WO2002032380A2

WO2002032380A2 - Cosmetic emulsions

Info

Publication number: WO2002032380A2
Application number: PCT/EP2001/011547
Authority: WO
Inventors: Jaime Tuduri; Joaquim Bigorra Llosas; Rafael Pi Subirana
Original assignee: Cognis Iberia S. L.
Priority date: 2000-10-17
Filing date: 2001-10-06
Publication date: 2002-04-25
Also published as: DE10051351A1; WO2002032380A3; AU2001295597A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic emulsions containing oil bodies, emulsifiers and latex type polymers. The invention is characterised in that the lattice type structures are obtained exclusively by condensating monomers with strong acid functions and co-monomers which have either a weak acid function or react neutrally.

Description

Cosmetic emulsions

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetic emulsions and relates to special emulsions containing novel latices and a process for their preparation.

State of the art

The term “latex” means that the cosmetic chemist understands colloidal dispersions of polymers in aqueous media. Such dispersions are generally milky-white liquids which are low-viscosity even at relatively high polymer contents, but which crosslink as a function of the pH and can build up very high viscosities even when diluted strongly. For this reason, latices, especially those based on polyacrylates, are used as thickeners for cosmetic preparations.

For example, from the international patent application WO 99/36445 (SEPPIC) cosmetic emulsions are known which contain W / O and O / W emulsifiers and moreover 20 to 60% by weight of positive latices which are linear or branched by polycondensation Polyelectrolytes with at least a first monomer with a strong acid function and a second co-monomer which either has a weak acid function or has a neutral reaction. However, it is disadvantageous that the emulsions leave a dull impression on the skin and are not absorbed properly. If you set them to acidic pH values, you will also see a dramatic decrease in viscosity. Finally, it is undesirable for the process to produce the latices in dilute aqueous dispersion, so that part of the water usually has to be removed in order to be able to market concentrated preparations.

Accordingly, the object of the invention was to produce cosmetic O / W emulsions containing latices which, compared to the prior art, have improved tactile properties and a faster absorption capacity and at the same time have pH values in the range of 3 let set to 5 without causing a collapse in concentration. Specifically, the preparations should contain 3% by weight aqueous dilution even at a pH of 3 still have a Brookfield viscosity (25 ° C, 2 rpm) of at least 80,000 mPas. Another object has been to provide a process for the preparation of the emulsions, which should be distinguished above all by the fact that it allows preparations with a solids content in the range from 30 to 50% by weight to be produced without this being distilled or another concentration step is required.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic emulsions containing oil bodies, emulsifiers and polymers of the latex type, which are distinguished in that the latices are obtained exclusively by condensation of monomers with strong acid functions and co-monomers which either have a weak acid function or react neutrally ,

Surprisingly, it was found that emulsions containing the latices according to the invention are distinguished by much better tactile properties compared to commercial products and are absorbed into the skin much more quickly. The preparations can contain the latices in amounts of 15 to 65 and preferably 30 to 50% by weight, based on the emulsions, and in turn serve as a consistency agent for the production of cosmetic end products, in which they are present in amounts of 1 to 10, preferably 2 up to 5 wt .-% can be included.

manufacturing

The invention further relates to a process for the preparation of cosmetic O / W emulsions containing latex-type polymers, in which

(a) firstly an aqueous phase (A) containing monomers capable of polymerization with a strong acid function (Ml) and also co-monomers (M2) which are also capable of polymerization and which are distinguished by a weak acid function, and an organic phase (B) containing Oil body and W / O emulsifiers, (b) the phases (A) and (B) intimately mixed, and

(c) the monomers contained in the W / O emulsion thus obtained are polymerized in a manner known per se with phase inversion. The advantage of this process is that O / W emulsions with solids contents in the desired range of 30 to 50% by weight are obtained in one step without the need for a distillation or concentration step. Another advantage is that the emulsions can also be adjusted to acidic pH values without the viscosity collapsing.

