USRE14617E - Assighoe - Google Patents

Description

J. CAVANAGH. METHOD 6F MAKING SHOES.

APPUCATION HLED OCT. 1. IBH.

Reissued Mar. 25, 1919.

JAMES GAVANAGH, OF IEOSTON, IQIALSSAUHUSETTS, ASSIGNQR, 5* T! -TS EE S-S'Wrll'l" T0 UNITED SHQE EAEAGI-IINERY OOEPGEATZGN, 0F FPAIEEt-SQ PORATION Ell? NEW-I 3 UNITED TBS lif'tz-tlllllll.

Specification of Reissued Letters Fatent. egg-E i s elated. September 12, 1916, Serial No. 8%{391-1, filed fircem'ber 3 9, 1211 1. Application for reissue filed Gccober l, 191?. Serial Islo. 1942,28.

T0 aZZ whom it may concern Be it known that 1, Jiatns GAVADLtGIL a citizen of the United. States, residing at Boss- 1 n,'1n ie county or wujo ant? irate of to tl "'Hil M t 1 hlassachusctts, have invented new and'use ful Improvements in Methods of ll'vlftlilllg Shoes of which the following is a specificm tion.

The present invention relates to methods of making shoes and an ob; ect oi the invention is to facilitate the manufacture of shoes and to reduce the cost thereof, particularly, in the making of welt and McKay shoes, by

- eliminating several of the skilled and costly operations incident to present shoe melting methods.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method of niainitaeturing shoes which not only effects an economy in the manufacturing cost but also insures uniformity, both in the it of the shoe and in its appearance.

sembled upon the last.

In. carrying out the process of the invention the shoe upper 2, which substantiall'v of the usual form, is molded at the toe one to ,form a pocket for the toe end of the last and it is preferably also i'nolded at the heel end. Intheillustrated Way of practising the invention the upper is molded together with the toe and heel stiffeners, to the shape which these parts have in a finished shoe, in. turned toe and heel seet fianges being shown as molded into proper shape to prepare them for attachment of the upper to an insole.

' The. last employed in mclring a shoe eccording to the method of this iirflention is capable of assuming a'positio-n, for example,

as shown in Fig. 2 inwhich it is somewhat shorter than the length Of the shoe for which I having a longitudinally extend. socket into which fits a movable rock bar 8 is end oi which is pivoted at 1'0 1* last. A pinion 9 located in. tical socket in the heel block 6 enit and may be rotated by a to cause relative movement hetween the toreg t and heel block in either direction. ole to which the upper is secured is G3. the usual form ei'nployed in the niainifecture ol the commercial shoe and. herein shown by way Of illustration as being an insole such as used in melting a Goodyear velt shoe. In the illustrated preferred method of manufacturing this ty e of snoe the insole 15 which is of a size cor 'esponcling to that of the shoe, is secured to the forepsri. portion only of the shortened last by tacks 18, iith the toe end of the insole flush with the toe end of the last and its heel portion extending beyond the rear end of the last. The molded upper 2 is then properly positioned on the last with its flanges 20 overlyhandle ing the insole and. the toe portion of the upper temporarily secured to the insole as by tacks 22, these tacks being shown as located approximately at the tip line on either side of the shoes thus preventing the tip from being displaced and also tending to sense the upper to hug the sides of the last du Eli later stretching operation. The lost, at this step in the process of manufacture is in shortened collapsed position W1? upper secured to the insole only at the no portion, is then extended longitudinally h r means of the handle 12 to a predeterininsid shoe to be produced. This has the eilleet of? stretching the upper lengthw se of the lest and conforming it to the lines of the last,

