US971664A - Garment. - Google Patents

Description

J, CHEN.

GARMENT. APPLIUATION FILED APR. Z, -1910 Patented 00's. 4, 1910.

2 sHEBTswsHT-ET 1.

J, HEN.

GARMENT.

APPLIOATION FILED APB. Z, 1910.

Patanted 0612.4;,1910

z SHEETS-SHEET 2.

nicos Conn or NEW Yoeri, n. Y.

GAR-MEET,

Speei fic-ation o Letters Patent.

iutented (iet. at, Mitt?.V

Application filed April 2, 1910. Serial No. 552570.

To all whom it may eminem.

Be it known that neon Corien, n eltizen ot the United tltntes, residing1 at .the

borough of Brooklyn, city ot' Neiv York, in.

' the county ot Kings und Stute ont New "Yorin have invented certain new :nid useful linAv v proveniente in Garments, ot which the tollowing is e specification., reference being had to the accompanying drawings.

This invention reletes to improvements in garments and particularly to improvements n1 overcoats provided with duplex collars; :1nd an object of this invention ie to simplii'y and ctn-rijpen the construction oi solch duplex coll-urs.

A further object oft this invention is to provide n duplexr collar i'roin which one portion of the Collar may be readily detached without soeritieing any of the Wenringquzilitios ot the ovoreout, while n'niintuining` the fit itnd appearance thereof.

VIt has heretofore been Common to ineke ove'reoats provided with duplex. collars of .euch construction that when the collar is '.turned up ubout the nook of the Winner, as in inclement weather, the eolhir will have the form und appearance of what is known als the ,militnry or storm Coller und will, therefore be sightly in appearance, when either turned up or turned down. In the hitter position, the coller will have the up peux-ance of the usuel top or outer collar. 'Uvereoets provided with this type ot duplex collar as heretofore constructed have had the disadvantage that the military or storm coller part eennot he detached without destroying the appearance of the coller When it 'turned up. Ottentimes a retail dealer now inds himself unable to ineke n Sele of in overcozit provided with this old type of duplex collar, bee-euse the customer objeete to the appearance of the military collar or to the had it oi the collar when turned up.

'lt is :in object oi' this invention to provide u duplex coller iu which the objections of suoli :t customer muy be entirely avoided by merely detuehing the military Collar portion leaving the overeout provided with the usual top or outer eollzu: which may be turned up and will, when so turned, present a. sightly appearance. p,

In the drawings illustrating` the ln'ineiple ot' this invention andthe best inode now known to me ot'npplying that principle, Figure l is un elevation of the under-collar, n purt of the facing being broken niv-ny to show the body ol stitfening material bene: th; Fig. 2 is un edge view of what is shown in l" l g Fig. 3 is :in elevation ot the under-coller, n purt ot' un edge portionv thereol' being' folded beek upon and stitched to the body portion of the under-coller; Fig. t is n section on line .fb-ii of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is :in elevation oit the usual top or outer col lor, ports being` broken :iwuy to disclose the str'urturc beneath; Fig.' (3 shows the supplemental military Collin. in elevation; Fig. 7 is it section on the line B--B of Fig. with Atht1 Igarment body und garmentlining in place; Figi'. 8 ie n. section on the line C-C of Fig. (l `with the garment body and gurment lining in place; and Fig. 9 is a section similar to that shown in Fig. 7 but 'ivith the supplemental military collar detached and the longitnti-iel 'pleit of the under-eollar let out..

My new dupiex collar u consists ot the usual top or outer collar o, the supplemental militar)v collar o und the under-collar (Z, which is interposed between the top or outer eollur Z1 und the supplemental military collur t'. The under-collar consists of ai stitiener rif and the facing d of under-collar material on the buck thereof. lThe stiliener d is made ot' tivo similar pieces served to tether filone' the central line o and the facing d is likewise nmde of two similar ports sevved together along the Central line The etitiioner d and the facing d" are held together h v n zig-Zag line c of stitches;but

it ivill he readily understood that the stiii'- ener al' and the facing d may be etieh mode in one piece and .may be fastened togrether in any suitable manner.

