FR2821549A1 - Use of a carotenoid to increase dermal collagen and lessen or prevent signs of cutaneous aging - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of a carotenoid, other than lycopene, in compositions for the treatment of signs of cutaneous aging is new.

Description

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The invention relates to the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended for treating the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular the degradation of the skin and / or mucous membranes by inhibiting the activity and / or expression of collagenases and by increasing the synthesis of collagen.

l'extérieur, l'épiderme, et un compartiment profond qui sert de soutien à l'épiderme, le derme. In mammals in general, particularly in humans, the skin consists of two compartments, namely a compartment in relation to

the outside, the epidermis, and a deep compartment which supports the epidermis, the dermis.

The natural epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells which are the keratinocytes, very majority, the melanocytes and the Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin.

The dermis provides the epidermis with solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It mainly consists of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix itself composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance, known as the fundamental substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast. There are also leukocytes, mast cells or tissue macrophages. It is also crossed by blood vessels and nerve fibers. In normal skin, that is to say non-pathological or scarring, the fibroblast is in a quiescent state, that is to say non-proliferative, not very active from a metabolic point of view and not mobile.

Collagen fibers largely ensure the solidity of the dermis. These fibers are made up of fibrils sealed to each other, thus forming more than ten different types of structures. The solidity of the dermis is largely due to the entanglement of collagen fibers packed against each other in all directions. Collagen fibers also participate in elasticity and especially in the tone of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

The collagen fibers are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, which leads to thinning and structural damage to the dermis. This thinning of the dermis is also due to pathological causes such as for example the hypersecretion of corticosteroid hormones, certain pathologies or vitamin deficiencies. he is also

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les conséquences que l'on peut envisager sur la structure et/ou la fermeté de la peau et/ou des muqueuses. admitted that extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet rays, tobacco or certain treatments (glucocorticoids, vitamin D and derivatives for example) also have an effect on the skin and its collagen level. However, various factors cause the breakdown of collagen, with all

the consequences that can be envisaged on the structure and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

Although very resistant, collagen fibers are sensitive to certain enzymes called collagenases. Degradation of collagen fibers results in the appearance of soft, wrinkled skin that has always been sought to combat, particularly in humans, preferring the appearance of smooth and taut skin.

répandues dans le monde vivant, ces enzymes sont présentes, mais faiblement exprimées, dans des situations physiologiques normales comme la croissance des organes et le renouvellement des tissus. Collagenases belong to a family of enzymes called metalloproteinases (MMPs) which are themselves members of a family of proteolytic enzymes (endoproteases) which have a zinc atom coordinated to 3 cysteine residues and a methionine in their active site and which degrade the macromolecular components of the extracellular matrix and basal laminae at neutral pH (collagen, elastin, etc.). Very widely

widespread in the living world, these enzymes are present, but weakly expressed, in normal physiological situations such as organ growth and tissue renewal.

Their overexpression and activation are however linked to numerous processes, sometimes pathological, which involve the destruction and reshaping of the matrix. This either leads to an uncontrolled resorption of the extracellular matrix, or conversely the establishment of a state of fibrosis.

The family of metalloproteinases consists of several well-defined groups based on their similarities in terms of structure and substrate specificity (see Woessner J. F., Faseb Journal, vol. 5,1991, 2145). Among these groups, there may be mentioned collagenases intended to degrade fibrillar collagens (MMP-1 or interstitial collagenase, MMP-8 or neutrophil collagenase, MMP-13 or collagenase 3), gelatinases which degrade collagen type IV or any form of denatured collagen (MMP-2 or gelatinase A (72 kDa), MMP-9 or gelatinase B (92 kDa)), stromelysins (MMP-3, MMP-10 and MMP-11) whose broad spectrum of activity targets proteins in the extracellular matrix such as glycoproteins (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans, etc., or metalloproteinases

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membranaires.

membrane.

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly type A and / or B ultraviolet radiation, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, particularly MMP-1. This is one of the components of photo-induced skin aging.

In addition to the menopause, the main modifications concerning the dermis are a reduction in the collagen level and the dermal thickness. This leads in menopausal women to thinning of the skin and / or mucous membranes. The woman then feels a feeling of "dry skin" or of skin that pulls and there is an accentuation of wrinkles and fine lines on the surface. The skin has a rough appearance on palpation. Finally, the skin has reduced flexibility.

