US830699A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

PATENTED SEPT. 11,1906.

W. 'ARBETTER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED 00T.6. 1904.

4 SHEETSSHEBT 1.

No. 830,699. PATENTED SEPT. '11, 1906.

' W. ARBETTER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 0015. 1004.

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w Pa Q v k x y; w as W-H P1 NO- 830,699. PATENTED SEPT. 11, 1906.

W. ARBETTER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OCT-5. 1904.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

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n I ZLEJZ (67 6634537 a www No. 830,699. PATENTED SEPT. 11, 1906.

- I W. ARBETTER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 0OT.5. 1904.

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' WOLF'ARBETTER, OF CHELSEA MASSACHUSETTS. 'ASSIGNOR To ARBETTER FELLING MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, .MAssA OHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

. Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed October 5, 1904. Serial No. 227,218-

To all whom it may concern: Y

Be it known that I, WOLF Aannrrnaxa citizen of the United States, residing at Chelsea, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Im rovement in Sewing-Machines,- of which t e following description, in connection with the accompanying drawin s, "is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing This invention-isintended as animprovement on the class of machines represented in United States Patent N 0. 630,385, dated, January 7, 1902, .and devised more especially for felling with a blindstitch, the

being manipulated to make inv the fabrics to Fig. 3 is a detail of some be unitedsuch, for instance, as the inturned ed e of a lining andthe body of the material an stantiall the stitch made in first-class workby aand-needle, with the exception that I employ two threads, the needle atone stitch enteringthe lining and at the next stitch the body of the material to which the lining isto be connected. The machine is also ada ted for other work in themanufacture of c othing.

Figurel is a ri ht-hand side elevation of my improved mac 'ine, the presser-foot being shown as elevated and the bender elevated in its working position.

showing-the needle-carrier detached. 2

2". is a detail showing the arm'B detache of the means employed for controlling the line. of approach of the needle as'it enters the material in making is a detail of the I tached. Fig. 5 s

the felling-stitch, one thrust of the needle being in a line diagonal to the direction ofthe feed of the work, the needle at such time entering the lining orinturned portion of the fabric, and at the nextthrust of the needle it moves in a plane substantially arallel with the direction of feed," the needle t en entering the body of the garment or material to whic the inturned edge is being stitched. 4 slack-thread-control ing means belowthe line. 2:, Fig. 1. i 4 is a detail of the needle-carrying arm an needle.-

Fig. 5 is a front or left-hand end view of the machine shown in Fig. .1. Fig. 5' shows the topof the throatlate or worksup ort deowe the needle, etached needle Fig. 1 is a detail show the bobbin-case detached,

and enlarged together withthe bend. Fig. 6 is; a front view of the machine with some of the parts removed and other parts broken out to, show chiefly the means for actuating the take-up, eans for actuating the looptaker, and the work-feeding means. Fig, 7 is a vertical section in'the irregular line 1:, Fig. 1. Fig. 8 shows in side elevation the presser-foot and bender, the material being omitted between the same, the bender, however, being in its inoperative position. v Fig. 9 shows a section through the rear end of the resser-foot with the bender and the material thereon, the latter bending it preparatory to the entrance of thencedle into the body of the cloth. Fig. 10 is a lan view looking down on the presser-foot,- ig. 8, the sectionline a) showing the line of section for Fig. 9. Fig. 11 is a plan view looking down uponthe presser-foot, Fig. 9 showin however, the whole foot and the body of t e material and the, lining to be attached thereto, the path of movement ofthe needle in ma -the stitch being designated by the crossing1 otted lines. Fig. 12 shows the cam G detac ed. Fig. 13

shows the cam H detached. Figs. 14 to 19 tached and enlarged and in different positions' with relation tothe thread Fig. 20 shows the front face of the loop-taker with the bobbin-case removed. Fi 21 to 23 ig. 22 being in section in the line as, Fig. 21.

The framework of the essentially, of a bed-plate A, having risin therefrom an overhangingarm A, provide with a head A, that contains the working parts of the stitch-forming mechanism to be described, including not only the needle, but the under-thread carrier shown as a circularlymoving loop-taker cdiitained in a bobbin. The overhanging arm has be'arin to sustain the main shaft A, u on which is mount- .ed a driving-pulley A, t at may be connected with said shaft in any usual we and be driven either by a belt or fi e or suitable driving means.

