US875614A - Eyelet or embroidery stitching machine. - Google Patents

Description

EYELET OR EMBROIDERY STITGHING MACHINE.

I'PLICATION FILED KAY 26,1903. A 4 SKBETS-SHBET 14 :5 WITNIESSES: V v INVENTOR:

ffM/fi fm/ No. 875,614. PATENTED DEG. 31.1907.

w. N. PARKES.

EYBLET OR EMBROIDERY STITCHING MACHINE.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

APPLICATION FILED HAY 26.1803.

. NVENTOR:

"1W Afir/Qj ATTORNEY No. 875,614. PATENTBD DEC. 31, 1907.

. W. N. PARKES.

EYELET 0R EMBROIDERY STITGHING MAGHTNB.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 26,1903.

. 4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.-

LHZZ NM w w an No. 875,614. PATENTED 11130.31, 1907.

w. N. PARKES. BYELET 0R EMBROIDERY STITGHING MACHINE.

L 9 APP IGATION FILED MAY 26 1 03 4 S E TS E INVENTOR:

ATTO HEY Tocll whom it may concern: .Be 't known that I, WILLIAM N. Panxes, a citizen of the United States, residing in Brook] county of Kings, and State of New 6 York, ave invented a'new and useful Improvement in Efyelet or Embroidery Stitch- 'mg Machines, which the following is a descri tion. V

invention relates to machines in which a relative lateral movement is prodnced between the'needle and the work.

a One of the main objects of the invention is .to rovidc improved means for stitching an .eye et without turning the work. I It is also an. object of the invention to provide means for automatically embroider- :lng various ornamental designs, the stitches oLwhich radiate completely around a coma: anon center; H r

20. With the above and other objects in view, :which will be seen from the description and drawings, my invention consists in the parts, -:elements, and combinations hereinafter dcec hscribedand claimed. I

2& Referring to the drawings: Figure 1 shows,

' in front elevation, so much of the machine as is deemed necessary to illustrate this view of my invention; Fig. 2 shows a rear elevation r of the machine; Fig. 3 shows a top plan view of the machine; Fig. 4 shows a ort1on of the LolOth-plate of the machine, i lustrating in 7 plan the lower clamp-plate of the workolder, and a part'of the mechanism for actu- 'g ;-.ating the same; Fig. 5 shows, in side elevau itiom-a detail illustrating the presscr-foot and tbs-upper clampplate of the work-holder; -,Fig. 6 shows in front elevation the parts of Fig. 5; Fig. 7 shows, in top plan, the presser- 1;; foot of Fig. 5, the clampplatc being re- .=moved;-Fig. 8 is a transverse vertical secz-tion on the line -S-8 of Fig. 5; Fig. 9 is a .'-1Iront elevation of the needle-bar driving ar m l gand plate; Fig. .10 is a longitudinal section (if 051 onthe line 10- 10; and Figs. 10 .to 17, lb inclusivefillustrate diagrammatieally'some of.

, ("G102 designs andeyelets;whichmaybe made,

i by tlm mechanism ofmy'invention. Fig. 18 be detail showingtho manner in which the as; -.-.opnnoction 52 is made adjustable.

'flfifptPrimarily, -I@dcsire= t.,understood that -:&Hanges may be. made-in the mechanism dnmin illustrated, which-,will enlarge the I I Specification of Letters Patent. I y e i n-mm an In 26,1803. Serial Ho.168.812.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

truss, 0F BROOKLYN, New YORK. -'antLa'r on smmomsar a'rrrcnmo momma.

Patented Dec. 31,1907.

scope and change the production of the machine, without departing from my invention or the spirit thereof. For example, the operating cams may be changed or altered as to their action, form, or construction; theworking osition of actuating parts of the workhold r may be automatically changed; and the mechanism, or a part thereof, may be used in combination with other mechanism for making buttonholes of various kinds.

