of general formula:
- M is a divalent metal ion e.g. Mg.
- N is a tr ⁇ valent 3+ metal ion e.g. Al.
- X is an exchangeable anion e.g. CO.3"
- stearate, cinnimate is the number of divalent metal ions; and n is the number of trivalent metal ions.
- Particularly preferred thickening agents include silica, alkyl silicone waxes, paraffin wax, C8 to C20 fatty alcohols, petroleum jelly and polyethylene copolymers, blends thereof and the like.
- the emollient and thickening function cannot be provided by the same component.
- the amount of thickening agent may be as low as 1 % by wt . and may be up to 5, 10, 15, 20 or 25 % by weight.
- the isotropic compositions of the invention may be self-structuring, preferably they will also comprise a structurant, i.e. a material added to increase the viscosity at zero shear.
- a structurant i.e. a material added to increase the viscosity at zero shear.
- Suitable materials include swelling clays, for example laponite; fatty acids and derivatives hereof and, in particular fatty acid monoglyceride polyglycol ethers; cross-linked polyacrylates such as Carbopol (TM) (polymers available from Goodrich) ; acrylates and copolymers thereof e.g.
- Suitable electrolytes include alkali and alkaline earth salts such as halides, ammonium saits and sulphates, blends thereof and the like.
- a necessary component in compositions according to the invention is a cationic skin feel conditioning agent or polymer, such as for example cationic celluloses.
- Cationic polymers are preferably used at levels as low as 0.2 or 0.3, and at levels as high as 1 or 1.5 % by wt . in the case of an isotropic composition, or at levels as low as 0.2 or 0.3 % and at levels as high as 0.8 or 1 % by wt . in the case of an ordered liquid crystalline composition.
- Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR (trade mark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trlmethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
- CTFA trlmethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
- Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200.
- a particularly suitable type of cationic polysaccharide polymer that can be used is a cationic guar gum derivative, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (Commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc in their JAGUAR trademark series) .
- Examples are JAGUAR C13S, which has a low degree of substitution of the cationic groups and high viscosity, JAGUAR C15, having a moderate degree of substitution and a low viscosity, JAGUAR C17 (high degree of substitution, high viscosity) , JAGUAR C16, which is a hydroxypropylated cationic guar derivative containing a low level of substituent groups as well as cationic quaternary ammonium groups, and JAGUAR 162 which is a high transparency, medium viscosity guar having a low degree of: substitution.
- Particularly preferred cationic polymers are JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 and JAGUAR C16 and JAGUAR C162, especially Jaguar C13S.
- Other cationic skin feel agents known in the art may be used provided that they are compatible with the inventive formulation.
- One or more cationic surfactants may also be used in the cleansing composition.
- Cationic surfactants may be used at levels as low as 0.1, 0.3, 0.5 or 1 , and at levels as high as 2, 3, 4 or 5 % by wt .
- cationic detergents are the quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyldimethylammonium halogenides.
- inventive cleansing composition of the invention may include 0 to 15 % by wt .
- optional ingredients as follows: perfumes; sequestering agents, sucti as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) , EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1 %, preferabiy 0.01 to 0.05 %; and coloring agents, opacifiers and pearlizers such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, Ti ⁇ 2 EGMS (ethylene glycol monostearate) or Lytron 621 (Styrene/Acrylate copolymer) and the like; all of which are useful in enhancing the appearance or cosmetic properties of the product.
- perfumes perfumes
- sequestering agents sucti as tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) , EHDP or mixtures in an amount of 0.01 to 1 %, preferabiy 0.01 to 0.05 %
- compositions may further comprise antimicrobials such as
- 2-hydroxy-4,2 ' , 4' trichlorodiphenylether DP300
- preservatives such as dimethyloldimethylhydantoin (Glydant XL1000), parabens, sorbic acid etc., and the like.
- compositions may also comprise coconut acyi mono- or diethanol amides as suds boosters, and strongly/ ionizing salts such as sodium chloride and sodium sulfaie may also be used to advantage.
- Antioxidants such as, for example, butylated hvdroxytoluene (BHT) and the like may be used advantageously in amounts of 0.01 % or higher if appropriate.
- BHT butylated hvdroxytoluene
- Moisturizers that also are humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerine and propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols listed below and the like may be used.
