WO2000047182A1 - Cosmetic compositions containing vitamin b3 compounds - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to topical cosmetic compositions composed primarily of lipophilic materials as the continuous phase and containing vitamin B3 compounds. Such compositions are useful in improving the stability and skin penetration of compositions containing vitamin B3 compounds.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING VITAMIN B₃ COMPOUNDS

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to topical cosmetic comDOsitions composed pπmaπly of lipophilic materials as the continuous phase and containing vitamin B₃ compounds

BACKGROUND OF THE LWΕNTION

Niacin, also known as vitamin B₃, is the common name for nicotmic acid The physiologically active form of niacin is niacmamide, also a member of the vitamin B₃ family of compounds Niacm and macmamide (nicotmic acid amide) function in the body as components of two coenzymes. nicotmamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotmamide adenme dinucleotide phosphate (NADP) Until recently, these vitamm B₃ compounds were used exclusively to treat niacin deficiency and pellegra.

Today, however, vitamm B₃ compounds have also found use in the area of skm care actives British Patent 1,370,236 describes compositions for skin lightening containing 0.5% to 10% niacm. Similarly, U S Patent 4,096,240 discloses the use of 0 1% to 10% niacmamide for skin lightening. Vitamin B₃ compounds have also been found useful m regulating the texture of human skin. See PCT application WO 97-39733, to Oblong et al Moreover, the present inventors have found that incorporating solubilized vitamm B₃ compounds into water-in-oil cosmetic carriers improve the penetration of the vitamin B₃ compounds into the skm, thus, enhancing their skm regulating properties.

However, because most vitamin B₃ compounds are soluble m polar solvents, they can pose stability problems when formulated mto cosmetic compositions composed primarily of lipophilic materials (i.e., forming a lipophilic continuous phase) When formulating such compositions, the polar solvents (e.g., polyhydπc alcohols, water) necessary to dissolve the vitamin B₃ compounds tend to separate from the lipophilic materials, causing the formation of messy looking bulk layers. Moreover, when formulating lipophilic stick compositions (e g., lipsticks), such phase separation manifests itself as liquid beads along the surface of the stick composition This can negatively affect consumer acceptability.

Thus, there exists a need for cosmetic compositions comprising vitamin B₃ compounds which provide improved skm penetration of the vitamm B₃ compound and provide good compositional stability. The present inventors have found that the stability of cosmetic compositions compnsrng a vitamm B₃ compound, a polar solvent and a lipophilic continuous phase can be improved by incorporating surfactant or surfactant mixtures which has a Krafft point at or below about 20 C and form association structures such that the association structures thermodynamically bind the moisturizer/polar solvent and homogeneously absorb in the lipophilic matrix.

It is. therefore, an aspect of the present invention to pro \ ide cosmetic compositions comprising a lipophilic continuous phase and solubilized vitamin B₃ compounds

Another aspect of the present invention is to prov ide cosmetic compositions compπsmg solubilized vitamm B₃ compounds which provide improved skm penetration of the vitamin B₃ compound A further aspect of the present invention is to provide cosmetic stick compositions compnsrng solubilized vitamin B₃ compounds

A still further aspect of the present invention is to provide cosmetic stick compositions comprising a lipophilic continuous phase and solubilized vitamin B₃ compounds stabilized by association structures

Still another aspect of the present invention is to provide cosmetic stick compositions which enhance the penetration of vitamin B₃ compounds into the skm

These and other aspects will become readily apparent from the detailed description which follows SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to topical cosmetic compositions useful for providing enhanced skm penetration of a vitamin B3 compound, comprising from about 0 01% to about 50%, by weight of the composition, of vitamm B₃ compound, from about 1% to about 90%, by weight of the composition, of emollient component comprising from 0 1% to about 100%, by weight of the emollient component, of an oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, from about 0 1% to about 80%, by weight of the composition, of a stabilizing system, comprising thereof, (1) from about 0 1% to about 90%, by weight of the stabilizing system, of a solidifying agent, and (π) from about 0 01% to about 30%, by weight of the stabilizing system, of a surfactant, wherein the surfactant has a Krafft point at or below about 20 Cand forms association structures, and from about 0 01% to about 90%, by weight of the composition, of a polar solvent

All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified All such weights as they pertam to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included m commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Definition

As used herein, the term "cosmetics" includes make-up, foundation, and skm care products The term "make-up" refers to products that leave color on the face, including foundation, blacks and browns, l e , mascara, eye liners, brow colors, eye shadows, blushers, lip colors, and so forth Sk care products are those used to treat or care for, or somehow moisturize, improve, or clean the skin Products contemplated by the phrase "skin care products" include, but are not limited to, adhesives, bandages, toothpaste, anhydrous occlusive moisturizers, powder laundry detergent, fabric softener towels, occlusive drug delivery patches, antiperspirants, deodorants, nail polish, powders, tissues, wipes, solid emulsion compact, hair conditioners-anhydrous and the like The term "foundation" refers to liquid, creme, mousse, pancake, concealer or like product created or remtroduced by cosmetic companies to even out the overall coloring of the skin Foundation is manufactured to work better over moisturized and/or oiled skin

As used herein the term "association structure" refers to an aggregation of surfactant and/or polymer molecules such that they orient themselves forming a composite ordered structure An association structure is also known in the art as a liquid crystalline phase A requirement for the formation of a liquid crystal is the hydrocarbon portion of an amphiphihc molecule is transformed into a state with disorder as that in the liquid state In spite of the high degree of short-range disorder in these structures there is a long- range order in a least one dimension

As used herein, the term "solid material" refers to any solidifying ingredient capable of adsorbing the association structures Solids include waxes, solid fats, clays, fillers, powders, uv-absorbers, suspending agents, waxy emulsifiers or pigments commonly used to thicken or solidify cosmetic compositions

As used herein, "color(s) or colorants" includes pigments, dyes, colors, lakes, and pearl Colors are measured on an anhydrous weight basis

As used herein, the term "lecithin" refers to a material which is a phosphatide Naturally occurring or synthetic phosphatides can be used Phosphatidylcholine or lecithin is a glycerine esterified with a choline ester of phosphoric acid and two fatty acids, usually a long chain saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, having 16-20 carbons and up to 4 double bonds Other phosphatides capable of forming association structures, preferably lamellar or hexagonal liquid crystals, can be used m place of the lecithin or in combination with it Other phosphatides are glycerol esters with two fatty acids as in the lecithm, but the choline is replaced by ethanolamine (a cephahn), or serine (a-aminopropanoic acid, phosphatidyl serine) or an mositol (phosphatidyl inositol)

As used herein, the term "surfactant" refers to a low molecular weight or monomer non-polymeric organic compound amphiphihc in nature, i.e , it has hydrophihc and hydrophobic groups and exhibits a marked tendency to adsorb on a surface or interface and lower the surface tension Surfactants or emulsifiers are divided into nomomc (no charge), anionic (negative charge), catiomc (positive charge) and amphoteπc (both charges) based on whether or not they ionize in aqueous media Surfactants are monomers and are derived from natural oils and fats and crude oils The term "surfactant" as used herein refers to mixtures of surfactants as well as a single organic compound

As used herein, "polar solvent" means a polar material capable of forming an association structure with a surfactant Some examples of polar solvents include glycerine, panthenol (preferably panthenol mixed with glycerine or alcohol), propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, water, alcohols, alkanediols, polyethylene glycols. sorbitol, maltilal and mixtures thereof

As used herein the term "comprising" means that the composition can contain other ingredients which are compatible with the composition and which preferably do not substantially disrupt the association structures of the present inv ention The term encompasses the terms "consisting of and "consisting essentially of

