MXPA01008185A - Cosmetic compositions containing vitamin b3 - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed are cosmetic compositions, including lipsticks, comprising from 0.01%to about 50%, by weight, of cylindrical crystalline vitamin B3 particles having a particle size distribution such that at least about 70%of the crystalline particles have a height to width ratio greater than 1;from about 1%to about 90%, by weight, of an emollient component;from about 1%to about 90%, by weight, of a solidifying agent;and from about 1%to about 90%, on an anhydrous basis, of a color. The compositions provide improved skin feel of crystalline vitamin B3 compounds when applied to skin.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING VITAMIN B3 FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to topical cosmetic compositions containing crystalline cylindrical vitamin B3 compounds.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Niacin, also known as vitamin B3, is the common name for nicotinic acid. The physiologically active form of niacin is niacinamide, also a member of the family of vitamin B3 compounds. Niacin and niacinamide (nicotinic acid amide) function in the body as components of two coenzymes: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP). Recently, these vitamin B3 compounds were used exclusively to treat niacin and pellagra deficiency. However, nowadays, vitamin B3 compounds have also found use in the area of active skin care. British Patent 1 370,236 discloses skin lightening compositions containing 0.5% to 10% niacin. In the same way, the patent of E.U.A. 4,096,240 describes the use of 0.1% to 10% niacinamide to lighten the skin. It has also been found that vitamin B3 compounds are useful for regulating the texture of human skin. See PCT application WO 97/39733, for Oblong et al. However, when applied to the skin in crystalline (i.e., powder) form, the vitamin B3 compounds tend to give a rough feeling to the skin. In the past, crystalline vitamin B3 compounds were solubilized in a polar solvent before application to the skin, destroying the crystalline structure and thus alleviating the rough sensation of the crystals. However, solubilization reduced the efficacy of the vitamin B3 compound at the time of contact with the skin. Thus, there is a need for cosmetic compositions comprising the non-solubilized crystalline vitamin B3 compound (s) which provides an improved skin feel that the consumer can sense. The present inventors have discovered that cosmetic formulations incorporating crystalline vitamin B3 compounds of a specific crystalline structure and an emollient improve the sensation perceived by the consumer of the vitamin B3 compound in the skin. The inventors of the present invention have further discovered that these compositions are especially useful for providing the benefits of vitamin B3 to the lips with improved skin feel when used in lipstick compositions including a solidifying agent. It is, therefore, an aspect of the present invention to provide cosmetic compositions, preferably anhydrous cosmetic compositions, which comprise selecting crystalline structured vitamin B3 compounds that improve the appearance and feel of the skin while alleviating the harsh feeling of the crystalline vitamin B3 compound. . Another aspect of the present invention is to provide anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprising vitamin B3 compounds of selected crystal structure that improve the feel of the vitamin B3 compound in the skin. These and other aspects will be readily apparent from the following detailed description.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions providing improved skin feel, containing from about 0.01% to about 50%, by weight, of the crystalline cylindrical vitamin B3 compound particles having a particle size distribution of so that at least about 70% of the crystalline particles have a height to width ratio greater than 1; from about 1% to about 90%, by weight, of an emollient; from about 1% to about 90%, by weight of a solidifying agent; and from about 1% to about 90%, on an anhydrous basis, of one color. Preferably the compositions are anhydrous. The compositions of the present invention are useful for improving the skin feel that is perceived by the consumer of crystalline cylindrical vitamin B3 compounds when applied to the skin. All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All weights, while belonging to the aforementioned ingredients, are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise specified.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION As used herein, the term "cosmetics" includes makeup, make-up base, and skin care products. The term "makeup" refers to the products that give color to the face, including base for makeup, dark and tanned, that is, mascara, eyeliners, eyebrow color, eye shadows, blushes, lip colors, etc. Skin care products are those that are used to treat or care for, or in some way moisturize, improve, or cleanse the skin. Products covered by the phrase "skin care products" include, but are not limited to, adhesives, bandages, toothpaste, anhydrous occlusive humectants, laundry detergents, fabric softening towels, patches which provide occlusive drugs, antiperspirant, deodorants, nail enamels, powders, fabrics, cloths, solid emulsion compact articles, anhydrous hair conditioners, and the like. The term "foundation for makeup" refers to liquids, cream, foam, powder, or similar products created or reintroduced by cosmetic companies to match the overall color of the skin. The base for makeup is made to work better on moisturized and / or oily skin. As used herein, the term "comprises" means that the composition may contain other ingredients that are compatible with the composition and that preferably do not substantially disrupt the compositions of the present invention. The term includes the terms "consists of" and "consists essentially of".

ESSENTIAL COMPONENTS Vitamin B Compound The compositions of the present invention comprise a safe and effective amount of a natural or synthetic cylindrical crystalline vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from above 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 30%, even more preferably from 0.5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%. % of the vitamin B3 compound.

As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula: wherein R is -CONH2 (for example, niacinamide), -COOH (for example, nicotinic acid) or -CH2OH (for example, nicotinyl alcohol), derivatives thereof and salts of any of the above. Examples of derivatives of these vitamin B3 compounds as used herein include vitamin B3 derivatives known in the art, such as nicotinic acid ethers, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinic amino acids, acid nicotinyl alcohol esters carboxylic acids, and also nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide are included. Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic acid esters of C 1 -C 22, preferably C 1 -C 16, more preferably C 1 -C 2 alcohols. The alcohols are suitably straight chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-blushing. As used herein "non-blushing" means that the ester does not commonly produce a visible flow response after application to the skin of the target compositions (the majority of the general population does not experience a visible flow response, although said compounds can cause the swimming vasodium not visible to the exposed eye). Alternatively, a nicotinic acid material that is vasodilator in high doses can be used in a lower dose to reduce the vasodilator effect. Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate. Other derivatives of the vitamin B3 compound are the niacinamide derivatives that result from the substitution of one or more of the hydrogens of the amide group. Non-limiting examples of niacinamide derivatives useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., C? -C ? s). Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinuric acid having the following chemical structures: nicotinuric acid: Examples of nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid, and the like. Other non-limiting examples of the vitamin B3 compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl-nicotinamide, n, n-diethylnicotinamide, n- (hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide, quinolinic acid, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldheido, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine. Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, for example, the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and the Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). One or more vitamin B3 compounds can be used herein. Preferred compounds of vitamin B3 are nicotinic acid, niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide. Niacinamide is the most preferred. The salts of the vitamin B3 compound are also useful herein. Non-limiting examples of salts of the vitamin B3 compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (eg, chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and carboxylic acid salts organic (including mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acid salts of C1-C18, for example, acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, preferably salts of monocarboxylic acid such as acetate). These and other salts of the vitamin B3 compound can be easily prepared by the person skilled in the art, for example, as described by W. Wenner, "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-lsoascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide" , J. Organic Chemistry, Vol. 14, 22-26 (1949), which is incorporated herein by reference. Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide. When used, the salts, derivatives, and derivatives of niacinamide salts are preferably those which have substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the skin condition regulation methods described herein. In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B3 compound is chemically free substantially (for example unbound and / or unimpeded), or after delivery to the skin chemically becomes substantially free ("chemically free"). "hereinafter referred to alternatively as" without complex "). More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is essentially without complex. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B3 compound in a salt or other form with complex, said complex preferably is substantially reversible, more preferably essentially reversible, in the delivery of the composition to the skin. For example, said complex must be substantially reversible at a pH of about 5.0 to about 6.0. Said reversibility can be easily determined by the person skilled in the art.