. particularly at the hall and alon the sides,

in manner similar to that in which such stretching is effected by niaohine'pnllingover and lasting. If desired the heel end of the nsole may remain outside the upper during the stret hing of tlieshoe and may size corresponding to the size of finished thereafter tucked into place under the heel seat flange 20. For this purpose the upper must be assembled with theheel seat flange spaced above. the tread face of the last far enough to allow the insole to be tucked in. I prefer, however, to assemble the work with the insole under both the toe and heel flanges and allow it to buckle upwardly in the shank. With the last remaining in lengthened position the heel seat portion of the upper will be tacked to the insole and the shoe may be sidelasted and fastened as, for example, in accordance with the method described in my prior United States Letters Patent No. 1,163,596, granted Dec. 751915; but in the manufacture of ineXpen-' sire shoes by the Goodyear welt process I believe it to be possible to omit the side last-. ing and satisfactorily draw the upper to the insole during the welting operation in which the usual welt is attached to the shoe as in the present commercial method of making shoes, and the shoe is then soled and finished in the usual manner. After the shoe has remained on the last long enough to set or acquire permanently the shape and size of the last, the last may be shortened and readily removed from the shoe Without straining the seams of the shoe or destroying its shape and appearance. va Y It will be noted that this method permits the manufacture of shoes at a less cost and it with greater facility than with the' present 'coi iniercial process since it'substitutes ftii' the skilled and therefore expensive lasting and pulling-over operations for shaping a shoe upper to a last, a molding operation and an upper stretching and drafting opera tion. The molding operation requires much less skill than does. pulling-overgand lasting and insures'f a more uniforn'i and better appearing product with a relativelylarger output for the same factor space and. machinery' equipment than can-be secured by lasting'the shoes in the usual'manner; the lengthening of the last with the shoe upper thereon also enables the shoe upper to be stretched and conformed to the last in a sufficiently ,efi'ective'manner to take theplace,

in the manufacture ofcheap footwear, of the stretching and conforming operations accomplished by pulling-over the shoe by hand, or machine work. It will further be noted that by shortening the last after the shoe is finished the shoe is easily removed from the last without danger of stretching theupper or weakening the seams as frequently happens with the use of the commercial block last.

' Having elescribed my invention, what I claim. as new and desire to secure by Letters Patentwf the, United States is v 1. That improvement in the art ofl makin'g slums which consists in molding the toe por-.

tion "of a shoe pper-to substantially the and heel collapsible last in collapsed position, extending said last to stretch and to draw the upper about said last, and then working the unmolded portion of the upper over upon said insole and securing it. i

2. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in molding the upper and toe stiffening materials of the toe' of a shoe upper to produce a toe pocket of substantially the shape which these parts have in the finished shoe, assembling an insole and said upper upon a longitudinally shortened last, temporarily securing the toe pocket at' its sides to said insole, lengthening shape which it is to have in the finished shoe, assembling an insole and said upper upon a;

said last to stretch and draft the upper about" saicl .last, and sewing the marginal edge of said upper to said insole along the sides and around the forepart.

3. That improyen'ient in the art of inak-.

ingshoes which consists in molding the toe' portion a shoe upper to substai'itially the shape which it is to have in the finished shoe including a flange inturned to, extend over the feather of the insole, assembling .an in sole and "said upper upon a last having its heel part displaced from its normal position .in the shoe relatively to the forepart,

[returning the said heel and foreparts to their normal positions in the shoe, thereby stretchingthe upper to a predetermined size correspondlng to the sweet the finished shoe to be produced, inturning remaining por- Q tions of the marginal edge of said upper over upon said insole and securing them in inturried position, and then soling and finthe shoe.

ishing i 4; hat improvement in the art of male ingshoes which consists in moldii-ig the toe andheel ends of a shoe upper to substantially. the shape whichfthese parts have ll\ the finished shoe, providing an inso-le,.securing the forepart otsaid insole to a .longi-J tudinally shortened.- last, assembling said 'upperupon the last, temporarily securing the toe portion of said upper to the insole,-

lengthening the last to stretch and draw the upper about said last, and l'astinguthe marginal edge ofsaid up er along, the sidesportion of the ast over upon theinsole.

