WO2003105791A1

WO2003105791A1 - Use of astaxanthin

Info

Publication number: WO2003105791A1
Application number: PCT/EP2003/005969
Authority: WO
Inventors: Wolf Eisfeld; Annette Mehling
Original assignee: Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg.
Priority date: 2002-06-15
Filing date: 2003-06-06
Publication date: 2003-12-24
Also published as: DE10226700A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of astaxanthin for producing agents against hair loss, for strengthening hair, for improving the properties of hair, for stimulating hair growth, for preventing the melanocytes from oxidative damage and thus preventing hair from going gray. The invention also relates to preparations that contain astaxanthin and hair dyes or astaxanthin and α tocopherol. The astaxanthin used preferably originates from marine sources and is present in the formulations in encapsulated form.

Description

Use of astaxanthin

The invention is in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. It relates to the use of astaxanthin, which is obtained primarily from algae, for the preparation of agents which are used against hair loss, for strengthening the hair and for protection against UV light and against graying of the hair.

State of the art

Astaxanthin is a carotenoid obtained from microalgae, which has become known in recent years due to the fact that it has been used increasingly in aquaculture to color the fish meat of trout and salmon. This carotenoid has numerous other areas of application, for example it is used as a radical scavenger, hormone precursor, growth promoter, photoprotector or immunostimulant. In addition, one of its most important functions is that of an antioxidant, because it has a 10-fold stronger antioxidative capacity than other carotenoids, for example ß-carotene.

95% of the astaxanthine currently on the market comes from synthetic production. Since the demand for natural products and their use in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations is constantly growing, astaxanthin has recently been obtained from marine origin, with the microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis being the natural source with the highest astaxanthin content.

The medical use of astaxanthin includes use for the treatment of benign prostate hyperplasia (BPH) and prostate cancer, which takes place via an inhibition of the enzyme 5α-reductase by the carotenoid - as disclosed in US Pat. No. 6,277,417 B1. The use of astaxanthin is already known in cosmetic preparations. For example, European Patent EP 0 748 625 B1 describes cosmetic or dermatological preparations with photo-convertible carotenoids such as astaxanthin which, after controlled release, lead to the conversion and increased content of retinol and retinoic acid. In the international patent application WO 99/13855, formulations with extracts of Haematococcus pluvialis for the treatment of rough, dry skin were disclosed. The preparations can also be used for anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, anti-radical and anti-dandruff treatment. Antioxidants such as tocopherol and carotenoids are known to be used in hair cosmetics - as described in German patent application DE 4139921 A1 - they act against the graying of human hair.

Cosmetic preparations are available to the consumer in a variety of combinations today. Nevertheless, there is a need in the market for products with an improved range of services. Skin compatibility and the use of natural products by the customer are required here. For the manufacture of products that allow a multitude of applications at the same time, there has been the problem that a large number of active ingredients have to be added to their preparations, which together produce the desired profile of requirements, without interfering with one another or even producing undesirable side effects , Accordingly, there is a particular interest in care products that combine the desired properties. In addition, it is desirable to find significantly better products by finding new areas of use for already known substance classes. Extracts of renewable raw materials and their ingredients are used more and more frequently in cosmetics.

The object of the present patent application was to provide active ingredients from renewable raw materials for cosmetic and / or dermatological use, which are accessible in large quantities and which are versatile as care products in the most varied areas of cosmetics, pharmacy and / or Enable dermatology.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to the use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents against hair loss, for strengthening the hair to improve properties of the hair shaft, for stimulating hair growth, for protecting against oxidative damage to melanocytes and against graying of the hair, and for preparations with astaxanthin and hair dyes and preparations with astaxanthin and vitamin E.

Surprisingly, it was found that astaxanthin has an outstanding activity against hair loss, in particular in the case of androgenic alopecia, by inhibiting 5-α-reductase. When this type of disease occurs, however, stimulation of hair growth and strengthening of the hair and hair shaft can also be observed in healthy hair. Preparations against exposure to UV light or to build up the hair offer protection and care for the hair and scalp, which can be attributed, among other things, to the good antioxidative and photoprotective properties of astaxanthine. In addition, the coloring properties of astaxanthin can be exploited very well. The hair-damaging properties of hair dyes are balanced by the protective and nourishing effects of small amounts of astaxanthin.

