USRE7596E - Improvement in corsets - Google Patents

Description

lM. COHN.

CORSET.

Ressued Apr FID 4| INVENTQH.

WITNESSES| THE Nowms Enns co. PHQTQYLITHQ.. wasnmmoN. u4 c.

' with thedrawings making is a full, clear,

those which are to contain the PATENT Ormes.l

MORITZ GOHN, 0F NEW YORK, N. Y.

uwPRovEMsNr IN coRsETs.

specification forming part of 'Letter-s Patent No. 137,893, dated April 15, 1873 reissue No. 1,596, dated April 10, 1877;

To all whom 'it may concern'.-

Be it known that I, 'Monrrz GonN, of the city` county, and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Corsets; and I do hereby declare'that the following specification, taken in connection part of the saine, and exact description thereof.

From the circumstance that a corset is intended to conform to the shape of the human ligure it is necessary that it should be enlarged by'gores or triangular sections of fabric at certain places, so as to give sulicient `fullness to the article where it covers the breasts and the hips of the wearer. It is also customaryto furnish a corset with whalebones, or other exible braces,'to stay lthe article, and give a graceful contour to, and also support, the figure. These whalebones are inserted in tubular cases, which are either formed by weaving the fabric double at the proper places, or, inthe case of hand-made corsets, are made by stitching onto a single fabric of cloth overlying strips of a suitable width to form bonc-cases. These tnbularcases are of two kinds, one of which I w`ill call for distinction the bodyboneVcases, and the other gore-bone cases. The body-bone cases are those which are to contain thel long bones, which extend nearly from edge to edge of the corset, and are located at the back, under the arms, and at the frontof the article. The gorebone cases are short bones, which are to stiffen the gore portions of the corset, which cover the .breasts and the hips and they are necessarily closed at one en by the unavoidable intersection of the weftthreads in weaving such gore-shaped sections' of the corset, and are of varying lengths limited by the shape of the gores to which they belong. f

Previous to my invention ithadbeen custernary to weave the body-bone cases of a length extending from selvage to selvage,'or, at least, if they stopped short of either self vage,with the ends ot the casesleftopen.- This method involves a great deal of hand labor;-

and, consequently, expense, from the fact that the body-bones ought to stop short ofthe upper edge of the corset, and it is desirable, too,

application tiled February 28, 18.77.

that they should be of di'ere'nt lengths relatively to each other, andv to the edge of the corset, in order that the larticle shall be comfortable to the wearer, and'be easily adaptable to the figure, and if the bone-cases are too long or are openended it is necessary to locate the position for the ends of the bones, and then close up the tubular case at such places by handstitching, technically' known in the art of making corsets as farming I propose, by myinvention, to produce a corset in which the locationor position of the bones endwise relatively tothe edge of the corset after it has been cut to a pattern and finished shall be predetermined with the accuracy of the jacquard in the process of weaving the corset stu' or material, and I at the same time effect a great saving of labor and expense in retaining the bonesin place by dispensing with the hand operation of fanning. My invention accomplishes, therefore, not only the production of corsets which are uniform in respectto the length of the bone passages, but also is attended with a reduction in the cost of manufacture ,1 and my invention consists in'making the closure of the pocketlike openings or passages into which the bones are to be put by the process of weaving the fabric, and at such points distant from the finished edge ofthe corset at which it is designed to have vthe end of .each bone located.

and perfectly understand my in vention., I will --proceed to more fully describe it, referring by letters to the accompanyingdrawing, in which, for the purpose of illustration, I have represented two corsets, one made according to the mode of manufacture heretofore most generally practiced, the other according to .my new method.

It will be seen by reference to Figures 1 and 2 that the bones a are held or secured in place endwise in the pockets I) of the -corset material C by stitching e, which is done after the insertion of the bone, and retains the bone endwise `by closing up the passage-way or pocket --in which it is located. lhis is in accordance with or illustrates the mode of manufacture originally practiced, and only departed from prior to xn yin vention as heretofore explained.

To enable those skilled in the art'to makeA 'witnout any passages, whichare made of the properiength, and are A t Figs. 3, 4, andl 5 is illustrated, in elevation and longitudinaiand cross sections, a corset made according to my improved pia/n.

`In these figures, A is the woven fabric of the corset, whichin lieu of being made vwith pock- -et--like openings-.or passages running through 4from edge' tc ledge, or eft with openends, I

weave with pockets or passages, which extend from pue edge ofthe fabric `toward the other, but stopshort ofthe latter 'at Asuch point orio-4 cality asis predetermined for theiocation of the end of each bone, according to the design or shape -to be given to 4the corset, as. shown. Thefabric is woven with the pockets extending, as seen,- from one edge, B, of the fabric "to thepoints 12,0, d, Sm, and-from thesepoints ont to the edge F the'fabric is woven solid, orr ff represent the bones,

inserted from theedge B, or at the open ends of the pockets. After their insertion the bones are pushed home tothe bottom of their ref spective-pockets, when the months oropen ends of the said pocketsare closed up by the stitching and binding of the edge B of the corset, and the perfect retention of the bones thus eifected.

It wiii 'thus be seen that,by forming the corset as described, with the body-bone pockets closed' in the weavingso astoindicate 'retention of the the llocation Aand effect the bones at predetermined places, 1 lam enabled to determine in the manufacture of the corsetfabric the precise points towhichthe subse queutlyinserted boues shallextend,- and thus A 4pattern anyl number of' corsets exactly aike,

whereby the expen se incident to hand fanning is avoided.

l am aware of vand do not claim a hand-made corset with pockets of varying lengths stitched on but i What --I do claim as new, `and ldesire to. secure by Letters Patent yas a new manufacture, Y

been closed in piaces predetermined. stantialiy as describe 2. The improvement in the mode of masking .corsets by closing one end ofthebonepas sages in the for locating weaving at points predetermined the ends-fof the bones, substan 'tiall-y es described.

I MORITZ GOHN.;

Witnesses: I

MA1 W. Enma, H. J. Lemmer".

I Acorset,thebcne-passages oi' whichhave by l.the jecquerth sub-

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