- humectants such as polyhydric alcohols, e.g. glycerine and propylene glycol, and the like; and polyols such as the polyethylene glycols listed below and the like may be used.
- Hydrophobic and/or hydrophilic emollients may be used.
- hydrophilic emollients are used in excess of hydrophobic emollients in the inventive cleansing composition. Most preierably one or more hydrophilic emollients are used alone.
- Hydrophilic emollients are preferably present in a concentxation greater than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably greater than 0.5 % by weight.
- the inventive composition contains less than 10, 5, 3, 2, 1, 0.7, 0.5, 0.3, 0.2, 0.1, O.05 or 0.01 % by wt . of a hydrophobic emollient in the case of an isotropic composition.
- Hydrophobic emollients are prefexably present in a concentration greater than 3, 5, 7, 9, 10, 15, 20, or 25 % by weight in the case of an ordered liquid cxystalline composition.
- emollient is defined as a substance which softens or improves the elasticity, appearance, and ycuthfulness of the skin (stratum corneum) by either increasing its water content, adding, or replacing lipids and other skin nutrients, or both; and keeps it soft by retarding the decrease of its water content.
- Useful emollients include the following: (a) silicone oils and modifications thereof such as linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes ; amino, alkyl, alkylaryl, and aryl silicone oils; (b) fats and oils including natural fats and oils such as jojoba, soybean, sunflower, rice bran avocado, almond, olive, sesame, persic, castor, coconut, mink oils; cacao fat; beef tallow, lard; hardened oils obtained by hydrogenating the aforementioned oils; and synthetic mono-, di- and triglycerides such as myristic acid glyceride and 2-ethylhexanoi c acid glyceride;
- waxes such as carnauba, spermaceti, beeswax, lanolin, and derivatives thereof;
- hydrophobic and hydrophillic plant extracts (d) hydrophobic and hydrophillic plant extracts; (e) hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffins, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, ceresin, squalene, pristan and mineral oil;
- higher fatty acids such as lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, behenic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, lanolic, isostearic, arachidoni c and poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) ;
- esters such as cetyl octanoate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl adipate, butyl stearate, decyl oleate, cholesterol isostearate, glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol tristearate, alkyl lactate, alkyl citrate and alkyl tartrate; (i) essential oils and extracts thereof such a s mentha, jasmine, camphor, white cedar, bitter ora ge peel, ryu, turpentine, cinnamon, bergamot, citr s unshiu, calamus, pine, lavender, bay, clove,
- Preferred conditioning agents are selected from glycerin, triglyceride oils, mineral oils, petrolatum, and mixtures thereof.
- Further preferred emollients are glycerin, triglycerides such as shea butter and sunflower seed oil.
- the inventive cleansing composition possesses either isotropic micellar phase, ordered,- liquid crystalline phase microstructure (preferably lamellar microstructure structure), or a combination thereof! .
- the rheological behavior of all surfactant solutions, including liquid cleansing solutions, is strongly dependent on the microstructure, i.e., the shape and concentration of micelles or other self-assembled structures in solution.
- spherical, cylindrical (rod-like or discoidal) When there is sufficient surfactant to form micelles (concentrations above the critical micelle concentration or CMC), for example, spherical, cylindrical (rod-like or discoidal) , spherocylindrical or ellipsoidal micelles may form.
- ordered liquid crystalline phases such as lamellar phase, hexagonal phase, cubic phase or L3 sponge phase may form.
- the lamellar phase for example, consists of alternating surfactant bilayers and water layers . These layers are not generally flat, but fold to form submicron spherical onion like structures called vesicles or liposomes.
- the hexagonal phase on the other hand, consists of long cylindrical micelles arranged in a hexagonal lattice. In general, the microstructure of most personal care products consist of either spherical micelles, rod micelles, or a lamellar dispersion.
- micelles may be spherical or rod-like.
- Formulations having spherical micelles tend to have a low viscosity and exhibit Newtonian shear behavior (i.e., the viscosity stays constant as a function of shear rate; thus, if easy pouring of product is desired, the solution is less viscous and, as a consequence, it doesn't suspend as well) .
- the viscosity increases linearly with surfactant concentration.
