WO1998000101A1

WO1998000101A1 - Cosmetic compositions for skin care, specially as cellulite preventing or reducing agent

Info

Publication number: WO1998000101A1
Application number: PCT/BR1997/000023
Authority: WO
Inventors: Anisio Pinotti; Luciane Oliveira; Samuel Dos Santos Guerra Filho
Original assignee: Indústria e Comércio de Cosméticos Natura Ltda.
Priority date: 1996-06-27
Filing date: 1997-06-27
Publication date: 1998-01-08
Also published as: PE83798A1; CO5280068A1; BR9602919A; AR007464A1

Abstract

The invention is relative to cosmetic compositions for skin care, specially as cellulite manifestation preventive agent or reducing coadjutor in human skin, in form of aqueous composition, containing demineralized water in proportion corresponding to complete 100 %, by weight, containing, in a ponderal basis: (a) a vasoactive agent, chosen between: (i) xanthines and its derivatives, in a 0.5 to 10.0 % ratio; (ii) phospholipidic complexes, in a 0.1 to 5.0 % ratio; (iii) nicotinic acid derivatives or niacin or nicotinates, in a 0.01 to 1.00 % ratio; (iv) rutinosides and their derivatives, in a 0.001 to 1.000 % ratio; and (v) mixture of two or more vasoactive agents referred; (b) a lipolytic agent, specially xanthine or a substituted purine, as 2,6-di-hydroxypurine, and their derivatives, in a 0.5 to 10.0 % ratio; (c) a fibroblast stimulating agent, in a 0.1 to 5.0% ratio; (d) conditioning agents for the aqueous composition, comprising: (i) a thickener agent, in a 0.1 to 2.0 % ratio; (ii) an emollient agent, in a 0.5 to 5.0 % ratio; (iii) an emulsifying agent, in a 1.0 to 5.0 % ratio; (iv) an antioxidant agent, in a 0.01 to 1.00 % ratio; (v) a perfume and/or an usual preservative agent, each of them in quantity smaller than 1.00 %. When the compositions are used as localized fat preventive agent or reducing coadjutor in human skin, they comprise in addition to the respective components (a)-(i) to (a)-(iii): (b) as lipolytic agent, from 0.5 to 5.0 %, by weight, of one or more silane derivatives; (d) as conditioning agents of the respective aqueous compositions: (i) 5.0 to 20 %, by weight, of humectants; (ii) a hydrophilic diluent, in 1.0 to 20.0 % ratio, by weight; (iii) as liquefier agent, sodium electrolytes, in 0.5 to 10.0 % ratio, by weight, and a perfume or fragrance and/or preservative agent, usual, each one in quantities smaller than 1.00 %, by weight.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR SKIN CARE, SPECIALLY AS CELLULITE PREVENTING OR REDUCING AGENT

1. CELLULITE 1.1. Definition Cellulite is an aesthetic problem affecting great part of the female population. Almost 80% of the western hemisphere women, obese or not, exhibit cellulite characteristic signs and aspects.

The word cellulite signifies cell inflammation. However, the symptoms that are commonly named as cellulite are not an inflammation. In fact, they are concerned with a disturbance of the liquid and lipids metabolism, whose disturbances make the skin become a "quilted" or "orange peel" aspect . This aesthetic disturbance scientific denomination is Gynoid Hydro Lipodyε rophy, where hydro is related to water, lipo is related to fat, dystrophy is related to the metabolic disturbance and gynoid signifies in the female figure. Recently, due to the scientific studies advancements, the terminology was revised, being substituted by Sclerotic Fibroedema Panniculuspathy, where panniculus signifies membrane, pathy is related to the disease, fibro is related to the increase of fibrous tissue, edema signifies excessive accumulation of liquids and sclerotic is related to hardening. This second definition embraces better all aspects concerned in the disturbances that result in cellulite.

