WO2003020229A2

WO2003020229A2 - Cream base for producing hair colorants

Info

Publication number: WO2003020229A2
Application number: PCT/EP2002/009438
Authority: WO
Inventors: Doris Oberkobusch; Horst Höffkes; Udo Erkens
Original assignee: Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien
Priority date: 2001-09-01
Filing date: 2002-08-23
Publication date: 2003-03-13
Also published as: EP1420753A2; DE10143024A1; AU2002333688A1; WO2003020229A3

Abstract

The invention relates to a cream base, which can be produced using a cold/cold method. Said base contains a) between 1 and 15 wt. % straight-chained or branched C8-C22 alcohols or alcohol mixtures, which are liquid at temperatures of above 15 DEG C, or are soluble in the remaining components of the formulation, b) between 0.1 and 10 wt. % anionic and/or non-ionic surfactants, c) between 2 and 15 wt. % C16-C22 fatty acid of fatty acid soap and d) optionally additional conventional ingredients and water to make up 100 wt. %. Colorant components can be easily incorporated. The cream thus obtained has sufficient viscosity after being blended with the developer emulsion and maintains said viscosity even at the application temperature and at increased storage temperatures.

Description

Cream base for the manufacture of hair dyes

The present invention relates to a cream base for the production of hair colorants, which can be obtained by cold / cold production processes, as well as a process for the production of the cream bases and the use of these cream bases in hair colorants.

Hair dyes are mainly offered in the form of creams which contain the coloring components, eg the dye precursors in the case of oxidation hair dyes or the dyes in the case of substantive dyes. In the case of oxidation hair colorants, the coloring cream is mixed with an H ₂ O ₂ -containing emulsion (developer emulsion) before use.

The coloring creams usually contain fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol ethoxylates, fatty acids or their esters as so-called consistency agents (fat phase). In addition to the dyes, other components are nonionic, anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, neutralizing agents, perfume oils, antioxidants and care components such as silicone oils, protein hydrolyzates, cationic polymers etc.

For the most part, the substances used as consistency agents only melt above 50 ° C to 60 ° C. It is therefore necessary that the fat phase is first melted in the production of customary coloring creams before the cream emulsion can be produced. The emulsion produced must then be carefully cooled.

Methods for producing cosmetic emulsions by means of cold / cold processes are also known. For example, A. K. Reng in Cosmet Toilet, 101 (11), 1986, p. 117 ff. Describes the production of low-viscosity emulsions using the cold / cold process. However, the viscosity of the emulsions is too low for use as hair dye creams.

Another manufacturing process for hair dye creams is known from WO98 / 51267, in which one first produces a PIT or microemulsion and in this stirs the dye components in the cold. Although this process saves the heating and cooling step directly in the production of coloring cream, the PIT emulsion is produced in the heat.

The object of the present invention was to provide cream bases which can be produced using so-called cold / cold processes and into which further components, e.g. coloring components, can be incorporated.

In the case of use as a hair dye cream, the cream base or the finished dye cream should have a sufficiently high viscosity and a suitable flow behavior after mixing with a developer emulsion, so that the mixture can be easily applied to the fibers to be colored and does not drip down. Furthermore, the cream should have a largely constant viscosity in the temperature range between 20 ° C and 45 ° C, so that even when the cream is heated to skin temperature (approx. 32 ° C) there is no dripping and the emulsion remains stable at higher storage temperatures.

Surprisingly, it was found that cream bases which are suitable for the production of coloring creams can be produced by means of cold / cold processes if they contain a combination of fatty alcohols, anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, fatty acids / fatty acid soaps in defined quantity ranges and, if appropriate, further ingredients ,

The present invention accordingly relates to a cream base which can be prepared by means of a cold / cold process, comprising a) 1 to 15% by weight of straight-chain or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alcohols or alcohol mixtures which are liquid at temperatures above 15 ° C. or in the other components of the formulation are soluble, b) 0.1 to 10% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, c) 2 to 15% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid / fatty acid soap, and d) any other usual ingredients and water to 100% by weight.

