JP2002536396A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) Abstract: The present invention is composed mainly lipophilic substances as the continuous phase, and relates to topical cosmetic compositions containing the vitamin B ₃ compound. Such compositions are useful for improving the stability and skin permeability of a composition containing a vitamin B ₃ compound.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

[Industrial applications]

The present invention is composed mainly lipophilic substances as the continuous phase, and relates to topical (topical) cosmetic composition containing vitamin B ₃ compound.

[0002]

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

 Vitamin B_ThreeNiacin, also known as niacin, is a common name for nicotinic acid
. The physiologically active form of niacin is nicotinamide, a vitamin B _Three He is also a member of the compound family. Niacin and nicotinamide (nicotinic acid
Amide) has two coenzymes: nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) and
And nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate (NADP)
Works in vivo. Until recently, such vitamin B_ThreeThe compound is exclusively
It was only used to treat asin deficiency and pellagra.

[0003] Today, however, vitamin B ₃ compounds have found use in the area of skin care actives. GB 1,370,236 describes a skin lightening agent composition containing 0.5 to 10% niacin. Similarly, U.S. Pat. No. 4,096,240 discloses the use of 0.1-10% nicotinamide for whitening. Vitamin B ₃ compounds, also useful in that prepare the skin eye in human skin have been found. PCT Application No. WO97 / 3
No. 9733 (Oblong et al.). Moreover, we have:
The vitamin B ₃ compound solubilized by incorporating into cosmetic carrier water in oil, improves the permeability of the skin of the vitamin B ₃ compound, found that their skin regulatory properties are enhanced.

However, because most vitamin B ₃ compounds are soluble in polar solvents, when formulated into a cosmetic composition composed primarily of lipophilic substances (ie, the formation of a lipophilic continuous phase), they are not stable. Can cause problems. When formulated in such compositions, the polar solvent is necessary to dissolve the vitamin B ₃ compound (e.g., polyhydric alcohols, water) tend to separate from the lipophilic substances, the bulk layer nasty appearance Cause it. Moreover, lipophilic stick compositions (
For example, when formulating lipsticks), such phase separation manifests itself as liquid beads along the surface of the stick composition. This can have a negative effect on consumer acceptability.

Accordingly, an improved skin penetration of the vitamin B ₃ compound, and there is a need for a cosmetic composition good stability comprises vitamin B ₃ compounds provided compositions. The present inventors have found that the stability of a cosmetic composition comprising a vitamin B ₃ compound, a polar solvent and a lipophilic continuous phase has a Krafft point at or below about 20 ° C. and that the associated structure is thermodynamically moisturizing. It has been found that it can be improved by incorporating a surfactant or surfactant mixture that forms an associated structure that can bind to / polar solvents and absorbs uniformly in the lipophilic matrix.

Accordingly, it is an aspect of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a lipophilic continuous phase and a solubilized vitamin B ₃ compound.

[0007] Another aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition comprising a solubilized vitamin B ₃ compounds to penetrate through the skin of the vitamin B ₃ compound is improved.

[0008] Yet another aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic stick composition comprising a vitamin B ₃ compound solubilized.

[0009] Yet another aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic stick composition comprising stabilized by association structure, the vitamin B ₃ compound is a lipophilic continuous phase and solubilized.

[0010] Yet another aspect of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic stick composition that enhances the penetration of vitamin B ₃ compounds into the skin.

[0011] These and other aspects will be readily apparent from the following detailed description.

[0012]

[Means for Solving the Problems]

The present invention, vitamin B ₃ for enhancing the permeability of the skin of the compound relates to useful local (topical) cosmetic composition, vitamin B ₃ of from about 0.01% to about 50% by weight of the composition
Compound; from about 1% to about 90% by weight of the composition of the emollient ingredient, comprising from 0.1% to about 100% by weight of an oil that is liquid at room temperature; From about 0.1% to about 90% by weight of the stabilizing system; and (ii) from about 0.01% to about 80% by weight of the stabilizing system. 30% by weight of a surfactant, wherein the surfactant has a Krafft point at or below about 20 ° C. and forms a stabilizing system; and from about 0.01% to about 0.01% of the composition
Contains about 90% by weight of polar solvent.

[0013] All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All weights for the listed ingredients and the like are based on the activity level, and thus do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercial materials unless otherwise specified.

Definitions As used herein, the term "cosmetics" encompasses make-up products, foundation products and skin care products. The term "make-up" refers to products that leave pigments on the face, including foundations, black and brown, ie, mascara, eye lines, eyebrows, eye shadows, blushers, lipsticks, and the like. Skin care products are those used to treat, treat, moisturize, improve or cleanse the skin. Products anticipated by the phrase "skincare product" include bandages, bandages, toothpastes, anhydrous occlusive humectants, powdered laundry detergents, fibrous soft towels, occlusive drug delivery patches, antiperspirants, deodorants, nail varnishes , Powder,
Examples include, but are not limited to, tissues, wipes, solid emulsion compacts, anhydrous hair conditioners, and the like. The term "foundation" refers to liquids, creams, mousses, pancakes, concealers, and the like that are created or reintroduced by a cosmetics company to even out the overall coloration of the skin. The foundation is manufactured to work well on over-moistened skin and / or oiled skin.

[0015] As used herein, the term "associative structure" refers to the aggregation of surfactant and / or polymer molecules such that they tend to form an ordered composite structure. The association structure is also known as a liquid crystal phase. All that is required for the formation of a liquid crystal is that the hydrocarbon portion of the amphiphilic molecule be transformed into a disordered state, such as that in the liquid state. In such a structure, there is long-range order in at least one dimension, despite the high degree of short-range disorder.

As used herein, the term “solid substance” refers to any solidified component capable of absorbing an associated structure. Solids include waxes, solid fats, clays, fillers, powders, U.S.A.s, which are commonly used to thicken or solidify cosmetic compositions.
V absorbers, suspending agents, waxy emulsifiers or pigments.

As used herein, “dye or colorant” includes pigments, dyes, colors, lakes, and pearls. Dye is measured on an anhydrous weight basis.

As used herein, the term “lecithin” refers to a substance that is a phospholipid. Naturally occurring or synthetic phospholipids can be used. Phosphatidylcholine or lecithin is glycerin esterified with choline esters of phosphoric acid and two fatty acids, and is usually a long-chain saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, usually having 16-20 carbons and up to 4 double bonds. . Other phospholipids capable of forming an associative structure, preferably a layered or hexagonal liquid crystal, can be used instead of or in combination with lecithin. Other phospholipids are glycerol esters with two fatty acids, such as lecithin, but choline is ethanolamine (cephalin) or serine (α-aminopropanoic acid;
Phosphatidylserine) or inositol (phosphatidylinositol).

As used herein, the term “surfactant” refers to those which are amphiphilic in nature, low molecular weight or monomeric, non-polymeric organic compounds, ie, they are hydrophilic groups and It has hydrophobic groups and absorbs on the surface or at the interface, showing a pronounced tendency to lower surface tension. Surfactants or emulsifiers can be nonionic (uncharged), anionic (negative), based on whether they ionize in aqueous media.
Cationic (positive charge) and zwitterionic (both charge) types. Surfactants are monomers and are derived from natural oils, fats and crude oils. As used herein, the term "surfactant" refers to a single organic compound as well as a mixture of surfactants.