We then understand from reading the above the importance of collagen in the structure of tissues, particularly of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and the importance of combating its degradation so as to combat the signs skin of aging, whether chronological or photo-induced, and its consequences, such as thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen fibers which lead to the appearance of soft, distended and wrinkled skin.

molle, la peau amincie, la peau terne et sans éclat, le manque d'élasticité et/ou de tonus de la peau, mais également toutes modifications internes de la peau qui ne se traduisent pas systématiquement par un aspect extérieur modifié, comme par exemple toutes dégradations internes de la peau, particulièrement des fibres de collagène, consécutives à une exposition aux rayonnements ultra-

violets, qui peuvent avoir comme conséquence l'amincissement du derme. The term “cutaneous signs of aging” means any modification of the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or photo-induced, such as for example wrinkles and fine lines, withered skin, the skin

soft, thinned skin, dull and dull skin, lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin, but also all internal modifications of the skin which do not systematically result in a modified external appearance, such as for example all internal degradations of the skin, particularly of collagen fibers, following exposure to ultra-

purple, which can result in thinning of the dermis.

One of the aims of the present invention is therefore to be able to have a product which makes it possible to treat, in mammals in general, particularly in humans, preventively and / or curatively, the cutaneous signs of aging, whether it be chronobiological or photo-induced, particularly thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen fibers, by a

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effet inhibiteur des collagénases. stimulating effect of collagen synthesis and / or a collagenase inhibiting effect and if possible no significant side effects. Surprisingly, the Applicant has now discovered that the use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, alone, outside of any association with another carotenoid, makes it possible to treat cutaneous signs preventively and / or curatively aging, whether chronobiological or photo-induced, particularly thinning of the dermis and / or degradation of collagen fibers, by a stimulating effect on the synthesis of collagen and / or a

collagenase inhibiting effect.

To the knowledge of the applicant, the stimulatory activity on the synthesis of collagen and the inhibitory activity on the expression and / or the activity of collagenases of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, alone, without any association with another carotenoid, have never been described.

The invention therefore relates to the use of a carotenoid alone, with the exception of any combination with another carotenoid and with the exception of Iycopene.

Thus, the first object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to treat the cutaneous signs of aging.

A second object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat degradation of collagen.

A third object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to inhibit expression and / or synthesis and / or the activity of the proteases of the extracellular matrix, particularly of metalloproteinases and even more particularly of metalloproteinase type 1.

A fourth object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the

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 carotenoid or the composition being intended to treat skin disorders linked to aging, in particular skin disorders of menopause.

A fifth object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat wrinkles and fine lines.

The sixth object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended for combating withered skin.

The seventh subject of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended for combating soft skin.

The eighth object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to fight against thinned skin.

The ninth object of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended for combating dull and dull skin.

A tenth subject of the invention is the use in a composition or for the preparation of a composition of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat the lack of elasticity and / or skin tone.

Whatever the intended use of the invention, it can be preventive and / or curative to the harm it aims to treat.

It is obvious that the invention is intended for mammals in general and particularly for human beings.

By carotenoid is meant according to the invention both a carotenoid with provitamin A activity, and a carotenoid without provitamin A activity.

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Parmi les caroténoïdes à activité provitaminique A, on peut citer à titre d'exemple le ss-carotène ou l'a-carotène.

Among the carotenoids with provitamin A activity, there may be mentioned, for example, ss-carotene or a-carotene.

Among the carotenoids without provitamin A activity, there may be mentioned by way of example zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, lutein.

The carotenoids used according to the invention, with or without provitamin A activity, can be of natural or synthetic origin.

By natural origin is meant the carotenoid, in the pure state or in solution whatever its concentration in said solution, obtained from a natural element.

By synthetic origin is meant the carotenoid, in the pure state or in solution whatever its concentration in said solution, obtained by chemical synthesis.

matériel végétal issu de plante entière cultivée in vivo ou issu de culture in vitro. Par culture in vivo on entend toute culture de type classique c'est à dire en sol à l'air libre ou en serre, ou encore hors sol. When the carotenoid is of natural origin, it can be obtained from

plant material from whole plant grown in vivo or from in vitro culture. The term “in vivo culture” means any culture of the conventional type, that is to say in soil in the open air or in a greenhouse, or even above ground.

chimiques lors de la croissance des cellules végétales in vitro permet d'obtenir un matériel végétal standardisé et disponible tout au long de l'année contrairement aux plantes cultivées in vivo. The term “in vitro culture” means all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially make it possible to obtain a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physical-

chemicals during the growth of plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain a standardized plant material and available throughout the year unlike plants cultivated in vivo.

