DE10051351A1 - Cosmetic emulsions with improved tactile properties and skin take-up speed contain polymer lattices derived from strongly acidic monomers with weakly acidic or neutral comonomers - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic emulsions containing oil bodies, emulsifiers and latex type polymers. The invention is characterised in that the lattice type structures are obtained exclusively by condensating monomers with strong acid functions and co-monomers which have either a weak acid function or react neutrally.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetic emulsions and relates specifically to all emulsions containing novel latices and a process for their preparation position.

State of the art

The cosmetic chemist understands the term latex to mean colloidal dispersions of Polymers in aqueous media. Such dispersions are usually milky white Liquids that are low viscosity even with relatively high polymer contents, but in Cross-link dependency of the pH value and still very much even in strong dilution can build high viscosities. For this reason, latices, especially those based on polyacrylates, used as a thickener for cosmetic preparations.

For example, from international patent application WO 99/36445 (SEPPIC) Cosmetic emulsions known, which W / O and O / W emulsifiers and beyond Contain 20 to 60 wt .-% positive latices, which are obtained by polycondensation of linear or branched polyelectrolytes with at least one first monomer with a strong acid refunction and a second co-monomer, which is either a weak acid function exhibits or reacts neutrally. The disadvantage, however, is that the emulsions on the skin leave a dull impression and move in badly. If you put them on acid pH values, a dramatic drop in viscosity is also observed. Uner Finally, the fact is desired that the latices are caused by the process in dilute water low dispersion, so that usually part of the water has to be removed, in order to be able to market concentrated preparations.  

Accordingly, the object of the invention was to provide cosmetic O / W emulsions with a content of latices that compared to the prior art ver have better tactile properties and faster retraction and are the same Allow it to be adjusted to pH values in the range of 3 to 5 in good time without causing a combination breakdown of concentration is coming. Specifically, the preparations should be 3% by weight aqueous dilution even at a pH of 3 still a Brookfield viscosity (25 ° C, 2 rpm) of at least 80,000 mPa.s. Another task in the Be Provided a process for the preparation of the emulsions, which existed before all should be characterized by the fact that it allows preparations with a solids content to produce in the range of 30 to 50 wt .-%, without this being a distillation or another concentration step is required.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic emulsions containing oil bodies, emulsifiers and polymers of the latex type, which are distinguished by the fact that the latices are exclusively by condensing monomers with strong acid functions and co-monomers are kept, which either have a weak acid function or neutral rea yaw.

Surprisingly, it was found that emulsions containing the inventions according latices compared to products of the trade by much better tactile Characterize properties and soak into the skin much faster. The preparations the latices can be present in amounts of 15 to 65 and preferably 30 to 50% by weight on the emulsions - contain and in turn serve as consistency agents for production of cosmetic end products in which they are present in amounts of 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 5 wt .-% can be included.

manufacturing

Another object of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of cosmetic O / W emulsions containing polymers of the latex type, in which

• a) first an aqueous phase (A) containing monomers capable of polymerization with strong acid function (M1) as well as co-monomers capable of polymerization  (M2), which are characterized by a weak acid function, and an organic Phase (B), containing oil bodies and W / O emulsifiers,
• b) phases (A) and (B) are intimately mixed, and
• c) the monomers contained in the W / O emulsion thus obtained in a manner known per se Polymerized with phase inversion.

The advantage of this method is that in one step O / W emulsions with solid substance content in the desired range of 30 to 50 wt .-% can be obtained without it this requires a distillation or concentration step. Another advantage is that the emulsions can also be adjusted to acidic pH values without causing any Collapse of viscosity comes.

Monomers and Co-Monomers

Suitable monomers and co-monomers are characterized by the fact that they have structure Features that enable them to polymerize; it is preferably there at around double bonds. As monomers (M1), which are additionally characterized by a strong acid Distinguish function, come unsaturated carboxylic acids, preferably Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and mixtures thereof in question; can also be sown Tigt dicarboxylic acids such as malonic or fumaric acid are used.