As used herein, “polar solvent” refers to a polar substance that can form an associated structure with a surfactant. Some examples of polar solvents include glycerin,
Panthenol (preferably panthenol mixed with glycerin or alcohol), propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, water,
Alcohols, alkane diols, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, martial and mixtures thereof.

As used herein, the term “comprising” means that the composition can contain other components that are compatible with the composition and preferably do not substantially disrupt the association structure of the present invention. . The term encompasses the terms “consisting of” and “consisting essentially of”.

As used herein, the term “ambient temperature”
The temperature, also known as "room temperature", typically about 20
Means ° C. In general, room temperature can range from about 18 ° C. to about 27 ° C., preferably from about 20 ° C. to about 25 ° C., depending on geographic location, ie, variables such as subtropical and temperate zones.

The essential components vitamin B ₃ composition components present invention include natural or synthetic vitamin B ₃ compound of safe and effective amount. The compositions of the present invention are preferably from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 30%, even more preferably from 0.5% to about 20%, and most preferably about 1%. comprising about to about 10% of the vitamin B ₃ compound. As used herein, “vitamin B ₃ compound” means a compound having the formula:

Embedded image Wherein, R -CONH ₂ (i.e., nicotinic acid amide), - COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); a and said any salt; derivatives thereof.

Typical derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compounds include non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxides, and nicotinic acid amide N-oxides. And nicotinic acid esters.

Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include C ₁ -C ₂₂ nicotinic esters, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₆ , more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols. The alcohols are preferably linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably "non-reddening". As used herein, "non-reddening" generally means that the ester does not cause a visible redness reaction after application of the subject composition to the skin (the majority of the general population is Although they will not experience a redness response, such compounds can cause vasodilation that is not visible to the naked eye). Alternatively, a nicotinic acid material that is reddening at high concentrations may be used at low concentrations to suppress redness. Non-reddening esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.

Another derivative of the vitamin B ₃ compound is a derivative of nicotinamide as a result of replacing one or more hydrogens of the amide group. Examples of nicotinamide derivatives useful herein include, for example, active nicotinic acid compounds (eg, nicotinic azide or nicotinyl chloride) and nicotinyl alcohol esters of amino acids and organic carboxylic acids (eg, C 1 -18) nicotinyl amino acids derived from the reaction, but is not limited thereto. Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotineuric acid and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid having the following chemical structure:

Nicotineuric acid:

Embedded image

Nicotinyl hydroxamic acid:

Embedded image

Typical nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters such as salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid and palmitic acid. Other examples of Vitamin B ₃ compounds useful herein are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methyl nicotinamide, n- methyl - nicotinamide, n, n- diethyl nicotinamide, n -(Hydroxymethyl) -nicotinamide, quinolinimide, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde,
Isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide,
1- (3-pyridylmethyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and niaprazine.

Examples of the above-mentioned vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known to those skilled in the art, and are available from a number of vendors, such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo.); ICN Biomedical Company (Irvine, Calif.) And Aldrich Chemical Company ( Commercially available from Milwaukee, Wis.

[0031] One or more vitamin B ₃ compounds can be used herein. Preferred vitamin B ₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Nicotinamide is more preferred.

When used, the salts, derivatives and salt derivatives of nicotinamide preferably have substantially the same effectiveness as nicotinamide in the methods of regulating skin conditions described herein.

[0033] Salts of vitamin B ₃ compounds are also useful herein. Examples of salts of Vitamin B ₃ compounds useful herein, inorganic species anions (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbon, preferably chloride) organic or inorganic salts such as inorganic salts with And (carboxylates having 1 to 18 carbon atoms of mono-, di-, and tri-,
Examples include, but are not limited to, acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, and organic carboxylate (including, preferably, monocarboxylate such as acetate). These and other vitamin B ₃ compound salts can be readily prepared by those skilled in the art, for example, as described in The reaction of L-ascorbic acid and D-isoascorbic acid with nicotinic acid and its amide by W. Wenner (The Raction of L-Ascorbic)
and D-isoascorbic Acid with Nicotiniric Acid and Its Amide) "(J. Organ
ic Chemistry, vol. 14, pages 22-26, 1949), which is incorporated herein by reference. Wenner describes the synthesis of ascorbate and nicotinamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the cyclic nitrogen of the vitamin B ₃ compound is substantially chemically free (eg, unbound and / or unhindered) or after being delivered to the skin Substantially chemically free ("chemically free" is hereinafter referred to in another way as "not forming a complex"). More preferably,
Vitamin B ₃ compound is not complex in nature. Therefore, if the composition contains as a complex or otherwise the vitamin B ₃ compound as a salt, when the composition is applied to the skin, such complexes are preferably sufficiently reversible, more preferably It is inherently reversible. For example, such a complex may be present in a range from about 5.0 to about 6.0.
At a pH of, it should be substantially reversible. Such reversibility can be easily determined by those skilled in the art.

More preferably, the vitamin B ₃ compound is substantially uncomplexed in the composition prior to application to the skin. Or to minimize the production of undesirable complexes, or as a specific method for preventing substantially to exclude substances that produces a complex or other complex of vitamin B ₃ compound and irreversibility in, pH adjusters, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, and the like can be incorporated into the vitamin B ₃ compounds and substances different phases from which it is formed with complex. Such methods are well-known to those skilled in the art.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the vitamin B ₃ compound contains a limited amount of the salt form, and more preferably, substantially no salts of the vitamin B ₃ compound.
Preferably the vitamin B ₃ compound contains such salts of less than about 50%, more preferably is essentially none has the form of a salt. vitamin B ₃ compound in the compositions herein is a pH from about 4 to about 7 typically contain less than about 50% in the form of a salt.

The vitamin B ₃ compound may be included as a substantially pure substance or as an extract obtained by performing a suitable physical and / or chemical separation from natural (eg, plant) sources. Vitamin B ₃ compound is preferably sufficiently pure, more preferably essentially pure.

[0038] Vitamin B ₃ compounds that are present in crystalline form are particularly preferred for use herein.

Emollient Component The composition of the present invention further comprises an emollient component suitable for suspending or otherwise dispersing the crystalline vitamin B ₃ compound therein. Is known or otherwise suitable for use in cosmetic applications, and may be used conform to vitamin B ₃ compound in the composition of any emollient in the present compositions.

Emollients suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are materials as referenced in the personal care industry, such as fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, and combinations thereof. Assists in application and adhesion, produces gloss, and most importantly provides a moisturizing occlusion.