More preferably, the vitamin B3 compound is substantially free of complex in the composition prior to delivery to the skin. Examples of approaches to minimize or avoid the formation of undesirable complexes include the omission of materials whose form is substantially irreversible or other complexes with the vitamin B3 compound, pH adjustment, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, and formulations in where the vitamin B3 compound and materials whose complex therein is in different phases. Such approaches are within the skill level of the person skilled in the art. In this way, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably free of salts in substantial form of a vitamin B3 compound. Preferably the vitamin B3 compound contains less than about 50% of said salt, and more preferably essentially free of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound in the compositions herein has a pH of about 4 to about 7 which typically contains less than about 50% of the salt form. The vitamin B3 compound can be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by adequate physical and / or chemical isolation from natural sources (e.g., plants). The vitamin B3 compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.

The vitamin B3 compounds of the present invention comprise cylindrical crystalline particles having a particle size distribution such that at least about 70% of the crystalline particles have a height to width ratio greater than 1 or about 1, preferably at least about 70% of the crystalline particles have a height-to-width ratio greater than 1.5 or about 1.5, more preferably at least about 50% of the crystalline particles have a height-to-width ratio greater than 2 or about 2. Preferably, the particles of Vitamin B3 crystals have a mean main particle size length of about 0.01 μm (microns) to about 200 μm, preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 100 μm, more preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 50 μm, more preferably from about 0.01 μm to about 20 m. Preferably, the vitamin B3 compounds have a particle size distribution such that at least about 60% of the vitamin B3 particles are less than about 30 μm, more preferably at least about 75% of the vitamin B particles are smaller that about 30 μm, more preferably at least about 85% of the vitamin B3 particles are less than about 30 μm, still more preferably at least about 90% of the vitamin B3 particles are less than about 30 μm in length. Enhanced vitamin B3 compound crystals can be prepared by dissolving the crude or pure vitamin B3 compound in a suitable solvent and recrystallizing the compound using any of a variety of conventional crystallization techniques, however the preparation is not limited to this method. Such crystallization techniques include, but are not limited to, evaporation from a single solvent, evaporation from a mixture of binary solvents (volatile solvent and non-volatile solvent), intermittent crystallization, liquid-liquid diffusion, phase diffusion. settled droplet vapor, vapor phase diffusion of drop pending, temperature change, solidification and sublimation by gel crystallization. These crystallization techniques are described in greater detail in Van der Sluis, P., Hezemans, A.M.F., and Kroon, J, Crystallization of Low-Molecular-Weight Organic Compounds for X-ray Crystallization, J. Appl. Cryst. (1989) .22, 340-344 and Alexander McPherson, Preparation and Analysis of Protein Crystals, Robert E. Krieger Publishing Co. (1989), both are incorporated herein in their entirety.

Emollient Compound The compositions of the present invention further comprise an emollient suitable for suspending or otherwise dispersing the crystalline vitamin B3 compound therein. Any emollient that is known or otherwise suitable for use in cosmetic applications, and that is also compatible with the cylindrical crystalline vitamin B3 compound in the composition, can be used in the composition of the present invention. Preferred emollients for use in the composition of the present invention are those materials that are mentioned in personal care techniques such as fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, and combinations thereof, and which they help in the application and adhesion, produce shine and / or provide occlusive wetting. The emollient component comprises from about 1% to about 90%, preferably from about 10% to about 80%, more preferably from about 20% to about 70%, and more preferably from about 40%, to about 60% OF THE COSMETIC COMPOSITION Emollients suitable for use in the present invention include derivatives of isostearic acid, isopropyl palmitate, lanolin oil, diisopropyl dimerate, maleate soybean oil, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl lactate, cetyl ricinoleate, tocopheryl acetate, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, phenyltrimethicone, glyceryl oleate, tocopheryl linoleate, wheat germ glycerides, arachidyl propionate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, propylene glycol ricinoleate, isopropyl lanolate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, hydrogenated cocoglycerides, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, triisocetyl citrate, cetyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, oleyl alcohol, panthenol, lanolin alcohol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, sucrose esters of fatty acids, octyl hydroxystearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable emollients are described in Cosmetic Bench Reference, pp. 1.19-1.22 (1996), whose descriptions are incorporated herein by reference. For use herein, non-polar emollients are particularly preferred. "Non-polar emollients", as used herein, means any emollient emulsifier that does not possess permanent electric moments and wherein the solubility (at 30 ° C) of the vitamin B3 compound is in the polar emollient and is less than about 1.5%, preferably less than about 1.0%, more preferably less than about 0.5%. Suitable non-polar emollients include, but are not limited to, esters and straight chain or branched hydrocarbons. Non-limiting examples of such emollients are isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl dimerate, lanolin oil, octyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, paraffins, isoparaffins, acetylated lanolin, sucrose fatty acid esters, myristate of isopropyl, isopropyl stearate, mineral oil, silicone oils, dimethicone, allantoin, isohexadecane, isododecane, petrolatum and mixtures thereof. As used herein, the solubility of the vitamin B3 compound in non-polar emollients is determined by means of the methodology described below. Suitable oil emollients for use in the compositions of the present invention include esters, triglycerides, hydrocarbons and silicones. These can be a single material or a mixture of one or more materials. They will usually comprise from about 1% to about 100%, preferably from about 5% to about 90%, and more preferably from about 70% to about 90% of the emollient component. The oils act as emollients and may also provide viscosity, tackiness, and entrainment properties to cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks. Examples of suitable oils include caprylic triglycerides, capric triglyceride, isostearic triglyceride; adipic triglyceride; Propylene glycol myristyl acetate; lanolin; lanolin oil; polybutene, sopropyl palmitate; isopropyl myristate; isopropyl isostearate; Diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; tocopheryl acetate; tocopheryl linoleate; hexadecyl stearate; ethyl lactate; cetyl oleate; cetyl ricinoleate; oleyl alcohol; hexadecyl alcohol; octyl hydroxystearate; octyl dodecanol; wheat germ oil; hydrogenated vegetable oils; Castor oil; • petrolatum; modified lanolins; branched chain hydrocarbons; alcohols and esters; corn oil; cottonseed oil; olive oil; palm kernel oil; rapeseed oil; safflower oil; jojoba oil; ass grass oil; mineral oil of avocado oil; yellow or white butter, octylpalmitate, soybean oil with maleate; glycerol trioctanoate, diisopropyl dimerate, and volatile and non-volatile silicone oils including phenyl trimethicone. Preferred oils for use herein are acetyglycerides, octanoates and decanoates of alcohols and polyalcohols, such as glycol and glycerol, the ricinoleates of alcohols and polyalcohols such as cetyl ricinoleate, PG-3 distearate, polyglycerol ethers, polyglycerol esters, triglycerides caprylics, capric triglycerides, isostearic triglyceride, adipic triglyceride, phenyl timethicone, lanolin oil, polybutene, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl ricinoleate, octyl dodecanol, oleyl alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable oils, castor oil, modified lanolins, octyl palmitate, lanolin oil, maleate soybean oil, cetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diisopropyl dimerate, synthetic lanolin derivatives and branched chain alcohols, sucrose esters of fatty acids, octyl hydroxystearate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oils used are selected so that the majority (at least about 75%, preferably at least about 80%, and more preferably at least 99%) of the types of oils used have solubility parameters that do not differ by more than about 1 to about 0.1, preferably about 0.8 to about 0.1.