- Rod micellar solutions are more viscous because movement of the longer micelles is restricted. At a critical shear rate, the micelles align and the solution becomes shear thinning. Addition of salts increases the size of the rod micelles thereof increasing zero shear viscosity (i.e., viscosity when sitting in bottle) which helps suspend particles, but also increases critical shear rate (i.e. the point at which the product becomes shear thinning; higher critical shear rates means product is more difficult to pour) .
- zero shear viscosity i.e., viscosity when sitting in bottle
- critical shear rate i.e. the point at which the product becomes shear thinning; higher critical shear rates means product is more difficult to pour
- Lamellar dispersions differ from both spherical and rod-like micelles because they can have high zero shear viscosity (because of the close packed arrangement of constituent lamellar droplets), yet these solutions are very shear thinning (e.g. readily dispense on pouring) . That is, the solutions can become thinner than rod micellar solutions at moderate shear rates.
- liquid cleansing compositions therefore, there is the choice of using rod-micellar solutions (whose zero shear viscosity, e.g., suspending ability, is not very good and/or are not very shear thinning) ; or lamellar dispersions (with higher zero shear viscosity, e.g. better suspending, and yet are very shear thinning) .
- rod-micellar solutions whose zero shear viscosity, e.g., suspending ability, is not very good and/or are not very shear thinning
- lamellar dispersions with higher zero shear viscosity, e.g. better suspending, and yet are very shear thinning
- Such lamellar compositions are characterized by high zero shear viscosity (good for suspending and/or structuring) while simultaneously being very shear thinning such that they readily dispense in pouring.
- Such compositions possess a "heaping", lotion-like appearance which convey signals of enhanced moisturization
- rod-micellar solutions When rod-micellar solutions are used, they also often require the use of external structurants to enhance viscosity and to suspend particles (again, because they have lower zero shear viscosity than lamellar phase solutions) . For this, carbomers and clays are often used. At higher shear rates (as in product dispensing, application of product to body, or rubbing with hands), since the rod- micellar solutions are less shear thinning, the viscosity of the solution stays high and the product can be stringy and thick. Lamellar dispersion based products, having higher zero shear viscosity, can more readily suspend emollients and are typically more creamy. In general, lamellar phase compositions are easy to identify by their characteristic focal conic shape and oily streak texture while hexagonal phase exhibits angular fan-like texture. In contrast, micellar phases are optically isotropic.
- lamellar phases may be formed in a wide variety of surfactant systems using a wide variety of lamellar phase "inducers" as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,952,286 issued to Puvvada, et al . , on September, 14, 1999.
- the transition from micelle to lamellar phase are functions of effective average area of headgroup of the surfactant, the length of the extended tail, and the volume of tail.
- branched surfactants or surfactants with smaller headgroups or bulky tails are also effective ways of inducing transitions from rod micellar to lamellar.
- isotropic compositions include cone and plate viscosity measurement as described below.
- the inventive isotropic composition has a viscosity in the range of 1,000 to 300,000 cps @ 1/sec shear rate at 25°C as measured by a cone and plate technique described below.
- the viscosity is in the range of 5,000 to 50,000 cps.
- One way of characterizing ordered liquid crystalline dispersions include measuring viscosity at low shear rate (using for example a Stress Rheometer) when additional inducer (e.g., oleic acid or isostearic acid) is used. At higher amounts of inducer, the low shear viscosity will significantly increase.
- Micrographs generally will show ordered liquid crystalline microstructure and close packed organization of the lamellar droplets (generally in size range of 2 microns).
- the inventive ordered liquid crystalline-isotropic composition preferably has a low shear viscosity in the range of 40,000 to 300,000 centipoises (cps) measured at 0.5 RPM using T-bar spindle A using the procedure described below. More preferably the viscosity range is 50,000 to 150,000 cps.
- compositions according to the present invention are that of solid particulate optical modifiers, preferably light reflecting platelet shaped or platy particles. These particles will preferably have an average particle size D50 ranging from 25,000 to 150,000 nm.
- the average particle size is a number average value.
- the platelets are assumed to have a circular shape with the diameter of the circular surface averaged over many particles.
- the thickness of the plate- like particles is considered to be a separate parameter.
- the platelets can have an average particle size of 35,000 nm and an average thickness of 400 nm.
- thickness is considered to range from 100 to 600 nm.
- Laser light scattering can be utilized for measurement, except that light scattered data has to be mathematically corrected from the spherical to the non- spherical shape.
- Optical and electron microscopy may be used to determine average particle size. Thickness is normally only determined via optical or electron microscopy.