As used herein, the term "ambient temperature" refers to the temperature also known in the art as "room temperature" and typically means about 20°C Generally ambient temperature can range from about 18°C to about 27°C, preferably from about 20°C to about 25°C, depending on such variables as geographical location, l e sub-tropical \ s temperate regions

ESSENTIAL COMPONENTS Vitamin B3 Component

The compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a natural or synthetic vitamin B3 compound The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from above 0 01% to about 50%), more preferably from about 0 1% to about 30%, even more preferably 0 5% to about 20%, most preferably from about 1% to about 10% of the vitamin B3 compound

As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula

wherem R is - CONH2 (1 e , macmamide), - COOH (1 e , nicotinic acid) or - CH2OH (1 e , nicotmyl alcohol), derivatives thereof, and salts of any of the foregoing

Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds mclude nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilatmg esters of nicotinic acid, nicotmyl ammo acids, nicotmyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotmic acid N-oxide and macmamide N-oxide

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters of C1 -C22. preferably Ci -Ci g, more preferably C1 -C5 alcohols The alcohols are suitably straight-chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted The esters are preferably non-rubifacient As used herein, "non-rubifacient" means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible flushing response after application to the skin in the subject compositions (the majority of the general population would not experience a visible flushing response, although such compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye) Alternatively, a nicotinic acid material which is rubifacient at higher doses could be used at a lower dose to reduce the rubifacient effect Non-rubifacient esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol mcotmate and inositol hexanicotmate, tocopherol nicotinate is preferred Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are derivatives of macmamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogens Nonlimitmg examples of derivatives of niacmamide useful herein include nicotmyl ammo acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotmic acid compound (e g , nicotinic acid azide or nicotmyl chloride) with an ammo acid, and nicotmyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e g , Cl - C18) Specific examples of such derivatives mclude nicotinuπc acid and nicotmyl hydroxamic acid, which have the following chemical structures

nicotmunc acid

nicotmyl hydroxamic acid

Exemplary nicotmyl alcohol esters include mcotmyl alcohol esters of the carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycohc acid, palmitic acid and the like Other non-limiting examples of vitamin B3 compounds useful herein are 2-chloronιcotιnamιde, 6-amιnonιcotιnamιde, 6-methylmcotmamide, n-methyl- nicotinamide, n,n-dιethylnιcotιnamιde, n-(hydroxymethyl)-mcotιnamιde, qumohnic acid lmide, mcotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, mfenazone, mcotinaldehyde, isomcotimc acid, methyl isomcotimc acid, thiomcotinamide, malamide, l-(3-pyndylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonιcotιnιc acid, nicomol, and maprazine

Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e g , the Sigma Chemical Company (St Louis, MO), ICN Biomedicals, Inc (Irvm, CA) and Aldπch Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI)

One or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used herein Preferred vitamm B3 compounds are niacmamide and tocopherol nicotinate Niacmamide is more preferred

When used, salts, derivatives, and salt derivatives of niacmamide are preferably those having substantially the same efficacy as macmamide in the methods of regulating skin condition described herein

Salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein Nonlimitmg examples of salts of the vitamin B3 compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with aniomc inorganic species (e g , chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts (including mono-, di- and tn- Cl - C18 carboxylic acid salts, e g , acetate, sahcylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably monocarboxyhc acid salts such as acetate) These and other salts of the vitamin B3 compound can be readily prepared by the skilled artisan, for example, as described by W

Wenner "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-Isoascorbic Acid with Nicotmic Acid and Its Amide", J Organic Chemistry, VOL 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacmamide In a prefened embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B3 compound is substantially chemically free (e g , unbound and/or unliindered), or alter deliveiy to the skm becomes substantially chemically free ("chemically free" is hereinafter alternatively refened to as "uncomplexed") More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is essentially uncomplexed Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B3 compound in a salt or otherwise complexed form, such complex is preferably substantially reversible, more preferably essentially reversible, upon delivery of the composition to the skin For example, such complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of from about 5 0 to about 6 0 Such reversibility can be readily determined by one having ordinary skill in the art

More preferably the vitamin B3 compound is substantially uncomplexed m the composition prior to delivery to the skin Exemplary approaches to minimizing or preventing the formation of undesirable complexes include omission of materials which form substantially ineversible or other complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, pH adjustment, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, and formulating wherein the vitamin B3 compound and materials which complex therewith are in different phases Such approaches are well within the level of ordinary skill in the art

Thus, in a prefened embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably substantially free of salts of a vitamin B3 compound Preferably the vitamin

B3 compound contains less than about 50% of such salt, and is more preferably essentially free of the salt form The vitamin B3 compound in the compositions hereof having a pH of from about 4 to about 7 typically contain less than about 50% of the salt form

The vitamin B3 compound may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e g , plant) sources The vitamin B3 compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure

Vitamin B₃ compounds which exist in crystalline form are particularly prefened for use herein Emollient Component

The compositions of the present invention further comprise an emollient component, suitable for suspending or otherwise dispersing the crystalline vitamin B₃ compound therein Any emollient that is known or otherwise suitable for use in cosmetic applications, and which is also compatible with the vitamin B₃ compound in the composition, may be used in the composition of the present invention

Prefened emollients for use in the composition of the present invention are those materials refened to in the personal care arts as fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids, and combinations thereof, and which aid application and adhesion, yield gloss and most importantly provide occlusive moistuπzation

Suitable emollients for use in compositions of the present inv ention are isosteanc acid derivatives, isopropyl palmitate, lanolin oil, dusopropyl dimerate, maleated soybean oil, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl lactate, cetyl ncmoleate, tocopheryl acetate, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, phenyl tnmethicone, glyceryl oleate, tocopheryl hnoleate, wheat germ glyceπdes, arachidyl propionate, mynstyl lactate, decyl oleate, propylene glycol ncmoleate, isopropyl lanolate, pentaerythntyl tetrastearate, neopentylglycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, hydrogenated coco-glyceπdes, isononyl isononanoate, lsotπdecyl isononanoate, myπstal mynstate, triisocetyl citrate, cetyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, oleyl alcohol, panthenol, lanolin alcohol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, sucrose esters of fatty acids, octyl hydroxystearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable emollients can be found m the Cosmetic Bench Reference, pp 1 19-1.22 (1996), which descriptions are incorporated herein by reference.

Suitable oils for use in compositions of the present invention include esters, tnglycendes, hydrocarbons and sihcones. These can be a single material or a mixture of one or more materials. They will normally comprise from 0 1% to about 100%, preferably from about 5% to about 90%, and most preferably from about 70% to about 90% of the emollient component.

Oils act as emollients and also impart viscosity, tackiness, and drag properties to cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks Examples of suitable oils include capryhc tnglycendes; capnc tnglycende, isosteanc tnglycende; adipic tnglycende; propylene glycol mynstyl acetate; lanolm, lanolin oil; polybutene; isopropyl palmitate; isopropyl mynstate; isopropyl isostearate, diethyl sebacate; dusopropyl adipate; tocopheryl acetate; tocopheryl hnoleate; hexadecyl stearate; ethyl lactate; cetyl oleate; cetyl ncmoleate; oleyl alcohol; hexadecyl alcohol; octyl hydroxystearate; octyl dodecanol; wheat germ oil, hydrogenated vegetable oils; castor oil; petrolamm; modified lanolms; branched-cham hydrocarbons; alcohols and esters; corn oil; cottonseed oil; olive oil; palm kernel oil; rapeseed oil; saffiower oil; jojoba oil; evening primrose oil; avocado oil mineral oil, sheaburter, octylpalmitate, maleated soybean oil, glycerol trioctanoate, dusopropyl dimerate, and volatile and non-volatile sihcone oils including phenyl tnmethicone.

