US1035939A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Description

W; 'AR'BETTER. SEWING MACHINE.

APYLIOATIORIILED MAY 2''], 1907.

Patented Aug." 20,1912.

4 SHEET SS HEET 2.

W. ARBETTER.

' SEWING MACHINE? APPLICATION FILED MAY 27, 1907.

Patented Aug. 20', 1912.

' 4 SHEETS-SHEBTB.

. h 6 Z m i Ll v a Fig.3.

Zw cesses: 4

y w W WW1 W. ARBETTER;

SEWING MACHINE, PPLIQATION FILED MAY 27, 1907.

Patented Aug. 20, 1912.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

WOLF ARBETTER, OF CHELSEA, MASSACHUSETTS ASSIGNOR TO ARBETTER FELLING Y MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

nosaasa.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, WOLF Annn'r'rnn, a citizen-of the United States, residing in Chelsea, couxgty of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification,

like letters on the drawing representing like parts.

stitches do not show in the body material of the garment.

My invention also includes mechanism whereby the stitch-forming mechanism in making the blind. stitches maybe so adjusted as to cause the needle to make'either of its movements in a straight line parallel to the line of feed, or all its movements diagonal to the line of feed and at any desired degree of angularity, or its movements alternately straight parallel to the line of feed and diagonal to the line of feed at. any desired degree of angularit-y.

My invention also involves a mechanism for replacing the fabric after it has been pushed upwardly by what-is known as the bender to present the fabric'in the path of the needle.

said patent in connection with otherparts added thereto to enable a sleeve or sleeve lining to be plaited or gathered into a garment, the plaiting or gathering being 'at-'in-' tervals in order that the end of a sleeve may be properly attached to an armrscye of the garment. I I

This invention relating to sewing machines I for blind stitching has for one of its '0breplacer.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Aug 26, 1912. Application filed May 27, 1907. Serial No. 375,847. I

- Figure 1 is a front end View; Fig. l 'is a detail of the roller carrier and eccentric;

Fig. 2 is a rear or side view of the parts shown in Fig. 1; Fig.3'is a detail showing part of'the plaiting means and replaeer; Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail showing theapparatus employed for plaiting'or gathering one part or portion of a fabric, as a sleeve,

on to another portion of a fabric constitl'iting part of a arment; Fig. 5 is a like view showing the p aiting or gathering means in-- operative; Fig. 6-is a top or plan'view of F ig. 4; Fig. 7 is a top or plan View of Fig. 5; Fig. 8 is a side view of Fig. 6 looking from the right; Fig. 9 shows part-of the work tobe done on the machine to. beherein described; Fig. IQ is a detail showingthe The sewing machine bed A, the overhanging arm A, the head casing'A A the main shaft A the connection B, the needle-carrying rock-shaft E the needlecarrying arm 6 the needle cf, the take-up D, the shaft A for driving the loop-takera, I

the needle bearing carrier or shaft B having at its lower end an enlargement 18 with which is connected by a screw 10 a bearing to sustain the needle-rock-shaft, the

.arm 0 connected with said shaft. B 9 and provided with an adjusting device 0, the

stop 0 the spring 0? surrounding shaft B, the rodul having attached to its lowerend d by a screw 10 the shank d of the presser-foot 03" having a rearward extension.

d said presser-foot having a space 48, the space closer'd f, the spring-sustained throat-\ plate E,'the feeding device E the shaft D having a cam D for moving the feed ing device, the fulcrum -E for the lower end of the feed device, the-bendenG are and maybe all substantiallyas'shown'in said patent with but slight alterations, to be hereinafter described.

The arm 0 connected with the shaftjB sition. substantially at right angles to the line in which the work is moved by the feeding device E to'make what is called its straight thrust; that is, thethrust which is substantially parallel with the direction of the length of the seam and with the infolded end of said bolt, see Fig. 1, entering the edge, and to facilitate this adjustment the arm 0 is provided with an adjusting device 0 so as to insure just the proper pos1- tion for the needle in its thrust into the body material f restingon the work-support. Theupperend of the shaft B? has connected therewith by a bolt 8 a'link or arm 7 having at its outer bnd an car 70, said ear haying a stud 63sec Fig. 1, that receives over it a hole 5, see Fig. 1, of .a roller-carry ing arm 4 provided at its upper 'end with a stud 3 on which is mounted a roller 2. The

arm 4 has an elongated slot 12 that receives an eccentric 13 forming part'of'a roller-adjusting device 15. 1 The'adjusting device and eccentric have a 'hole" that receives the threaded shank of a bolt 18, the. threaded screw-threaded hole in the lug referred to.

The edge of the adjustingdevice has a series of numbers, andthe lug of the arm 7 i has a pointer 17 coacting with said numbers.

