WO2002034276A2

WO2002034276A2 - Use of the association of at least a plant extract of the genus camellia and of at least a carotenoid

Info

Publication number: WO2002034276A2
Application number: PCT/FR2001/003316
Authority: WO
Inventors: Lionel Breton; Markus Baur
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2000-10-26
Filing date: 2001-10-25
Publication date: 2002-05-02
Also published as: FR2815862A1; AU2002214103A1; WO2002034276A3; FR2815862B1

Abstract

The invention concerns the use of the association of at least a plant extract of the genus Camellia and of at least a carotenoid to fight against collagen degradation and hence to fight against degradation of the skin and/or of mucous membranes by collagenase inhibition.

Description

Use of the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid

The invention relates to the use of the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid to combat the degradation of collagen and thus combat the degradation of the skin and / or mucous membranes by inhibiting collagenases and / or synthesizing collagen.

The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

In mammals in general, particularly in humans, the skin consists of two compartments, namely a compartment in relation to the outside, the epidermis, and a deep compartment which serves to support the epidermis, the dermis. -

The natural epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells which are the keratinocytes, very majority, the melanocytes and the Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin.

The dermis provides the epidermis with solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It mainly consists of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix itself composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance, known as the fundamental substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast. There are also leukocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. It is also crossed by blood vessels and nerve fibers. In normal skin, that is to say non-pathological or scarring, the fibroblast is in a quiescent state, that is to say non-proliferative, not very active from a metabolic point of view and not mobile.

Collagen fibers largely ensure the solidity of the dermis. These fibers are made up of fibrils sealed to each other, thus forming more than ten different types of structures. The solidity of the dermis is largely due to the entanglement of collagen fibers packed against each other in all directions. Collagen fibers participate in the elasticity and especially in the tone of the skin and / or mucous membranes. The collagen fibers are constantly renewed but this renewal decreases with age which leads to thinning of the dermis. This thinning of the dermis is also due to pathological causes such as for example the hypersecretion of corticosteroid hormones, certain pathologies or vitamin deficiencies. It is also recognized that extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet rays, tobacco or certain treatments (glucocorticoids, vitamin D and derivatives for example) also have an effect on the skin and its collagen level.

However, various factors cause the degradation of collagen, with all the consequences that can be envisaged on the structure and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

Although very resistant, collagen fibers are sensitive to certain enzymes called collagenases. Degradation of collagen fibers results in the appearance of soft, wrinkled skin that has always been sought to combat, particularly in humans, preferring the appearance of smooth and taut skin.

Collagenases are part of a family of enzymes called metalloproteinases (MMPs) which are themselves members of a family of proteolytic enzymes (endoproteases) which have a zinc atom coordinated to 3 cysteine residues and a methionine in their active site and which degrade the macromolecular components of the extracellular matrix and basal laminae at neutral pH (collagen, elastin, etc.). Very widespread in the living world, these enzymes are present, but weakly expressed, in normal physiological situations such as organ growth and tissue renewal.

Their overexpression and activation are however linked to many processes, sometimes pathological, which involve the destruction and reshaping of the matrix. This either leads to an uncontrolled resorption of the extracellular matrix, or conversely the establishment of a state of fibrosis.

The family of metalloproteinases is made up of several well-defined groups based on their similarities in terms of structure and substrate specificity (see Woessner JF, Faseb Journal, vol. 5, 1991, 2145). Among these groups, there may be mentioned collagenases intended to degrade fibrillar collagens (MMP-1 or interstitial collagenase, MMP-8 or neutrophil collagenase, MMP-13 or collagenase 3), gelatinases which degrade collagen type IV or any form of denatured collagen (MMP-2 or gelatinase A (72 kDa), MMP-9 or gelatinase B (92 kDa)), stromelysins (MMP-3), the broad spectrum of activity of which targets proteins in the extracellular matrix such as glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin) , proteoglycans, etc., or even membrane metalloproteinases. Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly type A and / or B ultraviolet radiation, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, particularly MMP-1. This is one of the components of photo-induced skin aging.