- the refractive index of these particles is preferred to be at least 1.8, generally from 1.9 to 4, more preferably from 2 to 3, optimally between 2.5 and 2.8.
- Illustrative but not limiting examples of light reflecting particles are bismuth oxychloride (single crystal platelets) and titanium dioxide and/or iron oxide coated mica. Suitable bismuth oxychloride crystals are available from EM
- Biron® Silver CO wherein the platelets are dispersed in castor oil
- Biron® Liquid Silver wherein the particles are dispersed in a stearate ester
- titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industries, Inc. These include Timiron® MP-45 (particle size range 49,000 - 57,000 nm) , Timiron® MP- 99 (particle size range 47,000 - 57,000 nm) , Timiron® MP-47 (particle size range 28,000 - 38,000 nm) , Timiron® MP-149 (particle size range 65,000 - 82,000 nm) , and Timiron® MP-18 (particle size range 41,000 - 51,000 nm) . Most preferred is Timiron® MP-149.
- the weight ratio of titanium dioxide coating to the mica platelet may range from 1:10 to 5:1, preferably from 1:6 to 1:7, by weight.
- the preferred compositions will generally be substantially free of titanium dioxide outside of that required for coating mica.
- suitable iron oxide and titanium dioxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industires, Inc. These include Timiron® MP-28 (particle size range 27,000 - 37,000 nm) , Timiron® MP-29 (particle size range 47,000 - 55,000 nm) , and Timiron® MP-24 (particle size range 56,000 - 70,000 nm) . Most prefered is Timiron® MP-24.
- suitable iron oxide coated mica platelets are materials available from EM Industires, Inc. These include
- Suitable coatings for mica other than titanium dioxide and iron oxide may also achieve the appropriate optical properties required for the present invention. These types of coated micas must also meet the refractive index of at least 1.8. Other coatings include silica on the mica platelets.
- active agents other than conditioning agents such as emollients or moisturizers defined above may be added to the cleansing composition in a safe and ef ective amount during formulation to treat the skin during the use of the product.
- active ingredients may be advantageously selected from antimicrobial and antifungal actives, vitamins, anti-acne actives; anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives; skin barrier repair actives; non- steroidal cosmetic soothing actives; artificial tanning agents and accelerators; skin lightening actives; sunscreen actives; sebum stimulators; sebum inhibitors; anti-oxidants; protease inhibitors; skin tightening agents; anti-itch ingredients; hair growth inhibitors; 5-alpha reductase inhibitors; desquamating enzyme enhancers; anti-glycation agents; topical anesthetics, or mixtures thereof; and the like.
- active agents may be selected from water-soluble active agents, oil soluble active agents, pharmaceutically- acceptable salts and mixtures thereof.
- the agents will be soluble or dispersible in the cleansing composition.
- active agent means personal care actives which can be used to deliver a benefit to the skin and/or hair and which generally are not used to confer a conditioning benefit, as is conferred by humectants and emollients previously described herein.
- safe and effective amount as used herein, means an amount of active agent high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to deliver the desired skin care benefit, but low enough to avoid serious side effects.
- fit as used herein, means the therapeutic, prophylactic, and/or chronic benefits associated with treating a particular condition with one or more of the active agents described herein.
- composition of the present invention comprise from 0.01 % to 50 %, more preferably from 0.05 % to 25 %, even more preferably 0.1 % to 10 %, and most preferably 0.1 % to 5 %, by weight of the active agent component.
- Anti-acne actives can be effective in treating acne vulgaris, a chronic disorder of the pilosebaceous follicles.
- useful anti-acne actives include the keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid) , derivatives of salicylic acid such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid and 4 methoxysalicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, mixtures thereof and the like.
- Anti-microbial and anti-fungal actives can be effective to prevent the proliferation and growth of bacteria and fungi .
- Non-limiting examples of anti-microbial and anti-fungal actives include b-lactam drugs , quinolone drugs , ciprof loxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2 , 4 , 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxy diphenyl ether,
- Anti-wrinkle, anti-skin atrophy and skin repair actives can be effective in repleni shing or rejuvenating the epidermal layer . These actives generally provide these desirable skin care benefits by promoting or maintaining the natural process of desquamation .
