WO2001053542A2 - Leather treatment method and resulting leather - Google Patents

Leather treatment method and resulting leather Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001053542A2
WO2001053542A2 PCT/FR2001/000147 FR0100147W WO0153542A2 WO 2001053542 A2 WO2001053542 A2 WO 2001053542A2 FR 0100147 W FR0100147 W FR 0100147W WO 0153542 A2 WO0153542 A2 WO 0153542A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
leather
product
finishing product
finishing
dyes
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Application number
PCT/FR2001/000147
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French (fr)
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WO2001053542A3 (en
Inventor
Jérôme MAINI
Original Assignee
Societe De Cuirs Et Peaux
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Publication date
Application filed by Societe De Cuirs Et Peaux filed Critical Societe De Cuirs Et Peaux
Priority to EP01907614A priority Critical patent/EP1268862A2/en
Publication of WO2001053542A2 publication Critical patent/WO2001053542A2/en
Publication of WO2001053542A3 publication Critical patent/WO2001053542A3/en

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/32—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups leather skins
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
    • C14C11/00—Surface finishing of leather

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to methods for treating leather, more particularly to methods for treating leather, comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product including pigments and / or dyes, on one side. at least of said leather when the latter is in the dry state, in whole or in part of said one face at least.
  • the treatment of leathers can comprise the deposition of a layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on one side of the leather, generally, the flower side, this deposition being carried out when the leather is in the dry state, in the finishing phase of the leather treatment, after the skin has been tanned, generally retanned, nourished, tinted, and dried.
  • a layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes
  • this layer can reduce the natural appearance of the leather, or even give it an appearance of synthetic material, which can harm its marketing, since it is contrary to the very nature of leather which is a natural product.
  • the prior art processes for treating leathers comprising depositing a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes at the end of the leather treatment limit the field of application of leathers resulting from such processes to products excluding high-end products.
  • the object of the present invention is to overcome these drawbacks and to provide other advantages.
  • the invention consists of a method of treating a leather comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product including pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said leather when this the latter is in the dry state, in whole or in part of said at least one face, characterized in that it consists in soaking, in a bath comprising at least one dyeing product, said leather after having deposited on it said finishing product.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain, for a given finishing product, and by comparison with a method of the prior art as defined above, a leather for which the deposited finishing product drowns better on surface of the skin, that is to say it allows in particular a less accentuated contrast with the natural color or not of the leather.
  • the feel of the leather obtained according to the method according to the invention is softer, the suppleness of the skin retained, and the appearance more natural.
  • leather in the dry state is meant here any leather whose moisture content is less than or equal to the moisture content normal of a leather.
  • the normal humidity level of a leather is variable and adapts according to the humidity level of the environment in which it is placed.
  • the method according to the invention consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of a leather after tanning and before dyeing of said leather.
  • stain leathers that is to say according to the meaning accorded to this word here, to tanned hides, possibly retanned, nourished, not yet tinted during a specific operation. of dye, and not finished.
  • said bath further comprises a retanning product.
  • said bath further comprises a food product.
  • said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a nitrocellulose lacquer
  • said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a fixauon based on polyurethane in an aqueous medium.
  • the method according to the invention consists in depositing said at least one layer of a finishing product on at least one side of said leather, in whole or appearing from said one side at least, by means of a cylinder applicator.
  • the method according to the invention consists in forming a specific muff with said finishing product on said at least one face of the leather.
  • the method according to the invention consists in forming said muff on the surface of said applicator cylinder
  • said pattern is given by the surface of the leather, said applicator cylinder having an application surface without said pattern.
  • the invention also relates to a leather product having a finishing including pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the leather, in whole or in part e said at least one side, characterized in that said leather is obtained with a process according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 represents a diagram of a first exemplary embodiment of a method for treating a leather according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 represents a diagram of a second exemplary embodiment of a method of treating a leather according to the invention.
  • the process for treating a leather or several leathers shown diagrammatically in FIG. 1 applies in the present case to so-called pickled hides 1, that is to say hides which have undergone an intermediate treatment between work in river and tanning, consisting in treating the skin in guts with a strong acid solution in the presence of salt, generally sulfuric acid and sodium chloride or sea salt.
  • Pickling which acidifies and dehydrates the skin can be used to ensure the preservation of the tripe skin or to prepare the tripe skin for tanning.
  • the leathers are then dried in step 3 in any known manner, for example by suspension in a heated and ventilated tunnel dryer, drying on ice, or drying on a frame or under vacuum.