The prefened oils for use herein are acetylglyceπdes, octanoates, and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols, such as those of glycol and glycerol, the πcinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohols such as cetyl ncmoleate, PG-3 dnsostearate, polyglycerol ethers, polyglycerol esters, capryhc tnglycendes, capnc tnglycendes, isosteanc tnglycende, adipic tnglycende, phenyl tnmethicone, lanolin oil, polybutene, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl ncmoleate, octyl dodecanol, oleyl alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable oils, castor oil, modified lanolins, octyl palmitate, lanolm oil, maleated soybean oil, cetyl ncmoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, dusopropyl dimerate, synthetic lanolm derivatives and branched chain alcohols, sucrose esters of fatty acids, octyl hydroxystearate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oils used are selected such that the majority (at least about 75%, preferably at least about 80%) and most preferably at least about 99%) of the types of oils used have solubility parameters which do not differ by more than from about 1 to about 0 1, preferably from about 0.8 to about 0.1

The emollient component comprises from about 1% to about 90%, preferabh from about 10% to about 80%, more preferably from about 20% to about 70%, and most preferably from about 40%o to about 60%, of the cosmetic composition. Stabilizing System

The compositions of the present invention further comprise a stabilizing system The phrase "stabilizing system," as used herein means a system which prevents the coalescence of polar solvent droplets and or, in the case of stick compositions, their migration to the surface of the stick a.) Solidifying Agent

The cosmetic compositions of this invention can contain one or more materials, herein singly or collectively refened to as a " solidifying agent" , that are effective to solidify the particular liquid base materials to be used in a cosmetic composition (As used herem, the term "solidify" refers to the physical and/or chemical alteration of the liquid base material so as to form a solid or semi-solid at ambient conditions, 1 e . to form a final composition which has a stable physical structure and is deposited on the skin during normal use conditions ) As is appreciated by those skilled in the art, the selection of the particular solidifying agent for use in the cosmetic compositions will depend upon the particular type of composition desired, 1 e , gel or wax-based, the desired rheology, the liquid base material used and the other materials to be used in the composition The solidifying agent is preferably present at a concentration of from about 0 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 1 to about 50%, even more preferably from about 5% to about 40%, most preferably from about 3%> to about 20%

The wax cosmetic stick embodiments of this invention preferably contain from about 5%> to about 50% (by weight) of a waxy solidifying agent By the term "waxy solidifying agent," as used herein, is meant a solidifying material having wax-like charactenstics Such waxy materials may also serve as emollients Among the waxy materials useful herein are the high melting point waxes, I e , having a melting point of from about 65°C to about 125°C, such as beeswax, spermaceti, carnauba, baysberry, candehlla, montan, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin synthetic waxes such as Fisher-Tropsch waxes, microcrystallme wax, and mixtures thereof Ceresin, ozokerite, white beeswax, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof, are among the prefened high-meltmg point waxes useful herein Compositions containing waxes among those useful herein are disclosed in U S Patent 4,049,792, Elsnau, issued Sept 20, 1977, herem incorporated by reference in its entirety) Low melting waxes, having a melting point of from about 37°C to about 75°C, are prefened for use m the wax stick embodiments of this invention Wax stick embodiments of this invention, which contain volatile sihcone oils as a liquid base material, preferably contain from about 10% to about 35%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20% (by weight), of a low-meltmg wax Such materials include fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty acids amides, having fatty chains of from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof Prefened wax-like materials include cetyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, behenamide, sucrose esters of tallow fatty acids, mono and di-fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof Stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtuies thereof, are particularly prefened Fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and other wax-like materials useful in this invention are also disclosed m the following references, all of which are incorporated by reference herein U S Patent 4,151,272, Geary, et al , issued Apr 24, 1979, U S Patent 4,229,432, Geπa, issued Oct 21, 1980, and U S Patent 4 280,994, Turney, issued July 28, 1981 , "The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes", A H Warm, 2nd Edition, reprinted in 1960, Reinhold Publishing Corporation, pp 391-393 and 421, "The Petroleum Chemicals Industry", R F Goldstein and A L Waddeam, 3rd Edition (1967), E & F N Span Ltd , pp 33-40, "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics", M G DeNavane, 2nd edition ( 1970), Van Nostrand & Company, pp 354-376, and in "Encylopedia of Chemical Technology , Vol 24, Kirk-Othmer, 3rd Edition (1979) pp 466-481 Prefened wax-like materials useful as solidifying agents m the present wax sticks are described m U S Patent 4,126,679, Davy, et al , issued Nov 21, 1978, herein incorporated by reference in its entirety Prefened mixtures of wax-like materials comprise fatty alcohols containing carbon chains of from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms, and alcohols having chain lengths of 20 carbons or longer, wherein the final mixture contains from about 1% to about 3% (by weight) of the longer-chain fatty alcohols Compositions containing these fatty alcohol mixtures are described in European Patent Specification No 117,070, May, published Aug 29, 1984 (incorporated by reference herein)

Also useful herein are biopolymers such as those described in European Application No 522624, to Dunphy et al . herein incorporated by reference in its entirety

The gel stick embodiments of this invention preferably contain from about 3% to about 30%, preferably from about 3% to about 10% (by weight), of a solidifying agent The particular amount of solidifying agent to be used will depend upon the particular solidifying agent and the liquid base material used, and the desired physical characteristics of the gel stick Solidifying agents useful in the gel stick embodiments of this invention are, m general, surface-active compounds which form networks immobilizing or solidifying the liquid base materials into a gel Such solidifying agents include soaps, such as the sodium and potassium salts of higher fatty acids, l e , acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, amides of higher fatty acids, higher fatty acid amides of alkylolamines, dibenzaldehyde-monosorbitol acetals, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts of the acetates, propionates and lactates, waxes, such as candehlla and carnauba waxes, and mixtures thereof Among those solidifying agents prefened for use in the gel stick embodiments of this invention are sodium stearate, sodium palmitate, alummum stearate, aluminum magnesium hydroxy stearate, and mixtures thereof Gel stick compositions containing solidifying agents among those useful herein are described in the following patent documents, all incorporated herem by reference in their entirety U S Patent 2,900,306, Slater, issued Aug 18, 1959, U S Patent 3,255,082, Barton issued June 7, 1966, U S Patent 4,137,306, Rubmo, et al , issued Jan 30, 1979, U S Patent 4,154,816, Roehl, et al , issued May 15, 1979, U S Patent 4,226,889, Yuhas, issued Oct 7, 1980, U S Patent 4,346,079, Roehl, issued Aug 24 1982, U S Patent 4,383,988, Teng, et al issued May 17, 1983, European Patent Specification No 107,330, Luebbe, et al , published May 2, 1984, and U S patent application Ser No 630,790, DiPietro, filed July 13, 1984 Prefened solidifying agents useful in the gel stick embodiments of the present invention are described in European Patent Specification No 24,365 Sampson, et al published Mar 4, 1981, incorporated herein by reference m its entirety

Also useful herein as solidifying agents are conventional thickening agents Examples of suitable thickeners include, but are not limited to, naturally-occumng polymeric materials such as, locust bean gum, sodium alginate, sodium caseinate, egg albumin, gelatin agar, canageenin gum sodium alginate, xanthan gum, quince seed extract, tragacanth gum, starch, chemically modified starches and the like, semi-synthetic polymeric materials such as cellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxy propylmethyl cellulose), polyvinylpynolidone, polyvinylalcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, soluble starch, cationic celluloses, cationic guars and the like and synthetic polymeric materials such as carboxyvinyl polymers, polyvinylpynolidone, polyvinyl alcohol polyacrylic acid polymers, polymethacrylic acid polymers, polyvinyl acetate polymers, polyvinyl chloride polymers, polyvmylidene chloride polymers and the like. Inorganic thickeners may also be used such as aluminium silicates, such as, for example, bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. Naturally occuning polymers or biopolymers and their use are further described in European Application No. 522624, to Dunphy et al. Additional examples of naturally occuning polymers or biopolymers can be found in the Cosmetic Bench Reference, pp. 1.40-1.42, herein incorporated by reference.

