WO1999055291A1 - Compositions pour vernis a ongles - Google Patents

Compositions pour vernis a ongles Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999055291A1
WO1999055291A1 PCT/IB1999/000646 IB9900646W WO9955291A1 WO 1999055291 A1 WO1999055291 A1 WO 1999055291A1 IB 9900646 W IB9900646 W IB 9900646W WO 9955291 A1 WO9955291 A1 WO 9955291A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
film
compositions
nail polish
nails
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB1999/000646
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Katherine Eleanor Flynn
Peter Christopher Ellingson
David Harry Melik
Amy Jo Menke
Francisco Antonio Pichardo
Gillian Scott Briggs
David William Walling
Edward Dewey Smith, Iii
Original Assignee
The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by The Procter & Gamble Company filed Critical The Procter & Gamble Company
Priority to AU29527/99A priority Critical patent/AU2952799A/en
Publication of WO1999055291A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999055291A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

  • compositions suitable for cosmetic and/or therapeutic treatment of the nails e.g., nail polishes.
  • the compositions provide films having defined Surface Energy and/or Polarity, and exhibiting improved wear.
  • nail polishes to cosmetically enhance their nails or protect the nails from everyday conditions and stressors.
  • the nail polishes of which the present inventors are aware are deficient in many respects, including their inability to provide long wear.
  • Such nail polishes often exhibit deterioration, particularly in the form of chipping or peeling, in as few as one or two days.
  • Such deterioration is exhibited primarily at the tip of the nail. The occurrence of this deterioration often forces consumers to remove their nail polish soon after original application and reapply additional nail polish to the nails.
  • nail polish compositions which exhibit inadequate wear are those which are easily and completely peeled or stripped off the nails without the use of a solvent.
  • Other nail polish compositions are completely removable with water and, therefore, are not practical for normal use and do not provide long wear under everyday conditions.
  • nail polish compositions which are promoted as having long wear, good adhesion, and/or resistance to chipping. While some nail polish compositions provide better wear than others, a need remains for nail polishes which provide improved wear. It would therefore be desirable to provide nail polish 2
  • compositions having improved wear properties including, for example, improved adhesion to the nail.
  • nail polishes exhibiting Surface Energys and/or Polarities over defined ranges, as described herein, provide enhanced adhesion of nail polish to the nail.
  • the present inventors have further discovered nail polish compositions which form films which provide these properties.
  • the present compositions provide nail polish films exhibiting wear at a superior level to nail polishes of which the present inventors are aware.
  • compositions suitable for application to the nails e.g., as a nail polish, which provide films exhibiting defined surface properties, namely Surface Energys and/or Polarities.
  • the films having these properties exhibit improved wear.
  • compositions having these properties preferably comprise: a) from about 5% to about 20%, by weight of the composition, of film forming cellulosic polymer; b) from about 1.25% to about 8%, by weight of the composition, of film forming polyurethane polymer; c) from about 3% to about 20%, by weight of the composition, of plasticizer; and d) from about 55% to about 90%, by weight of the composition, of volatile, organic solvent.
  • compositions advantageously provide films having a Surface Energy of at least 42.5 mJ/m 2 (e.g., 42.5 to 43.5), preferably greater than 43.5 mJ/m 2 .
  • compositions alternatively or additionally advantageously provide films having a Polarity of from about 0.24 to about 0.31.
  • the invention also relates to films formed from the compositions, and methods of treating the nails comprising application of the composition to the nails.
  • the present invention can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of any of the required or optional components and/or limitations described herein.
  • compositions herein are trade names for materials including, but not limited to, polymers and optional components.
  • the inventors herein do not intend to be limited by materials under a certain trade name.
  • Equivalent materials e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalog (reference) number
  • Active and other ingredients useful herein may be categorized or described herein by their cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. It is to be understood that the active and other ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or operate via more than one mode of action. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit an ingredient to the particularly stated application or applications listed.
  • compositions of the present invention are suitable for application to animal nails, including human nails.
  • compositions of the present invention are useful, for example, for providing aesthetic, cosmetic, therapeutic, and/or prophylactic benefits to the nails.
  • nail polish is a 4
  • animal nail means a keratinaceous plate present at the upper surface of the end of a finger or toe of a primate or the analogous claw, hoof or the like of other animals.
  • compositions are suitable for use in contact with animal nails without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like in regard to a given animal species.
  • Preferred compositions are those suitable for application to human nails.
  • compositions herein may also be used for application to synthetic (artificial) nails.
