WO2004064799A1

WO2004064799A1 - Liquid crystalline aqueous surfactant gels

Info

Publication number: WO2004064799A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/014594
Authority: WO
Inventors: Michael Müller; Hermann Hensen; Stefanie Seidler
Original assignee: Cognis Ip Management Gmbh
Priority date: 2003-01-17
Filing date: 2003-12-19
Publication date: 2004-08-05
Also published as: DE10301505A1

Abstract

Disclosed are liquid crystalline aqueous surfactant gels comprising a) carbohydrate esters, and b) amphiphilic structurants selected among the group formed by fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and partial fatty acid glycerides.

Description

Liquid crystalline aqueous surfactant gels

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of surface-active substances and relates to new liquid-crystalline aqueous surfactant gels based on selected nonionic surfactants and amphiphilic, non-polymeric structuring agents and their use for the production of cosmetic preparations.

State of the art

Because of their exceptional theological properties, liquid crystalline surfactant gels are used in many areas of cosmetics, but also in the field of cleaning hard surfaces. The term gels is to be understood as meaning fluids which exhibit elastic properties when subjected to low mechanical stress, but which become liquid when a certain stress is exceeded. The liquid-crystalline nature of these preparations primarily serves to disperse solid particles or air bubbles without separating or releasing them. The function of these particles, the size of which is preferably in the range visible to the human eye, can e.g. be of a caring nature or just satisfy aesthetic requirements.

To prepare such gels, aqueous, usually diluted surfactant preparations are usually added to polymeric thickeners. However, such compositions have the disadvantage that both the foaming behavior and the maximum foamability to be achieved are greatly reduced by the presence of the polymers; In addition, the sensor technology of the products deteriorates significantly. However, liquid-crystalline, gel-like surfactant preparations are known from the prior art which do not require the use of polymers. For example, US Pat. No. 5,952,286 (Lever) proposes surfactant gels which contain a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants and emulsifiers and to which fatty acids or oleyl alcohol are added for structuring. No. 6,426,326 (Unilever) relates to agents of the same type which again contain mixtures of anionic and amphoteric surfactants as surface-active components and in which the thickening is effected by adding fatty acids, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohols. The disadvantage, however, is that these systems only work at very high surfactant concentrations. ions have satisfactory theological properties. According to these teachings, it is not possible to obtain gel-like products with dilute surfactant preparations, as are usually used in cosmetics.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide new liquid-crystalline, aqueous surfactant gels which can be formulated with a surfactant content of less than 20, preferably less than 10, are free of polymers and, in addition, have improved application properties compared to products of the prior art feature.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to liquid-crystalline aqueous surfactant gels containing

(a) carbohydrate esters and

(b) amphiphilic structuring agents selected from the group formed by fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty acid partial glycerides.

Surprisingly, it was found that by adding the structure donors mentioned, even dilute aqueous solutions of carbohydrate esters with a preferred active substance content of 5 to 20% by weight can be converted into liquid-crystalline, transparent to slightly opaque gels which reliably and permanently stabilize particles or air bubbles. The preparations do not use polymers and improve skin moisture. Compared to polymer-containing preparations, they impress with improved foaming power and greater maximum foaming power.

Carbohydrate ester

Carbohydrate esters are known nonionic surfactants which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry, for example by transesterification of fatty acid methyl esters with the corresponding sugars or by enzymatic means. Carbohydrate esters with a wide variety of glycoside and acyl components are commercially available, for example from the companies Sisterna or Ryoto. Typical examples are shown in the following figures:

Glucosefettsäureester

Trehalosefettsäureester

The carbohydrate esters are preferably derived from sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as aldohexoses (e.g. glucose, methylglucose, mannose, galactose), deoxyaldoses (e.g. rhamnose. Fructose), aldopentoses (e.g. ribose, arabinose, xylose), ketoses (e.g. fructose in Pyranosyl or furanosyl form), disaccharides (eg trehalose, sucrose, maltose, cellobiose, lactose) as well as tri-, tetra-, penta- and oligosaccharides .. Esters of glucose, fructose and especially sucrose (sucrose) are preferred. The acyl radicals of the carbohydrate esters can preferably be derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22 and in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are sugar esters based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroseline acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, araelachearic acid. Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Depending on the sugar base and the amount of fatty acids used, the carbohydrate esters can have between 1 and 10 ester groups. Carbohydrate esters are preferred which have an average degree of esterification of 1 to 3 and in particular a monoester content of 75 to 90% by weight.