OPTIONAL COMPONENTS Solidifying Agents The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may further comprise a solidifying agent to solidify or entrap any liquid base material in the cosmetic compositions. As used herein, the term "solidify" refers to the physical and / or chemical alteration of the liquid base material to form a solid or semi-solid at ambient conditions, i.e., to form a final composition having a physical structure stable and deposit on the skin during normal conditions of use. As will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, the selection of the particular solidification agent to be used in cosmetic compositions will depend on the particular type of composition desired, ie, gel or wax-based, the desired rheology, the base material used liquid and other materials to be used in the composition. The solidifying agent is preferably present at a concentration of from about 1% to about 90%, more preferably from about 1% to about 50%, even more preferably from about 5% to about 40%, more preferably from about 3% to approximately 20%.

The wax-based cosmetic stick forms of the invention preferably contain from about 5% to about 50% (by weight) of the solidification agent with wax. The term "wax solidification agent", as used herein, refers to a solidification material having similar characteristics to wax. Said materials with wax can also serve as emollients. Among the wax materials useful herein are high melting waxes, ie, having a melting point of about 65 ° C to about 125 ° C, such as beeswax, spermaceti, carnauba, laurel berry, candelilla, montan, ozokerite, ceresin, paraffin, synthetic waxes such as waxes of Físher-Tropsch, microcrystalline wax and mixtures thereof. Ceresin, ozokerite, white beeswax, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof, are among the preferred high-melting waxes useful herein. The compositions having waxes, among those which are useful herein, are described in the U.S. patent. 4,049,792, Elsnau, filed September 20, 1977, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety). Low-melting waxes, having a melting point of about 37 ° C to about 75 ° C, are preferred for use in the wax-based stick embodiments of the invention. In the form of wax sticks containing volatile silicone oils as liquid base material, they preferably contain from about 10% to about 35%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20% (by weight), of a wax low melting point. Such materials include fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, which have fatty chains of from about 8 to about 10 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Preferred wax-like materials include cetyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, behenamide, sucrose esters of bait fatty acids, polyethylene glycol mono and digraso acid esters, and mixtures thereof. Stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred. The fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and other wax-like materials useful in this invention are described in the following references, which are all incorporated herein by reference: U.S. Pat. 4,151, 272, Geary, et al., Filed April 24, 1979; patent of E.U.A. 4,229, 432, Geria, filed October 21, 1980; and patent of E.U.A. 4,280, 994, Turney, filed July 28, 1981; "The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes", A.H. Warth, second edition, reprinted in 1960, Reinhold Publishing Corporation, pp. 391-393 and 421; "The Petroleum Chemicals Industry", R.F. Goldstein and A. L. Waddeam, third edition (1967), E & F.N. Span Ltd., pp 33-40; "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics", M.G. DeNavarre, second edition (1970), Van Nostrand & Company, pp 354-376; and in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology :, Vol. 24, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition (1979) pp 466-481. Preferred wax-like materials useful as solidifying agents in the wax bars of the present are described in US Pat. US Patent 4,126,679, Davy, et al., issued November 21, 1978, which is incorporated herein in its entirety Preferred mixtures of wax-like materials comprise fatty alcohols containing carbon chains around 14 to about 18 carbon atoms, and alcohols having chain lengths of 20 carbons or more, wherein the final mixture contains from about 1% to about 3% (by weight) of the longer chain fatty alcohols. compositions containing these fatty alcohol mixtures are described in European Patent Specification No. 117,070, published August 29, 1984 (incorporated by reference herein). polymers such as those described in European application No. 522624, to Dunphy et al., incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. The gel bar embodiments of this invention preferably contain from about 3% to about 30%, preferably from about 3% to about 10% (by weight) of a solidifying agent. The particular amount of the solidifying agent to be used will depend on the particular solidifying agent and the liquid base material used, and the desired physical characteristics of the gel stick. The solidifying agents useful in the gel bar embodiment of this invention are, in general, surface active compounds that form networks by immobilizing or solidifying the liquid base materials in a gel. Such solidifying agents include: soaps, such as sodium and potassium salts of higher fatty acids, ie, acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; amides of higher fatty acids; higher fatty acid amides of alkylaminos; acetals of dibenzaldehyde-monosorbitol; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of acetates, propionates and lactates; waxes, such as candelillas and caranauba; and mixtures thereof. Among these preferred solidifying agents for use in the gel stick embodiments of this invention are sodium stearate, sodium palmitate, aluminum stearate, aluminum-magnesium hydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof. Gel stick compositions containing solidifying agents among those useful herein are described in the following patent documents, all incorporated herein by reference in their entirety: US Patent 2,900,306, Slater, issued August 18, 1959; U.A. Patent 3,255,082, Barton, issued June 7, 1966; U.A. Patent 4,137,306, Rubino et al., issued January 30, 1979; U.A. Patent 4,154,816, Roehl, et al., issued May 15, 1979; U.S. Patent No. 4,226,899, Yuhas, issued October 7, 1980; U.A. Patent 4,346,079, Roehl, issued August 24, 1982; U.A. Patent 4,383,988, Teng, et al., issued May 17, 1983; European Patent Specification No. 107,330, Luebbe, et al., published May 2, 1984; and U.S. Patent Application Serial No. 630,790, DiPietro, filed July 13, 1984. Preferred solidifying agents useful in the gel bar embodiments of the present invention are described in European Patent Specification No. 24, 365 Sampson et al., Published March 4, 1981, incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Conventional thickeners are also useful herein as solidifying agents. Examples of suitable thickeners include, but are not limited to, natural polymeric materials such as locust bean gum, sodium alginate, sodium caffeinate, egg albumin, gelatin agar, carrageenan gum sodium alginate, xanthan gum, quince seed extract, tragacanth gum, starch, chemically modified starches and the like, semi-synthetic polymeric materials, such as cellulose ethers (for example hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, soluble starch, cationic celluloses, cationic guands and the like and synthetic polymeric materials, such as carboxyvinyl polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol of polyacrylic acid polymers, polymethacrylic acid polymers, polyvinyl acetate polymers, polyvinyl chloride polymers, polyvinylidene chloride polymers and the like. Inorganic thickeners such as aluminum silicates such as, for example, bentonites, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate can also be used. Natural polymers or biopolymers and their use, is described further in European application No. 522624, to Dunphy et al. Additional examples of natural polymers or biopolymers can be found in Cosmetic Bench Reference, pp. 1.40-1.42, which is incorporated herein by reference. Also useful are hydrophilic gelling agents such as copolymers of acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate and the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by B.F. Goodrich Company with the commercial name of Carbopol Registered TM resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble polyether-polyalkenyl crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with 0.75% to 2.00% of an entanglement agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 groups allyl for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are carbomers sold under the tradename "Carbopol Ultrez 10, Carbopol ETD2020, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA designation: Acrylates / 10-30 Alkil Acrylate Crosspolymer). of the above polymers are also useful herein Other gelling agents suitable for use herein include oleogels such as trihydroxystearin Hydrophobically modified celluloses are also useful for use herein These celluloses are described in detail in US Pat. 4,228,277 and 5,101, 646, both incorporated herein by reference in their entirety Additional examples of suitable gelling agents or gelling agents can be found in Cosmetic Bench Reference, page 1.27, which is incorporated herein by reference. the theory, it is believed that the solidifying agent in combination with the emollient, acts omo as an occlusive on the skin to form films of double layers or continuous or discontinuous multiple layers on the skin. The term "occlusive", as used herein, refers to avoiding or obstructing something, in this case, preventing the removal of moisture (by means of evaporation) and the vitamin B3 compound (by means of the link to the film) from a surface of the skin.

