WO1996025409A1

WO1996025409A1 - Cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing an ozonide-enriched natural vegetable oil, and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: WO1996025409A1
Application number: PCT/FR1996/000239
Authority: WO
Inventors: Noël DAVID; Bernard Delorme
Original assignee: Cosmart Ag
Priority date: 1995-02-16
Filing date: 1996-02-14
Publication date: 1996-08-22
Also published as: AU4834596A; FR2730636A1; FR2730636B1

Abstract

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions based on an ozonide-containing natural vegetable oil, and the uses of said compositions for cosmetic treatment of the skin or as a drug, are disclosed.

Description

Cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing a natural vegetable oil enriched with ozonides and uses.

The present invention relates to a natural oil enriched in ozonides, cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing it as well as the corresponding uses.

Ozone is an allotropic variety of oxygen, its molecule is made up of three oxygen atoms and it is gaseous in the normal state.

This gas has various properties: it is an excellent anti-infective agent having in particular bactericidal, fungicidal and viricidal properties; the interest of ozone is therefore great in acne treatments, its oxygenating activity brings an improvement in circulation and micro-circulation in blood in general, which constitutes a very effective treatment for circulatory disorders lower limbs such as heavy legs or cellulite, it allows an increase in the oxidative metabolism of the cell reducing the formation of toxins and free radicals, which places it among the main cellular regenerators.

Ozone therefore naturally finds its place within a line of cosmetic care.

Until now, the administration of ozone as a cosmetic treatment has been carried out by local spraying of a mixture of water vapor and ozone, or during baths in an ozonated atmosphere, or else by passing directly over the skin of the electrodes which produce a sufficient electric arc to transform the oxygen in the air into ozone. Other techniques such as the administration of ozone by injection are used in particular in the medical field. However, since ozone is gaseous, the difficulty lies in the sustainable capture of this gas.

In fact, the various attempts which have been made to dissolve the ozone in an aqueous medium or not have not made it possible to stabilize the ozone in the medium used.

Furthermore, it is known to capture ozone in order to transform it by means of a process consisting of the reaction of ozone on the ethylene bond of an unsaturated fatty acid thus giving rise, by ozonolysis, to the formation of a complex called ozonide.

The mechanism of this ozonolysis reaction is an electrophilic attack of ozone on an ethylene bond which first forms a non-stable primary molozide ozonide. This reaction is highly exothermic and is accompanied by a release of heat of 155 to 163 J / mol. It is an irreversible reaction. This first molecule quickly decomposes into a bi¬ polar ion and a carbonyl compound. These two radicals then recombine to form an ozonide called normal or isozonide. The overall molecule obtained is a fatty substance peroxide which is cited in the scientific literature as a compound having anti-inflammatory properties. Experience shows that the reaction is highly specific. Indeed, as long as there are double connections, ozone continues to be consumed. The reaction rate is also a function of the flow rate of the ozone and moreover, the reaction being exothermic, the temperature of the reaction must be followed and regulated for the control of this reaction. The yield, that is to say 1 complete ozonolysis of the ethylenic bonds, is thus close to 100%, we then speak of saturation.

After detailed studies, the Applicant Company was able to determine that ozonides of a particular type could be used in composites. cosmetic or pharmaceutical.

The ozonides in question result from the reaction, as described above, of ozone on the ethylenic bond of an unsaturated fatty acid chosen from those contained mainly in a natural vegetable oil.

Advantageously, the natural vegetable oil is chosen from sweet almond oil, safflower oil and peanut oil of which 80 to 90% of the unsaturated fatty acids consist of oleic acid. In addition, these oils have excellent skin tolerance.

In the manufacture of the ozonides used in the context of the present invention, it will be avoided to achieve what has been called above: saturation, that is to say complete ozonolysis of the ethylenic bonds present in the vegetable oil to be treated. Indeed, such a situation gives rise to parasitic polymerization reactions between the ozonides formed and this results in a significant increase in the viscosity of the treated oil.

Thus, in an advantageous embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the total amount of complexed ozone in the oil to be treated is between 3 and 16% by weight relative to the weight of the oil, preferably between 6 and 13% by weight relative to the weight of the oil and more preferably still between 8 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oil.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is in particular cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium a natural vegetable oil containing ozonides as described above.

It also relates to the use of these compositions for the cosmetic treatment of the skin such as the treatment of acne, wrinkles, pigment spots or rosacea. It also relates to the use of these compositions as a medicament, in particular intended for the treatment of circulatory disorders, muscle pain or infectious diseases. Furthermore, it should be noted that the complex formed by ozonide is very sensitive to temperature, to light as well as to many other chemical compounds such as bases and acids.