Throughout this description, I will refer to the fields from which the stitches radiate, and by said term I mean to comprehend either the center, or point, from which each stitch radiates, or that space or opening, no matter what its form or shape may be, from which, or relatively to which, the stitches e).- tend outwardly into the body of the material or work.

In the draw s: the frame of the machine is indicate by 1, the same includin the usual overhanging arm cloth-plate and the head. The power sh'ait 2, as is usual, imparts to the needle-bar 3, its reciprocating movement in the head of the machine b any suitable means, said needle-bar .being carried in the needle-bar gate 3*, so as to receive a vibratory movement at an angle to its reciprocating movement. A usual form of switchcam such as is used in zig zag or overseamin machines, is attached to the upper shaft 0 the machine. This switchcam and other parts of usual construction it is not thought necessary to illustrate. A driving arm 4, is in enga ement with the said switchcam by means oi a usual switch-cam follower (not shown), which is carried by a stud 5, attached to the upper end of the arm 4, an opening 6, being formed in the arm of the machine to permit said engagement; The driving arm 4, is carried b a shaft], journaled m the under side 0 the overha 'ng arm and extending transversely thereof 1mm front to rear,.see r "s. 1, 2 and l0and at rear end is provi ed with a similarjdrivmg arm 8 ,Each cfthe arms 4 and 8, is' extended on opposite sides of the supporting shaft 7,thus(providing means for connecting thereto an a justable driving-plate, the one 9, being connected to the arm 4, and thepne 10 being connected to'the arm The forms'ofthe driving arms 4 and not of the essence of my invention; for, it will be clear that the same may be substantially straight, or may be formed on the arc of a circle, and such arcs may have the pivots 74 and 75, as their centers. Each of the driving-plates is provided with curved slots 11, one at each end, through which extend adjusting screws 12, for the purpose of fixing I said plates to the respective arms in any desired position. Each of the plates 9, and 10, is carried by a support 9*, pivoted centrally to its driving arm, as at 9, thus permitting the adjustments suggested, and the bosses 9, hold the plates away from the supports 9. Sec Fi 10.

Each of t e' driving-plates is provided with a longitudinal, curved slot 13, which are disposed in an arc of a circle about pivots 74 and 75, when the plates are in certain adjustments which will beex )lained further on in this specification. Sha t 2, is provided with an eccentric 14, which actuates a usual strap 16, pivoted to a bell-crank lever 17, one arm 18, of which is provided with a curved slot 19, in which is adjustably secured one end of a link 20, in any suitable manner, and the other end of which is connected to a pawlactuating arm 21, carrying at its upper end a pivoted pawl 22, which cooperates with the teeth of the ratchet wheel 23, fixed to a transverse shaft 24 journaled ina bracket 25, fixed in any suitable manner to the top of the overhanging arm.

The strap connection 16, comprises two parts, 14 is a band that completely encircles the eccentric and is retained on the periphery of the same in a usual manner. In the sides of this band is located pins 15', (only one of which is shown) and on said pins 1s pivoteda forked end 16 of the connection 16, (only one rong of said fork is shown). The pins are 0 course directly opposite each other, and there is snilicient c earance between the forked end of the )art 16 and the band 14 to permit of the sli 'lit lateral movement of the upper end of said part 16 necessary for the free action of the said connection between the eccentric and the bell crank lever 17. This form of connection is not new and applicant makes no claim to the same. Any suitable form of connection Ina beused between the eccentric and the bell crank lever 17. The shaft 24, has connected thereto at its front end a cam-disk 26, and at its rear end a cam disk 27. These disks 26, and 27, are grooved so as to produce the cam aths 28 and 29, respectivel The cams ormed in these disks are wiat are called heart shaped cams, but as is well known these heart shaped cams may varv greatly in the movement they transmit. l n the present form of my invention these cam grooves are so constructed that they run from the point 24* progressively in a direction away from the axis of the shaft 24 until the point 24' is reached. So it will be understood that they transmit a progressively reciprocating movement of a uniform speed to the parts that are in direct engagement with them. These cams are constructed to stitch or embroider the figures herein illustrated, but it will be clearly understood when these cams and the other parts to be described that they operate are considered, that an unlimited number of different shaped cams may be inserted and used in place of these, and the design of the embroidery or stitching thereby changed accordingly.

