WO2004064799A1 - Gels d'agent tensioactif aqueux a cristaux liquides - Google Patents

Gels d'agent tensioactif aqueux a cristaux liquides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004064799A1
WO2004064799A1 PCT/EP2003/014594 EP0314594W WO2004064799A1 WO 2004064799 A1 WO2004064799 A1 WO 2004064799A1 EP 0314594 W EP0314594 W EP 0314594W WO 2004064799 A1 WO2004064799 A1 WO 2004064799A1
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Prior art keywords
acid
contain
surfactant gels
gels according
fatty
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PCT/EP2003/014594
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Michael Müller
Hermann Hensen
Stefanie Seidler
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Cognis Ip Management Gmbh
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Publication of WO2004064799A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004064799A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of surface-active substances and relates to new liquid-crystalline aqueous surfactant gels based on selected nonionic surfactants and amphiphilic, non-polymeric structuring agents and their use for the production of cosmetic preparations.
  • liquid crystalline surfactant gels are used in many areas of cosmetics, but also in the field of cleaning hard surfaces.
  • gels is to be understood as meaning fluids which exhibit elastic properties when subjected to low mechanical stress, but which become liquid when a certain stress is exceeded.
  • the liquid-crystalline nature of these preparations primarily serves to disperse solid particles or air bubbles without separating or releasing them.
  • the function of these particles the size of which is preferably in the range visible to the human eye, can e.g. be of a caring nature or just satisfy aesthetic requirements.
  • aqueous, usually diluted surfactant preparations are usually added to polymeric thickeners.
  • such compositions have the disadvantage that both the foaming behavior and the maximum foamability to be achieved are greatly reduced by the presence of the polymers; In addition, the sensor technology of the products deteriorates significantly.
  • liquid-crystalline, gel-like surfactant preparations are known from the prior art which do not require the use of polymers.
  • US Pat. No. 5,952,286 (Lever) proposes surfactant gels which contain a mixture of anionic and amphoteric surfactants and emulsifiers and to which fatty acids or oleyl alcohol are added for structuring. No.
  • 6,426,326 (Unilever) relates to agents of the same type which again contain mixtures of anionic and amphoteric surfactants as surface-active components and in which the thickening is effected by adding fatty acids, fatty acid esters or fatty alcohols.
  • the disadvantage is that these systems only work at very high surfactant concentrations. ions have satisfactory theological properties. According to these teachings, it is not possible to obtain gel-like products with dilute surfactant preparations, as are usually used in cosmetics.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide new liquid-crystalline, aqueous surfactant gels which can be formulated with a surfactant content of less than 20, preferably less than 10, are free of polymers and, in addition, have improved application properties compared to products of the prior art feature.
  • the invention relates to liquid-crystalline aqueous surfactant gels containing
  • amphiphilic structuring agents selected from the group formed by fatty acids, fatty alcohols and fatty acid partial glycerides.
  • Carbohydrate esters are known nonionic surfactants which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry, for example by transesterification of fatty acid methyl esters with the corresponding sugars or by enzymatic means.
  • Carbohydrate esters with a wide variety of glycoside and acyl components are commercially available, for example from the companies Sisterna or Ryoto. Typical examples are shown in the following figures:
  • the carbohydrate esters are preferably derived from sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as aldohexoses (e.g. glucose, methylglucose, mannose, galactose), deoxyaldoses (e.g. rhamnose. Fructose), aldopentoses (e.g. ribose, arabinose, xylose), ketoses (e.g. fructose in Pyranosyl or furanosyl form), disaccharides (eg trehalose, sucrose, maltose, cellobiose, lactose) as well as tri-, tetra-, penta- and oligosaccharides .
  • aldohexoses e.g. glucose, methylglucose, mannose, galactose
  • deoxyaldoses e.g. rhamnose.
  • Fructose aldopentoses
  • ketoses e.g. fruct
  • esters of glucose, fructose and especially sucrose (sucrose) are preferred.
  • the acyl radicals of the carbohydrate esters can preferably be derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22 and in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are sugar esters based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroseline acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, araelachearic acid.
  • the carbohydrate esters can have between 1 and 10 ester groups.
  • Carbohydrate esters are preferred which have an average degree of esterification of 1 to 3 and in particular a monoester content of 75 to 90% by weight.
  • suitable amphiphilic structure donors are fatty acids (component B1), which preferably follow the formula (I)
  • R CO represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arenachene acid, elaeacholic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which occur, for example, in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.
  • Technical fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow
  • fatty alcohols which usually follow the formula (II) are also suitable for structuring the surfactant gels,
  • R represents a linear or branched, optionally hydroxy-substituted alkyl or alkenyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotride-cyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol.
  • Technical fatty alcohols with 12 to 18 carbon atoms such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, are preferred.
  • fatty acid partial esters (component b3), which generally follow formula (III), are preferably used as amphiphilic structure donors,
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent hydrogen or an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms with the proviso that at least one and at most two of the three radicals are hydrogen.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides Base of caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, and erasic acid, and erachic acid, arachidic acid their technical mixtures.
  • the surfactant gels contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 and preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2. Based on the gels, the concentration of components (a) and (b) can each be 1 to 20, preferably 3 to 10 and in particular 5 to 8 wt .-%. To further improve the application properties, in particular the foaming power, they can contain further co-surfactants, for example in amounts of 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the gels, of which suitable examples are mentioned below.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished by improved sensor technology. Further objects of the invention therefore relate to their use for the production of cosmetic preparations and for regulating skin moisture.
  • the cosmetic preparations can contain the surfactant gels in amounts of 2 to 40% by weight, preferably 6 to 20% by weight, based on the cosmetic agent and calculated as components a) and b).
  • the surfactant gels according to the invention can be used for the production of cosmetic preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths and the like. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild cosurfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV light protection factors, biogenic Active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, Contain self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • cosmetic preparations such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths, shower baths and the like.
  • these agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild co
  • Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic co-surfactants may be present as surface-active substances.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acid sulfonates, Alkyl ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, alkyl fatty acid gluconic acid derivatives, and glucuric acid silicate (glucuric acid silicate) or glucuric acid acid derivatives (FG) especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates. Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid aurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkyl amide betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, based on the latter, preferably protein fatty acid condensates.
  • oil body fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates and monoglyceride sulfates.
  • Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates,
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C ⁇ come as oil bodies, for example 3 - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 2 fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myrylate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate , stearyl stearate, rylisostearat Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearyleruc
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 2 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of C 18 -C 38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
  • esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • triglycerides based on C o -Cio fatty acids liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 -C 8 -Fatty acids
  • esters of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or poly
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane or squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • dicaprylyl ether such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE)
  • silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.
  • aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as squalane or squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: > Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • the adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C ⁇ 2/18 - Fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to approximately 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglyce- chloride, Linolklaremonoglycerid, Linolklarediglycerid, Linolenchuremonoglycerid, linolenic klarediglycerid, Erucaklaremonoglycerid, Erucaklakladiglycerid, Weinklaremonoglycerid, Weinklarediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, ⁇ pfelklamo- noglycerid, Malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyce ryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDF), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Gera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Is
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N 5 N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N 5 N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacy
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 8 / j 8 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts .
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylamino-butyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids in each case about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethylaminopropionate and C 12/18 acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids.
  • Natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, come among others , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes.
  • lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins are those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable. pearlescent
  • Pearlescent waxes that can be used are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fat substances such as fatty alcohols, fat ketones.
  • Fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
  • consistency enhancers and thickeners can be included, even if they are not required for the purposes of the invention.
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of Fatty acids, polyacrylates (eg Carbopole® and Pulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel- types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also
  • Bentonites such as Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective.
  • Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g.
  • Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, such as quinine quinine, such as quaternized derivatives such as quinine distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their polyesters, uncrosslinked polyols and non-crosslinked polyols amidopropy memylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl meth acrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethyla inethyl ethyl methacrylate / vinyl cap
  • such polymers are not required for the preparation of the surfactant gels, but can be contained in the cosmetic composition.
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • UN light protection factors are to be understood, for example, as organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3, 3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
  • Triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-hexyloxy) -l, 3 5 5-triazine and octyl triazone or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
  • UV-A filters such as, for example, 1 - (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3 - (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-tert. -Butyl-4 '- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 ⁇ m and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). As a hydrophobic coating agent Silicones are particularly suitable, and trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones in particular. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
  • biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, coin ceramides Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, bambanus extract and vitamin complexes.
  • Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain, which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g.
  • Carotenoids eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene
  • carbotenoids eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene
  • chlorogenic acid and their derivatives eg dihydroliponic acid
  • lipoic acid and their derivatives eg dihydroliponic acid
  • aurothioglucose propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts , Dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodi
  • ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid e.g
  • ascorbyl palmitate Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosyl rutin, feralic acid, furfurylidene glucitol.
  • Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as.
  • TTC 3,4,4'-trichlorocar
  • Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT).
  • the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors include sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, Diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
  • gemchsabsorber such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoe
  • Substances which absorb odor-forming compounds and can largely retain them are suitable as vegetable absorbers. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Chamber absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixers", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrances or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as vegetable maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, cargo bowls, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example the jonones and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols anethole, citronellell Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
  • auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or non-aqueous solvents such.
  • ethanol propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z.
  • B. with amino acids such as glycine.
  • customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
  • Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
  • water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-l - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt Mo, Lamepon® UD (protein unde
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by RLochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Lower alkyl glucosides in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit bowls (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and Branches (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropylate propylate, stylate propionate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones, for example, the jonones, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, and the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpinol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin.
  • Orange oil Orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evemyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, iryl romyl acetate, benzyl acetate, benzyl acetate and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.
  • peppermint oil comes as flavors. Spearmint oil, anise oil, stememan oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.
  • the dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Koche illerot A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder lacquer (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole. The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 0.1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the cosmetic agents.
  • the surfactant gels can be present in amounts of 2 to 40% by weight, preferably 6-20% by weight, based on the cosmetic agent and calculated as components a) and b). The remaining 100% by weight of the rest of the cosmetic products is water.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes.
  • the auxiliaries and additives can be added to the gel according to the invention or be present during the preparation of the surfactant gel.
  • the following table shows example formulations for surfactant gels according to the invention based on carbohydrate esters and suitable amphiphilic structuring agents. All quantities are percentages by weight.
  • the gels have proven to be transparent and have a flow limit, so that they are able to keep particles and trapped air bubbles in suspension. It was also found that the preparations increase the skin moisture compared to untreated skin after a "rinse-off" treatment.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
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  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des gels d'agent tensioactif aqueux à cristaux liquides comprenant (a) des esters d'hydrate de carbone et (b) des structurants amphiphiles choisis dans le groupe formé par des acides gras, des alcools gras et des glycérides partiels d'acide gras.
PCT/EP2003/014594 2003-01-17 2003-12-19 Gels d'agent tensioactif aqueux a cristaux liquides WO2004064799A1 (fr)