' The shaft A has at its front end a bevelgear A, that en ages a smaller bevelcar A onan inclined s aft A, (show best in Fig. 6,) the lower end ofsaid shaft being sustained in a bearing of a framework A", that Patented Sept. 1 1, 1906.

machine consists,-

show the loop-taker and bobbin-case deby any 0t 1' usual supports the cooperative part or member of substantially, the longitudinal axis of the needle-carrier te be described. By locating the axis of the loop-taker to intersect the lonitudinal axis of the shaft carrying the neele-arm a lar er space is allowed for access to the bobbin when it is to be removed from the loop-taker, and the strain on the loop of thread While the loop-taker is passing therethrough isreduced, and consequently the liability of breaking thread during the stitchin The point of said loop-taker when ta 'ng a loop of needle-thread crosses the plane of movement of the curved needle a to be described, and back of the point of said needle. The back side of the loop-taker is convexed,'as shown in Fig. 6, to permit the oint of the curved needle in its. forward thrustto pass and cut the plane of movement of the point 02* of the loop-taker, this beingessential in order that said point may engage the loop of'needle-thread carried by the curvedneedl'e without any liability of the loop-taker contactin injuriously with the point of the need e. The shaft A has at its lower end a bevel-gear A, that engages a bevelegear A on the inclined loop-taker shaft and rotates said shaftat the .screw 0 This .stud-screwreceives over it proper speed, said loop-taker being rotated twice to each in-and-out thrust of the curved needle. ,The framework A, sustaining the looptaker, is connected with the lower end a of the head A by meansof suitable screws, one of which is -shdwn-at a, Fig. 6, by dotted lines, said framework being provided at its lower end with a cross-bar of, (see Fig. 1,) having a notch with which engages a projection a, of'the bobbin-cased, (see Fig. 16,)

the cross-bar and projection preventin the rotation with the loop-taker of the bo bincase containing the usual bobbin (shown in Fi 22) on which the thread is wound.

he front end of the shaft A has secured to it by a set-screw a (see Fig. 5) a disk'B,

upon which is adjustably secured by screws a a plate a, into which is screwed a studthe hub B of a block fast on a rod B hat ing secured to its lower end a socket B comos'ed of two parts shaped to embrace a ballike head 100, (see Fig. 2 extended outwardly from an arm B, that is jointed by a screw B with the slotted head B of the needie-carrier B, (see Fig. 1,) extended through and adapted to a bearingB, connected by screw 10 with a block B, attached to thelower end of a rockshaft B, to be described. 1 I find it desirable to steady and guide the rod B? in its lateral movements, and conseuently I have connected with the part a of ingfal slot in'whichsaid rod is guided.

.t e head by screws 0 a slotted plate-0 have inner end of the needle-carrying shaft B has connected thereto by a screw 1) an adjustable needle-carrying arm I), said arm being composed of two parts I) being pivoted upon the part b by a pivot 6 (see Fig. 4 the part b 'eing slotted, as rep resented at b, to receive a clamp-screw 12 by which to attach the part ofthe arm I) to the part of the arm I). This'construction permits the path of movement of the needle to be adjusted accurately to the loop-taker, that said 'needle may travel close .to the vconvexed back of the loop-taker as the latter enters the loop of thread thrown out from the needle. By slackening the screw a on the disk B the timing of the needlemay be regulated so that its point will terminate at exactly the proper position with relation to the loop-taker. The rock-shaft B in this instance of my invention is mounted in suitable bearings in the head A and its bottom plate a that said shaft may be oscillated b the part b 4 somewhat in order thatthe needle may at one 1 thrust enter the body material substantially parallel with the direction of the feed and with the inturned or folded edge of the lining or other inturned portion to be attached to the body material and at the next thrust may enterthe lining or infolded material at a slight angle or diagonally with relation to said edge and the direction of feed, as necessary when making the usual felling-stitch by hand. The shaft B is also capable of being reciprocated somewhat in the direction of its length in its b'earings, and near its end said shaft has adjustably connected thereto by a set-screw 23 an arm 0', provided at its extremity' with a roller 0 which is normallykept pressed by a spring a represented as roo IIO

coiled about said shaft and connected at one end with said collar and at its other end with stud c", rising from the head against the acting face of the needle-swinging cam 0. (Shownin detail, Fig. 3.) This cam is connected with orforms part ofa gear G, pivoted on a stud of the framework and rotated by a toothed gear 0, fast on the main shaft A said cam being rotated once to every two revolutionsof said main shaft.

The rock-shaft B has connected with it just above the late a of the head A a crossbar ciprovide at one end with an'adjusting device 0", shown as a screw (see Figs. 2 and 6) meet the stop 0, erected on the plate a the turning of said adjusting device limiting the extent of oscillation of the material in making the stitch needle when about to make its thrust in makthe particu that is sustained on said controlling device a,

sustained by plate at,

diagonal stitch having the path 'of movement of 'theneedle.

emcee.

just the proper position for the curved needle a when the same is about to enter the body substantiallyfolded edge of the lining or being attached to. the body parallel to the other material material.

