JP4032768B2

JP4032768B2 - clothes

Info

Publication number: JP4032768B2
Application number: JP2002041307A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 卓充谷口; 博州大越; 和幸田中
Original assignee: Toray Industries Inc
Current assignee: Toray Industries Inc
Priority date: 2002-02-19
Filing date: 2002-02-19
Publication date: 2008-01-16
Anticipated expiration: 2022-02-19
Also published as: JP2003247106A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、裾にくりを有するデザインの衣服に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
従来、衣服、特に紳士ドレスシャツや婦人ブラウスといった中衣の裾の形状は、左右両脇部分がくられたデザインとなっていることが通常である。このくりは、衣服の裾を下衣の中へ収めたとき、収められた衣服の裾の生地が重なり合い、着用の違和感を防ぐものであるとか、その昔、馬にまたがった時、大きく開いた両足に衣服の裾の形状が沿うようにデザインされたものの名残であるといったようなさまざまな説があるが、紳士ドレスシャツにおいては、ほぼ全てのものがこのデザインを採用している。また、それらの縫い仕様は、三巻縫いであることが通常である。更に、従来の衣服の裾の形状は、比較的緩やかなカーブでくりを構成していることが通常である。
【０００３】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
しかしながら、従来の衣服の裾のくりの形状は、くりの深さが浅く、裾の線がバイアス方向になる部分に、ミシンの押さえ金と送り歯とによる生地送り機構に起因する上下の生地のズレやすい方向と、織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向などとの関係から、三巻縫い部分に著しい斜めのシワとなって現れやすいという問題があった。
【０００４】
本発明の目的は、上記の従来技術の問題点を解決することにあり、裾の三巻縫い部分に発生しやすい斜めのシワが非常に少ない衣服を提供することにある。
【０００５】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、上記の課題を解決するため以下の構成を採用する。
【０００７】
本発明の他の態様は、裾に三巻縫いしたくりを有する衣服であって、左右の脇縫い目が合わさるように後身頃を折り合わせた時、後見頃の左右の裾のくりのカーブが一致しないことを特徴とする衣服である。
【０００８】
本発明のまた他の態様は、裾に三巻縫いしたくりを有する衣服であって、左右の脇縫い目が合わさるように前身頃を重ね合わせた時、左右の前見頃の裾のくりのカーブが一致しないことを特徴とする衣服である。
【０００９】
本発明のさらにまた他の態様は、裾に三巻縫いしたくりを有する衣服であって、裾線にくりを有する衣服であって、くりを構成する裾線のなす角度が略９０°であり、かつ左右の脇縫い目が合わさるように後身頃を折り合わせた時、後見頃の左右の裾のくりのカーブが一致しないで、更には左右の脇縫い目が合わさるように前身頃を重ね合わせた時、左右の前見頃の裾のくりのカーブが一致しないことを特徴とする衣服である。
【００１０】
本発明のさらにまた他の態様は、裾に三巻縫いしたくりを有する衣服であって、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点から左側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線と当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度の最小値が、くりの頂点から右側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線と当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度の最小値よりも大きいことを特徴とする前記のいずれかに記載の衣服である。
【００１３】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明の衣服を図を用いて詳細に説明する。
【００１４】
本発明の衣服は、図１のように、裾線ＳにくりＡを有するデザインの衣服であって、くりＡを構成する裾線Ｓのなす角度ｔが８５゜〜９５゜の範囲内となるように構成される。そうすることで、くりＡを構成する裾線Ｓの接線ａｌまたは接線ａｒと当該衣服の前身頃Ｆまたは後身頃Ｂ生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｌまたは角度ｔｒの最小値が４５゜±５゜となり、くりを構成する裾線はほぼ正バイアスの方向なる。この状態で衣服の裾を三巻縫いした状態を図３で示す。三巻縫い部分の中で、衣服の裾の三巻縫い部分の任意の点ＳＰのズレを拘束する織糸、経糸Ｗ１および緯糸Ｘ１は、裾線Ｓに対しほぼ４５゜となり、任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿って動きやすい方向は、左右で等しくなる。すなわち、織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向がなくなり、左右の力学的なバランスがとれた安定した三巻縫い部分の構造となり、三巻縫い部分に現れやすい生地のズレによる著しい斜めのシワを軽減しやすくなる。
