WO2004093583A1

WO2004093583A1 - Clothes

Info

Publication number: WO2004093583A1
Application number: PCT/JP2004/005591
Authority: WO
Inventors: Takamitsu Taniguchi; Shingo Matsumoto; Masuji Kojima; Hirokuni Ogoshi
Original assignee: Toray Industries, Inc.; Toray International, Inc.
Priority date: 2003-04-22
Filing date: 2004-04-20
Publication date: 2004-11-04
Also published as: TW200505371A

Abstract

Clothes to which stitches are applied and having less number of seam wrinkles, characterized in that the body and sleeves thereof are joined to each other through plain seams and stitches and the sleeve-caps of the sleeve fabric of the sleeves are formed in a continuous projected shape. The underarm portions of arm hole parts in the fabric of a front body or a rear body has an angle of 130 to 140° relative to the vertical direction of the base of the fabric of the front body or the rear body. The clothes are characterized in that the end of the fabric of either of the front body and the rear body stacked on the front side of the underarm portion of the clothes is substantially formed in a straight line ranging from the underarm portion to the side bottom portion of the clothes.

Description

Specification

Clothing Technology

The present invention relates to a garment in which a body and a sleeve are joined by a ground stitch and a stitch seam, and a garment in which a stitch seam is applied to a side portion where a front body and a back body are sewn. Background art

Conventionally, many clothes provided with stitched seams along the armholes have been provided. However, these garments have a drawback that the seam is apt to be generated around the stitch seam and the appearance is deteriorated.

Attention is focused on Sodegayama first. As shown in Fig. 2, the conventional shape of the sleeve 20 of the sleeve 20 of the conventional clothing is such that the central part of the sleeve 21 is convex, while the both ends of the sleeve 21 are under the armpits. The shape in the vicinity of both ends applied to was concave.

The following phenomenon occurs when the fabric of the sleeve as shown in Fig. 2 is sewn to the armhole of the body and stitched along the armhole.

It is assumed that the stitch is configured as shown in FIG. In the fabric as shown in Fig. 2, at the convex portion at the center of the sleeve 21, the length of the fabric edge folded inside the sleeve is sufficient compared to the length of the portion where the fabric edge overlaps. It has a length and is not a big problem. However, at both ends of the sleeve crest, that is, at the armpits, the length of the fabric edge folded inside the sleeve is shorter than the length of the portion where the fabric edge is returned. As a result, the folded fabric edge is pulled in the direction of 30 shown in FIG. 3, so that a seam seam easily occurs around the seam along the armhole.

Next, with respect to the same problem, a description will be given of a conventional technique of an armhole portion of a body. As shown in Fig. 10, in conventional clothing, the angle between the tangent 1 1 1 at the armpit portion of the body at the armpit 1 105 a and the direction 1 1 0 of the cloth ground 1 1 2 Generally had an angle of about 100 ° to 120 °. When stitch seams are applied along such an armhole, the thread of the fabric around the armhole is straightened. Depending on the location of the armhole, the tissue can be more or less mobile. When the stitch seam is applied in such a state, the fabric is sewn in a state in which the orthogonal structure of the yarn is shifted, which causes an oblique seam of the seam. Also, when applying stitch seams to the armholes of the body of conventional clothing as shown in Fig. 10, when the stitch seam of the sleeve is cut as shown in Fig. 18, The fabric edge of the armhole that is turned outward (toward the body fabric side), that is, the seam allowance is pulled by the difference in the length of the inner and outer peripheries of the curve, and between the armhole stitch 140a and the ground stitch line 141a. This was the cause of the shear.

Furthermore, as shown in Fig. 18, the length of the ground stitching line 141a of the armhole and the length of the ground stitching line 141b of the sleeve, which are sewn in the ground stitching process of the sleeve, are the same. However, due to the difference in curvature between the armhole and the curve of the sleeve, the difference in the length of the inner and outer circumferences of both curves is different. Then, the stitch line 140b at the sleeve is shorter than the stitch line 140a at the armhole. When stitching was performed in the vicinity of the armhole, the seam allowance of the sleeve was pulled, causing a gap between the armhole stitching line 140a and the ground stitching line 141a.

Furthermore, in conventional clothes, as shown in Fig. 19, ground stitches between the armholes 103 and the sleeves 121 with different seam allowance widths are provided on the ends of the respective fabrics, as shown in Fig. 19. It was extremely difficult to sew on the basis of this. Because the armhole section 103 that is difficult to stretch in the evening direction of the cloth ground and the sleeve mountain 1 2 1 that is easy to stretch in the bias direction are stitched together, if the matching mark is not correctly aligned, the sleeve mountain 1 2 1 will stretch naturally In this state, the armhole portion 103 is sewn together, so that the seam allowance of the sleeve mountain is pulled, causing a line 104 to be stitched to the armhole portion of the body to be seamed.