The cream bases according to the invention can be produced by means of cold / cold processes. The coloring components are easy to incorporate and the cream obtained has a sufficient viscosity after mixing with the developer emulsion and maintains its viscosity even at the application temperature and at elevated storage temperatures. When emulsions are produced using the cold / cold process, the individual starting components are not heated. The components usually have room temperature, which also means slightly elevated temperatures up to 35 ° C.

The components used are known from the prior art and are commercially available.

The alcohols or alcohol mixtures used as component a) can be straight-chain or branched and have 8 to 22 carbon atoms. They can be native or synthetic. Those alcohols or alcohol mixtures which, in combination with the compounds of component b), have a thickening effect are preferably used. The alcohols of component a) are preferably present in the cream base according to the present invention in an amount of 1 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 8% by weight, based on the finished cream base.

The anionic surfactants of component b) are preferably selected from C ₈ - C ₂₂ -Fettalkoholethersulfaten having 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, salts of C ₈ - C ₂₂ -Fettalkoholethercarbonsäuren, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl sulfates, C ₈ -C ₂₂ - Alkyl sulfonates, salts of N-acylated amino acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the acyl radical, such as N-acylated glutamic acid or aspartic acid, and mixtures thereof. The preferred nonionic surfactants used are, in particular, the alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, triglycerides and mixtures thereof. Component b) is preferably used in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 3 to 6% by weight, based on the finished cream base.

As a further component c), the cream base according to the invention contains a fatty acid or fatty acid soap or a fatty acid or fatty acid soap mixture, it being possible to use linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids or fatty acid soaps. Components c) can be added in the form of the acids which are neutralized in the course of the production process or as neutralized fatty acid soaps. Fatty acids which are preferably used are isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid or their mixtures or their alkali or ammonium soaps. The fatty acid or fatty acid soap is preferably in an amount of 2 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably in an amount of 3 to 7 wt .-%, based on the finished cream base.

In a preferred embodiment, the cream base according to the invention contains further surfactants selected from zwitterionic surfactants, ampholytic surfactants, dialkanolamides, amine oxides and / or polyethylene glycol ethers. These components can be present in the cream base according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably in an amount of 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, based on the finished cream base.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ - or -SO ₃ ^H group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-NN-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8-18 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid, each with approximately 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12-18 acyl sarcosine.

In particular, a combination of fatty alcohol sulfates of component b) and the other surfactants can have a thickening effect on the cream base according to the invention. In a particularly preferred embodiment, a combination of C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol ether sulfates with 2 to 4 EO and zwitterionic surfactants, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, is used. To adjust the viscosity, customary thickening additives can additionally be used in amounts of up to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. The viscosity of the agents can be measured using customary standard methods (for example Brookfield RVD-VII viscometer at 20 rpm and 20 ° C., spindle 3) and is preferably in the range from 100 to 5000 mPas. Preferred liquid to gel form agents have viscosities of 200 to 4000 mPas, values between 400 and 2000 mPas being particularly preferred.

Suitable thickeners are inorganic or polymeric organic compounds. Mixtures of several thickeners can also be used.

The inorganic thickeners include, for example, polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas and clays such as bentonites.

The organic thickeners come from the groups of natural polymers, modified natural polymers and fully synthetic polymers.

Polymers derived from nature that are used as thickeners are, for example, agar agar, carrageenan, alginates, xanthan gum, karaya gum, tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans , Starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, gelatin and casein.

Modified natural products mainly come from the group of modified starches and celluloses, examples include carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, such as hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and core meal ether.

A large group of thickeners that are widely used in a wide variety of applications are the fully synthetic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides and polyurethanes.

Anionic and cationic polymers, preferably copolymers of anionic and nonionic monomers, may also be mentioned as further examples of fully synthetic polymers, those consisting of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, the sulfonic acid group being whole or partially as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt exist, are particularly preferred.