Color Certain embodiments of the present invention, preferably lipstick or lip paints, may further comprise from about 1% to about 90%, preferably about 1% to about 35%, more preferably from about 1% to about 20% and more preferably from about 5% to about 15% color, on a weight basis of anhydrous pigment. These are usually aluminum, barium or calcium salts or lacquers. Preferably, the dyes are present in about 0.1% to about 4% or nacre of about 0% to about 20%.

The pigments are typically dispersed in emollients to obtain a good dispersion of the pigments, when incorporated into the compositions for the lips, thus providing a uniform distribution of color. The colors / pigments suitable for use herein are all suitable inorganic and organic colors / pigments for use in lipstick compositions. Lacquers are also a pigment that is extended or reduced with a solid diluent or an organic pigment that is prepared by the precipitation of a water-soluble dye or an absorption surface, which is generally an aluminum hydrate. There is no certainty in some cases if the soluble dye is precipitated on the surface of the aluminum hydrate to produce a dyed inorganic pigment or is precipitated merely in the presence of the substrate. A lacquer is also formed from a precipitation of an insoluble salt from an acid dye or a basic dye. The calcium and barium lakes can also be used here. Lacquers suitable for use in the present invention include red aluminum lacquer 3, red aluminum lacquer 21, red aluminum lacquer 27, red aluminum lacquer 28, red aluminum lacquer 33, yellow aluminum lacquer 5, yellow aluminum lacquer 6, yellow aluminum lacquer 10, aluminum lacquer orange 5 and blue aluminum lacquer 1, red barium lacquer 6, red calcium lacquer 7.

Other colors and pigments can also be included in lipsticks such as dyes and nacres, titanium dioxides, dyes Red 6, Red 21, Brown, Berber and Siena color, lime carbonate, talcum, iron oxides and titanate micas. Dispersants can also be used together with colors and pigments of the present invention. Examples of suitable dispersants include, but are not limited to, those described in the patent of US Pat. No. 5,688,493, incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Dermatologically Acceptable Anhydrous Vehicle The composition of the present invention further includes a dermatologically acceptable anhydrous carrier or carrier, together with the emollient component described herein below. Said vehicle must be compatible with the skin, nails, mucous membranes, tissues and hair and includes any conventionally used cosmetic or dermatological vehicle that meets these requirements. Said vehicle must also be compatible with the crystalline vitamin B3 compound, ie the vehicle must not interact with or substantially dissolve the crystalline vitamin B3 compound. The crystalline vitamin B3 compound is preferably dispersed in the emollient component of the composition. The emollient can be part of the vehicle system. Suitable carriers in addition to the emollients described herein include, but are not limited to ointments, lipstick, foundation for makeup, mascara, powder, suspensions, creams, lotions, gels, foams, and the like. Such vehicles facilitate topical application and, in some cases, provide for additional therapeutic effects, for example, by moisturizing the affected areas of the skin. Those skilled in the art can easily select dermatologically acceptable anhydrous vehicles. Preferably, the vehicle is substantially anhydrous. In this context "substantially anhydrous" means that the vehicle provides the composition with less than 20%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably 0% free or unbound water by weight of the composition.

Substantially free of polar solvents The present invention is preferably substantially free of polar solvents. In general, "polar solvents" refer to those solvents which contain hydroxyl and / or carbonyl groups and which also have high dielectric constants and strong polarity. In general, the phrase "substantially free" means the level of said polar solvents or mixtures of polar solvents that is preferably less than about 0.5%, more preferably 0.1% and more preferably 0%. Without being limited by theory, said polar solvents tend to dissolve or otherwise interact with the crystal structure of the vitamin B3 compounds. Examples of said polar include, but are not limited to, water; alcohols, such as ethanol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexanol, and benzyl alcohol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, maltitol, sorbitol, and glycerin; pentanol dissolved in glycerin; flavor oils, and mixtures thereof.