  • Various operations performed on the leather after drying can optionally be carried out on the leathers thus obtained depending in particular on their destination, for example palising, grinding or sanding, smoothing - ironing - saunage, caking, printing, declutching, sawing, felting, fulling, framing.
  • the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises for example a nitrocellulose lacquer in a solvent medium, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which it is desired to obtain, is then applied in step 4 to FIG.
  • the method according to the invention may comprise the formation of a determined pattern with the finishing product on the face of the leather on which it is applied.
  • the leather may include, for example on the flower side, a particular design aimed at giving it a determined aesthetic.
  • the determined pattern can for example be formed on the surface of the applicator cylinder shaped for this purpose, or given by the surface of the leather because of its natural relief or not, the deposition of the finishing product being then carried out only on the sole raised portions of the leather, the applicator cylinder then having an application surface free of said pattern.
  • the leathers coated with the finishing product as described above are then dyed, advantageously fed and retanned, in the step referenced 5 in FIG. 1, these operations, widely known and used by those skilled in the art are generally carried out by stirring the leathers in a fuller in appropriate baths.
  • the purpose of dyeing is to color the leathers by chemical fixation of dyes on the leather fibers, more or less deeply in the thickness of the leathers depending on the destination of the latter.
  • Food consists of making the leather absorb varying amounts of fat essentially, to maintain the suppleness of the leather or to give it a certain impermeability, or a combination of the two.
  • step 6 The leathers thus obtained are then dried in step 6 in a similar manner to that already described above in step 3 of the process according to FIG. 1.
  • the method described with the aid of FIG. 1 was applied to a lambskin, which underwent, from the pickled state, a chromium tanning step, then chromium-vegetable retanning, followed by the addition of food products made from synthetic oils; then the skin was dried and a nitrocellulose lacquer dyed with cellulosic pigments was applied to the leather in the dry state, which was then dyed by soaking in a bath containing a dye comprising a synthetic dye and advantageously chromium-vegetable and synthetic foods retanning; the leather was then dried.
  • the pickled skins 11 undergo a tanning step 12, for example a tanning of the mineral chrome type, with a view to obtaining the transformation of the skins into leather, the chrome tanning step consisting in brewing the skins in baths base of chromium salts with continuous stirring, in a fuller for example.
  • a tanning step 12 for example a tanning of the mineral chrome type, with a view to obtaining the transformation of the skins into leather
  • the chrome tanning step consisting in brewing the skins in baths base of chromium salts with continuous stirring, in a fuller for example.
  • the skins tanned at the end of the chrome tanning step 12 are called skins in the blue-wet or "et-blue" state, and can undergo various operations in the wet state depending on the destination of the finished product, such as for example a rest on an easel, a spin (not shown), a slitting (not shown) or a declutching (not shown) to obtain a leveling of the leather in thickness, a wind setting (not shown) in order to give the leather a flat surface.
  • the leathers are then put on an easel in step 13, then undergo a dyeing, food and retanning step in 14, followed by a drying step in 15, before depositing on the leathers a finishing product.
  • the stages of drying and depositing the finishing product are analogous to stages 3 and 4 described with the aid of the example in FIG. 1.
  • the leathers coated with the finishing product as described above are then dyed, advantageously fed and retanned, in the step referenced 17 in FIG. 2, these operations being carried out in a similar manner to that described with the example in Figure 1.
  • the main purpose of dyeing in step 17 of Figure 2 is to prevent the color imparted to the leathers during the dye 14 is not degraded.
  • step 18 The leathers thus obtained are then dried in step 18 in a similar manner to that already described above in step 3 of the process according to FIG. 1.
  • the method described with the aid of FIG. 2 was applied to a lambskin, which underwent, from the pickled state, a chromium tanning step, then a put on easel, then a dyeing step with chromium-vegetable retanning, with food products made of synthetic oils; then the skin was dried, then a nitrocellulose lacquer dyed with cellulosic pigments was applied to the leather in the dry state, which was then dyed again by soaking in a bath containing a dye comprising a synthetic dye and advantageously retanning and food products; the leather was then dried.
  • a framing in particular, before the deposition of the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes may prove to be really expedient.
  • a preliminary framing makes it possible to flatten the leather and then, for example by means of an applicator cylinder, to cover the leather over the entire area concerned by the deposition of the pattern.
  • mineral tanning with chromium was carried out; it should be noted that other types of tanning, for example a vegetable tanning or a tanning based on organic or synthetic products or a mixture of these can of course also be envisaged.
  • the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes can be a product in an aqueous medium comprising, for example, a polyurethane-based fixing, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which is desired. get.
  • two types of finishing products have been described, however, other types of known finishing products can be used in the process according to the invention, insofar as they are compatible with an application on leather. when dry and where they resist subsequent treatments.

Abstract

The invention concerns a leather treatment method comprising a step which consists in depositing (4, 16) at least a layer of a finish product including pigments and/or colouring agents, on at least one face of said leather when the latter is in dry state, over all or at least part of said face. The invention is characterised in that it consists in soaking in a bath (5, 17) comprising at least a dyeing product, said leather after depositing thereon said finish product. The invention also concerns the resulting leather.