【００１５】
反対に、図１において、衣服のくりを構成する裾線のなす角度ｔが８５゜〜９５゜の範囲より大きい角度で外れた場合、図４に示すように、三巻縫い部分の中で、衣服の裾の三巻縫い部分の任意の点ＳＰのズレを拘束する織糸、経糸Ｗ１と裾線のなす角度ｔｗは、緯糸Ｘ１と裾線のなす角度ｔｘに対し大きくなる。任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿ってＳＤ方向まはその逆方向にズレようとした時、点ＳＰは経糸Ｗ１および緯糸Ｘ１に拘束される。任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿ってＳＤの方向へズレようとした時、そのズレを止めようとする経糸Ｗ１の拘束力は、任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿ってＳＤの逆方向へズレようとした時、そのズレを止めようとする緯糸Ｘ１の拘束力と比べ弱く、任意の点ＳＰは、裾線に沿ってＳＤ方向へズレやすくなる。すなわち、三巻縫い部分に織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向が発現し、左右の力学的なバランスが悪い不安定な三巻縫い部分の構造となり、その結果、三巻縫い部分にズレによる著しい斜めシワが発生しやすくなる。また、図１において、衣服のくりを構成する裾線のなす角度ｔが８５゜〜９５゜の範囲より小さい角度で外れた場合も同様の理由により、三巻縫い部分にズレによる著しい斜めシワが発生しやすくなる。
【００１６】
本発明の衣服の他の態様は、図２のように、左右の脇縫い目Ｈが合わさるように後身頃Ｂを折り合わせた時、後見頃の左右の裾のくりのカーブが一致しないように構成する。あるいは、左右の脇縫い目Ｈが合わさるように前身頃Ｆを重ね合わせた時、左右の前見頃の裾のくりのカーブが一致しないように構成する。
【００１７】
本発明の衣服のまた他の態様は、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから左側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｌと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｌの最小値が４５゜〜５０゜の範囲内である。あるいは、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから右側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｒと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｒの最小値が４０゜〜４５゜の範囲内となるように構成する。そうすることにより、ミシンの押さえ金と送り歯とによる生地送り機構に起因する上下の生地のズレる方向と、織物組織の構造的にズレる方向とが打ち消し合うかたちとなり、縫い代部分の斜めシワを軽減出来るものである。
【００１８】
なお、上記した本発明の衣服において、後述するように、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点から左側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線と当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度の最小値が４５゜〜５０゜の範囲内であることは好ましい態様である。あるいは、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点から右側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線と当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度の最小値が４０゜〜４５゜の範囲内であることも好ましい態様である。
【００１９】
従来はミシンで生地を縫着するとき、ミシンの押さえ金と接する生地には、下送り歯による生地送り方向とは逆方向に応力が働き、ミシン押さえ金と接する生地が縫い方向にズレて縫着される傾向にある。衣服の裾の三巻縫いも同様であり、正バイアス方向の三巻縫いでも同様の現象が起こる傾向にある。一方、上記のように、バイアス方向の三巻縫いには織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向があり、ミシンの押さえ金と送り歯とによる生地送り機構に起因する上下の生地のズレの方向と重なった場合、相乗効果で著しい斜めシワが発現する。
【００２０】
