DE10226700A1 - Use of astaxathine - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of astaxanthin is proposed for the preparation of agents for hair loss, for strengthening the hair and improving the properties of the hair and for stimulating hair growth, as well as preparations with astaxanthin and hair dyes and astaxanthin and alpha-tocopherol. The astaxanthin used preferably originates from marine sources and is present in the formulations in encapsulated form.

Description

The invention is based on the Field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. she concerns the use of astaxanthin, which is primarily from algae is obtained for the production of agents that are effective against hair loss, for strengthening of the hair as well as for protection against UV light.

State of the art

Astaxanthin is a carotenoid that is obtained from microalgae, which has been known in recent years become increasingly popular in aquaculture for coloring the Fish meat from trout and salmon was used. This Carotenoid has numerous other uses, so it gets under other than radical scavenger, Hormone precursor, Wachtumsförderer, Photoprotector or immunostimulant used. Next to it is one its main functions as an antioxidant because it has one 10 times stronger antioxidant capacity than other carotenoids, e.g. β-carotene.

95% of the currently used on the market Astaxanthins comes from synthetic production. As the demand after natural Products and their use in food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic preparations has been growing steadily lately Astaxanthin increasingly obtained from marine origin, the microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis the natural Source represents the highest Contains astaxanthin content.

The medical use of astaxanthin includes use for the treatment of benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH) and prostate cancer, which takes place via an inhibition of the enzyme 5α-reductase by the carotenoid - as disclosed in the US patent US 6 277 417 B1 ,

The use of astaxanthin is also already known in cosmetic preparations. So in the European patent EP 0 748 625 B1 cosmetic or dermatological preparations with photo - convertible carotenoids such as astaxanthin which, after controlled release, lead to the conversion and increased content of retinol and retinoic acid. In the international patent application WO 99/13855, formulations with extracts of Haematococcus pluvialis for the treatment of rough, dry skin were disclosed. The preparations can also be used for anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, anti-radical and anti-dandruff treatment.

Antioxidants such as tocopherol and carotenoids are known to be used in hair cosmetics - as in the German patent application DE 4139921 A1 described - they work against the graying of human hair.

Cosmetic preparations are available available to consumers in a variety of combinations today. Yet there is a need in the market for products with an improved range of services. in this connection are tolerated by the skin as well as the use of natural Products asked by the customer. For the production of products that are a variety of So far, applications allow the problem that their preparations a big Number of active ingredients must be added, which together meet the desired requirement profile result without disturbing each other or even undesirable side effects to create. Accordingly, there is a special interest in Care products that the desired Unite properties. It is also desirable by finding new areas of use of already known substance classes to get significantly better products. Especially extracts from renewable Raw materials and their ingredients are increasingly used in cosmetics.

The object of the present patent application has consisted of active ingredients from renewable raw materials for the cosmetic and / or to provide dermatological application in large quantities accessible and are a versatile application as a care product in the various areas of cosmetics, pharmacy and / or dermatology enable.

description the invention

The invention relates to Use of astaxanthin for the manufacture of anti-hair loss products, for strengthening of the hair and improvement of the hair shaft properties, for stimulation of hair growth and for protection against UV light effects, as well Preparations with astaxanthin and hair dyes and preparations with astaxanthin and vitamin E.

Surprisingly it was found that astaxanthin inhibits S-α-reductase excellent effectiveness against hair loss, especially with androgenic Alopecia. It is also when this occurs Disease form, however, also a stimulation of the healthy hair Hair growth and strengthening of the hair and hair shaft.

Preparations against exposure to UV light or to build up the hair offer protection and care for the hair and scalp, which, among other things, are based on the good antioxidative and photoprotective properties of the Astaxanthins are due. In addition, the coloring properties of astaxanthin can be exploited very well. The hair-damaging properties of hair dyes are balanced by the protective and nourishing effects of small amounts of astaxanthin.

Due to the inhibitory effect to the 5-α-reductase is also the use of astaxanthin for the preparation of preparations beneficial for the treatment of acne vulgaris, seborrhea and hirsutism.