Description

PROCEDE DE TRAITEMENT D'UN CUIR, ET CUIR AINSI OBTENU PROCESS FOR TREATING LEATHER AND LEATHER THUS OBTAINED
La présente invention se rapporte aux procédés de traitement des cuirs, plus particulièrement aux procédés de traitement d'un cuir comprenant une étape consistant à déposer au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage incluant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins dudit cuir lorsque ce dernier est à l'état sec, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins.The present invention relates to methods for treating leather, more particularly to methods for treating leather, comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product including pigments and / or dyes, on one side. at least of said leather when the latter is in the dry state, in whole or in part of said one face at least.
Selon l'art antérieur connu du demandeur, le traitement des cuirs peut comprendre le dépôt d'une couche d'un produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face du cuir, généralement, le côté fleur, ce dépôt étant effectué lorsque le cuir se trouve à l'état sec, en phase de finissage du traitement du cuir, après que la peau ait été tannée, généralement retannée, nourrie, teintée, et séchée. Ainsi, une application de ce qui précède peut consister à déposer sur le cuir un motif de couleur différente de celle donnée par la teinture afin de conférer à la surface du cuir un dessin particulier.According to the prior art known to the applicant, the treatment of leathers can comprise the deposition of a layer of a finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes, on one side of the leather, generally, the flower side, this deposition being carried out when the leather is in the dry state, in the finishing phase of the leather treatment, after the skin has been tanned, generally retanned, nourished, tinted, and dried. Thus, an application of the above may consist in depositing on the leather a pattern of color different from that given by the dye in order to give the surface of the leather a particular design.
Cependant, l'application d'une couche de produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants se pratiquant en phase finale du procédé de traitement du cuir, cette couche peut atténuer l'aspect naturel du cuir, voire lui conférer un aspect de matière synthétique, qui peut nuire à sa commercialisation, puisqu'il est contraire à la nature même du cuir qui est un produit naturel. Ainsi, les procédés de l'art antérieur de traitement des cuirs comprenant le dépôt d'une couche de produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants en fin de traitement du cuir limitent le champ d'application des cuirs issus de tels procédés à des produits excluant les produits haut de gamme. La présente invention a pour but de pallier ces inconvénients et d'apporter d'autres avantages. Plus précisément, l'invention consiste en un procédé de traitement d'un cuir comprenant une étape consistant à déposer au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage incluant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins dudit cuir lorsque ce dernier est à l'état sec, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à tremper, dans un bain comportant au moins un produit de teinture, ledit cuir après avoir déposé sur celui-ci ledit produit de finissage.However, the application of a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes being practiced in the final phase of the leather treatment process, this layer can reduce the natural appearance of the leather, or even give it an appearance of synthetic material, which can harm its marketing, since it is contrary to the very nature of leather which is a natural product. Thus, the prior art processes for treating leathers comprising depositing a layer of finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes at the end of the leather treatment limit the field of application of leathers resulting from such processes to products excluding high-end products. The object of the present invention is to overcome these drawbacks and to provide other advantages. More specifically, the invention consists of a method of treating a leather comprising a step consisting in depositing at least one layer of a finishing product including pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of said leather when this the latter is in the dry state, in whole or in part of said at least one face, characterized in that it consists in soaking, in a bath comprising at least one dyeing product, said leather after having deposited on it said finishing product.
Le procédé selon l'invention permet d'obtenir, pour un produit de finissage donné, et par comparaison avec un procédé de l'art antérieur tel que défini ci-dessus, un cuir pour lequel le produit de finissage déposé se noie mieux à la surface de la peau, c'est à dire qu'il permet notamment un contraste moins accentué avec la couleur naturelle ou non du cuir. En outre, le toucher du cuir obtenu suivant le procédé selon l'invention est plus doux, la souplesse de la peau conservée, et l'aspect plus naturel. Par cuir à l'état sec, on entend ici tout cuir dont le taux d'humidité est inférieur ou égal au taux d'humidité normal d'un cuir. Le taux d'humidité normal d'un cuir est variable et s'adapte en fonction du taux d'humidité de l'environnement dans lequel il est placé L'adjoncûon d'un produit de teinture dans le bain permet de teinter le cuir simultanément ou d'éviter au cuir de subir un effet de vieillissement en avivant sa couleur. Selon une caractéristique particulière, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à