WO2003070199A1 - Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a deux phases comprenant une microemulsion - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a deux phases comprenant une microemulsion Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003070199A1
WO2003070199A1 PCT/EP2003/001476 EP0301476W WO03070199A1 WO 2003070199 A1 WO2003070199 A1 WO 2003070199A1 EP 0301476 W EP0301476 W EP 0301476W WO 03070199 A1 WO03070199 A1 WO 03070199A1
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Prior art keywords
phase
preparations according
advantageous
acid
cosmetic
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PCT/EP2003/001476
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jens Schulz
Anja Göppel
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Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to EP03708099A priority Critical patent/EP1478326A1/fr
Publication of WO2003070199A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003070199A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/02—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings containing insect repellants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase, and the preparation and use of the preparation.
  • the skin is the largest human organ. Among its many functions (for example for heat regulation and as a sensory organ), the most important is the barrier function that prevents the skin (and ultimately the entire organism) from drying out. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is brought about by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At around a tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin.
  • a widely used cosmetic and dermatological form of preparation is the emulsion.
  • finely dispersed droplets of the second phase enclosed by an emulsifier shell, are present in one phase. If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
  • a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the opposite principle, whereby the basic character is determined by the oil.
  • finely dispersed droplets of the first phase are emulsified in such droplets.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • Formula II applies to a group of emulsifiers whose hydrophilic portion consists only of ethylene oxide units
  • Emulsifiers with HLB values of 6-8 are generally W / O emulsifiers, those with HLB values of 8-18 are generally O / W emulsifiers.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers (with high HLB values) are usually O / W emulsifiers. Accordingly, hydrophobic or lipophilic emulsifiers (with low HLB values) are generally W / O emulsifiers.
  • Emulsions are colored milky white without any other coloring additives. Finer "macro-emulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from about 500 nm to about 1 ⁇ m, are also white and usually have a high viscosity. The droplet diameter of microemulsions, on the other hand, is in the range from about 10 "3 ⁇ m to about 0.5 ⁇ m. Microemulsions are translucent or bluish white and mostly of low viscosity. The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions".
  • phase inversion temperature range PIT
  • emulsifier-stabilized O / W emulsions generally undergo reversible phase inversion when the phase inversion temperature is exceeded, that is to say the inner phase becomes the outer phase. You get first a W / O emulsion. If the inverted emulsion is cooled again below the phase inversion temperature, O / W emulsions with particularly small droplet sizes (microemulsions) can result.
  • phase inversion depends on different external parameters.
  • the phase inversion range can be represented mathematically as a set of points within the rectilinear coordinate system ⁇ , which is formed by the quantities temperature, pH and concentration of a suitable emulsifier or a mixture of emulsifiers in the preparation, according to:
  • ⁇ ⁇ O, ⁇ , a, m ⁇ , with O - coordinate origin ⁇ - temperature a - pH value m concentration
  • ⁇ ⁇ O, ⁇ , a, m- ,, m 2 , ..., m leads.
  • the phase inversion range ⁇ represents in the mathematical sense a coherent area or a large number of coherent areas within the coordinate system ⁇ .
  • ⁇ represents the total set of coordinate points K ( ⁇ , a, m 1f m 2 , ..., mi), which are according to the invention Determine mixtures of water and oil phase, i emulsifiers according to the invention of concentration nrij at temperature ⁇ and pH a, and for which it applies that phase inversion occurs when changing from a coordinate K-, $ ⁇ to a coordinate K 2 e ⁇ ,
  • microemulsions also called PIT emulsions
  • PIT emulsions are externally uniform, homogeneous preparations.
  • consumers are increasingly perceiving them as monotonous and boring.
  • the possibilities for making these emulsions more visually attractive are limited.
  • consumers are tired of the flood of ready-to-use finished products and are inspired by the desire to prepare the cosmetic formulations themselves in order to do "something good” afterwards.
  • two-phase cosmetic preparations are increasingly being offered which the customer can convert into a homogeneous emulsion by simply shaking and then use.
  • the object is achieved by two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations, the first phase being formed from a microemulsion and the second phase from a lipophilic phase.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they separate again particularly quickly.
  • the migration of ingredients from the lipophilic is surprising in the preparations according to the invention Phase of the microemulsion largely suppressed into the separate lipophilic phase and vice versa. This not only leads to particularly long-term stable preparations. It also enables the targeted control of the absorption of ingredients through the skin and hair in an unforeseen manner.