Next, a conventional technique for the body will be described. The size of the clothing is similar to the size of the human body wearing it, and the size of the chest and hem is larger than the size of the waist. In other words, when the clothes are spread comfortably on a flat surface, the front and rear bodies can be formed so that the sides of the clothes are curved inward around the waist. Normal. Paying attention to the front body, as shown in Fig. 24, the side part 205 is composed of a curved line inward. The following problems occur when the side portions of such clothes are stitched together with two or more seams. For example, in the case of a seam as shown in FIG. 25, the raw edge folded inward is shorter than the length of the portion where the fabric edge overlaps. As a result, a drawback arises in that seam seams are likely to be generated on the front side of the side portion in a form in which the folded fabric edge is pulled in the direction of 230.

Also, if the side of the garment, which is composed of curves curved inward around the waist, is sewn together with two or more seams, the direction of the seams around the armpits and hem will be It becomes a bias direction with respect to the direction. As a result, the side structure is sewn. The orthogonal structure of the woven yarn of the fabric between two or more seams is deformed, and there is a disadvantage that an oblique shear is easily generated between the two or more seams.

The following methods have been proposed to improve the above-mentioned problems caused by the shape of the sleeve, the shape of the armhole, and the shape of the side part. In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. H11-2000127 (pages 1 and 2), a tape member to be heat-sealed with an iron or a press is interposed at a portion where the fabric is folded, and the sheet is sewn with a press. It discloses a method of crushing and fixing.

In this way, the seam generated at the seam can be crushed and hidden. However, there was a problem that the texture became firm and the seams became crushed and the appearance was poor. In addition, it does not fundamentally improve the seam seam, and there remains a deviation in the orthogonal structure of the yarns of the fabric, and there is a problem that the appearance is poor particularly in the case of a check pattern or a border pattern.

An object of the first invention and the second invention of the present invention described below is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the conventional technology, and to provide a stitched seam around a seam of a garment along an armhole. An object of the present invention is to provide clothing that has a small seam that tends to occur.

Further, an object of a third invention of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and a seam at a side portion where a front body and a rear body are joined by two or more seams is provided. To provide less clothing. Disclosure of the invention The present invention discloses the following inventions.

As the first invention,

A garment having a body and a sleeve, wherein the body and the sleeve are joined by ground stitching and stitch stitching, and wherein a sleeve crest of a sleeve fabric in the sleeve has a continuous convex shape. As a second invention,

A garment having a front body, a back body, and a sleeve, wherein the front body and the sleeve and the back body and the sleeve are joined by ground stitching and stitch seam, and an armhole in the fabric of the front body or the back body. The underarm part of the part has an angle of 130 to 140 ° with respect to the vertical direction of the ground of the fabric.

As a third invention,

A garment having at least a front body and a back body, wherein the waist dimension is configured to be smaller than the chest circumference or the hem circumference, and two side portions for sewing the front body and the back body together. Clothes having the above seams, wherein the edge of the fabric of one of the bodies folded on the front side of the side portions of the clothes is substantially straight from the armpit to the armpit. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The attached drawings explain the following contents.

FIG. 1 is an explanatory view showing one embodiment of the sleeve fabric of the clothes of the first invention.

FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing one embodiment of a conventional sleeve fabric of clothing according to the first invention.

FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing one mode of a seam for joining a body and a sleeve in the first invention.

FIG. 4 is an explanatory view showing one mode of a seam for joining a body and a sleeve in the first invention.

FIG. 5 is an explanatory view showing one mode of a seam for joining a body and a sleeve in the first invention.

FIG. 6 is an explanatory view showing one mode of a seam for joining a body and a sleeve in the first invention.

FIG. 7 is an explanatory view showing one aspect of the front body of the clothes of the first invention. Figure 8: A part of the combination of the sleeve and the armhole in the manufacture of the garment of the first invention.

FIG. 9: Explanatory drawing showing one aspect of the front body of the clothes of the second invention.

FIG. 10 is an explanatory view showing one mode of the front body of the conventional clothing in the second invention. FIG. 11 is an explanatory view showing one form of a seam for joining a body and a sleeve in the second invention.

FIG. 12 is an explanatory view showing one form of a seam for joining the body and the sleeve in the second invention.

FIG. 13 is an explanatory view showing one form of a seam for joining a body and a sleeve in the second invention.

FIG. 14 is an explanatory view showing one form of a seam for joining the body and the sleeve in the second invention.