Other additives Other optional ingredients that may be present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include flavor oils, fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamin A and E, vitamin A esters (eg, acetate, propionate or palmitate) or vitamin E (for example, acetate or sorbate), sunscreens such as octyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, germicides such as triclosan, anti-inflammatory agents such as hydrocortisone, lipid materials such as ceramides and liposomes and other assets for skin care. The cosmetic compositions may comprise ingredients conventionally employed in cosmetic compositions, such as mascara, make-up base or lip care products. This includes active ingredients for skin care, such as pharmaceutically active ingredients. The active ingredients for skin care both in water-soluble and water-insoluble form can be added to the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. These include but are not limited to vitamin C and its derivatives (e.g., ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl phosphate and its salts such as magnesium or sodium), vitamin D, panthenol, retinoic acid, zinc oxide, beta-glycerietic acid; chamomile oil; ginko biloba extract; pyroglutamic acid, salts or esters; sodium hyaluronate; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid; sulfur; salicylic acid; carboxymethylcysteine, and mixtures thereof. These additives, both fat soluble and water soluble, will be present in amounts of less than about 10% by weight, generally in the range of about 0.01% to about 5%, preferably about 0.01% about 3%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 1% by weight. Organic binders such as stearic acid, paraffin, butyl acetate, ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer, methacrylic acid butyl ester, dibutyl phthalate, polyester and mixtures thereof may be used in the present invention. Flavor oils such as peppermint oil, orange oil, citrus fruit oil, wintergreen oil, can be used together with alcohol or glycerin. Flavor oils are generally mixed in a solvent such as ethanol to dilute the flavor. The flavor oils useful herein may be derived from natural sources or may be prepared synthetically. Generally, flavor oils are mixtures of ketone, alcohols, fatty acids, esters and terpenes. The term "flavor oil" is generally recognized in the art as a liquid that is derived from botanical sources, i.e. leaves, bark, or peel of fruits or vegetables, and which are generally insoluble in water. The flavor oil used can vary from 0% to about 5%, preferably from about O.01% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 1%. Additional humectants may also be included in the compositions of the present invention. Preferred humectants include pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sodium lactate or lactic acid, urea, guanidine, glyceric acid and its salts (eg, calcium salt), petrolatum, collagen, ether, hydroxypropyl glyceryl, α-hydroxy acids ( for example, ethylglycolic acid, leucic acid, mandelic acid, glycolic acid), glucosamines, and elastin fibers, D-panthenol, allantoin and hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate. Examples of suitable humectants can be found in Cosmetic Bench Reference, p. 1.30-1.32 (1996), which is incorporated herein by reference. Surfactants can be added to the compositions of the present invention. Suitable surfactants are those capable of forming association structures in contact with a polar solvent. Examples of said surfactants can be found in the patent of E.U.A. for 5,843, 407 to El-Nokali, which is incorporated herein by reference. When the surfactants are used, they are preferably present at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 30%, more preferably 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight of the composition.

Also useful herein are emulsifiers commonly known as binding agents. When used, the total concentration of the emulsifier can be from about 0% to about 20% of the formulation, preferably from about 0% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15% and more preferably from about 1% to about 10%. Examples of suitable emulsifiers can be found in the patent of E.U.A. 5,085,856 to Dunphy et al .; Japanese Patent Publication Sho 61-83110; European patent application EP 522624 to Dunphy et al .; patent of E.U.A. 5,688,831 to El-Nokali et al. Examples of other suitable emulsifiers can be found in Cosmetic Bench Reference, pp. 1.22, 1.24-1.26 (1996), all incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Mixtures of the above surfactants and emulsifiers can also be used. A preferred optional component is ethylcellulose (Ethocel). Ethylcellulose is generally preferred for use at levels of about 5% and more preferably 1%. Another preferred optional component is silica. Silica is generally preferred for use at levels of about 1% and about 5%.

The hypoallergenic compositions can be made from the liquid crystal, wax, oils and colors of the present. These compositions should not contain fragrances, flavor oils, lanolin, sunscreens, particularly PABA or other potential sensitizers or sensitizers and irritants. The compositions of the present invention can also be made in long-lasting or non-transferable cosmetic compositions. Detailed discussions of such lipsticks are found in Japanese Patent Publication Hei No. 6-199630 and European Patent Application 748622, both incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. Additional optional materials that can be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention can be found in the PCT application WO 97/39733, for Oblong et al.

Methods of use The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are ideally suited for use in the treatment of skin and lips, especially in the form of a lipstick or a lip balm to apply a permanent or semi-permanent color to the lips, ideally with a finish bright or glossy. The cosmetic compositions can also be used in the treatment of the skin and / or lips with a skin care agent that protects against exposure to adverse weather, including wind and rain, dry and / or hot environments, pollutants environmental (for example, ozone, smoke and the like), or exposure to excessive doses of sunlight. The compositions are also useful for providing sun protection, moisturizing and / or conditioning for hair and skin, improved skin feel, regular skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, reducing oily shine in hair or skin, lightning skin and reduce odor in skin or hair. The cosmetic compositions, accordingly, can be applied to the skin and / or lips in the traditional manner using a suitable carrier or applicator to provide a decorative and / or protective film thereto.

Methods for determining solubility of vitamin B ^ compounds in emollients. The solubility of the vitamin B3 compound in the different non-polar emollients of the present invention can be determined as follows: l. Preparation of samples for analysis: 1) the emollient is placed in a pre-weighed bottle and then saturated with a vitamin B3 compound; 2) the bottle is shaken and allowed to settle in a bath at 30 ° C for 1 hour. A small stirring bar is used to stir the contents of the jar. If precipitation does not occur in the bottle, then more niacinamide is added. This is repeated until precipitation occurs. The sample is left in the bath for an additional 48 hours to ensure saturation; 3) the saturated emollient is extracted in a syringe; 4) a 0.45 micron filter (Gelman Acrodisc) is fitted at the end of the syringe and the emollient is filtered in a separate pre-weighed jar for analysis; 5) The emollient is analyzed using CLAR to determine the amount of niacinamide in it.

II. Analysis: Approximately, 0.25 g of the sample (sample weight) is weighed into a 15 mL plastic screw cap centrifuge tube. The sample is mixed with approximately 3 mL of 50/50 v / v methanol / chloroform and homogenized by swirl mixture. Then, approximately 7 mL of water is added to extract the vitamin B3 compound from the methanol / chloroform phase. Each sample is mixed by stirring 50 times in a forward and backward movement to facilitate transfer of the niacinamide from methanol / chloroform to the aqueous phase. This mixture creates an emulsion at the interface of the two phases. The emulsion can be dissipated by letting the sample sit for several hours or by brief centrifugation (15 seconds) at high speed. Once the two phases have completely separated, a pipette is used to cally transfer the aqueous phase into a separate, previously weighed bottle.

The weight of the aqueous phase (weight of aqueous phase) is noted. An aliquot of the aqueous phase is transferred to an analysis container and analyzed for niacinamide by HPLC (Waters 2690 Separation Module coupled with a Waters 996 PDA detector, both supplied by Waters Corporations). lll. Calculations: The percentage of vitamin B3 compound is determined by taking the concentration of vitamin B3 compound measured through CLAR and multiplying by the dilution factor. The dilution factor is the weight of the aqueous phase divided by the sample weight.

EXAMPLES The cosmetic formulations illustrated in Examples I-X show specific embodiments of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention, but are not intended to limit the same. Those skilled in the art may attempt other modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. These exemplified embodiments of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention improve the skin penetration of the vitamin B3 compound and at the same time also improve the skin feel of the crystalline vitamin B3 compound.

All the exemplified compositions can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques. Such formulation and mixing techniques are described in detail in Harry's Cosmeticoloqy, p. 119-141 and 314-354 (J.B. Wilkinson and R.J. Moore 7th edition 1982), and Cosmetics: Science and Technoloqy, pp. 1-104 and 307-422 (M.S. Balsam and E. Sagarin 2nd edition 1972), both incorporated herein by rence in their entirety. Component amounts are mentioned as percentages by weight and minor materials such as diluents, filler, etc. are excluded. There, the mentioned formulations comprise the mentioned components and any minor material associated with such components.