  • Two-phase cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention means that the microemulsion and lipophilic phase are present separately on top of each other.
  • the microemulsion is considered to be a phase in this regard, although it is of course known to those skilled in the art that microemulsions per se are formed from two phases homogenized with one another.
  • the microemulsion is long-term stable. This means that segregation or phase separation does not occur over a longer period (months, years).
  • the peculiarity of the present invention, which is to be expressed with the term two-phase is now that the microemulsion and the lipophilic phase, which is present separately as the second phase, are present in layers separated from one another.
  • phase or layers can, for example, be emulsified briefly to give a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather segregates again into a layered microemulsion and lipophilic phase over a period of minutes, hours or days.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the separate lipophilic phase in an amount of 5 to 95% by volume, in particular 10 to 90% by volume, based on the total volume of the formulation.
  • microemulsion according to the invention is advantageously an O ⁇ / V emulsion.
  • the preparations according to the invention are distinguished in that they contain emulsifiers of the microemulsion in a concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the weight of the microemulsion.
  • the droplet size of the inner phase of the microemulsion is 10 nm to 500 nm and particularly preferably 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • the microemulsion and the separate lipophilic phase can each appear transparent (translucent) or translucent (translucent).
  • Preparations in which at least one of the two phases is not transparent are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • emulsifiers in addition to the emulsifiers known in cosmetic preparations, those whose lipophilicity is either dependent on the pH value, such that the lipophilicity increases or decreases by increasing or decreasing the pH value, are particularly advantageous, it being irrelevant which of the two possibilities of change the lipophilicity is brought about by increasing or decreasing the pH, and / or the lipophilicity is dependent on the temperature, in such a way that the lipophilicity increases with increasing temperature and the hydrophilicity increases with decreasing temperature.
  • Such emulsifiers are, for example, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, glycol distearate, Glykoldilaurat, Diethylenglykoldilaurat, sorbitan trioleate, Glykololeat, glyceryl dilaurate, sorbitan tristearate, propylene glycol stearate, Propylenglycoilaurat, Propylenglycoldistearat, sucrose distearate, PEG-3 castor oil, Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythritylsesquioleat , Glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol stearate, glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl monooleate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, glyce
  • the emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are completely or partially neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, sodium and potassium carbonate and mono- and triethanolamine).
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, sodium and potassium carbonate and mono- and triethanolamine.
  • stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • emulsifier from the group of fatty alcohols which have a chain length of more than 8 carbon atoms.
  • Z are particularly preferred.
  • the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected are particularly advantageously selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 10-18, very particularly preferably partly with HLB values of 11 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers have saturated residues R and R '. If the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R and / or R 'or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higher.
  • fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols).
  • Sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.
  • Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can advantageously be used as alkyl ether sulfate.
  • Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative.
  • Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.
  • polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprolate caprinate 20, glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate cocoat to choose.
  • sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate.
  • the list of emulsifiers mentioned which can be used in the sense of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.
  • the aqueous phase of the microemulsion of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol , Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the Group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • the separate lipophilic phase and the oil phase of the microemulsion of the formulations according to the invention are advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes, and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl co-coat, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyidodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-stonolate, n-stonolate, n-stonyl-n-stonate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearyl heptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyleruc
  • oil phases can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl saiicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • B. butyl octyl saiicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof Hallstar AB
  • Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R diethyl hexyl naphthalate
  • oil phases can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched oils.
  • non-polar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched oils.
  • hydrocarbons and waxes in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phases can also advantageously have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups) are saturated).
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abu 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiioxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different types of abil wax.
  • silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example Cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiioxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:
  • Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO 1 ⁇ 5 and / or R 3 SiO 0 , 5 and / or SiO 2 , the individual radicals R each independently of one another hydrogen, C 1-2 -AlK- (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO ⁇ is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1;
  • Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used so chosen the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) • is in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and • in the range from 1 to 50 mol% % is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder according to the invention are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade names DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof. It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) is in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain further cosmetic and / or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used as sunscreens. However, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not protection against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain a content of further UV protection substances. So z. B. usually incorporated into self-tanning products, day care products or make-up products UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention advantageously contain at least one UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment reflecting and / or absorbing UV light.