The use of astaxanthin, astaxanthin derivatives, Extracts from algae or animal raw materials contained in astaxanthin can be in the form of topical or oral preparations respectively.

In the preparations, the effect of astaxanthin by adding other active ingredients in a synergistic way Way amplified become. It has proven particularly beneficial if astaxanthin additionally with another antioxidant, especially α-tocopherol (vitamin E) or its derivatives, preferably the esters of α-tocopherol with long-chain fatty acids was combined. Likewise, in coloring hair care products particularly intensive and lasting coloring when combining Astaxanthin and other hair dyes achieved. Draw the funds is particularly well tolerated, in particular what about hair dyes often observed damage of the hair affects.

astaxanthin

Preferably, however, not exclusively the used according to the invention Astaxanthin obtained from algae, with Haematococcus pluvialis as Main source for the production is of marine origin.

Possible is self-evident also the use of synthetically produced astaxanthin, as well as Derivatives of astaxanthin, especially the esters.

Astaxanthin is used in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 8% by weight and particularly preferred 0.1 to 5% by weight - as pure astaxanthin - related on the overall preparation - used. Astaxanthin is preferably in encapsulated form, particularly preferred used as microcapsules.

In pharmaceutical preparations for oral administration astaxanthin is, its derivatives, esters and extracts with astaxanthin preferably in soft gelatin capsules, dissolved or dispersed in natural oils, preferably olive oil, safflower oil or semi-synthetic oils such as MCT oils (Miglyol ^®), as well as in formulations with modified release, preferably sustained release formulations. A daily dose of 0.1 to 5 mg, preferably 0.5 to 3 mg and particularly preferably 1 to 2 mg of pure astaxanthin is recommended.

microcapsules

The preparations according to the invention can either to be applied topically or over an oral intake. It has proven useful for both purposes encapsulate the preparations. The release of the active ingredient when applied directly to the skin by mechanical action on the membrane during application, while in the case of oral application a delayed Release either through the pores of the membrane or through its gradual resolution happens.

The term “microcapsule” is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean spherical aggregates with a diameter in the range from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5 mm, which contain at least one solid or liquid core which is enclosed by at least one continuous shell. More precisely, it involves finely dispersed liquid or solid phases coated with film-forming polymers, in the production of which the polymers precipitate on the material to be encased after emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization. Another method involves melting molten waxes in a matrix ("microsponge"), which as microparticles can also be coated with film-forming polymers. The microscopic capsules can be dried like powders. In addition to mononuclear microcapsules, multinuclear aggregates, also known as microspheres, are known, the two or more nuclei in the continuous shell material Monocore or multinuclear microcapsules can also be enclosed by an additional second, third, etc. The shell can consist of natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic materials, of course gum arabic, agar-agar, agarose, maltodextrins, alginic acid or their salts, for example sodium or calcium alginate, fats and fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithins, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides such as starch or dextran, polypeptides, protein hydrolyzates, sucrose and waxes. Semi-synthetic shell materials are, among other things, chemical modified C ellulose, in particular cellulose esters and ethers, for example cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, and starch derivatives, in particular starch ethers and esters. Synthetic covering materials are, for example, polymers such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

Examples of prior art microcapsules Technology are the following commercial products (indicated in brackets each the shell material) : Hallcrest Microcapsules (gelatin, gum arabic), Coletica Thalaspheres (maritime collagen), Lipotec millicapsules (alginic acid, agar-agar), Induchem Unispheres (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose); Unicerin C30 (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose), Kobo Glycospheres (modified starch, fatty acid esters, phospholipids), Soffspheres (modified agar), Kuhs Probiol Nanospheres (phospholipids) as well as Primaspheres and Primasponges (Chitosan, Alginate) and Primasys (Phospholipids).

The use of chitosan and chitosan derivatives is in the form of chitosan microspheres or microcapsules sufficient known.

In the sense of the present invention The protection also extends to encapsulated preparations, especially on microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an envelope membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, which are available, by one

• (i) from gel formers, chitosans and the components (a) and (b) prepared a matrix,
• (ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,
• (iii) the dispersed matrix with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers treated and optionally removed the oil phase.