In addition to the menopause, the main modifications concerning the dermis are a reduction in the collagen level and the dermal thickness. This leads in menopausal women to thinning of the skin and / or mucous membranes. The woman then feels a feeling of "dry skin" or of skin that pulls and there is an accentuation of wrinkles and fine lines on the surface. The skin has a rough appearance on palpation. Finally, the skin has reduced flexibility.

We then understand from reading the above the importance of collagen in the structure of tissues, particularly of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and the importance of combating its degradation so as to combat the signs skin of aging, whether chronological or photo-induced, and its consequences, such as thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen fibers, which cause the appearance of soft and wrinkled skin.

One of the aims of the present invention is therefore to be able to have a product which makes it possible to treat, in mammals in general, particularly in humans, preventively and / or curatively, the cutaneous signs of aging, whether it be chronobiological or photo-induced, particularly thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen fibers, by a stimulating effect on collagen synthesis and / or a collagenase inhibiting effect and if possible no significant side effects.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has now discovered that the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid makes it possible to preventively and / or curatively treat the cutaneous signs of aging, whether chronological or photo-induced, particularly thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen, by a stimulating effect on collagen synthesis and / or a collagenase inhibiting effect.

A remarkable property of the combination of the invention is that it has effects in greater proportions than those reasonably expected from the simple addition of the effects of each of these components taken separately.

An advantage of this property is to allow a use in the composition of the invention of an amount of each of the products less than what is generally accepted to use.

To the knowledge of the applicant, the use of the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and / or the inhibitory activity of this association of collagenase activity has never been described.

Thus, the primary object of the invention is the use of the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the combination or the composition being intended to combat collagen degradation and / or stimulate the synthesis of collagen.

We saw before in the text how much collagen is essential in the structuring of the skin and how much a degradation or a reduction in its quantity has consequences, particularly cutaneous. These phenomena appear mainly during prolonged exposures to ultraviolet radiation, during chronological and / or actinic aging or even in women during menopause.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the combination or composition being intended to inhibit the expression of proteases of the extracellular matrix, particularly metalloproteinases and even more particularly metalloproteinase type 1.

Another subject of the invention is the use of the combination of at least one extract at least one plant of the genus Camellia and at least one carotenoid in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the combination or the composition being intended to treat skin disorders linked to aging, in particular skin disorders of menopause.

Thus, the subject of the invention is the use of the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, l the combination or the composition being intended to treat, preventively and / or curatively, the cutaneous signs of aging such as for example wrinkles and fine lines, withered skin, mole skin, thinned skin, dull and dull skin, the lack of skin tone, but also all internal modifications of the skin which do not systematically result in a modified external appearance, particularly the modifications resulting from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

Whatever the intended use of the invention, it can be preventive and / or curative to the harm it aims to treat.

It is obvious that the invention is intended for mammals in general and particularly for human beings.

By carotenoid is meant according to the invention both a carotenoid with provitamin A activity, and a carotenoid without provitamin A activity.

Of course according to the invention, the carotenoid can be a mixture of carotenoids with provitamin A activity and carotenoids without provitamin A activity. This mixture can be in any proportion.

According to the invention, the carotenoid with provitamin A activity can be a mixture of carotenoids with provitamin A activity. This mixture can be in any proportion. Among the carotenoids with provitamin A activity, there may be mentioned, for example, β-carotene or α-carotene.

According to the invention, the carotenoid without provitamin A activity can be a mixture of carotenoids without provitamin A activity. This mixture can be in any proportion. Among the carotenoids without provitamin A activity, there may be mentioned by way of example zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, lutein or lycopene. The carotenoid used according to the invention can be of natural or synthetic origin.

By natural origin is meant the carotenoid, in the pure state or in solution whatever its concentration in said solution, obtained from a natural element.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an extract rich in. lycopene, such as a tomato extract.

By synthetic origin is meant the carotenoid, in the pure state or in solution whatever its concentration in said solution, obtained by chemical synthesis.

When the carotenoid is of natural origin, it can be obtained from plant material from a whole plant grown in vivo or from in vitro culture.

