US2849719A

US2849719A - Anticurl devices for garment parts

Info

Publication number: US2849719A
Application number: US550254A
Authority: US
Inventors: Loew Theodore
Original assignee: Endsdown Co Inc
Current assignee: Endsdown Co Inc
Priority date: 1955-12-01
Filing date: 1955-12-01
Publication date: 1958-09-02
Anticipated expiration: 1975-09-02

Description

T. LOEW Ewa ANTICURL DEVICES FOR GARMENT PARTS Filed Dec; 1, 1955 sept, z, 1958 Po//vr ,j F 6. 5 A;

IN VEN TOR.

United States Patent ANTICURL DEVICES FDR GARMENT PARTS Theodore Loew, Stamford, Conn., assigner, by mesne assignments, to Endsdown Company, Inc., New York,

Application December 1, 1955, Serial No. 550,254

13 Claims. (Cl. 2-132) Anticurl devices have been described in United States Patents 2,601,035, 2,601,036, 2,601,037, 2,601,038, and Reissue 23,617. In these patents is disclosed a stretched elastic member which is attached to a thin flexible compression-resistant member in order to produce a curling tendency to oppose the curling tendency exerted on the garment part when worn. The object of the present invention is to provide certain improvements in such anticurl devices.

It was customary to make the thin flexible compressionresistant member disclosed in the above patents in practice out of nylon in strips having a width of approximately 1A; inch and a thickness of 0.0ll-0.012 of an inch. These anticurl strips were produced for fused collars in the edge position, as indicated in the 4drawings of U. S. Patent No. 2,601,035. Under these circumstances the nylon strip functioned satisfactorily.

In the edge position of a fused collar it was found necessary to use relatively high stresses in the rubber, e. g. heat-resistant garment rubber having a thickness of approximately 0.030 inch and a width of approximately 1/8 inch. This rubber was given an average stretch of 75- 100% and a maximum stretch near one end of the strip of approximately double this average. Such high stresses were desired in order to produce fully adequate anticurl power when the strip is in the edge position of the collar.

Satisfactory results were obtained in this way in fused collars, but it was found that the nylon strip did not have suficient wet-strength under these circumstances when placed in the edge position of a soft collar. That is to say, the structure of a fused collar along its edges gives support to the anticurl strip when laundered, which made the use of nylon satisfactory, but in a soft collar this support is lacking.

It has been found that if such anticurl strips are placed in a pocket in the diagonal position (see Fig. 7 of Patent No.l 2,601,038), much lower forces in the rubber can be used successfully. Thus, it has been found that using rubber of approximately 0.017 inch in thickness and approximately 1/s inch in width and having an average stretch of from ISS-40% and a maximum stretch in the neighborhood of double this average, adequate forces are obtained for preventing curling of soft collars when used in this diagonal position. But there is an objection to the use of non-removable anticurl strips in the diagonal position in that they tend to show through on the outer face of the collar.

One of the objects of the present invention is to improve the thin flexible compression-resistant member of the above combination of rubber and plastic,

Another object of the present invention is to reduce the tendency of the anticurl strip to show through on the outer face of the collar when the strip is placed in the diagonal position.

The rst objective is achieved by using a compressionresistant plastic material which has a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus kof ice at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 F. Such a material has a wet-strength which is far superior'to that of nylon. Materials which meet these requirements are the plastic sold under the tradename Mylar and made by the DuPont Company, and also a plastic sold under the tradename Cronar and also sold yby 'the DuPont Company. The material is used in strips having a thickness of 0.0075 inch and a width in the neighborhood of 1A inch. The second of the above objectives is achieved by arranging the plastic compressionresistant strip so that it extends laterally at each of its free side edges beyond the rubber strip which is attached to the compression-resistant strip by a distance equal to at least three times the thickness of the rubber strip.

Reference may be made to the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. l is a side elevation, Fig. 2 is a plan View, and Fig. 3 is an end view of an anticurl strip made according to the present invention and intended to be used in a diagonal position in a soft or fused collar.

Y Fig. 4 shows a collar having the anticurl strip of the .present invention located therein in a diagonal position.

',Fig. 5 is a cross sectional View taken along line 5-5 of Fig. 4 and showing the pocket sewn to the back or inner ply, this pocket being designed to contain the antiof the type used in garments, e. g., in the waistband ofl shorts and pajama trousers. ln the embodiment shown, this strip in its unstretched condition is about s inch wide and about 0.017 inch thick. The length of the rubber strip is chosen so that when it is combined with the compression-resistant plastic strip by the stitches 11, the

rubber strip Willhave an average stretch of approximately 35-50%, depending upon the fabric of the collar and the design of the collar, as well as whether the collar is soft or fused. The stretch in the rubber strip is non-uniform, the pattern of stretch depending again on the particular use for which the anticurl device is designed, and Fig. 6 diagrammatically illustrates one possible variation in the stretch along the length of a rubber strip.