- Non-limiting examples of anti- wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives include vitamins , minerals, and skin nutrients such as milk, vitamins A, E, and K; vitamin alkyl esters , including vitamin C alkyl esters ; magnesium, calcium, copper, zinc and other metallic components ; retinoic acid and its derivatives (e . g .
- vitamin B 3 compounds such as niacinamide and nicotinic acid
- alpha hydroxy acids beta hydroxy acids
- e . g . salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, heptyloxy 4 salicylic acid, and 4-methoxy salicylic acid
- Skin barrier repair actives are those skin care actives which can help repair and replenish the natural moisture barrier function of the epidermis .
- Non-limiting examples of skin barrier repair actives include lipids such as cholesterol, ceramides, sucrose esters and pseudo-ceramides as described in European Patent Specification No. 556,957; ascorbic acid; biotin; biotin esters; phospholipids, mixtures thereof, and the like.
- Non-steroidal cosmetic . soothing actives can be effective in preventing or treating inflammation of the skin.
- the soothing active enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, e.g., such agents contribute to a more uniform and acceptable skin tone or color.
- Non-limiting examples of cosmetic soothing agents include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid derivatives; fenamic acid derivatives; mixtures thereof and the like. Many of these cosmetic soothing actives are described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al . , issued Jan. 15, 1991, incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.
- Artificial tanning actives can help in simulating a natural suntan by increasing melanin in the skin or by producing the appearance of increased melanin in the skin.
- artificial tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetaone; tyxosine; tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and glucose tyrosinate; mixtures thereof, and the like.
- Skin lightening actives can actually decrease the amount of melanin in the skin or provide such an effect by other mechanisms.
- Non-limiting examples of skin lightening actives useful herein include aloe extract, alpha-glyceryl- L-ascorbic acid, aminotyroxine, ammonium lactate, glycolic acid, hydroquinone, 4 hydroxyanisole, mixtures thereof, and the like.
- sunscreen actives are also useful herein.
- a wide variety of sunscreen agents are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued Feb. 11, 1992; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al . , issued Dec. 17, 1991; U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued Dec. 17, 1991; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq. , of Cosmetics Science and Technology, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
- Non- limiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) , 2-ethylhexyl p- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p- aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, oxybenzone, mixtures thereof, and the like.
- sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the present invention are those selected from octyl methoxyl cinnamate (Parsol MCX) and butyl methoxy benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) , 2-ethylhexyl p- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-
- Sebum stimulators can increase the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands.
- sebum stimulating actives include bryonolic acid, dehydroetiandrosterone (DHEA) , orizanol, mixtures thereof, and the like.
- Sebum inhibitors can decrease the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands.
- useful sebum inhibiting actives include aluminum hydroxy chloride, corticosteroids, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, dichlorophenyl imidazoldioxolan ( available from Elubiol ) , mixtures thereof , and the like .
- protease inhibitors can be divided into two general classes : the proteinases and the peptidases . Proteinases act on specific interior peptide bonds of proteins and peptidases act on peptide bonds adj acent to a free amino or carboxyl group on the end of a protein and thus cleave the protein from the outside .
- protease inhibitors suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, proteinases such as serine proteases, metalloproteases , cysteine proteases , and aspartyl protease, and peptidases , such as carboxypepidases , dipeptidases and aminopepidases , mixture s thereof and the like .
- skin tightening agents Other useful as active ingredients in the present invention are skin tightening agents .
- skin tightening agents which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include monomers which can bind a polymer to the skin such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone , (meth) acrylic acid and a hydrophobic monomer comprised of long chain alkyl (meth) acrylates , mixtuxes thereof , and the like .
- Active ingredients in the present invention may also include anti-itch ingredients.
- Suitable examples of anti-itch ingredients which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include hydrocortisone , methdilizine and trimeprazineare, mixtures thereof, and the like.
- Non-limiting examples of hair growth inhibitors which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include 17 beta estradiol , anti-angiogenic steroids , cuxcuma extract ,, cycloxygenase inhibitors , evening primxose oil , linoleic acid and the li ke .
- Suitable 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as ethynylestradiol and, genist ine mixtures thereof r and the like .
- Non-limiting examples of desquamating enzyme enhancers which are useful in the compositions of the present invention include alanine , aspartic acid, N methyl serine , serine , trimeth;yl glycine , mixtures thereof , and the li ke .
