WO2004009040A1

WO2004009040A1 - Skin cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: WO2004009040A1
Application number: PCT/JP2002/009553
Authority: WO
Inventors: Teruhisa Kaneko; Chihiro Kaise
Original assignee: Shu Uemura Cosmetics Inc.
Priority date: 2002-07-22
Filing date: 2002-09-18
Publication date: 2004-01-29
Also published as: JP2004051561A

Abstract

Skin cosmetic compositions characterized by containing a sphingo glycolipid and β-glucan originating in a plant (corn). Because of being excellent in barrier function and texture without adding any animal-origin components, these compositions make it possible to ensure a high safety free from any risk of bovine sponge encephalopathy caused by animal-origin components.

Description

Specification

Skin cosmetic composition technical field

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a dermatological composition comprising a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize).

Background technology

BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, skin cosmetic compositions containing various animal-derived components have been known.

For example, Brassinella extract, a water-extracted extract obtained from placenta such as humans, pests, pigs, and sheep, is one of the raw materials that has been used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields for a long time. In particular, the extract of the placenta extract obtained from the placenta is widely used as an effective component of a whitening agent in the cosmetics field.

In addition, collagen derived from cattle, pigs, and fish is incorporated into skin cosmetics as a component that has a moisture improving effect, a protective effect, and a fibroblast proliferation effect on the skin.

However, in recent years, the occurrence of so-called mad cow disease (BSE) has been reported in Japan, and consumers have been repelled by cosmetics containing ingredients derived from animals, especially sea bream. Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop skin cosmetics that have the same performance as before without blending components derived from animals, especially from Japan.

The problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a skin cosmetic composition having excellent barrier function and feel without blending any animal-derived components in order to ensure safety. . Disclosure of the invention

The present inventors have conducted intensive studies and found that a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize), which is a glycolipid, has a sugar chain and a sugar chain.] 3-Glucan is more bound by the interaction of a glucose group derived from the same. The present inventors have found that it has high resiliency and leads to improvement of the film viscosity on the surface of the liposomal monomolecular film, and has completed the present invention. That is, the present invention

(1) a skin cosmetic composition comprising a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize) and / 3-glucan,

(2) a skin cosmetic composition comprising a liposome containing a plant (corn) -derived glycosphingolipid and a] 3-glucan,

(3) A skin cosmetic composition characterized by comprising a ribosome dispersion containing glycosphingolipids derived from a plant (maize), β-glucan and deep sea water.

The glycosphingolipids derived from plants (corn) incorporated in the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention are glycosphingolipids extracted and purified from the germ of corn Zea mats Linne (Gramineae), and It contains ceramide (cellproside) and steryl glycoside.

The action of the plant (corn) -derived glycosphingolipid in the present invention can control the increase in transepidermal water loss associated with aging, and can alleviate the skin irritation. In addition, celeb mouthside contained in glycosphingolipids is an important precursor component of intercellular lipids, and is expected to improve the barrier function of the stratum corneum.

The plant-derived glycosphingolipid used in the present invention has a higher barrier compared to cosmetics prepared with ribosomes alone by setting the composition ratio of celeb mouth sided and steryl glycoside to 1: 1. It is possible to show a versatility and a high moisturizing effect can be expected. In the cosmetics of the present invention, it is preferable that powdery or solid state glycoglycolipids derived from plants (maize) are incorporated in a proportion of 0.001 to 0.1%. If the amount is less than 0.001%, the barrier function and moisturizing effect inherent to glycosphingolipids derived from plants (corn) will not be effectively exhibited, and if the amount exceeds 0.1%, discoloration will occur. It may affect stability such as unpleasant odor, which is not preferable.

In the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention, the glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize) is contained in a ribosome dispersion, and the glycosphingolipids derived from a plant (maize) is added to the ribosome dispersion. Accordingly, the cosmetic composition is preferred in view of the affinity of the active ingredient and the like with the skin. The ribosome dispersion containing a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize) in the present invention is a dispersion containing a glycosphingolipid corn and a ribosome-forming substrate simultaneously, and the ribosome preparation method is not particularly limited. Various ribosome preparation methods known up to now can be used. For example, a plant (maize) -derived glycosphingolipid and the following membrane-forming substrate may be added and subjected to ultrasonic treatment.

In this case, the optimum amount of the glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize) is preferably 0.001 to 0.01% by weight per ribosome dispersion.