Suitably supported at a point in front of the shaf 24, is a stud-shaft 30, carried by a bracket'31, fixed to the arm of the machine, and journaled upon opposite ends of said stud-shaft 30, are the arms 32 and 33, both extending toward the rear end of the machihc and the arm 32, carrying a stud 34, which travels in the groove 28, of the disk 26, while the arm 33, carries a stud 35, which travels in the groove'29, of the disk 27. The stud 34, pivotally supports a rod formed in two parts, the part 37, sliding upon the part 36, and being adjustablethereon to a v extent desired by means of the thumb-screw 38, passing throu h a longitudinal slot 3!), in the part 37, and lieiug tapped into the )art 36. The lower end of the part 37, of the )ar,

pivotally connects with a twopart pitman,

tends into a shoe 5) which slides in the slot 13, of said driving-plate 9. The shoe 9 is constructed in a usual way, and provided with usual means for retaining it in the way or slot 13. 1

The stud 35, pivot-ally supports the upper end of a two-part rod, one part 44, sliding in the other part 45, and being adjustable relatively by means of the set-screw 46, passing through a longitudinal slot 47, in the part 45, and tapped into the part 44. At its lower end the part 45, is pivotall connected to the forward end of a link 48', t e pivotal stud'49, extending through the part 45, and link 48, and having a shoe 0 crating in the slot 13, of drivin -plate 10, in ikc manner as above described in connection with stud 43, and shoe 9*. Link 48, at 75, is ivotally connectedto the lever 50, fulcrumcil at 51, on the arm of the machine. having its other end connected to an adjustable pitman )2, which at its for ward end is pivotnlly connected to the bellcrank lever 53, fulcrumcd at 54, to thee-10thplate of the mac line.

r 58, said plates thus securely retaining the -work and constituting the work-holder. .--As

10 ,ball carried by the lower end of the lever .50,

$ the clamlp-plate to be removed, or slid back,

40 plate 66, is serrated at 6'7 and the flanges 68,

jviously, when the presser-bar islowered the 1 end and theg-ebypansed-gto exerhaensiona r The pit'man 52 is provided at one end with a ri ht hand thread and at its other end with a le t hand thread thathave seats in correspondingly threaded bores in cndpie-ces 52 6 and 52". This is a usual way of making a itman ad 'ustable, and the said ends aie dcked in t eir threaded seats by usual lock nuts seen in Fig. 2. vThe piece or bearing 52 .is adapted to embrace-in ausual manner a and the piece 52' is adapted in alike manner to embrace a ball carried byone army of the bellcranklever 53 l. The arm 55, of the bellrcrank is bifurcated l and the fork 56, thereofemhraces a block 57, ,p'ivotally supported .on thebottom of the slide-*late57", of the'work-holder (see Figs. 1 and 2.) Said slide-plate, supports the lowerclamp-plate 5B, of the work-holder and slides in ways 59, supported by the clothplate, and such ways confine said slide-plate and clamplate to a right-line reciprocation. The slide-p ate 57*,and clamp-plate 58','are connected, so as to move together, by means 36 of the'thumb screw 58 carried by the clampplate and extending through an open-end slot, in the slide-plate 57 i, and the clamp-nut 58', screwing upon the pin 58*, and engaging the slide-plate. This. construction enables at will, t ereby providin a free assage for the bobbin from the mac 'ne. a plate 58, at its forward end, is serratedat 60, and is provided with a needle-aperture 61. 85 The presser-bar 62, supports a foot 63, the