Amphiphilic structure provider

In a first embodiment of the present invention, suitable amphiphilic structure donors are fatty acids (component B1), which preferably follow the formula (I)

R ^ O-OH d ⁾ in which R CO represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arenachene acid, elaeacholic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Technical fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids are preferred.

In a second embodiment, fatty alcohols (component b2) which usually follow the formula (II) are also suitable for structuring the surfactant gels,

R ² OH (II)

in which R represents a linear or branched, optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotride-cyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol. 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol, ricinoyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, e.g. in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. Technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, are preferred.

In a third embodiment of the invention, fatty acid partial esters (component b3), which generally follow formula (III), are preferably used as amphiphilic structure donors,

OR ⁵

R ³ OCH ₂ C ¹ HCH ₂ OR ⁴ (DTJ)

in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent hydrogen or an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms with the proviso that at least one and at most two of the three radicals are hydrogen. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides Base of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, and erasic acid, and erachic acid, arachidic acid their technical mixtures. Technical lauric acid glycerides, palmitic acid glycerides, stearic acid glycerides, isostearic acid glycerides, oleic acid glycerides, behenic acid glycerides and / or erucic acid glycerides, which have a monoglyceride content in the range from 50 to 95, preferably 60 to 90% by weight, are preferably used.

Surfactant

Typically, the surfactant gels contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 and preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2. Based on the gels, the concentration of components (a) and (b) can each be 1 to 20, preferably 3 to 10 and in particular 5 to 8 wt .-%. To further improve the application properties, in particular the foaming power, they can contain further co-surfactants, for example in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the gels, of which suitable examples are mentioned below.

Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention are distinguished by improved sensor technology. Further objects of the invention therefore relate to their use for the production of cosmetic preparations and for regulating skin moisture. The cosmetic preparations can contain the surfactant gels in amounts of 2 to 40% by weight, preferably 6 to 20% by weight, based on the cosmetic agent and calculated as components a) and b).

Cosmetic preparations

The surfactant gels according to the invention can be used for the production of cosmetic preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths and the like. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild cosurfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV light protection factors, biogenic Active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, Contain self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Cosurfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic co-surfactants may be present as surface-active substances. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acid sulfonates, Alkyl ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carbonic acid, fatty acid ethersate fatty acids, fatty acid fatty acids, and their fatty acid fatty acids, fatty acid ethoxylates, N-acylamino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, alkyl fatty acid gluconic acid derivatives, and glucuric acid silicate (glucuric acid silicate) or glucuric acid acid derivatives (FG) especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates. Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid aurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amide betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, based on the latter, preferably protein fatty acid condensates. oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -Cι come as oil bodies, for example ₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂ fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myrylate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate , stearyl stearate, rylisostearat Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, Isostea-, Isostearyloleat, nylpalmitat isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, Oleyleracat, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat , Behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, emyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C _o -Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₈ -Fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (C etiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane or squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: > Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or

Mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts; Lanolin alcohol;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate.

> Ethylene oxide addition products

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Cι _{_2/18} - Fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to approximately 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglyce- chloride, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, linolenic säurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremo- noglycerid, Malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

> Sorbitan esters

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan tresorbitan trucate, sorbitan trucate, sorbitan trucate, sorbitan triisate, sorbitan triisate, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, sesqui- tartrate, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitantritartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat, sorting bitandicitrat, sorbitan, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

> Polyglycerol esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyce ryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDF), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Gera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

> Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

> Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N ₅ N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate. This is particularly preferred under the CTFA name Coca- midopropyl betaine known fatty acid amide derivative. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _{8 /} j ₈ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylamino-butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, come among others , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable. pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fat substances such as fatty alcohols, fat ketones. Fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

If desired, consistency enhancers and thickeners can be included, even if they are not required for the purposes of the invention. Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of Fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopole® and Pulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel- types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable. superfatting

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

If desired, polymers, for example those with cosmetic properties, can be included. Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, such as quinine quinine, such as quaternized derivatives such as quinine distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their polyesters, uncrosslinked polyols and non-crosslinked polyols amidopropy memylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl meth acrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethyla inethyl ethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

For the purposes of the invention, such polymers are not required for the preparation of the surfactant gels, but can be contained in the cosmetic composition.