Examples of the ribosome film-forming base include natural or synthetic phospholipids such as phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidic acid, lysophosphatidylcholine, sphingomyelin, egg yolk lecithin, and soybean lecithin. Cholesterols such as hydrogenated phospholipids, cholesterol, alkyl esters of cholesterol, phytosterols, alkyl esters of phytosterols, glycerol glycolipids, acylsarcosides such as cetyl galactoside, dialkyls synthetic surfactants, N-acylsulfingosine or One or more of its sulfate ester, N-acylsphingoglycolipid, and N-higher-acyl glutathione And mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention is obtained by using i3-glucan in combination with a ribosome dispersion containing the glycosphingolipid derived from the above-mentioned plant (corn).

The term "/ 3-glucan" in the present invention refers to a substance having a molecular weight of 15 to 40,000, preferably 20 to 300,000, and is a condensation polymer of D-dalcoviranose, and is composed of starch, glycogen, and cellulose. It is a j3 type polysaccharide that exists widely in nature. Also, 1 → 3, 1 → 4, 1 → 6 bonds are distinguished depending on the position of the glycosidic bond.

Examples of the substance containing / 3-glucan include yeast and yeast extract, but are not particularly limited as long as it contains j3-glucan.

In the present invention,] 3-glucan may be blended in an amount of about 0.001 to about 0.0. If the amount of β-glucan is less than 0.001%, the effect of improving the immune function unique to β-glucan will not be exhibited effectively, and if it exceeds 0.04%, stability such as discoloration and odor will be lost. There is a possibility that it may have an effect, and it is not preferable. For i3-glucan, 3-glucan may be added to a liposome dispersion containing a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize), or a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize) and / 3-glucan may be used. Ribosome dispersion.

/ 3—Glucan has a high-order structure with high molecular motility, has been reported to activate and increase the number of cells involved in immune enhancement such as T cells and the complement system, and has various biological activities. At the same time, however, little has been done on the mechanism of action at the substance and molecular levels. However, epidermal Langerhans cells play a major role in skin immunity, and have an antigen-presenting function of transmitting information to T cells when invaded from the outside.

Therefore, adding β-talcan, which is closely related to the activation of T cells, to cosmetics, unlike conventional anti-aging treatments centered on epidermis, improves the immune function of the biological system itself. It is shown. In addition, not all yeasts and yeast extracts have all the functions of these properties, so that these yeasts and yeast extracts have a deep ocean water that is highly permeable to the skin, and have an effective moisturizing and softening effect. The combination of the components, as well as those having antioxidant power, show improvement and protection of the skin immune function.

Until now, “skin aging prevention cosmetics” mainly acted on skin roughness (due to seasonal changes) and skin troubles caused by temporary deterioration of skin functions, but recently the number of sensitive skin humans has increased. For skin irritation caused by ataxia of the whole biological system, it is necessary to improve the balance of the whole biological system of the person. Therefore, the dermatological cosmetic composition containing 3-glucan of the present invention acts on the immune system and improves the balance of the biological system from inside the skin function. However, the "yeast / yeast extract" used in the present invention has been conventionally used in skin moisturizing effects and cosmetic effects, as well as in supplements and the like. It is mild.

By combining such two highly functional raw materials, glycol glycosphingolipid and 3-glucan, it is possible to develop new skin cosmetics that have excellent barrier function on the skin surface and are expected to activate immune system. It has become possible.

In addition, a polyhydric alcohol, a higher alcohol, a higher fatty acid, or the like can be added as necessary to stabilize the ribosome or improve the phase transition temperature.

Also, not all yeasts and yeast extracts have all of these properties, The combination of this yeast and yeast extract with deep sea water with high skin permeability, an active ingredient having moisturizing and softening effects, and a component having antioxidant power show improvement and protection of skin immune function. .

The deep-sea water in the present invention is a low-temperature, clean, nutrient-rich endemic water in which surface seawater has settled and formed a layer, and its intake sea area is, for example, off Cape Muroto, Kochi Prefecture. 100 to 400 m, preferably 2000 to 300 m, withdrawal depth is 250 to 500 m, preferably 300 to 4 Q 0 m .

Deep ocean water contains many minerals and has excellent moisturizing properties and excellent permeability, so when incorporated into skin cosmetic compositions, promotes penetration of active ingredients into the skin It is thought that there is a function to do.

