USRE23617E - Anticdbl device foe collaks - Google Patents

Anticdbl device foe collaks Download PDF

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Publication number
USRE23617E
USRE23617E US23617DE USRE23617E US RE23617 E USRE23617 E US RE23617E US 23617D E US23617D E US 23617DE US RE23617 E USRE23617 E US RE23617E
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collar
strip
compression
resistant
stretched
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Expired
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B3/00—Collars
    • A41B3/06—Stiffeners for collars

Definitions

  • Fig. l is a fragmentary plan view of aconventional collar with collarband attached thereto;
  • Fig. 2 is a. fragmentary plan view of a collar like in Fig. 1, but showing the location of the bielastic strips in the edges thereof; the collar of this figure is fused;
  • Fig. 3 is a cross-section on the line III-III of Fig. 2 showing the location and attachment of the bielastic strips-in section;
  • Fig. 4 is a cross-section of a fused collar like Fig. 3 but differs in that thebielastic strip mere- 1y lies in a pocket and is otherwise unfastened;
  • Fig. 5 is a plan view of a non-fused collar which has end portions stiffened by fusing;
  • Fig. 6 is a cross sectionon the-line VIVI of Fig. 5 showing a fused layer 2 of fabric with tapered end to producethe local stiffening;
  • Fig. '7 is a fragmentary-plan view-'of a collar showing the location-of "a bie'lastic strip in a diagonal position;
  • Fig. Bis a cross-section on the line VIII-VIII of Fig. '7;
  • Fig. 9 is a plan view
  • Fig. 10 is a side elevation
  • Fig. 11 an end elevation of one form of a bielastic strip
  • Fig. 12 illustrates the curled shape taken by thebielastic strip after it is completed and" beindicates the additions made by reissue.
  • Fig. 13 is. a cross-sectional view showing a modification of the bielastic strip structure
  • Fig. 14 is a cross-sectional view showing another modification of the bielastic strip structure
  • Fig. 15 is across-section showing still another modification of the bielastic strip structure
  • Fig. 16 is a cross-section showing still a further modification
  • Fig. 1'7 is a longitudinal cross-section of a woven flexible compression-resistant member using monofils in the warp showing how the same may be stabilized against slippage of weft yarns;
  • Fig. 18 is aside view of a bielastic structure incorporating a rubber band with varying tension.
  • Figure 1 shows'a fragmentary plan view of a conventional collartop which may be made, for example, by the procedure of running-andturning as is; well-known in the industry.
  • This collar comprises three plies, viz., a face ply l, a lining ply 2,, and a back ply 3.
  • the collartop is attached to a band portion marked [0.
  • Figure 2 is a fragmentary plan view of a collar as shown in Figure 1, in which is indicated the location of the anticurl strips by dashed lines labeled 2
  • Figure 3 is a cross-section on the line III-III of Figure 2, in which I have indicated more specifically the location and cross-sectional shape of the anticurl strip 2 I.
  • l represents the face ply, 2 the lining ply, and 3 the back ply, as in Figure 1.
  • These plies are held together by the inside seam 4 and subsequently may beheld further together by the external stitch 5 which is. customarily placed near the edge.
  • is located between the stitch 5 which is customarily placed near theedge.
  • the anticurl strip is located between the stitch 5 and the edge of the collar and is attachedbefore-turningof the collar by stitch 6 to the edge of the collar-which is subsequently turned in as indicated in Figure 3, so that the bielastic strip is ultimately concealed and protectedby: the back' ply 3. It is. important to note that the rubber face *of the bielastic strip 2
  • Figure 4 is a cross-section just like Figure 3 with this difference, viz., that the stitch 6 is omitted. That is, in Figure 4, the bielastic strip 2
  • FIG. 2 The structure shown in Figures 2, 3, and 4 is particularly adapted to so-called fused collars. (The fusing is schematically indicated by dots.) It may also be employed with so-called soft collars, but for good results the region in the neighborhood of the points should be stiffened.
  • Figure 5 is a plan view and Figure 6 a crosssection of a soft or non-fused collar in which is shown an extra layer of stiffening lining 1 next the back ply 3. As indicated by the dots, this extra layer of stiffening lining may be fused to the back ply 3.
  • the stiffening in the neighborhood of the points may be obtained in ways other than fusing; for example, in place of the satinized fus ing lining l, I may employ ordinary lining materials stiffened permanently by treatment with appropriate resins, e. g.epoxy resin.
  • the said extra piece of lining 1 may be inserted only in the neighborhood of the collar points, or, if desired, it may extend the full length of the collar.
  • Figure 8 is a cross-section on the line VIII- VIII of Figure 7 showinghow the bielastic anticurl strip at 2Ibis located in the collar.
  • an extra piece of lining is employed as shown at 1c in order to prevent the anticurl strip 21b from too noticeably showing through on the face ,of the collar.
  • the extra lining 1c is stiffened but notfused.
  • is sewn as indicated by Go to the lining Tc.
  • the structure shown in Figures 7 and 8 is intended primarily for non-fused collars.
  • the lining 7c may be tapered by weaving it as a narrow fabric, so cutting it that the edge la of Figure 7 is a selvage and reducing the size and a number of warp ends as the selvage is approached.
  • the bielastic anticurl strip comprises, as mentioned above, a flexible element permanently resistant to compression along its length and a stretched elastic element secured in permanently tension-creating condition to the compression-resistant element.
  • isshownin Figures 9, 10, and 11; in this embodiment, the anticurl strip comprises a cotton tape 22 stiffened to, endow it with compression resistance. This tape may be about A! wide and about 0.008 to 0.010" thick, for example. Secured to this cotton strip by the stitch 24 is a rubber tape 23 whose initial length is approximately indicated, as an example, just below the elevation of Figure 10 by the strip 23A. That is to say, the tape 23A before attaching to the cotton tape 22 has a length, for example, of some to of its stretched length after incorporation in the bielastic structure.