EXAMPLE Composition of lipstick Quantity Ingredient (percent by weight) Ozokerite wax 5.00 Candelilla wax 3.00 Caranauba wax 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 2.00 Cetyl lactate 2.00 Ascorbyl palmitate 0.50 Propylparaben 0.10 Vitamin E acetate 0.05 Isopropyl isostearate 13.97 Octyl hydroxystearate 5.20 Paraffin wax 2.50 2N-nicotinic acid oxide (23 %) + castor oil (77%) 21.74 Acetylated lanolin 6.33 Mica SVA1 10.00 Pigment suspension (30% pigment / 70% castor oil 25.61) 1 Mica treated with lauroyl lysine, Mearlmica SVA, supplied by Mearl 2 In a suitable, pure container chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent (for example, water, alcohol such as ethanol, polyhydric alcohols and the like). The N-oxide of nicotinic acid is subsequently recrystallized by a single method of the solvent. The recrystallized nicotinic acid N-oxide is combined with the castor oil and milled to the appropriate particle size.

Separately, the mixture of the cylindrical crystalline nicotinic acid N-oxide castor oil mixture with the remaining ingredients of the above formulation is added to a vessel equipped with a heat source and the ingredients are heated to a temperature of about 90 ° C to form a fusion. The fusion is mixed until it becomes homogeneous. The mixture is evacuated under vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and incorporated into the proper packaging.

The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisture and improved feeling in the lips.

EXAMPLE II Pencil Composition I Labial Quantity Ingredient (percent by weight) Ozokerite wax 5.00 Candelilla wax 3.00 Caranauba wax 2.00 Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 Cetyl lactate 2.00 Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.50 Propylparaben 0.10 Vitamin E acetate 0.05 Isopropyl isostearate 15.00 Octyl hydroxystearate 10.00 Paraffin wax 2.50 Niacinamide1 2.50 Castor oil 13.41 Acetylated lanolin 6.33 Mica SVA 10.00 Pigment suspension (30% pigment / 70% castor oil 25.61) In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. Subsequently, the niacinamide is crystallized again by means of the binary solvent method.

The recrystallized niacinamide is then milled to the appropriate particle size. Separately, the ground cylindrical crystalline niacinamide, together with the remaining ingredients of the above formulation are added to a vessel equipped with a heat source and the ingredients are heated to a temperature of about 90 ° C to form a melt. The fusion is mixed until it becomes homogeneous. The mixture is evacuated under vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and incorporated into the proper packaging. The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisture and improved feeling in the lips.

EXAMPLE Composition of lipstick Ingredient Quantity (weight percent) Glycerin 0.300 Lecithin 2.00 Niacinamide 5.00 Octayl Palmitate 10.24 Isopropyl Palmitate 4.80 Bentona 38 1.00 Propylene Carbonate 0.33 Cetyl Recinolate 1.00 Diisopropyl Ditearate 29.88 Lanolin Oil 11.60 Ozokerite 6.75 Candelilla 5.25 Be Square 175 2.00 Diisostearate of PG-3 2.00 Acetate of vitamin "E" 0.05 Propiiparaben 0.15 Methylparaben 0.15 Benzoic acid 0.10 Mica cf 7.00 Pigments 9.00 Dyes 0.40 Mica untreated, Mearlmica MMCF, supplied by Mearl.

In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. Subsequently, the niacinamide is recrystallized by means of a single solvent method and milled to the appropriate particle size and cylindrical shape. Next, the glycerin, lecithin and milled niacinamide are mixed in a suitable vessel until a liquid crystal phase is formed.

Separately, the remaining ingredients of the above formulation are added to a vessel equipped with a heat source and heated to a temperature of about 90 ° C to form a melt. The fusion is mixed until it becomes homogeneous. The above liquid crystalline phase mixture is added to the melt and mixed until it becomes homogeneous. The mixture is evacuated under vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and incorporated into the proper packaging.

The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisture and improved feeling in the lips.

EXAMPLE IV Deodorant gel bar Ingredient Quantity (weight percent) Niacinamide 4 Acid-di-n-butylamide N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid1 4 12-Hydroxystearic acid 2 Light mineral oil2 23 Diisopropyl sebacate3 39 Aluminum-zirconium 25 Talc 3 1GP-1 supplied by Ajinomoto, Inc. 2 Benol White Mineral Oil supplied by Witco Chemical Corp. 3Schercemol DIS supplied by Scher Cherfficals Inc.

In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. Subsequently, niacinamide is recrystallized by a single solvent method. Next, the recrystallized niacinamide is milled to the appropriate particle size and cylindrical shape. Separately, the gelling agent, the recrystallized niacinamide and the liquid base material are combined in a vessel equipped with a heat source. The mixture is heated to a temperature between about 80 ° C and about 130 ° C with stirring, until the mixture forms a homogeneous, molten solution. Preferably, the homogeneous, molten solution is allowed to cool to a mixing temperature; typically between about 65 ° C and 110 ° C. Then, the active deodorant and other ingredients are added to the melt, such as fragrances and colors, in the homogeneous solution, melted in the previous vessel with agitation. The mixture is allowed to cool until it begins to thicken and is poured into containers that are allowed to cool to room temperature. (Although not preferred, the deodorant active may alternatively be added together with the gelling agent and the liquid base material in the first step). A deodorant composition, formed according to the above, is applied in the area of the armpit of a human subject, and reduces perspiration in the area that is applied, improves the odor in this area, and improves the feeling of the skin.

EXAMPLE V Solid Deodorant Stick Inqredient Quantity (weight percent) Niacinamide 8.0 Stearyl alcohol 10.0 Hydrogenated castor oil mp 86 ° C 4.00 Aluminum chlorhydroxide 40.0 Isopar "V" 1 37.0 Fragrance 1.0 100.0 1sopar "V" Weight. Mol. Prom. 197 P.E. scale, 255-301 degrees Celsius. In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. The niacinamide is subsequently recrystallized by a binary solvent method. Next, the recrystallized niacinamide is milled to the appropriate particle size and cylindrical shape. In a separate container containing a heat source, the isoparaffin liquids, the water-insoluble liquid emollients, the surface active agent and the water-insoluble waxes are heated to a temperature sufficient to form a solution of these materials. Then, aluminum chlorhydroxide is added with moderate agitation, followed by the recrystallized niacinamide and the remaining ingredients. The solution is mixed until a homogeneous suspension is formed. The suspension is cooled to a temperature above the solidification point and then poured into suitable containers. A deodorant composition, formed according to the above, is applied in the area of the armpit of a human subject and reduces perspiration in the area that is applied, improves the odor in this area, and improves the feeling of the skin.