Theheight of the cam 0* controls the extent of the rocking movement of the rock shaft B, and consequently determines the path of movement of the curved needle in ap.-' proaching the cloth when said needle is to make what is called the diagonal stitchthat is, when it enters the folded edge of the lining out of parallelism with relation to its folded edge when attaching the lining or whatever is being attached't'o the body material. By adjusting, however, the arm 0' on the rock-shaft the position occupied by the ing the diagonal stitch may be changed, this being desirable for some classes of goods. To define the osition of the curved needle to ar material being stitched, so that it will work in one or another are at a greater or less distance above the work-support, I employ a controlling device 0, shown as a screw extended through the plate a of the head, said screw contacting with the under side of the cross-bar c The under side of the cross-bar 0 near one end, is beveled (see Fig. 1) to constitute a toe and as the rock-shaft is turned after each stitch by the. cam c, acting on the roller 0,", the been made, the beveled part of the toe riding on the controlling device rafses the rock-shaft and needle so that the needle is moved into a higher are at its next thrust when the needle is to enter the folded edge and does not penetrate the body material. i A s ring cl, (shown only in Fig. 5,) con- 110Ct8( with a screw 13 and with a stud d used as a sort of cover for part of the apparatus working in the head of the machine, acts normally to keep the rock-shaft B? pressed downwardly andthe cross-bar in contact with the screw 0.

The plate a at the lower end of the head A Fig. 2, has a vertical hole that receives the threaded shank (l of the pressenfoot carrier'rl, said threaded shank being provided; above and below the plate a with suitable nuts 14 15, (see Figs. land 2,) by which to adjust the presser-foot carrier vertically into exactly its proper position with relationntlo e l'ront side of this presser-foot is grooved, as shown'by dotted lines, Fig. l, to-receive a slide (1, adapted to be connected with the presser-foot carrier by a screw (1 The slide has threaded holes for the reception of screws (see Fig. 1,) by which to attach thereto the shank (1 0i the presser-foot, which for the purposes of the special machine herein deand a heel the heel and the body of the presser-foot is a needle-throat d, the shape-of which is best shownin Figs. 10 and 11. sents athin edge next thebender and is notched, and the rear end of the throat is widened, as shown in Figs. 10 and 11, to afford space in which the ointof the needle may move after passing tlii'ough the material both when in its strai ht or in its diagonal thrust. (See dotted lines, Fig. 11.)

notch in said edge receives and prevents the cutting of the shuttle-thread connected with peculiar fconstruction. This upturned, I

This throat pre- The I the cloth when the material is being fed and avoids pressure on the thread as the take-up acts to set the stitchf The presser-foot has 'pivotally mounted thereon by a stud-screw (Z a throat-plate closer shown as a lever that maybe moved I between stops d" and (1, (shown by dotted lines, Fig. 11,) said stopsbeing formed by cutting a notch in the lower end of the slide concaved wardly an toward the folded edge of the material'w, to be stitched to the body material w", said I folded edge and aiding in slightly turning the same upwardly away from the body material just ahead of the stitching-point, thus aiding the point of the needle-in entering unerringly said folded edge without touching the body material.

The front end of the throat-plate closer is substantially circular, exceptingwhere it is notched or output to leave an edge'16, and b turning the throat-plate closer into the P031- tion Fig. 11 the space (i making the same of sufficient size for. the thickest goods but by turning the throat late closer into 1s arrested by the stop closed, as when thinnergoo s is bein stitched. The needle as it enters and retires from the lining, the inturned edge of which crosses the ed gel 6 and abuts the guiding edge d of the front end of the presser-foot, nearly touches the edge 16.

I believe that I am the first to make pro ace in a.

vision for closing the throat-s presser-foot to accommodate various different thicknesses of fabric, and this feature I intend to claim broadly, especially in a machine for felling automatically with a stitch such'as herein described; but I am not aware that the adjustment of the space of a throatplate is of any utilityin any other class of sewing-machine.

From the foregoing description it will be understood that the entire stitch-forming mechanism is su'stained from' the front end of the gooseneck and that it is all located at projection running under the may be enlarged d .The'front end of the presser-foot.has a (projection that extendsdown one and the same side of the material being stitched. i