FIG. 15 is an explanatory view showing one embodiment of a sleeve fabric of clothing according to the second invention.

FIG. 16 is an explanatory view showing one mode of the front body of the garment of the second invention.

Fig. 17 A part of the combination of the armhole and the sleeve in manufacturing the garment of the second invention.

Figure 18: Part of the body and part of the sleeve around the armhole of conventional clothing.

Figure 19: A part of the combination of the armhole and the sleeve when manufacturing conventional garments

Figure 20: Part of the body and part of the sleeve around the armhole of the garment of the second invention.

Fig. 2 1 The underarm portion of the sleeve fabric, which is a preferred embodiment of the garment of the second invention.

Fig. 2 2 The underarm part after the body and sleeves of the garment of the second invention have been stitched together with the seams of Fig. 13.

FIG. 23 is an explanatory view showing one aspect of the front body of the clothes of the third invention.

FIG. 24 is an explanatory view showing one mode of the front body of the conventional clothing in the third invention.

FIG. 25 is an explanatory view showing one aspect of the side seam of the clothes of the third invention.

FIG. 26 is an explanatory view showing one mode of the side seam of the clothes of the third invention. FIG. 27: Explanatory drawing showing one embodiment of the side seam of the garment of the third invention. FIG. 28: Explanatory drawing showing one embodiment of the side seam of the garment of the third invention. The meanings of the symbols shown in each figure are as follows.

1 front body

Back body

Armhole of body

Line to be sewn with the sleeve of the armhole of the body a

b Armpit lower side point

Small hole

Matching seal

Notch type seal

0 Sleeve fabric

1 Sodeyama

3 Line to be sewn to the armhole of the sleeve

5 Direction of height of sleeve mountain

7 In the armhole area: Direction along

0 Direction of pulling the fabric edge

0 Stitch sewing

1 plain sewing

01 front body

02 Back body

03 Body armhole part

03a Armhole of body-armpit part

03b Upper part of body armhole

03c The part where the underarm part of the armhole of the body and the upper part join together 04 The line where the armhole of the body is sewn to the sleeve sleeve 05 The armpit

05a armpit f 109 Cut-type mating mark

110 Vertical direction of fabric

111 Tangent at armpit

112 The angle between the straight line in the evening direction of the cloth and the tangent to the armpit

120 sleeves

121 Sodeyama

122 under sleeve

123 Line to be sewn to the armhole part of the sleeve

124 Direction along the armhole

125 Height of the sleeve mountain

126 Lower armpit at Sodegayama

128 Armpit protrusion on sleeve

140 stitch sewing

140a Stitch line at armhole

140b Stitch seam on sleeve

141 Ground sewing

141a Sewing line at armhole

141b Ground stitch on sleeve

201 Front

202 Back

205 armpits

205a armpit

205b side hem

230 Direction of pulling the fabric edge

231 Clothes vertical direction

232 Angle between the straight part of the side and the vertical line of the clothes

240 stitch sewing 241 Best mode for carrying out the invention

First, the meaning of the terms in the present invention will be described below.

The body is a clothing part of a concept including a front body and a back body.

The armhole portion is a portion existing in the body cloth, and is an end of the cloth existing near where the body cloth of the clothes is sewn to the sleeve cloth.

The underarm point of the armhole is located in the armhole and becomes the underarm when it is put on clothes, and is the point of 105a in FIG. The lower part of the armhole is a peripheral part that exists in the armhole and includes the lower part. As shown in Figure 9

10 3 a.

The sleeve cap is a portion existing in the sleeve cloth, and is an end of the cloth present near the place where the sleeve cloth of the clothes is sewn to the vicinity of the armhole.

The underarm portion of the sleeve mountain is located at the sleeve mountain and becomes the armpit when it is made into clothes. In FIG. 1, it is the both ends of the sleeve mountain 21, that is, around the armpit point 5 a.

In the garment of the first invention, it is important that the sleeve crest of the sleeve material in the sleeve has a continuous convex shape. By taking such a configuration. It is possible to reduce the size of the seam around the stitch seam provided along the armhole of the body.

More specifically, since the length of the folded-back fabric end of the sleeve fabric is longer than the length of the folded-back portion of the fabric end, the fabric end is not pulled off, and as a result, the occurrence of a seam seal is generated. Can be improved.

FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram showing one embodiment of the sleeve fabric of the clothes of the first invention. FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing one form of a conventional sleeve fabric of clothes. FIG. 7 is an explanatory diagram showing a preferred embodiment of the front body of the clothes of the first invention.