Thickeners from the substance classes mentioned are commercially available and are sold, for example, under the trade names Acusol ^® -820 (methacrylic acid (stearyl alcohol-20-EO) ester-acrylic acid copolymer, 30% strength in water, Rohm & Haas), Dapral ^® -GT -282-S (alkyl polyglycol ether, Akzo), Deuterol ^® polymer 11

(Dicarboxylic acid copolymer, Schoener GmbH), Deuteron ^® -XG (anionic heteropolysaccharide based on β-D-glucose, D-manose, D-glucuronic acid, Schoener GmbH), Deuteron ^® -XN (non-ionic polysaccharide, Schoener GmbH), dicrylan ^® thickener-O (ethylene oxide adduct, 50% in water / isopropanol, Pfersse Chemie), EMA ^® -81 and EMA ^® -91 (ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymer, Monsanto), thickener-QR-1001 (polyurethane emulsion , 19-21% in water / diglycol ether, Rohm & Haas), Mirox ^® -AM (anionic acrylic acid-acrylic ester copolymer dispersion, 25% in water, Stockhausen), SER-AD-FX-1100 (hydrophobic urethane polymer, Servo Delden), Shellflo ^® -S (high molecular polysaccharide, stabilized with formaldehyde, Shell), Shellflo ^® -XA (xanthan biopolymer, stabilized with formaldehyde, Shell), Kelzan, Keltrol T (Kelco), Sepigel ^® 305 (INCI name : Polyacrylamide (and) C ₁₃ -Cι ₄ -soparaffin (and) Laureth-7) (SEPPIC) offered.

A further increase in viscosity can also be achieved by adding electrolytes (neutral salts). Examples of such salts are the alkali halides, in particular chlorides, alkali hydrogen carbonates, alkali sulfates and alkali phosphates, sodium chloride and sodium sulfate being particularly preferred.

The cream base according to the invention is particularly suitable for the production of coloring creams which can be used for dyeing fibers containing keratin.

Keratin-containing fibers are wool, furs, feathers and in particular human hair. In principle, however, the colorants according to the invention can also be used for dyeing other natural fibers, such as, for. As cotton, jute, sisal, linen or silk, modified natural fibers, such as. B. regenerated cellulose, nitro, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl or acetyl cellulose and synthetic fibers such as. B. polyamide, polyacrylonitrile, polyurethane and polyester fibers can be used.

For this purpose, any coloring components can be incorporated into the cream base, for example direct dyes or Oxidation dye precursors which, as already explained above, form the oxidation dyes by oxidatively coupling one or more developer components to one another or with one or more coupler components on the hair.

Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group which is in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof are usually used as developer components used.

Specific representatives are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2 ', 5'-diami.nophenyl) ethanol, 2- (2 ', 5'-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-aminopyrazolone-5, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- Aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyhmidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine and 2,5,6-triamino 4-hydroxypyrimidine.

M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols and substituted pyridine derivatives are generally used as coupler components. Particularly suitable coupler substances are α-naphthol, 1, 5-, 2,7- and 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinomino methyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 2,4 -Diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -anisole (Lehmanns Blau), 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazol-5-one, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 3-amino-6- methoxy-2-methylamino-pyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine.

The cream base can be conventional substantive dyes, e.g. B. from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as. B. under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds as well as picramic acid 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine -2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 4-N-ethyl-1, 4-bis- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride and 1- Methyl-3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene can be added. The preparations according to the invention can furthermore also contain naturally occurring dyes, such as those contained in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.