  • the amount of stretch of the rubber tape is highly variable, depending on the quality of the rubber, its cross-sectional area, and the kind of collar and collar fabric into which it is to be put.
  • the rubber tape may be of the order of /8 Wide and may have a thickness e. g. of about 0.010" to 0.012.
  • the quality of rubber tape known in the trade as garment tape is suitable.
  • the structure shown in Figures 9 to 12, inclusive, has been found to work very satisfactorily in fused collars. I have found that in some cases it is sufficient to use thebielastic strip 2i only in the region shown at 2
  • a suitable stiffening material for the cotton tape I have found to be the so-called epoxy resins or polyester resins. However, a less permanent stiffening can also be employed in fused collars where the fused material to which the bielastic strip is sewn furnishes some of the compressionresistance.
  • the bielastic strip of Figures 9 and 10 is shown in a straightened configuration more or less like the configuration it assumes in the finished collar. But when such strips are free. they assume a helical shape as illustrated in Figure 12.
  • the diameter of the helix thus formed may be, for example, to 1 or more in a bielastic strip intended for fused collars.
  • a suitable monofil for this purpose is nylon monofil of about 0.010 in diameter. It is. preferable in this case to make the wefts 43A and 44A of nylon yarn instead of cotton. This structure, however, is not easy to weave on account of slippage.
  • Figure 15,1 have shown a modification in which a nylon tape is 'usedwhosewarps 50 are monofils about 0.010" indiameter and whose weft yarns 5
  • Arubber stri 23 is sewn to this nylon tape by the stitch 24, just as in Figures 9, and 11. It will be understood once again that the rubberstrip 23 is appropriately strentched at the time it is sewn to the nylon tape.
  • resins maybe employed as adhesive to fix the weft yarns against slippage.
  • Allof the bielastic structures shown up to this point may be used in the locations at 2l-2la shown in Figure 2.
  • Figure 16 Ihave, as is shown in Figure 15,- the nylon monofils 50 and the stretched rubber strip 23 attached by means of the stitch 24, and also a group of ordinary. nylon. warp yarns on each side shown at 52,- all saidwarp yarns being woven into a ribbon by the, weft yarns 5
  • the added warp yarns 52 may be of 100 to 150 denier, for example.
  • the nylon ribbon-thus formed is fixed so as to prevent sliding of the weft yarns on the warp yarns by means of an appropriate resin. This fixing also imparts a lateral stability which I have foundparticularly desirable in non-fused collars.
  • the greater anticurling tendency in the neighborhoodof-the crotch will tend to overpower any excess anticurling tendency near the point thereby minimizing any tendency that the points may have to curve inward because of the anticurling forces.
  • the use of a variable tension in the rubber represents a significant improvement, in the anticurl structure.
  • the desired uniform stretch may be obtained when sewing the stiffened cottom tape 22. to the stretched rubber tape 23 by passing the cotton tape over a roll of defiite diameter and passing the rubber tape over another roll of smaller diameter which is coaxial with the first roll, in each case pressing the tape against the corresponding roll by means of idler rolls.
  • This arrangement provides a constant differential feed which produced the uniform stretch of the rubber as described in connection with Figures 9, to 12, inclusive.
  • the smaller roll which determines the rate of feed of the rubber tape instead of being coaxial with respect to the other roll, may be made eccentric with respect thereto, so that the rate of feed of the stretched elastic element will vary periodically, the period being determined by the length of bielastic strip into which the finished anticurl tape is to be cut up.
  • variable curvature inducing force which produces the result illustrated in Figure 18 arises from variable contractile force exerted by the stretched elastic element along the length of the anticurl strip, which variable contractile force arises from the variable elongation as described.
  • the method described above of maintianing a constant cross-section of the rubber tape and varying its elongation periodically is by far the best from the manufacturing standpoint
  • the bielastic structure having variable anticurling strength may be employed in other garments besides collars, for instance girdles, in which case the portion of the anticurling strip having the weakest curling strength would lie in the neighborhood of the top edge of the girdle and the strip itself would run downward from this top edge.
  • compression-resistant is used throughout this specification and the following claims in the sense that the object in question will not buckle or tend to shorten continuously under the compressive force induced by the stretched elastic element.
  • ordinary lightweight fabrics would not be compressionresistant in this sense because they would tend partly to buckle and more important would tend to shorten permanently after repeated washings. In this sense such lightweight ordinary fabrics are not compression-resistant.
  • the compression-resistant element may yield substantially under the compressive force induced by the stretched elastic element and still come within the ambit of the meaning of the expression "compression-resistant as used herein.
  • a practical way, for certain purposes, to make a bielastic element is to employ two strips of rubber one of which is properly stretched before cementing or otherwise applying it to the other.
  • the other strip of rubber which acts as the compression-resistant element, should preferably be thicker than the stretched elastic member or it should be made of a rubber of higher duronieter hardness, or both. It is understood that the term compression-resistant member is intended to cover also substances of the sort which, after having once been initially compressed by the initial tension of the stretched elastic member, will not subsequently tend to shorten to any material extent, and will not, moreover, tend to buckle.