1.2. Skin Structure and Cellulite Development The skin, the greatest body organ, is formed by several layers superposition. The most outer layer, the epidermis, is responsible for the protection against water loss and organism defense (mechanical and physical actions, as friction and wind) . The next layer, the derma, is formed by fibrous conjunctive tissue and epidermal annexes (hair, sudoriferous and sebaceous glands). All this, including also collagen and elastic fibers, blood vessels and nervous terminations, is involved by fundamental substance. This has a gelatinous aspect, a viscous gel, and is formed by the hydration of the macromolecules (proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans) . In this layer occurs the skin cells renovation, in which the fibroblast performs a very important role, mainly in the collagen production.

Subsequently, we can find the hypoderma (nowadays considered a division of the derma) , where the adipose cells are located (cells responsible for the fat storage) .

It is believed that the first physiological disturbance which leads to the cellulite development occurs at microcirculatory level. Despite the existing polemics, some authors state that the first sings occur as a consequence of a fibroblastε disturbance. The hypothesis of circulatory implication seems to be the most accepted. Th s, circulation deficiency causes tissue exudation (liquids extravasation), causing the edema phenomenon. In other words, the swelling. The blood return becomes difficult and the lymphatic system is also implicated (due to liquids overload) . In the liquid exudate, substances that stimulate lipogenesis are released (fat production) .

Parallelly, occurs fibroblasts disturbance. This results in the reduction or loss on the activity of cells performing essential biological functions. As a consequence, the fundamental substance structure is changed, culminating in the formation of a hardened gel . The intersection of these phenomenons , matrix intumescence and capillary compression, reduces oxygen supply. Once the cellular respiration is affected, the organism uses alternative biochemical ways which enhance the existing disturbed processes. This modified process also collaborates to fat accumulation in the adipose cell. Consequently, the cellulite has its start, and the process develops itself in a cascade effect (some disturbances lead to the emergence of others) and advances as a growing snow ball with no return.

These disturbances make clear that cellulite is not only fat accumulation in the adipose cell . It should be understood as the adipose cell volume increase implicating several physiological disturbances, where the final result is the cellulite occurrence. This is a process with several stages, in which the skin initially has a normal appearance, acquires a pre-cellulite condition and finally exhibits cellulite manifestation. This process is classified in four stages. The first stage is characterized by begin of the edema formation, vessels rupture and fibers implication. These disturbances promote edema aggravation in a second stage. As a consequence, occurs the compression of vessels and nerves, and tissue deterioration in the third stage. Through the progression of these phenomenons, the final stage is characterized by arise of hard nodules in the derma.

1.3. Cellulite Unleashing Factors

Among the factors which unleash this process, the hyperestrogenism (estrogen increase) is considered the prime reason. The hormonal influence of the estrogen (female hormone, one of the responsibles for the woman's organic characteristics and menstrual cycle) stimulates fat increase in the adipose cells, modifies the blood vessels permeability, exerting influences on the fibroblasts activity, phenomenons related to the cellulite development.

Heredity exerts influence, since it determines a propensity in cellulite development. Genetic heritage defines the corporal structure (which includes the adipose tissue topography) , functionality and metabolic disturbance susceptibility. Other recognized aggravating agents are the endogenous factors (hyperinsulinis : insulin increase, insulin is the main hormone implicated in fat reserves formation) and the exogenous factors (internal compressive: pregnancy, pre- menstrual syndrome, intestinal constipation, and external compressive: close-fitting and tight clothes, panty girdles). All these last mentioned factors are related to the blood circulation system implication.

1.4.Cellulite Visualization

Cellulite manifestation has several levels. In some cases the effects are subtle, being discerned only through muscles contraction or pressing the skin with the fingers: undulations can be observed in the skin ("orange peel" or "quilted" aspect). Granules or lumps (subcutaneous nodules) can also be observed sliding the fingers over the skin making a light pressure. In more advanced levels, cellulite is visibly observed (through derma projection above the normal skin level in a not homogeneous way) , and may be accompanied of microvarixes (fine ruptured or dilated blood vessels) and pain sensation on the affected region. Cellulite occurs predominantly in the gluteal , thigh and hip region.