  • Film-forming polymers (a) and (b) comprise one or more film-forming, solvent-borne, cellulosic polymers and polyurethane polymers.
  • the film-forming polymers herein are solvent-borne polymers.
  • solvent-borne with reference to a film-forming polymer, means that the polymer was prepared under substantially anhydrous conditions and is preferably added to the composition which it comprises as a substantially anhydrous solution (or other mixture, whether heterogeneous or homogeneous, preferably homogeneous).
  • a solvent-borne composition means that the composition comprises one or more organic solvents and is substantially anhydrous, preferably comprising less than 2% water, more preferably less than 1% water, most preferably less than 0.25% water. Solvent-borne polymers and compositions are preferred.
  • film-forming polymer means a homopolymer, copolymer, or mixture thereof which, as recognized in the polymer arts, forms an adherent continuum from a composition when applied to a substrate (in the present invention, nails). See, e.g.. Polymer Colloids, Robert M. Fitch, ed., New York: Plenum Press, pp. 173-183 (1971).
  • copolymer includes linear, block, branched, graft, comb, and star copolymers.
  • the film-forming polymers herein can be selected from nonionic, ionic (anionic or cationic), and amphoteric (including zwitterionic) polymers.
  • the film-forming cellulosic polymers may be selected from polymers derived from cellulose such as are known in the art, including but not limited to cellulose esters.
  • Preferred cellulosic polymers are nitrocellulose, nitrocellulose esters such as cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate, and mixtures thereof. More preferred are nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate butyrate, cellulose acetate propionate, and mixtures thereof. Nitrocellulose polymers are most preferred.
  • nitrocellulose polymers are nitrocellulose RS types (nitrogen content of 11.5-12.2%) of Hercules, such as nitrocellulose - RS l A second, - RS % second, - RS 1/8 second, - RS 1/16 second or the like.
  • the compositions hereof preferably comprise a total of from about 5% to about 20%, more preferably from about 6% to about 20%, even more preferably from about 10% to about 17%, most preferably from about 13% to about 16%, cellulosic polymer.
  • compositions also comprise a film-forming polyurethane.
  • Preferred polyurethanes are selected from aromatic polyether polyurethanes, aliphatic polyether polyurethanes, aromatic polyester polyurethanes, aliphatic polyester polyurethanes, aromatic polycaprolactam polyurethanes, aliphatic polycaprolactam polyurethanes, urethane acryl copolymers, siloxane-urethane copolymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • aromatic polyether polyurethanes More preferred are aromatic polyether polyurethanes, aliphatic polyether polyurethanes, aromatic polyester polyurethanes, aliphatic polyester polyurethanes, aromatic polycaprolactam polyurethanes, aliphatic polycaprolactam polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Aromatic polyether polyurethanes, aliphatic polyether polyurethanes, aromatic polyester polyurethanes, aliphatic polyester polyurethanes and mixtures thereof are even more preferred.
  • Aliphatic polyether polyurethanes, aliphatic polyester polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof are most preferred. 6
  • Preferred solvent-borne polyurethanes include Sanres EX519 ® , Sanres EX499 ® (hexylene glycol/neopentyl glycol/IPDI [isophorone diisocyanate] copolymer), Sanres 12711 ® , Sanres 6010 , and Sanres 6012 ® (all of which are available from B.F. Goodrich).
  • the most preferred polyurethane is Sanres EX519 ® .
  • Preferred polyurethanes are those having a number average molecular weight of from about 10,000 to about 80,000, more preferably from about 15,000 to about 50,000, most preferably from about 20,000 to about 35,000.
  • the present compositions preferably comprise a total of at least about 1.25% film forming polyurethane, e.g., at least about 2%, 3%, 3.5% or 5% film-forming polyurethane.
  • the present compositions preferably comprise a total of from about 1.25% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 4%, film-forming polyurethane.
  • compositions hereof further comprise one or more plasticizers such as are known in the art.
  • the plasticizer is generally used in an amount to plasticize the film forming polymers so that the nail polish has acceptable flexibility on the nail.
  • the compositions preferably comprise from about 3% to about 20%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%), even more preferably from about 6% to about 15%, most preferably from about 6% to about 10%, plasticizer.
  • Preferred plasticizer systems are those which reduce brittleness and increase toughness of the nail polish films and which do not inordinately increase viscosity of the nail polish at the level used.
  • Preferred plasticizers are selected from the group consisting of polar plasticizers comprising epoxy linkages, linkages comprising a nitrogen atom such as amide, imide, urea and/or urethane linkages, including polar resin plasticizers comprising the foregoing linkages, polyesters, polyester acids (e.g., di- and tri-acids), phthalates, camphor and mixtures thereof.