Monomers and Co-Monomers

Suitable monomers and co-monomers are distinguished by the fact that they have structural features which enable them to polymerize; these are preferably double bonds. Appropriate unsaturated carboxylic acids, preferably acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures thereof are suitable as monomers (MI) which are additionally distinguished by a strong acid function; In addition, unsaturated dicarboxylic acids such as malonic or fumaric acid can also be used.

Suitable co-monomers which either have a weak acid function or react neutrally are esters or amides of these carboxylic acids. Typical examples are the esters of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid with C 1 -C ₂₂ alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, allyl alcohol, the isomeric propanols, butanols and pentanols and fatty alcohols, as are caprone alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecy - Alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elausestearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and erucyl alcohol, and erucyl alcohol mixtures thereof. The esters are preferably derived from unsaturated alcohols, so that double bonds are available for the polymerization both in the acid component and in the alcohol component. Accordingly, esters based on allyl alcohol are particularly preferred. The amides can be derived accordingly from primary or secondary C ₄ C ₄ amines, such as methylamine, dimethylamine, ethylamine, diethylamine, propylamine, dipropylamine and the various butylamines and di-butylamines. Also possible are oligoamines, such as, for example, diethylene triamine, tripropylenetetramine or alkanolamines, such as, for example, ethanolamine, propanolamine and the like. If primary or bifunctional amines are used, bridged amides can also result, which are also suitable for the polymerization. A typical example of this is bisacrylamide. The co-monomers are usually used in amounts of 5 to 100 preferably 10 to 50 and in particular 15 to 25 mol%, based on the monomers.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -Cι come as oil bodies, for example ₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl rucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stylate , stearyl stearate, palmitate Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl, ristat oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, Behenylmy-, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat , Beheny loleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate in question. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 AI), especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based of C ₆ -C ₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (eg Finsolv®

TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes. W / O emulsifiers

The selection of the W / O emulsifiers which are used in the first step of the process is in itself not very critical. Typical examples are adducts of 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide with hydroxy-functionalized triglycerides, which are commercially available, for example, under the name PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Dehymuls® HRE 7). Polyglycerol esters, such as e.g. Polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH) or Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI) as well as certain partial glycerides, e.g. Glyceryl Oleate (Monomuls® 90-O 18). Complex W / O emulsifier mixtures are also commercially available, e.g. Dicocoyl Pentaerythryl Distearyl Citrate (and) Sorbitan Sesquioleate (and) Cera Alba (and) Aluminum Stearate (Dehymuls® E) or Dicocoyl Pentaerythryl Distearyl Citrate (and) Cera Microcrystallina (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Aluminum Stearate (and) Propylene Glycol (Dehymuls® F). The emulsifiers mentioned are commercial products from Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf. With regard to other suitable substances, reference is made to the chapter "Co-emulsifiers". The emulsifiers can be used in amounts of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the W / O emulsion.

emulsion

The polymerization of the monomers and co-monomers takes place in the emulsion in a manner known per se. Usually, an aqueous phase which is adjusted to an approximately neutral pH and which contains the monomers / co-monomers and stabilizers, radical initiators and the like, and an organic phase with the oil bodies and the W / O emulsifiers are usually prepared. The aqueous phase is added to the oil phase with strong shear and the W / O emulsion is prepared in this way. The polymerization then takes place at temperatures in the range from 40 to 60 ° C., which usually takes 3 to 10 and preferably 4 to 5 hours. The polymerized mass is then reacted at about 70 ° C. for about 1 h.