1.5. Cellulite Prevention The ideal case is to restrain its formation and avoid its evolution, preventing cellulite manifestation. The aggravating agents are summed up to irregular nourishing habits, lack of physical exercise practice (sedentariness) , contraceptives ingestion (hormonal stimulation which depends on individual variability) , emotional factors (stress) , smoking habit, alcohol, among others. An adequate prevention includes daily liquids ingestion, healthy nutrition, moderate and constant physical exercise practice and a cosmetic treatment using active principles which act over the microcirculation, adipose cell metabolism activation (fat breakage and elimination) and skin superficial aspect improvement .

1.6.How to Treat Cellulite Once cellulite signs are present or even before that, in the begin of the adolescence period, a rational treatment should be established including several measures . The adoption of an adequate diet and regular moderate physical exercise practice is essential, added to localized treatment using cosmetic products.

1.7.Cosmetic Treatment System

The cosmetic treatment proposed by the present invention was developed considering all physiological aspects concerned in cellulite apparition and evolution. Active principles of cosmetic use, exhibiting known efficiency, for the different cellulite stages and symptoms were chosen.

Cellulite is initiated from dysfunctions at circulatory level. The active principles elected to actuate on blood circulation are:

• Xanthines and derivatives (for example caffeine) and plant extracts containing these substances (for example, kola extract, guarana extract) . • Plants phospholipidic complexes (for example, Gingko biloba) . The complexing form of actives containing phospholipids acts as an extended releasing mechanism and improves skin absorption, promoting a more efficient treatment . • Rutinosides derivatives

Considering the lymphatic system implication, as a consequence of bad blood circulation, active principles actuating in the improvement of the lymphatic depuration were chosen: • Nicotinates and nicotinic acid derivatives. To act on the fundamental substance structure, were chosen active principles that actuate in the hardened gel fluidization:

• Sodium electrolytes And to recover the implicated biological functions, due to fibroblast activity loss or reduction, active principles actuating on fibroblasts proliferation level were elected:

• Plants phospholipidic complexes (for example Asiatic Centella) . To stimulate the adipose cell (cell that stores fat) , active principles actuating on lipolysis (breakage and reutilization of lipids-fats) were elected:

• Xanthines and derivatives, the same components actuating at circulatory level . • Silanodiols and silanodiol esters (for example, salicylate) . Recent studies demonstrated that the association of silanols to xanthinic derivatives perform a much better lipolytic activity than the usual lipolytic compounds. Due to all these physiological disturbances, the skin exhibits an "orange peel" aspect, becomes dehydrated and thinner, with an aged appearance.

These products were developed to promote skin moisturizing and smoothness, recovering its vitality and healthy aspect. The treatment moisturizes the skin since its beginning, improving the absorption of the active principles responsible for the cellulite fight and prevention. The result is a better skin appearance and cellulite regression.

2. LOCALIZED FΛT

2.1. Definition

Is the accumulation of adipose tissue (fat) in certain regions, as hips, thigh and abdomen.

2.2. Unleashing Factors

Hypercaloric and non-balanced diet (lipids 7 and carbohydrates excess) , sedentary life, lack of regular physical exercises practice and genetic propensity (hereditary factor), are the main Localized Fat unleashing factors.

2.3. Localized Fat Evaluation

Localized fat generally occurs in individuals that are above their ideal corporeal weight. Notwithstanding, individuals with ideal weight can exhibit localized fat in regions exhibiting greater propensity to accumulation. The ideal weight evaluation can be done through the Corporal Mass Index (CMI) calculation. Values intervals for thin, normal and three levels of obese individuals were classified. Due to the differences between men and women referring to their physical constitution, fat quantity and distribution, the table was divided between male and female sexes.

The calculation is done as follows:

W

CMI H where

CMI Corporal Mass Index

W Weight in kg (kilograms] H Height in m (meters)

Female CMI Classification lower than 18 thin

18 to 22, 9 normal

23 to 28,9 obesity 1

29 to 34,9 obesity 2 higher than 35 obesity 3

2.4. Localized Fat Prevention and Treatment

For localized fat elimination, it is necessary to change the individual daily habits and procedures. Nutrition should be balanced to avoid fats and carbohydrates excess. Fibers ingestion helps the organism good functioning. Regular and moderate exercise practice eliminates exceeding calories, stimulates the organism as a whole, and improves the individual life quality. The use of cosmetic products complements these procedures, acting as treatment coadjutant, through the stimulation of the adipositary metabolism (fats breakage and elimination).