The shape of the loop-taker or hook is shown in Figs. 14 to 20, and the same backof 5 its point 10 has a shoulder 68, that catches one-half of the loop.of the needle=thread 69 and carriesit about the bobbin-case a, having the projection a,- that coacts with the notch referred to in the bar a of the frame- .Work A to prevent the rotation of the bobbin-case with the loo -taker. The loop- 'taker has a heel 12, an the oint 10 of the loop-taker is bent downwardly. (See Figs. 16 and'17.) The under side of the loop-taker is somewhat conical, as represented, so that it may rotate in the concaved side of the needle while the latter is in the material and is being retracted therefrom. The needle thread between the eye of the nee le and the cloth is bulged out to form a loop as the needle is withdrawn, so that the point of the loop-taker may easily enter said loop. To renew the under or second thread, the work- I H man will remove the screw 10 and disconnect from rock-shaft B the bearing sustainlng the needle-carrier and move said bearing aside to thus afford access to the bobbin-case contained within the chamber of the looptaker. The lower end of the framework A has a plate A", that acts asa shield between the rotating loo taker and the material .being stitched, said plate also contacting with the upper side of the material being fed through the machine and supporting the material at that side opposite that on which the cloth-feeding means to be described acts. I havenow described all the parts of the machine sustained from the gooseneck with the exception of the take-up. This take-up consists, essentially, of a lever D, mounted on a stud D (see Fig. 6) and having a stud D (see dotted lines, Fig. 1,) that enters an irregular cam-groove DP, (shown onl by dotted lines, Fig. 6,) cutinthe rear side 0 the disk B, said cam im arting one com lete stroke to the take-up or each stitch.- ver is extended through a slot in the plate (1 and has at its end a hole through which is led the needle-thread t, the same bein taken from any suitable tension device to which the thread is led from a spool t The face of the plate (1 has a boss e, (see Fig. 5,) that receives a stud e, held adjustably in said bossby a screw e The outer end of the stud receives a fork 0 preferably of wire, the shape of which is best shown in Fig. 1, the arms of said fork occupying a horizontal osition and parallel each with the other. y adjusting the stud e longitudinally the fork may be placed thread that is to be ta en from the tension device and spool as the lower end of the take up is moved outwardly. The further in the fork the more slack thread that will be taken he take-up leat a greater or less distance from the plate d, when it is desired to var the amount of slack off during the outward movement of the le-" ver e, the thread taken off during the formation of the stitch inthe body material being stored up to be thereafter delivered to the needle as it makes the next stitch in the in folded material or lining.

The device coacting with the fork e for drawing ofi the needle-thread and delivering the slack to the needle at its diagonal thrust comprises, essentially, a lever e pivoted at e on an earextended backwardl from the plate (1. The upper end of this lever has connected therewithan arm e, to which is attached a spring 0, that actsnormally to" drawv the .lower end of said lever, forked .or

shaped as best shown in Fig. 4,inwardly, that it may move said fork inwardly as the needle is to be moved in its thrust where it'enters the infolded material or lining. To move this lever, however, to draw off the thread to be stored and given upfor the diagonal thrust of the needle, I have employed a rojecting -cam '6 (see Fig. 3,) attached to t e gear C.

Said cam when rotated for substantially one hundred and eight degrees .from the posi tions stud e carried by said lever e, and moves the forked lowerend 6 thereof outwardly, so that the needle-thread t, embraced by the notch e and located behind the fork e is brought in contact with the rear side of said fork sooner or later in its outward movement to thus draw more or less thread fromthe spool, according to'the position in which the fork e has been adjusted or occupies as the thread is bent for a greater distance about said fork, the closer the fork is to the head.

The needle a herein shown carried. by the portion 1) of the two-part needle-carrying arm, is grooved at its convexed side, the groove leading from the eye int-o the shank, (see dotted lines, Fig. 5 ,)and said needle near the lower end of the shank is surrounded by a band f. The needle-thread is led through said band therein along the groove in the convexed side of the needle and then through the eye of the needle from the convexed sidethereof.

The main shaft has a bevel-gear D", (see Fig. 1,)-that engages a bevel-gear D on an upright shaft D, the lower end of which below the bed-plate has abevel-gear D, that en- 1, Figs. 1 an v5, meets the roller and IIO gages a bevel gear Dion one end of a com- D connected by a gimbal-joint D with the 1 shaft D, and the left-hand end (see Fig. 1) of the intermediate part D of said shaft is also connected by a gimbal-joint D with a short shaft D, which shaft carries the feed-cam D". The gimbal-joints are provided that the shaft D, carrylng the feed-cam,-may rise and fall as re uired with the carriage E ,ca

rying the wor -support E.

7 adapted to be moved vertically in of the elbow-lever F has a studzF wit which isconnected a spring F, said spring bein attached at its opposite end to a threaded rod- F, made adjustable longitudinally by a nut F to thereby increase or'decrease the stress v of the s ring and cause the work on the plate vice for feeding the work, the

moved downwardly and backwardly by a:

i G, held b pressure-p (see dotted lines,

vertically by turni Y E to be orced upwardly against the under side of the material sustained during the feeding action by the resser-foot and the plate A.