The term “in vivo culture” means any culture of the conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or even above ground.

The term “in vitro culture” means all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially make it possible to obtain a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by physicochemical conditions during the growth of plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material available throughout the year, unlike plants cultivated in vivo.

Preferably according to the invention, a plant derived from culture in vivo is used.

Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the carotenoid used according to the invention.

The carotenoid can be in alcoholic solution, in particular ethanolic.

The carotenoid can also be in lipid (oil) or lipoalcoholic solution.

The preferred carotenoids according to the invention are β-carotene and lycopene.

Very preferably, lycopene is used. Lycopene is a natural pigment found in ripe fruit, especially in tomatoes. It belongs to the carotenoid family and its structure is close to that of β-carotene. It can be in cis or trans form. The role of lycopene in the ripening of fruits is known in the prior art. Lycopene is used in compositions with bronzing activity for its role on the synthesis of melanin (WO 97/47278), in compositions intended for the treatment of the hair and / or acne for its activity on 5α-reductases ( JP-2940964) or as an anti-radical agent (JP-A- 8-283136.

By way of example, according to the invention, a tomato extract rich in lycopene is used, prepared by the company Métaphar, marketed under the name LycOMato® consisting of an oleoresin extract (fatty phase) containing 6% of pure lycopene. .

One can also use according to the invention any preparation containing lycopene having the objective of improving the bioavailability of the latter.

The amount of carotenoid that can be used according to the invention is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent.

To give an order of magnitude, in the composition according to the invention the carotenoid in the pure state is in an amount representing from 10 ^"12 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably in an amount representing from 10 ^{" 10} % to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

Obviously, a person skilled in the art, if he uses the carotenoid in the form of a solution, a plant extract for example, knows how to adjust the amount of solution he uses in its composition so that the final amount of carotenoid in the composition is in agreement with the usable quantities previously defined.

The genus Camellia (also also known as Theaceae) comprises at least 80 species among which the species Camellia cuspidata, Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia reticulata, Camellia saluensis or even Camellia sinensis can be mentioned.

For each of these species, numerous varieties have been identified. It is understood that the invention relates to plants of the genus Camellia whatever the variety.

The extracts of plants of the genus Camellia, in addition to their taste properties, are known for their anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic effects.

The expression “extract from at least one plant of the genus Camellia” is understood to mean both a crude mixture of parts of the plant roughly reduced to pieces and of the extraction solvent as well as elaborate preparations of the active principles dissolved during the extraction.

The extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia used according to the invention can be obtained from plant material obtained from a whole plant or part of a plant such as the leaves, stems, flowers, petals, roots or still dedifferentiated cells.

By dedifferentiated plant cells is meant any plant cell having none of the characteristics of a particular specialization and capable of living by itself and not in dependence on other cells.

Preferably according to the invention, the whole plant is used, particularly the stem and / or the leaves, very particularly the leaves.

The extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia can be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from at least one plant of the genus Camellia cultivated in vivo or derived from culture in vitro.

The definition of in vivo culture and that of in vitro culture are the same as those given above.

Preferably according to the invention, a plant of the genus Camellia from an in vivo culture is used, very preferably a plant extract from the species Camellia sinensis from an in vivo culture.

Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia according to the invention.

Mention may, in particular, be made of alcoholic extracts, especially ethanolic or even hydroalcoholic. Preferably according to the invention, the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia is an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract.

One can also use an extract prepared by the method described in French patent application No. 95-02379 filed by the applicant.

Thus, in a first step, the plant material is ground in a cold aqueous solution and in a second step, the particles in suspension are removed from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step. This aqueous solution corresponds to the extract. Optionally, in a third step, the aqueous solution from the second step is sterilized.

This extract can then be lyophilized.

The first step can advantageously be replaced by a simple freezing operation of the plant tissues (for example at -20 ° C or even at -180 ° C in liquid nitrogen), followed by an aqueous extraction repeating the second and third steps described above.

The cold treatment makes it possible to freeze the enzymatic activities of the oxidases present in the plant cell, the sterilizing filtration avoids the degradation of the active ingredients by the microorganisms of the environment. Finally, the water vehicle is compatible with ex vivo receptors and facilitates cosmetic or pharmaceutical formulations.