Due to the inhibitory effect on 5-α-reductase, the use of astaxanthin for the preparation of preparations for the treatment of acne vulgaris, seborrhea and hirsutism is also advantageous.

The amount of ROS (reactive oxygen species) is increased by the influence of UV light or oxidative stress. ROS damage melanocytes that are present in the skin and hair. It was therefore found that astaxanthin also has a protective effect on melanocytes due to its antioxidant effect and can therefore be used to delay graying of the hair.

Astaxanthin, astaxanthin derivatives, astaxanthin-containing extracts from algae or animal starting materials can be used in the form of topical or oral preparations.

In the preparations, the effect of astaxanthine can be enhanced in a synergistic manner by adding further active ingredients. It has proven to be particularly advantageous if astaxanthin has additionally been combined with a further antioxidant, in particular α-tocopherol (vitamin E) or its derivatives, preferably the esters of α-tocopherol, with long-chain fatty acids.

A particularly intensive and long-lasting color is achieved in the combination of astaxanthin and other hair dyes in coloring hair care products. The agents are particularly well tolerated, particularly as regards the damage to the hair which is often observed with hair dyes.

astaxanthin

Preferably, but not exclusively, the astaxanthin used according to the invention is obtained from algae, Haematococcus pluvialis serving as the main source for the production from marine origin.

Of course, it is also possible to use synthetically produced astaxanthin and derivatives of astaxanthin, in particular the esters.

Astaxanthin is used in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 8% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight - as pure astaxanthin - based on the overall preparation. Astaxanthin is preferably used in encapsulated form, particularly preferably as microcapsules.

In pharmaceutical preparations for oral administration, astaxanthin, its derivatives, esters and extracts with astaxanthin are preferably dissolved in soft gelatin capsules or dispersed in natural oils, preferably olive oil, safflower oil or semi-synthetic oils such as MCT oils (Miglyol®), and also in formulations with modified release, preferably sustained release formulations. A daily dose of 0.1 to 5 mg, preferably 0.5 to 3 mg and particularly preferably 1 to 2 mg of pure astaxanthin is recommended.

microcapsules

The preparations according to the invention can either be applied topically or via an oral intake. Encapsulating the preparations has proven useful for both purposes. When applied directly to the skin, the active ingredient is released by mechanical action on the membrane during application, while in the case of oral administration there is a delayed release either through the pores of the membrane or through its gradual dissolution.

The term “microcapsule” is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean spherical aggregates with a diameter in the range from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5 mm, which contain at least one solid or liquid core which is enclosed by at least one continuous shell. I agree- he said it concerns finely dispersed liquid or solid phases coated with film-forming polymers, in the production of which the polymers are deposited on the material to be encased after emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization. According to another process, melted waxes are taken up in a matrix (“microsponge”), which as microparticles can additionally be coated with film-forming polymers. The microscopic capsules can be dried like powders. In addition to mononuclear microcapsules, there are also multinuclear aggregates, also called microspheres. Known, which contain two or more cores distributed in the continuous shell material. Single or multi-core microcapsules can also be enclosed by an additional second, third, etc. The shell can consist of natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic materials. Of course, shell materials are, for example, gum arabic , Agar-agar, agarose, maltodextrins, alginic acid or its salts, for example sodium or calcium alginate, fats and fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithins, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides, such as starch or dextran, polypeptides, protein hydrolysed sate, sucrose and wax e.Semi-synthetic wrapping materials include chemically modified celluloses, in particular cellulose esters and ethers, e.g. cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylceilulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, as well as starch derivatives, especially starch ethers and esters. Synthetic covering materials are, for example, polymers such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

Examples of microcapsules of the prior art are the following commercial products (the shell material in each case is given in brackets): Hallcrest microcapsules (gelatin, gum arabic), Coletica Thalaspheres (maritime collagen), Lipoiec millicapsules (alginic acid, agar agar), Induchem Unispheres (Lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylceilulose); Unicerin C30 (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylceilulose), Kobo Glycospheres (modified starch, fatty acid esters, phospholipids), Softspheres (modified agar agar), Kuhs Probiol Nanospheres (phospholipids) as well as Primaspheres and Primasponges (Chitosan), Alginate Phosphate ,

The use of chitosan and chitosan derivatives in the form of chitosan microspheres or microcapsules is well known.