déposer ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins d'un cuir après tannage et avant teinture dudit cuir. Une telle caractéπsnque s'applique plus particulièrement aux cuirs dits à l'état de stain, c'est à dire selon le sens accordé a ce mot ici, aux peaux tannées, éventuellement retannées, nourries, non encore teintées lors d'une opération spécifique de teinture, et non finies.The method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain, for a given finishing product, and by comparison with a method of the prior art as defined above, a leather for which the deposited finishing product drowns better on surface of the skin, that is to say it allows in particular a less accentuated contrast with the natural color or not of the leather. In addition, the feel of the leather obtained according to the method according to the invention is softer, the suppleness of the skin retained, and the appearance more natural. By leather in the dry state is meant here any leather whose moisture content is less than or equal to the moisture content normal of a leather. The normal humidity level of a leather is variable and adapts according to the humidity level of the environment in which it is placed. The addition of a dye product in the bath allows the leather to be dyed simultaneously or to prevent the leather from undergoing an aging effect by brightening its color. According to a particular characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in depositing said finishing product on at least one face of a leather after tanning and before dyeing of said leather. Such a character applies more particularly to so-called stain leathers, that is to say according to the meaning accorded to this word here, to tanned hides, possibly retanned, nourished, not yet tinted during a specific operation. of dye, and not finished.
Selon une autre caractéristique, ledit bain comprend en outre un produit de retannage.According to another characteristic, said bath further comprises a retanning product.
Selon une autre caractéristique, ledit bain comprend en outre un produit de nourriture. Selon une autre caractéπsûque, ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une laque nitrocellulosiqueAccording to another characteristic, said bath further comprises a food product. According to another characteristic, said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a nitrocellulose lacquer
Selon une autre caractéπsuque, ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une fixauon à base de polyurethane en milieu aqueux.According to another characteristic, said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a fixauon based on polyurethane in an aqueous medium.
Selon une autre caractéristique, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à déposer ladite au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage sur une face au moins dudit cuir, en tout ou parue de ladite une face au moins, au moyen d'un cylindre applicateur.According to another characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in depositing said at least one layer of a finishing product on at least one side of said leather, in whole or appearing from said one side at least, by means of a cylinder applicator.
Selon une autre caractéristique, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à former un mouf déterminé avec ledit produit de finissage sur ladite une face au moins du cuir.According to another characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in forming a specific muff with said finishing product on said at least one face of the leather.
Selon une autre caractéπsuque, le procédé selon l'invention consiste à former ledit mouf sur la surface dudit cylindre applicateurAccording to another characteristic, the method according to the invention consists in forming said muff on the surface of said applicator cylinder
Selon une autre caractéristique, ledit motif est donne par la surface du cuir, ledit cylindre applicateur possédant une surface d'application sans ledit motif.According to another characteristic, said pattern is given by the surface of the leather, said applicator cylinder having an application surface without said pattern.
L'invention se rapporte également à un cuir comportant un produit de finissage incluant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins du cuir, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisé en ce que ledit cuir est obtenu avec un procédé suivant l'invennon.The invention also relates to a leather product having a finishing including pigments and / or dyes, on at least one face of the leather, in whole or in part e said at least one side, characterized in that said leather is obtained with a process according to the invention.
L'invention sera mieux compπse et d'autres caractéristiques et avantages apparaîtront à la lecture de la descπpnon qui suit de plusieurs exemples de mode de réalisation d'un procédé suivant l'invennon, accompagnée des dessins annexés, exemples donnés à titre d'illustration et non hmitanfs.The invention will be better understood and other characteristics and advantages will appear on reading the following description of several examples of embodiment of a method according to the invention, accompanied by the appended drawings, examples given by way of illustration and not hmitanfs.
La figure 1 représente un schéma d'un premier exemple de mode de réalisation d'un procédé de traitement d'un cuir selon l'invennonFIG. 1 represents a diagram of a first exemplary embodiment of a method for treating a leather according to the invention