Suitable co-monomers which either have a weak acid function or react neutrally are esters or amides of these carboxylic acids. Typical examples are the esters of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid with C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, allyl alcohol, the isomeric propanols, butanols and pentanols and fatty alcohols, as are caprone alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol , Isotride cyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeo stearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, erucyl alcohol, bucyl alcohol, brass. The esters are preferably derived from unsaturated alcohols, so that double bonds are available for the polymerization both in the acid component and in the alcohol component. Accordingly, esters based on allyl alcohol are particularly preferred. The amides can be derived from primary or secondary C ₁ -C ₄ amines, such as methylamine, dimethylamine, ethylamine, diethylamine, propylamine, dipropylamine and the various butylamines and dibutylamines. Also suitable are oligoamines, such as diethylene triamine, tripropylenetetramine or alkanolamines, such as. B. ethanolamine, propanolamine and the like. If primary or bifunctional amines are used, bridged amides can also result, which are also suitable for the polymerization. A typical example of this is bisacrylamide. Usually, the co-monomers are used in amounts of 5 to 100, preferably 10 to 50 and in particular 15 to 25 mol%, based on the monomers.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ - C ₁₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristy lerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat , isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, Behenylmyri stat, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate in question. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols are suitable (cf. DE 197 56 377 A1 ), especially dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / Di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, w ie. B. Dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guer betcarbonate based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon ummethicontypes, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

W / O emulsifiers

The choice of W / O emulsifiers used in the first step of the process is not critical in itself. Typical examples are addition products of 1 to 20 moles Ethylene oxide on hydroxy-functionalized triglycerides, for example, under the designation PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Dehymuls® HRE 7) are on the market. Also suitable are polyglycerol esters, such as. B. Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH) or polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI) and certain partial glycerides, such as z. B. Glyceryl Oleate (Monomuls® 90-O 18). Complex W / O are also commercially available Emulsifier mixtures, such as. B. Dicocoyl Pentaerythryl Distearyl Citrate (and) Sorbitan Ses quioleat (and) Cera Alba (and) aluminum stearate (Dehymuls® E) or Dicocoyl Pentae rythryl Distearyl Citrate (and) Cera Microcrystallina (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Aluminum Stearate (and) Propylene Glycol (Dehymuls® F). The emulsifiers mentioned are are commercial products from Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf. Regarding further ge Suitable substances are referred to the "Co-emulsifiers" chapter. The emulsifiers can be in Amounts of 1 to 20 wt .-% - based on the W / O emulsion - are used.

emulsion

The polymerization of the monomers and co-monomers takes place in a manner known per se in the emulsion instead. Usually, an aqueous one is applied to an approximately neutral one len pH set phase, which the monomers / co-monomers and stabilizers, Radi contains cold starters and the like, and an organic phase with the oil bodies and W / O emulsifiers manufactured. The aqueous phase is under strong shear of the oil phase added and the W / O emulsion produced in this way. Then the Polymerization takes place at temperatures in the range of 40 to 60 ° C, which is usually 3 takes up to 10 and preferably 4 to 5 hours. Then the polymerized Mass reacted at about 70 ° C for about 1 h.  

O / W emulsifiers

Phase inversion is a special component of the method according to the invention from water-in-oil to oil-in-water resulting from the polymerization of the monomers is called. In order to stabilize the resulting O / W emulsions, it is recommended adding an effective amount of at least one O / W emulsifier to them. Typical case games for this are optionally ethoxylated partial glycerides, such as. B. Glyceryl stearate (Cutina® GMS) or PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (Cutina® E 24), fatty acids such as palmitic and Stearic acid and its mixtures (Cutina® FS), ethoxylated oleyl or cetearyl alcohols with 5 to 30 EO units (Eumulgin® O, Eumulgin® B) or add-on products of 40 up to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to hydroxy-substituted triglycerides, such as. B. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Eumulgin® HRE 40). Mixtures such as e.g. B. Lauryl Gluco side (and) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (and) glycerin (Eumulgin® VL 75). Both the emulsifiers mentioned are commercial products from Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Dusseldorf. With regard to other suitable substances, see the chapter "Co-emulsifiers" grasslands. The emulsifiers can be used in amounts of 1 to 20% by weight, based on the O / W Emulsion can be used. In this way, emulsions are obtained, which are typically se 30 to 50 and preferably 40 to 45% by weight of active substance (= non-aqueous fractions) have and in 3 wt .-% solution at pH values in the range of 3 to 50 a visco of 80,000 to 110,000 mPa.s (Brookfield, 2 rpm, 25 ° C).

Cosmetic emulsions

The cosmetic emulsions can be, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions NEN, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aq rig / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations or ointments act. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, Co-emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, bio gene active ingredients, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, Anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosinin hibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, par for oils, dyes and the like.  