Preferably according to the invention, a plant derived from culture in vivo is used.

Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the carotenoid used according to the invention.

The carotenoid can be in alcoholic solution, in particular ethanolic.

The carotenoid can also be in lipid (oil) or lipoalcoholic solution.

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It is also possible to use, according to the invention, any preparation containing a carotenoid having the objective of improving the bioavailability of the latter and / or any new manufacturing and / or formulation and / or encapsulation processes for the carotenoid.

The amount of carotenoid that can be used according to the invention is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent.

mg. To give an order of magnitude, in a topical composition according to the invention, the carotenoid in the pure state may be in an amount representing from 10'2% to 20% of the total weight of the composition and preferably in an amount representing 10- '% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. Orally, the carotenoid in the pure state can be administered in a daily dose of 0.01 mg to 500 mg and preferably in a daily dose of 0.1 mg to 50

mg.

Obviously, a person skilled in the art, if he uses the carotenoid in the form of a solution, a plant extract for example, knows how to adjust the amount of solution he uses in its composition so that the final amount of carotenoid in the composition is in agreement with the usable quantities previously defined.

The composition of the invention can be in any conceivable dosage form, suitable for both topical application to the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair as for administration by the oral route.

Preferably, the composition of the invention is intended for administration by the oral route.

The composition of the invention can be a cosmetic or dermatological composition. Preferably according to the invention, the composition is a cosmetic composition. The composition is a cosmetic composition because it is intended to improve the general cutaneous appearance of the individual who uses it.

Very preferably the composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition intended for administration by the oral route.

For administration by the oral route, the composition of the invention can be in any suitable form, particularly in the form of an oral solution, a syrup, a tablet, a dragee, a capsule or

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 still a capsule or a nutritional food or a nutritional supplement.

Said composition can also comprise at least one suitable excipient suitable for oral administration.

For administration by topical application to the skin, hair and / or hair and / or mucous membranes, the composition according to the invention obviously comprises a cosmetically acceptable support, that is to say a support compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails, hair and can be in all dosage forms normally used for topical application, in particular in the form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water or water-in-emulsion oil or multiple, of an aqueous or oily gel, of a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product, of an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or better lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.

This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. . It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a care product, as a cleaning product, as a makeup product or even as a simple deodorant product.

gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les solvants, les parfums, les charges, les filtres, les pigments, les agents chélateurs, les absorbeurs d'odeur et les matières colorantes. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans les domaines considérés, et par exemple de 0, 01% à 20 % du poids total de la composition. Ces adjuvants, selon leur nature, peuvent être introduits dans la phase grasse, dans la phase aqueuse, dans les vésicules lipidiques et/ou dans les nanoparticules. In known manner, the composition of the invention may contain the adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as

hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, chelating agents, odor absorbers and coloring matters. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01% to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase, into the lipid vesicles and / or into the nanoparticles.

When the composition of the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the phase

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fatty can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% of the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 20% of the total weight of the composition.

As oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils, oils of vegetable origin (apricot oil, sunflower oil), oils of animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and oils. fluorinated (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, waxes (beeswax) can also be used as fats.

As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned, for example, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate and sorbitan tristearate.

copolymères d'acrylates/alkylacrylates, les polyacrylamides, les polysaccharides, les gommes naturelles et les argiles, et, comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer les argiles modifiées comme les bentones, les sels métalliques d'acides gras, la silice hydrophobe et les polyéthylènes. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as

copolymers of acrylates / alkylacrylates, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes .

The composition can contain other hydrophilic active agents such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives, plant extracts and hydroxy acids.

les huiles essentielles, l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés ou encore les vitamines B1, B6et/ouB12. As lipophilic active agents, retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, can be used.

essential oils, salicylic acid and its derivatives or even vitamins B1, B6 and / or B12.