To depress t e work-support E for the removal or alpplication, of the work, I employ a ate controller, shown as a cam f Fig. 1,) having a handle f 5 said cam when turned contacting with the end of the elbow-lever Fand pushing the same in the direction of the arrow thereon, thus depressing the work-support. The top of the work-support (shown in Fig. 5) has a series of slots 2, 3, and 4, in which rise and fall. the se arate feed-prongs 5-of the feeding device E, aving mon to sewing-machines. The prongs are carried by a yoke slotted at its lowerend to embrace and slide on a roller-stud E as said yoke is raised and .moved horizontally by cam D", employed for moving the feeding deyoke being spring E as the feed-dog retires from the yoki preparatory toagain reengaging the wor The machine is rovided with abender G' to act upon one s'i Fig. 9) and sli e of the work w (shown in htly bend-the work u wardly that the need so in approaching the work may enter and retire from the same side thereof as usual in blindstitching. The bender herein used is represented as a bar, the upper end of which rises in the enlarged space 8 of the slot 3 of the vwork'support orplate E. This bender is movable vertically in a guide y screws G to a fixedpart of the machine, and the lower end of the bender enters a two-part split clampv or socket G and is held therein by clamp-screws G" in an sition in which said bender may be adjusted the nut on the threaded part of the ender. It is very advantageous at. times, and especially when thin stock isbeing used, to be able to adjust the bender vertically with the greatest uicety with relation to the clamp carrying the same in order to thereby secure just sition forthe bender and stock when t e needle penetratesthe stock. The split clamp the roller or other-stud G nate strokes of the need the usual four motions comeach two thrusts of the .ver with t e'roller-stud G t siti n with relation to the inner edge of the y P cam H is acting a the pro er polever G, having its fulcrum at G", said lever at its inner end being forked (see Fig. 1 and provided witha stud G (shown by dotted ines, Figs. 1 and 7,) that enters a chamber 17 out in the face of the bender-movin cam G, fast on'the shaft G; The face oft 's cam is shown in 12, and the'chamber is concern 1 tricand. presents a flange varying in thickness, the inner wall of said flange acting on and moving the nder up and down.

Owing to the provision herein for the first time made by me, so fan as I am aware, of

moving the bender only lpreparatory to alterretiring from the material, such movement ing necessary, as it is desired only to bend the material when the needle is to penetrate the body of the material, I. have" provided means for holding the bender out of operation, stopping its. movement just before the needle is to be moved to penetrate the infolded edge or lining of the material to be stitched to the main partor body of the material. will be understood that the needle in its diagonal thrust is to penetrate only the lining or folded part and not the main body of the fabric to which the inturned edge or lining is to be stitched; but Whenever the needle is to engage the body of the material and not penetrate therethrough, but enter and emerge from the same side thereof, then the bender is necessary. In other words, the bender has one up-and-down movement to I needle. To render inoperative, therefore, the bender during alternate stitches, I have provided'bendcr-susending means, herein represented as a cam i I, (see Figs. 1 and 13,) said cam being connected with a .shaft H, having a gear H nlllesi hin with a pinion H on the shaft D?, the s a t tions of the'shaft D. The cam H has a flange H extended therefrom throughout 'a portion said flange being pointed at c direction of rotation of the of its periphery, one end in th I shaft H to en age the outer side of the projection H of tie lever G thus preventing any movement of said lever retires therefrom, said flan e when acting e in penetrating and being rotated once to two revoluuntil the flange the use of loo upon the rojection H sim ly holding the le ereof in such poflange forming the essential as to prevent that cam with said stud I When the inner side of the flan part of the cam om contacting e space connected with its lower end a screw-rod M, extended through a hole in the lever G and provided with a nut M is stretched, and the stress of said spring is exerted on the lever G 5 but said lever does not obey the spring, owing to the fact that the flange of the cam H prevents such action. When, however, the

, flange of the cam H retires from the stud H the spring M immediately acts and raises the io bender, it contacting at its upper end with the under side of the cloth. It will thus be seen that the bender meets the under side of the material to bend the same with a blow due to the force of the spring M, and,havmg r5 bent the material and the needle having penetrated the bent portion thereof and retired its inner end in proper position to meet the yoke as the same is retracted by the spring E The machine herein described is an improvement over the machine described in the United States patentreferred to, in that the rising-and-falling motion to provide for varying thicknesses of the material is dispensed with. I am enabled to do this by providing the rising-and-falling work-support having a feeding device movable therewith.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is Y.

1. In a machine of the class described, a spring-sustained work-support having a feed opening, a work-feeding device carried by said work-support, a resser-foot, means to actuate said Work-feeding device to feed the material over the work-support under the presser-foot, combined Wit stitch-forming means located above the material, and comprehending a curved threadcarryi ng needle ahd revoluble second thread-carrier topass its thread through a loop of needle-thread, means to reciprocate said needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the material, and means for moving said needle to insure its entering at one thrust the material passing the work-support and resser-foot, and at another thrust to entera portion of a superimposed ply of material moving between the work-support and fpresser-foot.