Emollients suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention include isostearic acid derivatives, isopropyl palmitate, lanolin oil, diisopropyl dimerate, maleated soybean oil, octyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl lactate, cetyl. Ricinoleate, tocopheryl acetate, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, phenyltrimethicone, glyceryl oleate,
Tocopheryl linoleate, malt glyceride, arachidyl propionate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, propylene glycol ricinoleate, isopropyl lanolate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate / dicaplate, hydrogenated coco glyceride , Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, myristal myristate, triisocetyl citrate, cetyl alcohol, octyl dodecanol, oleyl alcohol, panthenol, lanolin alcohol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, sucrose ester of fatty acid Octyl hydroxystearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable emollients are one of the Cosmetic Bench References (1996), the description of which is incorporated herein by reference.
. It can be found on pages 19-1.22.

[0042] Suitable oils for use in the compositions of the present invention include esters, triglycerides, hydrocarbons and silicones. They may be a single material or a mixture of one or more materials. They are usually 0% of the emollient component.
. 1% to about 100%, preferably about 5% to about 90%, and most preferably about 70%
% To about 90%.

The oil acts as an emollient and imparts viscous, sticky and drag properties to cosmetic compositions such as lipsticks. Examples of suitable oils are: caprylic triglyceride; capric triglyceride; isostearic triglyceride; adipic triglyceride; propylene glycol myristyl acetate; lanolin; lanolin oil; polybutene; isopropyl palmitate; isopropyl myristate;
Isopropyl isostearate; diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; tocopheryl acetate; tocopheryl linoleate; hexadecyl stearate; ethyl lactate; cetyl oleate; Octyldodecanol; malt oil; hydrogenated vegetable oil; castor oil; petrolatum; modified lanolin; branched chain hydrocarbons; alcohols and esters; corn oil; cottonseed oil; olive oil; palm kernel oil; rapeseed oil; ; Evening primrose oil; volatile and non-volatile, including avocado oil mineral oil, shea butter, octyl palmitate, maleated soybean oil, glycerol trioctanoate, diisopropyl dimerate, and phenyltrimethicone Recone oil and the like.

Preferred oils for use herein are alcohols such as acetylglyceride, octanoate, and glycols and glycerol, and alcohols such as the polyhydric alcohols decanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, and the polyhydric alcohol ricinoleate, PG-3 diisostearic acid, polyglycerol ether,
Polyglycerol ester, caprylic triglyceride, capric triglyceride, isostearic triglyceride, adipic triglyceride, phenyltrimethicone, lanolin oil, polybutene, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl ricinoleate, octyldodecanol, oleyl alcohol, hydrogen Added vegetable oil, castor oil, modified lanolins, octyl palmitate, lanolin oil, maleated soybean oil, cetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, diisopropyl dimerate, synthetic lanolin derivatives and branched-chain alcohols, sucrose esters of fatty acids Octyl hydroxystearate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil used is the majority of the type of oil used (at least about 75
%, Preferably at least about 80%, and most preferably at least about 99%) have solubility parameters that do not differ by more than about 1 to about 0.1, preferably about 0.8 to about 0.1. Selected.

The emollient component may comprise from about 1% to about 90% of the cosmetic composition, preferably from about 10% to
About 80%, more preferably about 20% to about 70%, and most preferably about 40% to about 6%.
0% is included.

Stabilizing System The compositions of the present invention further include a stabilizing system. As used herein, the phrase "stabilizing system" means a system that prevents the coalescence of polar solvent droplets and / or, in the case of a stick composition, its migration to the surface of the stick.

A. ) Solidifying Agents The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are referred to herein alone or collectively as "solidifying agents", which are effective to solidify certain liquid-based materials to be used in cosmetic compositions. Or it may contain more substances. (As used herein, the term "solidifies" refers to a solid or semi-solid that can form under room temperature conditions.
That is, to physically and / or chemically alter a liquid-based material so that it has a stable physical structure and can form a final composition that deposits on the skin under normal conditions of use. 2.) As one of ordinary skill in the art would expect, the selection of a particular solidifying agent for use in a cosmetic composition will depend on the particular type of composition desired, ie, the type based on gel or wax, the desired rheology. , Depending on the liquid-based material used and other materials to be used in the composition. The solidifying agent is preferably about 0.1%
To about 90%, more preferably about 1 to about 50%, even more preferably about 5% to about 4%.
It is present at a concentration of 0%, most preferably from about 3% to about 20%.

Embodiments of the waxy cosmetic sticks of the present invention preferably comprise from about 5% by weight to
It contains about 50% by weight of a waxy solidifying agent. As used herein, by the term "waxy solidifying agent" is meant a solidified material having the characteristics of a waxy material. Such waxy substances also act as emollients. Among the waxy materials useful herein are high melting waxes, i.e., having a melting point of about 65C to about 125C, for example, beeswax, spermaceti, carnauba, whiteberry, candelilla wax. , Montan wax, ground wax, ceresin wax, paraffin, Fisher-Tropsch
) There are synthetic waxes, such as waxes, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof. Among the preferred high melting waxes, ceresin wax, ground wax, white beeswax, synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof are useful herein. Compositions containing waxes among those useful herein are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,049,792, issued Sep. 20, 1977, Elsnau, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Is incorporated herein). Low melting waxes having a melting point of about 37 ° C to about 75 ° C are preferred for use in the waxy stick embodiments of the present invention. Embodiments of the waxy sticks of the present invention that contain volatile silicone oil as a liquid-based material preferably comprise from about 10% to about 35%, more preferably from about 10% to about 20% (by weight).
Low-melting wax. Such materials include fatty acids having a fatty chain of about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides, and mixtures thereof. Preferred waxy materials include cetyl alcohol, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, behenamide, sucrose esters of tallow fatty acids, mono- and di-fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Fatty acids, fatty alcohols useful in the present invention,
And other waxy materials are also disclosed in the following references, all of which are incorporated herein by reference: U.S. Patent No. 4,151,272 (April 1979).
Geary et al., Issued on May 24; U.S. Pat. No. 4,229,432 (1
Geria, issued October 21, 980); and US Pat. No. 4,280,
994, (July 28, 1981, Turney); "The Chemistry and Technology of Waxes" (AH Warth,
Second Edition 1960 reprint, publisher: Reinhold Publishing Corporation, 391-
Pp. 393 and 421); The Petroleum Chemical
s Industry ") (RF Goldstein and AL Waddeam, 3rd edition (1967)
Publisher: E & FN Span Ltd., pp. 33-40); The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics (MG DeNavarre, 2nd edition (1970), Publisher: Van Nostrand & Company, pp. 354-376); and in the Encylopedia of Chemical Technology: Vol. 24, Kirk-Othmer, 3rd Edition (1979), pages 466-481. A preferred waxy material useful as a solidifying agent in the present waxy stick is U.S. Pat. No. 4,126,679 (issued Nov. 21, 1978, Davy et al.).
, All of which are incorporated herein by reference. Preferred mixtures of waxy substances are aliphatic alcohols containing carbon chains of about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms,
And an alcohol having a chain length of 20 or more carbons, wherein the final mixture contains from about 1% to about 3% by weight of a longer chain aliphatic alcohol. Compositions containing such fatty alcohol mixtures are described in EP 117,070
(Published August 29, 1984) (incorporated herein by reference).

