US865640A - Method of manufacturing embroidery. - Google Patents

Method of manufacturing embroidery. Download PDF

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Publication number
US865640A
US865640A US35859907A US1907358599A US865640A US 865640 A US865640 A US 865640A US 35859907 A US35859907 A US 35859907A US 1907358599 A US1907358599 A US 1907358599A US 865640 A US865640 A US 865640A
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Prior art keywords
embroidery
bourette
threads
ground
work
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Expired - Lifetime
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US35859907A
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Hermann Haeberer
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Individual
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04CBRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/02Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof made from particular materials
    • D04C1/04Carbonised or like lace

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an improved method of manufacturing embroidery in accordance with which the embroidery is arranged on a specially prepared ground-work, the embroidery being afterwards liberated from the ground-work by the latter being corroded.
  • Embroidery which was to be manufactured by means of shuttle embroidering machines has hitherto been made on wool or silk material which was removed by corrosion after the production of the finished embroidery.
  • wool or silk threads On account of the great elasticity and smoothness of the wool or silk threads, such a ground-work or base is able to yield and give way towards all directions, and thus embroidery which is produced thereon cannot turn out so correctly as would be generally expected from machine work.
  • an important object of the presentinvention is to give the ground-work material greater firmness than has been the case hitherto, besides the property of its being able to be removed with caustics without injuring the embroidery.
  • the textile fabric of the ground-work material has hitherto been manufactured of wool or silk threads, which in themselves were smooth and elastic
  • a bourette thread which is made of waste silk, is employed which is provided with little knots, so-called burls or naps, which prevent the threads yielding or giving way during the process of embroidering.
  • the bourette threads are spun threads which are made of waste silk on machines for making thread (Streichgarnmaschinen).
  • This socalled bourette material with its characteristic burls or naps is only formed after raw silk has been worked up several times.
  • the material for pure silk thread is first combed out of the raw silk.
  • the remnant, socalled chapp is then obtained from which chapp silk thread is produced.
  • chapp is combed another remnant or waste is obtained, and this is called bourette.
  • This bourette waste receives the naps, which are essential for the present method, by its being frequently combed.
  • the bourette thread is spun on quite different machines as compared with those employed for pure silk and chapp.
  • Figure 1 represents a texture with weft A and warp B of bourette, with embroidery C thereon;
  • Fig. 2 represents a texture in which the weft threads only are of bourette, and
  • Fig. 3 shows a texture in which the warp threads only are of bourette.
  • textures such as are represented in Figs. 2 and 3 may also be employed, in which only the weft A or only the warp B are bourette threads, whereas the threads which cross these consist of a smooth material, for example worsted, which likewise is capable of removal by corrosion by means of soda or the like.
  • a method of manufacturing embroidery consisting in making a groundwork fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground-Work by corrosion.
  • a method of manufacturing embroidery consisting" in making a groundwork fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven as the weft, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground-work by cor rosion.
  • a method of manufacturing embroidery consisting in making a ground-work fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven as the warp, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground-work by corrosion.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Decoration Of Textiles (AREA)
  • Automatic Embroidering For Embroidered Or Tufted Products (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