The products were developed to stimulated blood circulation, intensifying nutrients interchange and metabolites elimination.

The elected vasoactive agents are:

• Xanthines and derivatives (for example, caffeine) and plant extracts containing these substances

(for example, kola extract, guarana extract). • Nicotinates and nicotinic acid derivatives

(action at lymphatic system level).

To actuate on the adipositary metabolism stimulation, active principles with lipolytic action, for the intensification of fat breakage and elimination, were elected: • Xanthines and derivatives (xanthines act on blood circulation and adipose cell metabolism stimulation) .

• Silanodiols and silanodiol esters (for example, salicylate) .

And, to promote the hardened fundamental substance fluidization, improving epidermis structure and facilitating the other active principles actuation, was chosen the active principle:

• Sodium electrolytes 3. CELLULITE AND LOCALIZED FAT Existing Differences and Proposed Treatment

When we speak about localized fat, we consider only the fat accumulation in certain regions . However, what concerns cellulite, it is necessary to consider the adipose cell volume increase caused by the disturbed physiological phenomenons, which enable cellulite development and manifestation.

Cellulite is an essentially female problem, because it is intrinsically concerned with the consequences of the female hormone, the estrogen. What refers to localized fat, it can occur in both, men and women. Cellulite manifests itself through the "orange peel" aspect and the localized fat presents itself as fat increase in certain regions. In this last case, the skin has a smooth and homogeneous aspect, without cellulite characteristic signs. Most cellulite signs and symptoms can be easily recognized. It is very usual to mistake cellulite with localized fat, because both occur in the same tissue. It is necessary to evaluate cellulite most characteristic signs, that are: irregular, undulated or "quilted" surface, dilated pores ("orange peel" aspect), skin exhibiting dry and dull aspect, microvarixes, reduction of the cutaneous resilience, gluteal and thigh flabbiness. Besides these characteristics, some symptoms, as sensation of weight on the legs, tension, fatigue and diffuse spontaneous pain, can occur. Considering the existing differences, and the fact that great majority of the individuals present cellulite associated to localized fat, each problem manifesting itself in different levels, the claimant elaborated a personalized treatment, in which consumers can choose the products according to their physical constitution.

Two types of creams were developed for cellulite treatment, one for prevention and other for treatment. The prevention is essential while considering all cellulite propensity factors. The modern life habits and the fact that adolescent woman are manifesting this problem more and more earlier, even without genetic precedence, emphasize and justify prevention necessity.

When cellulite is still not apparent (visible) , the Preventive Cream should be used. When the characteristic signs are already perceptible, the Reducing Cream should be used. The creams have similar formulas, containing the same active principles, but active agents concentration in the Reducing Cream is higher, guaranteeing more efficiency. Within the same concept, treatment products for different levels of localized fat were formulated. Individuals do not present the same fat content and, consequently, can not be treated in the same manner.

Considering these facts, the claimant elaborated two product levels:

Thermodynamic Fluid Level 1 : meant to localized fat treatment in individuals presenting ideal weight (see table on page 5) .

Thermodynamic Fluid Level 2: should be used when the individual is above his ideal weight.

To facilitate the comprehension and the product choice, following table was elaborated:

CELLULITE

OBESITY Not Apparent Does not have apparent cellulite

Thin with ideal weight Case 1 Case 2

Thin with localized fat Case 3 Case 4 Case 5

Above ideal weight Case 6 Case 7 Case 8

Case 1 Cellulite Preventive Cream Case 2 Cellulite Reducing Cream Case 3 Fluid Level 1 - Cellulite Preventive Cream Case 4 Fluid Level 1 - Cellulite Reducing Cream Case 5 Fluid Level 1 Case 6 Fluid Level 2 Cellulite Preventive Cream Case 7 Fluid Level 2 Cellulite Reducing Cream

Case 8 Fluid Level 2

To facilitate and increase fluids and creams active principles absorption, as well as improve skin moisturizing, a product for skin exfoliation was developed.