The exible compression-resistant member consists of the` plastic known as Mylar-or Cronar, as was pointed out above, and this ilexible compression-resistant strip has a width of approximately 1A; inch and a thickness of 0.0075 inch. As is clearly indicated` in Fig. 3, the strip 12 is grooved to a depth of approximately 0.003 inch to receive portions of the stitches 11 in this groove, so that these stitches will not exend beyond the bottom face of the strip 12, as viewed in Fig. 3. The rubber strip is preferably sewn centrally along one face of the compression-resistant strip 12, as indicated in Fig. 2, sothat the strip 12 will extend at its free side edges beyond each side edge of the rubber strip. In the illustrated example the strip 12 extends beyond the rubber strip 11 on each side by approximately 1746 inch, where the stretch in the rubber Ys substantially zero, viz. at the ends in the particular example illustrated, as is indicated in Fig. 6. The stretch is greater than this in other portions of the rubber where the rubber strip is narrowed bythe Poisson effect due to the stretch in the rubber. The thickness of the rubber may varyfrom approximately 17 mils to 19 mils. Thus, it Will be seen that the extension of the plastic strip 12 beyond the rubber strip 11 on each side of the latter is greater than three ltimes the thickness of the rubber. It

has "been" found` that these proportions tend to minimize the showing-through -of the strip as al whole. The reason for this is evident from Fig. 5 which is a sectional View of the collar portion fragmentarily indicated in Fig. 4.

In Fig. 4"the outer or facei'ply17 ofthe collar 18 is visible, and the anticurl strip located within the collar is' shown in dottedlines. Referring to Fig. 5, it will be seen that the increments by which the thickness of the collar increases and decreases are quite small. Thus, there is ay slight increase in the thickness ofthe collar where-the pocket material'lS is located. Then (neglectingthe'stitchforl the time being) there is a further increase' in thickness wherethe plastic12 begins, and there is a finalincrease in thickness where the rubber begins. vlt will'be noted from Fig. 5 that these increases-in-thickness are veryslight'and furthermore are very gradual. Experimentshave shown that if the width ofthe pocket is just large enough to receive the anticurl device, e'. g., f/gv inch between pocket stitches 21 for a strip: inch'widefthen vthis structure prevents pressure from being applied to the stitch which otherwise tends to show through, particularly if the collar isstarched. Furthermore, the edges of the plastic strip 12 tend to ex under heavy ironing pressureso as to make the entire transition from normal collar thickness to maximum collar thickness at the center of the strip a gradual transi- 4 I collar ply and an interposed lining ply, means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer, said means comprising a tlexible permanently compression-resistant element incorporated in said collar located in the neighborhood of said collar point between said lining ply and said inner ply of said collar in substantially fixed relation to said collar point, said element having a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch and a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs-per square inch, `and said element vhaving a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%.andhaving a melting point of at least 480 F.; and an elastic stripshaped element incorporated in said collar in Apermanenttion,v thereby minimizing the highlights and showingthrough of the entire strip-and-pocket'structure on the faceor outer ply of the collar. The shapes which the collar takes when being pressed and when not being pressed are indicated in Figs. S'and 5A, respectively.

As is evident from Fig. 5, a lining ply 16 is located between the face ply 17 and the back ply 22 of the collar, and the pocket material 15 is stitched to the back ply 22 with the stitches 21, the pocket for the

anticurl strip

1,0, 12 being located between the pocket material 15 and the back ply 22 and between the rowsof stitches 21. Fig. 4 clearly illustrates the diagonal position of the anticurl strip in the collar 18.

I At the time that the present invention was first made, the plastic Mylar was not available in thicknesses greater than 0.0075 inch and this Athickness was not considered heavy enough for high tensions which were then used for anticurl strips in the edge positions of collars,. although this thickness is heavy enough for the diagonal position, as described above. Recently, however, the DuPont Company has made availableMylar in a. thickness of 0.010 inch. This heavier material can be used for yanticurl strips in the edge position, where much greater forces due tothe rubber are needed, and can also be used in wider form for anticurl strips in girdles, brassieres, etc. The present invention is not to be construed as limited to the specific quantitative or qualitative embodiments -described above.

I claim:

1.' In a collar'consisting of one or more fabric plies, means for opposing the tendency of a collar point to curl away from the body of the wearer,- said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant element located in the neighborhood of said collar point in substantially `fixed* relation to said collar point, said element having atensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch and a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs.' per square inch, and said element having a moisture absorption of approximately .0.3% and a melting point of atleast 480 F., and an `elastic strip-shaped element incorporated in said collar in permanently stretched tensioncreating condition and secured in such condition to said flexible permanently compression-resistant element in the neighborhood.. of said collar point. extending at. least approximately toward the same and located between .said tlexible permanently compression-resistant `element and the inner collar face.

2. In acollai includingan `onter'collar:1ply,'.an inner 1y stretched tension-creating condition and secured in such condition to said llexible permanently compressionresistant element in the neighborhood of said collar point extending at least approximately toward the same and located between said compression-resistant elementand the inner collar ply.