The main shaft has upon it 'nea-rits outer end a gear C that engages a'larger gear 0 both common to said patent, the gear 0 being rotated once to two rotations of the gear G. The gear C has a face cam C" and the roller 2 referred to may be acted upon by the face of said cam, the latter when operat- 30 ing on the roller 2 turning said rock-shaft in one direction preparatory to making one stitch, the spring-C turning said shaft in the opposite direction preparatory to making the next or succeeding stitch. By turning theeccentric 13 referredto, the position of the roller on' the arm 7 may be 'so changed as to cause the cam acting at each rotation on said roller, to turn the shaft 1 B?" and needle shaft bearing B more or less, to thus provide for different positions of the needle when making its angular thrust, or its thrust at an angle 'to the direction of the length of the seam, as when entering the superimposed material f at an angle to its edge. When the roller '2 isso positioned on the arm .7

that the cam exerts its fullthrow on the roller, the greater the angularity of the thrust of the needle, and when the roller 2 is so adjusted on the arm 7 that the cam in its rotation will not strike said roller, then the rocking or swinging movement of the rock-shaft B may be entirely suspended and each thrust of the needle will 'be a straight thrust, so it will be understood that by turning the adjusting device, the rocking movement of the shaft B may be entirely suspended, in which case each ,thrust of the needle will be what iscalled a straight thrust; and so also it vwill be understood that if each thrust of the needle is to be a diagonal thrust, then the adjusting device a will be so turned with relation to the arm 0 that said adjusting device in contact with the stop 0' will hold the rock-shaft in any desired position, so that the thrust of the needle will bea diagonal thrust and just alike for each thrust, and at this time the roller-carrying arm and roller will be so adthat 'I have chosen to designate as a re placer, it comprising a rod h having a 'por- I tion k connected-to its lower end adjustably bya screw h? in a slot la, .so that the lower portion or acting extremity of the replacer may be adjusted vertically on or with relation to the rod h, said extremity being usually so adjusted that when thereplacer completes its workin strike it will occupy a position substantia ly 1n the plane of the bottom of the presser-foot in the space 48.,

The upper end of the replacer has a collar h suitably pinned thereto, and between said collar-and the vpart A of the head-casing is interposed a spring ii that acts normally to retain the upper end of the replacer always in contact with the cam h. The replacer is guided in'its vertical movements by a tubular bearing 71f held in the part A, the spring h surrounding said bearing, the

latter having a notch 22, see Fig. 2, that a is entered by a. in 23-, the slot and pin insuring a straig tline movement for the r'eplacer. The bender G is the same as in mysaid patent, and it is actuated in like manner to bend the material preferably at .each alternate thrust, the bender being essential'in bending the material when the needle enters the body material orwhenithe needle is making its so-called straight thrust. It will be urfderstood that the bender as it rises meets the under side of the body'material f; resting on the throat-plate and bends the material upwardly into the space 48 of the resser-foot, and after a sti ch is made and thebender is retracted or lowered, the usual feeding. device rises through the slots in the usual throat-plate 24 of the work-support, engages the under side of the material I and feeds the same for a stitch.

"I have found in practice, with some material and es ecially with material of more than one thlckness, that the bender jams or crowds the material into the space 48 of the presser-foot, and when the machine is being run at high speed, the bent material in said space interferes with the movement of the fabric by the feed, as if the movement of the fabric is held back due to the upwardly bent material yet in the resser-foot, of course there must be a variation in the feed stroke,

which is detrimental to good work. Consequently have devised the replacer before referred to, and I haveso timed its 7 movements that it occupies its elevated po- Bil aoaasee when its end arrives substantially in the plane of the under side of the resser-foot, said replacer thus partially filling-the space in the presser-foot""during the time that the feed, engaging the under side of the material, is moving the material over the under side of the presser-foot, the work-support at such time being slightly relieved from its pressure, as provided for in said patent,'in

order not to interfere with or clamp the work during the feeding operation.

The cam C has an annular groove 24 so cut into a part of its periphery as to leave a cam shaped as shown by'dotted lines, Fig. 1, that contacts with one edge of an actuator 31 comprising essentially a bent arm shown detached in Fig. 3, said arm' being pivoted at 32. A spring 33 connected with a stud34extended from said actuator and connected at its opposite end with a fixed stud 35 keeps the actuator in contact normally with said cam during its rotation. The lower-end of the actuator has a connected extension 86 attached by screws 36*, the extension being carried-forwardly and slotted to embrace a stud 37 rising from a.

blade-carrier 38 mounted loosely upon the rear part a of the presser-foot ([9. The blade-carrier has a diagonal or inclined slot 39 that has Eoacting with itguiding means shown as two screws 40 located in said slot. The forWa-rd'end of the blade-carrier 38 is shown as bent upwardly as at 41 to occupy an angular position, and has connected with it near its free end by suitable studs 42 a spring blade 43, said portion41being slotted as at 44, see Figs. 6 and 7, to receive a bladecontroller 45 shown as a lever having an eccentric end and mounted on a pivot 46 thrust through the extension 41. When the controller 45 occupies the position Fig. 4, the spring blade occupies its operative position,

but when turned backwardly into the dotted line position Fig. 5, the free end of the blade, due to its being made of spring metal,

rises and occupies its inoperative position.