This is why it may be necessary to protect the complex from the external environment in order to prevent it from reacting, for example, with the other chemical components when it is incorporated into a cosmetic care product or a pharmaceutical product. For this, the oil can be encapsulated within liposome-type spherules. This encapsulation is also an essential factor for optimizing the efficiency of the ozonide because it allows a better distribution of it in the deep layers of the epidermis and improves its bioavailability by a delayed release. Indeed, the effectiveness of a cosmetic substance depends to a large extent on its bioavailability. It is indeed essential that the active substance reaches its site of action as quickly and in maximum concentration. Conventionally, when a product is introduced into the body, its concentration is first high and then decreases relatively quickly. With a delay system, such as encapsulation within a microparticle, it is possible, for the same quantity of substance, to obtain a concentration that is much better distributed over a longer time.

The encapsulation can be carried out with various capsules of liposomal type.

The term “liposomes” means well-known compounds which are generally in the form of capsules consisting of one or more outer lipophilic layers forming a membrane and an inner hydrophilic layer. The capsules can also consist of a protein membrane sphere; by way of example, mention may be made of Nanocollasphère (registered trademark of the company COLETI- CA), consisting of collagen associated with a glycosaminoglycan. This type of vector has the advantage, in combination with suitable excipients, of giving less irritating and biodegradable skin preparations. Thus, the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions in accordance with the invention contain, in a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, a colloidal suspension of particles encapsulating a natural vegetable oil containing ozonides as previously described.

Advantageously, the particles in question are nanoparticles, that is to say that they have a size of the order of a nanometer facilitating their penetration into the skin.

In order to facilitate the presentation of the present inven¬ tion, we will cite by way of example the principle of manufacture of this type of particles. It consists in preparing a collagen and glycosine inoglycan inflection on the one hand and on the other hand a preparation of a suitable crosslinking agent, well known to those skilled in the art, as described in particular in FR-A- 2,642,329, in particular an agent comprising reactive groups capable of reacting with the reactive groups of said proteins, in particular acylable groups. The bringing together of the two preparations allows the formation of nanoparticles by crosslinking the proteins, the encapsulation of the oil then being automatically carried out in the case where it is also present in the reaction medium. The nanoparticles are then separated from the supernatant by centrigation.

The composition thus obtained is capable of entering into the formulation of cosmetic or pharmaceutical products of the cream, ointment, emulsion, lotion type. or gel as well as hygiene or hair care products. In addition, these products may contain sunscreens, antioxidants and preservatives. The present invention therefore also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions based on natural oil containing encapsulated ozonides in accordance with the invention for the manufacture of cosmetic preparations intended for the treatment of the skin such as the treatment of acne, wrinkles, age spots or rosacea.

It also relates to the use of pharmaceutical compositions based on natural oil containing encapsulated ozonides in accordance with the invention as a medicament, this medicament possibly being especially intended for the treatment of circulatory disorders, muscular pain or infectious diseases.

The example which follows makes it possible to understand the invention better but is given only for illustrative purposes.

EXAMPLE

The ozonation is carried out in a reactor of the bubbler or washing bottle type.

The temperature is monitored by means of a probe and is maintained at 29.6 ° C for the duration of the reaction.

At atmospheric pressure, an air-ozone mixture with a concentration of 51.8 mg 0 ₃ / l is passed for 3 hours at a rate of 49.6 1 / h in 225 g of sweet almond oil.

The ozone is produced using a conventional generator of the LN 103 type. The total mass of ozone introduced is then 7.7 g. The residual ozone is measured after capture with potassium iodide. There is 8 mg, or an almost 100% ozone consumption. The mass of ozone consumed is 34 g / kg of treated oil, i.e. 3.4%.

The encapsulation of the oil containing the ozonides thus obtained is then carried out according to the process described in FR-A-2 642 329.

Claims

1. Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition characterized in that it contains in a cosmetic or pharmaceutically acceptable medium a colloidal suspension of particles encapsulating a natural oil containing ozonides in an amount such that the total amount of ozone complexed in said oil is included between 3% 16% preferably between 6 and 13% and more preferably still between 8 and 10% by weight relative to the weight of the oil.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the particles are nanoparticles.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or characterized in that it enters a cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation in the form of a cream, an ointment, a lotion or a gel.

4. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for the manufacture of a cosmetic preparation intended for the treatment of skin, such as the treatment of acne, wrinkles, pigmentation spots or rosacea.

5. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 as a medicament.

6. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for the manufacture of a medicament intended for the treatment of circulatory disorders of muscular pain or of infectious diseases.