The following are examples of stitch stitches provided along the armholes. Stitch sewing 40 is performed after ground sewing 41 as shown in Figs. As shown in Fig. 3, multiple stitches 40 are simultaneously applied and sewn together.

In the present invention, as shown in FIG. That is, the mountain 21 is convex at any place.

In the garment of the first invention, it is preferable that the curvature applied to the portion applied to the armpit under the sleeve, that is, the curvature of the armpit lower point 5a is larger than the curvature of the central portion of the sleevemount. By adopting such a configuration, the seam in the stitch seam provided along the armhole portion, particularly the seam in the armpit portion can be further improved.

More specifically, when compared with the front body of the first invention in FIG. 7, the shape of the armhole part 3 of the body is generally such that the vicinity of the armpit part 5b is a line in the direction of the armhole part and the armhole part. Because of the steep curve formed by the direction line, the fabric edge of the sleeve fabric that is sewn to the lower part of the armpit is closer to the edge of the fabric than the fabric edge at the center of the sleeve mountain. Becomes larger. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 1, by increasing the curvature at both ends of the sleeve 21, that is, in the vicinity of the lower arm 5 a of the sleeve, as compared with the curvature of the center of the sleeve 21, the curvature of the armpit 21 is increased. The length of the fabric edge can be given a margin. As a result, it is possible to reduce the pulling of the fabric edge and reduce the seam seam around the stitch.

It is preferable that the curvature in the range of the lower side of the sleeve mountain corresponding to the length of 1 Z 3 or less of the length of the armhole portion of each of the front body and the rear body is larger than the curvature of the central part of the sleeve mountain. Practically, it is more preferable that the ranges corresponding to the length of 1 Z4 of the armhole portion length of each of the front body and the rear body have the above relationship. The garment of the first invention is characterized in that the sleeve fabric has a small hole, and the small hole is located at a position opposite to a mating mark provided in the arm hole portion of the body in the direction of the length of the arm hole portion, and It is preferably present at a position facing the cut end of the armhole of the body. The reason will be described below. Assume that there is no mark when sewing the sleeve sleeve and the armhole of the body fabric. If both are sewn together in a state where they are displaced inward or outward, the sleeve crest and the armhole will be sewn with different lengths, which may cause a seam gap. In the first invention, as shown in FIG. 1, several small holes 7 are previously drilled in the sleeve fabric at positions corresponding to the cut ends of the armhole portion of the body, and the cut ends of the armhole portion and the small holes 7 are formed. Can be sewn together. As a result, the seam can be sewn at an appropriate position without displacement between the armhole and the sleeve crest. Can be reduced.

As a material having the function of a mark, a mark written with a writing instrument such as a chalk can be cited, but a small hole is preferable in terms of productivity and visibility.

The means for forming the small holes is not particularly limited, and a known method can be used. For example, a method of using a perforated drill of a punch type or the like at the time of lamination cutting or the like is preferably used.

Although the number of small holes is not particularly limited, it is preferable to provide at least three in one sleeve in consideration of workability of a sewing manufacturer.

Also, it is preferable that the gap between the small holes is equal to or slightly larger than the gap between the marks described later provided in the armhole portion of the fabric of the body facing the body. In particular, the part of the front body and the back body, such as the upper part of the armhole, that is clearly visible when worn, has a small hole provided in the sleeve mountain, as opposed to the gap between the mating marks provided in the armhole part. It is preferable to make a small hole so that the distance from the small hole is about 2 to 4% longer. As a result, it is preferable because the sleeves can be sewn together and the seam around the seam formed along the armhole can be reduced.

The size of the eyelet is not particularly limited, but the diameter is 0.5 mn from the viewpoint that it is easy to recognize when sewing and is not noticeable in clothes. It is preferably in the range of ~ 3.0 mm.

The garment of the first invention preferably has a notch-shaped indicia in the armhole of the body. The preferred position is a position opposed to a small hole made in the sleeve fabric at a portion to be sewn with the sleeve fabric. With this configuration, as shown in FIG. 8, it is possible to sew in a state where the small hole 7 formed in the sleeve mountain and the cut-out fitting mark 9 provided in the arm hole portion are accurately aligned. . Since the direction 27 along the armhole and the direction 25 of the height of the sleeve peak can be stitched accurately, the sleevehole 21 and the armhole 3 on the body are shifted. By stitching in an appropriate position without being in a state, the effect of reducing the occurrence of seam seam is enhanced.