When the controller is in the position full lines Fig. 4, the blade maybe made to pucker or gather the fabric 1 which is folded on itself, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, said material being, the upper end of a sleeve lining, of silk or other usual lining fabric, the same being laid on the lining support or shelf '50 herein represented as forming part of the presser-foot all", said shelf as constructed having an edge guide 52 and being slotted,

' carried by the main shaft.

t l" en:

see Figs. 6 and 7, for the reception of screws 53. When the blade 43 occupies the 'posi- 'tion shown by dotted lines, Fig. 5, the controller also-occupying its dotted line position, then the blade, in its forward move ment, due to moving the carriage 38 in the direction of the arrow Fig. 4 by the actuator 31, will not strike the material .f and consequently will not plait or gather the same. i

In the drawing f is supposed to represent a portion of a garment to which the inturned end of a sleeve lining f is to be stitched about the usual arm-scye, or part of the body 'part of a coat or garment. In fact, the sleeve lining, when stitched into the coat may be stitched not only to the coat lining, but also to the inturned upper end of the sleeve part of the coat or the arm-scye 'of the coat at the portion thereofappearing in the back of the coat, or may be stitched only to the coat lining around the top of the shoulder from the shoulder-seam down to the under side of the arin-scye, where again the upper end of the sleeve lining may.

be attached not only to the lining of the coat, but also to the body material of the coat. The folded edge of. the sleeve lining 1 may be made to abut the gage 52 sustained by the presser-foot. The extent of movement of the actuator and blade is controlled by a regulator 54 shown as a threaded screw having a long head notched as at 55 to be engaged by a locking device 56, the screw being projected more or less through a'lug 57 carriedby the actuator-{to meet sooner or later the portion A of the head casing I material passing over the top said patent, in that the rock-shaftherein has V at its outer end a rigidly connected arm a provided with a ball-shaped ring a? fitted overa stud a carried by said arm, said ball-shaped roller being embraced by a bushv ing a tconcaved internally to fit the roller a and convexed externally to fit a concaved "eye at the lower end of the connecting rod 13*. The'upper end oft-he connecting rod B has a like bushing that embraces a like ball-like ring fitted over a stud (L15 held in a stand a connected with the disk B common disk being to said patent, by screws a", said Prior to my invention devices for-plait-ing moved in lines parallel to the. direct-ion in which thematerial is fed .over the work support, and these bladesghave plaited mate rial that a straight needle might meet the upper side of the material, pass straightthrough the same, and.st-it ch the plaited material to another fabric, the path of moveof the material f being plaited, in a straighter ment of the needle being at right angles to the work-support, and in this class of machinery the plaiting has been done pre paratory to the formation of each stitch, or

a plait has been formed for each thrust of the needle.

I believe that I am the first to combin with blind-stitch-forming mechanism, anymeans' whatever forplaiting'a fabric; and also the first to combine with blind stitchforming mechanism plaiting means wherein the operator may, at will, suspend the plaiting of one fabric being stitched to another fabric, this latter combination making it possible without stopping thestitch-forming mechanism to do work on a machine that has always heretofore been done by hand, such for instance as sewing a sleeve lining into a coat at the arm-scye.

' Inqplaiting devices heretofore used, the blade or device acting on the material to plait the same has been movedduring the plaiting operation only in thedireotion of the length of the seam. Hereinthe fabric to be plaited is acted upon by the plaiting device prior to the" diagonal thrust of the needle, and I have so constructed the plating means, as represented by the slots 39' and screws 40 that in addition to its longitudinal movement s'aid plaiting means has imparted to it a slight transverse movement at an angle to the length of the seam and the direction of feed, such. movement of the plaiting means maintaining the folded edge line than is possible if the plating means had only a straightforward thrust. So while'I have illustrated my improvements as capable of being carried out by means herein represented and described, I desire to state-that my invention is not limited to 4 the particular shape shown for the plaiting device or its actuating means, as I mayemploy any other usual or suitable means of the same or like nature.