It is known that plant extracts contain oxidases responsible, among other things, for the oxidation of said extracts. However, such an oxidation leads to a dark brown coloration of the extracts and to a pungent odor making them not very compatible with their use in cosmetics. In this connection, a laccase is known in particular whose molecular weight is greater than 100,000 daltons.

Thus, advantageously, the extract obtained can be fractionated by any known fractionation method making it possible to eliminate the oxidases and in particular the polyphenoloxidase. One can for example filter the extract of the invention on a dialysis membrane in order to remove the molecules with a molecular weight greater than 100,000 daltons. It is also possible to subject the extract to fractionation by selective precipitation. Other methods make it possible to guard against the phenomena of oxidation. In particular, the extract can also be stabilized. Any known stabilization method can be used according to the invention. One can for example stabilize the extract of the invention by bubbling nitrogen to remove the dissolved oxygen or by adding cysteine and / or sulfur derivatives to a final concentration between 0.5 g / 1 and 10 g / l and preferably between 1 g / l and 2.5 g / l.

Obviously the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia according to the invention can be fractionated and stabilized.

Preferably, according to the invention, an aqueous extract of plant leaf of the species Camellia sinensis, sold by the company Flachsmann under the name "Green tea extract powder", reference No. 103471, is used.

The amount of extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia which can be used according to the invention is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent.

To give an order of magnitude, in the composition of the invention, the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia, perhaps in an amount representing from 0.001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention can be in any conceivable dosage form, suitable for both topical application to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair as for administration by the oral route. Preferably, the composition of the invention is intended for administration by the oral route.

The composition of the invention can be a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Preferably according to the invention, the composition is a cosmetic composition. The composition is a cosmetic composition because it is intended to improve the general cutaneous appearance of the individual who uses it. Very preferably the composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition intended for administration by the oral route.

For administration by the oral route, the composition of the invention can be present in all suitable forms, particularly in the form of an oral solution, a syrup, a tablet, a dragee, a capsule, a capsule or a nutritional food or a nutritional supplement.

Said composition can also comprise at least one suitable excipient suitable for oral administration.

For administration by topical application to the skin, hair and / or mucous membranes, the composition according to the invention obviously comprises a cosmetically acceptable support, that is to say a support compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails, the hair and can be in all dosage forms normally used for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, d '' an aqueous or oily gel, of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, of an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or better lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product, as a cleaning product, as a makeup product or even as a simple deodorant product.

In known manner, the composition of the invention may contain the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers , filters, pigments, chelating agents, odor absorbers and coloring matter. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields considered, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles. When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% of the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

As oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils, oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and oils. fluorinated (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, waxes (beeswax) can also be used as fats.

As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, cite modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.

The composition can contain other hydrophilic active agents such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, plant extracts and hydroxy acids.

As lipophilic active agents, retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, α-tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives (esters, salts, etc.), essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential oils, can be used, salicylic acid and its derivatives or vitamins B1, B6 and / or B12.

It is also possible to use in the composition of the invention vitamin C (or ascorbic acid) and its derivatives (esters, salts, etc.). It is also possible to add a plant extract rich in isoflavonoids, such as for example the soy extract (Glycina max) available from Archer Daniels Midland Company under the name Novasoy®.

A preferred composition of the invention comprises, among other ingredients, the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid, a plant extract rich in isoflavonoids, vitamin C and the α-tocopherol.

Even more preferably, the composition of the invention comprises, among other ingredients, the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of lycopene, of soy extract (Novasoy® from the company Archer Daniels Midland Company), vitamin C and α-tocopherol acetate.