- an anti-glycation agent which i s useful in the compositions of the present invention would be Amadorine (available from Barnet Products Distributor ) , and the like .
- inventive cleansing compositions examples of the inventive cleansing compositions (examples 1 - 7 below) were prepared, and their stability and visual effect on skin and tile substrates after rinse off were compared to non-inventive compositions (examples 8 - 11 below) .
- the inventive compositions were found to provide a significant change in skin and tile appearance compared to the comparative examples.
- Viscosity is adjusted by adding salt (s) such as ammonium chloride or sulfate or sodium chloride to increase viscosity and propylene glycol to decrease viscosity as the case may be.
- salt such as ammonium chloride or sulfate or sodium chloride
- 22a Evaluated for stability only at room temperature, and only by visual inspection (not viscosity) and were stable.
- Yes/No see criteria in method discussion below.
- Timiron submix (Timiron + 2 % water)
- Timiron/water premix (Timiron + 2 % water)
- Timiron/water premix (Timiron + 2 % water) Under 45°C add Glydant At 40°C, add fragrance Adjust pH to 5.5 Adjust viscosity to 10,000 cps Add polyethylene particles
- Timiron/water submix (Timiron + 2 % water)
- inventive cleansing compositions (examples la - 5a below) were prepared and their stability and visual effect on skin and tile substrates after rinse off were compared to non-inventive compositions (examples 6a - 7a below) .
- the inventive compositions were found to provide a significant change in skin and tile appearance compared to the comparative examples. Examples la - 7a
- Samples are stored at the following conditions and evaluated at the following time points.
- Viscosity Measured by the method indicated for each example
- a sample is considered stable if its viscosity and visual evaluation do not change significantly (i.e. greater than 20 % relative) from the initial measurements at all conditions.
- Hand wash (Consumer evaluation) method Give the product to naive consumers to use according to the following instructions: "Use similar to your regular body wash, applying to wet skin, sponge, washcloth, or pouf . Work into a lather and rinse.” Ask consumers if they saw any change in the appearance of their skin, e.g. whether their skin looked radiant, shimmery, lustrous, glowing, etc. Naive consumers are defined as consumers that have not been trained in any way - in the use of the product or in what to look for on the skin.
- Tile/lab evaluation method is a combination of the Tile evaluation method and the lab evaulation method .
- In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol Porcine/pig skin assay
- the initial and final color measurements of porcine or in- vivo human skin are made with a Hunter Lab spectracolormeter using a 0° light source and 45° detector geometry.
- the spectracolormeter is calibrated with the appropriate black and white standards. Measurements are made before and after the wash treatment. Three measurements are made each time and averaged. The values obtained are L, a*, b*, which come from the La*b* color space representation.
- the opacity of the skin treated by the cleansing composition can be derived from the hunter Lab color measurements.
- the opacity contrast value is calculated from the delta L (which is the change in whiteness after deposition) divided by 60 (which is the difference in L value of the skin and a pure white color) .
- the initial and final reflectance/radiance measurement of porcine or in-vivo human skin is made with a glossmeter before and after treatment with the cleansing composition.
- the glossmeter is first set with both the detector and light source at 85° from normal. Then the glossmeter is calibrated with an appropriate reflection standard. Measurements are made before and after application and rinsing off of the cleansing composition and the percent difference calculated.
- a noticeable change in the skin when treated with the inventive composition may provide only scattered areas of skin appearance enhancement (such as point sparkle, glitter, etc.) instead of a continuous change over a wider expanse of the skin better suited to instrumental analysis using the glossmeter etc; for the purposes of defining the level of skin appearance change required to be shown for the inventive composition, a "yes" result in either the Tile method, the Consumer method, the Hand wash (lab) method, or any combination thereof is to be considered equivalent to at least a 5 % change in reflectivity when the inventive cleansing composition is applied to skin and then rinsed off using the In-vitro Visual Assessment Protocol.
- Glitter count is a useful indicator regarding deposition but must be supplemented with other visual appearance methods to establish whether a sufficient change in visual appearance exists .
- This method covers the measurement of the viscosity of the isotropic phase cleansing; composition.
- This method covers the measurement of the viscosity of the ordered liquid crystalline cleansing composition .