2. Ina machine of the class described, an unyielding presserfoot, a work-support having a feed-opening, a lever independent of said work-support and pivotally connected therewith, a spring acting on said lever to force the wor -support toward the presserfoot, combined with stitchforming means located above the material, and comprehending a reciprocable curved thread-carrying needle and a revoluble second thread-carrier to'pass'its thread through a loop of needlethread and form in the material a series of blind stitches.

3. In-a machine of the class described, a stationary presserfoot, a carriage, guideways to receive said carriage, a work-sup port sustained at the upper end of said carriage, a lever, a device connecting said lever and said carriage, a spring conm ctcd with said lever and acting normally to move the work-support toward said presser-foot stitchforming mechanism located wholly above the presser-foot and comprising a curved eye.

pointed thread-carrying needle and a revoluble looper, means to reciprocate said needle to enter and emerge from the same side of the material, and means for moving said needle to insure its entering at one thrust the m ateri al passing between the work support and resser-foot, and at another thrust to enter a ply of" material lying on the material that is clamped between the work-support and presser-foot, means to feed the material, and a device' acting on said lever to depress the work-support for the removal of or insertion of work.

4. In a machine of the'class described, a loop-taker, means to move it, a rock-shaft having a bearing, a needle-carrying shaft in" said bearing, said shaft having a two-part arm, one part adjustable on the other art, a

curved needle carried by the adjustab e part on said arm, and'means to turn said rockshaft between one and the next thrust of the needle, the adjustment of the movable part of said arm carrying said needle, providing for positioning the needle correctly with relation to the path of movement of the under side of the coacting loop-taker.

5. In a machine of the-class described, a rock-shaft having a bearing, a cross-bar carried by said rock-shaft, a needle-carrying shaft sustained by a bearing in said rockshaft, a needle in said needle-carrying shaft,

means to turn said rock-shaft between one and the next stitch, and an adjustable device to insure the elevation of said rock-shaft and the needle-carrying shaft .at alternate thrusts of the needle in the material.

6. In a machine of the class described, a rock-shaft having a bearing, a needle-carrying shaft sustained in the bearing of said rock-shaft, a needle in said needle-carrying shaft, a cam, and an arm connected with the upper end of said rock-shaft, a spring surrounding said rock-shaft and acting normally to keep said arm in contact'with said cam, said cam meeting said arm and turning said rock-shaft to place the needle in osition to enter the material for'its diagona thrust.

7. In a machine of the class described, stitch forming mechanism for making blindstitches, a spring-sustained work-support, a

- bender, and means for moving the same that its acting end may rise above the work-support Whatever the position of the work-support due to variations; in thickness of work.

- 8. In a machine of the class described, a

loop-taker, arock-shaft having a bearing, a

needle-carryin shaft mounted in said hear-- ing and provi ed with a needle, a rotating shaft having a disk provided with an adjustable plate having'a stud, a link embracin said stud, and means connecting said link with the needle-shaft, the adjustment of said plate so timing the movement of the needle that its point will terminate at exactly the proper position with relation to the looptaker. i v y 9. In a machine of'the-class described, a rock-shaft, havinga bearing at onetend, an arm connected with said rock-shaft near its other end, a roller carried by said arm, a needle-car n shaft mounted'in the bearing of saidro dk -s aft, and provided with a needle, and a needle-swinging cam'to .act on the roller of said arm to turn the rock-shaft and needle-carrying shaft, and means acting normally to maintain said rollerin' contact with said cam. 1 i 10, In amachine of the class described, a rock-shaft, havin a bearingat' one end, an

' arm connected with said rock-shaft near its carrying other end, a roller carried by said arm, a needle-carrying shaft mounted in the bearing of said rock-shaft and provided with a needle, a needle-swinging cam to act on the roller of said arm to turn the rock-shaft and needleshaft, means; acting. normally to maintam said roller in contact with said cam, a bar'connected with said rock-shaft, and an adjusting device to limit the extent of movement of said arm toward said cam.

shaft 1 only the lining.