'l`he,.next step in the manufacture of the under-Collar d is to told a part f* of an edge portion of the `undereollir buck upon the hody-portion ot' the sinne so as to form n longitudinal pleit En? fold f2, the facing of the lutter und the facing of the body-portion lying;4 in contuet with eneh other. The plait or fold is nuide nlonp' the line j und is secured by n lino ot stitches f. To that edge portion 5'/ ot the under-coller (Z which is opposite the edge portion u. part, f* of which is folded hoek, :is just described, there are sewed un edge of the ordinary top or outer coller 7) 21nd an edge. of the supplemental.

'as in inclement weather, the folded d of under-collar material (to which it is stitched at one edge, as has been just set out and is shown in Figs. 6, 7 and 8) and its free or loose edge c is folded and lies between the edge of the folded part f* and the body of the under-collar when the supplemental military collar is not in use, as is best indicated in Fig. 7 and on the left of Fig. 6. l/Vhen my new duplex collar is turned up, loose edge portion c is unfolded, as is clearly inhdica'ted inV Fig. 8 and on the right of To the edge bof the ordinary top or outer collar b is sewed the lining h of the garment; and the body c' edge fX of the folded part collar l (Figs. 7, 8 and 9). of the latter may be lining material or cloth or it may be of the same goods as those out of which the body z' is made.

In Fig. S my new duplex collar is shown turned up, thereby bringing into View the supplemental militarycollar c which hangs tlaplike from the edge ofthe under-Collard. It is perfectly obvious from an inspection of Fig. 8 that the supplemental military collar c may be readily detached from the undercollar (Z by cutting the line of stitches which hold these collars together. It will also be observed that, when my new collar is turned to bring -tlie supplemental military collar c into use, the turning of the collar occurs along the line f of stitches which hold the plait 7' ofthe under-collar to the body portion thereof and a certain biilkiness of material is produced at y'. The production of this bulkincss of material is common to all duplex collars of this type of which I am aware. lVhen the supplemental military collar r: is removed, this bulkiness becomes objectionable in a high degree; for, while a wearer may be willing to tolerate the bulkiiiess so long as he may 'have the use of the f* of the under,-

supplcinental military collar e, the removalY of the latter brings with it generally a demand that the bulkiness be removed.V In my new duplex collar this bulkiness may be removed simply by letting oiit the plait f, the line of stitches f being removed. Since the fai-ing fl of the body portion of the underof the latter is sewed to the.

The facing 62' collar d li'es against the facinfr of the folded edge portion f, it follows that, when the, plait f is let out by removing the stitches f, the facing of the folded edge portion b* and of the portion of the undencollar norniallyI covered .thereby will be brought to view. From this it results that, when the supplemental military collar c is removed and the top or outer collar() is turned up, the back of the latter presents a finished ap: pearaiice. F urther, the turn of the top or outer collar is made about the folded edge f of the under-collar and not about the line of stitches f, from which it results that all sense of bulkiness disappears (Fig. 9), In short, my new duplex collar acts in all respects as an ordinary collar, when the supplemental military collarand the lineof stitches f confining the longitudinal plait f are removed; and there then results a. collai of the ordinary construction comprising the usual top or outer collar I) and the undercollar el. In, this way the overcoat provided with my new duplex collar is a moie useful and salable article. Further, my new duplex collar is more simple in its construction, requires less labor to make and, is therefore, cheaper as compared with duplex collars heretofore made.

I claim;

A collar comprisin f the usual top oi outer collar, a stitfeiier-andD a facing of under-collar material secured to the back of said stift'- ener; said stiffener and facing having formed therein a longitudinal plait secured by stitches; and a supplemental military collar stitched to and overlying said facing.; said collar being constructed and arranged so that, upon removal of the supplemental military collar and the stitches securing said plait, a collar of the ordinary construction com rising the usual top" collar and under col ar will result.

In witness whereof I hereunto set my' hand in the presence of the two undersigned witnesses at New York city, N. Y., this thirty-rst day of March, 1910.

JACOB COHEN. Vitnesses:

SAMUEL BELL THOMAS, SALVATORE (licnoNn.

Images