-horizontal portion of which carries anti-fric- .tion rolls 64; running in grooves or ways 65, ,in the hp er clamp-plate 66, vof the workholder. he bottom of the upper clampafford a means b which said clamplate 66, may be retaine upon the presser-ibot and also form the oovefifi, in which the rolls- 5 run and where y plate 66,1is retained from 15 lateral movement on thefoot. At its rear end the plate 66, is provided with a lug or extension 69. having an. aperture therein in which is set a li ht spring 7 0, fixed by a screw 71, to the shank portion of the foot 63. Ohi plate 66,will clamp the-work upon the plate 'theplate 58,.is moved the plate 66, will co l-re e y mor andt a t m n 2. 0; w l-b :1 i n the: plate; fifinsi ic e-remm. i w; en it IS raised fromt esvorl to its normal position shownin Elg fi. x 1

Injthe operation oithemachine tlon of the arms 32 and 33 is to keep the that they will befretained in thacam grooves. 65 These arms are of such length, and the movements transmitted from the cams so limited that the eli'ectof the movement of the studs is, atthe stitching point, substantiallythe same asit would be i the studs were, confined to move in a right line. only. It is obvious that other means might beamed for guiding the ends of the-connections 36 and fijg'tgthe cam grooves For example the well known means of using a. s1ideQ-for transmitting, vthe movement otthe cam could be used, but ,in .the present form of. my invention-the ,said

arms are preferred.

I 4 v Assuming now that the drivingarm 4 has no movement, and that the platesQ and 10 are adjusted as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, it will be seen that the operation of the machine will cause the cam groove 28 to reci rocate vertically the shoe 9 on which the end of the ,partflds pivoted, and because of the oblique position relative to the vertical of the way. 13 1 v the said part 9" will move laterally as it is reeip catedfand through the connection bet en it and the needle the said needle will be moved laterally. And as the cam disk 26 i is revolved from the movement of a ra'tchet/ wheel it will be readily understood that this lateral movement of said needle will be prossive, first in one direction and then in an osite direction. Of course the s I brief progressive reciprocating latera "move ment of the needle, may be increased ordecreased by adjusting the end of the connection20 in the way 19 from or towards the pivotof the beli crank lever in which said we. isformed' V y referring now to the cam groove 29 and the connection. between the came an the work carrier, it will be seen that when the machine is-operated as just described, the work carrier'will e reciprocated progressively at right angl to the lateral reciprocations of the needle, and it will now be understood that'means are present in this machine for producing automatically a relative univereal movement between the needle and the work, and-as these movements are under the co'ntrol pf two pattern cams it will be seen that an endless number of different designs may be automatically stitched. While the 116 cam ooves are, the same ininy prescntscec monste d cles amy t nt on. .:is, 1i wa t-he Path may be iabs luta s a .d amnt or m mma s sems tell 'xe lhllllilt ii ii seisl rasns ern ws Mos s-thatch?smea -he Nans'dpand,-.t at

heir st tesman -s s m r ease marc A t a-"a 'tlmloi-mk stxw'c mgwaya; 10 72, ls anaperture-prov ded 1n the presserfoot for thapassage..-o.tho needle. 2

and the plate 9 is so adjusted that the groove studs 34 and3 in their proper position so 13 is concentric with the pivot 74 when the 25 posits side of the same, an

- '60 to the vibrations 6. these parts are m vibration of 36 end of the connection 48 is ack of t produced. in the needle,

' upper end of the said arm is in its extreme position toward the needle, or in the direction of the arrow shown in Fig. 1, the needle will always be in the same position when moved in this direction so long as the end of theconnection 41 is above the pivot of the arm 4. It will be understood that when the parts are so adjusted all of the increase and decrease in the lateral the needle will be on the right side of a re-determined oint, when the end of sairfconr action is a ove said ivot, and of course when the said end is elow said pivot all of said increase will be on 16 the other side of said pivot. It is to be observed that here are means for increasing outwardly from a central point in one direction the extent'of the lateral vibration of the needle, and then decreasing towards said central oint the lateral vibration of said needle unt' said central point is reached again, when no lateral vibration of the needle takes place, and then increasing thesaid lateral vibration from said central oiiit to the op- (i then again decreasing said lateral vibration ofsaid needle until said central point is reached again.