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or am photere or amphoteric surfactants are included, their proportion of the agents usually is about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. typi Examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, oils finsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sul fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfate fate, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, Mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, Amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, Fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (esp special vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anioni If surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can be conventional but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether, alkylphenol polyglycol ether, fatty acid polyglycol ester, fatty acid amide polyglycol ether, fatty amine polyglycol ether, alkoxylated triglyce ride, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, poly sorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can be a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution have lung. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as dimethyldistearylammonium chloride and esterquats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of ampho tere or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, Aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. With the surfactants mentioned han it is only known connections. In terms of structure and manufacture of these substances can be found in relevant reviews, for example, J. Falbe (ed.), "Sur factants in Consumer Products ", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, surfactants and mineral oil additives", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mil de, d. H. surfactants that are particularly compatible with the skin are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monogly cerid sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosi nates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyloli goglucoside, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.  

Co-emulsifiers

Examples of suitable co-emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, to fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms, of alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 Carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogues;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acid ren with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
• - Partial ester of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), Po polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, Sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or Hy droxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Me thylglucose and polyols, preferably glycerin or polyglycerin;
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - lanolin alcohol;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerol.

Ethylene Oxide

The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 20 24 051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are out known in the art. They are manufactured in particular by implementation of glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbons atoms. Regarding the Glycosidrestes applies that both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bound to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric Glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The Degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, one for such techni common homolog distribution is based on products.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, Hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, Oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, Linoleic acid monoglyceride, Linoleic acid diglyceride, Linolenic acid monoglyceride, Linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, Tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyceride, malic acid mono glyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which are subordinate to the manufacturing process can still contain small amounts of triglyceride. just if appropriate, adducts of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethyl lenoxid to the partial glycerides mentioned.  

sorbitan

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and sorbitan come as sorbitan esters diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, Sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquicinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, Sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, Sorbi tandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, Sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures in question. Also suitable Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide are net the sorbitan esters mentioned.

polyglycerol

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystea rate (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisoste arate (Isolan® PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), poly glyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cre mophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Di merate isostearates and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and trie optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fat acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon fatomas, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and Dicar bonic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or Se bacinsäure.  

Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 up to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic ten-side are the N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, the cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C _12/18 acylsarcosine.

Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those from Type of ester quats, preferably methyl quaternized Difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts are particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. H. solid or liquid vegetable or animal Products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes a. natural waxes such as B. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, yes pan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes,  hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as B. polyalkylene waxes and poly ethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like additives also come as additives Substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. Under the name Lecithine ver those skilled in the art are those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, Form phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore in the professional world also often as phosphatidylcholine (PC). The Ke are examples of natural lecithins called phaline, which are also called phosphatidic acids and derivatives of Represent 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, one understands Phos pholipids usually mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerin (Gly cerinphosphate), which are generally classified as fats. Besides that come too Sphingosine or sphingolipids in question.

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol coldistearat; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty al dehyde, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates totaling at least 24 carbon atoms exhibit, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid re or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon a atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols from 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl is preferred oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or Po lyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, Agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxy propyl cellulose, also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, Polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma;  Keltrol types from Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), Po lyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As particularly effective have also bentonites such. B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), in which it is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbo nat acts. Surfactants, such as ethoxylated fatty acid, are also suitable reglycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trime thylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglu coside as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

superfatting

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monogly ceride and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter being used simultaneously as Foam stabilizers are used.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is marketed under the name Polymer JR 400® by Amerchol is available, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and Acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen poly peptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lame quat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic sili conpolymers such as e.g. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyla minohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with Dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as. B. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationi cal chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline  distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkyla mines such as B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® A2-1 from Miranol.

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are se vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinylace tat / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copoly mers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido propyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methylmeth-acry lat / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyr rolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpoly siloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, gly Kosid- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds that both flow at room temperature sig as well as resinous. Simethicones, in which there are are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview suitable volatile silicones are also found by Todd et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4- Methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid säureamylester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxy propyl cinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-iso salicylic acid propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-Butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylam monium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenon-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bornylidenme thyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters, such as for example 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Especially Favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. B. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or  4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble are advantageous Chen filters such as B. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, Am monium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light is also used for this purpose protective pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. Examples of suitable Metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, Zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and their mixtures. As salts Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decoration rative cosmetics used. The particles should have an average diameter of few less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm exhibit. They can have a spherical shape, but they can also Particles are used that are ellipsoidal or otherwise of the spheri shape differ. The pigments can also be surface treated, d. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dias oxides such as B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). As a hydrophobic Coating agents come primarily from silicones and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or Simethicone in question. So-called micro- or Nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further Suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf. Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples include amino acids (e.g. glycine; histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl) , Palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. B. Buthioninsulfoxi mine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfox imine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α -Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophe non, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivative te (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inven tion suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate and tocophe rolpalmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, Ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as. B. Prunus extract, Bam to understand baranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Dement speaking deodorants contain active ingredients that act as a germ inhibitor, enzyme inhibito function, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Anti-germ agents