  • the formulations can, if not necessary, possibly also one or more contain more organic and / or inorganic pigments than UV filter substances, which can be present in the water and / or oil phase
  • UV protective substances are exclusively in one of the two phases or in both phases of the preparations according to the invention.
  • Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), Silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium ( BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), for example, a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character should be formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer.
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 , sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86-9), barium sulfate (BaSO) or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6 sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n
  • silicon dioxide SiO 2
  • SiSO barium sulfate
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron oxide
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid.
  • dimethylpolysiloxane also: dimethicone
  • methicone methylpolysiloxane
  • simethicone a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel
  • alginic acid can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxan
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • dibenzoyl methane derivatives in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoyl methane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. B .:
  • Benzoxazole derivatives e.g. the 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzossazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine (CAS no .: 288254-16-0), which is available for example under the trade name UVASorb® K2A from 3V Sigma.
  • Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B. • 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine
  • Tinosorb® S (INCI: Aniso Triazin), which is sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by
  • Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V; 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester), also:
  • UVINUL® T 150 is sold.
  • An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1- [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex ,
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances in the sense of the present invention are e.g.
  • ⁇ 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A and / or UV-B protection, preferably also contain further UV-A and in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention / or broadband filter, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], phenylene-1, 4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or the 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzo
  • the UV light protection filters advantageous according to the invention are preferably used in a concentration of 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular in a concentration of 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Particularly preferred embodiments of the present invention contain, as the UV filter, one or more triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, UV filters which are liquid at room temperature and / or the inorganic pigments, in particular titanium dioxide.
  • Embodiments of the present invention which contain at least one water-soluble UV filter are also particularly advantageous.
  • film formers may also be advantageous to incorporate film formers into the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, for example in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations or to increase the UV protection performance (UV-A and / or UV-B boosting).
  • Both water-soluble or dispersible and fat-soluble film formers are suitable, in each case individually or in combination with one another.
  • Advantageous fat-soluble film formers are e.g. B., the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, as well as Tricontayl PVP and the like.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and the cosmetic and / or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, such as are usually used in such preparations, for.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries such as are usually used in such preparations, for.
  • preservatives preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, Oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • antioxidants are generally preferred. According to the invention, all for cosmetic and / or dermatological At one turns antioxidants customary or suitable to be used as favorable antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as DL-camosin, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g.
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan
  • imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as DL-camosin, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine)
  • carotenoids e.g.
  • thiols e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters
  • salts dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthio dipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionine sulfoximines in very low tolerable doses (for example pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), furthermore (Metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, lininoic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives
  • ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • Vitamin E acetate Vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguoyak resin acid, nordihydrophonic acid, derihutrophonic acid, derihutyro acid derivatives, and urethane acid trihydroxybenzoate derivatives , Mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO 4 ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipid
  • the amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 7% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • selected recipes according to the invention are suitable, which e.g. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosylrutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as. B. occur during skin aging (eg wrinkles and fine lines). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • ⁇ -glycosylrutin is the antioxidant, it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain one or more wash-active anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or non-ionic surfactants.
  • Products of this type can be used according to the invention particularly advantageously for cleaning the skin and appendages (hair, nails). It is particularly advantageous to choose the wash-active surfactant or surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly advantageous are those which have an HLB value of more than 35.
  • Acylamino acids and their salts such as ⁇ acylglutamates, especially sodium acylglutamate
  • ⁇ sarcosinates for example myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium and sodium,
  • Sulfonic acids and their salts such as ⁇ acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
  • ⁇ sulfosuccinates for example dioctyl, Dinatriumlaurethsulfo- succinate, disodium and disodium MEA sulphosuccinate
  • sulfuric acid esters such as
  • alkyl ether sulfate for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium pareth sulfate, and sodium C 12-13,
  • Quaternary surfactants are particularly advantageous washing-active cationic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention. Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom which is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Benzalkonium chloride, alkylbetaine, alkylamidopropylbetaine and alkylamidopropylhydroxysultain are advantageous.
  • Acyl / dialkyl ethylenediamines for example sodium acyl amphoacetate, disodium acyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
  • washing active non-ionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are: ⁇ alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
  • esters formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
  • ⁇ ethers for example ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryiglucoside, decylglycoside and cocoglycoside.
  • ⁇ taurates for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
  • ⁇ ether carboxylic acids for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,
  • organophosphate and salts such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate
  • Alkyl sulfonates for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C 12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate.