本発明の衣服は、上記した生地のズレの原因である２つの力が相殺されるように衣服の裾線の傾きを定め、三巻縫い部分に発生しやすい斜めシワを軽減させるものである。すなわち、図２において、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから左側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｌと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｌの最小値が４５゜〜５０゜の範囲内とすることで、図５のように、三巻縫い部分の任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿ってＳＤ方向にやや動きやすくなり、縫い方向ＳＲによる生地のズレやすい方向と相殺される方向となり、三巻縫い部分に発生しやすい斜めシワが軽減される。また同様に、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから右側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｒと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｒの最小値が４０゜〜４５゜の範囲内にすることで、図６のように、三巻縫い部分の任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿ってＳＤ方向にやや動きやすくなり、縫い方向ＳＲによる生地のズレ安い方向と相殺される方向となり、三巻縫い部分に発生しやすい斜めシワを軽減される。
【００２１】
反対に、図２において、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから左側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｌと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｌの最小値が４５゜〜５０゜の範囲内より大きい場合、またはくりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから右側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｒと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｒの最小値が４０゜〜４５゜の範囲内より小さい場合は、任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿って縫い方向と反対方向に動きやすくなりすぎて、三巻縫い部分に織物組織の構造的なズレやすさによる斜めシワが発生しやすくなる。また、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから左側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｌと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｌの最小値が４５゜〜５０゜の範囲内より小さい場合、またはくりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから右側の少なくとも一部の裾線の接線ａｒと当該衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線Ｗとのなす角度ｔｒの最小値が４０゜〜４５゜の範囲内より大きい場合は、任意の点ＳＰが裾線に沿って動きやすくなる方向と、ミシンの押さえ金と下送り歯とによる生地送り機構に起因する生地のズレやすい方向とが同じ方向となり、相乗効果で著しい斜めシワが発生しやすくなり、好ましくない。
【００２２】
上記したような織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向と、ミシン押さえ金と下送り歯による生地送り機構によりズレやすい方向との関係は、縫い方向、および三巻の方向により定まるものであり、上記した本発明の形態と逆方向である場合、くりを構成する裾線の好ましい角度は、くりの頂点の左右で逆の角度となる。また、織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向と、ミシン押さえ金と下送り歯による生地送り機構によりズレやすい方向との関係、および両者を相殺させて斜めシワを軽減させる本発明の態様は、衣服の裾だけでなく、衿、カフス、アームホール、袖合わせ、脇合わせ、前肩ヨーク、背ヨークなどの形状にも適用できる。
【００２３】
くりの頂点、および両端のカーブは、円弧の半径が小さいと、三巻の縫い代の引きつれによる縫い目シワが発生しやすくなるため、衣服のデザイン的な制約を考慮しながら、なるべく大きな半径の円弧を描くと良い。また、衣服のくりは、衣服を表側から見たとき、くり頂点が脇縫縫い目より右側にズレた状態となるよう設計することが好ましい。更には、脇縫目を折り、前身頃と後身頃を合わせた時、前身頃と後身頃のくりを構成する裾線が、くりの深さの半分の高さで交差するように、くりの頂点を脇縫い目より右側にズレた状態に設計することがより好ましい。そうすることにより、脇縫い目を折り、前身頃と後身頃を重ね合わせた時、前身頃と後身頃の裾ラインの不一致が目立たなくなり好ましくなる。
【００２４】
【実施例】
実施例１