  • the compositions hereof preferably comprise a plasticizer selected from the group consisting of polar plasticizers comprising amide linkages, polyesters, polyester acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of suitable plasticizers are alkyl toluene-sulfonamides, e.g., ethyl toluene-sulfonamide (e.g., Uniplex PX-45 commercially available from 7
  • polyesters e.g., Uniplex 670P (commercially available from Unitex Chemical Corp. of Greensboro, NC); polyester acids, e.g., C 3 -C 20 , preferably C 4 -C 12 , more preferably C 6 -C 10 polyester acids (including di- and tri-acids), such as polyester sebaceates (e.g., Paraplex G-25®, commercially available from C.P. Hall, Bedford
  • polyester adipates e.g., Paraplex G-50®, commercially available from C.P. Hall
  • polyester adipates e.g., Paraplex G-50®, commercially available from C.P. Hall
  • phthalates e.g., diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, and dioctyl phthalate
  • nonionic surfactant polymers e.g., tartrates, (e.g., diethyl tartrate, and dibutyl tartrate, phosphates (e.g., diethyl phosphate and dibutyl phosphate) and glycols (e.g., tetraethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexoate, commercially available from
  • Preferred plasticizers have a number average Molecular Weight of about 10,000 or less.
  • Preferred compositions are essentially free of, and preferably contain no formaldehyde resins.
  • Plasticizer mixtures comprising at least one alkyl toluene-sulfonamide (e.g., Ci- o, preferably C -C alkyl toluene-sulfonamides) are preferred.
  • a blend of ethyl toluene-sulfonamide and at least one other plasticizer is most preferred.
  • Preferred compositions comprise from about 3% to about 8% (more preferably from about 4% to about 7%, most preferably from about 4% to about 6%) alkyl toluene-sulfonamide and a total of from about 0.1 % to about 6% (more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 3%) of one or more other plasticizers.
  • Preferred other plasticizers are polyesters, polyester acids, camphor, phthalates, and mixtures thereof.
  • Particularly preferred compositions comprise a plasticizer selected from the group consisting of polyesters, polyester acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the group consisting of polyester acids.
  • Polyester adipates are preferred polyester acids.
  • Such plasticizers are preferably used in an amount of from 0.1% to about 6%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 3%.
  • compositions of the present invention further comprise a carrier comprising a liquid diluent.
  • a carrier comprising a liquid diluent.
  • Suitable diluent systems are those which solubilize (i.e., dissolve) the polymers and dry in a reasonable time on nails.
  • the liquid diluent comprises one or more volatile, organic solvents. Preferred volatile organic solvents have a boiling point at latm of from about
  • Preferred organic solvents are selected from alcohols, esters, ketones, aromatic hydrocarbons, aliphatic hydrocarbons, ethers, and mixtures thereof (more preferably C,-C, 0 , most preferably C 2 -C 4 ). Alcohols and esters are more preferred, esters being most preferred. Preferred alcohols are monohydric. Preferred monohydric alcohols are ethanol, wo-propanol, and w-propanol. Preferred esters are butyl-, ethyl-, isopropyl- and propyl-acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters are ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • suitable organic solvents are benzyl alcohol, amyl acetate, acetone, heptane, iso- butyl acetate, toluene, methyl acetate, wo-butanol, «-amyl alcohol, «-butyl alcohol, hexane, and methyl ethyl ketone.
  • compositions preferably comprise from about 55% to about 90%), more preferably from about 62% to about 78%, most preferably from about 66%) to about 74%, volatile, organic solvent.
  • Optional Components preferably comprise from about 55% to about 90%), more preferably from about 62% to about 78%, most preferably from about 66%) to about 74%, volatile, organic solvent.
  • compositions of the present invention may additionally comprise optional components such as are known in the art to enhance their performance as a nail polish.
  • optional components such as are known in the art to enhance their performance as a nail polish.
  • antifoams, buffers, chelating agents, coalescents, dispersing agents, dyes, epoxies, fillers, pigments, preservatives, resins, other film forming polymers, therapeutic and/or prophylactic agents, thickeners, wax additives, wetting agents, and the like can be included in the compositions herein.
  • Such optional components may be dispersed, solubilized, or otherwise mixed into the composition. These components may be added to the compositions hereof singularly or in admixture provided they do not substantially reduce the wear properties of the compositions. Non-limiting examples of optional components are given below.
