Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
  • D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
  • D06P5/158—Locally discharging the dyes with other compounds
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/46—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
  • D06P1/48—Derivatives of carbohydrates
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
  • D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
  • D06P1/5278—Polyamides; Polyimides; Polylactames; Polyalkyleneimines
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
  • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
  • D06P1/60—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing polyethers
  • D06P1/613—Polyethers without nitrogen
  • D06P1/6138—Polymerisation products of glycols, e.g. Carbowax, Pluronics

Definitions

• the present invention relates to processes of providing localized variation in the colour of dyed fabrics.
• the most usual method of providing a "stone-washed" look (localized abrasion of the colour) in dyed fabrics, in particular cellulose-containing fabrics, is by washing cellulose-containing fabrics or clothing made from such fabrics in the presence of pumice stones to provide the desired localized lightening of the colour of the fa ⁇ bric.
• Using pumice for this purpose has the disadvantage that pumice particles have to be washed from the fabric or clothing subsequently to treatment, and that the pumice stones and particles cause a significant wear of the machines used in the process. Also, handling large amounts of stones may be a problem.
• the present invention is based on the surprising finding that it is possible to obtain improved utilization of the ability of cellulytic enzymes to provide localized colour variations in dyed fabrics by adding a polymeric agent to the wash liquor. Accordingly, the present invention relates to a process for providing improved localised variation in the colour density of the surface of dyed fabrics, the process comprising treating a dyed fabric with a cellulytic enzyme in an aqueous liquor comprising a polymeric agent.
• the expression "improved local ⁇ ized variation" is intended to indicate that the differ- ences between lighter and darker areas of the fabrics is more pronounced than in fabrics treated by the enzymatic process described in, e.g. US 4,832,864. It has been found that in the known enzymatic "stone-washing" pro ⁇ Clears for obtaining localized colour variations, at least some (though not all) of the dye washed from the fabric is redeposited thereon so that the difference between darker and lighter shades on the fabric is some ⁇ what obscured (this phenomenon is known as backstaining to people skilled in the art) . It has surprisingly been found that by addition of a polymeric agent to the liquor in which the fabric is treated, such redeposition of dye may be significantly reduced. This effect is believed to be caused either by the polymer adsorbing to the fabric (so that redeposition of dye is sterically hindered) or by the polymer solubilising the dye.
• the concentration of poly- meric agent in the aqueous liquor is preferably between 0.1 mg/1 and 2 g/1. More preferably, the concentration of polymeric agent is 10-200 mg/1, dependent to some extent on the type of polymeric agent added.
• the process of the invention is most beneficially applied to cellulose-containing fabrics, such as cotton, viscose, rayon, ramie, linen or mixtures thereof, or mixtures of any of of these fibres with synthetic fibres.
• the fabric is denim.
• the fabric may be dyed with vat dyes such as indigo, direct dyes such as Direct Red 185, sulphur dyes such as Sulfur Green 6, or reactive dyes fixed to a binder on the fab ⁇ ric surface.
• vat dyes such as indigo
• direct dyes such as Direct Red 185
• sulphur dyes such as Sulfur Green 6
• reactive dyes fixed to a binder on the fab ⁇ ric surface.
• the fabric is indigo-dyed denim, including clothing items manufactured therefrom.
• the cellulytic enzyme employed in the process of the invention may be any cellulase previously suggested for this purposes (e.g. as described in US 4,832,864).
• the cellulytic enzyme may be a fungal or bacterial cellulase.
• acid and neutral or alkaline cellulases may be employed.
• suitable acid cellulases are those derivable from a strain of Trichoderma. Irpex. Clostridium or Thermocellu sp.
• suitable neutral or alkaline cellulases are those derivable from a strain of Humicola. Fusarium. Bacillus. Cellulomonas. Pseudomonas.
• a cur ⁇ rently preferred cellulase is a 43 kD endoglucanase obtainable from Humicola insolens (e.g. described in WO 91/17243) .
• the polymeric agent may be one which is capable of either adsorbing to the fabric in question or solubilising the dye in question.
• suitable polymers include proteins (e.g. bovine serum albumin, whey, casein or legume proteins) , protein hydrolysates (e.g. whey, casein or soy protein hydrolysate) , polypeptides, lignosulfonates, polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyvinyl pyrrolodone, ethylene diamine condensed with ethylene or propylene oxide, ethoxylated polyamines, or ethoxylated amine polymers.