素材は、経糸および緯糸に綿１００％の８０番糸を双糸使いで経糸密度１４６本／２．５４ｃｍ、緯糸密度８０本／２．５４ｃｍのドビー生地を使用し、ドレスシャツのパターンをベースに衣服設計した。裾のくりは、衣服を表側から見た時、くりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから左側の裾線と衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度が５０゜、くりの頂点から右側の裾線と衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度が４０゜となるように設計した。この時、くりの頂点を含む円弧の半径を７５ｍｍとし、くりの両側の凸円弧の半径を１１０ｍｍとした。また、くりの深さは、後身頃の中心の裾位置から１１８ｍｍとした。更に、くりの頂点は、衣服を表側から見た時、脇縫い目より右側に５ｍｍズラした状態で設計した。得られたドレスシャツパターンを基に裁断縫製し、裾は、０．３ｃｍ幅のステッチの三巻縫いで縫着した。
【００２５】
得られたドレスシャツの裾の斜めシワを、ＪＩＳＬ１９０５（繊維製品のシームパッカリング評価方法）に基づく方法で評価し、その結果を表１に記載した。また、脇縫い目を折り、前身頃と後身頃を重ね合わせた時、前身頃と後身頃の裾ラインの不一致の目立たち具合を、×：目立つ、△：やや目立つ、○：ほとんど目立たないの３つの区分で評価し、結果を表１に記載した。
【００２６】
比較例１
素材は、実施例と同じものを使用し、通常のドレスシャツのパターンをベースに作製した。裾のくりは、衣服を表側から見た時、左脇のくりを構成する裾線の内、くりの頂点Ｐから左側の裾線と衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度が６８゜、くりの頂点から右側の裾線と衣服の前身頃または後身頃生地の経地の目線とのなす角度が５６゜であった。右脇のくりの形状は、左脇のくりと左右対象であった。得られたドレスシャツの裾は、実施例と同じ０．３ｃｍ幅のステッチの三巻縫いで縫着した。得られたドレスシャツについて、実施例と同じ評価を行ない、その結果を表１に記載した。
【００２７】
【表１】

【００２８】
表１から明らかなように、実施例１の衣服は、裾三巻縫い部分の斜めシワが少なく、比較例に比べ優れる。また実施例１の衣服は、脇縫い目を折り、前身頃と後身頃を重ね合わせの時、前身頃と後身頃の裾ラインの不一致がほとんど目立たない。
【００２９】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、裾三巻縫いの斜めシワの少ない高品位の衣服が得られる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明の衣服の一態様を表す説明図
【図２】本発明の衣服の他の形態を表す説明図
【図３】本発明の衣服の裾三巻の形態を表す説明図
【図４】斜めシワが発生しやすい従来の裾三巻の形態を表す説明図
【図５】本発明の衣服の裾三巻の他の形態を表す説明図
【図６】本発明の衣服の裾三巻のさらに他の形態を表す説明図
【符号の説明】
Ａ：くり
Ｓ：すそ
Ｆ：前身頃
Ｂ：後身頃
Ｗ：衣服の経地の目線
ａｌ：くりを構成する裾線の接線
ａｒ：くりを構成する裾線の接線
ｔ：くりを構成する裾線のなす角度
ｔｌ：Ｗとａｌのなす角度
ｔｒ：Ｗとａｒのなす角度
Ｐ：くりの頂点
Ｈ：脇縫目
ＳＰ：三巻縫いの折り線の任意のポイント
ＳＤ：三巻縫いの織物組織の構造的にズレやすい方向
ＳＲ：縫い方向（ミシンの生地送り機構に起因する生地のズレやすい方向）
Ｗ１：三巻縫い部分の中の、ＳＰを拘束する経糸
Ｘ１：三巻縫い部分の中の、ＳＰを拘束する緯糸
ｔｗ：Ｗ１と裾線のなす角度
ｔｘ：Ｘ１と裾線のなす角度[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a garment having a design with a neck.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, the shape of the hem of a garment such as a gentleman dress shirt or a ladies blouse is usually designed with the left and right sides cut out. When the hem of the garment is placed in the lower garment, the fabric of the garment garment overlaps and prevents discomfort during wearing. There are various theories such as a remnant of what was designed so that the shape of the hem of the clothes would follow both feet, but almost all men's dress shirts adopt this design. In addition, the sewing specifications are usually three-roll sewing. Furthermore, the shape of the hem of a conventional garment is usually formed with a relatively gentle curve.