The compounding amount of deep ocean water is 50 to 99%, preferably 50 to 90%. The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention can be, for example, a cosmetic such as a milky lotion, a cream, a lotion, a pack, a face wash, a massaging agent, a jewel, a body cosmetic or a quasi-drug. The preparation of these cosmetics may be carried out according to a conventional method. Further, the dosage form of the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is arbitrary, and for example, a solubilized emulsifying dosage form or a dispersing agent dosage form can be employed.

In addition to the above essential ingredients, the following ingredients that are blended into ordinary cosmetics, such as oils, charcoal, hydrides, waxes, fatty acids, synthetic esters, alcohols, powders, surfactants, thickeners Agents, moisturizers, preservatives, fragrances, pigments, drugs, water, lower alcohols, polymer compounds, gelling agents, antioxidants, cosmetic ingredients, etc., as appropriate and used within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention. Can be done.

Examples of oils and fats include jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, soybean oil, coconut oil, palm oil, cocoa oil, mink oil, turtle oil and the like.

Examples of the hydrocarbons include liquid paraffin, vaseline, microcrystalline plex, squalane and the like.

Examples of waxes include beeswax, lanolin, carnapalow, candelillaro and the like.

Fatty acids include, for example, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, Examples include isostearic acid and lauric acid.

Synthetic esters include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl oleate, myristyl myristate, octyl dodecyl myristate, propylene glycol monostearate, myristyl lactate, isostearyl malate, glyceryl monostearate, distearyl chloride Dimethylammonium salt and the like can be mentioned.

Examples of the alcohols include ethanol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propylene daricol, lauryl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol. These alcohols can be combined usually at a ratio of 0 to 25 w / wt%.

Examples of the surfactant include glycerin fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide, Polyoxyethylene hard castor oil, sodium laurylsulfate, polyoxyethylene glyceryl pyroglutamate disoostearate, sodium alkyl benzene sulfonate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, dialkyl sulfosuccinic acid, cetyl pyridinium bromide, chloride—N— Octadecyltrimethylammonium, monoalkyl phosphate, N-acylglutamine, N-acylglutamine, sucrose fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene solpitan monostearate , Polyoxyethylene lauryl ether sulfate sodium © beam, polyoxyethylene reduced lanolin and the like. These surfactants can be usually added at a ratio of 0 to 10 w / w%.

Examples of the thickener include lipoxyvinyl polymer, methylpolysiloxane, dextran, carboxymethylcellulose, carrageenan, and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. These thickeners can be usually added at a ratio of 0 to 25 w / w%.

Examples of the humectant include glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pyroglutamic acid, acetyl glutamic acid, hyaluronic acid, procyanidin and the like. These humectants are usually blended in a ratio of 0 to 5. Examples of the preservative include benzoic acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid at the mouth of the aldehyde or salts thereof, phenols of paraoxybenzoic acid esters, and triclosan halocarban. Usually, these preservatives can be blended in a ratio of 0 to 0.3 w / w%.

As the fragrance, any fragrance may be used as long as it is generally used for cosmetics. Examples of the pigment include iron oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, kaolin, and talc. These pigments can be usually added at a ratio of 0 to 5 w / w%.

Drugs include, for example, wheat germ oil, vitamin A, vitamin B2, vitamin E, magnesium or sodium ascorbate monophosphate, sodium, D-pantotail alcohol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, daryuthione, UV-absorption Agents, chelating agents, plant extracts, microbial metabolites Z extracts, and the like. These drugs can be usually added at a ratio of 0 to 5.

Examples of water include tap water, mineral water, brine, seawater, ultrapure water, water derived from polar ice, mineral water, purified water, and the like. These waters can be mixed in any ratio. BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples.

Example 1 (Membrane physical property test of ribosome aqueous solution containing plant-derived glycosphingolipid) Using a liposome aqueous solution containing a plant (maize) -derived sphingoglycolipid and 6-glucan on a liposome monomolecular membrane The effect was examined by microscopic measurement of a bilayer membrane.

Ribosomes composed of ribosomes containing 0.05% glycosphingolipids derived from plants (maize) and 0.03% of 3-glucan and soy lecithin (concentration: 1.0%), and surfactant ribosomes (detergent: DDAB concentration 1 (0.0%), and the microscopic viscosity of each liposomal monolayer was measured by measuring the degree of fluorescence polarization using these solutions and measuring the degree of fluorescence polarization. . The results are shown in Table 1. table 1

As is evident from the results shown in Table 1, the glycosphingolipids derived from plants (maize) and β-glucan were compared with the membrane viscosity of the ribosome bilayer formed of surfactant and lecithin (soybean). It was found that the membrane viscosity of the bilayer membrane of the aqueous liposome solution (corn shingolipid complex) contained was higher, indicating that the ribosome was a ribosome with a stronger membrane than the liposome composed of lecithin. .