12. In a machine of -the class described,.

stitch -forming mechanism comprising an e e-pointed needle and complemental undcrt read carrier both located at one side of the. material, means 'to actuate said stitch-forming mechanism a spring-sustained work-sup port to sustain the material, a bender, actuatlng means therefor to cause said bender to end the material at one stitch, and means to hold said bender in its inoperative position at a succeedingstitch. 13. In a machine of the class described,

, stitch forming mechanismcomprising a curved eye-pointed needle and a' complemental under-thread carrier, means to actua'tesaid needle that it may penetrate the materialfor alternate stitches 1n planes at different angles, a bender, and means to-cause said. bender to bend the material only when the needle is to enter the body of the material. I r

14, In a machine of the class described, a springsustained work-support having a ender-passage, a presser-foot having a space, a bender, and means to raise the bender through the bender: assage of the work-sup port to force part 0 the work into the s ace. of the presser-foot; combined with a',st1tch forming mechanism com rising a needle, a

'complemental rotatable oop-taker carrying a second thread, and means to reel rocate, said needle in the general direction-o move-' ment of the work over the work-support, the point of, the needle entering the work sustained by the bender.

15. In a machine of the class described,

-st1tch-forming mechanism to form a succession of blindstitchesin the material, a slotted work-sup ort having a bender-passage between its sl dts, said support presenting a surface occupying a positlon in a horizontal plane at right angles to said slots to support, 1n the same plane at opposite sides 0 said slots the material to be stitched, a presserfoot provided with a space above the benderipassage of the work-support, said foot also presenting a guiding edge for guiding a pl of material being blindstitched to materla on which it is laid, work-feeding mechanism v sustained below said work-support, mechantoo ismto actuate the work-feeding mechanism that It may rise through the slots in the worksu port abovethe up erside of said support, a ender located be ow the work-support, and means to move the bender to act upon the work and force a part thereof into the space of the resser-foot to be entered by the needle. j

16. In a machine of the class described,

means located wholly at one side of the material for forming a series of blindstitches, said means comprising an eyeointed thread- "carrying needle, and a revo uble loop-taker to control a second thread and carry the same through a of needle thread, a work-support, a carriage on which said worksupport is mounted, a guideway for said car' riage, means to move said carriage in said guideway, a yoke mounted on said carriage .and provided with feedoints, and means to carriage and cause move said yoke on sai said feed-points'to engage and move said material.

17'.- In a machine of theclass described, a

work-sufpport', a spring acting normally to keep sai work-support-in its elevated positron, a carriage, means to, move said carriage vertical] in said work-support, a yoke rovided wlth feed-p0ints, a compound s aft to stitch forming mechanism located wholly 1 above the material and adapted to make a series of blindstitches as described,-combined with a presserfoot to bear on the material, and means to vary the throat-space in I 5 the presser-foot to accomodate differences in thickness of goods.

19. In a machine of the class described, stitch forming mechanism located wholly above the material, a work-support to sus- 2 tain the material, means to cause the needle of said stitch-forming mechanism to penetrate the body of material in a line substantially parallel with the infoh'ed edge of a lining to be attached thereto, means to cause said needle at itsnext movement to P8118. trate the infolded lining, and means to draw off thread during the formation of the stitch in the body of the material and give up the slack so formed to the stitch made in the infolded edge of the lining. 7

20. In a machine of the class described,'a work-support, a curved eye-pointed needle, a needle-carrying shaft, means to sustain said shaft, means to turn said needle-carrying shaft that the needle may penetrate the goods, a resser-foot having a throat widened toward the rear end of said foot that the needle may have ample play in. said throat both when meeting the material at its straight and diagonal thrust.

21. Ina machine of the class described, a work-support, a curved eyepointed needle, -a needle-carrying shaft, means. to sustain said shaft, means to turn said needle-carrying shaft that the needle may penetrate the goods, a presser-foot having a wide throat and a curved guide located at the front end of the foot. Y

22. In a machine of the. class described, a work-support, a curved eye-pointed needle, a needle-carrying shaft, means to sustain saidshaft, means to turn said needle-carrying shaft that the needle may penetrate the goods, a presser-foot having a throat and a guiding edge and a lip extending beyond said edge and adapted to be interposed between the two pieces of material to be stitched together, said lip lifting the edge of the upper layer of material that the point of the curved needle may readily enter under said edge.

23. In a machineof the class described, a loop-taker, having, a bobbin-case and bobbin, means to sustain said loo taker that it may be turned in a diagonal irection, a vertical shaft having a'bearing at its lower-end, a

'p'resser-foot having a guiding edge combined needle-carrier. in said bearing, and a screw to detachably connect saidbearing to said shaft, the removal of the screw enabling the removal of the bearing to thus uncover the chamber of the loop-taker and enable access toibe had thereto to effect the change of bobbin-case and bobbin. 24. In a machine for blind stitching, a needle and complementary device for making blindstitches, a workesupport, a feeding device sustained by said work-support, a stationary resser-foot, a lever connected with said work-support and an adjustable spring connected with said lever tosustain the worksupport in a yielding manner, and a devicecoacting with said lever to lower and hold the work-support locked in its lowered position. 25. In a'machine of the class described, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism, a