Also useful herein are biopolymers as described in European Patent Application No. 522,624 (Dunphy et al.), All of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Embodiments of the gel sticks of the present invention preferably contain from about 3% to about 30%, preferably from about 3% to about 10%, by weight of a solidifying agent. The particular amount of solidifying agent to be used will depend on the particular solidifying agent used and the liquid-based material and the desired physical characteristics of the gel stick. Solidifying agents useful in the gel stick embodiments of the present invention are generally surface-active compounds that solidify a liquid-based material in a gel or form a network that solidifies. Such solidifying agents include: higher fatty acids, i.e., soaps such as sodium and potassium salts of acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms; amides of higher fatty acids; higher fatty acid amides of alkyloamines; dibenzoaldehyde-monosorbitol acetal. Alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts of acetate, propionate and lactate; waxy substances such as candelilla wax and carnauba wax; and mixtures thereof. Among such solidifying agents, preferred for use in the gel stick embodiments of the present invention are sodium stearate, sodium palmitate, aluminum stearate, aluminum magnesium hydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof. is there. Gel stick compositions containing solidifying agents among those useful herein are described in the following patent documents, all of which are incorporated herein by reference: US Patent No. 2,900, No. 306 (August 18, 1959, Slater); US Pat. No. 3,255,082 (June 7, 1966, Barton); US Pat. No. 4,137,306 (1979 1
Rubino et al., Issued on Jan. 30; U.S. Pat. No. 4,154,816 (19
Roehl et al., Issued May 15, 1979; U.S. Pat. No. 4,226,889.
No. (issued Oct. 7, 1980, Yuhas); U.S. Pat. No. 4,346.
No. 079 (August 24, 1982, Roehl); U.S. Pat.
No. 83,988 (May 17, 1983, Teng et al.); European Patent Specification No. 107,330 (May 2, 1984, Luebbe et al.); And U.S. Patent Application No. No. 630,790 (submitted July 13, 1984, DiPietro). Preferred solidifying agents useful in the gel stick embodiments of the present invention are described in EP 24,365 (published May 4, 1981, Sampson et al.), All of which are incorporated by reference. Incorporated herein.

Conventional thickeners are also useful herein as solidifying agents. Examples of suitable thickeners include
Carob gum, sodium alginate, sodium caseinate, egg albumin, gelatin agar, carrageenan gum, sodium alginate, xanthan gum,
Natural macromolecules such as quince seed extract, tragacanth gum, starch, chemically modified starch, etc., cellulose ethers (eg, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl Semi-synthetic polymeric substances such as guar gum, soluble starch, cationic cellulose, cationic guar, etc., and carboxyvinyl polymers;
Synthetic polymeric materials such as, but not limited to, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol polyacrylic acid polymer, polymethacrylic acid polymer, polyvinyl acetate polymer, polyvinyl chloride polymer, polyvinylidene chloride polymer, and the like. For example, inorganic thickeners such as aluminum silicate, such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate can also be used. Natural or biopolymers and their uses are further described in European Patent Application No. 522,624 (Danphy (
Dunphy) et al.). Additional examples of natural or biopolymers are found in the Cosmetic Bench Reference 1.
Found at pages 40-1.42, incorporated herein by reference.

Also useful herein as a solidifying agent is a registered trademark of Carbopol® resin under the trademark B.A. F. Acrylic acid sold by Goodrich Company /
Hydrophilic gelling agents such as ethyl acrylic acid copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Such resins are substantially prepared from acrylic acid crosslinked colloidal water soluble polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymers with a crosslinker such as 0.75% to 2.00% polyallyl sucrose or polyallylpentaerythritol. Become. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950
, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with about 1% polyallyl ether of sucrose having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are Carbopol Ultrez 10, Carbopol ETD2020, Carbopol 1382,
Carbopol 1342 and a carbomer sold under the trademark Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA name: acrylate / 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer). Combinations of the above polymers are also used herein. Other gelling agents suitable for use herein include oleogels such as trihydroxystearin.

[0054] Hydrophobic modified cellulose is also suitable as a solidifying agent for use herein. These celluloses are described in detail in U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,228,277 and 5,104,646, both of which are incorporated by reference and incorporated herein in their entirety.

[0055] Additional examples of suitable gelling agents or gelling agents can be found on page 1.27 of the Cosmetic Bench Reference, the description of which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0056] Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the solidifying agent in combination with the emollient acts as an occlusive agent in the skin by forming a continuous or discontinuous bilayer or multilayer on the skin. As used herein, the term “occlusion agent” means to impede or impede something, in which case moisture (via evaporation) from the structure of the skin and vitamin B ₃ compounds ( (Via film bonding).

B. ) Surfactant The composition of the present invention further comprises a surfactant. Surfactants suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are capable of forming associated structures, and preferably form layered liquid crystals or inverted hexagonal crystals when mixed with a polar solvent at room temperature. You can do it. As used herein, the term “ambient temperature” / “room temperature” typically means about 20 ° C. In general, room temperature ranges from about 18 ° C. to about 27 ° C. depending on geographical location, ie, variable factors such as
° C, preferably in the range of about 20 ° C to about 25 ° C. One skilled in the art can determine whether an associated structure forms at room temperature. Surfactants suitable for use generally have Krafft points at about room temperature of about 20 ° C. or less, or generally about 18 ° C. to about 27 ° C. or less, preferably about 20 ° C. to about 25 ° C. or less. Have.

The definition of the Krafft point is known, and one of ordinary skill in the art can determine the Kraft point of a surfactant. In general terms, the Krafft point is the melting point of the hydrocarbon chain of the surfactant. It is also expressed as the temperature at which the solubility of the associated colloid in water suddenly increases as the concentration of critical micelles is exceeded and micelles are formed. Eckwell P (
Ekwall. P.) “Composition, Properties and Structure of Liquid Crystalline Phases”
See in Systems of Amphiphilic Compounds (Advances in Liquid Crystals, Volume 1, Chapter 1, page 81).

In preparing a sample combination of a surfactant and a polar solvent to determine the ability to form an associated structure, the surfactant is a polar solvent so that the associated structure can be formed at room temperature. It must be sufficiently soluble in One skilled in the art can determine the appropriate interaction.

Any surfactant that forms an associated structure at room temperature and that is suitable for use in cosmetics is suitable for use herein. Surfactants suitable for cosmetics do not present dermatological or toxicological problems. Anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof are suitable for use. Preferably, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof having a Krafft point at or below room temperature are used. More preferably, a nonionic surfactant having a Krafft point at or below about room temperature, a cationic surfactant,
Amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof are used.

[0061] Surfactants suitable herein are found in US Pat. No. 5,843,407 (EI-Nokaly), which is incorporated herein by reference.