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (4)
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CA2561501A CA2561501C (en) | 2004-03-31 | 2005-03-23 | Liquid cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers |
JP2007505476A JP2007530621A (en) | 2004-03-31 | 2005-03-23 | Liquid cleaning composition containing particulate photo-modifying substance |
BRPI0508763-5A BRPI0508763A (en) | 2004-03-31 | 2005-03-23 | liquid cleaning composition and method of deposition of an optical modifier |
CN2005800171470A CN1960702B (en) | 2004-03-31 | 2005-03-23 | Liquid state cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers |
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US10/814,880 | 2004-03-31 | ||
US10/814,064 | 2004-03-31 | ||
US10/814,880 US7202199B2 (en) | 2004-03-31 | 2004-03-31 | Isotropic cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers |
US10/814,064 US6906015B1 (en) | 2004-03-31 | 2004-03-31 | Ordered liquid crystalline cleansing composition with particulate optical modifiers |
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WO2005094781A1 true WO2005094781A1 (en) | 2005-10-13 |
WO2005094781A8 WO2005094781A8 (en) | 2005-12-15 |
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KR (1) | KR20070001210A (en) |
AR (1) | AR048357A1 (en) |
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CA (1) | CA2561501C (en) |
MY (1) | MY141046A (en) |
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Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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WO2011057909A1 (en) * | 2009-11-13 | 2011-05-19 | Unilever Plc | Liquid personal cleansing composition |
CZ305528B6 (en) * | 2013-10-18 | 2015-11-18 | Ústav Fyzikální Chemie J. Heyrovského Akademie Věd České Republiky, V. V. I. | Cleaning mixture for removing hydrophobic protective coatings based on organosilicon polymers |
US9833396B2 (en) | 2007-11-16 | 2017-12-05 | Innospec Limited | Personal care composition |
US9993397B2 (en) | 2010-11-23 | 2018-06-12 | Conopco Inc. | Composite particles and compositions with composite particles |
Families Citing this family (1)
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CN107405292B (en) * | 2015-03-24 | 2021-07-13 | 宝洁公司 | Foam compositions, aerosol products and methods of using the same for improving skin sensory benefits |
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JP2001335442A (en) * | 2000-05-30 | 2001-12-04 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Detergent composition |
JP2004107319A (en) * | 2002-07-22 | 2004-04-08 | Kao Corp | Skin cleansing composition |
-
2005
- 2005-03-23 WO PCT/EP2005/003243 patent/WO2005094781A1/en active Application Filing
- 2005-03-23 BR BRPI0508763-5A patent/BRPI0508763A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2005-03-23 KR KR1020067020452A patent/KR20070001210A/en not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2005-03-23 CA CA2561501A patent/CA2561501C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2005-03-23 JP JP2007505476A patent/JP2007530621A/en active Pending
- 2005-03-29 MY MYPI20051374A patent/MY141046A/en unknown
- 2005-03-31 AR ARP050101265A patent/AR048357A1/en active IP Right Grant
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Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US9833396B2 (en) | 2007-11-16 | 2017-12-05 | Innospec Limited | Personal care composition |
US10265257B2 (en) | 2007-11-16 | 2019-04-23 | Innospec Limited | Personal care composition |
WO2011057909A1 (en) * | 2009-11-13 | 2011-05-19 | Unilever Plc | Liquid personal cleansing composition |
US8017566B2 (en) | 2009-11-13 | 2011-09-13 | Conopco, Inc. | Liquid personal cleansing composition |
EA025565B1 (en) * | 2009-11-13 | 2017-01-30 | Унилевер Н.В. | Liquid personal cleansing composition |
US9993397B2 (en) | 2010-11-23 | 2018-06-12 | Conopco Inc. | Composite particles and compositions with composite particles |
CZ305528B6 (en) * | 2013-10-18 | 2015-11-18 | Ústav Fyzikální Chemie J. Heyrovského Akademie Věd České Republiky, V. V. I. | Cleaning mixture for removing hydrophobic protective coatings based on organosilicon polymers |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
AR048357A1 (en) | 2006-04-19 |
MY141046A (en) | 2010-02-25 |
CA2561501A1 (en) | 2005-10-13 |
KR20070001210A (en) | 2007-01-03 |
JP2007530621A (en) | 2007-11-01 |
BRPI0508763A (en) | 2007-08-28 |
WO2005094781A8 (en) | 2005-12-15 |
CA2561501C (en) | 2013-05-28 |
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