It is also possible to use, in addition, in the composition of the invention, compounds chosen from

- trace elements; - plant hormones;

- calcium antagonists, such as verapamil and Diltiazem;

- OH radical sensors, such as dimethylsulfoxide;

- chlorine channel openers;

- extracts of plants other than those of Camellia such as those of Iridaceae, Rosaceae or Rosmarinus;

- extracts of micro-organisms including in particular bacterial extracts such as those of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria;

To the above list, other compounds can also be added, namely for example potassium channel openers such as diazoxide and minoxidil, spiroxazone, phospholipids such as lecithin, linoleic and linolenic acids, salicylic acid and its derivatives described in French patent FR 2,581,542, such as derivatives of salicylic acid carrying an alkanoyl group having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms in position 5 of the benzene ring, hydroxycarboxylic or cetocarboxylic acids and their esters, lactones and their corresponding salts, anthralin, carotenoids, eicosatetraenoic and eicosatrienoic acids or their esters and amides, vitamin D and its derivatives. According to the invention, it is possible, among other things, to add to the composition of the invention other active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions. Among these active agents, there may be mentioned by way of example: - agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation such as retinoic acid and its isomers, vitamin D and its derivatives, estrogens such as estradiol, kojic acid or hydroquinone;

- antibacterials such as clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin or antibiotics of the tetracycline class;

- agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes such as honey, in particular acacia honey and certain sugar derivatives;

- antiparasitics, in particular metronidazole, crotamiton or pyrethroids; - antifungals, in particular compounds belonging to the class of imidazoles such as econazole, ketoconazole or miconazole or their salts, polyene compounds, such as amphotericin B, compounds of the allylamine family, such as terbinafine, or octopirox;

- antiviral agents such as acyclovir; - steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, such as hydrocortisone, betamethasone valerate or clobetasol propionate, or non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as ibuprofen and its salts, diclofenac and its salts, acetylsalicylic acid , acetaminophen or glycyrrhetinic acid;

- anesthetic agents such as lidocaine hydrochloride and its derivatives; - antipruritic agents such as thenaldine, trimeprazine or cyproheptadine;

- Keratolytic agents such as alpha- and beta-hydroxycarboxylic or beta-ketocarboxylic acids, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and generally fruit acids, and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid;

- anti-free radical agents such as superoxide dismutases or certain metal chelators;

- anti-seborrheic drugs such as progesterone; - anti-dandruff agents such as octopirox or zinc pyrithione;

- anti-acne drugs such as retinoic acid or benzoyl peroxide.

- substances such as substance P, CGRP or bradykinin antagonists or NO synthase inhibitors or even inhibitors of sodium channels, compounds described as being active in the treatment of sensitive skin and as having anti-irritant effects, in particular with regard to irritant compounds possibly present in the compositions.

As active agents, moisturizers such as polyols (for example glycerin), vitamins (for example D-panthenol), anti-inflammatory agents, soothing agents (allantoin, blueberry water), filters can be used UVA and UVB, matting agents (for example partially crosslinked polydimethylorganosiloxanes sold under the name KSG® by Shin Etsu) and their mixtures.

Anti-wrinkle active agents can also be added, and in particular tensing products such as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, in particular the soy protein extract sold under the name Eleseryl® by the company LSN or the oat derivative sold. under the name Reductine® by the company Silab.

Since the skin is made up of many other components than collagen and fibroblasts, it turns out to be advantageous, when using the combination of the invention, to promote at the same time the synthesis of these other components such as for example lipids and / or promote the proliferation of other cellular components such as, for example, keratinocytes.

Thus, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid and at least one other product stimulating the lipid synthesis and / or proliferation of keratinocytes.

In this composition, the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and the carotenoid can be as described previously in the text.

Mention may be made, as product stimulating the synthesis of lipids, plant hormones, such as auxins, or compounds of plant origin, such as cinnamic acid, and as product stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes of compounds of plant origin, such as phloroglucinol. .

Thus, the compositions according to the invention can comprise, in addition to the combination of the invention, cinnamic acid or its derivatives and / or a plant hormone, particularly an auxin chosen from acid. indolacetic (IAA), 4-chloroindole-3-acetic acid (4-CI-IAA), phenylacetic acid (PAA), indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), 2,4- acid dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), α-naphthalene acetic acid (α-NAA), β-naphthoxyacetic acid, indole ethanol, idol acetaldehyde and indole acetonitrile and / or a plant compound such as phloroglucinol.