  • N-alkylamino acids for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.
  • Further advantageous non-ionic surfactants are alcohols.
  • acyl glutamates such as di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate
  • ⁇ acyl peptides for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen
  • carboxylic acids and derivatives such as
  • lauric acid aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc decylate
  • ester carboxylic acids for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are also amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide.
  • the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic preparation is selected from the range from 0.1 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 10 to 20% by weight, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain polysorbates.
  • Polysorbates are a class of compounds derived from sorbitan, a furan derivative obtained from sorbitol by splitting off two equivalents of water.
  • the hydroxyl groups of sorbitan are etherified with polyethylene glycols, the ends of which can be esterified with fatty acids. They can be generalized by the formula
  • these are advantageously used in a concentration of 0.1 to 5% by weight and in particular in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, individually or as a mixture of several polysorbates.
  • thickeners are used in the preparations according to the invention.
  • these can advantageously be selected from the group of gums.
  • Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum can advantageously be selected from this group for the purposes of the present invention.
  • derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8
  • polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
  • cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose as advantageous thickeners according to the invention.
  • Layered silicates contain naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as Montmoriilonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in a modified form as thickeners, e.g. Stearylalkonium hektorite.
  • silica gels can also advantageously be used.
  • the polyacrylates include e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
  • Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, ETD 2001, ETD 2020, ETD 2050 or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).
  • polymers e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.
  • the thickeners according to the invention are particularly advantageous according to the invention for regulating the separation or separation speed of the two phases according to the invention: the separate lipophilic phase and the microemulsion can be homogenized for a limited time by shaking or stirring.
  • the separation or separation speed of the separate lipophilic phase and microemulsion can be regulated according to the invention by adding hydrophobic and / or hydrophilic thickeners. This regulation is based on the principle that by increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the microemulsion by adding in particular hydrophilic thickeners and / or by increasing the viscosity of the additional oil phase, the separation or separation speed is reduced.
  • Particularly preferred embodiments of the preparation according to the invention are characterized in that after homogenization by shaking, the phases are separated again within 30 seconds to 2 hours.
  • preparations according to the invention can advantageously, if not necessarily, contain preservatives.
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamate (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, Benzoic acid and the like.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously includes preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soy, etc.
  • large amounts of acidic aluminum and / or aluminum / zirconium salts can advantageously be incorporated stably into the preparation.
  • 5 to 40% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight, aluminum chlorohydrate and / or aluminum / zirconium chlorohydrate can be stably incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • the concentration ranges described here relate to the so-called active contents of the antiperspirant complexes: for the aluminum compounds to anhydrous complexes, for the aluminum / zirconium compounds to anhydrous and buffer-free complexes.
  • Glycine is usually used here as a buffer.
  • Aluminum salts such as aluminum chloride AICI 3 , aluminum sulfate AI 2 (SO) 3
  • Aluminum-zirconium salts • Aluminum / zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine [AI 4 Zr (OH) 13 CI 3 ] x H 2 O x Gly Standard Al / Zr complexes: Rezal 33GP (Reheis), AZG-7164 (Summit), zirconal
  • L435G (Giulini) Activated Al / Zr complexes: Reach AZP 855 (Reheis), AAZG-6313-15 (Summit), Zirkonal AP4G (Giulini)
  • glycine-free aluminum / zirconium salts can also be advantageous.
  • antiperspirants from the raw material classes aluminum and aluminum / zirconium salts should not be limited to the commercially available, mostly aqueous solutions, such as Locron L (Clariant), but it can also be advantageous to use the commercially available anhydrous solutions Powder of the same raw materials by incorporation into the claimed formulations, such as Locron P (Clariant).
  • antiperspirants are based on other metals, such as e.g. aluminum or zirconium. Beryllium, titanium, hafnium.
  • antiperspirant active ingredients should not be limited to metal-containing raw materials, but also compounds that contain non-metals such as boron and those that belong to the field of organic chemistry, such as e.g. Anticholinergics.
  • polymers which can be both metal-containing and metal-free are also advantageous.
  • compositions according to the invention optionally contain the additives customary in cosmetics, for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides , Repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as emulsifiers, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • additives customary in cosmetics for example perfume, dyes, antimicrobial substances, lipid-replenishing agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, further plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients, preservatives, bactericides , Repellents, self-tanners, depigmenting agents, pigments that have a coloring effect, softening, moistur
  • compositions according to the invention can also be incorporated into the preparations according to the invention.