[0003]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
However, the shape of the bottom of the garment in the conventional garment is such that the depth of the top and bottom fabrics caused by the fabric feed mechanism with the presser foot of the sewing machine and the feed dog is the portion where the depth of the bottom is shallow and the hem line is in the bias direction. Due to the relationship between the direction of misalignment and the direction in which the structure of the fabric structure is easily misaligned, there is a problem that it is likely to appear as a remarkably oblique wrinkle at the three-winding stitched portion.
[0004]
An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and to provide a garment having very few diagonal wrinkles that are likely to occur at the three-sewn seam portion of the hem.
[0005]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present invention adopts the following configuration in order to solve the above problems.
[0007]
Another aspect of the present invention is a garment having a three-sewn stitch at the hem, and when the back body is folded so that the left and right side seams are aligned, the left and right hem cut curves match It is clothes characterized by not.
[0008]
Another aspect of the present invention is a garment having a three-sewn stitch at the hem, and when the front body is overlapped so that the left and right side seams are aligned, the curve of the hem at the front right and left is curved. It is the clothes characterized by not matching.
[0009]
Still another embodiment of the present invention is a garment having a three-sewn stitch at the hem, a garment having a hem at the hem , and the angle formed by the hem constituting the chest is approximately 90 ° . And when the back body is folded so that the left and right side seams are aligned, the left and right side hems are not aligned, and the front body is superimposed so that the left and right side seams are aligned The left and right front hem cut curves do not match.
[0010]
Still another embodiment of the present invention is a garment having a three-sewn stitch at the hem, and when the garment is viewed from the front side, at least a part of the hem line constituting the chest from the top of the chest to the left side The minimum value of the angle between the tangent of the hemline and the line of sight of the front or back body of the clothing is the tangent of at least a portion of the hemline on the right side from the top of the chest and the front or The clothing according to any one of the above , characterized in that it is larger than the minimum value of the angle formed with the line of sight of the back body fabric .
[0013]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the clothes of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings.
[0014]
As shown in FIG. 1, the garment of the present invention is a garment having a cut A at the skirt S, and the angle t formed by the skirt S constituting the cut A is in the range of 85 ° to 95 °. Configured as follows. By doing so, the minimum value of the angle tl or the angle tr formed between the tangent line al or tangent line ar of the hem line S constituting the chest A and the line of sight W of the front body F or back body B of the clothing is 45. ± 5 °, and the bottom line constituting the cut is almost in the positive bias direction. FIG. 3 shows a state where the hem of the garment is sewn three times in this state. The woven yarn, warp W1 and weft X1, which restrain the deviation of the arbitrary point SP of the three-sewn portion of the garment hem, is approximately 45 ° with respect to the hem line S, and the arbitrary point SP. The direction in which is easy to move along the skirt is the same on the left and right. In other words, the direction in which the fabric structure is structurally misaligned is eliminated, and the structure of a stable three-roll stitching part that balances the left and right dynamics is achieved, reducing significant diagonal wrinkles due to fabric misalignment that tends to appear in the three-roll stitching part. It becomes easy to do.
[0015]
On the other hand, in FIG. 1, when the angle t formed by the hemline constituting the garment deviates by an angle larger than the range of 85 ° to 95 °, as shown in FIG. The angle tw formed between the weft yarn W1 and the hem line that restrains the deviation of an arbitrary point SP in the three-sewn stitch portion of the hem of the garment is larger than the angle tx formed between the weft X1 and the hem line. When an arbitrary point SP tries to shift along the skirt line in the SD direction or in the opposite direction, the point SP is restrained by the warp W1 and the weft X1. When an arbitrary point SP tries to shift in the SD direction along the skirt line, the restraining force of the warp W1 trying to stop the shift is shifted from the arbitrary point SP along the skirt line in the opposite direction of SD. When trying to do so, it is weaker than the restraining force of the weft X1 that tries to stop the deviation, and the arbitrary point SP is easily displaced in the SD direction along the skirt. In other words, a direction in which the structure of the woven fabric structure is easily misaligned appears in the three-roll stitched portion, resulting in an unstable three-roll stitched portion structure that has a bad mechanical balance between the left and right sides. Oblique wrinkles are likely to occur. In addition, in FIG. 1, when the angle t formed by the hemline constituting the garment is deviated by an angle smaller than the range of 85 ° to 95 °, for the same reason, a significant slant wrinkle due to displacement is generated at the three-winding stitch portion. It tends to occur.