The association structure of the present invention is also useful for improving the permeability of a vitamin B ₃ compound into the skin. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the associative structure acts as either an occlusive agent or inclusion matrix in the skin by forming a continuous or discontinuous bilayer or multilayer coating on the skin. ing. As used herein, the term “occlusion agent” means to impede or impede something, in which case moisture (via evaporation) from the structure of the skin and vitamin B ₃ compounds ( (Via film bonding). As used herein, "entrapment matrix" refers to a monolayer, multilayer vesicle, tubular micelle, hexagonal liquid crystal, layer liquid crystal, or cubic liquid crystal that can bind to the skin. Comprehensive matrix captures the vitamin B ₃ compound, thus maintaining contact with the vitamin B ₃ compound and the skin. Moreover, it is believed that the trapped or bound polar solvent is slowly released over time because the association structure of the present invention is thermodynamically stable. Whereby the polar solvent is gradually released, it helps maintain a vitamin B ₃ compound in solubilized form, thus help to improve the permeability of the skin of the vitamin B ₃ compound. The occlusal effect is even further enhanced by the addition of the waxy or waxy-like (or gel-like) solidifying agents disclosed above.

The surfactant comprises from about 4% to about 97%, preferably from about 5% to about 95%, more preferably from about 20% to about 90%, and most preferably from about 30% to about 70%. Can be used at any level.

Polar Solvents Solvents useful for forming the association structures of the present invention include any of the polar solvents. Generally, a "polar solvent" contains a hydroxyl group and / or a carbonyl group,
A solvent having a high dielectric constant and a strong polarity. Suitable polar solvents include: water; alcohols such as ethanol, propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, hexanol, and benzyl alcohol; such as propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, maltitol, sorbitol, and glycerin. Polyols; panthenol dissolved in glycerin; flavor oils; and mixtures thereof. Mixtures of such solvents can also be used. Preferred polar solvents are polyhydric alcohols and water. Examples of preferred solvents include glycerin, panthenol in glycerin, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, glycols such as polyethylene glycol, water and mixtures thereof. The most preferred polar solvents to use are alcohols, glycerin, panthenol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0065] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention comprise from about 0.01% to about 90%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 60%, more preferably from about 1% to about 30%, most preferably from about 1% by weight of the composition. Is about 3
% To about 18% of a polar solvent. Preferably, the solvent comprises from about 3% to about 96% by weight,
Preferably used in connection with an association structure at a level of from about 5% to about 95%, more preferably from about 10% to about 80%, most preferably from about 30% to about 70% by weight. .

Preparation of Association Structure The formation of the association structure, ie, the formation of cylindrical reverse micelles and / or liquid crystals, and the concentration at which such an association structure occurs, depends on the particular type of surfactant, solvent, temperature, solvent Depends on various factors, including the solubility of the surfactant and the concentration of the surfactant in the carrier. The purity of the surfactant affects the level of concentration at which the associated structure and particularly preferred lamellar liquid crystal shapes form.

The polar solvent and the surfactant are mixed together. The formation of the associated structure, particularly the preferred layered or hexagonal liquid crystal state, is accelerated by physical stirring. The mixing can be performed by hand (ie, by hand) or by mechanical devices useful in the preparation of cosmetics for home, institution or business. An extruder that provides a shearing operation with mixing can be used.

One-phase liquid crystals are most preferred. It is preferred to utilize substantially two-phase, one-phase or single-phase liquid crystal components (preferably at least 90%).

[0069] Separation of the associated structure from excess liquid (solvent or solution) or solids, and thus detection, may be achieved by ultracentrifugation. Ultracentrifugation is at a sufficiently high centrifugal force (preferably about 20,000) to induce the formation of observable phase boundaries over a period of time.
from about 1 hour to about 16 hours at rpm to about 60,000 rpm, by utilizing a Beckman L8-80 centrifuge equipped with a SW60Ti rotor or about 300 hours.
2,000 ^* g for about 1 hour). Under these conditions, a good separation of the individual phases is obtained. The volume of each phase is determined by correcting the centrifuge tubes, and the volume fraction of the individual phases is thus calculated.

[0070] Optionally, the compositions of the present invention may include additional colloidal structures.
Non-limiting examples of such colloidal structures are emulsions and gel networks.
A detailed description of such and other colloidal structures is provided by Niels J. Krog, "Food Emulsifiers" (1997), published by Niels J. Krog. Company: Marcel Dekker, Inc.
) On pages 141-188.

Optional Dyes Certain embodiments of the present invention, preferably lipsticks or lip paints, comprise from about 0.1% to about 90%, preferably from about 1% to about 3%, based on anhydrous pigment weight.
It may further comprise 5%, more preferably about 1% to about 20%, most preferably about 5% to about 15% dye. They are usually aluminum, barium or calcium salts, or lakes. Preferably, the dye is present from about 0.1% to about 4% and the pearl color is present from 0% to about 20%.

When incorporated into a lip composition, the pigment is typically dispersed in an emollient for good dispersion of the pigment, thus providing a uniform distribution of the pigment. Excellent dispersion of pigments can be achieved as a means of incorporating dyes / pigments into the cosmetic compositions of the present invention by utilizing an association structure, preferably a layered liquid crystal.
A preferred method of incorporating the dry pigment involves the following steps: (a) preparing a mixture consisting essentially of: (1) a polar solvent; and (2) having a Krafft point at or below about room temperature. A surfactant selected from the group consisting of amphoteric, cationic, anionic and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof; and (b) stirring the mixture until an associated structure is formed; (c) Adding and mixing the dry pigment until a uniform mixture is achieved; (d) milling the mixture until a particle size is achieved; and (e) remaining components until a uniform mixture is obtained; Add the mixture of c) and mix.

If the components of the cosmetic composition have been treated to form an associated structure in situ, a preferred method of incorporating the dry pigment is to include one or more liquid emollient components To make them muddy (slurry).

Dyes / pigments suitable for use herein are all inorganic and organic dyes / pigments suitable for use in the lipstick composition.

Lakes are either pigments that are stretched or diluted with a solid diluent or organic pigments prepared by precipitation of a water-soluble dye on an absorbent surface (usually aluminum hydrate). Pigment. There is also uncertainty as to whether the soluble dye precipitates on the surface of the aluminum hydrate to yield a dyed inorganic pigment, or simply precipitates in the presence of the substrate. Lakes also form from the precipitation of insoluble salts from acid or basic dyes. Calcium and barium lakes are also used herein.

Lakes suitable for use in the present invention include red No. 3 aluminum lake, red No. 21 aluminum lake, red No. 27 aluminum lake, red No. 28 aluminum lake, red No. 33 aluminum lake, yellow No. 5 aluminum lake,
Yellow No. 6 aluminum lake, Yellow No. 10 aluminum lake, Orange No. 5 aluminum lake and Blue No. 1 aluminum lake, Red No. 6 barium lake, Red No. 7 calcium lake.

Dyes and other pigments and pigments such as pearlescent, titanium oxide, red 6, red 21, brown, red and reddish dyes, chalk, talc, iron oxide and titanated mica are also included in the lipstick. be able to.

Preferably, the pigment component is a water-insoluble particulate solid having an average primary particle size diameter of less than about 5 microns, preferably less than 2 microns, more preferably less than 1 micron.