In principle, all are effective as anti-germ agents against gram-positive bacteria men suitable substances such. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4- Chlorphenyl) -N '- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether  (Triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3- Methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2- propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerin monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid n-decylamide.

enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. This is about it is preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The fabrics in hibernate the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other fabrics, which come into consideration as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as for example lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutaric acid, Monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, mono adipic acid ethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycar bonic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Substances which absorb odor-forming compounds are suitable as odor absorbers and can hold on to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual compos and thus reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that Perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers have no effectiveness against bacteria. For example, they contain a complex zinc as the main component salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which the Are known in the art as "fixators" such. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrances or act as odor maskers Perfume oils that, in addition to their function as odor maskers, deodorants ih re give each fragrance. Mixtures may be mentioned as perfume oils from natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs  and grasses, needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Continue to come tie raw materials, such as civet and castoreum. Typical syntheti fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, Alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. Benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyciohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalylbene zoat, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. To the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g. B. the linear Alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jo none and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeuge nol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly to the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures are preferred different fragrances, which together create an appealing fragrance witness. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as aroma components used are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melis Sen oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, Galbanum oil, Labdanum oil and Lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihy are preferred dromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedio ne, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, La vandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, Romilat, Irotyl and Floramat alone or in Mi movements, used.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency factors,  
• - auxiliaries such. B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with propylene glycol-1,2. Alumi niumhydroxyallantoinat, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries customary in antiperspirants may be present in smaller amounts. Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agent, e.g. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Po lyvinylpyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater nated chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its sal ze and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4- trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketocona zol®, 4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4- ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur Polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar distillates,  Salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide Sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonite, clay minerals and pemules can be used as swelling agents for aqueous phases serve as alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers or Swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108: 95 (1993) men.

Insect repellents

As insect repellents there are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butyl acetylaminopropionate in question.

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of Preventing melanin and finding use in depigmenting agents come, for example Wise arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in question.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that are considered here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerol;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, buty lenglycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecule lar weight from 100 to 1,000 daltons;  
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 as for example technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethy lolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, Parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and those under the name Surfacine® be knew silver complexes and those in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance led further substance classes.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. well Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), Stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, Caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, ange lica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, Rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and Twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, Myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials are also possible, as with for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are Pro products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. olfactory Compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, Lina lylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpro pionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether Aldehydes e.g. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, too  the ketones e.g. B. the Jonone, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpi neol, the hydrocarbons mainly include terpenes and balms. before However, mixtures of different odoriferous substances are used, which together form one generate an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as Aroma components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, Clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, Oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzy Lacetat, Rosenoxid, Romillat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

The flavors include, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, Küm mel oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

Suitable dyes are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes are used, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" the dye commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Che mie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are compiled. Examples are cooking ale red A (C.I. 16255), Patent Blue V (C.I. 42051), Indigotin (C.I. 73015), Chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), Quinoline Yellow (C.I. 47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.I. 77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (C.I. 69800) and Krap plack (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. This color substances are usually in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the whole mixture, used.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight. based on the mean - amount. The preparation of the agents can be done by conventional means Cold or hot processes take place; preferably one works according to the Phase inversion temperature method.  

Examples example 1

300 g of deionized water and 500 g were concentrated in a 2 l stirred vessel trated acrylic acid submitted. Then the mixture was first added dropwise up to pH 5.5 with ammonia solution and then with 0.5 g sodium EDTA and 0.8 g Bisacrylamide added. At the same time, an organic one was in another stirred vessel Phase consisting of 200 g paraffin oil (Shellsol® D100) and 15 g sorbitan oleate (SPAN® 80) manufactured. The organic phase was transferred to an Ultraturrax and over time slowly for 30 min at a stirring speed of 2500 rpm with the aqueous Phase shifted. The emulsion obtained in this way was then converted into a poly Transfer to the reactor, flushed with nitrogen (500 ml / min) for 45 min and under Addition of 2 g AIBN kept at 50 to 52 ° C for 4 h. After completion of the polymerization de the mass is heated to 70 ° C for a further hour. Then allowed to cool to 30 ° C and added 30 g castor oil + 40 E0 to the reaction product. The emulsion thus obtained had a solids content of 47% by weight and a Brookfield viscosity (25 ° C., 10 rpm) from 10,000 mPa.s.