5 with means to vary the throat-space in the presser-foot toeaccommodate differences in the thickness of goods, said means presenting a lipextended from the inner guiding edge of the presser-foot to separate, in advance of the stitching, the materials about to be stitched. i

26. In a machine of the class described, a work-support, a rock-shaft, a needle-carrier pivotally mounted on said shaft and provided with a needle, means to 'viliratesaid needle-carrier on said rock-shaft, an arm con-' nected with said rock-shaft, a cam, means to move the same that said cammay act on said armand turn said rock-shaft, a device acting IOO normally to retain said arm in the path of movement of said cam, a cross-bar connected with said rock-shaft,a spring acting normally to depress said rock-shaft, and a controlling device coactin with said cross-bar to raise the rock-shaft 1n its bearing.

27., In a machine of the class described, a work-support,a'rock-shaft, a needle-carrier I pivotally mounted on said shaft and providedwith a needle, means to vibrate said needle-carrier on said rock-shaft, an arm connected with said rock-shaft, a cam,-means to move the same thatsaid cam may act on said arm and turn said rock-shaft, a device acting normally to retain said arm in the path of movement of said earn, a cross-bar connected with said rock-shaft,a spring acting normally to depress said rock-shaft, and an adjustable controlling device coacting with said cross-bar to enable said rock-shaft to be rotated to a greater or less entent.

28. In a machine of the class described, a work-support, a rock-shaft, afneedle-carrier' .pivotally mounted on said shaft and provided with a needle, means to vibrate said needle-earner on said rock-shaft, an arm connected with said rock-shaft, a cafn, means to move the same that said cam ma act on said arm and turn said rock-shaft, a evice acting normally to retain said arm. in the path of justlng deviceto control the axial position of move said carriage vertically, 3

said rock-shaft when the needle is entering the material diagonally with relation to the line of feed.

' 29. In a machine of the class described, a presser-foot, a work-support, a rod having at one end a bearing, means to turn said rod about its longitudinal axis, a rock-shaft sustained in said bearing, a needle-carrying arm secured to one end of said rock-shaft, a second arm loosely pivoted'to the opposite end of said rock-shaft and provided with a ballshaped end, a rotatable shaft having a crank, a link connected at one end with said crank and having provision at its opposite end to embrace the ball of saidsecond arm.

30. In a machine of the class described, a block or bearing curved at its under side, a loop-taker containing a second thread, the shaft of said loop-taker be' sustained in said block, means to drive sai loop-taker, a

shaft having a bearing at oneend, a needle-- carrying rock-shaft located in said bearing and provided with an'eye-pointed needle carrying a thread and coacting with said looptaker, combined with a carriage, means to a work-support mounted at the upper end of said carriage, a work-feeding device mounted on said carriage, and means to actuate said feeding device that the feed-dogs at the upper en thereof may engage the under side of the material and move the u er side thereof over the under side of said hlbck.

31. In a machine of the class described, a spring-sustained slotted work-support to sustain the material to be stitched, a block located above saidwork-support and bearing at its under side on the material, a loop-taker sustained in said block; means to actuate said loop-taker, an eye-pointed thread-carry-, ing needle, means to move the same to resent a loop for the entrance of the loo ta er, a presser-foot located in front of said lock, a feeding device located below said work p? port, and means to actuate the feeding device to engage the material and move. the

'same over the under side of said presser-foot and block.

32. 'In a machine. of the class described, stitch-forming mechanism comprisi a needle and rotatable loopthread-carrying taker carrying a second thread, a work-support having a bender-passage, a bender lo-* cated below said work-support, means to move said bender up through said benderpassage, a resser-foot having a space above the bender-passage in said work-support and having a guiding edge to guide the edge of the material being blindstitched onto the material underlying the same and sustained on the work-support, said guiding edge occupying a position which, if prolonged, would cross the upper edge of the bender between its ends.

33. In a machine of the class described, stitch-forming means located above the material and comprising a needle and complemental loop-taker carrying a second thread and adapted to make a series of blindstitches, a work-support presenting a flat surface at right angles tothe direction in which the work is' ed overthe work-support to thus sustain the work at both sides of the line of stitching, said work-support having in its flat surface slots for the passage of a feeding device, and having a bender-passage between said slots, combined with a resser-foot having an opening in line with the bender-passage in the work-support, a feeding device and means to actuate the same to e age the material intermittingly and move t e same 'over the work-support, and a bender, and

means to move the same from a position below the work-support up through said worksupport, bending the work upwardly into the space of the presser-foot to be entered by the needle in making a blindstitch therein.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WOLF ARBETTER.

Witnesses Geo. W. GREGORY, MARGARET 'A..D1 mN.

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