  • these include, for example, panthenol, allantoin, tannin, antihistamines, anti-inflammatory drugs, glucocorticoids (e.g. hydrocortisone) as well as plant active ingredients such as azulene and bisabolol, glycyrrhizin, hamamelin and plant extracts such as chamomile, aloe vera, hamazelis, sweet corn root.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Glycerol aldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, ⁇ -dialdehyde, erythrulose, 6-Aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone (juglone), 2-hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) can also be used advantageously according to the invention Self-tanning substances are used.
  • the preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) - ethyl propionate (available under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535 from Merck)
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the skin layer (also called trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the layer on the home.
  • TEWL trans-epidermal water loss
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA.
  • Moisturizers can also be used as anti-wrinkle agents for prophylaxis and treatment. treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. According to the invention, the individual can advantageously
  • Phases of the preparation may be colored differently. Embodiments of the
  • Cosmetics regulation or the EC list of cosmetic colorants can be selected. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2 , -azonaphthalene-1'- sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B.
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3rd layer substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • B the pearlescent pigments available from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.
  • pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se.
  • other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like.
  • -Advantages are B. with TiO 2 and Fe 2 O 3 coated SiO 2 particles ("Ronaspheren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.
  • Iron pearlescent pigments which are produced without the use of mica are particularly preferred. Such pigments are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl copper 1000 from BASF.
  • effect pigments which are available from Flora Tech under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in various colors (yello, red, green, blue).
  • the glitter particles are present in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).
  • the dyes and pigments can be present either individually or in combination, and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses.
  • the total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range from Z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Bayrein CX 100.
  • EDDS EDTA
  • [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest
  • pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate which, for. B.
  • Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodis
  • the viscosities of the preparations according to the invention are advantageously between aqueous thin (0-700 mPas) up to a flowable consistency (700-4000 mPas).
  • the very low viscosity preparations could be used in containers with pump systems as a spray or as a fluid.
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be used according to the invention as an ointment, cream or lotion. Their use in the form of a spray, e.g. a pump spray advantageous according to the invention,. the preparations can advantageously also be foamed.
  • cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to one of the preceding claims is also a sunscreen, self-tanning agent and / or insect repellent.
  • the preparations according to the invention can be produced by the following method according to the invention:
  • Step 1 Production of a microemulsion according to a process common to the person skilled in the art, such as the phase inversion temperature process (PIT process).
  • PIT process phase inversion temperature process
  • the mixing can be done by simple stirring up to a strong homogenization.
  • one of the two phases (the microemulsion or the lipophilic phase) is placed in a sufficiently large container and then the other phase is added with stirring.
  • the rate of segregation can be influenced by the strength of the stirring or homogenization.
  • the complete separation of the two phases is slowed down by a high energy input. It is advisable to ensure a sufficiently good homogenization before filling into the final containers or to stir during filling so that a constant phase-volume ratio can be maintained.
  • Another possibility of mixing the two phases is filling the final containers one after the other (layered). With this type of filling, usually the volumes of the individual phases can be set even more precisely.
  • phase-volume ratios of the microemulsion to the aqueous or lipophilic phase can be set in a ratio of 1: 3 to 3: 1 for the 2-phase product.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques à deux phases, la première phase étant constituée d'une microémulsion et la seconde étant une phase lipophile.
PCT/EP2003/001476 2002-02-19 2003-02-14 Preparations cosmetiques ou dermatologiques a deux phases comprenant une microemulsion WO2003070199A1 (fr)

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DE2002106795 DE10206795A1 (de) 2002-02-19 2002-02-19 Zweiphasige kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit einer Mikroemulsion

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004073673A1 (fr) * 2003-02-20 2004-09-02 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Composition emulsifiante et microemulsions transparentes ou translucides qui la contiennent
FR2861294A1 (fr) * 2003-10-23 2005-04-29 Oreal Emulsion h/e fluide stable, et ses utilisations dans le domaine cosmetique ou dermatologique
WO2005077327A1 (fr) * 2004-02-11 2005-08-25 Beiersdorf Ag Formulations autobronzantes cosmetiques et dermatologiques contenant de la dihydroxyacetone et de la glycerine

Citations (3)

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