Example 2

Analogously to Example 1, 500 g of concentrated acrylic acid, 1 g of methacrylic acid were lylester, 0.5 g EDTA sodium salt and 25 wt .-% ammonia solution combined, until a pH of 5.5 was reached. In parallel, the organic phase was prepared tet by adding 200 g of paraffin white oil and 15 g of oleic acid sorbitan ester (SPAN 80, ICI) mixed vigorously. The organic phase was placed in an Ultraturrax and add the aqueous phase within 30 min at a speed of 3,500 rpm give. The emulsion obtained in this way was then in a polymer transferred to the reactor, flushed with nitrogen (700 ml / min) for 45 min and with the addition of 2 g AIBN kept at 55 ° C for 4 h. After the completion of the polymerization, the mass became a heated to 70 ° C for another hour. Then allowed to cool to 30 ° C and offset Reaction product with 30 g castor oil + 40 E0. The emulsion thus obtained had a solid content of 44 wt .-% and a Brookfield viscosity (25 ° C, 10 rpm) of 8,000 mPa.s on.

Example 3

The latex obtained according to Example 1 was 3% by weight dissolved in water. because at a gel was obtained at pH = 5, which had a Brookfield viscosity of 102,000 mPa.s (25 ° C, 2 rpm). The pH was lowered to 3 by adding lactic acid, the viscosity decreased to 83,000 mPa.s.  

Example 4

The latex obtained according to Example 2 was 3% by weight dissolved in water. because at a gel was obtained at pH = 5, which had a Brookfield viscosity of 98,000 mPa.s (25 ° C, 2 rpm). The pH was lowered to 3 by adding lactic acid, the viscosity decreased to 83,000 mPa.s.

Example 5

Using the latices obtained according to Examples 1 and 2, kos Metic emulsions made by a panel consisting of five experienced professionals bantinnen on the tactile properties and the speed of absorption by the Skin compared to a conventional product of the prior art on a scale of (1) = "very good" until (4) = "sufficient". While with the fiction After a rich fresh impression was achieved, the result with the Comparative product rather blunt. For the rest, was in the products of the invention observed much faster penetration. The results are summarized in Table 1 summarizes. Examples 1 to 4 are according to the invention, Example V1 is used for comparison.

Table 1

Tactile behavior and skin absorption of emulsions (quantities as% by weight)

Claims (10)

1. Cosmetic emulsions containing oil bodies, emulsifiers and polymers of La text type, characterized in that the latices are obtained exclusively by condensation of monomers with strong acid functions and co-monomers which either have a weak acid function or react neutrally. 2. Emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain the latices Contain amounts of 15 to 65 wt .-%. 3. Emulsions according to claims 1 and / or 2, characterized in that they Have solids contents in the range from 30 to 50% by weight. 4. A process for the preparation of cosmetic O / W emulsions containing latex-type polymers, in which

• a) first an aqueous phase (A) containing polymerizable monomers with strong acid function (M1) and also capable of polymerizing co-monomers (M2), which are characterized by a weak acid function, and an organic phase (B), containing Manufactures oil bodies and W / O emulsifiers,
• b) phases (A) and (B) are intimately mixed, and
• c) the monomers contained in the W / O emulsion thus obtained are polymerized in a manner known per se with phase inversion.

5. The method according to claim 4, characterized in that the monomers (M1) Acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid is used. 6. The method according to claims 4 and / or 5, characterized in that uses esters and / or amides of acrylic acid as co-monomers (M2). 7. The method according to at least one of claims 4 to 6, characterized in that oil bodies are used which are selected from the group formed by Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ -Fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols , Esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid gene mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates based on Fatty alcohols with 6 to 18 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols, linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols , Silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. 8. The method according to at least one of claims 4 to 7, characterized in that that one uses W / O emulsifiers that are selected from the group that is formed is of adducts of 1 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide with hydroxyfunctional triglycerides, polyglycerol esters and partial glycerides. 9. The method according to at least one of claims 4 to 8, characterized in that that the O / W emulsions obtained after the phase inversion are O / W emulsifiers added. 10. The method according to claim 9, characterized in that O / W emulsifiers uses, which are selected from the group that is formed from if appropriate ethoxylated partial glycerides, fatty acids, ethoxylated oleyl or cetearyl alcohols with 5 to 30 EO units and addition products of 40 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide hydroxy substituted triglycerides.