La figure 2 représente un schéma d'un deuxième exemple de mode de réalisation d'un procédé de traitement d'un cuir selon l'invention.FIG. 2 represents a diagram of a second exemplary embodiment of a method of treating a leather according to the invention.
Le procédé de traitement d'un cuir ou de plusieurs cuirs représenté schématiquement sur la figure 1 s'applique dans le cas d'espèce à des peaux dites picklées 1, c'est à dire des peaux qui ont subi un traitement intermédiaire entre le travail en rivière et le tannage, consistant à traiter la peau en tripe par une solution d'acide fort en présence de sel, généralement de l'acide sulfurique et du chlorure de sodium ou sel marin. Le picklage qui acidifie et déshydrate la peau peut être utilisé dans un but d'assurer la conservation de la peau en tripe ou dans un but de préparer la peau en tripe au tannage.The process for treating a leather or several leathers shown diagrammatically in FIG. 1 applies in the present case to so-called pickled hides 1, that is to say hides which have undergone an intermediate treatment between work in river and tanning, consisting in treating the skin in guts with a strong acid solution in the presence of salt, generally sulfuric acid and sodium chloride or sea salt. Pickling which acidifies and dehydrates the skin can be used to ensure the preservation of the tripe skin or to prepare the tripe skin for tanning.
Les peaux picklées subissent une étape 2 de tannage, re tannage et nourriture comme représenté sur la figure 1, par exemple un tannage de type minéral au chrome, suivi d'un retannage de type chrome-végétal puis d'une adjonction de produits de nourritures synthétiques, l'étape de tannage, retannage et nourriture consistant à brasser les peaux dans des bains sous agitation, dans un foulon par exemple.Pickled skins undergo two step tanning, tanning and re food as shown in Figure 1, for example a mineral type chrome tanning, followed by a chrome-type vegetable retanning and of an addition of food products synthetic, the step of tanning, retanning and food consisting in brewing the skins in baths with stirring, in a fuller for example.
Les cuirs sont ensuite séchés à l'étape 3 de toute manière connue, par exemple par suspension dans un séchoir à tunnel chauffé et ventilé, séchage sur glace, ou séchage sur cadre ou sous vide. Diverses opérations pratiquées sur le cuir après séchage peuvent éventuellement être réalisées sur les cuirs ainsi obtenues en fonction notamment de leur destination, par exemple palissonnage, meulage ou ponçage, lissage - repassage - saunage, liégeage, impression, dérayage, sciage, feutrage, foulonnage, cadrage. Le produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend par exemple une laque nitrocellulosique en milieu solvant, les pigments et/ou les colorants étant fonctions de la couleur que l'on désire obtenir, est ensuite appliqué à l'étape 4 sur la figure 1 en tout ou partie du côté fleur du cuir à l'état sec, au moyen d'un cylindre applicateur, mis en œuvre par exemple dans une machine de type à enduction par laminage ou "roller-coating machine", machine utilisée de manière conventionnelle pour l'impression des cuirs. Il est à noter que le procédé selon l'invention peut comprendre la formation d'un motif déterminé avec le produit de finissage sur la face du cuir sur laquelle il est appliqué. Ainsi le cuir pourra comporter, par exemple côté fleur, un dessin particulier visant à lui conférer une esthétique déterminée. Le motif déterminé peut par exemple être formé sur la surface du cylindre applicateur façonnée à cet effet, ou donné par la surface du cuir en raison de son relief naturel ou non, le dépôt du produit de finissage n'étant alors effectué que sur les seules parties en relief du cuir, le cylindre applicateur possédant alors une surface d'application exempte dudit motif.The leathers are then dried in step 3 in any known manner, for example by suspension in a heated and ventilated tunnel dryer, drying on ice, or drying on a frame or under vacuum. Various operations performed on the leather after drying can optionally be carried out on the leathers thus obtained depending in particular on their destination, for example palising, grinding or sanding, smoothing - ironing - saunage, caking, printing, declutching, sawing, felting, fulling, framing. The finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises for example a nitrocellulose lacquer in a solvent medium, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which it is desired to obtain, is then applied in step 4 to FIG. 1, in whole or in part, on the grain side of the leather in the dry state, by means of an applicator cylinder, implemented for example in a machine of the rolling coating type or "roller-coating machine", machine used conventionally for printing leathers. It should be noted that the method according to the invention may comprise the formation of a determined pattern with the finishing product on the face of the leather on which it is applied. Thus the leather may include, for example on the flower side, a particular design aimed at giving it a determined aesthetic. The determined pattern can for example be formed on the surface of the applicator cylinder shaped for this purpose, or given by the surface of the leather because of its natural relief or not, the deposition of the finishing product being then carried out only on the sole raised portions of the leather, the applicator cylinder then having an application surface free of said pattern.