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Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1988010147A1 (fr) * 1987-06-23 1988-12-29 Novo-Nordisk A/S Composition moussante
JPH07308562A (ja) * 1994-05-16 1995-11-28 Mitsubishi Chem Corp 乳化剤組成物
EP0750903A1 (fr) * 1995-06-28 1997-01-02 Coöperatie Cosun U.A. Composition désodorisante
WO2000045778A1 (fr) * 1999-02-05 2000-08-10 Unilever Plc Produits de traitement capillaire a base de polyester d'acide gras non satures, c20 ou plus, de polyols cycliques
EP1097703A1 (fr) * 1999-11-08 2001-05-09 L'oreal Composition à application topique contenant un sucre, et ses utilisations cosmétiques
WO2002024152A2 (fr) * 2000-09-21 2002-03-28 J.P.M.E.D. Ltd. Emulsion huile dans la glycerine
EP1304098A1 (fr) * 2001-10-15 2003-04-23 L'oreal D'émulsion huile-dans-eau contenant un copolymère siliconé et utilisations cosmétiques
EP1340486A1 (fr) * 2002-03-01 2003-09-03 Cognis France S.A. Utilisation d' esters de sucre

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1988010147A1 (fr) * 1987-06-23 1988-12-29 Novo-Nordisk A/S Composition moussante
JPH07308562A (ja) * 1994-05-16 1995-11-28 Mitsubishi Chem Corp 乳化剤組成物
EP0750903A1 (fr) * 1995-06-28 1997-01-02 Coöperatie Cosun U.A. Composition désodorisante
WO2000045778A1 (fr) * 1999-02-05 2000-08-10 Unilever Plc Produits de traitement capillaire a base de polyester d'acide gras non satures, c20 ou plus, de polyols cycliques
EP1097703A1 (fr) * 1999-11-08 2001-05-09 L'oreal Composition à application topique contenant un sucre, et ses utilisations cosmétiques
WO2002024152A2 (fr) * 2000-09-21 2002-03-28 J.P.M.E.D. Ltd. Emulsion huile dans la glycerine
EP1304098A1 (fr) * 2001-10-15 2003-04-23 L'oreal D'émulsion huile-dans-eau contenant un copolymère siliconé et utilisations cosmétiques
EP1340486A1 (fr) * 2002-03-01 2003-09-03 Cognis France S.A. Utilisation d' esters de sucre

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Section Ch Week 199605, Derwent World Patents Index; Class A25, AN 1996-044286, XP002284272 *

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