Without being bound by theory, such solid particulates may themselves act as a boundary and thus be located at the interface between the dispersed droplets (ie, the discontinuous phase) and the continuous phase. It is believed to prevent coalescence of the dispersed droplets and thus improve stability. A more detailed description of this phenomenon can be found in SE Friberg and Carla Larson (K), all of which are incorporated herein by reference.
are Larsson), "Food Emulsions" (Publisher: Marcel
Dekker, Inc., 1997), pp. 36-41.

A dispersant may be used together with the coloring matter and the pigment of the present invention. Examples of suitable dispersants include, but are not limited to, those described in US Pat. No. 5,688,493, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Other Additives Other optional ingredients that may be present in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include flavor oils, fat-soluble vitamins such as vitamins A and E, vitamin A (eg, acetate, propionic acid, Or palmitic acid) and esters of vitamin E (eg, acetate or sorbate), octylmethoxycinnamate, sunscreens such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, fungicides such as triclosan, Anti-inflammatory agents such as cortisone, lipid materials such as ceramides and liposomes, and skin care actives. The cosmetic composition may include ingredients conventionally used in cosmetic compositions such as mascaras, foundations or lip care products. This includes skin care actives such as pharmaceutical actives.

The skin care active can be added to the cosmetic composition of the present invention in both water-soluble and water-insoluble forms. These include vitamin C and its derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl phosphate and its salts such as magnesium or sodium), vitamin D, panthenol, retinoic acid, zinc oxide, beta glycyretinic acid; Extract; pyroglutamic acid, salt or ester; sodium hyaluronate; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid; sulfur; salicylic acid; carboxymethylcysteine, and mixtures thereof.

Such additives are generally less than about 10% by weight, both fat-soluble and water-soluble, generally from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, preferably about 0.01% by weight. % To about 3% by weight, most preferably from about 0.1% to about 1% by weight.

Flavor oils such as peppermint oil, orange oil, tangerine oil, wintergreen oil can be used with alcohol or glycerin. Flavor oils are usually mixed with a solvent such as ethanol to dilute the flavor. Flavor oils useful herein can be derived from natural sources or can be prepared synthetically. Generally, flavor oils are mixtures of ketones, alcohols, fatty acids, esters and terpenes. The term "flavor oil" is generally recognized in the art as a liquid that is usually insoluble in water and is derived, for example, from leaves, bark, peel or vegetable skin.
The level of flavor oil used can range from 0% to about 5%, preferably 0% to about 1%.

[0085] Additional humectants may also be included in the composition. Preferred humectants include pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, sodium or lactic acid, urea, guanidine, glyceric acid and its salts (eg, calcium salt), petrolatum, collagen, α-hydroxypropyl glyceryl ether, α-hydroxy acid (eg, ethyl Glycolic acid, leucic acid, mandelic acid, glycolic acid), glucosamines, and elastin fibers, D-panthenol, allantoin and hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate. Examples of suitable humectants are described in the Cosmetic Bench Reference (1996) 1.30-, the description of which is incorporated herein by reference.
1.32 pages can be found.

Emulsifiers, also commonly known as coupling agents, useful herein can also be used herein. The overall concentration of the emulsifier can be from 0% to about 20% of the formulation,
Preferably it can be 0% to about 15%, most preferably about 1% to about 10%. Examples of suitable emulsifiers are described in US Pat. No. 5,085,856 (Dunphy).
No. 61-83110; European Patent Application EP-522624 (Dunphy et al.); U.S. Pat. No. 5,688,831 (EI-Nocurry (El-
Nokaly) et al.); And examples of suitable humectants are cosmetics
1.22 of the Cosmetic Bench Reference (1996)
Pages 1.24-1.26, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention preferably comprises: a) from about 1% to about 10% of the cosmetic composition;
% Nicotinamide, b) about 0.1% to about 50%, preferably about 0.1% to about 15% of a polar solvent, c) about 0.1% to about 20% of a surfactant, and d) about 0.1
% To about 50% oil at room temperature. The surfactant is preferably a mixture,
About 50% to about 75% of the mixture has a Krafft point at or below about room temperature and is made of surfactants that form an associated structure at room temperature, from about 25% to about 50%.
% Of the mixture is made up of surfactants, which are coupling agents. Another preferred mixture of a surfactant capable of forming an associated structure and a surfactant acting as a coupling agent is lecithin, PG-3 diisostearic acid, sorbitan monooleate, cholesterol 12 hydroxystearate and pentaerythritol It is a fatty acid ester.

A preferred optional ingredient is ethyl cellulose (Ethocel). Ethyl cellulose is generally preferred for use at a level of about 5%, more preferably 1%.

Another preferred optional ingredient is silica. Silica is generally from about 1% to about 5%
Preferred for use at the level.

The hypoallergenic compositions can be made herein from liquid crystals, waxes, oils and pigments. Such lipsticks should not contain flavors, flavor oils, lanolin, sunscreens, especially PABA, other sensitizers or potential sensitizers and stimulants.

The compositions of the present invention can also make cosmetic compositions that do not remove makeup or transfer makeup. A detailed discussion of such lipsticks can be found in Japanese Patent Publication No. 6-199630 and European Patent Application 748 622, both of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Additional optional materials that can be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention can be found in PCT Application No. WO 97/39733 (Oblong et al.).
Production method

[0093] The present invention encompasses a method of preparing a stable cosmetic composition comprising vitamin B ₃ compound. Can be used conventional formulation and mixing techniques, generally it dissolve the vitamin B ₃ compound in the polar solvent and a hydrophobic base constituted by emollient component,
And adding the solution to a stabilizing system comprising a solidifying agent and a surfactant to obtain a cosmetic composition included as described above. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention is, of vitamin B ₃ compounds, in particular improve the penetration of the skin in the lips, provides a method for improving the stability of the product. Traditional formulation and mixing techniques are described in Harry's Cosmetic (Harr)
y's Cosmeticology (JB Wilkinson and RJ Moore, 7th edition, 1982), pages 119-141 and 314-354, and cosmetics: Cosmetics: Science and Technology, (MS Balsam and E. Sagarin). ,
Second Edition, 1972), pages 1-104 and 307-422, both of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Method of Use The cosmetic compositions of the invention are ideally suited for use on the skin and lips, especially in the form of lipsticks or lip balms, ideally with a glossy or pearlescent finish. It is suitable for applying a pigment that does not fall off or hardly loses color.
Skin and / or skin by skin care agents to protect against wind and rain, dry and / or hot environments, or exposure to environmental pollution (eg, ozone, smoking, etc.) or harmful weather including excessive amounts of sunlight. Cosmetic compositions can also be used in treating the lips. The composition also provides sun protection, moisturizing and / or conditioning to hair and skin, improves skin sensation, smoothes skin texture, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, and reduces oils in hair and skin. It is useful for reducing whitish shine, lightening skin, and reducing skin or hair odor.

Thus, the cosmetic composition may be prepared using a convenient holder or applicator,
It can be applied to the skin and / or lips in a traditional manner, and has a decorative and / or
Or provide a protective coating.

[0096]

【Example】

The cosmetic formulations shown in Examples IX illustrate, but do not limit, specific embodiments of the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Other changes may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Such an exemplary embodiment of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, as well as the improved stability of the cosmetic composition provides improved penetration to the skin of the vitamin B ₃ compound.