Selon le procédé représenté sur la figure 1 , les cuirs revêtus du produit de finissage tels que décrits ci-dessus sont ensuite teintés, avantageusement nourris et retannés, à l'étape référencée 5 sur la figure 1, ces opérations, largement connues et utilisées par l'homme du métier étant effectuées généralement par brassage des cuirs dans un foulon dans des bains appropriés. La teinture à pour but de colorer les cuirs par fixation chimique de colorants sur les fibres du cuir, plus ou moins profondément dans l'épaisseur des cuirs suivant la destination de ces derniers. La nourriture consiste à faire absorber au cuir des quantités variables de matières grasses essentiellement, pour maintenir la souplesse du cuir ou lui conférer une certaine imperméabilité, ou une combinaison des deux.According to the process represented in FIG. 1, the leathers coated with the finishing product as described above are then dyed, advantageously fed and retanned, in the step referenced 5 in FIG. 1, these operations, widely known and used by those skilled in the art are generally carried out by stirring the leathers in a fuller in appropriate baths. The purpose of dyeing is to color the leathers by chemical fixation of dyes on the leather fibers, more or less deeply in the thickness of the leathers depending on the destination of the latter. Food consists of making the leather absorb varying amounts of fat essentially, to maintain the suppleness of the leather or to give it a certain impermeability, or a combination of the two.
Les cuirs ainsi obtenus sont ensuite séchés à l'étape 6 d'une manière similaire à celle déjà décrite plus haut à l'étape 3 du procédé selon la figure 1.The leathers thus obtained are then dried in step 6 in a similar manner to that already described above in step 3 of the process according to FIG. 1.
A titre d'exemple d'application, le procédé décrit à l'aide de la figure 1 a été appliqué à une peau d'agneau, qui a subi, à partir de l'état picklé, une étape de tannage au chrome, puis retannage chrome-végétal, suivi d'une adjonction de produits de nourriture constitués d'huiles synthétiques; ensuite, la peau a été séchée puis une laque nitrocellulosique teintée avec des pigments cellulosiques a été appliquée sur le cuir à l'état sec, qui a ensuite été teinté par trempage dans un bain contenant une teinture comportant un colorant synthétique et avantageusement des produits de retannage chrome-végétal et de nourritures synthétiques; le cuir a ensuite été séché.As an example of application, the method described with the aid of FIG. 1 was applied to a lambskin, which underwent, from the pickled state, a chromium tanning step, then chromium-vegetable retanning, followed by the addition of food products made from synthetic oils; then the skin was dried and a nitrocellulose lacquer dyed with cellulosic pigments was applied to the leather in the dry state, which was then dyed by soaking in a bath containing a dye comprising a synthetic dye and advantageously chromium-vegetable and synthetic foods retanning; the leather was then dried.
Le procédé de traitement d'un ou plusieurs cuirs représenté schématiquement sur la figure 2 s'applique comme pour le premier exemple de mode de réalisation, à des peaux picklées 11.The process for treating one or more leathers represented diagrammatically in FIG. 2 applies as for the first example of embodiment, to pickled skins 11.
Les peaux picklées 11 subissent une étape 12 de tannage, par exemple un tannage de type minéral au chrome, en vue de d'obtenir la transformation des peaux en cuir, l'étape de tannage au chrome consistant à brasser les peaux dans des bains à base de sels de chrome sous agitation continue, dans un foulon par exemple.The pickled skins 11 undergo a tanning step 12, for example a tanning of the mineral chrome type, with a view to obtaining the transformation of the skins into leather, the chrome tanning step consisting in brewing the skins in baths base of chromium salts with continuous stirring, in a fuller for example.
Les peaux tannées en sortie de l'étape de tannage 12 au chrome sont dites peaux à l'état bleu-humide ou " et-blue", et peuvent subir diverses opérations à l'état humide en fonction de la destination du produit fini, comme par exemple un repos sur chevalet, un essorage (non représenté), un refendage (non représenté) ou un dérayage (non représenté) pour obtenir une égalisation du cuir en épaisseur, une mise au vent (non représentée) en vue de donner au cuir une surface plane.The skins tanned at the end of the chrome tanning step 12 are called skins in the blue-wet or "et-blue" state, and can undergo various operations in the wet state depending on the destination of the finished product, such as for example a rest on an easel, a spin (not shown), a slitting (not shown) or a declutching (not shown) to obtain a leveling of the leather in thickness, a wind setting (not shown) in order to give the leather a flat surface.
Selon le procédé représenté à la figure 2, les cuirs sont ensuite mis sur chevalet à l'étape 13, puis subissent une étape de teinture, nourriture et retannage en 14, suivie d'une étape de séchage en 15, avant de déposer sur les cuirs un produit de finissage. Les étapes de séchage et de dépôt du produit de finissage sont analogues aux étapes 3 et 4 décrites à l'aide de l'exemple de la figure 1.According to the process represented in FIG. 2, the leathers are then put on an easel in step 13, then undergo a dyeing, food and retanning step in 14, followed by a drying step in 15, before depositing on the leathers a finishing product. The stages of drying and depositing the finishing product are analogous to stages 3 and 4 described with the aid of the example in FIG. 1.