The subject of the invention is also the use of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid and of at least one other product stimulating lipid synthesis and / or proliferation keratinocytes in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the combination or the composition being intended to treat, preventively and / or curatively, the cutaneous signs of aging, to combat collagen degradation, to inhibit the expression of the extracellular matrix proteases, to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinases, particularly metalloproteinase type 1, to treat skin disorders linked to menopause, to fight against fine lines and wrinkles, to fight against withered skin, to fight against soft skin, fight against thinned skin, fight against dull and / or dull skin, fight against lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, protect against internal damage to the skin following exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin intended to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and / or fight against skin disorders linked to age and / or menopause and / or fight against thinning. of the dermis and / or combat the appearance of soft and / or wrinkled skin, characterized in that it is applied to the skin, to the hair, and / or to the mucous membranes or that a cosmetic composition is ingested comprising at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and at least one carotenoid.

The cosmetic treatment process of the invention can be implemented in particular by applying the cosmetic compositions as defined above, according to the technique of usual use of these compositions. For example: application of creams, gels, serums, lotions, milks, shampoos or anti-sun compositions, on the skin, or on the hair or application of toothpaste on the gums and preferably by administration by oral route of an oral solution, a syrup, a tablet, a dragee, a capsule, a capsule or a food nutritional or nutritional supplement.

The following examples and compositions illustrate the invention without limiting it in any way. In the compositions the proportions indicated are percentages by weight.

Example 1: Examples of formulations illustrating the invention and particularly the compositions according to the invention. These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components.

Composition 1 - Soft capsules:

Excipients:

Soybean oil 40 mg

Wheat Germ Oil 85 mg Soy Lecithins 25 mg

Vitamin:

Natural Tocopherols 3 mg

Components: Camellia Sinensis extract 50 mg

Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 175 mg

Composition 2: Lotion Extract of Camellia Sinensis 1, 00%

Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 10 ^"3 %

Antioxidant 0.05%

Isopropanol 40.00%

Preservative 0.30% Water qs 100.00%

Composition 3: Shampoo

Camellia Sinensis extract 1, 00%

Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 10 ^"5 % Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H ^® sold by the company Hercules) 1.00%

Perfume 0.50%

Preservative 0.30%

Water qs 100.00% Composition 4: Care cream (oil in water emulsion)

Camellia Sinensis extract 2.00%

Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 10 ^"2 % Glycerol stearate 2.00%

Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 ^® sold by the company ICI) 1.00%

Stearic acid 1.40%

Triethanolamine 0.70%

Carbomer 0.40% Liquid fraction of shea butter 12.00%

Perhydrosqualene 12.00%

Antioxidant 0.05%

Perfume 0.50%

Preservative 0.30% Water qs 100.00%

Composition 5: Gel for the skin

Camellia Sinensis 1 extract, 50%

Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 10 ^"2 % All trans retinoic acid 0.05%

Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H ^® sold by the company Hercules) 1.00%

Antioxidant 0.05%

Isopropanol 40.00%

Preservative 0.30% Water qs 100.00%

Composition 6: Gel for facial care

Camellia Sinensis extract 1, 00%

Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 10 ^"3 % Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel H ^® sold by the company Hercules) 1.00%

Antioxidant 0.05%

Isopropanol 40.00%

Preservative 0.30%

Water qs 100.00%

Composition 7: Care cream (oil-in-water emulsion)

Camellia Sinensis extract 3.00% Lycopene 6% (Lycomato® from Lycored) 10 ^'2 %

Glycerol stearate 2.00%

Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 ^® sold by the company ICI) 1.00%

Stearic acid 1.40%

Glycyrrhetinic acid 2.00%

Triethanolamine 0.70%

Carbomer 0.40%

Liquid fraction of shea butter 12.00%

Sunflower oil 10.00%

Antioxidant 0.05%

Perfume 0.50%

Preservative 0.30%

Water qs 100.00%

Claims

1. Use of the association of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the association or the composition being intended for fight against collagen degradation and / or stimulate collagen synthesis.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to inhibit the expression of the proteases of the extracellular matrix.

3. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinases.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinase type 1.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended for treating skin disorders linked to menopause.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to fight against withered skin.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to fight against soft skin.

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to fight against thinned skin.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to fight against the skin dull and / or dull.

10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to combat the lack of skin tone.

11. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the combination or the composition are intended to combat internal degradations of the skin consecutive to exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

12. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the carotenoid is a carotenoid with provitamin A activity or a carotenoid without provitamin A activity or a mixture of the two.

13. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the carotenoid with provitamin A activity is chosen from β-carotene or α-carotene or a mixture of these.

14. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that the carotenoid without provitamin A activity is chosen from zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, lutein or lycopene or a mixture of these.

15. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the carotenoids is chosen from β-carotene or lycopene.

16. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the carotenoid is preferably lycopene.

17. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that the carotenoids in the pure state is in an amount representing from 10 ^"1 ' ² % to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

18. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the carotenoids in the pure state is in an amount representing from 10 ^"10 % to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

19. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia is prepared from plant material derived from whole plant or part of plant such as the leaves , stems, flowers, petals, roots or even dedifferentiated cells.

20. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 19, characterized in that the plant material comes from the leaves.

21. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that the plant material is derived from at least one plant of the genus Camellia cultivated in vivo or derived from culture in vitro.

22. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that the plant material is derived from at least one plant of the genus Camellia cultivated in vivo.

23. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia is an aqueous extract.

24. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia is in an amount representing from 0.001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

25. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia is in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition .

25. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 24, characterized in that the composition is administered by the oral route.

26. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oral solution, a syrup, a tablet, a dragee, a capsule, capsule or nutritional food or nutritional supplement.

27. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 26, characterized in that the composition also comprises a plant extract rich in isoflavonoids.

28. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 27, characterized in that the composition also comprises vitamin C.

29. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 28, characterized in that the composition also comprises α-tocopherol.

30. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 29, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia, lycopene, a plant extract rich in isoflavonoids, vitamin C and α-tocopherol.

31. A method of cosmetic treatment of the skin intended to combat skin damage at menopause and / or fight against thinning of the dermis and / or combat the appearance of soft and wrinkled skin, characterized in that the it is applied to the skin, the hair, and / or the mucous membranes, or that a cosmetic composition is ingested comprising at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and at least one carotenoid.

32. Composition, characterized in that it comprises the combination of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid and at least one other product stimulating the synthesis of lipids and / or the proliferation of keratinocytes.

33. Composition according to claim 32, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia is as described in any one of claims 19 to 25.

34. Composition according to any one of claims 32 or 33, characterized in that the carotenoid is as described in any one of claims 12 to 18.

35. Composition according to any one of claims 32 to 34, characterized in that the product stimulating the synthesis of lipids is chosen from plant hormones, such as auxins, or compounds of plant origin, such as cinnamic acid. or its derivatives.

36. Composition according to any one of claims 32 to 35, characterized in that the auxin is chosen from indolacetic acid (IAA), 4-chloroindole-3-acetic acid (4-CI-IAA) , phenylacetic acid (PAA), indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D), α-naphthalene acetic acid (α-NAA), l β-naphthoxyacetic acid, indole ethanol, idol acetaldehyde and indole acetonitrile

37. Composition according to any one of claims 32 to 36, characterized in that the product stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes is phloroglucinol.

38. Use of at least one extract of at least one plant of the genus Camellia and of at least one carotenoid and of at least one other product stimulating the synthesis of lipids and / or the proliferation of keratinocytes in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the combination or the composition being intended to treat, preventively and / or curatively, the cutaneous signs of aging, to combat collagen degradation, to inhibit the expression of matrix proteases extracellular, to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinases, particularly metalloproteinase type 1, to treat skin disorders related to menopause, to fight against fine lines and wrinkles, to fight against withered skin, to fight against soft skin, to fight against thinned skin, fight against dull and / or dull skin, fight against lack of elasticity and / or skin tone, fight against degradation s internal skin following exposure to ultraviolet radiation.