In an alternative embodiment continue to be microcapsules with medium diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an envelope membrane and one of the active ingredients containing Matrx, which are available are by looking

• (i) from gel formers, anionic polymers and components (a) and (b) prepared a matrix,
• (ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,
• (iii) treating the dispersed matrix with aqueous chitosan solutions and possibly the oil phase away.

The microcapsules according to the invention have the particular advantage that they have a high stability compared to surfactants and can also be stably incorporated into cosmetic preparations in this way can without already during of storage dissolved to become. The advantage of oral intake is one high tolerance to mucous membranes with complete toxicological harmlessness.

• (i) aus Gelbildnern, Chitosanen und den Komponenten (a) und (b) eine Matrix zubereitet,
• (ii) gegebenenfalls die Matrix in einer Ölphase dispergiert,
• (iii) die dispergierte Matrix mit wässrigen Lösungen anionischer Polymeren behandelt und gegebenenfalls dabei die Ölphase entfernt.

oder

• (i) aus Gelbildnern, anionischen Polymeren und den Komponenten (a) und (b) eine zubereitet,
• (ii) gegebenenfalls die Matrix in einer Ölphase dispergiert,
• (iii) die dispergierte Matrix mit wässrigen Chitosanlösungen behandelt und gegebenenfalls dabei die Ölphase entfernt.

Analogously, further embodiments of the invention also relate to two processes for the production of microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an envelope membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, in which either

• (i) a matrix is prepared from gel formers, chitosans and components (a) and (b),
• (ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,
• (iii) the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process.

or

• (i) one prepared from gel formers, anionic polymers and components (a) and (b),
• (ii) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase,
• (iii) the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous chitosan solutions and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process.

gelling agent

For the purposes of the invention, those substances which have the property of forming gels in aqueous solution at temperatures above 40 ° C. are preferably considered as gel formers. Typical case games for this are heteropolysaccharides and proteins. Suitable thermogelling heteropolysaccharides are preferably agaroses, which can also be present in the form of the agar agar to be obtained from red algae together with up to 30% by weight of non-gel-forming agaropectins. The main constituent of the agaroses are linear polysaccharides from D-galactose and 3,6-anhydro-galactose, which are linked alternately by β-1,3- and β-1,4-glycosidic. The heteropolysaccharides preferably have a molecular weight in the range of 110,000 to 160,000 and are both colorless and tasteless. Alternatives are pectins, xanthans (also xanthan gum) and their mixtures. Preference is furthermore given to those types which still form gels in 1% by weight aqueous solution, which do not melt below 80 ° C. and solidify again above 40 ° C. The various types of gelatin from the group of thermogelating proteins are examples.

chitosan

Chitosans are biopolymers and belong to the group of hydrocolloids. From a chemical point of view, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights that contain the following - idealized - monomer unit:

Unlike most hydrocolloids, that are negatively charged in the range of biological pH values Chitosans represent cationic biopolymers under these conditions. The positively charged chitosans can be charged with oppositely charged ones surfaces interact and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and personal care products as well as pharmaceutical preparations.

To make the chitosans goes one of chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans which are available in large quantities as cheap raw materials. The chitin is usually first through Addition of bases deproteinized, demineralized by adding mineral acids and finally deacetylated by adding strong bases, the molecular weights over a wide range can be distributed. Those types which have an average Molecular weight from 10,000 to 500,000 or 800,000 to 1,200,000 Have Dalton and or a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of Have 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3% by weight. For reasons the better water solubility the chitosans usually in the form of their salts, preferably as Glycolate used.

oil phase

The matrix can optionally be dispersed in an oil phase before the membrane is formed. Suitable oils for this purpose are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyletyl stearate, cetyletyl stolate Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, Behenyler ucat, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids are also suitable polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic Hydrocarbons, such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

anionic polymers

The anionic polymers have the task of forming membranes with the chitosans. Salts of alginic acid are preferably suitable for this purpose. Alginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides with the following idealized monomer unit:

The average molecular weight of alginic acids or the alginate is in the range of 150,000 to 250,000. there are as salts of alginic acid both their complete as well as to understand their partial neutralization products, in particular the alkali salts and among these preferably the sodium alginate ("Algin") and the ammonium and alkaline earth salts. Mixed alginates, such as e.g. Sodium / magnesium or sodium / calcium alginates. In an alternative embodiment the invention come for this purpose, however, also anionic chitosan derivatives, e.g. carboxylation and especially succinylation products in question. Alternatively come also poly (meth) acrylates with average molecular weights in the range of 5,000 to 50,000 daltons as well as the various carboxymethyl celluloses in question. Instead of the anionic polymers for the formation of the envelope membrane also anionic surfactants or low molecular weight inorganic salts, such as pyrophosphates.

manufacturing microcapsules

To produce the microcapsules, a 1 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 5% by weight aqueous solution of the gel former, preferably the agar, is usually prepared and the mixture is heated under reflux. At the boiling point, preferably at 80 to 100 ° C., a second aqueous solution is added which contains the chitosan in amounts of 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.25 to 0.5% by weight and the active ingredient (components a and b ) in amounts of 0.1 to 25 and in particular 0.25 to 10 wt .-%; this mixture is called the matrix. The loading of the microcapsules with active ingredients can therefore also be 0.1 to 25% by weight, based on the capsule weight. If desired, water-insoluble constituents, for example inorganic pigments, can also be added at this point in time to adjust the viscosity, these generally being added in the form of aqueous or aqueous / alcoholic dispersions. To emulsify or disperse the active ingredients, it may also be useful to add emulsifiers and / or solubilizers to the matrix. After the matrix has been prepared from the gel former, chitosan and active ingredient mixture (components a and b), the matrix can optionally be very finely dispersed in an oil phase under high shear in order to produce particles as small as possible in the subsequent encapsulation. It has proven to be particularly advantageous to heat the matrix to temperatures in the range from 40 to 60 ° C., while the oil phase is cooled to 10 to 20 ° C. In the last step, which is now mandatory again, the actual encapsulation then takes place, ie the formation of the envelope membrane by bringing the chitosan in the matrix into contact with the anionic polymers. For this purpose it is advisable to optionally disperse the matrix in the oil phase at a temperature in the range from 40 to 100, preferably 50 to 60 ° C. with an aqueous, about 1 to 50 and preferably 10 to 15% by weight aqueous solution of the anion polymer to treat and - if necessary - to remove the oil phase at the same time or subsequently. The resulting aqueous preparations generally have a microcapsule content in the range from 1 to 10% by weight. In some cases it can be advantageous if the solution of the polymers contains further ingredients, for example emulsifiers or preservatives. After filtration, microcapsules are obtained which have an average diameter in the range of preferably about 1 mm. It is advisable to sieve the capsules to ensure that the size distribution is as uniform as possible. The microcapsules thus obtained can have any shape in the production-related frame, but they are preferably approximately spherical. Alternatively, the anionic polymers can also be used to produce the matrix and encapsulated with the chitosans.

Pro-liposomes

Instead of the described microcapsules come as carriers for the Mixtures of active ingredients also pro-liposomes in question. To clarify the term it should be noted that the pro-liposomes do not contain water and only absorb this with the formation of real liposomes if them into a watery Environment. Another object of the invention therefore concerns proliposomally encapsulated antioxidant mixtures which having components (a) and (b), and which are obtained by the mixtures in cosmetically acceptable solvents with lecithins and / or Phospholipids treated.

Under the name Lecithine means those skilled in the art those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and form choline by esterification. Lecithins are used in the professional world therefore often referred to as phosphatidylcholine (PC).