All of the exemplified compositions can be prepared by conventional formulation and mixing techniques. The amounts of the components are given in weight percent and exclude relatively minor substances such as diluents, fillers and the like. The formulations described thus comprise the listed components and the relatively minor substances associated with such components.

[0098]

[Table 1]

The above ingredients are added to a stainless steel container equipped with a heat source. About 85 ingredients
Heat to 0 ° C and mix until uniform. The mixture is poured into a mold and cooled to room temperature. Applying the lipstick to the lips provides improved skin penetration of the pigment, moisturizing and nicotinamide.

[0100]

[Table 2]

The components for the associative structure phase, excluding the pigment, are mixed until an associative structure is formed. Once the association structure has been formed, the pigment is added and ground on a three roll mill. The mixture is then mixed with the other ingredients and mixed until a homogeneous mixture. (Or
Alternatively, the above components are added and simultaneously mixed together. ) Add this mixture to 8
Heat to 5 ° C. then pour into mold at room temperature. Applying the lipstick to the lips provides hue, moisturizing, and improved skin penetration of nicotinamide.

[0102]

[Table 3] A composition is prepared and used as in Example II.

[0103]

[Table 4] ¹ # 1154-141-1, GE Silicone A composition is prepared as in Example II.

[0104]

[Table 5] ¹ Ajinomoto GP-12 ² Benol white mineral oil manufactured by Witco Chemical Corp.
³ Shell Cemol (Schercem) manufactured by Scher Cherfficals
ol) DIS

In a stainless steel container, nicotinamide is dissolved in water and combined with lecithin to form an associated structure. Separately, the gelling agent and the liquid pace material are mixed in a container equipped with a heat source. With stirring, heat the mixture to between about 80 ° C. and about 130 ° C. until the mixture forms a homogeneous dissolution solution. Preferably, the homogeneous dissolution solution is cooled to a temperature for mixing, typically between about 65 ° C and 120 ° C. (Alternatively, the mixture is simply heated to the temperature for mixing until the mixture forms a homogeneous dissolved solution. This alternative, however, takes longer than heating to high temperatures and then cooling 2.) While stirring, add the nicotinamide mixture, the antiperspirant active and other ingredients such as fragrances and pigments to the homogeneous dissolution solution in the container. Cool the mixture until it begins to thicken, then pour the mixture into a container and cool to room temperature. (Although not preferred, an antiperspirant active may alternatively be added along with the gelling agent and the liquid base material in an initial step.)

The antiperspirant composition included as described above is applied to humans under the armpit, reduces perspiration in the application area, and improves odor in this area.

[0107]

[Table 6] ¹ Isopar "V" average molecular weight; 197, boiling range 255-301 ° C

In a stainless steel container, nicotinamide is dissolved in butylene and combined with lecithin to form an associated structure. Separately, mix the isoparaffin solution, the water-insoluble liquid emollient, the surfactant, and the water-insoluble waxy substance, heat to a temperature sufficient to form a solution of such material, and then gently stir While adding the active astringent antiperspirant salt. After adding the nicotinamide mixture and salt, other optional ingredients such as talc may be added and mixed until a uniform suspension is formed. The suspension is cooled to the above solidification point and then poured into a suitable container.

The antiperspirant composition included as described above is applied to humans under the armpit, reduces perspiration in the application area and improves odor in this area.

[0110]

[Table 7] ¹ Colloidal silica thickener, Cabot Corporation
² ) Low density polyethylene powder, U.S.A. S. I. ³ Hydroxyethylcellulose sold by Chemicals, ⁴ Sold by Hercules ⁴ 2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8-dimethyl-1 obtained from Permethyl Corporation (Frazer, PA)
O-methylundecane ⁵ zirconium-aluminum-glycine hydroxychloride complex, particulate antiperspirant active, Reheis Chemical Company
More sold

Add the cyclomethicone dimethicone, isoeicosane and fragrance to a stainless steel mixing vessel. The Cab-O-Sil is then added, then microcene and natrosol, and finally the antiperspirant active. After adding each particulate matter,
Stir the composition thoroughly. Black & Coles with a 6.35 cm diameter Coles dispersion wing at approximately 6,000 rpm
Decker Die Grinder (Type 4420,
Grind the composition for about 5 minutes using type 4). The permeability value of the milled composition is approximately 300 grams at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity. The antiperspirant cream formulation included as described above is applied to humans under the armpit to reduce sweating in the application area and improve odor in this area.

[0112]

[Table 8] Available from ¹ Henkel / Emery as Emerest 2400. ² Available from Croda as Syncrowax HGL-C. ³ Available from Hercules as Foral 105. ⁴ Available as Centrolex F from Central Soya. ⁵ Available from Givaudan as Amphisol K.

The wax and fat are mixed in a vessel equipped with a heat source. The wax and fat are heated and mixed at low speed using a conventional mixer to liquefy the mixture. Continue mixing until the mixture is homogeneous. Add the pigment to the homogeneous mixture. Increase the mixing speed and mix the pigment in the mixture for a uniform dispersion for about 30-35 minutes. Continue mixing while adding the emulsifier. In a second container equipped with a heat source, water is added, followed by nicotinamide, lecithin and other water dispersible components. Heat the mixture to a temperature of about 80-95 ° C and mix. Add water if necessary to prevent water loss. The aqueous mixture and the lipophilic mixture are combined and mixed using a disperser-type mixer.
Mixing is continued until the mixture is cooled to a temperature of about 65-70 ° C. The preservative is added with mixing and the mixture is further cooled to 45-47 ° C. Add any remaining ingredients while mixing. The combined mixture is cooled to the above solidification temperature and then poured into a suitable container. The mascara composition is applied to the eyelashes and / or eyebrows and provides softening, moisturizing and conditioning.

[0114]

[Table 9] Available from ¹ Henkel / Emery as Emerest 2400. ² Available from Croda as Syncrowax HGL-C. ³ Available from Hercules as Foral 105. ⁴ Available as Centrolex F from Central Soya. ⁵ Available from Givaudan as Amphisol K. ⁶ Available from ISP as PVP / VAS-630. A mascara is prepared and used as in Example VIII.

[0115]

[Table 10]

In a suitable container, castor oil, polybutene, lanolin oil, octoxyglyceryl behenate, stearylheptanoate, jojoba oil, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene 500 To a vessel equipped with a heat source and heated to a temperature of about 100-110 ° C. to form a melt. Mix the melt until uniform. Separately, nicotinamide is dissolved in a polar solvent (eg, water). The nicotinamide solution is then mixed with lecithin, cholesterol and dicetyl phosphate to form an associated structure. The nicotinamide / association structure mixture is then added to the mixture containing castor oil and mixed until homogeneous. Degas the mixture with vacuum and pour into a suitable mold. Cool the mixture to room temperature and incorporate into suitable packaging. The lipstick is applied to the lips and provides improved pigment, moisturizing and nicotinamide penetration.