Hereinafter, the clothes of the first invention will be described using examples and comparative examples. Example 1

The warp and weft yarns are made of 100% cotton and 80 yarns are used as the twin yarn.The warp density is 144 yarns / 2.54 cm and the weft yarn density is 80 yarns / 2.54 cm. , Plain weave fabric was used. The clothing design was a general dress shirt, and the sleeve fabric was shaped so that the sleeve peak 21 was continuously convex as shown in FIG. Furthermore, the shape of the sleeve was designed such that the curvature near the lower arm 5a was greater than the curvature at the center of the sleeve.

Further, a small hole 7 was formed in Sodegayama 21 at a position facing the cut end of the armholes on the front and rear bodies. Specifically, as shown in Fig. 20, five small holes were made in the armholes of the Sodesama at positions facing the cut edges. At this time, the position of the small hole was a position 1.3 cm inward from the end of the material of the sleeve mountain, and a position opposite to the mating mark provided in the arm hole portion. The dowels provided in the armholes indicate the positions where the lower part of the armhole contacts the upper part, the center position of the yoke, the center position of the yoke, and the position where the lower part contacts the upper part. did. The small holes had a diameter of 1.5 mm. The body and the sleeve were sewn together in the form shown in Fig. 5 using a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine. The seam seam on the side of the obtained dress shirt was evaluated by a method based on JIS L 905 (2000) (a method for evaluating the shimbakering of textiles).

Comparative Example 1

As shown in FIG. 2, the center of the sleeve cap 21 was made convex, and the vicinity of the armpits at both ends of the sleeve 21 was made concave. In addition, a dowel 8 was placed at the end of the fabric of Soedama at a position opposite to the dowel provided in the armhole. Otherwise, in the same manner as in Example 1, a dress shirt of Comparative Example 1 of the present invention was obtained. The same evaluation as in Example 1 was performed on the obtained dress shirt.

As a result of evaluating Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, the seam of the side seam of Comparative Example 1 was 2nd to 3rd grade, in particular, while the seam of the side seam of Example 1 was 2 to 3. Class 4 Example 1 was superior in quality. Next, the clothes of the second invention will be described. The garment of this invention can be It is important that the armpit portion of the body has an angle of 130 ° to 140 ° with respect to the evening direction of the cloth of the body.

Here, in both the front body and the back body, it is preferable that the armpit portion has an angle of 130 ° to 140 ° with respect to the evening direction of the cloth. This is a better mode.

Further, it is preferable that the vicinity of the underarm portion of the front body or the back body having an angle of 130 to 140 ° is a straight line.

By having the configuration of the second invention, the seam seam of the armpit portion of the front body or the rear body is improved, and a good-looking garment can be obtained. The reason is that by setting the armpits under the armholes to the direction of the positive bias (135 °) of the ground of the fabric, the length of the fabric thread existing between the ground stitching line and the stitch line can be reduced. The length of the knitting yarn becomes equal, and the relationship between the direction in which the fabric is easy to move along the armhole portion of the fabric around the armpit portion and the direction in which it is not easy is equal between the two. As a result, it is possible to prevent a deviation of the orthogonal structure of the weaving yarn of the fabric, thereby preventing the occurrence of an oblique shear. In addition, by forming the armpit portion with a straight line, even if the seam allowance at the armhole is folded back to the outside of the curve (body side), the seam allowance can be prevented from being pulled and the occurrence of seams can be prevented. It will be.

In the garment according to the second aspect of the present invention, it is preferable that the armholes other than the armpit portion include a straight line, and that a notch type seal is provided at a position between the straight lines constituting the armhole portion. . By doing so, even if the seam allowance at the armhole is turned back to the outside of the curve (body side), the seam allowance will not be pulled in the straight part. Further, by opening the notch-shaped cross marks provided between the straight lines, the seam allowance is reduced when the seam allowance of the armhole portion is turned back. As a result, the seam seam in the armhole can be reduced.

Also in the second invention, in this garment, the sleeve fabric has a small hole, and the small hole is a portion to be sewn to an armhole portion of the front body, the back body, or the entire body, and It is preferably present at a position opposite to the notch-shaped indicia provided on the armhole portion of the cloth. By doing so, the stitch seam around the stitch seam provided along the armhole is improved without variation. Can be

Further, the clothes of the second invention will be described. The garment of the second invention is a garment having a front body, a back body, and a sleeve, wherein the front body and the sleeve, and the back body and the sleeve are joined by ground and stitch seams. The armpit of the front or back fabric has an angle of 130 ° to 140 ° with respect to the vertical direction of the fabric of the front or back fabric. FIG. 9 shows an aspect of the front body of the garment of the present invention. FIG. 10 is an explanatory diagram showing one form of a conventional front body of clothes.