  • a device for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled comprising in combination a flexible fabric strip including at least one monofilament consisting of plastic material and being compression-resistant in axial direction, said monofllarnent extending in longitudinal direction of said fabric strip and being incorporated therein so as to make said fabric strip compressionresistant, and an elastic strip-shaped element fastened to one face of said flexible compressionresistant fabric strip in permanently stretched tension-creating condition so as to induce curvature in said compression-resistant flexible fabric strip and hence a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which'the same is assembled, said curvature being in the direction of that face of said compression-resistant flexible fabric strip to which the said elastic strip-shaped element is fastened.
  • a device for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled comprising in combination a flexible compression-resistant fabric strip; and a plurality of parallel elastic strands each fastened to one and the same face of said flexible compression-resistant fabric strip in permanently stretched tension-creating condition so as to induce curvature in said compression-resistant flexible fabric strip and hence a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curvature being in the direction of that face of said compression-resistant flexible fabric strip to which the said elastic strands are fastened.
  • a device for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled said device comprising in combination a thin flexible compression-resistant element; and a stretched elastic element having a tension varying along its length and fastened in such stretched tension-creating condition to one face of said thin flexible compression-resistant element, thus inducing different curvatures in said thin flexible compression-resistant element along the length thereof and hence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curving tendency varying along the length of said thin flexible compression-resistant element and being in the direction of that face of said thin flexible compression resistant element to which the said elastic element is fastened.
  • a device for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled said device comprising in combination a thin flexible compression-resistant fabric strip; and a stretched elastic element having a tension varying along its length and fastened in such stretched tension-creating condition to one face of said thin flexible compression-resistant fabric strip, thus inducing different curvatures in said thin flexible compression-resistant fabric strip along the length thereof and hence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curving tendency varying along the length of said thin flexible compression-resistant fabric strip and being in the direction of that face of said thin flexible compression-resistant fabric strip to which the said elastic element is fastened.
  • a device for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled comprising in combination a thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element; and a stretched elastic-strip-shaped element having a tension varying along its length and fastened in such stretched tension-creating condition to one face of said thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element, thus inducing different curvatures in said thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element along the length thereof and hence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curving tendency varying along the length of said thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element and being in the direction of that face of said thin flexible compression-resistant stripearn-7 :shapedel'ement to which the said elastic stripshaped' element is fastened.
  • a strip-shaped device for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled, said device comprising in combination a thin flexible compression-resistant strip; and a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a stretch diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end.
  • a device for inducing a curving tendency in c a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with which said device is eventually assembled said device comprising in combination a thin flexible compression-resistant strip; and a stretched elastic element having a tension dimin ishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end of said elastic element and fastened in such stretched tension-creating condition to one face of said thin flexible compression-resistant strip,
  • pliesmeans for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant element located along a front edge of the collar in substantially fixed rel'atlon to said collar point; and a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof and incorporated in said collar in such permanently stretched tension-creating condition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanently compression-resistant element between said flexible permanently compression-resistant element and the inner collar face and extending along said front edge of the collar from a point near the crotch of the collar toward the collar point with said first-mentioned end of said elastic strip-shaped element located near the crotch of the collar.
  • a collar consisting of several collar plies sewn to each other along the front edges of the collar so as to form along said front edges inwardly turned compression-resistant stiffening seam portions extending from the crotch of the collar to the collar points, means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means being incorporated in said collar and including a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in'the region of the other end thereof and secured in 'such permanently stretched tension-creating condition to an inwardly turned compression-resistant seam portion along a front edge of the collar, extending from a point near the crotch of said collar toward the collar point with said first-mentioned end of said elastic strip-shaped element located near the crotch of the collar and located betweensaid inwardly turned compression-resistant seam portion and the inner collar ply.