It is also possible to use in the composition of the invention vitamin C (or ascorbic acid) and its derivatives (esters, salts, etc.).

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, - des extraits de micro-organismes dont en particulier des extraits bactériens comme ceux de bactéries filamenteuses non photosynthétiques ; A la liste ci-dessus, d'autres composés peuvent également être rajoutés, à savoir

par exemple les ouvreurs de canaux potassiques tels que le diazoxyde et le minoxidil, la spiroxazone, des phospholipides comme la lécithine, les acides linoléique et linolénique, l'acide salicylique et ses dérivés décrits dans le brevet français FR 2 581 542, comme les dérivés de l'acide salicylique porteurs d'un groupement alcanoyle ayant de 2 à 12 atomes de carbone en position 5 du cycle benzénique, des acides hydroxycarboxyliques ou cétocarboxyliques et leurs esters, des lactones et leurs sels correspondants, l'anthraline, des caroténoïdes, les acides eicosatétraénoïque et eicosatriénoïque ou leurs esters et amides, la vitamine D et ses dérivés. It is also possible, in addition, to use in the composition of the invention compounds chosen from - trace elements; - plant hormones; - calcium antagonist agents; - OH radical scavengers, such as dimethylsulfoxide; - chlorine channel openers; - plant extracts such as those of Tridaceae, Rosaceae or Labiatee

, - extracts of microorganisms including in particular bacterial extracts such as those of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria; To the list above, other compounds can also be added, namely

for example potassium channel openers such as diazoxide and minoxidil, spiroxazone, phospholipids such as lecithin, linoleic and linolenic acids, salicylic acid and its derivatives described in French patent FR 2 581 542, such as the derivatives salicylic acid carrying an alkanoyl group having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms in position 5 of the benzene ring, hydroxycarboxylic or ketocarboxylic acids and their esters, lactones and their corresponding salts, anthralin, carotenoids, eicosatetraenoic and eicosatrienoic acids or their esters and amides, vitamin D and its derivatives.

- les agents modulant la différenciation et/ou la prolifération et/ou la pigmentation cutanée tels que l'acide rétinoïque et ses isomères, le rétinol et ses esters, la vitamine D et ses dérivés, les oestrogènes tels que l'oestradiol, l'acide kojique ou l'hydroquinone ; - les antibactériens tels que le phosphate de clindamycine, l'érythromycine ou les antibiotiques de la classe des tétracyclines ; - les agents modulant l'adhésion bactérienne sur la peau et/ou les muqueuses tels que le miel, notamment le miel d'acacias et certains dérivés de sucres ; - les antiparasitaires, en particulier le métronidazole, le crotamiton ou les pyréthrinoïdes ; - les antifongiques, en particulier les composés appartenant à la classe des According to the invention, it is possible, among other things, to add to the composition of the invention other active agents intended in particular for the prevention and / or treatment of skin conditions. Among these active agents, there may be mentioned by way of example:

- agents modulating differentiation and / or proliferation and / or skin pigmentation such as retinoic acid and its isomers, retinol and its esters, vitamin D and its derivatives, estrogens such as estradiol, kojic acid or hydroquinone; - antibacterials such as clindamycin phosphate, erythromycin or antibiotics of the tetracycline class; - agents modulating bacterial adhesion to the skin and / or mucous membranes such as honey, in particular acacia honey and certain sugar derivatives; - antiparasitics, in particular metronidazole, crotamiton or pyrethroids; - antifungals, in particular compounds belonging to the class of

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imidazoles tels que l'éconazole, le kétoconazole ou le miconazole ou leurs sels, les composés polyènes, tels que l'amphotéricine B, les composés de la famille des allylamines, tels que la terbinafine, ou encore l'octopirox ; - les agents antiviraux tels que l'acyclovir ; - les agents anti-inflammatoires stéroïdiens, tels que l'hydrocortisone, le valérate de bétaméthasone ou le propionate de clobétasol, ou les agents antiinflammatoires non-stéroïdiens tels que l'ibuprofène et ses sels, le diclofénac et ses sels, l'acide acétylsalicylique, l'acétaminophène ou l'acide glycyrrhétinique ; - les agents anesthésiques tels que le chlorhydrate de lidocaïne et ses dérivés ; - les agents antiprurigineux comme la thénaldine, la triméprazine ou la cyproheptadine ; - les agents kératolytiques tels que les acides alpha-et bêta-

hydroxycarboxyliques ou bêta-cétocarboxyliques, leurs sels, amides ou esters et plus particulièrement les hydroxy-acides tels que l'acide glycolique, l'acide lactique, l'acide salicylique, l'acide citrique et de manière générale les acides de fruits, et l'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique ; - les agents anti-radicaux libres, tels que les superoxyde dismutases, certains chélatants de métaux ou l'acide ascorbique et ses esters ; - les anti-séborrhéiques ;