EXAMPLE VI Solid deodorant stick Inqredient Quantity (weight percent) Nicotinic acid 2.5 Stearic acid 10.0 Hydrogenated castor oil mp 86 ° C 4.0 Zirconium chlorhydroxide 25.0 Talc 10.0 Isopar "M" 1 42.5 Diisopropyl adipate 5.0 Fragrance 1.0 100.0 1lsopar "V" Weight. Mol. Prom. 191 P.E. scale, 207-260 degrees Celsius. In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. The nicotinic acid is subsequently recrystallized by a single solvent method. Next, the recrystallized nicotinic acid is milled to the appropriate particle size and cylindrical shape.

In a separate container containing a heat source, the isoparaffin liquids, the water-insoluble liquid emollients, the surface active agent and the water-insoluble waxes are heated to a temperature sufficient to form a solution of these materials. Then, aluminum chlorhydroxide is added with moderate agitation, followed by recrystallized nicotinic acid and the remaining ingredients. The solution is mixed until a homogeneous suspension is formed. The suspension is cooled to a temperature above the solidification point and then poured into suitable containers. A deodorant composition, formed according to the above, is applied in the area of the armpit of a human subject and reduces perspiration in the area that is applied, improves the odor in this area, and improves the feeling of the skin.

EXAMPLE VII Solid deodorant cream Ingredient Quantity (weight percent) Niacinamide 3.0 Cyclomethicone (D5) 40.5 Dimethicone (350 cs) 4.0 Cab-O-Sil HS-51 4.0 Microtensile FN5102 6.0 Natrosol3 2.0 Iso-eicosano4 13.0 Reach AZ5 26.7 Fragrance 0.8 1 Colloidal silica thickener material, sold by Cabot Corporation. 2 Low density polyethylene powder, sold by U.S. I. Chemicals. 3Hydroxyethylcellulose, sold by Hercules, Inc. 42,2,4,4,6,6,8,8-dimethyl-10-methylundecane, obtained from Permethyl Corporation, Frazier, PA. 5 Complex of zirconium-aluminum-glycine hydroxychloride, active particulate deodorant material, sold by Reheis Chemical Company. In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. The niacinamide is subsequently recrystallized by the binary solvent method. Next, the recrystallized niacinamide is milled to the appropriate particle size and cylindrical shape. The cyclomethicone, dimethicone, iso-eicosane and perfume are added to a stainless steel mixing vessel. Then Cab-O-Sil is added, followed by Microteno and Natrosol and finally, the active deodorant and recrystallized niacinamide. The composition is completely stirred after the addition of each particulate material. Then the composition is milled, using a Black &; Decker (Model 4420, type 4) with a Cowles dispersion blade of 6.35 cm in diameter at approximately 6,000 rpm, for approximately 5 minutes. The penetration force value of the milled composition is about 300 grams at 25 ° C and relative humidity of 50%. A deodorant cream formulation, formed according to the above, is applied to the underarm area of a human subject and reduces perspiration in the area being applied, improves the odor in this area, and improves the skin feel.

EXAMPLE Vlll Waterproof mascara Ingredient Quantity (weight percent Petroleum distillate ((IBP 345) 50,120 Glyceryl resin liquid rosin 10,000 Bentona 38 CG or Type 5,890 Color (black 34-3068 or type) 5,000 rented PVP (type 220) 5,000 Trihydroxystearin (type R) 5,000 Magnesium carbonate 309 5,000 N-oxide of nicotinic acid 5,000 Caolin 2747 2,000 Carnauba wax, NF 2,000 Propylene carbonate 1,940 Polyethylene AC-617a 1,000 Phenoxyethanol 0.250 Color (yellow 34-3170 or type) 1,600 Propylparaben, NF 0.100 Tenor BHA 0.100 Total 100,000 In a suitable, pure container, chemically recrystallized N-oxide of nicotinic acid is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. The N-oxide of nicotinic acid is subsequently recrystallized by a single solvent method. Next, the recrystallized nicotinic acid N-oxide is milled to the appropriate cylindrical particle size and shape. Next, the ground recrystallized nicotinic acid N-oxide and the above ingredients with the exception of the dyes and gelling / fillers, are added in a stainless steel mixing vessel equipped with a heat source. The ingredients are heated to a temperature of about 90 ° C, and mixed using a propeller blade. Once the temperature reaches approximately 90 ° C, the ingredients are mixed using a disperser blade at approximately 3500 rpm. The pigments are then slowly added during mixing with the disperser. In a similar manner, gelling agents / fillers are added with mixture. The mixture continues with the disperser until the mixture is homogeneous. The mixture is then allowed to cool while mixing with the disperser at 3500 rpm. At about 40 ° C, the mixture is discontinued and the mixture is transferred into a suitable storage container. The mascara composition is applied to the eyelashes and / or eyebrows to provide softness, moisture and improved feeling.

EXAMPLE IX Mascara I Inquired Quantity (weight percent Petroleum distillate ((IBP 345) 52,120 Glyceryl esters of rosin and Inequid resin 10,000 Bentona 38 CG or Type 5,890 Magnesium carbonate 309 5,000 Alloyed PVP (type 220) 5,000 Trihydroxystearin (type R) 5,000 Talc 2755 4,790 Niacinamide 3,000 Caolina 2747 2,000 Carnauba wax, NF 2,000 Propylene carbonate 1,940 Polyethylene AC-617a 1,000 Phenoxyethanol 0.250 Propylparaben, NF 0.100 Tenox BHA 0.100 Color (blue 3403516 or type) 1,810 Total 100,000 The composition is prepared and used as in example Vlll.

EXAMPLE X Mascara Ingredient Quantity (weight percent Petroleum distillate ((IBP 345) 51.220 Glyceryl ester of liquid resin rosin 10,000 Bentona 38 CG or Type 5.890 Magnesium carbonate 309 5,000 Trihydroxystearin (type R) 5,000 Carnauba wax, NF 2,000 Niacinamide 10,000 Caolina 2747 2,000 Propylene carbonate 1,940 Polyethylene AC-617a 1,000 Phenoxyethanol 0.250 Color 5.500 Tenox BHA 0.100 Propylparaben, NF 0.100 Total 100,000 The composition is prepared and used as in Example VIII.

EXAMPLE XI Lipstick Ingredient% by weight Polybutene 4.536 Lanolin oil 18.342 Octoxiglyceryl behenate 18.342 Stearyl heptanoate 8.856 Jojoba oil 8.856 Castor oil 21.78 Butylated hydroxytoluene 0.054 Butylated hydroxyanisole 0.054 Microcrystalline wax 6.84 Polyethylene 500 6.84 Niacinamide 4.5 (amphiphilic lipid phase) Lecithin 0.475 Cholesterol 0.475 Phosphate of dicetio 0.05 In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. The niacinamide is subsequently recrystallized by a single solvent method. Next, the recrystallized niacinamide is combined with the castor oil and milled to the appropriate particle size and cylindrical shape. Separately the mixture of ground cylindrical crystalline niacinamide / castor oil, polybutene, lanolin oil, octoxiglyceryl behenate, stearyl heptanoate, jojoba oil, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene 500 is added to a vessel equipped with a heat source and heated to a temperature of about 100 -110 ° C to form a fusion. The fusion is mixed until it becomes homogeneous. The lecithin, cholesterol and dicetyl phosphate are mixed separately under nitrogen and at a temperature of about 110 ° C. The mixture containing lecithin is then added to the mixture containing niacinamide and mixed until it becomes uniform. The mixture is evacuated under vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and incorporated into the proper packaging. The lipstick is applied to the lips to provide color, moisture and improved feeling in the lips.