  • Suitable pigments are inorganic or organic pigments known as, for example, the FD&C and D&C colors, lakes, and iron oxides. Such pigments are disclosed in the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, First Edition, 1988.
  • Organic pigments include, for example, D and C Red, Nos. 10, 1 1, 12, and 13, D and C Red No. 7, D and C Red Nos. 5 and 6, D and C Red Nos. 30 and 34, lacquers such as D and C Yellow No. 5 and D and C Red No. 2, and guanine.
  • Inorganic pigments include, for example, titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, brown iron oxide, and the red iron oxides.
  • Preferred compositions comprise from 0% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, of pigment and/or dye. More preferably, the compositions comprise from about 0.1%> to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.25% to about 5%, and most preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, by weight of the composition, of pigment and/or dye.
  • Preservatives are examples of the composition, of pigment and/or dye.
  • preservatives such as are known in the art may be added to the present compositions to prevent, inhibit, or retard microbial growth in the composition.
  • Preferred preservatives include benzophenone, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, benzoates, sorbates, sodium dehydroacetate, l-(3-chloroallyl)-3,5,7-triaza-l-azoniaadamantane chloride (which may be obtained commercially as Quaternium-15® from Dow Chemical Co., Midland, MI). Benzophenone is preferred.
  • compositions preferably comprise from 0% to about 0.1 % of preservative.
  • One or more resins may be added to the present compositions, e.g., to promote adhesion, to strengthen the film forming polymers, and/or to increase gloss.
  • the resins for example, epoxy resins such as toluene-sulfonamide-epoxy, can also plasticize the composition.
  • suitable resins include epoxies and polyacrylics including Polytex E75® (toluene-sulfonamide-epoxy) and NX-55 (both commercially available from Estron Chemical, Inc., Calvert City, KY), Acryloid 10
  • compositions comprise both epoxy and polyacrylic resin.
  • a composition preferably comprises from 0% to about 15%), more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 6%, most preferably from about 1% to about 5%, resin by weight of the composition.
  • slip aids may be added, e.g., to improve surface friction, water resistance, abrasion resistance, and mechanical properties.
  • Slip aids which may be used include wax additives including, for example, animal, fossil, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic waxes. Suitable wax additives include beeswax, carob, candelilla, ozocerite, polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, polypropylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene (commercially available as Teflon from DuPont, Wilmington, DE), nylons, polyamides, and materials containing silicone such as dimethicone and copolymers of polyether and polysiloxane.
  • compositions preferably comprise from 0% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 0.50%, and most preferably from about 0.001%) to about 0.05% of slip aid.
  • One or more therapeutic and/or prophylactic agents may be added to the present compositions for the further care and protection of the nails.
  • Stabilizers One or more stabilizers may be added to the compositions herein, e.g., to prevent pigment from settling and to achieve desired application properties.
  • Preferred stabilizers include clays, e.g., organically modified bentonites and hectorites such as stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite (commercially available from Rheox, Inc. of Hightstown, NJ).
  • the present compositions preferably comprise from 0.25% to about 3%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, and even more preferably from about 1% to about 2% of stabilizer, by weight of the composition. 11
  • compositions hereof may contain one or more additional film-forming polymers such as are known in the art, e.g., polyacryls, polymethacryls, styrene- acryl copolymers, polystyrenes, polysiloxanes, polyesters, silicone-acryl copolymers, vinyl acetate polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • additional film-forming polymers such as are known in the art, e.g., polyacryls, polymethacryls, styrene- acryl copolymers, polystyrenes, polysiloxanes, polyesters, silicone-acryl copolymers, vinyl acetate polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Solvent-borne or water- borne polymers may be used, however solvent-borne polymers are preferred.
  • compositions may contain up to about 10%, e.g., up to about 5% or up to about 4%, of additional film-forming polymer.
  • Method of Making and Using The compositions of the present invention can be made using conventional formulation and mixing techniques.
  • a layer of nail polish may be prepared by standard application of the composition to the nail using a standard brush-applicator as is commonly utilized in the art (or equivalent thereof) and drying, that is, removing sufficient liquid diluent (through evaporation of volatiles, most preferably at ambient pressures and temperatures), to form a substantially dry layer, i.e., a layer which feels dry, smooth, and not tacky when it is touched with a human fingertip.
  • One or more layers of the composition may be applied to the nail. Generally from 1-4 layers, and preferably from 1-2 layers, is applied to the nail. Typically, on each application about 25 mg of the composition is applied per nail and allowed to dry to form a layer about 35 microns thick.