Also useful herein as solidifying agents are hydrophilic gelling agents such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trademark of Carbopol Registered TM resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water- soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with from 0.75% to 2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934,Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are carbomers sold under the Trade Name "Carbopol Ultrez 10, Carbopol ETD2020, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). Combination of the above polymers are also useful herein. Other gelling agents suitable for use herein include oleogels such as trihydroxystearin.

Hydrophobically modified celluloses are also suitable for use herein as solidifying agents. These celluloses are described in detail in U.S. Patents 4,228,277 and 5,104,646, both of which are herein incorporated by reference in their entirety.

Additional examples of suitable gelling agents or gellants can be found in the Cosmetic Bench Reference, p. 1.27, herein incorporated by reference.

Without being limited by theory, the solidifying agent in combination with the emollient is believed to act as an occlusive on the skin by forming continuous or discontinuous bi-layer or multi-layer films on the skin. The term "occlusive," as used herein, means a preventing or obstructing something, in this case, preventing the removal of moisture (via evaporation) and the vitamin B₃ compound (via film binding) from the surface of the skin. b.) Surfactant The compositions of the present invention further comprise a surfactant Surfactants suitable for use m the compositions of the present invention, are those which can lorm association structures, preferably lamellar liquid crystals or reverse hexagonal, at ambient temperamre when mixed with a polar solvent Ambient temperature/room temperature as used herein typically means about 20°C Generally ambient temperamre can range from about 18°C to about 27°C, preferably from about 20°C to about 25°C, depending on such variables as geographical location, 1 e sub-tropical vs temperate regions One of ordinary skill in the art is able to determine if association structures form at ambient temperatures The surfactants suitable for use generally have a Krafft point at or below about ambient temperature about 20°C or generally at or below about 18°C to about 27°C, preferably at or below from about 20°C to about 25°C

The definition of Krafft point is well known in the art and one of ordinary skill in the art can determine a surfactant's Krafft point In general terms, Krafft point is the melting point of the hydrocarbon chains of the surfactants It can also be expressed as the temperamre at which the solubility of an association colloid in water suddenly increases because critical micelle concentration is exceeded and micelles form See Ekwall , P , "Composition, Properties and Strucmre of Liquid Crystalline Phases in Systems of Amphiphi c Compounds" Advances m Liquid Crystals Vol I, Chapter I, p 81

In preparing a sample combination of surfactant and polar solvent to demonstrate the ability to form association structures, the surfactant needs to be sufficiently soluble in the polar solvent such that an association strucmre can form at ambient temperamre One of ordinary skill in the art is capable of determining compatible interactions

Any surfactant which forms association structures at ambient temperature and is suitable for use m cosmetics is suitable for use herein Surfactants suitable for use in cosmetics do not present dermatological or toxicological problems Amonic surfactants, nomonic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteπc surfactants and mixtures thereof are suitable for use Preferably amonic surfactants, nomonic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteπc surfactants and mixtures thereof having a Krafft point at or below about ambient temperamre are used More preferably, nomonic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteπc surfactants and mixtures thereof having a Krafft point at or below about ambient temperamre are used

Surfactants suitable for use herein are found in U S Patent 5,843,407 to El-Nokaly, herein mcorporated by reference

The association structures of the present invention are also useful in improving the skm penetration of the vitamin B₃ compound Without being limited by theory, the association structures are believed to act either as an occlusive or entrapping matrix on the skin by forming continuous or discontinuous bi-layer or multi-layer films on the skm The term "occlusive," as used herein, means a preventing or obstructing something, in this case preventing the removal of moisture (via evaporation) and the vitamin B₃ compound (via film binding) from the surface of the skin The term "entrapping matrix" as used herein, refers to unilamellar, multilamellar vesicles, cylindrical micelles, hexagonal liquid crystals, lamellar liquid crystals, or cubic phase liquid crystals capable of binding to the skin The entrapping matrix entraps the vitamm B₃ compound and thus maintains skm contact with the vitamin B₃ compound Furthermore, since the association structures of the present invention are thermodynamically stable, it is believed that the entrapped or bound polar solvent is slowly released over time The slow release of the polar solvent thereby aids in maintaining the vitamin B₃ compound in solubilized form, thus, improving skin penetration of the vitamin B₃ compound The occlusive effect is even further enhanced by the addition of the waxy or wax-like (or gel-like) solidifying agents disclosed above

The surfactants can be used at levels from about 4% to about 97%>, preferably from about 5% to about 95%), more preferably from about 20% to about 90% and most preferably from about 30% to about 70% of the association structure Polar Solvent

The solvents useful for making the association structures of the present invention include any polar solvent In general, "polar solvents" refers to those solvents that contain hydroxyl and/or carbonyl groups and also have high dielectric constants and strong polarity Suitable polar solvents include water, alcohols, such as ethanol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexanol, and benzyl alcohol, polyols, such as propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, maltitol, sorbitol, and glycerine, panthenol dissolved in glycerine, flavor oils, and mixtures thereof Mixtures of these solvents can also be used Prefened polar solvents are polyhydπc alcohols and water Examples of prefened solvents include glycerine, panthenol m glycerine, glycols such as propylene glycol and butylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, water and mixtures thereof The most prefened polar solvents for use are alcohols, glycerine, panthenol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures thereof

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention will comprise from about 0 01% to about 90%, preferably from about 0 1% to about 60%, more preferably from about 1% to about 30% and most preferably from about 3% to about 18%) by weight of the composition of polar solvent Preferably, the solvents are used in relation to the association structures atlevels of from about 3%> to about 96%, preferably from about 5% to about 95%>, more preferably from about 10% to about 80% and most preferably from about 30% to about 70% by weight of the association structure Preparation of the Association Structure

Formation of the association structure, I e , cylindrical reverse micelles and/or liquid crystals and the concentration at which such association structures occur is dependent upon a variety of factors, including the specific types of surfactant, solvent, temperamre, solubility of the surfactant in the solvent, and concentration of the surfactant in the earner The purity of the surfactant affects the concentration level at which the association structures and particularly the prefened form of lamellar liquid crystals form

The polar solvent and surfactant are mixed together Formation of the association strucmre, particularly the prefened lamellar or hexagonal liquid crystalline state is accelerated by mechanical agitation Mixing, can be performed either by hand (I e , using hand utensils) or with mechamcal equipment useful for home, institutional, or industrial cosmetic preparation Extruders which provide a shearing operation w ith mixing can be used

The one -phase liquid crystal is most prefened It is prefened that a substantially two phase liquid crystal, one-phase liquid crystal or single phase liquid crystal component of (preferablv at least 90%) be utilized

Separation and thus detection of the association structure from excess liquid (solvent or solution) or solid may be achieved by ultracentrifugation Ultracentrifugation should be conducted using sufficiently high centrifugal forces (preferably within the range of from about 20,000 rpm to about 60,000 rpm for from about one hour to about sixteen hours utilizing a Beckman L8-80 centrifuge equipped with a SW6OT1 Rotor or by applying about 300,000*g for about one hour) to induce the formation of observable phase boundaries over a period of time Under these conditions a good separation of the individual phases is obtained The volume of each phase is determined by calibration of the centrifuge tube and the volume fraction of the individual phase thus calculated