shape which it is to. have in the finished shoe assembling an insole and said .upper upon a longitudinally shortened last, fastening the upper to the tread face ofthe insole'to form a toe pocket and holdiit in properly adjusted position at the tip line, lengthening said last 5. That improvement in the art of making. shoes which consists in molding the toe )oi'-' tion of a shoe upperto substantially the'12 o and thereby stretching the/upper to'a [)ltlllh 1 tel-mined size corl'espondii'ig tothu size of the finished shoe'to be produced, and draw lll g'tlllii fltilrgliial edge of said \lppenover 25 quent operatlons to complete the manufach, position, lengthening the last to a predetel-mined size corresponding to the size of the finished shoe to-be produced, andpermanently securing the upper to the insole while the last is in lengthened position.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in providing the toe portionmf a shoe upper with a permanent pocketto receive the toe endof a last, ap-

plying an insole and a shoe upper tathe last .while it is in collapsed position and with the toe portion of the last located in said pocket, extending said last in the shoe upper to stretch and to draw said upper about .thedast and-thereafter performing subseture of the shoe. a

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in permanently shaping the toe portion of a shoe upper in predetermined relation to the toe end ofv a collapsed last, applying an insole'together with said upper to the collasped last while it is colp lapsed with the toe portion of the last positioned by the toe portion of the shoe upper, extending said last in the shoe upper to stretch and' to draw the upper about said last,- attaching the upper to-the insole, and thereafter performing subsequent operations.

40 to" complete the manufacture of the shoe.

9. That improvement in the art of making shoeswhich consists in molding the upper and toe stifi'ening materials of the toe of a shoe to substantially the shape which the parts have in the finished shoe, assembling an insole and-said upper upon a longitudinally-shortened last, engthening saidlast, to stretch and to draw the upper about said last, and then working the unmolded por-' tion of the marginal edge of the upper over upon said insole and securing it. v v

- 10. That improvement in the art of makingshoes which consists in molding the upper and toe stiffening materials of the toe of a shoe upper to produce a toe pocket of substantially the shape which these parts have in the finished shoe, assembling an insole and said, upper upon a longitudinally shortened last,.temporarily securing the toe pocket at its sides to said insole, lengthening,

said last to stretch and draft the upper about said last, and. sewing the marginal edge of V said upper to said insole along the sides and around the forepart.

11. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in moldin the toe portion of a shoe upper to substantially the shape which it is to have in the finished shoe including a flange inturned to extend over the feather of the insole, assembling an.

insole, and said upper upon a longitudinally shortened last lengthening said last and thereby stretching the upper to a predeter:

mined size corresponding to the size of the finished shoe to'be produced, inturning the remaining portions of the marginal edge of said upper over upon said insole and secur ing them in inturned position, anl then soling and finishing the shoe. l

12. That improvement in the art of mak ing shoes which consists in molding the toe portion of shoe upper materials including toe stifi'ening stock to producea toe pocket having an inturned flange to lie over the feather and against the sewing rib of a welt shoe insole, assembling "said upper with .a

welt insole upon a longitudinally shortened last, lengthening the last to stretch and draft the upper, attaching a welt to the shoe and drawing the margin of the upper along the sides of the shoe over the insole during the welting operation, on the lengthened last;

13. That improvement in the art of mails? .and soling the shoe ing shoes which consists in molding the toe portion of shoe upper materials including toe stiffening stock to produce a toe pocket having an inturned flange to lie over the feather of an insole having a-sewingrib and molding theheel portion of the upper'materials incliiding the heel stiffening stock to substantially the shape which t se parts have in the finished shoe, assemblin said upper with the insole upon a longitu inally shortened last, lengthening the last to stretch and draft the upper between said molded ends, attaching a welt to the'shoe' frgn th heel seat on one side around the Jade to the heel seat on the other side andalrawing the margin of the stretched uppitir along'the sides of the shoe over the insole and fasten} ing it during the welting operation, and 501- ing the shoe, all while the shoe remainson the lengthened last. I

In testimony whereof I have-signed my name to the specification.

JAMES ChVANAGHQ

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