- les antipelliculaires comme l'octopirox ou la pyrithione de zinc ; - les antiacnéiques comme l'acide rétinoïque ou le peroxyde de benzoyl.

imidazoles such as econazole, ketoconazole or miconazole or their salts, polyene compounds, such as amphotericin B, compounds of the allylamine family, such as terbinafine, or even octopirox; - antiviral agents such as acyclovir; - steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, such as hydrocortisone, betamethasone valerate or clobetasol propionate, or non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as ibuprofen and its salts, diclofenac and its salts, acetylsalicylic acid , acetaminophen or glycyrrhetinic acid; - anesthetic agents such as lidocaine hydrochloride and its derivatives; - antipruritic agents such as thenaldine, trimeprazine or cyproheptadine; - keratolytic agents such as alpha and beta acids

hydroxycarboxylic or beta-ketocarboxylic, their salts, amides or esters and more particularly hydroxy acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, citric acid and in general fruit acids, and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; - anti-free radical agents, such as superoxide dismutases, certain metal chelators or ascorbic acid and its esters; - anti-seborrheic drugs;

- anti-dandruff agents such as octopirox or zinc pyrithione; - anti-acne drugs such as retinoic acid or benzoyl peroxide.

- substances such as antagonists of substance P, of CGRP or of bradykinin or inhibitors of NO synthase or else inhibitors of sodium channels, compounds described as being active in the treatment of sensitive skin and as having anti-irritant effects, in particular with regard to irritant compounds possibly present in the compositions.

As active agents, moisturizers such as polyols (for example glycerin), vitamins (for example D-panthenol), anti-inflammatory agents, soothing agents (allantoin, blueberry water), filters can be used UVA and UVB, matting agents (for example partially crosslinked polydimethylorganosiloxanes sold under the name KSG &commat; by Shin Etsu) and their mixtures.

tels que les protéines végétales et leurs hydrolysats, en particulier l'extrait de protéines de soja vendu sous le nom d'Elesery ! &commat; par la société LSN ou le dérivé d'avoine vendu sous la dénomination Reductine&commat; par la société Silab. It is also possible to add anti-wrinkle active agents, and in particular tensing products.

such as vegetable proteins and their hydrolysates, in particular the soy protein extract sold under the name of Elsery! &Commat; by the company LSN or the oat derivative sold under the name Reductine &commat; by the company Silab.

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Since the skin is made up of many other components than collagen and fibroblasts, it turns out to be advantageous, when using the combination of the invention, to promote at the same time the synthesis of these other components such as for example lipids and / or promote the proliferation of other cellular components such as, for example, keratinocytes.

Thus, the subject of the invention is a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium the combination of at least one carotenoid with provitamin A activity and at least one carotenoid without provitamin A activity and at least one other product stimulating the synthesis of lipids and / or proliferation of keratinocytes.

Said composition can be intended for use in the cosmetic or dermatological field, preferably in the cosmetic field.

In this respect, mention may be made, as product stimulating the synthesis of lipids, of plant hormones, such as auxins, or of compounds of vegetable origin, such as cinnamic acid, and as product stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes of compounds of vegetable origin, such as phloroglucinol.

ss-naphtoxyacétique, l'indole éthanol, l'idole acétaldéhyde et l'indole acétonitrile et/ou un composé végétal comme le phloroglucinol. Thus, the compositions according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of the invention, cinnamic acid or its derivatives and / or a plant hormone, particularly an auxin chosen from indolacetic acid (IAA), l 4-chloroindole-3-acetic acid (4-Cl-IAA), phenylacetic acid (PM), indole-3-butyric acid (IBA), 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D) , a-naphthalene acetic acid (a-NAA), acid

ss-naphthoxyacetic, indole ethanol, idol acetaldehyde and indole acetonitrile and / or a plant compound such as phloroglucinol.