• proteins e.g. bovine serum albumin, whey, casein or legume proteins
• protein hydrolysates e.g. whey, casein or soy protein hydrolysate
• polypeptides e.g. whey, casein or soy protein hydrolysate
• polypeptides
• the buffer may suitably be a phosphate, borate, citrate, acetate, adipate, triethanola ine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, carbonate (especially alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, in particular sodium or potassium carbonate, or ammonium and HC1 salts) , diamine, especially diaminoethane, imidazole, or amino acid buf ⁇ fer.
• wash liquor addi ⁇ tionally comprises a dispersing agent.
• the dispersing agent may suitably be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, ampholytic or zwitterionic surfactants. More specifically, the dispersing agent may be selected from carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, alkyl aryl sulphonates, long- chain alcohol sulphates (primary and secondary alkyl sulphates) , sulphonated olefins, sulphated monoglycerides, sulphated ethers, sulphosuccinates.
• sulphonated methyl ethers alkane sulphonates, phosphate esters, alkyl isethionates, acyl sarcosides, alkyl taurides, fluorosurfactants, fatty alcohol and alkylphenol condensates, fatty acid condensates, conden ⁇ sates of ethylene oxide with an amine, condensates of ethylene oxide with an amide, sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, alkyloamides, fatty amine oxides, ethoxylated monoamines, ethoxylated dia ines, alcohol ethoxylate and mixtures thereof.
• the swatches were then rinsed in deionized water and air dried. Remission from the white fabric was measured at 660 nm on an Elrepho-photometer.
• the cellulase activity is determined as the viscosity decrease of a solution of carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC) after incubation with the enzyme under the following conditions:
• a substrate solution is prepared, containing 35 g/1 CMC (Hercules 7 LFD) in 0.1 M tris buffer at pH 9.0.
• the enzyme sample to be analyzed is dissolved in the same buffer.
• Viscosity readings are taken as soon as possible after mixing and again 30 minutes later.
• the amount of enzyme that reduces the viscosity by one half under these con ⁇ ditions is defined as 1 ECU.
• the experimental set-up was as described in Example 1.
• the proteins used in this example were soy protein, pea protein and casein.
• the experimental set-up was as described in Example 1 with the exception that the temperature at which the polymer incubation was carried out was changed.
• the polymeric agent exhibits a limited surface activ ⁇ ity in itself (as is the case with, e.g., polyvinyl pyrrolidone) , the effect may be enhanced by adding a suitable surfactant.
• Polymer 0.1 g/1 lignosulphonate (sodium salt) or
• the surfactant alone was able, to some extent, to reduce the level of dye deposition on the swatches.
• the level of dye deposition also varied with the type of polymer added.
• the lowest level of dye deposition was obtained with polyvinyl pyrrolidone together with surfactant.
• Enzyme 130 ECU* of a H.insolens 43 kD cellulase.
• Polymer Lignosit (a lignosulfonate)
• the liquor from this treatment was filtered on a filter.
• the filter was dried and weighed in order to measure the amount of lint formed during the wash as a measure for the abrasion of the denim fabric.
• the white swatches were rinsed in deionized water after the wash and air dried, and the remission from the fab ⁇ ric was measured at 420nm on a Elrepho-photometer.
• Determination of the cellulolytic activity, measured in terms of ECU, may be determined according to the analysis method AF 301.1 which is available from the Applicant upon request.
• the ECU assay quantifies the amount of catalytic activ ⁇ ity present in the sample by measuring the ability of the sample to reduce the viscosity of a solution of carboxy-methylcellulose (CMC) .
• the assay is carried out at 40°C, pH 7.5 using a relative enzyme standard for reducing the viscosity of the CMC substrate.
• the jeans were evaluated by a panel (6 persons named A, B, C, D, E, F) . Apart from the two jeans treated with protein two standard jeans were also evaluated in order to test if the protein had a reducing effect on the backstaining level.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Molecular Biology (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

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Cited By (2)

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Citations (1)

• 1993
  • 1993-02-26 DK DK93213A patent/DK21393D0/da not_active Application Discontinuation
• 1994
  • 1994-02-25 AU AU61393/94A patent/AU6139394A/en not_active Abandoned
  • 1994-02-25 WO PCT/DK1994/000079 patent/WO1994019529A1/en active Application Filing
  • 1994-08-05 CN CN94115041.0A patent/CN1121970A/zh active Pending

Patent Citations (1)

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