In FIG. 9 and FIG. 10, the angle formed by the armpit portion of the dough on the front body or back body with respect to the evening direction of the dough ground is defined by the vertical direction 110 of the dough ground and the armhole part. The angle 1 1 2 formed by the tangent 1 1 1 at the underarm point.

As shown in FIG. 10, the armhole portion of the conventional garment is a fabric end portion 103 where the body fabric of the garment is sewn to the sleeve fabric. On the other hand, FIG. 9 showing a preferred embodiment of the second invention is a portion including an upper portion 103b of the armhole portion and a lower portion 103a of the armhole portion.

The following is an example of a method of stitching the body and the sleeve fabric along the armhole. Stitches 140 are applied after ground stitching 141 as shown in Fig. 12 to Fig. 14 and stitching is performed by simultaneously applying multiple stitching stitches as shown in Fig. 11 .

If the size of the armpit portion in the garment of the second invention is to be determined, the length of the armhole portion of the body is preferably 1 Z6 or less. Practically, the lower part of the armhole is preferably straight at 5 to 8 cm, and preferably has an angle of 130 to 140 ° with respect to the vertical direction of the cloth.

In the clothes according to the second invention, it is preferable that the armhole portion other than the armpit portion of the front body or the back body includes a straight line. Here, the armhole portion other than the armpit portion (hereinafter referred to as “armhole portion upper portion”) is a portion obtained by removing the armhole portion armpit portion from the entire armhole portion. Means.

In the present invention, the upper part of the armholes of the front body and the back body includes a straight line. This is a preferred embodiment.

By straightening at least a part of the upper portion of the armhole portion of the front body or the rear body, the seam seam at the upper portion of the armhole portion of the front body or the rear body is improved, and it is possible to obtain good-looking clothes.

Referring to the front body 101 in FIG. 9, the folded fabric end of the upper armhole 103 of the front body 101 and the portion where the fabric edge overlaps have the same length. Can be improved. About 4 to 9 straight lines are sufficient for the entire armhole. In practice, the front body 101 and the back body 102 shown in Fig. 20 are combined, and it is good to configure about six straight lines like the armhole part 103 of the body that it is composed of. . It is also a preferred aspect of the present invention that the straight portion above the armhole is parallel to the direction of the cloth on the fabric. By doing so, the armhole stitches after the sleeved ground stitch become parallel to the vertical direction of the fabric, and as a result, the orthogonal structure of the fabric yarn is less likely to be deformed. It is possible to reduce the diagonal gap between the arm hole portion and the stitch.

In the garment of the present invention, it is preferable that a notch-shaped indentation 109 is provided on the armhole portion, and the position is a position where a straight line constituting the armhole portion intersects the straight line as shown in FIG. Is preferred. By doing so, the pulling of the fabric edge that is folded back near the armhole is alleviated by opening the cut-in type notch 109, and as a result, the seam around the seam can be improved. . The cut-off type stamp may be simply a cut at the edge of the fabric, but if the edge of the fabric is cut into a V-shape or if the edge is cut into a U-shape, the operator will use It is preferable because it is easy to recognize. As for the position of the notch-type indicia, a certain effect can be obtained if it is between the straight lines constituting the armhole, but the most effective effect is obtained by setting the angle between the straight line and the straight line. It is preferable to apply it on the bisector.

In the garment of the second invention, in particular, as shown in FIG. 9, the armpit portions 103 a and the upper portion 103 c of the armhole portion of the front body or the back body (the front body is shown in FIG. 9). When the curvature of the part at the point where the c The edges of the dough are easily pulled. Therefore, it is preferable to cut and sew the clothes as deeply as possible without being visible from the front side of the clothes.

Like the first invention, in the clothes of the second invention as well, it is preferable that the sleeve peaks 122 have a continuous convex shape as shown in FIG. Further, it is preferable that the curvature of the center of the sleeve mountain 121 is smaller than the curvature of the both ends of the sleeve mountain, that is, the periphery of the lower side 126. The reason is as explained in the first invention.