The present invention further relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin intended to stimulate the synthesis of collagen and / or fight against skin disorders linked to age and / or menopause and / or fight against thinning. of the dermis and / or combat the appearance of soft and / or wrinkled skin, characterized in that it is applied to the skin, to the hair, and / or to the hair and / or to the mucous membranes or that the a cosmetic composition comprising a carotenoid is ingested, with the exception of Iycopene.

The cosmetic treatment process of the invention can be implemented

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 in particular by applying the cosmetic compositions as defined above, according to the usual technique for using these compositions. For example: application of creams, gels, serums, lotion, milks, shampoos or anti-sun compositions, on the skin or on the hair or on the hairs or also application of toothpaste on the gums and so preferable by oral administration of an oral solution, a syrup, a tablet, a capsule, a capsule or a nutritional food or nutritional supplement.

The following examples and compositions illustrate the invention without limiting it in any way. In the compositions the proportions indicated are percentages by weight.

Composition 1-Soft capsules: Excipients:
Soybean oil 40 mg
Wheat Germ Oil 85 mg
Soy lecithins 25 mg Vitamins:
Natural Tocopherols 3 mg
Vitamin C 50 mg Components:
Beta-carotene 10 mg Composition 2: Care cream (oil-in-water emulsion) Beta-carotene 0.01% Glycerol stearate 2.00% Polysorbate 60 (Tween 609 sold by the company HERE) 1.00% Stearic acid 1, 40% Triethanolamine 0, 70% Carbomer 0, 40% Liquid fraction of shea butter 12, 00% Perhydrosqualene 12, 00% Antioxidant 0, 05% Perfume 0, 50% Preservative 0, 30% Water qs 100, 00%

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 Composition 3: Beta-carotene face care gel 0, 0001% Hydroxypropylcellulose (Klucel HI sold by the company Hercules) 1.00% Antioxidant 0.05% Isopropanol 40.00% Preservative 0.30% Water qs 100.00 % Composition 4: Care cream (oil-in-water emulsion) Beta-carotene 0.01% Glycerol stearate 2.00% Polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 # sold by the company HERE) 1.00% Stearic acid 1.40 % Glycyrrhetinic acid 2.00% Triethanolamine 0.70% Carbomer 0.40% Liquid fraction of shea butter 12.00% Sunflower oil 10.00% Antioxidant 0.05% Perfume 0.50% Preservative 0.30% Water qs 100.00%

Claims (24)

 1. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to treat the cutaneous signs of aging. 2. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat degradation of collagen. 3. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to inhibit the expression of the proteases of the extracellular matrix. 4. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinases. 5. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinase type 1. 6. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to treat skin disorders linked to menopause. 7. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat wrinkles and fine lines. 8. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended for combating withered skin. 9. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended for combating soft skin. <Desc / Clms Page number 16> 10. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to fight against thinned skin. 11. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to fight dull and flawless skin. 12. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat the lack of elasticity and / or tone of the skin . 13. Use of a carotenoid, with the exception of Iycopene, in a composition or for the preparation of a composition, the carotenoid or the composition being intended to combat internal degradations of the skin consecutive to exposure to ultra radiation -violets. 14. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid is a carotenoid with provitamin A activity or a carotenoid without provitamin A activity. 15. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid with provitamin A activity is chosen from ss-carotene or a-carotene. 16. Use according to claim 15, characterized in that the carotenoid with provitamin A activity is ss-carotene. 17. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid without provitamin A activity is chosen from zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, lutein. 18. Use according to claim 17, characterized in that the carotenoid without provitamin A activity is lutein. 19. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid in the pure state is in an amount representing from 10-12% to 20% of the total weight of the topical composition. <Desc / Clms Page number 17> 20. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid in the pure state is in an amount representing from 10% to 10% of the total weight of the topical composition. 21. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid in the pure state is at the daily dose of 0.01 mg to 500 mg orally. 22. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carotenoid in the pure state is at the daily dose of 0.1 mg to 50 mg orally. 23. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is intended for administration by the oral route. 24. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an oral solution, a syrup, a tablet, a dragee, a capsule, a capsule or a nutritional food or a nutritional supplement.