For the purposes of the present invention, the protection also extends to encapsulated preparations, in particular to microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an enveloping membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, which can be obtained by

(i) preparing a matrix from gel formers, chitosans and components (a) and (b), (ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase, (iii) the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers and, if necessary, the oil phase is removed.

In an alternative embodiment, microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an envelope membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, which can be obtained by:

(i) a matrix is prepared from gel formers, anionic polymers and components (a) and (b),

(ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,

(iii) the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous chitosan solutions and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process.

The microcapsules according to the invention have the particular advantage that they have high stability with respect to surfactants and can thus also be incorporated stably into cosmetic preparations without being dissolved during storage. The advantage of oral intake is that it is well tolerated by the mucous membrane and completely toxicologically safe.

Analogously, further embodiments of the invention also relate to two processes for producing microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an envelope membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, in which either

(i) preparing a matrix from gel formers, chitosans and components (a) and (b), (ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,

(iii) the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process.

or

(ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,

(iii) the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous chitosan solutions and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process. gelling agent

For the purposes of the invention, those substances which have the property of forming gels in aqueous solution at temperatures above 40 ° C. are preferably considered as gel formers. Typical examples are heteropolysaccharides and proteins. Suitable thermogelling heteropolysaccharides are preferably agaroses, which can also be present in the form of the agar agar to be obtained from red algae together with up to 30% by weight of non-gel-forming agar pectins. The main constituent of the agaroses are linear polysaccharides from D-galactose and 3,6-anhydro-L-galactose, which are linked alternately ß-1, 3- and ß-1, 4-glycosidically. The heteropolysaccharides preferably have a molecular weight in the range from 110,000 to 160,000 and are both colorless and tasteless. Alternatives are pectins, xanthans (also xanthan gum) and their mixtures. Preference is furthermore given to those types which still form gels in 1% by weight aqueous solution, which do not melt below 80 ° C. and solidify again above 40 ° C. The various types of gelatin from the group of thermogelating proteins are examples.

chitosan

Chitosans are biopolymers and belong to the group of hydrocolloids. From a chemical point of view, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights that contain the following - idealized - monomer unit:

In contrast to most hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged in the range of biological pH values, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions. The positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products and pharmaceuticals Preparations used. The production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available in large quantities as cheap raw materials. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by adding bases, demineralized by adding mineral acids and finally deacetylated by adding strong bases, it being possible for the molecular weights to be distributed over a broad spectrum. Those types are preferably used which have an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 500,000 or 800,000 to 1,200,000 Daltons and / or a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of Have 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%. For reasons of better water solubility, the chitosans are generally used in the form of their salts, preferably as glycolates.

oil phase

The matrix can optionally be dispersed in an oil phase before the membrane is formed. Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids with linear C6 come as oils for this purpose, for example -C22- fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, My- ristyloleat, rat Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostea-, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearyli- sostearat, stearyl oleate , stearyl, sostearylstearat Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl, I, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, Oleylmy- ristat, myristate oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl, behenyl, behenyl, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl , Behenyleruc at, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols ( such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on Cδ-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on Cε-Ciδ fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched Cδ-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or ver branched C6-C22 alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes ,

anionic polymers

The task of the anionic polymers is to form membranes with the chitosans. Salts of alginic acid are preferably suitable for this purpose. Alginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides with the following idealized monomer unit:

The average molecular weight of the alginic acids or alginates is in the range from 150,000 to 250,000. Salts of alginic acid are to be understood to mean both their complete and their partial neutralization products, in particular the alkali metal salts and among them preferably the sodium alginate (“algin”) and the ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts, mixed alginates such as sodium / magnesium or sodium being particularly preferred In an alternative embodiment of the invention, however, anionic chitosan derivatives, such as carboxylation and, in particular, succinylation products are also suitable for this purpose, or alternatively poly (meth) acrylates with average molecular weights in the range from 5,000 to 50,000 daltons and the various In place of the anionic polymers, anionic surfactants or low molecular weight inorganic salts, such as pyrophosphates, can also be used to form the envelope membrane. Manufacturing process microcapsules

To produce the microcapsules, a 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 5% by weight aqueous solution of the gel former, preferably the agar, is usually prepared and heated under reflux. At boiling point, preferably at 80 to 100 ° C, a second aqueous solution is added, which contains the chitosan in amounts of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.25 to 0.5% by weight and the active ingredient (components a and b) in amounts of 0.1 to 25 and in particular 0.25 to 10% by weight; this mixture is called the matrix. The loading of the microcapsules with active ingredients can therefore also be 0.1 to 25% by weight, based on the capsule weight. If desired, water-insoluble constituents, for example inorganic pigments, can also be added at this point in time to adjust the viscosity, these generally being added in the form of aqueous or aqueous / alcoholic dispersions. To emulsify or disperse the active ingredients, it may also be useful to add emulsifiers and / or solubilizers to the matrix. After the matrix has been prepared from the gel former, chitosan and active ingredient mixture (components a and b), the matrix can optionally be very finely dispersed in an oil phase under high shear in order to produce particles as small as possible in the subsequent encapsulation. It has proven particularly advantageous to heat the matrix to temperatures in the range from 40 to 60 ° C. while the oil phase is cooled to 10 to 20 ° C. In the last step, which is now mandatory again, the actual encapsulation then takes place, ie the formation of the envelope membrane by bringing the chitosan in the matrix into contact with the anionic polymers. For this purpose, it is advisable to optionally disperse the matrix in the oil phase at a temperature in the range from 40 to 100, preferably 50 to 60 ° C. with an aqueous, about 1 to 50 and preferably 10 to 15% by weight aqueous solution of the anion polymer to treat and - if necessary - to remove the oil phase at the same time or subsequently. The resulting aqueous preparations generally have a microcapsule content in the range from 1 to 10% by weight. In some cases it can be advantageous if the solution of the polymers contains further ingredients, for example emulsifiers or preservatives. After filtration, microcapsules are obtained which have an average diameter in the range of preferably about 1 mm. It is advisable to sieve the capsules to ensure that the size is distributed as evenly as possible. The microcapsules thus obtained can have any shape in the production-related framework, but they are preferably approximately spherical. Alternatively, the anion polymers can also be used to produce the matrix and encapsulated with the chitosans. Pro-liposomes

Instead of the described microcapsules, pro-liposomes can also be used as carriers for the active ingredient mixtures. To clarify the term, it should be noted that the pro-liposomes do not contain water and only absorb this with the formation of real liposomes if they are introduced into an aqueous environment. Another object of the invention therefore relates to pro-liposomally encapsulated antioxidant mixtures which have components (a) and (b) and which are obtained by treating the mixtures in cosmetically acceptable solvents with lecithins and / or phospholipids.

The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).

A lecithin is shown schematically in the above formula, where R typically stands for linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds. Examples of natural lecithins that can be encapsulated include the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids can also be used for liposomal encapsulation. The use of lecithins or phospholipids for the production of liposomes can be found in the relevant literature.

Pro liposome manufacturing process

The next object of the invention is directed analogously to a process for the preparation of pro-liposomally encapsulated antioxidant mixtures which have components (a) and (b) and which are obtained by mixing the mixtures in cosmetically acceptable solvents with lecithins and / or Phospholipids treated. For this purpose, the active ingredient mixtures are usually se either in a solvent and brought into contact with the lecithins or phospholipids at temperatures in the range from 30 to 70 ° C, or the anhydrous mixtures are stirred into a solution of the lecithins or phospholipids. The active ingredients and the lecithins and / or phospholipids can be used in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 5: 1, preferably 1: 2 to 4: 1. Suitable solvents are preferably lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or polyols, which generally have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups; propylene glycol is preferred here.