I have herein shown means for rendering the blade of the plaiting device inoperative by enabling the free end of the blade to rise so as not to contact with the material, and at the same time the device carrying the blade is moved continuously while the stitching is going on, but my' invention would not be'departed from if the carrier for the blade should temporarily be thrown out of operationmanuall during the stitching operation, the bla e at'such time being inoperative to plait the fabric.

In my prior Patent No. 969,740, granted September 6,1910, I have described and claimed broadly means for maintaining the needle above the work-support in a plane diagonal to the line of feed, whereby only diagonal stitches may be formed at any desired angle, and in the machine of the said application and in my prior machines I have alsoprovided for the operation of theneedle in alternate planes first in the direction of the path of feed and then diagonal thereto with an adjustment to provide for any desired degree of angularity inthe alternate thrust. The present invention involves as one feature means whereby-the needle may be operated either (1) in a plane parallel to the direction of feed, or (2) in a plane of any desired degree of angularity so that all the stitches may be. made diagonal to the line of feed at any desired angle, or (3) in planes alternately parallel to the lineof feed and at any desired angle relative thereto so that the stitches may be made alternately, first, parallel to the lineof feed and, secthereto. r

Having described my invention, what I Patent is 1. In a sewing machine, a work-support, a needle and complementalstitch-forming mechanism located and operating above the work-support, means to actuate said needle and complemental stitch-forming ID80117- anism to make a series of blind stitches, a plaiting device comprising a carrier and a blade, and manually controlledfmeans for suspending the plaiting operation of the blade at Will while the stitch-forming mechanism continues to operate.

2. In a sewing machine, work-supporting ing blind stitches, plaitin means, and means to move the same both forwardly and laterally. with relation to. the length of the seam.

3. In a sewing machine, a work-support, a presser-foot, stitch-forming mechanism comprising aneedle and looper located and operating above the resser-foot, means for actuating said needle to enter a folded edge of'a layer of superimposed material to be stitched to material under the Presser-foot,

means for guiding the edge of the folded material, plaiting means to engage the material to be plaited, and means to move the plaiting means in the direction of movement of thematerial and diagonallywith relation thereto prior to each thrust of the needle into the edge of said material.

4. In a sewing machine, a work-support,

end, at any desired .angle with relation. r

claim as new and desire to secure by Letters a Presser-foot provided with an opening,

means for projecting the material into said opening, stitch-forming mechanism located above the Work-support, and means for operating it to cause the needle to pass over the 5. In a sewing machine, a work-support,

a presser-foot provided with an opening, means for projecting the material into said opening, stitch-forming mechanism located above the work-support, and'means for operating it to cause the needle to pass over the upper surface of the presser-foot and form blind stitches inthe fabric projected therethrough, a guide to direct the edge of an upper layer of fabric adjacent said opening, a plaiting device mounted on said presserfoot to slide back and forth thereon and di agonally with relation to the movement of the fabric, means for operating said pla-iting device whereby the upper layer of fabric while being plaited is held up against the said guide.

6. In a sewing machine, a worksupport,

a Presser-foothaving a bender space, means to change the size of said space, a bender to press the material upwardly into the space of the presser-foot, and a replacer to act on the material pressed into said space by the bender to remove the same from said space.

7. In a sewing machine, a work-support, a bar having at its upper end an arm and at its lower end a bearing, a needle-carrier sustained in said bearing, a needle mounted in said needle-carrier, complemental stitchforming mechanism, a cam and means for operating the same, a link mounted on said arm and having a roller coiiperating with said cam, and an eccentric to adjust said link and consequently the extent of rocking movement imparted to said bar from said cam.

8. In a sewing machine, a; work-support, a bar having a hearing at its lower end, a needle-carrier sustained in said bearing, a needle mounted in said needle-carrier, complemental stitch-forming mechanism mounted and operative above the "work-support, means for rocking said bar' to cause the needle to move in aplane in the direction of feed and then in a.plane diagonal thereto, means for adjusting the'operation of said rocking means to cause the bar either to remain stationary at any point of its range of oscillation or to oscillate through any desired angle in its range, whereby the stitches may be made all parallel, all inclined at any desired angle, or all alternately parallel and inclined at any desired angle to the direction of feed.

9. In a sewing machine, a Work-support, stitch-forming mechanism mounted and operative above said work-support and comprising a needle entering and emerging on the same side of the fabric, whereby blind stitches are formed thereby, means for bodily oscillating the said needle to cause it to move on a plane in the direction of feed, and then in a plane diagonal thereto, means for adjusting the position and range of oscillation of said needle to cause its path of oscillationwhereby the stitches may be made all parallel, all inclined at any desired angle, or all alternately parallel and inclined at any desired angle to the direction of feed.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of Y two sub'scribing witnesses.

WOLF

ARBETTER.

Witnesses:

GEO. W. Gxnoonr, EVANGELINE C.- BROWN.

Images