In the above formula is a lecithin indicated schematically, wherein R typically for linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds stands. As examples of natural Lecithins that can be encapsulated are the kephalins called, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and Represent derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. Understands against that one usually under phospholipids Monound and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerols (glycerol phosphates), which are generally considered to be fats. Come along, too for liposomal encapsulation sphingosines or sphingolipids in question. The use of lecithins or phospholipids for the production of Liposome is the relevant one Take literature.

manufacturing Pro-liposomes

A next object of the invention is analogous to a process for the production of pro-liposomally encapsulated Antioxidant mixtures directed that the components (a) and (b) and what you get by placing the mixtures in cosmetically acceptable solvents treated with lecithins and / or phospholipids. To do this the active ingredient mixtures usually either in a solvent submitted and with the lecithins or phospholipids at temperatures in the range of 30 to 70 ° C brought into contact or the anhydrous mixtures are in a solution the lecithins or phospholipids are stirred in. The active ingredients and the Lecithins and / or phospholipids can be 1 : 20 to 5: 1, preferably 1: 2 to 4: 1 can be used. As a solvent lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms are preferably suitable, such as. Ethanol or polyols, which usually have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and have at least two hydroxyl groups; here is propylene glycol prefers.

commercial applicability

For Formulations are particularly effective suitable for longer Time remaining on the hair or on the scalp, or the often aggressive Contain chemicals. These include Hair treatments, hair packs, hair lotions, Hair gels, hair colors, bleaching agents, perms, sun and After-sun products for Hair. The agents are also particularly suitable for long-term use with a prophylactic effect.

In a common embodiment of the agents according to the invention, the preparations are in a composition of:
0.001 to 10% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.01 to 3% by weight of tocopherol, based on the total preparation,
they preferably contain
0.05 to 8% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.03 to 2% by weight of tocopherol based on the total preparation and
particularly preferred
0.1 to 5% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.05 to 1% by weight of tocopherol, based on the total preparation.

The preparations according to the invention have a composition of:
0.001 to 10% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.01 to 8% by weight of hair dyes, based on the overall preparation,
they preferably contain
0.05 to 8 wt.% Astaxanthin and 0.05 to 5 wt.% Hair dyes based on the total preparation and
particularly preferred
0.1 to 5% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.1 to 3% by weight of hair dyes based on the overall preparation.

hair dyes

For coloring keratin fibers, preferably human hair, are common either so-called direct dyes or oxidation dyes used.

The latter consist of a developer (Oxidation base) and a coupler component (shader) together and are not dyes in the actual sense, but Dye precursors. Oxidation bases are aromatic compounds those with at least two electron-donating groups (amino and / or Hydroxy groups) are nucleus-substituted. For example primary aromatic amines with another, in para or ortho position free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives as well as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives. Special representatives include a. p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diamino-phenoxy) -ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazolone-5 and 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,4-aminobenzene and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine.

As a rule, shaders are also aromatic compounds, but with light on the ring in the m position oxidizable groups. The components are generally m-phenylenediamine derivatives, Naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols as well as pyridine derivatives. Suitable coupler substances are in particular 1-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolon-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine and 2,6-diaminopyridine.

Come as direct dyes for example, dyes from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, Nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols are considered, such as e.g. under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, NC Red 3, NC Red BN, Basic Red 76, NC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, NC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Picramic Acid and Rodol 9R known compounds and 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, (N-2,3-dihydroxypropyl-2-nitro-4-trifluoromethyl) aminobenzene and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride.

In addition to synthetic dyes, too natural dyes such as henna red, Henna neutral, black henna, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, Faulbauminde, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre, alkanna root, Curcumin, hematoxylin, and Autin are used. The natural dyes cannot clearly assigned to the two groups, but fall into the most common make in the group of direct dyes.

In addition to dye mixtures within the groups are also mixtures of dyes from different Groups can be used. In terms of other dye components are explicitly added to the Colipa list, published by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergents, Frankfurt, referred.

cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations

Astaxanthin can - as with the Averaging with longer Duration of effectiveness partially listed - for production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as, for example Hair shampoos, hair lotions, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and watery / alcoholic Solutions, Emulsions, stick preparations, Powders, ointments, tablets, coated tablets, capsules, juices, solutions and granules are used. These funds can as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, Pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, Stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, Phospholipids, biogenic agents, additional UV light protection factors, additional antioxidants, Antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, Preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like included.

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be contained as surface-active substances. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesul fonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfate and sulfate, sulfate amide, sulfate amide sulfate, sulfate amide Amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acyl amino acids, such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (in particular vegetable products based on wheat phosphate). If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.