Industrial applicability

Formulations which remain on the hair or scalp for a long time or which frequently contain aggressive chemicals are particularly suitable for the development of the effectiveness. These include hair treatments, hair packs, hair lotions, hair gels, hair colors, bleaching agents, permanent waving agents, sun and after-sun products for hair. The agents are also particularly suitable for long-term use with a prophylactic effect.

In a common embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the preparations are in one

Composition of:

0.001 to 10% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.01 to 3% by weight of tocopherol, based on the total preparation, preferably contain them

0.05 to 8% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.03 to 2% by weight of tocopherol based on the total preparation and particularly preferred

0.1 to 5% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.05 to 1% by weight of tocopherol, based on the total preparation.

The preparations according to the invention have a composition of: 0.001 to 10% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.01 to 8% by weight of hair dyes, based on the overall preparation, preferably as hair colorants

0.05 to 8% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.05 to 5% by weight of hair dyes based on the overall preparation and particularly preferred

0.1 to 5% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.1 to 3% by weight of hair dyes based on the overall preparation. hair dyes

To dye keratin fibers, preferably human hair, either so-called direct dyes or oxidation dyes are usually used. The latter consist of a developer (oxidation base) and a coupler component (shader) and are not dyes in the actual sense, but dye precursors.

Oxidation bases are aromatic compounds which are nucleus-substituted with at least two electron-donating groups (amino and / or hydroxyl groups). For example, primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof are used. Special representatives are u. a. p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4- amino-pyrazolone-5 and 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,4-aminobenzene and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine.

As a rule, shaders are also aromatic compounds, but with groups which are easily oxidizable on the ring in the m position. As components, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols and pyridine derivatives are generally available. Suitable coupler substances are in particular 1-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1 -Phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3 - aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine and 2,6-diaminopyridine.

Suitable direct dyes are, for example, dyes from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Picramic Acid and Rodol 9 R known compounds and 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, (N-2,3-dihydroxypropyl-2-nitro-4-trifluoromethyl) - aminobenzene and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride. In addition to synthetic dyes, naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, sapwood, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre, alkanna root, curcumin, hematoxylin, and autin are used. The natural dyes cannot be clearly assigned to the two groups, but in the most common cases fall into the group of direct dyes.

In addition to dye mixtures within the groups, mixtures of dyes from different groups can also be used. With regard to other dye components, reference is expressly made to the Colipa list, published by the Industry Association for Personal Care and Detergents, Frankfurt.

Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

Astaxanthin can - as already partially enumerated above with the agents with a longer duration of action - for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, stick preparations, powders, Ointments, tablets, dragees, capsules, juices, solutions and granules are used. These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, additional UV light protection factors, additional antioxidants, Contain anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be contained as surface-active substances. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates (fatty ether ether sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, fatty ether ether sulfates, hydroxyl ether sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfates, hydroxyl ether sulfates, hydroxyl ether sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfates, fatty ether ether sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfates, hydroxyl ether sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfates, hydroxymether ether sulfates, hydroxymether sulfates, sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates Acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially vegetable products based on wheat) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of non-ionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, especially nucylglycolic acid derivatives (N-fatty acid silicate acid derivatives) Wheat-based products), polyolf esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyidistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, alkyl fatty amide amides, amide carboxylic acid amide carbamides, fatty carboxamides, or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols or esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22-fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, Ce tylstearat, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate , Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, Behenylbehen at, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C6-C22- Fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of Ci8-C38-alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22-fatty alcohols, especially dioctylmate, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol , Dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on CΘ-Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids , in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 -Fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiöl® CC), Guer _^ betcarbonate based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 1 8, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

Examples of suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

> Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the Alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;

> Addition products of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; Addition products of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; > Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and poly (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;

> Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.

> Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;

> Wool wax alcohols;

> Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

> Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;

> Polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;

> Polyalkylene glycols as well

> Glycerine carbonate.

> Ethylene oxide addition products

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

> Alkyl and / or alkenyl olefin glycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are manufactured in particular by converting glu cose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside residue, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products,

> Partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinsäurediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, linoleic acid monoglyceride, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglyce- chloride, Citronensäuremonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, Äpfelsäuremonoglycerid, Malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the partial glycerides mentioned are also suitable.

> Sorbitan esters

As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrieru- cat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, sorting bitantrihydroxystearat , Sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui-tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan technical sorbitan and sorbitan dittrate. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable. polyglycerol

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearyl-3 diisostearates (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -car- boxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cδ / is-alkyl or acyl group, have at least one free amino group in the molecule and at least one contain a -COOH or -Sθ3H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each have about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethylamino propionate and Ci2 / ιs acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized di-fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The skilled worker understands the term lecithins to mean those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

Pearlescent waxes ^'

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carbon acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency and thickening agents

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (eg Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as e.g. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) has been proven, which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryl-dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as well as their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitinite crystals such as, for example, quaternized chitin derivatives such as, Condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their polyols, and non-crosslinked polyacrylate and their esters, non-crosslinked acrylate - Trimethylarnmonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methylmethacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and silicate / vinylpolymers as well as derivatives / vinylpolymers as well as derivatives / vinylpolymers as well , silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature. Simethicones, which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

The additional UV light protection factors to be added are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:

> 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

> 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;

> Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);

> Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;

> Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

> Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;

> Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);

> Propane-1,3-dione, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

> Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

Possible water-soluble substances are: > 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

> Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as e.g. 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or which differ in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples of this are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives,. Imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids , Nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α -Hydroxy fatty acids, Pa lmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid ), Folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A-palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakh resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutomate and derivate, superficial derivatives and their derivatives, urea and derivatives of superficial acid and its derivatives, urea and derivatives of superficial acid and its derivatives, superficial and synthetic derivatives, its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnS0) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives ate (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances which are suitable according to the invention.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-essential oils, amide acids To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-H yd roxy-4-methyl-6- (2, 4, 4-tri my thyipentyl) -2- (1 H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-Acety I- 1 - {-4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1 H -imidazol-1-ylmethyl]) - 1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, Ketoconazole, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyglycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinolexylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid, undosulfonate, zinc salt Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.

Hvdrotrope

Hydrotropes, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can NEN still contain other functional groups, especially amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

> Glycerin; ,

> Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;

> technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;

> Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

> Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

> Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

> Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

> Aminosugars such as glucamine;

> Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (Be.rgamotte, Lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. typical Synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert. -B u tylcy cio hexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones, α-isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols ethanol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance. Essential oils of low volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labola oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citro-nello phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin alcohol, allyl glycolate, orangelol glycol oil are preferred , Lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, ß-damascone, geraniumol bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, vertofix coeur, iso-e-super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

For example, peppermint oil comes as flavors. Spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Kochillerot A (Cl 16255), Patent Blue V (C.1.42051), Indigotine (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (Cl 69800) and Madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. example recipes

Table 1: Leave-on hair tonic (amounts in% by weight)

Quantity of "astaxanthin encapsulated" corresponds to the amount of the pure active substance astaxanthin

Claims

claims

1. Use of astaxanthin for the preparation of hair loss remedies.

2. Use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents for strengthening the hair and improving the properties of the hair.

3. Use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents for stimulating hair growth.

4. Use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents for protecting the hair from exposure to UV light.

5. Use of astaxanthin in hair dyes.

6.. Use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents for protection against oxidative damage to melanocytes.

7. Use of astaxanthin for the manufacture of anti-graying agents.

8. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that astaxanthin is obtained from algae.

9. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the astaxanthin is used in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the composition.

10. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that astaxanthin is used in encapsulated form.

11. Hair care composition containing a) astaxanthin and b) at least one hair dye.

12. Preparations containing a) astaxanthin and b) α-tocopherol or α-tocopherol derivatives