[0016]
Another embodiment of the garment of the present invention is configured such that when the rear body B is folded so that the left and right side stitches H are aligned as shown in FIG. To do. Alternatively, when the front body F is overlapped so that the left and right side seams H are aligned, the hem cutting curves of the left and right front sights are not matched.
[0017]
In another aspect of the garment of the present invention, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent line al of at least a part of the hem line on the left side from the apex P of the chest and the front body of the garment constituting the chest Alternatively, the minimum value of the angle tl with the line of sight W of the back body fabric is in the range of 45 ° to 50 °. Alternatively, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent line ar of at least a part of the hem line on the right side from the apex P of the chest and the line of sight of the front body or the back body fabric of the clothing The minimum value of the angle tr formed with W is configured to be within a range of 40 ° to 45 °. By doing so, the direction in which the upper and lower fabrics are displaced due to the fabric feed mechanism by the presser foot of the sewing machine and the feed dog cancels out the direction in which the fabric structure is structurally offset, reducing diagonal wrinkles at the seam allowance. It is possible.
[0018]
In the garment of the present invention described above, as will be described later, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent of at least a part of the hem line on the left side from the apex of the skirt, It is a preferable aspect that the minimum value of the angle formed with the line of sight of the front body or the back body fabric is in the range of 45 ° to 50 °. Or, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent of at least a part of the hem line on the right side from the apex of the chest and the line of sight of the front or back body fabric of the garment It is also a preferable aspect that the minimum value of the angle formed is within a range of 40 ° to 45 °.
[0019]
Conventionally, when the fabric is sewn with the sewing machine, stress is applied to the fabric in contact with the presser foot of the sewing machine in the direction opposite to the fabric feed direction by the lower feed dog, so that the fabric in contact with the sewing machine presser is displaced in the sewing direction. Tend to be worn. The same applies to the three-turn stitching on the hem of the garment, and the same phenomenon tends to occur even in the three-turn stitching in the positive bias direction. On the other hand, as described above, the three-way stitching in the bias direction has a direction in which the fabric structure is structurally easy to shift, and the direction of the upper and lower fabric shift caused by the fabric feed mechanism by the presser foot of the sewing machine and the feed dog When overlapped, remarkable diagonal wrinkles are developed due to a synergistic effect.
[0020]
In the garment of the present invention, the inclination of the hem line of the garment is determined so that the two forces that cause the fabric displacement described above are offset, thereby reducing diagonal wrinkles that are likely to occur at the three-winding stitched portion. That is, in FIG. 2, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent line al of at least a part of the hem line on the left side from the apex P of the chest and the front body or the back body fabric of the garment. By setting the minimum value of the angle tl formed with the line of sight W of the warp within the range of 45 ° to 50 °, an arbitrary point SP of the three-winding stitch portion is SD direction along the hemline as shown in FIG. It becomes slightly easier to move, and the direction is offset with the direction in which the fabric is easily displaced by the sewing direction SR, and the diagonal wrinkles that are likely to occur at the three-winding stitch portion are reduced. Similarly, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent line ar of at least a part of the hem line on the right side from the apex P of the chest and the path of the front or back body fabric of the garment By making the minimum value of the angle tr formed with the line of sight W within the range of 40 ° to 45 °, as shown in FIG. It becomes easy to move, and it becomes a direction that cancels out the direction of cheap fabric displacement due to the sewing direction SR, and the diagonal wrinkles that are likely to occur at the three-winding sewing portion are reduced.