3. In an article of wearing apparel, means for opposing the tendency of' said wearing apparel to curl away from the body of the wearer along an edge of said wearing apparel, said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistant element located in the neighborhood of said edge in substantially fixed relation to the same, said element having a tensile strength of atleast 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulusof at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of atleast 480 F.; and anV elastic strip-shaped element incorporated in said wearing apparel in permanently stretchedl tensioncreating condition and secured in such condition tosaid i' flexible permanently compression-resistant element inthe neighborhood of said edge extending at least approximately toward the same and located between said exible permanently compression-resistant element and the inner faceof said wearing apparel.

4. ln an article of wearing apparel, means for opposing the ,tendency of said wearing apparel to curl away from the body of the wearer along an edge of said Wearing apparel, said means comprising a flexible permanently compression-resistantA element located in the neighborhood of said edge in substantially fixed relation to the same, said element having a tensile strength of atleast 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorption `of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least' 480 F.; and an elastomer strip incorporated in said wearing apparel in permanently stretched tension-creating condition and secured in such condition tosaid flexible permanently `compression-resistant element in the neighborhood of said edge extending at least approximately toward the same and located between said llexible compression-resistant element and the inner face of said wearing apparel.

5. A device for inducing a curling tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an articleA of apparel with which said -device is eventually assembled,v said device comprising, in combination, a thin exible compressionresistant element having a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorptionf of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 Fa; and a stretched elastic element having a tension varying along its length and fastened in such stretched'tensioncreating condition to one face of said thin exible compression-resistant element, thus inducing different curvatures in said thin llexible compression-resistant element along the length thereof and hence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curving tendency varying along the length of said thin exible compressionresistant element and being in the direction ofthat face of `said thin flexible compression-resistant element to Whichthe said elastic element is fastened.

6. Adevice for inducing a curving tendency in a desired direction in a portion of an article of apparel with Which the device is eventually assembled, said device comprising, in combination, a thin flexible compressionresistant strip-shaped element having a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs, per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisure absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 F.; and a stretched elastic-strip-shaped element having a tension varying along its length and fastened in such stretched tension-creating condition to one face of said thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element, thus inducing different curvatures in said thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element along the length thereof and hence inducing a curving tendency in a portion of an article of wearing apparel with which the same is assembled, said curving tendency varying along the length of said thin flexible compression-resistant strip-shaped element and being in the direction of that face of said thin flexible compression-resistant stripshaped element to which said strip-shaped element is fastened.

7. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a exible compression-resistant strip having a width of approximately 1A inch and a thickness of 0.0075 inch; and a rubber strip xed in stretched condition centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extending along o-ne face thereof, said rubber strip having an average stretch of approximately 35-50% and having in its unstretched condition a Width of approximately 1A; inch and a thickness of approximately 0.0017 inch, so that said flexible compression-resistant strip has free side edge portions which extend beyond saidrubber strip.

8. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, an elongated compression-resistant, flexible strip; a rubber strip xed in stretched condition centrally along one face of said compression-resistant strip, said latter strip eX- tending at each of its side edge portions beyond said rubber strip by a distance which is greater than three times the thickness of the rubber strip.

9. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexible compression-resistant strip having a Width of approximately 1A inch; and an elongated rubber strip fixed centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extending along a face thereof, said rubber strip having in its unstretched condition a Width of approximately 1,1; inch and being fixed in stretched condition to said compression-resistant strip.

10. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexible compression-resistant strip having a Width of approximately 1A inch; and an elongated rubber strip fixed centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extending along a face thereof, said rubber strip having in its unstretched condition a Width of approximately 1/s inch and being fixed in stretched condition to said compressionresistant strip, said latter strip extending at each of its side edge portions beyond said rubber strip by a distance which is greater than three times the thickness of the rubber strip.

11. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexible compression-resistant strip having a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 F.; and a rubber strip fixed in stretched condition centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extending along one face thereof, said compression-resistant strip extending at each of its side edge portions beyond said rubber strip by a distance which is greater than three times the thickness of said rubber strip.

12. An anticurl device comprising, in combination, a flexible compression-resistant strip having a Width of approximately 1A inch and a thickness of approximately 0.0075 inch, said strip having a tensile strength of at least 17,000 lbs. per square inch, a tensile modulus of at least 450,000 lbs. per square inch, a moisture absorption of approximately 0.3%, and a melting point of at least 480 F.; and an elongated rubber strip fixed centrally to said compression-resistant strip and extending along a face thereof, said rubber strip being xed to said compressionresistant strip with an average stretch of approximately 35-50%, and said rubber strip having in its unstretched condition a width of approximately l inch and a thickness of approximately 0.0017 inch.

13. An elongated anticurl device comprising, in combination, a exible, compression-resistant strip having a width of approximately 1A inch and being formed in one of its faces with a substantially central longitudinal groove; and an elongated rubber strip stitched centrally to the other of said faces of said compression-resistant strip and extending along said other face thereof, said rubber strip having in its unstretched condition a width of approximately l; inch and being stitched in stretched condition to said compression-resistant strip, the stitching which connects said strips together being located in part in said groove of said one face of said compression-resistant strip.

References Cited in the le of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 328,207 Fulmer Oct. 13, 1885 2,601,035 Liebowitz lune 17, 1952 2,601,036 Liebowitz June 17, 1952 2,601,038 Liebowitz lune 17, 1952