No. 865,640. PATENTED SEPT. 10, 1907.
' H. HABERER.
METHOD OF MANUFACTURING EMBROIDERY. APPLICATION FILED FEB. 21. 1907.
PI C11- 'FIG 2 HERMANN HABERER, OF RODEWISCH, GERMANY.
METHOD OF MANUFACTURING EMBROIDERY.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Sept. 10, 1907,
Application filed February 21,1907. Serial No. 368,599.
To all whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, HERMANN I-IKBERER, a subject of the German Emperor, and residing at Rodewisch, i. V., Germany, have invented a certain new and useful Improved Method of Manufacturing Embroidery, of which the following is a specification.
The present invention relates to an improved method of manufacturing embroidery in accordance with which the embroidery is arranged on a specially prepared ground-work, the embroidery being afterwards liberated from the ground-work by the latter being corroded.
Embroidery which was to be manufactured by means of shuttle embroidering machines has hitherto been made on wool or silk material which was removed by corrosion after the production of the finished embroidery. On account of the great elasticity and smoothness of the wool or silk threads, such a ground-work or base is able to yield and give way towards all directions, and thus embroidery which is produced thereon cannot turn out so correctly as would be generally expected from machine work.
Now an important object of the presentinvention is to give the ground-work material greater firmness than has been the case hitherto, besides the property of its being able to be removed with caustics without injuring the embroidery. Namely, whereas the textile fabric of the ground-work material has hitherto been manufactured of wool or silk threads, which in themselves were smooth and elastic, in accordance with the present invention a bourette thread, which is made of waste silk, is employed which is provided with little knots, so-called burls or naps, which prevent the threads yielding or giving way during the process of embroidering. Moreover, as the bourette threads are in themselves but very slightly resilient, distortion of the tex ture cannot take place in the direction of the threads when they are put into or stretched in the embroidering machine. When the embroidery is finished, the texture which forms the base is removed in known manner, for example with soda or the like.
The bourette threads, the employment of which is an essential feature of the present invention, are spun threads which are made of waste silk on machines for making thread (Streichgarnmaschinen). This socalled bourette material with its characteristic burls or naps is only formed after raw silk has been worked up several times. The material for pure silk thread is first combed out of the raw silk. The remnant, socalled chapp, is then obtained from which chapp silk thread is produced. Now when chapp is combed another remnant or waste is obtained, and this is called bourette. This bourette waste receives the naps, which are essential for the present method, by its being frequently combed. The bourette thread is spun on quite different machines as compared with those employed for pure silk and chapp.
In order that the invention may be more clearly understood reference is made to the accompanying drawing in which some forms of a texture which are particularly suitable for forming the ground-work for embroidery made in accordance with the present invention are represented on an enlarged scale by way of example, and in which:
Figure 1 represents a texture with weft A and warp B of bourette, with embroidery C thereon; Fig. 2 represents a texture in which the weft threads only are of bourette, and Fig. 3 shows a texture in which the warp threads only are of bourette.
Referring to Fig. 1, in textures in which the weft and warp consist of bourette threads yielding is completely prevented by the naps which are present. I
' In order however to avoid offering too 'great resistance to the embroidery-needle, which indeed might cause the latter to break, textures such as are represented in Figs. 2 and 3 may also be employed, in which only the weft A or only the warp B are bourette threads, whereas the threads which cross these consist of a smooth material, for example worsted, which likewise is capable of removal by corrosion by means of soda or the like.
I am aware that bourette threads have been employed hitherto both for the warp and for the weft of textile materials in the manufacture of fabrics, and I therefore do not claim such manufacture broadly. I am also aware that embroidery has been produced by first embroidering vegetable fiber on a ground of animal fiber, and then dissolving the latter in a solution of chlorid of lime, and I therefore do not claim such a process broadly; but
I claim:
1. A method of manufacturing embroidery consisting in making a groundwork fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground-Work by corrosion.
2. A method of manufacturing embroidery consisting" in making a groundwork fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven as the weft, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground-work by cor rosion.
A method of manufacturing embroidery consisting in making a ground-work fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven as the warp, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground-work by corrosion.
l. A method of manufacturingembroidery consisting in making a groundwork fabric into which bourette threads of waste silk are woven as the weft and warp, in embroidering a pattern thereon and in removing said ground work by corrosion In testimony whereof I have signed my name in the presence of the two subscribing witnesses.
HERMANN HABERER.
Witnesses KARL WERNER, ALoIs W. ITMANN.
US35859907A 1907-02-21 1907-02-21 Method of manufacturing embroidery. Expired - Lifetime US865640A (en)

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4483265A (en) * 1982-09-27 1984-11-20 Weidmann Kathy A Cross-stitch design process
US5111760A (en) * 1989-06-22 1992-05-12 Garzone Jr Raymond G Double-embroidered lace
US20050229831A1 (en) * 2004-03-15 2005-10-20 Waterfield Laura M Hardanger machine embroidery and method

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4483265A (en) * 1982-09-27 1984-11-20 Weidmann Kathy A Cross-stitch design process
US5111760A (en) * 1989-06-22 1992-05-12 Garzone Jr Raymond G Double-embroidered lace
US20050229831A1 (en) * 2004-03-15 2005-10-20 Waterfield Laura M Hardanger machine embroidery and method
US7104208B2 (en) * 2004-03-15 2006-09-12 Waterfield Laura M Hardanger machine embroidery and method

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