Optionally, the compositions of the present invention may also include additional colloidal strucmres Nonlimitmg examples of such colloid structures emulsions and gel networks A detailed description of these and other useful colloid strucmres is found in Niels J Krog, Food Emulsifiers. pp 141- 188, Marcel Dekker, Inc , (1997), herein incorporated by reference in its entirety

OPTIONAL COMPONENTS Color

Certain embodiments of the present invention, preferably lipsticks or lip paints, may further comprise from about 0 1%> to about 90%>, preferably from about 1% to about 35%o, more preferably from about 1% to about 20% and most preferably from about 5% to about 15%, of color, on an anhydrous pigment weight basis These are usually aluminum, barium or calcium salts or lakes Preferably, dyes are present at from about 0 1% to about 4% and pearls from 0% to about 20%)

Pigments are typically dispersed m emollients for the good dispersion of the pigments when incorporated into the lip compositions, thus providing an even distribution of color Excellent dispersion of the pigment can be achieved by utilizing association structures, preferably lamellar liquid crystals, as a means of incorporating the color/pigments into the cosmetic compositions of the present

A prefened method of incorporating dry pigments comprises the steps of

(a) preparing a mixture consisting essentially of

(1 ) a polar solvent, and

(2) a surfactant selected from the group consisting of amphoteπc, cationic, amonic and nomonic surfactants having a Krafft point at or below about ambient temperamre and mixtures thereof, and

(b) stimng said mixture until association structuies form

(c) adding and mixing dry pigments until achieving a homogenous mixture,

(d) milling said mixture until uniform particle size is achieved and (e) adding and mixing the mixture of (c) to the remaining ingredients until a homogenous mixture is obtained

If the ingredients of the cosmetic composition are being processed such that the association strucmres are being formed m situ, the prefened method of incorporating the dry pigments is to slurry them in one or more of the liquid emollient ingredients

Colors/pigments suitable for use herein are all inorganic and organic colors/pigments suitable for use in lipstick compositions

Lakes are either a pigment that is extended or reduced with a solid diluent or an organic pigment that is prepared by the precipitation of a water-soluble dye on an adsorptive surface, which usually is aluminum hydrate There is uncertainty in some instances as to whether the soluble dye precipitates on the surface of the aluminum hydrate to yield a dyed inorganic pigment or whether it merely precipitates in the presence of the substrate A lake also forms from precipitation of an insoluble salt from an acid or basic dye Calcium and barium lakes are also used herein

Lakes suitable for use in the present invention include Red 3 Aluminum Lake, Red 21 Aluminum Lake, Red 27 Aluminum Lake, Red 28 Aluminum Lake, Red 33 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 6 Aluminum Lake, Yellow 10 Aluminum Lake, Orange 5 Aluminum Lake and Blue 1 Aluminum Lake, Red 6 Barium Lake, Red 7 Calcium Lake

Other colors and pigments can also be included in the lipsticks, such as dyes and pearls, titanium oxides, Red 6, Red 21, Brown, Russet and Sienna dyes, chalk, talc, iron oxides and titanated micas

Preferably, the color component is water-insoluble particulate solids having an average primary particle size diameter of less than about 5 microns, preferably 2 microns, more preferably 1 microns

Without being limited by theory it is believed that such solid particulates position themselves at the interface of dispersed droplets (l e the discontinuous phase) and the continuous phase to serve as baniers, preventing the coalescence of the dispersed droplets and, hence, improving stabilization A more detailed explanation of this phenomenon is described in S E Fπberg and Kare Larsson, Food Emulsions, pp 36-41, Marcel Dekker. Inc (1997), herein incorporated by reference in its entirety

Dispersants may also be used in conjunction with the colors and pigments of the present invention Examples of suitable dispersants include, but are not limited to, those described in U S Patent 5,688,493, herein incorporated by reference in its entirety Other Additives

Other optional ingredients

can be present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include the flavor oils,, fat soluble vitamins such as vitamin A and E, esters of vitamin A (e g , acetate, propionate, or palmitate) and of vitamin E (e g , acetate or sorbate), sunscreens such as octyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, germicides such as tπclosan anti-mflammatory agents -uch as hydrocortisone hpid matenals such as ceramides and hposomes and skm care actives The cosmetic compositions can comprise ingredients conventionally employed in cosmetic compositions such as mascara, foundation or hpcare products. This includes skm care active mgredients such as pharmaceutically activ e ingredients

Skm care actives ingredients in both water soluble and water insoluble forms can be added to the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. These include, but are not limited to vitamm C and its derivatives (e.g , ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl phosphate and its salts such as magnesium or sodium), vitamin D, panthenol, retmoic acid, zinc oxide, beta-glycyerhetic acid, chamomile oil; ginko biloba extract, pyroglutamic acid, salts or esters, sodium hyaluronate, 2-hydroxyoctanoιc acid; sulfur; salicylic acid; carboxymethyl cysteme, and mixtures thereof.

These additives, both fat soluble and water soluble, will normally be present in amounts of less than about 10% by weight, and generally m the range of about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 1%, by weight

Flavor oils such as peppermint oil, orange oil, citrus oil, wintergreen oil can be used along with an alcohol or glycerine Flavor oils are usually mixed m a solvent such as ethanol to dilute the flavor. The flavor oils useful herein can be derived from natural sources or be synthetically prepared Generally flavor oils are mixtures of ketones, alcohols, fatty acids, esters and terpenes The term "flavor oil" is generally recognized in the art to be a liquid which is derived from botanical sources, i.e leaves, bark, or skm of fruits or vegetables, and which are usually insoluble in water. The level of flavor oil used can range from 0% to about 5%, preferable from 0%> to about 1%

Additional moisturizers may also be included into the present compositions. Prefened moisturizers include pyrrohdone carboxylic acid, sodium lactate or lactic acid, urea, guamdine, glyceπc acid and its salts (e.g., calcium salt), petrolatum, collagen, α-hydroxy propylglyceryl ether, α-hydroxy acids (e.g., ethylglycohc acid, leucic acid, mandehc acid, glycohc acid), glucosamines, and elastin fibers, D- panthenol, allantom and hyaluronic acid and chondroitm sulfate. Examples of suitable moisturizers can be found in Cosmetic Bench Reference, p. 1.30-1.32 ( 1996), herein incorporated by reference.

Also useful herein are emulsifiers commonly known as coupling agents can also be used herein. The overall concentration of the emulsifier can be from 0%> to about 20%) of the formulation, preferably from 0% to about 15% and most preferably from about 1 % to about 10%. Examples of suitable emulsifiers can be found in U.S. Patent 5,085,856 to Dunphy et al.; Japanese Patent Publication Sho 61-83110; European Patent Application EP 522624 to Dunphy et al., U.S patent 5,688,831 to El-Nokaly et al.; and Examples of suitable moistures can be found m Cosmetic Bench Reference, pp 1.22, 1.24-1 26 (1996), all of which are herein incorporated by reference in their entirety

A prefened embodiment of the present invention preferably comprises, a ) from about 1% to about 10%, niacmamide, b ) from about 0 1% to about 50%), preferably from about 0 1% to about 15%>, polar solvent c.) from about 0 1% to about 20%, surfactants of the cosmetic composition and d) from about 0 1% to about 50% of an oil that is liquid at ambient temperamre The surfactants are preferably a mixture wherein from about 50% to about 75% of the mixture is made up of surfactants which have a Krafft point of at or below about ambient temperamre and form association strucmres at ambient temperamre and from about 25% to about 50% of the mixture is made up of surfactants which are coupling agents Another prefened mixture of surfactants which can form association strucmres and surfactants which act as coupling agent is lecithin, PG-3 dnsosterate, sorbitan monooleate, cholesterol 12 hydroxystearate and dipentaerythntol fatty acid ester