  • compositions may be used as a clear coat (non-colored), color coat, basecoat, topcoat, or other coating on the nail. Accordingly, other nail treatment compositions such as are known in the art, including nail polishes, may be applied to the nail in addition to the compositions hereof. However, the compositions hereof are preferably used as the sole nail polish composition, e.g., as a clear coat or color coat.
  • compositions of the present invention may be presented to a user or potential user (hereinafter “users") of the composition in association with information which informs such users that use of the composition will provide one or more benefits, including, but not limited to, high gloss, good coverage, and/or wear properties such as resistance to chipping, peeling, scratching or denting, and 12
  • Such information may also include instructions for use to obtain such benefits, e.g., including the method steps described above.
  • in association with information it is meant that the information is either directly printed on the container for the composition itself (including direct printing on the container per se or indirectly via a label or the like affixed to the container), or presented in a different manner including, but not limited to, a brochure, print advertisement, electronic advertisement and/or other advertisement, so as to communicate the information to a consumer of the composition.
  • Such information may accordingly comprise words, pictures, and the like.
  • compositions provide films having defined surface properties, namely Surface Energys and/or Polarities. Without intending to be bound by theory, it is believed that the films having these Surface Energys and/or Polarities exhibit improved adhesion to the nail, which contributes to improved wear.
  • compositions advantageously provide films having a Surface Energy of at least 42.5 mJ/m 2 (e.g., 42.5 to 43.5), preferably greater than 43.5 mJ/m 2 .
  • compositions alternatively or additionally advantageously provide films having a Polarity of from about 0.24 to about 0.31, preferably from about 0.245 to about 0.305, more preferably from about 0.25 to about 0.305, even more preferably from about 0.26 to about 0.30, most preferably from about 0.27 to about 0.29. 13
  • the composition comprises a film-forming polymer and a suitable carrier comprising a volatile, organic solvent, and provides a film having a Surface Energy greater than 43.5 mJ/m , preferably further having a Polarity of from about 0.24 to about 0.31.
  • the composition comprises a polyurethane film-forming polymer and a suitable carrier comprising a volatile, organic solvent, and provides a film having a Surface Energy of from 42.5 to 43.5 mJ/m , preferably further having a Polarity of from about 0.245 to about 0.305.
  • the composition comprises a cellulosic film-forming polymer, a polyurethane film-forming polymer and a suitable carrier comprising a volatile, organic solvent, and provides a film having a Polarity of from 0.245 to 0.305, preferably from 0.25 to 0.305, more preferably from about 0.26 to about 0.30, most preferably from about 0.27 to about 0.29.
  • a Polarity of from 0.245 to 0.305, preferably from 0.25 to 0.305, more preferably from about 0.26 to about 0.30, most preferably from about 0.27 to about 0.29.
  • Actual Surface Energy and Polarity are determined according to the following method.
  • a platinum plate or a cover slip coated with a dried film of the test nail polish is suspended from a balance which measures weight in grams to ten thousandths of a gram.
  • Each test liquid (separately, water and methylene iodide) has its own glass reservoir which is placed on top of a motorized platform allowing the test liquid to be brought into contact with the platinum plate or solid sample of interest, which is suspended from the balance overhead.
  • the liquids are each introduced to a reservoir at a depth of about 1 cm.
  • the surface tension of each liquid in its respective reservoir is measured and checked versus literature values.
  • the "Plate Method” is selected from the Kriiss software. This method raises the platform until it determines the location of the plate-liquid interface (determined by the platform height at which the balance detects an increase of 0.001 gram). The platform then further raises 1 mm past this point, then returns to the height denoting the interface. At this point, one balance reading is taken each second for 10 seconds.
  • the software displays the surface tension calculated by:
  • F wetting force (measured by balance);
  • L w wetted length (the perimeter of the plate); and
  • ⁇ contact angle (assigned a value of 0 for liquids against platinum).
  • Glass cover slips are attached to a level surface with Scotch ® tape and the nail polish to be tested (test nail polish) is applied to one half of the top side of the cover slip in a similar manner to standard application of one layer of a nail polish composition to the nail (to form a smooth, essentially uniformly thick coat, about 40 microns in thickness once dried).
  • the test nail polish is allowed to dry at ambient temperature for at least one hour.
  • the cover slip is then turned over and once again attached to the level surface with Scotch ® tape in such a manner that the polish does 15
  • test nail polish is applied to the second side of the cover slip in a similar manner and allowed to dry at ambient temperature for at least one hour.
  • the test nail polish is then further dried in a convection oven at 87°F for 24 hours.
