Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

• the invention relates to a method for the cold production of hair dye preparations, preferably coloring creams, in which surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions are used.
• e.g. Oil-in-water type creams are usually used to adjust the viscosity of fatty alcohols.
• the emulsions are produced by the hot process, i.e. the components are mixed above the melting point of the highest melting component and then slowly cooled with intensive homogenization.
• it is desirable to produce such preparations cold for example using the known PIT or microemulsion technology.
• the object of the invention was therefore to provide a process for the cold production of hair dye preparations, in particular creams of the O / W type, by means of which lamellar gels with special storage stability can also be produced.
• the invention relates to a process for the preparation of hair dye preparations with increased viscosity, in which aqueous surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions are mixed with oil components and hair dyes.
• aqueous surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions preferably fatty alcohol microdispersions
• surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions preferably fatty alcohol microdispersions
• the dispersions to be used in the process according to the invention can contain fatty alcohols of the formula (I)
• R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
• Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol alcohol, linolenyl alcohol alcohol, linolenyl alcohol alcohol, linolenyl alcohol alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols.
• the fatty alcohol dispersions to be used in the process according to the invention can contain anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
• anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ester sulfates, in particular hydroxyl ether sulfates, in particular hydroxyl ether sulfate, especially lauric acid sulfate, ) sulfates, fatty acid amide (etf ⁇ er) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl s
• anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized A!
• nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
• Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
• amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
• the surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds. With regard to the structure and manufacture of these substances, reference is made to relevant reviews, for example J.Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), “Catalysts, Tenside und Mineralöladditive ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217.
• the proportion of surfactants in the fatty alcohol dispersions can be 0.1 to 10 and preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight.
• the fatty alcohol dispersions can be produced, for example, by the microdispersion process.
• Microdispersions are optically isotropic, thermodynamically stable systems that contain a water-insoluble oil component (here: fatty alcohol), dispersants - preferably alkyl glucosides - and water.
• a water-insoluble oil component here: fatty alcohol
• dispersants - preferably alkyl glucosides - and water.
• the clear or transparent appearance of the microdispersions is a consequence of the small particle size of the dispersed emulsion droplets.
• Dispersions are preferably used which have a particle size of less than 50 ⁇ m, in particular less than 20 ⁇ m and particularly preferably less than 10 ⁇ m.
• Ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons Ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons.
• direct dyes e.g. from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as e.g. under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Picramic acid and Rodol 9 R known compounds and 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1, 2 , 3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, (N-2,3-dihydroxypropyl-2-nitro-4-trifluoromethyl) aminobenzene and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene -hydrochloride.
• Naturally occurring dyes such as henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root can also be added to the emulsions.
• oxidation dyes consisting of developer and coupler components can also be added to the emulsions.
• Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are examples of developer components used.
• Special representatives include p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazolon-5 and 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1, 4-aminobenzene and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine.
• M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazones, m-aminophenols and pyridine derivatives are generally used as coupler components.
• Suitable coupler substances are, in particular, 1-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1, 5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1-phenyl -3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol , 2-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine and 2,6-diaminopyridine.
• the hair colors can be present in amounts of 0.1 to 15, preferably 0.5 to 10 and in particular 1 to 5% by weight, based on the hair dye preparations.
• the hair dye preparations contain, in addition to the surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions, polymeric thickeners, such as e.g. Polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (e.g. Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), Polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
• the polymers can be used in amounts of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the hair dye preparations.
• surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions it is also possible to produce hair dye preparations in the form of lamellar gels by cold means, ie at temperatures in the range from 18 to 25 ° C.
• Another object of the invention therefore relates to the use of surfactant fatty alcohol dispersions, preferably fatty alcohol microdispersions, as consistency agents for the production of hair dye preparations, preferably O / W dye creams, in which they contain in amounts of 10 to 70 and preferably 25 to 35% by weight could be.
• Other auxiliaries and additives preferably fatty alcohol microdispersions
• the hair dye preparations according to the invention are preferably O / W creams which, as further auxiliaries and additives, co-emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, stabilizers, further consistency agents, electrolyte salts, cation polymers, silicone compounds, biogenic active substances, antidandruff agents, film formers, preservatives , Hydrotropes, solubilizers, UV light protection filters, perfume oils and the like can contain.
• the surfactants contained in the fatty alcohol dispersions which act as dispersants there, can also serve as emulsifiers in the final preparations.
• other surfactants or co-emulsifiers can also be added to the hair dye preparations, such as:
• alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs
• polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable;
• partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C6 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside - glucoside) and polyglucosides (eg cellulose);
• Polyalkylene glycols The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures, the middle of which Degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 20 24 051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
• C ⁇ / i ⁇ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
• glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable.
• the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
• Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
• Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
• Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
• betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for
• fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
• Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
• Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ / i ⁇ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
• ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
• Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
• quaternary emulsifiers are also suitable, those of the esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
• Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
• Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
• partial glycerides are particularly suitable as consistency givers.
• a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
• Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers such as e.g.
• Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amidomethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
• cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
• dihaloalkylene such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane
• cationic guar gum such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
• quaternized ammonium salt polymers e.g
• Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which are both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
• Typical examples of fats are glycerides; waxes include beeswax, carnauba wax, candeliila wax, montan wax, paraffin wax or microwaxes, optionally in combination with hydrophilic waxes, for example cetylstearyl alcohol or partial glycerides.
• Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate can be used as stabilizers.
• Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamins.
• Climbazole, octopirox and zinc pyrethione can be used as antidandruff agents.
• Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaterniert.es chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.
• UV light protection filters are organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
• UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
• esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
• esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomethyl salicylic acid;
• benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
• Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyltriazone.
• Propane-1,3-dione e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.
• UV-A filters such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3-
• UV-A filters 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.
• the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
• insoluble pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate are also suitable for this purpose.
• the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
• secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are superoxide dismutase, tocopherols (vitamin E) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C). Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
• Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
• Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are
• Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• Lower alkyl glucosides in particular those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• Aminosugars such as glucamine.
• Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid.
• Perfume oils include extracts from flowers (lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway seeds, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelica, Celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), woods (sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce , Fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
• Animal raw materials such as musk, civet and castoreum are also suitable.
• Ambroxan, eugenol, isoeugenol, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, citroneilol, geranyl acetate, citral, ionone and methylionone can be considered as synthetic or semi-synthetic perfume oils.
• Examples 1 to 4 comparative example V1.
• an approximately 30% by weight dispersion of cetylstearyl alcohol in water was used, each of which, as stabilizers, 1% by weight, based on the dispersion, of sodium lauryl sulfate (D1) and sodium laureth sulfate (D2) or Coco Glucosides (D3, D4) contained.
• the dispersions were produced by the microdispersion process.
• the dispersion D1 had an average particle size of 55 ⁇ m, the dispersions D2 and D3 of 40 ⁇ m and the dispersion D4 of 10 ⁇ m.
• the cetylstearyl alcohol was stirred in directly, ie not as an aqueous surfactant dispersion.
• the five O / W creams were prepared by homogenizing the components at 20 ° C. The viscosity was determined immediately and after storage over a period of 4 weeks at 40 ° C. using the Brookfield method (10 rpm, spindle 1). The results are summarized in Table 1:

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