[0021]
On the other hand, in FIG. 2, when the garment is viewed from the front side, among the hem lines constituting the chest, the tangent line al of at least a part of the hem line on the left side from the top P of the chest and the front or back body fabric of the clothes If the minimum value of the angle tl formed with the line of sight W of the ground is larger than the range of 45 ° to 50 °, or at least a part of the skirt on the right side from the vertex P of the chest in the bottom of the bottom When the minimum value of the angle tr formed between the tangent line ar of the garment and the line of sight W of the front body or the back body of the clothing is smaller than the range of 40 ° to 45 °, the arbitrary point SP is along the skirt line. Therefore, it becomes easy to move in the direction opposite to the sewing direction, and oblique wrinkles due to the structural displacement of the fabric structure are likely to occur in the three-roll stitched portion. Further, when the garment is viewed from the front side, the tangent line al of at least a part of the hem line on the left side from the apex P of the chest and the line of sight of the front body or the back body fabric of the clothing When the minimum value of the angle tl formed with W is smaller than the range of 45 ° to 50 °, or the tangent line ar of at least a part of the skirt line on the right side from the vertex P of the chest, and the tangent line ar The direction in which an arbitrary point SP is easy to move along the hemline when the minimum value of the angle tr formed with the line of sight W of the front or back body of the clothes is greater than 40 ° to 45 °. And the direction in which the cloth easily shifts due to the cloth feed mechanism by the presser foot of the sewing machine and the lower feed dog is the same direction, and a remarkable oblique wrinkle is likely to occur due to a synergistic effect, which is not preferable.
[0022]
The relationship between the direction in which the woven fabric structure is easy to shift structurally and the direction in which the cloth presser and the fabric feed mechanism using the lower feed dog are easily shifted is determined by the sewing direction and the direction of the three windings. When the direction is opposite to that of the embodiment of the present invention, the preferred angle of the bottom line constituting the chest is opposite to the left and right of the top of the chest. Further, the relationship between the direction in which the fabric structure is easily displaced structurally and the direction in which the fabric presser and the fabric feed mechanism using the lower feed teeth are easily displaced, and the aspect of the present invention that cancels both to reduce oblique wrinkles It can be applied not only to the hems but also to the shape of heels, cuffs, armholes, sleeve alignment, side to side, front shoulder yoke, back yoke, etc.
[0023]
When the radius of the arc is small, the corners of the corners of the chest and the curves at the ends tend to cause seam wrinkles due to the pulling of the seam of the 3 rolls. It is good to draw. Moreover, it is preferable to design the chestnut so that the top of the clothing is shifted to the right side from the side stitch when the clothing is viewed from the front side. Furthermore, when the side seams are folded and the front and back bodies are combined, the bottom line that forms the front and back body crosses at half the depth of the chest. It is more preferable to design the apex to be shifted to the right side from the side seam. By doing so, when the side seams are folded and the front body and the back body are overlapped, the mismatch between the hem lines of the front body and the back body becomes inconspicuous, which is preferable.
[0024]
【Example】
Example 1
The material is a dobby fabric with a warp density of 146 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 yarns / 2.54 cm using 100% cotton 80th yarn for warp and weft, based on the dress shirt pattern Designed clothes. When looking at the garment from the front side, the hem of the hem is the angle formed by the hem line on the left side from the top P of the chest and the line of sight of the front or rear body of the garment. It was designed so that the angle between the top of the chest and the right hem line and the line of sight of the front or back body of the clothes was 40 °. At this time, the radius of the arc including the top of the chest was 75 mm, and the radius of the convex arc on both sides of the chest was 110 mm. The depth of the punch was 118 mm from the center hem position of the back body. Furthermore, the top of the chest was designed in a state shifted by 5 mm to the right side from the side seam when the garment was viewed from the front side. The dress shirt pattern was cut and sewn based on the obtained dress shirt pattern, and the hem was sewn by three-roll stitching with 0.3 cm wide stitches.