With regard to further customary dye components, reference is expressly made to the “Dermatology” series, edited by Ch. Culnan, H. Maibach, publisher Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, vol. 7, Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chap. 7, pages 248 - 250 (direct dyes), and chap. 8, pages 264 - 267 (oxidation dyes), as well as the "European Inventory of Cosmetic Raw Materials", 1996, published by the European Commission, available in disk form from the Federal Association of German Industrial and Commercial Enterprises for Medicines, Health Care Products and Personal Care Products, Mannheim ,

Furthermore, the cream bases produced according to the invention can contain cationic surfactants as well as active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the cream bases according to the invention are in particular quaternary ammonium compounds. Ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, for. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. The quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.

Also suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxyl-amtπσ-mO-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone) will), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).

In addition to a good conditioning effect, alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines such as the ^{stearylamidopropyldimethylamine} available under the name Tego Amid ^® S 18, are notable for their good biodegradability. Also very good biodegradability are quaternary Esterverbindungen, so-called "esterquats", kyldialkoyloxyalkylammoniummethosulfate such as those sold under the trademark Stepantex ^® Methylhydroxyal-.

An example of a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercial product Glucquat ^® 100, according to CTFA nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".

Examples of other additives are: nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidoneΛ inylacetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, dimethyldioxylammonium chloride, monolamino-dimethylchloride-monolamino-chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, dimethyldioxylammonium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, monomethyl-ammonium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, monomethyl-ammonium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, -methyl-ammonium chloride-dimethyl-monolamyl-ammonium chloride -methyl-ammonium-chloride-monolamino-chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-monoloyl-ammonium chloride, -methyl-dimethyl-amyl-ammonium chloride -dimethyl-monolamyl chloride type quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-imidazolinium methochloride

Copolymers and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers such as, for example, acrylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids, crosslinked vinyl acrylic acid Copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic acid anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert.-butylacrylamide terpolymers, structurants such as glucose and maleic acid compounds , for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephaline, and silicone oils,

Protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,

Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine and zinc omadine, other substances for adjusting the pH value,

Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and their salts, plant extracts and vitamins, cholesterol, Light stabilizers,

Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, imidazoles, tannins, pyrrole, opacifiers such as latex,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate,

Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air as well as antioxidants.

For the coloring result it can be advantageous to add ammonium or metal salts to the coloring creams. Suitable metal salts are e.g. B. formates, carbonates, halides, sulfates, butyrates, valerates, capronates, acetates, lactates, glycolates, tartrates, citrates, gluconates, propionates, phosphates and phosphonates of alkali metals, such as potassium, sodium or lithium, alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, Caicium, strontium or barium, or of aluminum, manganese, iron, cobalt, copper or zinc, with sodium acetate, lithium bromide, calcium bromide, calcium gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, ammonium carbonate, chloride and acetate being preferred. These salts are preferably present in an amount of 0.03 to 65, in particular 1 to 40, mmol based on 100 g of the ready-to-use dye preparation.

The pH of the ready-to-use coloring preparations is usually between 2 and 12, preferably between 4 and 10.

Another object of the present invention is a process for the preparation of a cream base, which is suitable as a cream base for hair colorants, in which by means of cold / cold process in a manner known per se an emulsion of components a) 1 to 15 wt .-% straight-chain or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alcohols or alcohol mixtures which are liquid at temperatures above 15 ° C or are soluble in the other formulation components, b) 0.1 to 10% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, c) 2 to 15 wt .-% Cι ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid / fatty acid soap and d) if necessary, other conventional ingredients and water to 100 wt .-% is produced.

To carry out the process according to the invention, the individual components should be liquid at room temperature, preferably at temperatures above 15 ° C., or be soluble in the other recipe components. The viscosity can be adjusted by adding suitable thickeners or by using a special combination of surfactants, such as a combination of anionic or nonionic surfactants with a thickening effect, with zwitterionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, alkanolamides or amine oxides. Creams with sufficient viscosity are obtained, the viscosity of which does not decrease or only decreases to a minor extent even when heated.

Examples

The emulsion was prepared using a toothed disk stirrer at room temperature (1000-2000 rpm).