Example 2 (Radical scavenging effect test with cream)

A cream containing a plant (maize) -derived glycosphingolipid (hereinafter, abbreviated as “corn sphingoglycolipid”), a yeast extract (a glucan), and marine deep water was applied to the arm of 10 subjects, The radical force effect was evaluated.

(Prescription example)

(W I W)

Yeast extract (] 3-glucan) 0.3

Corn fingo glycolipid each concentration

Deep sea water (filtered by reverse osmosis membrane) 50.0

Jojoba oil 10.0

Phospholipid 0.5

Glycerin fatty acid ester 2.0

Higher alcohol 3.0

Polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester 0.5 Lipoxyvinyl polymer 0.0 5

Glycerin 7.0

1,3-butylene glycol 7.0

L-Arginine 0.1

Moisturizer (betaine) 0.5

Preservative (benzoic acid ester) 0.5

Adjust the total amount of purified water to 100

The production method was cream according to a standard method.

The deep-sea water (reverse osmosis membrane-filtered) used here is water obtained by treating the deep seawater raw water by reverse osmosis membrane filtration.

After the cream (bulk) 2 g created and applied to the upper arm according to a conventional method, the epidermis was collected and measured to generate hydroxyl radicals in vitro, the degradation of ¾0 ₂ to Fe ²⁺ as a catalyst by using the skin Was done. The results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Radical glycolipid concentration (%)

0 0.001 0.01

Hydroxyl radical (H0

Suppression rate (%)

1 day later 5 10 20

1 week later 10 20 40

Three weeks later 15 40 80 As is evident from the results shown in Table 2, the use of a liposomal aqueous solution containing corn sphingoglycolipids resulted in a shorter period of time compared to the conventional liposomal aqueous solution alone. It was found to have an oxidizing effect.

Example 3 (Test for effect of wrinkle by cream)

Yeast extract (3-glucan), corn sphingoglycolipid (concentrated) of the formulation shown in Example 2 (Degree: 0.01%), and a cream containing deep sea water was applied to the faces of 10 subjects, and the effect of wrinkle improvement was evaluated by visual inspection and image analysis.

(Evaluation method)

The cream prepared according to the conventional method was applied to the faces of the test subjects, and two evaluators individually evaluated the mouth and the area around the eyes of 20 patients using the packman SFL rating system. In addition, a silicone replica of the skin surface of 30 subjects was created, 10 of which were randomly selected, and the effect of wrinkle improvement was evaluated by image analysis. The results are shown in Table 3. Table 3 Time (week) Visual effects Image analysis

(Improvement rate%)

0 0 0

2 30 20

4 50 50

6 80 80 As is evident from the results shown in Table 3, the ribosome dispersion containing only 3-glucan was effective in about 4 weeks. It was found that the use of the liposome-containing liposome dispersion resulted in an improvement effect in a shorter time, and that the effect was persistent. Industrial applicability

According to the present invention, a lipid membrane having a structure similar to the intercellular lipid is formed on the skin by including glycosphingolipids derived from plants (maize) and β-glucan in the cosmetic. In addition, it is possible to release / 3-glucan encapsulated in liposomes similar to intercellular lipids. As a result, it is possible to provide a cosmetic having an enhanced feel and an excellent feel, which has a higher barrier effect and a continuous moisturizing effect as compared with conventionally used moisturizing and moisturizing components (urea, glycerin, etc.). .

Since no animal-derived ingredients are used, it is possible to provide skin cosmetics free from BSE.

In addition, since glycosphingolipids derived from plants (corn) have a structure similar to lipids present in the skin, it is possible to provide cosmetics with high safety for the skin.

Claims

The scope of the claims

(1) A skin cosmetic composition comprising a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize) and / 3-glucan.

(2) A skin cosmetic composition comprising a liposome containing a plant (corn) -derived glycosphingolipid and / 3-glucan.

(3) A skin cosmetic composition comprising a ribosome dispersion containing a glycosphingolipid derived from a plant (maize), β-glucan and deep sea water.