Typical examples of non-ionic Surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol, fatty acid amide, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or Mixed formal, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, Fatty acid N-alkyl glucamides, Protein hydrolysates (especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol Sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants containing polyglycol ether chains, these can a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution exhibit. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary Ammonium compounds, such as dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, especially quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, Aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known connections. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly skin-friendly Surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, Fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether, Alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, Alkyl amido betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₄ come as oil bodies, for example ₁₃ -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate , Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, Behenyl behenate, behenylerucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di-triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids , Esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonates (Cet iol ^® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized Fettsäureestern with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, Siliciummethicontypen etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.

emulsifiers

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe sowie Alkylamine mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest;
• – Alkyl- undloder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alk(en)ylrest und deren ethoxylierte Analoga;
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 1 bis 15 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 15 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Ricinusöl und/oder gehärtetes Ricinusöl;
• – Partialester von Glycerin und/oder Sorbitan mit ungesättigten, linearen oder gesättigten, verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• – Partialester von Polyglycern (durchschnittlicher Eigenkondensationsgrad 2 bis 8), Polyethylenglyco1 (Molekulargewicht 400 bis 5000), Trimethylolpropan, Pentaerythrit, Zuckeralkoholen (z.B. Sorbit), Alkylglucosiden (z.B. Methylglucosid, Butylglucosid, Laurylglucosid) sowie Polyglucosiden (z.B. Cellulose) mit gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und/oder Hydroxycarbonsäuren mit 3 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen sowie deren Addukte mit 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid;
• – Mischester aus Pentaerythrit, Fettsäuren, Citronensäure und Fettalkohol und/oder Mischester von Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, Methylglucose und Polyolen, vorzugsweise Glycerin oder Polyglycerin.
• – Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphate sowie Mono-, Di- und/oder Tri-PEG-alkylphosphate und deren Salze;
• – Wollwachsalkohole;
• – Polysiloxan-Polyalkyl-Polyether-Copolymere bzw. entsprechende Derivate;
• – Block-Copolymere z.B. Polyethylenglycol-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate;
• – Polymeremulgatoren, z.B. Pemulen-Typen (TR-1,TR-2) von Goodrich;
• – Polyalkylenglycole sowie
• – Glycerincarbonat.

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohol alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alk (en) yl radical and their ethoxylated analogs;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• Partial esters of glycerol and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide;
• - Partial esters of polyglycerols (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glyco1 (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) as well as poly / glucosides (e.g. cellulosic) with saturated (e.g. cellulose unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - wool wax alcohols;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• Block copolymers, for example polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerine carbonate.

Ethylene Oxide

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs, the average degree of alkoxylation of which is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out. C _12/18 fatty acid _monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

–Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their manufacture and use are state of the art known. They are manufactured in particular by implementing Glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols from 8 to 18 Carbon atoms. In terms of of the glycoside residue applies that both Monoglycosides, in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidic is bound to the fatty alcohol, as well as oligomeric glycosides a degree of oligomerization up to preferably about 8 are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, the one for such technical products usual Is based on homolog distribution.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable ones Partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolsäuremoglycerid, Ricinolsäurediglycerid, Linolsäuremonoglycerid, Linolsäurediglycerid, Linolensäuremonoglycerid, Linolensäurediglycerid, Erucasäuremonoglycerid, Erucasäurediglycerid, Weinsäuremonoglycerid, Weinsäurediglycerid, Citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride as well as their technical mixtures, which are still minor from the manufacturing process May contain amounts of triglyceride. Are also suitable Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles of ethylene oxide to the partial glycerides mentioned.

sorbitan

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquuesostearate, sorbitan deseostearate, sorbitan trisisearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan moo come as sorbitan esters noerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrirucat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonotartrat, Sorbitansesqui-tartrate, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitantritartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat, Sorbitandicitrat, sorbitan, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan, sorbitan dimaleate, Sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

polyglycerol

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ^® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ^® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ^® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Düsostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ^® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina ^® ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ^® NL), Polyglyceryl -3 Distearate (Cremophor ^® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul ^® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable polyol esters are the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic, as well as dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or Sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Furthermore, zwitteronic surfactants can be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C _12/18 acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, camauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, come among others , Ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