  • Six cover slips are prepared in the same manner for each polish to be tested. Measurements are taken on the prepared slips about 24 hours after application of the polish to the second side of the cover slip.
  • each nail polish film is measured using a digital vernier calipers to the nearest 0.01 mm. These measurements are used to determine the perimeter (P) (the "wetted length” in accordance with the nomenclature used by Kriiss) according to the following equation:
  • the width and thickness are inputs into the Kriiss software, which performs calculation of the perimeter following the above formula.
  • a prepared slip is mounted in a holding clip and suspended from the balance.
  • the Kriiss software controlling the instrument raises the motorized platform holding the probe liquid reservoir (platform speed of 1.2 mm / min) until the balance detects a change in weight of 0.001 g.
  • the height corresponding to this weight is denoted the interface height.
  • the platform speed is then decreased to 60% of its original speed, and data collection (readings from the balance) is commenced.
  • the platform stops waits one second, then reverses direction, collecting data throughout, until the sample pulls completely free of the probe liquid.
  • the data collected as the platform rises is used to determine the advancing contact angle, while that data collected as the platform recedes is used to determine the receding contact angle.
  • the software calculates both of these angles by performing a linear regression to each the "advancing" data and "receding" data plotted as force 16
  • the total force measured by the balance is a sum of the wetting force (F as given in equation (2) above) and the buoyancy force, which is a function of immersion depth.
  • the buoyancy force is given by the slope of the linear regression and the wetting force is given by the y-intercept.
  • the three advancing water contact angle values are averaged, and the three methylene iodide advancing contact angle values are also averaged. These average contact angles for each of the two probe liquids are used to determine the Surface Energy of the substrate.
  • Equation 4 the known liquid surface tension as well as the dispersive and polar components for each probe liquid, and the experimentally determined contact angle, a system of 2 equations and 2 unknowns is obtained. Solving equations 4 and 5 simultaneously gives ⁇ and ⁇ , the dispersive and polar components of the test nail polish film's Surface Energy, respectively. These two values sum to give the total Surface Energy, ⁇ ⁇ ..
  • the Polarity, x p is calculated by equation (1), above.
  • compositions hereof have rheological properties as defined by Yield Value and Plastic Viscosity.
  • rheological properties are influenced by the level of solids and diluents present in the composition, including the level of any thickeners.
  • Plastic Viscosity tends to increase with increasing solid level, decreasing diluent level, and increasing thickener level.
  • the Yield Value is preferably from about 0.3 Pascals ("Pa") to about 3.0 Pa, more preferably about 0.75 Pa to about 2.5 Pa.
  • the Plastic Viscosity is preferably about 600 centipoise ("cP") or less, more preferably about 500 cP or less, even more preferably from about 200 cP to about 500 cP, most preferably from about 300 cP to about 450 cP.
  • cP centipoise
  • These rheological properties are measured using a controlled stress rheometer in a shear rate ramp.
  • a Haake Model RSI 00 rheometer (or equivalent thereof) can be used, with a 60 mm parallel plate geometry set to operate with a 0.5 mm gap. Procedural details such as calibration, zero point 18
  • ⁇ shear rate (measured, 1 /seconds)
  • Young's Modulus is a function of the type and level of cellulosic film forming polymer, polyurethane film forming polymer, and/or non-epoxy containing plasticizer in the composition.
  • the nail polish to be tested is drawn down on a flat surface (e.g. a 10 inch x 11 inch glass plate) covered with a double layer of Teflon ® sheet (e.g., Bytac VF-81, commercially available Trom Norton Performance Plastics Corporation of Akron, Ohio).
  • Teflon ® sheet e.g., Bytac VF-81, commercially available Trom Norton Performance Plastics Corporation of Akron, Ohio.
  • An abrasive emery board is used to scratch the Teflon surface lightly on the Young's Modulus is determined by tensile testing of strips of the nail polish film as follows: (a) Sample preparation:
  • the nail polish to be tested is drawn down on a flat surface (e.g. a 10 inch x 11 inch glass plate) covered with a double layer of Teflon ® sheet (e.g., Bytac VF-81, commercially available from Norton Performance Plastics Corporation of Akron, Ohio).
  • Teflon ® sheet e.g., Bytac VF-81, commercially available from Norton Performance Plastics Corporation of Akron, Ohio.
  • An abrasive emery board is used to scratch the Teflon ® surface lightly on the sides, outlining a rectangular draw down area so the wet sample adheres temporarily to the Teflon ® sheet while it dries (the rectangular draw down area is defined by long sides approximately the inside width of a drawdown bar and both ends).