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.

UN Lichtschutzfüter

UN light protection factors are to be understood, for example, as organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3, 3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester; Triazine derivatives, such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyloxy) -l, 3 ₅ 5-triazine and octyl triazone or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-l, 3-dione, e.g. l- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

> 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters, such as, for example, 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3 - (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert. -Butyl-4 '- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert. -Butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4 Propyl methoxy cinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxy cinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as e.g. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 μm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). As a hydrophobic coating agent Silicones are particularly suitable, and trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones in particular. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

Biogenic agents and antioxidants

Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essentielle ceramides Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, bambanus extract and vitamin complexes.

Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain, which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, caroline (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (eg dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfonins very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, feralic acid, furfurylidene glucitol. Camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium and its derivatives) Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances. Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

> Germ inhibitors

In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4' -Trichlor-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4 -Chlor-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (l-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol , 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -l, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynylbutylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, Mint oil, famesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

> Enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, Diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate. Gemchsabsorber

Substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can largely retain them are suitable as vegetable absorbers. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Chamber absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixers", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrances or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as vegetable maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, cargo bowls, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols anethole, citronellell Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarine lily oil, orange talc oil, orange talc oil, orange glycol oil, orange glycol oil are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evemyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures. > Antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients,

> Oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers, coemulsifiers,

> Consistency agents, auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or non-aqueous solvents such. As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. A-aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:

anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-l - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt Mo, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, magnesium pyrithione Aluminiumpyrithion and / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

Ouellmittel

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by RLochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect repellents

Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents. hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin;

> Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; Methyl compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose; Aminosugars such as glucamine; Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit bowls (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and Branches (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropylate propylate, stylate propionate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, heather, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil are preferred. Orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evemyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, iryl romyl acetate, benzyl acetate, benzyl acetate and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

For example, peppermint oil comes as flavors. Spearmint oil, anise oil, stememan oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Koche illerot A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder lacquer (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole. The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 0.1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the cosmetic agents. The surfactant gels can be present in amounts of 2 to 40% by weight, preferably 6-20% by weight, based on the cosmetic agent and calculated as components a) and b). The remaining 100% by weight of the rest of the cosmetic products is water. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes. The auxiliaries and additives can be added to the gel according to the invention or be present during the preparation of the surfactant gel.

Examples

The following table shows example formulations for surfactant gels according to the invention based on carbohydrate esters and suitable amphiphilic structuring agents. All quantities are percentages by weight. The gels have proven to be transparent and have a flow limit, so that they are able to keep particles and trapped air bubbles in suspension. It was also found that the preparations increase the skin moisture compared to untreated skin after a "rinse-off" treatment.

Table 1 surfactant gels

Claims

claims

1. Liquid-crystalline aqueous surfactant gels containing

(a) carbohydrate esters and

2. surfactant gels according spoke 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a) carbohydrate esters, the carbohydrate residues are derived from sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms.

3. surfactant gels according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that they contain as component (a) carbohydrate esters whose carbohydrate residues are derived from glucose, fructose or sucrose.

4. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that they contain as component (a) carbohydrate esters, the acyl radicals of which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

5. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain as component (a) carbohydrate esters which have an average degree of esterification of 1 to 3.

6. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain as component (a) carbohydrate esters which have a monoester content of 75 to 90% by weight.

7. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain as component (b) fatty acids of formula (I)

R ^ O-OH (I)

in the R ^! CO stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

8. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they contain fatty alcohols of the formula (II) as component (b), R ² OH (II)

in which R represents a linear or branched, optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

9. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they contain, as component (b), fatty acid partial glycerides of the formula (III),

OR ⁵ R ³ OCH ₂ C ¹ HCH ₂ OR ⁴ (EU)

in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent hydrogen or an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms with the proviso that at least one and at most two of the three radicals are hydrogen.

10. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3.

11. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that they each contain components (a) and (b) in amounts of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the gels.

12. surfactant gels according to at least one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that they also contain co-surfactants.

13. surfactant gels according spoke 12, characterized in that they contain the co-surfactants in amounts of 0.1 to 10 wt .-% - based on the gels.

14. Use of surfactant gels according to claim 1 for the preparation of cosmetic preparations.

15. Use of surfactant gels according to spoke 1 to regulate skin moisture.