  • a collar consisting of one or more fabric plies, means for opposing the tendency .of a collar point to curl away from 'thebody of the wearer, said means comprising a flexible permanently stiffened compression-resistant fabric strip located along a front edge of the collar in substantially fixed relation to said collar point; and a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum'in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof and incorporated in said collar in which permanently stretched tensionreating condition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanently stiffened compression-resistant fabric strip between said flexible permanently stiffened compression-resistant fabric strip and the inner collar face and extending along said front edge of the collar from a point near the crotch of the collar toward the collar point with said first mentioned end of said elastic strip-shaped element located near the crotch of the coliar.
  • a collar consisting of one or more fabric plies, means for opposing thetendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant element located in the neighborhood of said collar point in substantially fixed relation to said collar point, and a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof and incorporated in said collar in such permanently stretched tensioncreating condition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanently compression-resistant element in the neighborhood of said collar point extending at least approximately toward the same and located between said flexible permanently compression-resistant element and the inner collar face with said first-mentioned end of said elastic strip-shaped element located further from the collar point and said other end thereof located nearer to the collar point.
  • a collar including an outer collar ply, an inner collar ply and an interposed lining ply, means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant element incorporated in said collar located in the neighborhood of said collar point between said lining ply and said inner ply of said collar in substantially fixed relation to said collar point; and a stretched elastic stripshaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof and incorporated in said collar in such permanently stretched tension-creating condition and secured in such position to said flexible permanently compression-resistant element in the neighborhood of said collar point extending at least approximately toward the same and located 1 1 between said compression-resistant element and the inner collar ply with said first-mentioned end of said elastic strip-shaped element located further from the collar point and said other end thereof located near to the collar point.
  • a collar including an outer and an inner collar ply, means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant element incorporated in said collar located between said collar plies in the neighborhood of said collar point in substantially fixed relation to said collar point; and a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof and incor-- porated in said collar in such permanently stretched tension-creating condition to said flexible permanently compression-resistant element in the neighborhood of said collar point extending at least approximately toward the same and located between said compression-resistant element and the inner collar ply with said firstmentioned end of said elastic strip-shaped element located further from the collar point and said other end thereof located nearer to the collar point.
  • means for opposing thetendenoy of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer said means being incorporated in said collar and including a stretched elastic strip-shaped element having a tension diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end of a minimum in the region of the other end thereof and secured in such permanently stretched tension-creating condition to an inwardly turned stiifening seam portion in the neighborhood of said collar point extending toward the same and located between said inwardly turned seam portion and the inner collar ply with said first-mentioned end of said elastic stripshaped element located further from the collar point and said other end thereof located nearer to the collar point.
  • a collar consisting of one or more plies and having edge seams, means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means being permanently incorporated in said collar and including a per! manently elastically stressed elastic strip-shaped element having an elastic stress diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof, thereby creating in said strip-shaped element a curving tendency which is in the direction of one face of said strip-shaped element and which diminishes from said one end to said other end thereof, said elastically stressed elastic stripshaped element secured in such elastically stressed condition in the collar along an edge seam thereof extending toward the point of said collar with said other end of said elastic stripshaped element located near the point of the collar and with said one face thereof facing the inner face of the collar.
  • means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer said means being permanently incorporated in said collar and including a permanently elastically stressed elastic strip-shaped element having an elastic stress diminishing from a maximum in the region of one end to a minimum in the region of the other end thereof, thereby creating in said strip-shaped element a curving tendency which is in the direction of one face of said strip-shaped element and which diminishes from said one end to said other end thereof, said elastically stressed elastic strip-shaped element secured in such permanently elastically stressed condition in the collar along one of the seams thereof and extending along a front edge of the collar from a point near the crotch of said collar toward the collar point with said one end of said elastic strip-shaped element located near the crotch of the collar and with said one face thereof facing the inner face of the collar.

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2849720A (en) * 1956-01-12 1958-09-02 Endsdown Company Inc Anticurl device

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2849720A (en) * 1956-01-12 1958-09-02 Endsdown Company Inc Anticurl device

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