The Exfoliating Cream for the Body was formulated with two types of exfoliating agents: physical and chemical. The physical exfoliate, silica microspheres, removes dead cells of the skin most outer layer (epidermis) , through the granules mechanical action. The chemical exfoliate, alpha-hydroxy acid, promotes keratinocytes disaggregation and, consequently, intensifies cellular renovation (keratinocytes are cells formed in the derma which migrate to the epidermis, constituting the most outer skin protection layer. This is how the cellular renovation process occurs).

3.1. Usage Assignment The Exfoliating Cream for the Body should be used prior to treatment products, three times weekly. It should be used while taking a shower or bath, and be gently distributed through circulatory movements in the affected regions. The product should be rinsed with abundant water until complete removal.

Creams and Fluids should be used in the morning and during the night. The fluids should be applied to dry skin, through gentle, circular and ascendant movements. The creams should be applied, directly afterwards, in the areas presenting more propensity or with perceptible cellulite, with gentle massage.

The application of the Thermodynamic Fluid prior to physical exercise or sport practice can improve product efficiency.

4.PRODUCTS INTERACTION DURING THE TREATMENT

The Exfoliating Cream for the Body prepares the skin for the other products application. The exfoliating action promotes skin moisturizing increase and greater cutaneous absorption.

The Thermodynamic Fluid (Levels 1 and 2) is a rapid drying liquid exhibiting pleasant touch. It should be used prior to the cellulite treatment cream (Preventive or Reducing) application. It acts specifically on the adipose cells, intensifying lipidic metabolism. The Fluid promotes localized fat elimination, with active principles having specific action on lipolysis, assisted by local circulation increase. Parallelly, it promotes a progressive fundamental substance fluidization, guaranteeing better conditions for cells metabolism and fat elimination. At treatment begin, local warming accompanied by reddening can be perceived. This is a normal and desirable process, occurs as a function of the vasoactives agents, and varies according to individual susceptibility. Usually this symptom tends to disappear in approximately 30 minutes after application. This symptom tends to diminish with repeated use, due to an organism adaptation, but vascular effects continue to occur.

The local circulation improvement and fundamental substance fluidization promote greater Preventive and Reducing Creams efficiency, facilitating creams penetration through the skin layers.

The cream cosmetic basis, due to the surfactants content, changes cutaneous permeability through modifications in the corneal layer intercellular cement structure, improving the transepidermal permeation. The complexing of the vegetable origin active principles with lipidic derivatives, increases the lipophilia and improves their bioavailability in the percutaneous topic administration, promoting gradual active principles release, making their action be prolonged and potentiated. The creams are easily and rapidly applied, exhibiting a light texture and leaving a pleasant and silky touch over the skin.

The association of Thermodynamic Fluid Levels 1 or 2 and Preventive or Reducing Cream, promotes the synergistic action for the proposed treatment. The active principles contained in the products are complementary.

Considering all concerned agents, it is possible to verify that all physiological changes and cutaneous structures implied in the problem being discussed are being stimulated and repaired by the elected product set. 5.TREATMENT EVALUATION

Sixty female patients, with ages varying between 22 and 45 years, not obese, with cellulite

(perceptible signs) were selected. Each volunteer tested two different product types, one in each thigh. 60 days thereafter, they were submitted to a new evaluation. The tests were conducted with the use of Thermodynamic Fluid Level 2 and a cream, this being: Placebo Cream, Cellulite Reducing Cream or Imported Cream (Svelte- Dior) . The volunteers made daily use of these products, applying them through gentle local massage. The obtained results showed that, in general, the volunteers noticed some improvement in cellulite aspect after products application. 75% of the volunteers pertaining the group that tested the Thermodynamic Fluid Level 2 associated to Cellulite Reducing Cream and Thermodynamic Fluid Level 2 associated to Placebo Cream noticed some improvement. Among them, 41,7% noticed some improvement in the cellulite aspect associated with the Reducing Cream use. The comparison between the Cellulite Reducing