The clothing of the second invention also has a small hole 107 in the sleeve cloth as shown in FIG. 20, and the small hole 107 is provided in the arm hole portion of the portion to be sewn to the arm hole portion 103. It is preferable that a small hole is provided at a position opposed to the notch-shaped dowel 109. More specifically, as shown in FIG. 20, a ground stitch line 14 4 b where the sleeve cap is sewn to the armhole portion and a ground stitch line 14 1 a where the arm hole portion is sewn to the sleeve cap are shown. When stitching together, there is no small hole, and if both are stitched in a state where they are shifted inside or outside, they will be stitched with different lengths, which may cause seam gap. is there. However, as shown in Fig. 17, by sewing the armholes of the sleeve fabric while aligning the cut-in indentations 109 and the small holes 107, the armholes and sleeve sleeves can be sewn at an appropriate position without shifting. As a result, it is possible to improve the occurrence of seams. More specifically, it is possible to accurately recognize the direction 124 along the armhole portion and the direction 125 of the height of the sleeve crest and sew them together. As a result, it is possible to improve the occurrence of stitches It is. The method of forming the small holes, the form, and the like are preferably the same as those described in the first invention. In the garment of the second invention, as shown in FIG. 20, the underarm portion 1 2 2 of the sleeve fabric 1 20 has a substantially right angle between the sleeve mountain 1 2 1 and the sleeve underline 1 2 2. It is preferable that the shape of the intersecting force be used. By doing so, when the armhole part of the body and the fabric of the sleeve are sewn together, the side line of the body and the sleeve underline of the sleeve are connected with a smooth curve, which makes it easier to sew in the sleeve and side-to-side process.

Further, as shown in FIG. 21, it is preferable that the end of the sleeve peak 122 of the sleeve 120, preferably both ends, that is, both lower side portions have a convex shape 128. By doing so, it becomes a sign of the beginning of sewing when sewing the body and the sleeve, and After that, as shown in FIG. 22, the shape of the side line 122 can be matched. Hereinafter, the clothes of the second invention will be described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. Example 2

As the material, the warp density is 1

A plain woven fabric having 46 threads 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 threads Z 2.54 cm was used. The clothing design was a general dress shirt. Around the armpits of the front and rear armholes, the armhole is cut so that the length of the armhole 1Z10 is a straight line of 135 ° to the vertical direction of the cloth. did. Also, the front and rear armholes were cut so that the tops of the armholes were straight. In addition, cuts were made at the edges of the fabric where the upper armpits of the front and rear body contact the lower armpits and the upper part, so that they could not be seen from the front of the clothes. The stitches in the armholes were sewn together using a single-needle lockstitch sewing machine as shown in Fig.13.

The seam seam of the armhole part of the obtained dress shirt is set to JISL190

5 (Evaluation method of seam puckering of textile products)

Comparative Example 2

As with conventional clothing, the armpits at the front and back were cut at an angle of 110 ° to the evening direction on the ground. Also, the front and rear armholes were cut so that the tops of the armholes were straight. For the other parts, Comparative Example 2 of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2. The same evaluation as in Example 2 was performed on the obtained dress shoe.

As a result of evaluating the example and the comparative example, the stitch seam around the stitch seam along the arm hole portion of the comparative example 2 is 2nd to 3rd class, whereas that of the example 2 is 4th class. The example was superior in quality. Next, the garment of the third invention focusing on the side shape of the front body or the back body will be described. This garment is a garment having at least a front body and a back body, wherein the waist size is configured to be smaller than the breast size or the hem size, and the side where the front body and the back body are sewn. Part has two or more seams, and the edge of the fabric of either body folded on the front side of the side of the garment, It is substantially straight across the side hem.

FIG. 23 is an explanatory diagram showing one mode of the front body of the garment of the present invention. FIG. 24 is an explanatory view showing one form of the front body of conventional clothing, and is intended for clothing in which the size of the waist is smaller than the size of the circumference of the chest or the size of the hem.

In the present invention, the dimension around the chest is a dimension around the horizontal garment in the garment, with the underside point 205a of the front body 201 shown in FIG. 23 as a passing point. The dimension around the hem is the dimension around the horizontal garment in the garment, with the side hem point 205b of the front body 201 passing through. Furthermore, the waist size is the dimension around the horizontal garment passing through any point between the lower arm point 205 a and the lower hem point 205 b of the front body and in the garment. Which means the shortest dimension. Further, in the present invention, as a side portion having two or more seams, for example, a stitch 240 is applied after ground sewing 241, as shown in FIGS. 1 and the back body 202 are sewn together, or a plurality of stitches 240 are simultaneously applied as shown in FIG. 25 to sew the bodies together.

When the side seam as shown in Fig. 26 to Fig. 28 is to be provided, the front body or the back body folded on the front side of the side part must be cut straight from the armpit to the hem. It is. In the case of the front body, as shown in FIG. 23, the front body 201 is cut in a straight line from the underarm 205a to the hem 205b. By doing so, the length of the folded fabric edge of the body and the length of the portion where the fabric edge overlaps are the same. As a result, it is possible to improve the shrinkage shear which occurs when the edges of the fabric are stretched.

The body folded on the front side of the side part may be the front body or the back body. In other words, a body that is straight from the armpit to the side hem is a front body if the body that becomes the front side at the armpit is the front body. In addition, if the body that becomes the front side in the side part is the back body, the body that is cut straight in the side is the back body.