Assuming now that the plate 10 is adjusted so that the segment way 13 formed therein is concentric with the pivot 75 when the upper end of the arm 8 is in its extreme lateral position toward the rear end of th machine, it will be seen that the work carrier will always be in the same position when the directly over the pivotof the arm 8, and that when said con nection is moved above said pivot, the work carrier will be vibrated from this central int or osition in a direction towards the lie machine, or from the operator.

And as the movement of the end of said connection 48 continues in this direction the vibration of the work carrier will increase from its said central position towards the back of 46 the machine. And of course when the re verse movement takes place this vibratory 'movement of the work carrier will decrease until the end of the connection 48 is over the pivot of the,arm 8. Then as the end of said connection moves below the pivot of said le-- ver 8 the vibratory movement of said work carrier increases on the opposite side of said central position, and then when the reverse movement takes place it decreases towards a said central position. It is thus seen that the same movements are produced in the "work carrier, under these ad ustments, as are but that the vibracarrier are at right angles of the needle. Thus it is seen that means are provided here for pro during a relative universal vibrato movement between the needle and the wo rli. And

' tions of the work amen it is to be observed that by the use 0t this movement stitches may be made to radiate out in any direction. from a given center, or around a iven field.

In malilng round eyelets in which the stitches radiate out from a center point such .for example as is indicated in Fig. 12, the movements of the needle and the work carrier are as above described. The parts are adjusted to make this evelet s that as the vibratorv movement of the needle decreases, the vibratory movement of the work carrier increases proportionately and outwardly from the common center of action of the needle and the work carrier, and this relative movement takes place during the making of stitches around one quarter of the eyelet or say from a to b in Fig. 12. W hen this po nt has been reached the cnd of the connection 41 will be over the pivot of the lever 4, and the end of the connection 48 will be in its extreme osition below the pivot of the arm'8. New t e reverse movement commences and the vibratory movement of the work carrier is decreased, and of the needle increased until the end of the connection 48 is over the pi vot of the arm 8, and the end of the connection .41 in its extreme position below the mvot of the arm 4, when the stitching will be at c in said Fig. 12. And from this point the movements are reversed again until (I is reached, and then they are a ain reversed until the start' point a has een reached when the e elet is com leted.

The designs indicated in Figs. 12 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, are all made by t 0 same mechanism herein illustrated, and without changing the shape of the cams. And other adjustments may be made, and other designs thereb reduced. The open fields in the center of d signs 13 and 14 are produced by adjusting the plates 9 and 10 laterally so the vibrations of the needle and the work carrier do not extend to the centcrpf the desi The difference in these designs is pr need by changing the relat ve positions cf the plates. The designs indicated in Figs. 15 and 16 are produced by ad usting the working position of the ends of the connections 41 and 48 so the work relative more to one side than the ot er of the pivots of the arms 4 and 8. The working positions of these parts may be ad mated by means of the thumb nut 38, and the thumb nut 46.

'Other' variation may be made in the designs stitched, by other ad; ustments in the mechanism. For example the angular position of one of the cams relative to the other may be changed by means of the screws that secure said cams to their shafts, see ig. 3. And it is obvious that an change in the relative angular positions 0 these came will change the shape of the design stitched. It

amen

' is thus seen that there is a wide scope in'this machine without changing the shape of the cams, but it is to be understood that by changin the shape of said cams there is practically no limit to the number of different designs that may be stitched or embroidered..