A prefened optional component is ethyl cellulose (Ethocel) Ethyl cellulose generally is prefened for use at levels of about 5% and more preferably 1%

Another prefened optional component is silica Silica is generally prefened for use at levels of from about 1% and about 5%

Hypoallergemc compositions can be made from the liquid crystal, wax, oil and colors herein These lipsticks should not contain fragrances, flavor oils, lanolin, sunscreens, particularly PABA, or other sensitizers or potential sensitizers and lmtants

The compositions of the present invention can also be made into long lasting or non- transferable cosmetic compositions Detailed discussions of such lipsticks are found in Japanese Patent Publication Hei No 6-199630 and European Patent Application 748622, both of which are herein incorporated by reference in their entirety

Additional optional materials that can be incorporated m the compositions of the present invention can be found in PCT application WO 97/39733, to Oblong et al

METHODS OF MANUFACTURING

The present invention encompasses methods of preparing stable cosmetic compositions comprising vitamin B₃ compounds Conventional formulation and mixing techniques can be used and generally comprise dissolving vitamin B₃ compounds m a polar solvent and adding the solution to a hydrophobic base composed of an emollient component, and a stabilizing system comprising a solidifying agent and a surfactant, yielding a cosmetic composition comprised as described above In a prefened embodiment, this invention provides a method of improving the skin penetration of vitamin B₃ compounds, especially in lips and improving product stability Conventional formulation and mixing techniques are described in detail in Harry's Cosmeticology, pp 119-141 and 314-354 (J B Wilkinson and R J Moore 7^th ed 1982) and Cosmetics Science and Technology, pp 1-104 and 307-422 (M S Balsam and E Sagarin 2^nd ed 1972), both of which are herein incorporated by reference in their entirety

METHODS OF USE

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are ideally suited for use in treating the skm and lips, especially in the form of a lipstick or lip balm for applying to the lips a permanent or semipermanent color, ideally with a gloss or luster finish The cosmetic compositions can also be used in treating the skin and/or lips with a skin care agent for protection against exposure to adverse weather, including the wind and the rain, dry and or hot environments, environmental pollutants (e g , ozone, smoke, and the like), or exposure to excessive doses of sunlight The compositions are also useful in providing sun protection, moisturizing and or conditioning for the hair and skm, improved skin feel, regulating skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, reducing oily shme on hair or skm, skm lightening and reducing skm or hair odor

The cosmetic composition can, accordingly, be applied to the skin and/or lips in the traditional manner using a convenient holder or applicator to provide a decorative and/or protective film thereto

EXAMPLES

The cosmetic formulations illustrated m Examples I-X illustrate specific embodiments of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, but are not intended to be limiting thereof Other modifications can be undertaken by the skilled artisan without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention These exemplified embodiments of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention provide improve the skin penetration of the vitamin B₃ compound as well as improve the stability of the cosmetic composition

All exemplified compositions can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques Component amounts are listed as weight percents and exclude mmor materials such as diluents, filler, and so forth. The listed formulations, therefore, comprise the listed components and any minor materials associated with such components

Example I-Lipstick Composition

Ingredient Weight %

Castor Oil 18.5

Isopropyl palmitate 11.6

Caprylic/capπc/isosteaπc/adipic 7.0 tnglycende

Lanolin 7.0

Red 21 Aluminum Lake 7 0

Candehlla wax 6 6

Propylene glycol mynstyl ether 6 0 acetate

Capryhc/capπc tnglycende 5 8

Glycerol 5 0

Water 5 0

Niacmamide 1 0

Titanium dioxide 4 7

Beeswax 4 1

Monoglyceπde 3.5

Lanolin oil 2.5

Ozokerite wax 2.5

Phosphohpid (soybean lecithin) 1.0

Polybutene 0 8

Carnauba wax 0 4

The above ingredients are added to a stainless steel vessel equipped with a heating source The ingredients are heated to about 85°C and mixed until a homogeneous This mixture is then poured into a mold and cooled to room temperamre. The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisturization and improved skin penetration of the niacinamide.

Example II- Lipstick Composition

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

Carnauba 1.50

Ozokerite 6.00

Candelillia 4.00

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 5.00

Acetylated Lanolin 4.00

Isopropyl Isostearate 11.90

Isostearic Acid 10.00

Propylparaben 0.10

Cetyl Ricinoleate 10.00

Ascorbyl Palmitate 1.00

Silica L-700 1.00

Polybutene 2.00

Petrolatum 5.50

Association Structure Phase

Sucrose Monooleate 14.00

Niacinamide 2.00

Glycerine 12.00

Pigment 9.00

The ingredients for the Association Structure Phase, except for the pigments, are mixed until association structures are formed. Once the association structures are formed, the pigments are added and milled on a three roll mill. The mixture is then mixed with the other ingredients and mixed until a homogeneous mixture. (Or, alternatively, the above components are added and mixed together at the same time.) This mixture is heated to 85°C and then poured into a mold at room temperature.

The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisturization and improved skin penetration of the niacinamide.

Example Ill-Lipstick Composition

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

Carnauba 1.50

Ozokerite 6.00

Candelillia 4.00

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 9.00

Isopropyl Palmitate 9.40

Isostearic Acid 11.50

Acetylated Lanolin 4.00

Propylparaben 0.10

Cetyl Ricinoleate 10.00

Ascorbyl Palmitate 1.00

Silica L-700 1.00

Polybutene 2.00

Petrolatum 5.50 Association Structure

Phase

Sucrose Monooleate 12.00

Niacinamide 2.00

Glycerine 12.00

Pigment 9.00

The composition is prepared and used as in Example II.

Example IV-Lipstick Composition

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

Carnauba 1.50

Ozokerite 5.50

Candelillia 4.00

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 8.50

Acetylated Lanolin 4.00

Propylparaben 0.10

Cetyl Ricinoleate 10.00

Ascorbyl Palmitate 1.00

Polybutene 2.00 5.97

Polysiloxane Copolymer Petrolatum 5.97 Anhydrous Lanolin 5.97

Association Structure Phase

Lecithin 22.95

Niacinamide 2.50

Panthenol 1.00

Glycerine 6.00

Pigment 9.00 water 4.04

#1154-141-1, supplied by GE Silicones.

The composition is prepared as in Example II.

Example V- Antiperspirant Gel Stick

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

N-Lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-di-n-butyl amide¹ 4

12-hydroxystearic acid 2 water 2.0

Niacinamide 2

Lecithin 0.1

Light mineral oil² 21.1 Dusopropyl Sebacate³ 40.8 Aluminum Zirconium 25

Talc 3

OP-! supplied by Ajinomoto, Inc.

²Benol White Mineral Oil supplied by Witco Chemical Corp.