Selon le procédé représenté sur la figure 2, les cuirs revêtus du produit de finissage tels que décrits plus haut sont ensuite teintés, avantageusement nourris et retannés, à l'étape référencée 17 sur la figure 2, ces opérations étant effectuées de manière analogue à celle décrite avec l'exemple de la figure 1. Toutefois, la teinture à l'étape 17 de la figure 2 a pour but essentiel d'éviter que la couleur conférée aux cuirs lors de l'étape de teinture 14 ne soit dégradée.According to the process represented in FIG. 2, the leathers coated with the finishing product as described above are then dyed, advantageously fed and retanned, in the step referenced 17 in FIG. 2, these operations being carried out in a similar manner to that described with the example in Figure 1. However, the main purpose of dyeing in step 17 of Figure 2 is to prevent the color imparted to the leathers during the dye 14 is not degraded.
Les cuirs ainsi obtenus sont ensuite séchés à l'étape 18 d'une manière similaire à celle déjà décrite plus haut à l'étape 3 du procédé selon la figure 1.The leathers thus obtained are then dried in step 18 in a similar manner to that already described above in step 3 of the process according to FIG. 1.
A titre d'exemple d'application, le procédé décrit à l'aide de la figure 2 a été appliqué à une peau d'agneau, qui a subi à partir de l'état picklé, une étape de tannage au chrome, puis une mise sur chevalet, puis une étape de teinture avec retannage chrome- végétal, avec produits de nourriture constitués d'huiles synthétiques; ensuite, la peau a été séchée, puis une laque nitrocellulosique teintée avec des pigments cellulosiques a été appliquée sur le cuir à l'état sec, qui a ensuite été teinté à nouveau par trempage dans un bain contenant une teinture comportant un colorant synthétique et avantageusement des produits de retannage et de nourriture; le cuir a ensuite été séché.As an example of application, the method described with the aid of FIG. 2 was applied to a lambskin, which underwent, from the pickled state, a chromium tanning step, then a put on easel, then a dyeing step with chromium-vegetable retanning, with food products made of synthetic oils; then the skin was dried, then a nitrocellulose lacquer dyed with cellulosic pigments was applied to the leather in the dry state, which was then dyed again by soaking in a bath containing a dye comprising a synthetic dye and advantageously retanning and food products; the leather was then dried.
En fonction de l'objectif recherché pour le dépôt de la couche de finissage, un cadrage notamment, avant le dépôt du produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants peut s'avérer réellement opportun. Par exemple, dans le cas de dépôt d'un motif particulier couvrant toute ou partie de la surface de la peau, mais devant couvrir l'intégralité de la zone portant le motif, c'est à dire les zones en creux comme les zones en reliefs du cuir, un cadrage par exemple, préalable permet d'aplanir le cuir puis au moyen par exemple d'un cylindre applicateur de couvrir le cuir sur l'intégralité de la zone concernée par le dépôt du motif. Dans les deux exemples de mode de réalisation d'un procédé selon l'invention décrits ci-dessus, il a été pratiqué un tannage minéral au chrome ; il est à noter que d'autres types de tannage, par exemple un tannage végétal ou un tannage à base de produits organiques ou synthétiques ou un mélange de ceux-ci peuvent bien sûr également être envisagés. De manière alternative, le produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants peut être un produit en milieu aqueux comprenant par exemple une fixation à base de polyuréthane, les pigments et/ou les colorants étant fonctions de la couleur que l'on désire obtenir. Dans la présente description, deux types de produits de finissage ont été décrits, cependant, d'autres types de produits de finissage connus peuvent être utilisés dans le procédé selon l'invention, dans la mesure où ils sont compatibles avec une application sur un cuir à l'état sec et où ils résistent aux traitements appliqués ultérieurement. Depending on the objective sought for the deposition of the finishing layer, a framing in particular, before the deposition of the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes may prove to be really expedient. For example, in the case of depositing a particular pattern covering all or part of the surface of the skin, but having to cover the entire area bearing the pattern, that is to say the hollow areas such as the reliefs of the leather, for example a preliminary framing makes it possible to flatten the leather and then, for example by means of an applicator cylinder, to cover the leather over the entire area concerned by the deposition of the pattern. In the two exemplary embodiments of a process according to the invention described above, mineral tanning with chromium was carried out; it should be noted that other types of tanning, for example a vegetable tanning or a tanning based on organic or synthetic products or a mixture of these can of course also be envisaged. Alternatively, the finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes can be a product in an aqueous medium comprising, for example, a polyurethane-based fixing, the pigments and / or dyes being functions of the color which is desired. get. In the present description, two types of finishing products have been described, however, other types of known finishing products can be used in the process according to the invention, insofar as they are compatible with an application on leather. when dry and where they resist subsequent treatments.