  • draw down a nail polish wet film e.g. a 10 inch x 11 inch glass plate
  • the bird applicator bar draws a 3 inch wide coating of polish and the overall length of the bar is 4.5 inches.
  • Such wet film applicators are available from coatings test equipment suppliers such as the Paul N. Gardner Company, Inc., Pompano Beach, Florida. Place the coated substrate in a 87 °F convection oven for five minutes.
  • precision film strip cutter such as a JDC Precision Sample Cutter (available from Paul N. Gardner Company, Inc. of Pompano Beach, Fla.) (or equivalent thereof which ensures the edges are the same width across the whole sample length, and smooth so as not to start a tear or other flaw/weak point in the film).
  • JDC Precision Sample Cutter available from Paul N. Gardner Company, Inc. of Pompano Beach, Fla.
  • the strips are then returned to the 87 °F convection oven until they are required for testing.
  • the mechanical properties of the film strips are measured on a calibrated Instron 4500 series apparatus (or equivalent thereof) using Instron Series IX software for Windows (Merlin version) (or equivalent thereof). Both the equipment and software are commercially available from Instron Corp., Canton, MA. In the test, the Instron measures the force as a function of applied tensile strain. A 100 N static 21
  • load cell a 2.0 inch gauge length, at a crosshead speed of not less than 2 and not greater than 20 inches travel/minute is used.
  • Pneumatic action jaws at a minimum 40 PSI air pressure are used with 1 inch x 0.5 inch smooth rubber coated faces to hold the test film (available from Instron Corp., Canton, MA).
  • the Series IX software is automatically programmed to report strain
  • the Instron is calibrated and checked at the start of the experiment with dead weights to ensure accuracy.
  • Appropriate data for the film for example, thickness, width, gauge length, and sample number
  • a film strip is loaded into the grips, being careful not to damage the film while loading, especially at the grips.
  • the taped ends of the film are used to provide a reinforcement for the part of the film within the grips. Avoid direct contact with the films to eliminate possible contamination from skin oils which may influence results. In order to present a film exactly parallel to the direction of the pull, with no wrinkles, use of a simple guide may be necessary. Begin the tensile test and run until the film breaks.
  • compositions of Examples 1-19 are suitable for use as nail polish compositions.
  • the mixtures should only be prepared under the direction of experienced operators who have been trained in safe practices for milling or otherwise mixing volatile solvents. Use only safely installed, wired, ventilated, temperature controlled and monitored equipment.
  • Blend the solvent, nitrocellulose and plasticizer together at room temperature or below until homogeneous by combining in a jar or other suitable container a portion of nitrocellulose (about 1/3 of the nitrocellulose needed to prepare a batch of nail polish), a portion of the total plasticizer (about one half the plasticizer), and sufficient solvent to reduce the viscosity to less than about 1 ,000 cP (about 50-75% 25 of the available solvent) and shaking on a paint shaker until homogeneous, about V2 hour.
  • An industrial paint shaker such as are commonly used to shake paint cans can be used (available from Paul N. Gardner Company, Inc. of Pompano Beach, Florida).
  • an excess of ingredients can be used to prepare the slurry.
  • Mill until the average particle size is less than about 5 microns, determined using a A Horiba LA-910 particle size analyzer equipped with a fraction cell holder and cell (available from Horiba, Ltd, Irvine CA, USA). Transfer the slurry to a jar or other suitable container and store until needed for preparation of a nail polish.
  • Suitable pigment slurries are typically, alternatively prepared by a pigment supplier as a raw material for sale to the cosmetics industry.
  • a pigment supplier is Kirker Enterprises, Inc. of Paterson, NJ.
  • the pigment slurries contain the ground (i.e., milled) pigment in solvent with clay, nitrocellulose polymer and plasticizer, the pigment being ground to a particle size of about 1-10 microns average.
  • Preparation of nail polish Combine the balance of the solvent, plasticizer, mica and other nail polish ingredients exclusive of the pigment/clay slurry in a jar or other suitable container. Add an appropriate amount (formula proportion) of the pigment slurry to this mixture. Seal and shake the container on a paint shaker for about 30 minutes.
  • suitable storage containers e.g., small nail polish bottles, at or below room temperature.
  • the mixtures should only be prepared under the direction of experienced operators who have been trained in safe practices for milling or otherwise mixing volatile solvents. Use only safely installed, wired, ventilated, temperature controlled and monitored equipment.
  • An industrial paint shaker such as are commonly used to shake paint cans can be used (available from Paul N. Gardner Company, Inc. of Pompano Beach, Florida).