[0025]
Oblique wrinkles at the hem of the obtained dress shirt were evaluated by a method based on JIS L 1905 (a method for evaluating seam puckering of textile products), and the results are shown in Table 1. Also, when the side seams are folded and the front and back bodies are overlapped, the conspicuousness of the discrepancy between the hem lines of the front and back bodies is marked: x: conspicuous, △: slightly conspicuous, ○: almost inconspicuous 3 The evaluation was made in two categories, and the results are shown in Table 1.
[0026]
Comparative Example 1
The same material as in the example was used, and the material was produced based on the pattern of a normal dress shirt. When looking at the garment from the front side, the hem of the hem is the distance between the hem line on the left side of the skirt line that forms the left side of the garment, and the line of sight of the front or back body of the garment. The angle formed was 68 °, and the angle formed between the apex of the chest and the right hem line and the line of sight of the front or back body of the clothes was 56 °. The shape of the right side chest was the left side chest and the left and right objects. The hem of the obtained dress shirt was sewn by three-roll stitching with the same 0.3 cm width stitch as in the example. The obtained dress shirt was evaluated in the same manner as in Examples, and the results are shown in Table 1.
[0027]
[Table 1]

[0028]
As is clear from Table 1, the garment of Example 1 has fewer diagonal wrinkles at the hem three-turn stitches and is superior to the comparative example. Further, in the garment of Example 1, when the side seams are folded and the front body and the back body are overlapped, the mismatch between the hem lines of the front body and the back body is hardly noticeable.
[0029]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a high-quality garment having a small number of slanted wrinkles in the hem three-turn sewing.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is an explanatory diagram showing an embodiment of the garment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram showing another embodiment of the garment of the present invention. FIG. FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing a form of a conventional three-roll hem that is likely to cause oblique wrinkles. FIG. 5 is an explanatory diagram showing another form of a three-roll hem of the present invention. FIG. Explanatory drawing showing still another form of three volumes [Explanation of symbols]
A: chest S: base F: front body B: back body W: line of garment's background al: tangent of hem line constituting the chest ar: tangent of hem line constituting the chest t: skirt line constituting the chest Angle tl: angle formed by W and al tr: angle formed by W and ar P: top of the neck H: side stitch SP: any point of the fold line of the three-roll stitch SD: the woven structure of the three-roll stitch Direction SR which is easy to shift structurally: Sewing direction (direction where fabric is easily shifted due to the fabric feed mechanism of the sewing machine)
W1: Warp yarn for constraining SP in the three-winding stitch portion X1: Weft yarn for restraining SP in the three-winding stitching portion tw: Angle formed by W1 and the skirt line tx: Angle formed by X1 and the skirt line

Claims

A garment having three- hole stitches at the hem, wherein the left and right hem cut curves do not match when the back body is folded so that the left and right side seams are aligned.

A garment having three-sewing stitches on the hem, wherein the front and right side hems are not matched when the front body is overlapped so that the left and right side seams are aligned.

A garment having three-hole stitches at the hem , with hems at the hem line, the angle formed by the hem lines constituting the chest is approximately 90 ° , and the right and left side seams are aligned When the back body is folded, the left and right hem cutting curves do not match, and when the front body is overlapped so that the left and right side seams are aligned, the left and right hem cutting Clothing characterized by curves that do not match.

A garment having three-sewn stitches at the hem, and when the garment is viewed from the front side, of the hemline constituting the chest, the tangent of at least a part of the hemline on the left side from the apex of the chest and the front of the garment The minimum value of the angle formed with the line of sight of the back or back body fabric is the tangent of at least a part of the hem line on the right side from the top of the chest and the line of sight of the front or back body fabric of the clothing. The garment according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the garment is larger than a minimum value of an angle formed .