Cream and a highly reputable imported product (Svelte-Dior) , showed that 83,3% of the volunteers noticed improvement associated to Reducing Cream use against 58,3% of the Imported Cream. 66,7% considered the Reducing Cream better than the imported one. The other volunteers considered both products as equal. Concerning performance, 22,5% of the volunteers noticed some improvement associated to Reducing Cream use against 15% associated to imported product use. Besides its better efficiency, the preference in respect to the Reducing Cream occurred as consequence of its greater yield, better spreading properties (product is easily applied on the body) and greater skin moisturizing.

6. THE COSMETIC PRODUCTS 6.1. Thermodynamic Fluid Levels 1 and 2

The products contain the same active principles in different concentrations. Thermodynamic Fluid 2 contains a higher active principles concentration. The table bellow lists the formulation components . The active agents are in boldfaced letters: FUNCTION DESCRIPTION %

VEHICLE Demmeralαzed water suff quant for 100

VASOACTIVE AND Xanthines and derivatives (for 0,5 to 10,0 LIPOLYTIC example caffeine) and plant extracts containing these substances (for example, kola and guarana extract)

VASOACTIVE Nicotmates and nicotinic acid 0,01 to 1,00 derivatives LIPOLYTIC Silanodiols and silanodiol esters 0,5 to 5,0 (for example, salicylate)

HUMECTANT Glycols (for example glycerin, 5,0 to 20, 0 propylene glycol)

SOLVENT Alcohols (for example ethyl alcohol) 1,0 to 20,0

LIQUEFIER Sodium electrolyte (for example 0,5 to 10,0 sodium chloride)

PERFUME Fragrance suff . quantity

PRESERVATIVE Preservative suff .quantity

6.1.2.Manufacturing Process

The fluids are manufactured through usual processing techniques . They are solutions in which the active principles are added to the solvents or solutizing vehicles, the most adequate for its skin action.

6.2. Cellulite Preventive and Reducing Cream

The products have the same cosmetic base, exhibiting different active principles concentrations. The Reducing Cream has a higher active principles concentration. The table bellow lists the components elected:

15

FUNCTION DESCRIPTION %

VEHICLE Demineralized water suff . quant . fo r 100

THICKENERS Gums ( for example xanthan gum) , 0,1 to 2,0 acrylic acid derivatives (for example, sodium carboxyvinyl polyacrylate)

EMOLLIENTS Lanolin derivatives (for example, 0,5 to 5,0 acetylated lanolin alcohol) , esters (for example, decyl oleate) , vegetable origin oils (for example, sweet almonds oil) , lecithin derivatives (for example, soy lecithin)

AN IOXIDANTS Tocopherol derivatives (for example, 0,01 to 1,00 acetate) , toluene derivatives (for example, butyl-hydroxytoluene)

EMULGATOR Lauric acid derivatives (for 1,0 to 5,0 example, phosphated lauric acid esters)

VASOACTIVE Phospholipidic complex of plants 0,1 to 5,0 derivatives ( for example Ginkgo biloba)

FIBROBLAST Phospholipidic complex of plants 0,1 to 5,0 STIMULATOR derivatives (for example, Asiatic Centella)

VASOACTIVE Rutinosides derivatives 0,0001 to 1,000 VASOACTIVE Nicotinates and nicotinic acid 0,01 to 1,00 derivatives

PERFUME Fragrance sufficient quanti y

PRESERVATIVE Preservative sufficient quan ity

6.2.1.Manufacturing Process

The creams are manufactured through usual manufacturing techniques. They are colloidal dispersions stabilized by surfactants. The active principles are added to solvents or dispersion vehicles, the most adequate for skin action.