For example, come as pearlescent waxes in question: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial Glycertde, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain ones Esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, Fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic, Ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

bodying and thickeners

Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole ^® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene ^® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Al lied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites such as Gentone ^® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven to be particularly effective. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances can be used as superfatting agents such as lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.

stabilizers

Metal salts can be used as stabilizers of fatty acids, such as. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as Luviquat ^® (BASF) , condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ^® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, for example amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of Acrylic acid with dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline v issued, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic Guar gum, as for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar ^® C-17, Jaguar ^® C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, for example Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 of Miranol company.

As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers come, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / Isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate 12-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are for example dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic Silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modification Silicone compounds that are both liquid at room temperature also resin-shaped can be present. Simethicones, which are mixtures, are also suitable from dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

• – 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethyl-hexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoe-säureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene);
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-iso-propylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester;
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexyl-ester;
• – Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl Triazon, oder Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb^® HEB);
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion;
• – Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate.

The additional UV light protection factors to be added are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-iso-propylbenzyl salicylic acid, homomethyl salicylic acid;
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
• - triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, "for example 4-tert-Buty1-4'methoxydibenzoylmethan (Parsol ^® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters Cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light barrier pigments are also used for this purpose te, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-camosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate , Distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low amounts Daily dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate ), Tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin apalmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanic acid, nordihydroidic acid, nordihydrochloric acid, nordihydrochloric acid, nordihydrochloric acid, nordihydroxy acid acid, nordihydro acid acid , Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its De derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Biogenic active substances are, for example Tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, Retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and to understand vitamin complexes.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example Chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary Cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and the like Links.

Antidandruff agents

As Antischuppenwirkstofte come piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinonmonoethanolaminsalz) Baypival ^® (Climbazole), ketoconazole ^®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1N-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon UD ^® (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, magnesium pyrithione in Aluminiumpyrithion and dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, as swelling agents for aqueous phases, Clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) serve.

hydrotropes

• – Glycerin;
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton;
• – technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.%;
• – Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit;
• – Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid;
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit,
• – Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose;
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin;
• – Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-1,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerin;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

conservation Mitel

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver ^complexes known under the name Surfacine ^® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Perfume oils and flavors

Mixtures are mentioned as perfume oils natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelica, Celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, Cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, Fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Count among the ethers e.g. benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear Alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, among the Ketones e.g. the Jonone, α-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different are preferred Fragrances used that together have an appealing fragrance produce. Also essential oils less Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably become bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, Benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cyclover Valley, Lavender Oil, Muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures, used.

The flavors are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, stemanis oil, caraway oil, Eu calyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

Suitable dyes for cosmetic purposes and approved substances are used. Examples are culinary malts A (C.I. 16255), Patent Blue V (C.I.42051), Indigotin (C.I.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), quinoline yellow (C.I.47005), titanium dioxide (C.1.77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder varnish (C.I.58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye.

example recipes

Tabelle 2: Haarshampoo ((Mengenangaben in Gew. %)

Tabelle 3: Haarfärbemittel, semi-permanent (Mengenangaben in Gew.%)

Table 1: Leave-on hair tonic (amounts in% by weight)

Table 2: Hair shampoo ((amounts in% by weight)

Table 3: Hair dye, semi-permanent (amounts in% by weight)

Claims (10)

Use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents against Hair loss. Use of astaxanthin for the manufacture of strengthening agents of the hair and improvement of the hair shaft properties. Use of astaxanthin for the manufacture of stimulation agents of hair growth. Use of astaxanthin for the manufacture of protective agents of the hair before exposure to UV light. Use of astaxanthin in hair dyes. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that that astaxanthin is obtained from algae. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the astaxanthin in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight - based on the means - used becomes. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that that astaxanthin is used in an encapsulated form. Hair care products containing a) astaxanthin and b) at least one hair dye. Preparations containing a) astaxanthin and b) α-tocopherol or α-tocopherol derivatives