O / W Emulqatoren

A particular component of the process according to the invention is the phase inversion of water-in-oil after oil-in-water, which is caused by the polymerization of the monomers. In order to stabilize the resulting O / W emulsions, it is advisable to add an effective amount of at least one O / W emulsifier to them. Typical examples of this are optionally ethoxylated partial glycerides, e.g. Glyceryl stearate (Cutina® GMS) or PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (Cutina® E 24), fatty acids such as palmitic and stearic acid and their mixtures (Cutina® FS), ethoxylated oleyl or cetearyl alcohols with 5 to 30 EO units (Eumulgin® 0, Eumulgin® B) or adducts of 40 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with hydroxy-substituted triglycerides, such as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Eumulgin® HRE 40). Mixtures such as e.g. Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin (Eumulgin® VL 75). The emulsifiers mentioned are commercial products from Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf. With regard to other suitable substances, reference is made to the chapter "Co-emulsifiers". The emulsifiers can be used in amounts of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the O / W emulsion. In this way, emulsions are obtained which are typically 30 up to 50 and preferably 40 to 45% by weight of active substance (= non-aqueous fractions) and in 3% by weight solution at pH values in the range from 3 to 50 have a viscosity of 80,000 to 110,000 mPas (Brookfield, 2 rpm, 25 ° C).

Cosmetic emulsions

The cosmetic emulsions can be, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations or ointments. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, co-emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, Contain deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like. surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants can be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of these agents usually being about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids,

Alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, Glycerol ether, Fettsäureethersulfate, hybrid droxymischethersulfate, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides , N-acylamino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, especially glucoronic acid, or glucoramic acid derivatives, and glucoronic acid nuclei (glucoronic acid) derivatives, in particular, glucoronic acid (G) -glucoronic acid (G) -glucoronic acid (G) -glucoric acid-derived (G) -glucoramic acid-derived (G) -glucoramic acid (G) -glucoric acid-derived (especially glucoric acid) vegetable glucoric acid derivatives Wheat-based products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, relevant reviews include, for example, J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), " Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates. Monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid reglucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

Co-emulsifiers

Examples of suitable co-emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

> Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; > Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as cellulose ) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; > Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 1165574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts; > Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers, for example polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate; > Polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate.

> Ethylene oxide investment products

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Cι ₂ / ι ₈ - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl olefin glycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.

> Partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, linolenic acid diglyceride, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremo- noglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain minor amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

> Sorbitan esters

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, sorbitan tandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat , Sorbitan sesquitarate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate,

Sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures are possible. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

> Polvolycerol esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4

Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), PolygIyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl- 4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cre- mophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures , Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. > Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

> Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a _{C8 /} ι ₈ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S0 ₃ H group and contain internal to form salts are capable. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. These are particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants

N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, the Kokosacylaminoethylaminopropionat and the Cι ₂ ι ₈ - Acylsarcosin.

Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the ester quat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester,

Salts are particularly preferred. Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, camauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrate, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microfax waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol stearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof. Consistency indicator and thickener

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from

Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as e.g. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

Überfettunqsmittel

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used as stabilizers. polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat®

(BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and polyesters and their esters, uncrosslinked , Acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / teraminate / vinyl acrylate methacrylate / vinyl methacrylate methacrylate / methacrylate / vinyl methacrylate / methacrylate / vinyl amide / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and / or methyl acrylate / vinyl amide / dimethylamino-cellulose methacrylate / methacrylate / vinyl amide / dimethylamino-cellulose-methacrylate / methacrylate-methyl-methacrylate-methacrylate / acrylate / vinyl amide / dimethylamino-cellulose-methacrylate / acrylate / vinyl amide / dimethylamino-cellulose-methacrylate-methacrylate / acrylate / vinyl amide / dimethylamino / cellulose methacrylate / acrylate / vinyl amide / vinyl amide / dimethylamino / cellulose methacrylate / acrylate / vinyl methacrylate and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and resinous at room temperature can. Simethicones, in which there are are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate; > Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester; > Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4 "-methylbenzophenone, 2,2 ^x -dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;

> Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-TrianiIino- (p-carbo-2 ^λ -ethyl- -hexyloxy) -l, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 AI or dioctyl butamido triazone

(Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-l, 3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4 methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are: > 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; > Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as l- (4 ^λ -tert.Butylphenyl) -3- ^{(4-methoxyphenyl)} propan-l, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl -4 ^λ - methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), l-phenyl-3- (4 ^λ- isopropylphenyl) propane-l, 3-dione and enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 AI (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 4-tert-butyl 4 ^λ methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (Octocrylene), in combination with ester cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Such combinations are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further Suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P.Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122 _f 543 (1996) and Parf.Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples of this are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiou-racil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-

Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine Hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (eg pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid) ), Humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-

Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, Furfurylidenglucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, non Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Trihydroxybutyrophe-, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof , Superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnS0 ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers , Sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients. Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-ceramides, essentielle ceramides, Plant extracts, such as To understand prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

> Germ-inhibiting agents In principle, all substances effective against gram-positive bacteria are suitable as germ-inhibiting agents, such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4' -Trichlor-2 '-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4 -Chlor-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (l-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol , 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1, 2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4 'trichlorocarbanilide

(TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, famesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC) -Nalicamide acid, such as salicylic acid. B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

> Enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other fabrics, which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid acid, adipic acid acid, adipic acid acid, adipic acid acid, adipic acid, adipic acid, adipic acid - Ethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers and, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance. Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic

Fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear

Alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, for the ketones, for example the joonones and methylcedryl ketone, for the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniolethyl and linalool, phenolol, linalool , The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components are used as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbane oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydro myrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citric oil, mandarin allyl oil, mandarin allyl oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, orlamine oil, oramino oil, are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate,

Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romilat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

> astringent active ingredients,

> Oil components,

> nonionic emulsifiers,

> Co-emulsifiers,

> Consistency adjuster,> auxiliary substances such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or

> non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are, for example, aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, e.g. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, antiperspirants can contain customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries in smaller amounts. Examples of such oil-soluble auxiliaries are: > anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,

> synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or

> Oil-soluble perfume oils.

Common water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl) are used as anti-dandruff agents -l - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl) -l, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyljpiperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Sulfur-polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexoxide, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione,

Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

Ouellmittel

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993). Insect repellents

Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate.

Self-tanners and depiqmentants

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin;

> Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose; > Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-l, 3-propanediol. preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme) ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, α-Isomethylionon and Methylcedrylketon, to the alcohols Anethol,

Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol,

Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamylglycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur,

Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romilllat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

Examples of suitable flavors are peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, stemanis oil, cumin oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigo (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition. The agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.

Examples

Example 1. 300 g of deionized water and 500 g of concentrated acrylic acid were placed in a 2 l stirred vessel. Then the mixture was first added dropwise to a pH of 5.5 with ammonia solution and then with 0.5 g of sodium EDTA and 0.8 g of bisacrylamide. At the same time, an organic phase consisting of 200 g paraffin oil (Shellsol® D100) and 15 g sorbitan oleate (SPAN® 80) was produced in another mixing vessel. The organic phase was transferred to an Ultraturrax and the aqueous phase was slowly added over a period of 30 min at a stirring speed of 2500 rpm. The emulsion obtained in this way was then transferred to a polymerization reactor, flushed with nitrogen (500 ml / min) for 45 minutes and kept at 50 to 52 ° C. for 4 hours with the addition of 2 g of AIBN. After the polymerization was complete, the mass was heated at 70 ° C. for a further hour. Then allowed to cool to 30 ° C and the reaction product was mixed with 30 g castor oil + 40EO. The emulsion thus obtained had a solids content of 47% by weight and a Brookfield viscosity (25 ° C., 10 rpm) of 10,000 mPas.