It is of course clear from the foregoing description, that the ratchet wheel 23 is the common actuator by means of which the mechanism that acts to vary the extent of the vibrations of the needle, and of the work holder is operated. And it is of course also clear that the cams operated the said b -ratchet wheel produce the desire chan e in the extent of the lateral vibrations o the needle and of the work holder or carrier. It is also understood that the spacing of the stitches around the desi n is secured by changing the extent of the stroke of the actuating pawl 22.

Figs. 10 and 11, illustrate two of many desi which may be produced by changing the orm of the cam-pat employed in formin the designs of the other figures.

aving thus described my invention what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising a needle that reciprocates in the direction of its length, a nonrotative work holder, a vibrating part acting upon one of these elements to produce relative movements between them in one direction, a second vibrating part acting upon one of these elements to produce relative movements between these parts in adirection at right angles to that given by the first-mentioned vibrating part, means for operating the vibrating parts to chan e the movements of the same to produce re ative movements between the needle and work holder radially completely around a given center there by stitching an eyelet without turning the I work.

2. A sewing machine comprising a recip rocating and laterally vibrating needle, a work holder vibrating at right angles to the direction in which said needle vibrates, means for vibrating said needle and work holder, and means for automatically changthe movements of the same to produce r dfative movements between the needle and work holder radially completely around a given center.

3. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle, a reciprocating work holder confined to move in a right line at right angles to the direction in which said needle vibrates, means for vibrating said needle and work holder, and means for automatically changing the movements of the same to produce relative movements between the needle and work holder" right angles to the lateral movements of said;

needle, and means for automatically ch in the movements of the needle and wor older, means for viho der to produce relative movements of a' uniform extent between the same radially completely around a given center.

A sewing machine comp a reciprocating and laterally moving need 0, a work holder that reciprocate-s at ri ht angles to the direction in which said nee e moves laterally, and a ratchet operated mechanism-for changir relatively the lateral movements of said nee e and the reciprocati movements of said work holder to pro uce relative movements between the same radially c/Jmpletely around a given center.

6. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibrating-needle, a

work holder that 'reciprocates at right angles to the direction in which said needle vibrates, and means for changing relatively the movements of said needle and work holder to produce relative movements between the same of varying extent radially completely around a given center.

7. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle, a work holder that vibrates at right angles to the direction in which said needle vibrates, means for changing relative] the vibratory movements of said needle an work holder to produce relative movements between the same radially com letely around a given can ter, and means or changing laterally the working position of one of said elements.

8. A sewing machine comprising a reciprocating and laterally vibrating needle, a work holder that vibrates at right a les tothe direction in which said needle vi rates, means for changing relatively the vibratory movements of said needle and-work holder to produce relative movements between the same radially com' letely around a given conter, and means or changing laterally tinworking position of said needle andworE holder.

9. In a sewing machine, a needle that reciprocates in the direction of its length, a work holder, an oscillating lever that 1s pivoted intermediate its ends, an auxiliary 1 plate adjustably mounted on said lever and a sliding part mounted on said plate, a connection between said sliding part'and the needle a second oscillating lever that is pivoted intermediate its ends, an auxiliary plate mounted adjustably on said second oscillat- J35 ing lever, a sliding part mounted on said plate, a connection between said sliding part i and the work holder, and a ratchet operated I mechanism for operating said sliding parts i to produce relative movements betweentlie needle and the work holder radially c0rnpletely around a given center.

10. A sewing machine comprising a recipmeeting and laterally vibrating needle, a work holder vibrating at right angles to the direction in which said needle vibrates, means for vibrating said needle and work 5 holder; and means for automatically chenging the movements of same to produce rela- 1 tire movements between the needle and work holder radially completely around a given center comprising two cams one of which controls the action of the needle vibrating means and the other the action of the work holder vibrating means.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto signed my name in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WHLIAM N. PARKES.

Witnesses:

CHAS. McC. CHAPMAN, M. B. HOARE.

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