³Schercemol DIS supplied by Scher Cherfficals Inc. In a stainless steel vessel, macmamide is dissolved in water and combmed with lecithm to form the association structures Separately, the gelling agent and the liquid base material are combmed mto a vessel equipped with a heat source Heat the mixture to between about 80°C and about 130°C with stirring, until the mixture forms a homogeneous, molten solution Preferably, the homogeneous, molten solution is allowed to cool to a mixing temperature; typically between about 65°C and 120°C. (Alternatively, the mixture may simply be heated to the mixing temperature until the mixture forms a homogeneous, molten solution. This alternative method, however, typically takes longer than heatmg at high temperatures and then coolmg ) Add the macmamide mixture, antiperspirant active and other mgredients, such as fragrances and colors, mto the homogeneous, molten solution m the above vessel with stirnng. Allow the mixture to cool until it begins thickemng and then pour the mixture mto containers allowmg them to cool to ambient temperature (Although not prefened, the antiperspirant active may alternatively be added along with the gelling agent and the liquid base material in the first step )

An antiperspirant composition, comprised as above, is applied to the underarm area of a human subject, and reduces the perspiration m the applied area and improves odor in this area

Example Vl-Sohd Antiperspirant Stick

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

Stearyl Alcohol 9.8

Niacmamide 0.1

Lecithm 1.0

Butylene Glycol 1.2

Hydrogenated Castor Oil-mp 86 degrees C. 4.0

Alummum Chlorohydroxide 40.0

Isopar "V"' 42.9

Fragrance 1.0

'(Isopar "V" Avg. Mol. Wt. 197 B P Range, 255-301 degrees C.) -

In a stainless steel vessel, macmamide is dissolved m butylene and combmed with lecithm to form the association structures Separately , the isoparaffin liquids, the water-insoluble liquid emollients, the surface active agent, and the water-insoluble waxes are combmed and heated to a temperature sufficient to form a solution of these materials, followed by the addition of the active astringent antiperspirant salts with gentle agitation Following addition of the macmamide mixture and salts, other optional mgredients such as talc may then be added and mixed until a homogenous suspension is formed The suspension is cooled to a temperature above the solidification point and is then poured mto suitable contamers.

An antiperspirant composition, compnsed as above, is applied to the underarm area of a human subject, and reduces the perspiration in the applied area and improves odor in this area.

Example VH-Antiperspirant Cream

Ingredient Amount (weight percent) cyclomethicone (D5) 41.5 dimethicone (350 cs) 4.0

Cab-O-Sil HS-5¹ 4.0

Microthene FN510² 6.0

Natrosol³ 2.0

Lecithin 0.5

Niacinamide 0.5

Glycerin 3.0 iso-eicosane⁴ 13.0

Reach AZ⁵ 26.7 fragrance 0.8

'Colloidal silica thickening material, sold by Cabot Corporation. - ²Low density polyethylene powder, sold by U.S.I. Chemicals. - ³Hydroxyethylcellulose, sold by Hercules, Inc. - ⁴2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane, obtained from

Permethyl Corporation, Frazier, PA. - ⁵Zirconium-aluminum-glycine hydroxychloride complex, particulate antiperspirant active material, sold by Reheis Chemical Company. -

The cyclomethicone dimethicone, iso-eicosane and perfume are added to a stainless steel mixing vessel. The Cab-O-Sil is then added, followed by the Microthene and Natrosol and, finally, the antiperspirant active. The composition is thoroughly stirred after addition of each particulate material.

The composition is then milled, using a Black & Decker Die Grinder (Model 4420, type 4) with a 6.35 cm diameter Cowles dispersing blade at approximately 6,000 rpm, for approximately 5 minutes. The penetration force value of the milled composition is approximately 300 grams at 25o C. and 50% relative humidity.

An antiperspirant cream formulation, comprised as above, is applied to the underarm area of a human subject, and reduces the perspiration in the applied area and improves odor in this area.

Example VHI-Mascara

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

Carnauba Wax 3.00

Glyceryl Monostearate¹ 7.50

White Beeswax 3.75

C18-C36 Triglycerides² 5.50

Hydrogenated Glycerol Rosinate³ 0.15

Propylparaben 0.10

Paraffin Wax 118/125 2.25

Paraffin Wax 2.25

Lecithin⁴ 2.25

Stearic Acid 3X 4.00

Oleic Acid 0.75

Triethanolamine 1.25

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate⁵ 1.00

Shellac, NF 3.00 Triethanolamine 0.47

Trisodium EDTA 0.10

Black Iron Oxide 7.00

Dimethicone 0.20

Methylparaben 0.20

Ethylparaben 0.15

Phenoxyethanol 0.80

Ethyl Alcohol 40B, 190 proof 4.00

Diazolidinyl Urea 0.20

Deionized Water 44.78 dl-Panthenol 0.35 niacinamide 5.00

Total 100.00

¹ Available as Emerest 2400 available form Henkel/Emery -

² Available as Syncrowax HGL-C available from Croda, Inc. -

³ Available as Foral 105 available from Hercules, Inc. -

⁴ Available as Centrolex F available from Central Soya, Inc. -

⁵ Available as Amphisol K available from Givaudan -

The waxes and fats are mixed in a vessel equipped with a heating source. The waxes and fats are heated and mixed at low speed using a conventional blender to liquify the mixture. The mixing is continued until the mixture is homogeneous. To the homogenous mixture is added the pigments. The mixing rate is increased to high and the pigments are mixed into the mixture for about 30-35 minutes until uniformly dispersed. The mixing is continued while adding emulsifiers.

In a second vessel equipped with a heating source is added water followed by the niacinamide, lecithin and any other water-dispersable components. The mixture is heated and mixed to a temperature of from about 80-95°C. Additional water is added as necessary to account for water loss.

The aqueous and lipophilic mixtures are combined and mixed using a dispersator type mixer. Mixing is continued until the mixture cools to a temperature of from about 65-70°C. Preservatives are added with mixing, allowing the mixture to cool further to 45-47°C. Any remaining components are added with mixing. The combined mixture is cooled to a temperamre above the solidification point and is then poured into suitable containers.

The mascara composition is applied to the lashes and/or eyebrows to provide softening, moisturization and conditioning.

Example IX-Mascara

Ingredient Amount (weight percent)

Carnauba Wax 2.00

Glyceryl Monostearate¹ 8.50

White Beeswax 3.25

C17-C36 Triglycerides² 5.50

Hydrogenated Glycerol 0.15

Rosinate³

Propylparaben 0.10

Paraffin Wax 118/125 2.25 Paraffin Wax 2.25

Lecithin⁴ 2.50

Stearic Acid 3X 4.00

Oleic Acid 0.75

Triethanolamine 2.00

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate⁵ 1.00

Deionized Water 41.03

Shellac, NF 3.00

Triethanolamine 0.47

PVP/VA Copolymer⁶ 0.25

Black Iron Oxide 10.00

Simethicone 0.20

Methylparaben 0.20

Ethylparaben 0.15

Phenoxyethanol 0.80

Ethyl Alcohol 40B, 190 proof 4.00

Diazolidinyl Urea 0.20

Trisodium EDTA 0.10 dl-Panthenol 0.35 niacinamide 5.00

Total 100.00

¹ Available as Emerest 2400 available form Henkel/Emery -

² Available as Syncrowax HGL-C available from Croda, Inc. -

³ Available as Foral 105 available from Hercules, Inc. -

⁴ Available as Centrolex F available from Central Soya, Inc.

⁵ Available as Amphisol K available from Givaudan -

⁶ Available as PVP/VA S-630 available from ISP -

The mascara is prepared and used as in Example VIII.

Example X-Lipsticks

Ex. Xa Ex. Xb

INGREDIENT WT. %. WT. %.