Example 2. Analogously to Example 1, 500 g of concentrated acrylic acid, 1 g of methyl methacrylate, 0.5 g of EDTA sodium salt and 25% by weight ammonia solution were combined until a pH of 5.5 was established. In parallel, the organic phase was prepared by mixing 200 g of paraffin white oil and 15 g of oleic acid sorbitan ester (SPAN 80, ICI) with vigorous stirring. The organic phase was placed in an Ultraturrax and the aqueous phase was added over a period of 30 minutes at a speed of 3,500 rpm. The emulsion obtained in this way was then transferred to a polymerization reactor, flushed with nitrogen (700 ml / min) for 45 minutes and kept at 55 ° C. for 4 hours with the addition of 2 g of AIBN. After the polymerization was complete, the mass was heated at 70 ° C. for a further hour. Then allowed to cool to 30 ° C and the reaction product was mixed with 30 g castor oil + 40EO. The emulsion thus obtained had a solids content of 44% by weight and a Brookfield viscosity (25 ° C., 10 rpm) of 8,000 mPas.

Example 3 The latex obtained according to Example 1 was 3% by weight dissolved in water. A gel was obtained at pH = 5, which had a Brookfield viscosity of 102,000 mPas (25 ° C., 2 rpm). The pH was lowered to 3 by adding lactic acid, the viscosity decreasing to 83,000 mPas. Example 4. The latex obtained according to Example 2 was 3% by weight dissolved in water. A gel was obtained at pH = 5, which had a Brookfield viscosity of 98,000 mPas (25 ° C., 2 rpm). The pH was lowered to 3 by adding lactic acid, the viscosity decreasing to 83,000 mPas.

Example 5. Using the latices obtained according to Examples 1 and 2, cosmetic emulsions were produced which were compared to a conventional product of the prior art by a panel consisting of five experienced test subjects regarding the tactile properties and the speed of absorption through the skin were assessed on a scale from (1) = "very good" to (4) = "sufficient". While a rich, fresh impression was achieved with the latices according to the invention, the result with the comparative product was rather blunt. In addition, a much faster penetration was observed in the products according to the invention. The results are summarized in Table 1. Examples 1 to 4 are according to the invention, Example VI is used for comparison.

Table 1

Tactile behavior and skin absorption of emulsions (quantities as% by weight)

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic emulsions containing oil bodies, emulsifiers and polymers of the latex type, characterized in that the latices are obtained exclusively by condensation of monomers with strong acid functions and co-monomers which either have a weak acid function or react neutrally.

2. Emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain the latices in amounts of 15 to 65 wt .-%.

3. Emulsions according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they have solids contents in the range from 30 to 50% by weight.

4. A process for the preparation of cosmetic O / W emulsions containing latex-type polymers, in which

(a) firstly an aqueous phase (A) containing monomers capable of polymerization with a strong acid function (Ml) and also co-monomers (M2) which are also capable of polymerization and which are distinguished by a weak acid function, and containing an organic phase (B) Manufactures oil bodies and W / O emulsifiers,

(b) phases (A) and (B) are intimately mixed, and

(c) the monomers contained in the W / O emulsion thus obtained are polymerized in a manner known per se with phase inversion.

5. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that one uses as monomers (Ml) acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid.

6. The method according to claims 4 and / or 5, characterized in that esters and / or amides of acrylic acid are used as co-monomers (M2).

7. The method according to at least one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that oil bodies are used which are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ -Fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or

Esters of branched C ₆ -C ₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ - Fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of C ₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -Cι ₀ fatty acids, flüssi- gen mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -Cι ₈ fatty acids, esters of

C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of C ₂ -C ₂ -dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates based on

Fatty alcohols with 6 to 18 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols, linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or see aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.

8. The method according to at least one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that W / O emulsifiers are used which are selected from the group formed by addition products of 1 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide with hydroxy-functionalized triglycerides, polyglycerol esters and partial glycerides.

9. The method according to at least one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that O / W emulsifiers are added to the O / W emulsions obtained after the phase inversion.

10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that one uses O / W emulsifiers which are selected from the group formed by optionally ethoxylated partial glycerides, fatty acids, ethoxylated oleyl or cetearyl alcohols with 5 to 30 EO units and addition products from 40 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to hydroxy-substituted triglycerides.