EXAMPLE XII Lip Balm Ingredient% by weight Cotone of SEFA 84,000 Niacinamide 5,000 Candelilla wax 3,000 Ozokerite wax 1,000 Microcrystalline wax 1,500 Beeswax 5,300 BHT 0.050 Ethylene brazilate 0.050 Propylparaben 0.100 100,000 In a suitable, pure container, chemically synthesized niacinamide is dissolved using an appropriate solvent. The niacinamide is subsequently recrystallized by a single solvent method. Next, the recrystallized niacinamide is mixed with SEFA cotonate and milled to the appropriate cylindrical particle size and shape. The mixture of SEA niacinamide cotonate together with the remaining ingredients is added to a vessel equipped with a heat source and heated to a temperature of about 80-90 ° C to form a melt. The fusion is mixed until it becomes homogeneous. The air is removed from the mixture by vacuum and poured into the appropriate mold. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and incorporated into the proper packaging. The lip balm is applied to the lips to provide moisture and improved feeling in the lips.

EXAMPLE XIII Long-lasting cosmetics A long-lasting cosmetic according to the present invention is prepared in the following manner: A. A mixture (part A) is prepared by combining the following ingredients in a suitable container: Inqredient% by weight Resin MQ1 43.7 PM99A2 56.3 1Trimet¡ls¡lox¡slicato available from GE. 2lsodedecano available from Presperse. The mixture is incorporated using conventional mixing techniques until the MQ resin is dissolved.

Processing B. A mixture (part B) is prepared by combining the following ingredients in a suitable container: Ingredient% by weight Silicone rubber SSE301 50.0 PM99A 50.0 available from GE1 The mixture is incorporated using conventional mixing techniques until the silicone rubber SE30 is dissolved. C- A lipstick containing part A and part B is prepared by combining the following ingredients: Ingredients% by weight 1 Tocopherol nicotinate 1.00 Part A 47.00 Part B 24.91 Pigment (s) 10.00 Propylparaben 0.20 PM99A 1.89 Bentona ISD2 15.00 1 Cylindrical crystalline ticoferinate nicotinate with an average particle size of about 0.01% to about 50%, by weight, having a particle size distribution such that at least about 70% of the crystalline particles have a height ratio Width greater than 1. 210% Benton, 3% Propylene Glycol, 87% Isooxid available from Rheox In a suitable container, the mixture of Part A together with the pigments, propylparaben, cylindrical crystalline tocopheryl nicotinate and PM99A are combined and mixed using a Ross homogenizer at approximately 4,000 rpms for approximately 10 minutes or until the mixture is uniform (taking care not to ignite the PM99A). Bentona ISD is added to the blend combination at approximately 4,000 rpms until the mixture is uniform. The mixture of part B is added to the mixture and is initially incorporated at high shear force, preferably 1600 rpms, to facilitate dispersion using an IKA mixer. Once sufficient dispersion is achieved, the mixer speed is reduced, preferably to about 1,000 rpms, and the mixture is allowed to incorporate until it is uniform. The mixture is then poured into a suitable container and sealed for storage, preferably at room temperature. The long-lasting cosmetic composition is applied to the skin to provide color, moisture and improved skin feeling.

Claims (24)

NOVELTY OF THE INVENTION CLAIMS

1. - A lipstick composition containing crystalline compounds of vitamin B3, and which provides improved sensation in the skin, said composition comprising: a) from about 0.01% to about 50% by weight, of a crystalline vitamin B3 compound having an average particle size of about 0.01 μm to about 200 μm; b) from about 1% to about 90% by weight of an emollient component; and c) from about 1% to about 90% by weight, of a solidifying agent.

2. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that the average particle size of the vitamin B3 compound is from about 0.1 μm to about 100 μm.

3. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that at least 60% of the vitamin B3 compound has a particle size of less than 30 μm.

4. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said vitamin B3 compound is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, niacinamide derivatives, non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid and combinations thereof.

5. The composition of lipstick according to claim 4, further characterized in that said vitamin B3 compound is selected from the group consisting of niacinamide, tocopherol nicotinate and combinations thereof.

6. The lipstick composition according to claim 5, further characterized in that said vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide.

The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said vitamin B3 compound is substantially free of salts of the vitamin B3 compound.

8. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said vitamin B3 compound is not substantially combined.

9. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said composition is substantially free of polar solvents.

10. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further characterized in that said emollient component comprises from about 10% to about 80% of the cosmetic composition.

11. The lipstick composition according to claim 10, further characterized in that said oil comprises from about 5% to about 90% of the emollient component.

12. The composition of lipstick according to claim 10, further characterized in that said emollient is a non-polar emollient.

13. The lipstick composition according to claim 10, further characterized in that said oil is selected so that at least about 75% of the types of oils used have solubility parameters that do not differ by more than about 0.1. to about 1.

14. The lipstick composition according to claim 13, further characterized in that said oil is selected so that at least about 99% of the types of oils used have solubility parameters that do not differ in more than about 0.1 to about 1.5.

15. The lipstick composition according to claim 1, further comprising from about 0.1% to about 35% of a color.

16. The composition of lipstick according to claim 1, further characterized in that the vitamin B3 compound is dispersed in the emollient.

17. - A method for improving the perceived skin feel of crystalline vitamin B3 compounds by applying a safe and effective amount of the lipstick composition of claim 1 to the skin.

18. The lipstick composition in accordance with claim 1, further characterized in that the composition comprises less than about 10% by weight of water of the composition formed.

19. A topical cosmetic composition that provides improved skin feel of crystalline vitamin B3 compounds, said composition comprising: a) from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight of a crystalline vitamin B3 compound having a particle size average of about 0.1 μm to about 200 μm; and b) from about 1% to about 90%, by weight of an emollient component.

20. The composition according to claim 19, further characterized in that the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide.

21. The composition according to claim 19, further characterized in that the vitamin B3 compound is dispersed in the emollient.

22. The composition according to claim 19, further characterized in that the average particle size of the vitamin B3 compound is from about 0.01 μm to about 100 μm.

23. - The composition according to claim 19, further characterized in that the composition is substantially free of polar solvents.

24. The composition according to claim 19, further characterized in that the vitamin B3 compound is dispersed in the emollient.