6.3. Presentation Form

The products are presented in the form of spray fluid and tube cream. The product can be presented in form of gels, lotions, roll on, sticks and others, varying the adequate vehicles for each proposed form. The Cosmetic products:

• Thermodynamic Fluid Levels 1 and 2

• Cellulite Preventive and Reducing Cream

• Exfoliating Cream for the Body

The products contain the same active principles in different concentrations. The Thermodynamic Fluid Level 2 and the Reducing Cream contain higher active principles concentration. The table bellow lists the formulations active agents, elected for Cellulite and Localized Fat treatment:

FUNCTION DESCRIPTION %

VASOACTIVE Xanthines and derivatives (for 0,5 to 10, 0

AND example caffeine) and plant

LIPOLYTIC extracts containing these substances (for example, kola and guarana extract)

VASOACTIVE Nicotinates and nicotinic acid 0,01 to 1,00 derivatives

LIPOLYTIC Silanodiols and silanodiol esters 0,5 to 5,0 (for example, salicylate) IQUEFIER Sodium electrolyte (for example, 0, 5 to 10,0 sodium chloride)

VASOACTIVE Phospholipidic complex of plants 0,1 to 5,0 derivatives (for example Ginkgo biloba)

VASOACTIVE Rutinosides derivatives 0,001 to 1,000

CHEMICAL Alpha-hydroxy acids (for example, 0,5 to 10, 0 EXFOLIATE glycolic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid)

PHYSICAL Silica microspheres, of 1,0 to 10,0 EXFOLIATE polyethylene 6.4. Exfoliating Cream for the Body

Formulation Components :

7. ADVANTAGES The proposed cosmetic treatment is an integrated system for Cellulite and Localized Fat fight and prevention through active principles synergetic action. The products enable a personalized treatment, acting on different aesthetic problems, generally occurring concomitantly. The system was developed to promote active principles prolonged release and greater skin absorption. This function is also performed and supported by the formulations vehicles .

The products are easily applied, produce a pleasant sensation on the skin, turning it smooth and silky, besides having a delicate perfume.

The cosmetic treatment was clinically evaluated and the volunteers exhibited visible improvement in the cellulite aspect. 8. Bibliographic References

l.CHUN, S. et al . Membranous 1ipodystrophy: secondary type. J .A .Acad. Dermatol , 1994, n.10, p.601-605. 2.CIPARKIN, H . ; PASCHOAL, L.H.C. Atualizaςao terapeutica e fisiopatogenica da lipodistrofia ginόide (L.D.G.) . "Celulite". Ed. Santos, 1992. 3. CURRI, S.B. Aspetti termografici della pannicolopatia edemato fibrosclerotica degli arti inferiori . La Medicina Estetica, p.137-146.

4. CURRI , S.B. Cellulite and fatty tissue microcirculation.

Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1993, v.108, n.4, p.51-58. 5. CURRI, S.B. Las paniculopatias de estasis venosa: diagnόstico clinico y experimental. Hausmann, p.14-49. 6. CURRI, S.B.; BOMBARDELLI , E. Local lipodystrophy and districtual microcirculation. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1994, n.9, p.51-65. 7.DI SALVO, R.M. Controlling the appearance of cellulite. Cosmetic &. Toiletries, 1995, v.110, n.7, p.50-59. 8.LEVRAT, B. Pesquisa da atividade lipolitica do salicilato de silanol "in vitro" no tecido adiposo subcutaneo. Mesoterapia Atual, 1994, n.12, p.101-3. 9.PAILLET, C; LANGRAND, G. Cafeisilane C: sus propiedades biolόgicas como agente anticelulitico. In: Simposio Colombiano de Ciencia e Tecnologia Cosmetica, 4.