[0117]

[Table 11] ¹ Available from Dow Corning ² Available from Rhone Poulenc ³ Available from Rhone Poulenc

In a suitable container, combine the ingredients of Part C and apply the high speed Silverson
Grind with L4R (preferably about 9000-10000 rpm) in a 1 "milling screen for at least 1/2 hour, or until the mixture is homogenous.
Combine the components of the parts and use a Silverson L4R for about 300
Mix in a 2 "emulsion at 0 rpm. Separate the ingredients of Part B and allow the propylparaben to completely dissolve at about 3000-4000 rpm using a Silverson L4R before dissolving completely. Add part B to part A by emulsion screening. Part C is gradually added to Parts A and B while mixing in a 2 "emulsion sorter at about 6000 rpm using a Silverson L4R. Continue mixing until homogenous. (Using a mixing speed of about 6000-8000 rpm), add Part D and then heat to a temperature of about 80 ° C. Add ground wax and heat the mixture until the mixture is homogeneous. Degas the mixture in a vacuum, pour it into a suitable mold, cool the mixture to room temperature and incorporate it into suitable packaging Apply a solid compact emulsion to the skin to reduce greasy shine Reduce fine lines and skin texture.

Example XII-Cosmetic emulsion with long lasting makeup (example of association structure) In a suitable container, a mixed material (part A) is prepared by mixing the following ingredients:

[Table 12] ¹ Trimethylsiloxysilicate available from GE ² Isododecane available from Presperse Using conventional mixing techniques, mix the mixed materials until the MQ resin is dissolved. Process: B. In a suitable container, a mixed material (Part B) is prepared by mixing the following components:

[Table 13] ¹ Available from GE. Using conventional mixing techniques, mix the mixed materials until the SE30 silicone rubber is dissolved. C. A cosmetic emulsion composition containing Part A and Part B is prepared by combining the following ingredients:

[Table 14] ¹ Trade name Centrolex by Central Soya
Available at F.

In a suitable container, combine Part A together with pigment, propylparaben and PM99A and use an Ultra Turrax T25 homogenizer to prepare about 8,
Mix at 000 rpm for about 10 minutes until the mixture is homogeneous (be careful not to ignite PM99A). Add Benton ISD to the cosmetic mixture and add about 8,000
Mix at 0 rpm until the mixture is homogeneous. In a separate container, water, nicotinamide and lecithin are mixed together to form an associated structure and then added to the cosmetic mixture with stirring. Add Laponite XLS to the mixture and mix using a Ross homogenizer at about 3,500 rpm. The mixture of Part B is added to the cosmetic mixture and initially mixed with high shear, preferably 1600 rpm, to promote dispersion using an IKA mixer. Once sufficient dispersion has been achieved,
Reduce the speed of the mixer, preferably to 1,000 rpm, and mix the cosmetic mixture until uniform. The cosmetic mixture is then poured into suitable containers and stoppered tightly, preferably for storage at room temperature. Application of the cosmetic emulsion composition imparts pigment to the skin, improves skin texture, and provides improved skin penetration of nicotinamide.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of front page (81) Designated country EP (AT, BE, CH, CY, DE, DK, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, IE, IT, LU, MC, NL, PT, SE ), OA (BF, BJ, CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GW, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG), AP (GH, GM, KE, LS, MW, SD, SL, SZ, TZ, UG, ZW), EA (AM, AZ, BY, KG, KZ, MD, RU, TJ, TM), AE, AL, AM, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BR, BY, CA, CH, CN, CR, CU, CZ, DE, DK, DM, EE, ES, FI, GB, GD, GE, GH, GM, HR, HU, ID , IL, IN, IS, JP, KE, KG, KP, KR, KZ, LC, LK, LR, LS, LT, LU, LV, MA, MD, MG, MK, MN, MW, MX, NO, (72) Invention NZ, PL, PT, RO, RU, SD, SE, SG, SI, SK, SL, TJ, TM, TR, TT, TZ, UA, UG, UZ, VN, YU, ZA, ZW Jacbovic, David Andrew England, Middlesex, Stains, Cherry, Orchard 35 (72) Inventor Watter, Michael Lee United States of America Ohio, Oceana, California, Road 4159 (72) Inventor El-Nocurie, 2357 F-term (reference) Magda, Cincinnati, Ohio, USA 2357 F-term (reference) 4C083 AA082 AA122 AB051 AB172 AB212 AB222 AB232 AB242 AB442 AC012 AC101 AC111 AC121 AC122 AC172 AC302 AC352 AC392 AC422 AC482 AC542 AC641 AC642 AC662 AC852 AD092 AD152 AD172 AD512 AD572 AD631 AD632 AD642 BB01 BB11 BB51 BB60 CC13 CC14 CC17 DD11 DD31 DD41 EE01 EE12

Claims (10)

[Claims] 1. A useful topical cosmetic composition to improve the permeability of the skin of the vitamin B ₃ compound, composition: a) 0.01% to 50% by weight of vitamin B composition ₃ compound; b) 1% to 90% by weight of the composition, preferably 1% to 80% by weight of the emollient component, 0.1% to 100 wt% of the emollient component, preferably 1% An emollient component comprising an oil that is liquid at ambient temperature of from about 90% by weight; c) a stabilizing system of 0.1% to 80% by weight of the composition, wherein the stabilizing system comprises: i) stable From 0.1% to 90% by weight of the stabilizing system; and ii) from 0.01% to 30% by weight of the stabilizing system, wherein the surfactant is at or below 20C. A stabilizing system having a Krafft point at and forming an associated structure; and d) a composition. Topical cosmetic composition comprising 0.01% to 90% polar solvent. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein the vitamin B ₃ compound is nicotinamide, a derivative of nicotinamide, a non-vasodilating nicotinic ester, and combinations thereof, preferably nicotinamide, tocopherol nicotinate, and combinations thereof. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, which is preferably selected from nicotinamide. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the associative structure is selected from the group consisting of a cylindrical reverse micelle, a lyotropic liquid crystal, and a mixture thereof.
Claims selected from cylindrical inverted micelles, hexagonal liquid crystals, cubic liquid crystals, flaky liquid crystals and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of flaky liquid crystals, inverted hexagonal liquid crystals and mixtures thereof. Item 3. The cosmetic composition according to item 1 or 2. 4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the reverse micelles aggregate to form a network-like spherical structure, extended structure, cylindrical structure, vesicle, filament structure, or a mixture thereof. 5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the association structure comprises 0.1% to 75%, preferably 5% to 65% of the cosmetic composition. 6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the polar solvent has an association structure of 10% to 80%, and the surfactant has an association structure of 30% to 80%. Cosmetic composition. 7. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the polar solvent is selected from the group consisting of water, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alcohol, panthenol and mixtures thereof. Composition. 8. At least 99% of the type of oil used is from 0.1 to 1.5
Cosmetic composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil is selected to have a solubility parameter that does not differ beyond. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1% to 90% by weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 90%.
The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, further comprising 35% by weight of a water-insoluble pigment component. 10. A method of improving the penetration of a vitamin B ₃ compound into the skin by applying a safe and effective amount of the composition of claim 1 to the skin.