It is preferable that the angle between the side part cut in a straight line and the vertical direction of the clothes (the direction of the eyes of the ground of the cloth constituting the clothes) be in the range of +2 degrees to 12 degrees. . Focusing on the front body, the side part 205 in Fig. 23 and the vertical direction of clothing 2 31 It is preferable that the angle 2 32 formed between +2 degrees and −2 degrees. By doing so, the direction of the two or more stitches that sew the side portions is not in a large bias direction with respect to the vertical direction of the garment. As a result, the orthogonal structure of the yarn of the fabric between the two or more seams is not significantly deformed, and the diagonal shear which is likely to occur between the two or more seams can be reduced. . Usually, the relationship between the chest circumference and the hem circumference is often shorter for the hem circumference. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 1, the side portion W may be configured so that the width of the hem portion is shorter than the width of the breast portion of the body. Although the front body is described in Fig. 1, the same effect can be obtained by applying it to the back body.

Hereinafter, the clothes of the third invention will be described using examples and comparative examples. Example 3

The material used was a plain weave fabric with a warp density of 14.6 and 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 and 2.54 cm, using 80% cotton with 100% cotton as the warp and weft, using twin yarns. . The garment design was a general dress shirt. The front body was cut straight from the armpit to the hem. At this time, the straight side part was inclined at 1 degree to the vertical direction of the clothes. On the other hand, the back side was cut along the line from the underarm to the hem so that the waist dimension was larger than the chest and hem dimensions. At this time, the size around the chest was 112 cm, the size around the waist was 104 cm, and the size around the hem was 108 cm. The side seams were stitched together using a two-needle double chain stitch sewing machine in the stitch format shown in Fig. 25. For stitching, the front body was folded on the side of the side.

The seam seam at the side of the obtained dress shirt was evaluated by a method based on JIS L 195 (Method of evaluating seam puckering of textile products).

Comparative Example 3

A dress shirt of Comparative Example 3 of the present invention was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that the side portions of the front body were cut along the line from the underarm to the hem like the rear body. At this time, the side part around the armpit was 4 degrees to the vertical direction of the clothes, and the side part around the hem was 3 degrees to the vertical direction of the clothes. The same evaluation as in the example was performed on the obtained dress shirt. As a result of evaluation of Example 3 and Comparative Example 3, the side seam of Comparative Example 1 was grades 2 to 3, whereas the side seam of Example 1 was Grade 4. Example 1 was superior in quality. Industrial applicability

As described above, the garment according to the present invention can be suitably used for garments for many uses since the seam width is small and the appearance is good.

Claims

The scope of the claims

1. Clothes having a body and a sleeve, wherein the body and the sleeve are joined by ground stitching and stitch stitching, and wherein a sleeve crest of a sleeve fabric in the sleeve has a continuous convex shape.

2. The garment according to claim 1, wherein the curvature applied to the lower part of the side of the sleeve is larger than the curvature of the center of the sleeve.

3. The garment according to claim 1, wherein the sleeve fabric has a small hole, and the small hole is present at a position opposite to the cut end of the armhole portion of the body.

4. The body of the claim has a cut-off type indicia in the armhole, and the indicia is located at a position opposite to the small hole provided in the sleeve material. Clothing according to item.

5. Clothes having a front body, a back body, and a sleeve, wherein the front body and the sleeve, and the back body and the sleeve are joined by ground stitching and stitching seam, and the production of the front body or the back body The underarm portion of the armhole portion in the above item has an angle of 130 to 140 ° with respect to the evening direction of the ground of the cloth.

6. The garment according to claim 5, wherein at least a part of the upper part of the armhole portion of the cloth of the front body or the back body is a straight line.

7. The garment according to claim 5, wherein the armhole portion of the cloth of the front body or the back body has a notch-shaped mating mark.

8. The sleeve fabric, wherein the sleeve material has a small hole, and the small hole is located at a position opposite to a mating mark provided in the armhole portion of the front body or the rear body. Clothing according to clause 7.

9. The garment according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the sleeve crests of the sleeve fabric have a continuous convex shape.

10. The garment according to claim 9, wherein the curvature applied to the armpit under the sleeve is greater than the curvature at the center of the sleeve.

1 1. A garment having at least a front body and a back body, wherein the size of the waist is smaller than the size of the circumference of the chest or the circumference of the hem, and The side part to be sewn with the back body has two or more seams, and the edge of the fabric of either one of the bodies folded on the front side of the side part of the clothes is substantially straight from the armpit to the side hem Clothing.