10.RIVISTA SCIENTIFICA DELLE: SOCIETA ITALIANA DI FLEBOLOGIA,

1990, v.l, n.l, p.22-23. 11. SMITH, W.P., Cellulite treatments: snake oils or skin science. Cosmetic & Toiletries, 1995, v.110, n.7, p.61-70. 12. SMITH, .P. Hydroxy acids and skin aging. Cosmetic & Toiletries, 1995, v.110, n.7, p.61-70. 13.ZATS, J.L. Skin Permeation: Fundamentals and Application. Allured, Wheaton. 1993, p.300

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Cosmetic compositions for skin care, specially as cellulite manifestation preventive agent or reducing coadjutor in human skin, in form of aqueous composition, containing demineralized water in ratio corresponding to complete 100%, by weight, characterized by the fact of containing, in a ponderal basis:

(a) . vasoactive agent, chosen between: (i) xanthines and its derivatives, that may be present in form of plant extracts containing these substances, specially kola and guarana extracts, in a 0,5 to 10,0% ratio; (ii) phospholipidic complexes, specially in form of plants derivatives containing these substances, notably the Ginkgo biloba plant, in a 0,1 to 5,0% ratio; (iii) nicotinic acid derivatives or niacin or nicotinates, in a 0,01 to 1,00% ratio; (iv) rutinosides and their derivatives, in a 0,001 to 1,000% ratio;

(v) mixture of two or more vasoactive agents referred;

(b) a lipolytic agent, specially xanthine or a substituted purine, as 2 , 6-di-hydroxypurine, and their derivatives, in a 0,5 to 10,0% ratio, that can be associated to a vasoactive agent;

(c) a fibroblast stimulating agent, specially phospho-lipids and their mediators, which are long chain fatty derivatives of tri- and poly-alcohols (glycerin) and a phosphoretted component, specially inositol triphosphate and diacyl glycerol, in a 0,1 to 5,0% ratio;

(d) conditioning agents for the aqueous composition, comprising:

(i) a thickener agent chosen between natural gums, as xanthan, or hydrophilic polymers, specially acrylic derivatives, in a 0,1 to 2,0% ratio; (ii) an emollient agent, chosen between fatty alcohols and acids derivatives, fatty acids alkyl and glycerol esters, in a 0,5 to 5,0% ratio; (iii) an emulsifying agent, specially lauric acid esters, in a 1,0 to 5,0% ratio;

(iv) an antioxidant agent, specially tocopherol derivatives and congeners, in a 0,01 to 1,00% ratio; (v) a perfume and, or an usual preservative agent, each of them in quantity smaller than 1,00%, sufficient for their specific actuation in the global composition.

2. Cosmetic compositions for skin care, specially as preventive agent or coadjutor for localized fat manifestation reduction in the human skin, as a variation of the composition specified in vindication 1, characterized by the fact of containing, in addition to the respective components (a)-(i) to (a) -(iii):

(b) as lipolytic agent, from 0,5 to 5,0%, by weight, of one or more silane derivatives, of the group comprising silanodiols and silanodiol esters with reducing organic acids, specially silanodiol salicylate;

(d) as conditioning agents of the respective aqueous compositions : (i) 5,0 to 20%, by weight, of glycols and polyalcohols based humectants, specially propylene glycol, glycerin; (ii) a hydrophilic diluent, in 1,0 to 20,0% ratio, by weight, specially alcohols, as ethyl alcohol; (iii) as liquefier agent, sodium electrolytes, specially sodium chlorate, in 0,5 to 10,0% ratio, by weight, and a perfume or fragrance and/or preservative agent, usual, each one in quantities smaller than 1,00%, by weight, sufficient for their specific actuation in these global composition.

3. Cosmetic compositions for skin care, specially as cellulite manifestation preventive agent or reduction coadjutant, in human skin, as specified in vindication 1, characterized by the fact of containing, in addition to the respective components (a) , (b) and (c) , as component (d) : one or more emollient agents, in a 0,5 to 5,0% ratio, by weight, chosen between lanolin derivatives, fatty acids esters (Cι-Cι₈) , vegetable origin oils and lecithin, as the one of soy, and also a perfume or fragrance and/or preservative agent, usual, each one in quantity smaller than 1,00%, by weight, sufficient for their specific actuation in these global composition.

4. Cosmetic compositions for skin care, as specified in claims 1, 2 or 3 , characterized by the fact of being formulated as usual spray preparations, with adjunction of an innocuous propellant, of colloidal dispersions, stabilized through usual surfactant agents, of gels, lotions, application sticks and other usual cosmetics forms for the skin.