Claims

R E V E N D I C A T I O N S
1. Procédé de traitement d'un cuir comprenant une étape consistant à déposer (4,1. A method of treating a leather comprising a step consisting in depositing (4,
16) au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage incluant des pigments et/ou des 5 colorants, sur une face au moins dudit cuir lorsque ce dernier est à l'état sec, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisé en ce qu 'il consiste à tremper, dans un bain (5, 17) comportant au moins un produit de teinture, ledit cuir après avoir déposé sur celui-ci ledit produit de finissage.16) at least one layer of a finishing product including pigments and / or dyes, on at least one side of said leather when the latter is in the dry state, in whole or part of said at least one side, characterized in that it consists in soaking, in a bath (5, 17) comprising at least one dyeing product, said leather after having deposited thereon said finishing product.
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à déposer 0 ledit produit de finissage sur une face au moins d'un cuir après tannage (2) et avant teinture (5) dudit cuir.2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists in depositing 0 said finishing product on at least one face of a leather after tanning (2) and before dyeing (5) of said leather.
3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que ledit bain (5,3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said bath (5,
17) comprend en outre un produit de retannage.17) further includes a retanning product.
4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce 5 que ledit bain (5, 17) comprend en outre un produit de nourriture.4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said bath (5, 17) further comprises a food product.
5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une laque nirrocellulosique.5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a nirrocellulosic lacquer.
6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce 0 que ledit produit de finissage comportant des pigments et/ou des colorants comprend une fixation à base de polyuréthane en milieu aqueux.6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said finishing product comprising pigments and / or dyes comprises a fixing based on polyurethane in an aqueous medium.
7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce qu'U. consiste à déposer ladite au moins une couche d'un produit de finissage sur une face au moins dudit cuir, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, au moyen d'un cylindre ^5 applicateur.7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that U. consists in depositing said at least one layer of a finishing product on at least one face of said leather, in whole or part of said at least one face, by means of an applicator cylinder.
8. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à former un motif déterminé avec ledit produit de finissage sur ladite une face au moins du cuir.8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it consists in forming a determined pattern with said finishing product on said at least one face of the leather.
9. Procédé selon les revendications 7 et 8, caractérisé en ce qu 'il consiste à 0 former ledit motif sur la surface dudit cylindre applicateur9. Method according to claims 7 and 8, characterized in that it consists in 0 forming said pattern on the surface of said applicator cylinder
10. Procédé selon les revendications 7 et 8, caractérisé en ce que ledit motif est donné par la surface du cuir, ledit cylindre applicateur possédant une surface d'application sans ledit motif.10. Method according to claims 7 and 8, characterized in that said pattern is given by the surface of the leather, said applicator cylinder having an application surface without said pattern.
11. Cuir comportant un produit de finissage incluant des pigments et/ou des colorants, sur une face au moins du cuir, en tout ou partie de ladite une face au moins, caractérisé en ce que ledit cuir est obtenu avec un procédé suivant l'une des revendications 1 à 10. 11. Leather comprising a finishing product including pigments and / or dyes, on at least one side of the leather, in whole or part of said at least one side, characterized in that said leather is obtained with a process according to one of claims 1 to 10.
PCT/FR2001/000147 2000-01-20 2001-01-18 Leather treatment method and resulting leather WO2001053542A2 (en)

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FR0000681A FR2804138B1 (en) 2000-01-20 2000-01-20 PROCESS FOR TREATING LEATHER AND LEATHER THUS OBTAINED
FR00/00681 2000-01-20

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CN113085434A (en) * 2021-04-09 2021-07-09 宋仕华 Cut painting handicraft and preparation method thereof

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IT202000019747A1 (en) * 2020-08-07 2022-02-07 I Tech S R L “PROCEDURE AND PLANT FOR PROCESSING LEATHER

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FR1406821A (en) * 1964-08-27 1965-07-23 Sandoz Sa Process for dyeing leather
FR1454622A (en) * 1965-10-15 1966-02-11 Basf Ag Process for the simultaneous dyeing and finishing of leather and leather dyed according to this process
FR2342340A1 (en) * 1976-02-28 1977-09-23 Bayer Ag PERFECTED PROCESS FOR THE APPLICATION OF PRIMER COATS ON LEATHER
EP0239482A1 (en) * 1986-03-21 1987-09-30 Stephane Kelian S.A. Process for the manufacture of a leather article, especially a shoe
US4717390A (en) * 1985-01-30 1988-01-05 Sandoz Ltd. Method for dyeing leather with water-soluble sulpho group-containing sulphur dyes
US5240463A (en) * 1991-01-30 1993-08-31 Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft Dyeing leather: exhaustion process using combination of pigment dispersion and aqueous solution of water-soluble sulfur dye

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1406821A (en) * 1964-08-27 1965-07-23 Sandoz Sa Process for dyeing leather
FR1454622A (en) * 1965-10-15 1966-02-11 Basf Ag Process for the simultaneous dyeing and finishing of leather and leather dyed according to this process
FR2342340A1 (en) * 1976-02-28 1977-09-23 Bayer Ag PERFECTED PROCESS FOR THE APPLICATION OF PRIMER COATS ON LEATHER
US4717390A (en) * 1985-01-30 1988-01-05 Sandoz Ltd. Method for dyeing leather with water-soluble sulpho group-containing sulphur dyes
EP0239482A1 (en) * 1986-03-21 1987-09-30 Stephane Kelian S.A. Process for the manufacture of a leather article, especially a shoe
US5240463A (en) * 1991-01-30 1993-08-31 Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft Dyeing leather: exhaustion process using combination of pigment dispersion and aqueous solution of water-soluble sulfur dye

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WO2001053542A3 (en) 2002-01-17
FR2804138B1 (en) 2002-03-29
EP1268862A2 (en) 2003-01-02

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