Polybutene 4.536 4.536

Lanolin Oil 18.342 18.342

Octoxyglyceryl Behenate 18.342 18.342

Stearyl heptanoate 8.856 8.856

Jojoba oil 8.856 8.856 castor oil 19.28 24.08

Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.054 0.054

Butylated hydroxyamsole 0.054 0.054

Microcrystallme Wax 6.84 6.84

Polyethylene 500 6.84 6.84

Association Phase

Lecithin 0.475 0.475

Water 6 1.2

Niacinamide 1 1

Cholesterol 0.475 0.475 dicetyl phosphate 0.05 0.05 In a suitable vessel, the castor oil, polybutene, lanolin oil, octoxyglyceryl behenate, stearyl heptanoate, jojoba oil, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyamsole microcrystallme wax, polyethylene 500 are added to a vessel equipped with a heat source and heated to a temperamre of from about 100-1 10°C to form a melt The melt is mixed until homogeneous Separately, the macmamide is dissolved m the polar solvent (I e, the water) The niacmamide solution is then mixed with lecithm, cholesterol and dicetyl phosphate to form association strucmres The niacmamide/association structure mixture is then added to the castor oil containing mixture and mixed until uniform The mixture is deaerated by vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold The mixture is cooled to ambient temperamre and incorporated mto the appropriate package

The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisturization and improved penetration of the niacinamide

Example Xl-Sohd Compact Emulsion

Ingredient %W/W Part A

Cyclomethicone 245 1400

Cyclo/ dimethicone copolyol (DC5225C)¹ 1500

Isononyl Isononanoate 300

Abil Quat 3272 100

Part B

Laureth 7 (Rhodasurf L-790)² 050

Propylparaben 025

Part C

MT-600 507

Tronox 406

Glycerin 453

Black iron oxide slurry 010

Yellow Iron Oxide slurry 187

Red Iron Oxide slurry 033

Zinc Oxide 500

Niacinamide 500

Lecithin 100

Methylparaben 012

Deionized water 2733

Part D

Dimethicone treated Talc 500

Polytrap 134

Ethylene Acrylic Acid Copolymer (EA-209)³ 200

Ozokerite wax 3 50 ¹ Available from Dow Corning " Available from Rhone Poulenc ³ Available from Rhone Poulenc

In a suitable vessel, the ingredients of Part C aie combined and milled using a Sih erson L4R at high speed (preferably about 9000-10000 φm) with 1" disintegrating screen for at least 'A hour or until the mixture is uniform In a separate vessel, the ingredients of Part A are combined and mix using a Silverson L4R at about 3000φm with 2" emulsor screen. The ingredients of Part B are combined separately and, before the propylparaben is completely dissolved, Part B is added to Part A using a Silverson L4R at about 3000-4000 m with 2" emulsor screen. Part C is slowly added the Parts A and B with mixing using a Silverson L4R at about 6000φm with 2" emulsor screen. Mixing is continued until mixmre is uniform. Part D is added maintaining adequate turnover (i.e., using a blending speed of about 6000-8000 φm) and then heated to a temperamre of about 80°C. The oxokerite wax is added to the heated mixmre with mixing until mixture is uniform. The mixmre is deaerated by vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold. The mixture is cooled to ambient temperamre and incoφorated into the appropriate package.

The solid compact emulsion is applied to the skin to reduce fine lines and texture of skin as well as reduce oily shine.

Example XII-Long Lasting Cosmetic Emulsion . (Association Strucmre Example)

A. An admixture (Part A) is prepared by combining in a suitable vessel the following ingredients:

INGREDIENT WT. %.

MQ Resin¹ 43.7

PM99A² 56.3

¹ Trimethylsiloxysilicate available from GE.

² Isododecane available from Presperse.

The admixture is mixed using conventional mixing techniques until the MQ Resin is dissolved. Processing:

B. An admixture (Part B) is prepared by combining in a suitable vessel the following ingredients:

INGREDIENT WT. %.

SE30 Silicone Gum¹ 50.0

PM99A 50.0

' Available from GE. The admixture is mixed using conventional mixing techniques until the SE30 Silicone Gum is dissolved.

C. A cosmetic emulsion composition containing Part A and Part B is prepared by combining the following ingredients:

INGREDIENTS WT. %

Part A 36.89

Part B 19.00

Pigments 10.00

PM99A 1.41 Propylparaben 0 20

Bentone ISD 15 00

Water 10 00

Niacinamide 5 00

Lecithin' 2 00

Lapomte XLS 0 5

' Available under the tradename Centrolex F by Central Soya In a suitable vessel, the admixture of Part A along with the pigments, propylparaben and PM99A are combined and mixed using a Ultra Tunax T25 homogemzer at about 8,000 φms for about 10 mmutes or until the cosmetic mixture is uniform (taking care not to ignite the PM99A) The Bentone ISD added to the cosmetic mixmre with mixing at about 8, 000 φms until the mixmre is uniform The water, niacinamide and lecithin are mixed together in a separate vessel to form association strucmres and then added to the cosmetic mixmre with stimng The Lapomte XLS is added to the mixmre and mixing using a Ross homogemzer at about 3,500φms until uniform The admixture of Part B is added to the cosmetic mixmre and mixed initially at high shear, preferably 1600 φms , to facilitate dispersion using an IKA mixer. Once sufficient dispersion is achieved, the mixer speed is reduced, preferably to about 1,000 φms., and the cosmetic mixture is allowed to mix until uniform The cosmetic mixmre is then poured into a suitable container and tightly capped for storage, preferably at room temperature

The cosmetic emulsion composition is applied to impart color to the skin, improve skm texture and provide improved skm penetration of the niacinamide..

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS

1 A topical cosmetic composition, useful for improvmg skm penetration of vitarmn B₃ compounds, characterized in that the composition comprises a) from 0 01% to 50%>, by weight of the composition, of a vitamin B₃ compound, b) from 1% to 90%, preferably from 1%> to 80%o, by weight of the composition, of an emollient component comprising from 0 1%> to 100%, preferably from 1% to 90%, by weight of the emollient component, of an oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, c) from 0 1%) to 80%, by weight of the composition, of a stabilizing system, which stabilizing system comprises,

I) from 0 1% to 90%, by weight of the stabilizing system, of a solidifying agent, and n) from 0 01%) to 30%o, by weight of the stabilizing system, of a surfactant, wherein the surfactant has a Krafft point at or below 20 C and forms association strucmres, and, d) from 0 01% to 90%, by weight of the composition, of a polar solvent

2 A cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the vitarmn B3 compound is selected from niacmamide, derivatives of niacmamide, non-vasodilatmg esters of nicotinic acid, and combinations thereof, preferably niacmamide, tocopherol nicotinate, and combinations thereof, more preferably niacinamide

3 A cosmetic composition according to Claims 1 or 2, wherem the association strucmre is selected from the group consisting of cylindrical reverse micelles, lyotropic liquid crystals and mixtures thereof, preferably is selected from unilamellar vesicles, multilamellar vesicles, cylindrical reverse micelles, hexagonal liquid crystals, cubic liquid crystals, lamellar liquid crystals and mixtures thereof, more preferably is selected from the group consisting of lamellar liquid crystals, reverse hexagonal liquid crystals and mixtures thereof

4 A cosmetic composition according to Claim 3, wherein the reverse micelles aggregate to form networking spherical strucmres, elongated strucmres, cylindrical strucmres, vesicles, filament strucmres, or mixtures thereof

5 A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the association strucmre comprises from 0 1% to 75%, preferably from 5% to 65% of the cosmetic composition 6 A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 5, wherein said polar solvent comprises from 10% to 80%> of the association structuie and wherein said surfactant comprises from 30% to 80% of the association strucmre

7 A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the polar solvent is selected from the group consisting of water, glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alcohol, panthenol and mixtures thereof

8 A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the oil is selected such that at least 99% of the types of oils used have solubility parameters which do not differ by more than from 0 1 to 1 5

9 A cosmetic composition according to any of Claims 1 to 8, which composition is further characterized in that it comprises from 0 1% to 90%, preferably 1% to 35%), by weight of the composition, of a water-insoluble color component

10 A method of improving the skin penetration of vitamin B₃ compounds by applying to the skin a safe and effective amount of the composition m Claim 1