Water, isostearic acid and fatty alcohol ether sulfate were initially introduced and neutralized with ammonia (25%). This was followed by the addition of the oil components (stearyl alcohol, paraffin oil, Cetiol ^® OE) and then the thickener (Structure ^® Zea, Sepigel ^® 305, Ultrez ^® 10). After incorporation of the amphoteric surfactant (cocamidopropyl betaine), the dyes in dissolved form and the finishing agents (Merquat ^® 3330, Abil ^® Quat 3270, Croquat ^® L) were added. If necessary, stearyl alcohol was added to further adjust the viscosity.

Cetiol ^® OE dicapryl ether (commercially available from Cognis Germany

GmbH) Eumulgin ^® L PPG-1-PEG-9 laurylglycolether (commercially available from Cognis

Deutschland GmbH) Eumulgin ^® HRE 40 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (commercially available from Cognis

Deutschland GmbH) Dehyton ^® AB 30 Dimethylkokosalkylammoniumbetain (commercially available from

Cognis Deutschland GmbH) Sepigel ^® 305 copolymer made from acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (INCI name: polyacrylamide (and)

Ci3-C ₁₄ -lsoparaffιn (and) Laureth-7) (commercially available from

SEPPIC)

Structure ^® ZEA phosphated hydroxypropyl starch Ultrez ^® 10 polyacrylate carbomer (commercially available from Goodrich)) Aculyn ^® 22 methacrylic acid (stearyl alcohol + 20-EO ester) -acrylic acid-

copolymer

Aculyn ^® 44 Steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer (Rohm and Haas) Merquat ^® 3330 polyquaternium-39 (commercially available from Calgon) Abil ^® Quat 3270 Quaternium-80 (manufactured by Goldschmidt) Croquat ^® L Lauryldimonium-hydroxypropyl-hydrolisietes collagen, Manufacturer

Croda Oleochemicals)

Claims

claims

1. Cream base, which can be produced by means of cold / cold processes and contains a) 1 to 15 wt .-% straight-chain or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alcohols or alcohol mixtures which are liquid at temperatures above 15 ° C or in the other formulation constituents are soluble, b) 0.1 to 10% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, c) 2 to 15% by weight of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid / fatty acid soap, and d) any other usual ingredients and water to 100% by weight.

2. Cream base according to claim 1, characterized in that component a) is contained in an amount of 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 3 to 8 wt .-%, based on the finished cream base.

3. Cream base according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic surfactants are selected from C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol ether sulfates with 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units in the molecule, C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol ether carboxylic acids, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl sulfates, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl sulfonates, salts of N-acylated amino acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the acyl radical and mixtures thereof.

4. Cream base according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants are selected from alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, alkoxylated, preferably ethoxylated, triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

5. Cream base according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that component b) in an amount of 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably in an amount of 3 to 6 wt .-%, based on the finished cream base is included.

6. Cream base according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that component c) is selected from isostearic acid, oleic acid and elaidic acid or their mixtures or their neutralized soaps.

7. cream base according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, dialkanolamides, amine oxides and / or polyethylene glycol ether in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably in one Amount of 1.5 to 4.5 wt .-%, based on the finished cream base, are included.

8. Cream base according to claim 7, characterized in that a combination of C ₈ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol ether sulfates with 2 to 4 EO and zwitterionic surfactants, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine, is included.

9. cream base according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it contains thickening additives in an amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%.

10. A process for the preparation of a cream base which is suitable as a cream base for hair colorants, in which, in a manner known per se, an emulsion composed of components a) from 1) to 15% by weight of straight-chain or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ -Alcohols or alcohol mixtures which are liquid at temperatures above 15 ° C or are soluble in the other recipe components, b) 0.1 to 10 wt .-% anionic and / or nonionic surfactants, c) 2 to 15 wt .-% Cι ₆ -C ₂₂ - fatty acid / fatty acid soap and d) optionally other conventional ingredients and water to 100 wt .-% is produced.