  • Viscosity can be adjusted, e.g., by adding more clay (such as milled in solvents at ca. 4%-8% clay solids) (to increase viscosity), or by adding more solvent (to lower viscosity), followed by paint shaking to blend.
  • suitable storage containers e.g., small nail polish bottles, at or below room temperature.
  • compositions are independently contiguously applied to human fingernails using a standard brush-applicator.
  • a nail polish layer is allowed to form by drying under ambient conditions for a period of five minutes. Then a second layer is applied. The nail polish is allowed to dry for at least several minutes to form a wear-resistant film.
  • Nail polishes of Examples 16-19 are prepared in the manner described for

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions utiles en tant qu'agents cosmétiques ou thérapeutiques destinés aux ongles. Ces compositions forment des films possédant une énergie superficielle d'au moins 42,5 mJ/m2 (par exemple 42,5 à 43,5), de préférence supérieure à 43,5 mJ/m2. En outre ou alternativement, ces compositions forment avantageusement des films dont la polarité est comprise entre 0,24 et environ 0,31. Ces compositions et films sont notamment utiles en tant que vernis à ongles dotés d'une résistance accrue. Des compositions préférées contiennent en pourcentages pondéraux de la composition, environ 5 à environ 20 % d'un polymère cellulosique formateur de film, environ 1,25 à environ 8 % d'un polymère polyuréthanne formateur de film, environ 3 à environ 20 % d'un plastifiant, et environ 55 à 90 % d'un solvant organique volatil. L'invention concerne également des films formés à partir de ces compositions, ainsi que des procédés de traitement des ongles, consistant à appliquer ces compositions sur les ongles.
PCT/IB1999/000646 1998-04-24 1999-04-12 Compositions pour vernis a ongles WO1999055291A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AU29527/99A AU2952799A (en) 1998-04-24 1999-04-12 Nail polish compositions

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US8302098P 1998-04-24 1998-04-24
US60/083,020 1998-04-24

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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002043676A1 (fr) * 2000-11-29 2002-06-06 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Produits de soins pour les ongles
EP1333791A1 (fr) * 2000-11-16 2003-08-13 Avon Products, Inc. Compositions cosmetiques contenant un polyurethanne
WO2004087079A1 (fr) * 2003-03-28 2004-10-14 E.I. Dupont De Nemours And Company Composition de vernis a ongle et son procede de fabrication
US10045928B2 (en) * 2016-09-29 2018-08-14 Mycone Dental Supply Company, Inc. Non-aqueous peelable nail polish
US10842729B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2020-11-24 Living Proof, Inc. Color protectant compositions
US10987300B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2021-04-27 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
US11622929B2 (en) 2016-03-08 2023-04-11 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5290543A (en) * 1991-04-24 1994-03-01 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Long wearing nail enamel topcoat and related methods
EP0593959A1 (fr) * 1992-10-13 1994-04-27 Hüttenes-Albertus Chemische-Werke GmbH Agent liant pour vernis à ongles aqueux
US5676935A (en) * 1993-09-28 1997-10-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an epoxidized oil as plasticizer

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5290543A (en) * 1991-04-24 1994-03-01 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Long wearing nail enamel topcoat and related methods
EP0593959A1 (fr) * 1992-10-13 1994-04-27 Hüttenes-Albertus Chemische-Werke GmbH Agent liant pour vernis à ongles aqueux
US5676935A (en) * 1993-09-28 1997-10-14 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing an epoxidized oil as plasticizer

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1333791A1 (fr) * 2000-11-16 2003-08-13 Avon Products, Inc. Compositions cosmetiques contenant un polyurethanne
EP1333791A4 (fr) * 2000-11-16 2005-04-13 Avon Prod Inc Compositions cosmetiques contenant un polyurethanne
WO2002043676A1 (fr) * 2000-11-29 2002-06-06 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Produits de soins pour les ongles
WO2004087079A1 (fr) * 2003-03-28 2004-10-14 E.I. Dupont De Nemours And Company Composition de vernis a ongle et son procede de fabrication
US11622929B2 (en) 2016-03-08 2023-04-11 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
US10045928B2 (en) * 2016-09-29 2018-08-14 Mycone Dental Supply Company, Inc. Non-aqueous peelable nail polish
US10842729B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2020-11-24 Living Proof, Inc. Color protectant compositions
US10987300B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2021-04-27 Living Proof, Inc. Long lasting cosmetic compositions
US11707426B2 (en) 2017-09-13 2023-07-25 Living Proof, Inc. Color protectant compositions

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