US821935A - Shoe. - Google Patents

Description

No. 821,935. PATENTED MAY 29, 1906.

A. J. GABRIELIAN.

SHOE.

APPLIOATION FILED JULY 3. 1905.

/iVEDlS d. GABRlELlAN, Ol?

tenth...

Specification of Letters lstent.

Patented Maty 2Q, MMM.

Application tiled July 3, 1905. Serisl No. il035E provenient in Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the eccompsnying drawings, is o speciiicetion, like let ters on the drawings representing like ports.

There ere two Well-recognized types oi shoes, the Welt-shoe and the turnshoe, erich having well-recognized advantages and disadvantages; sind the object of my inven ,tion is to combine in one shoe the salvo tages ol both of these well-known types, while elimineting the disedventsges thereof.

,ll/ly invention provides e. single-sole Weltshoe having the exibility of s turn-shoe,

sind eccordingl hes the strength end wenn inA qualities -o the welt-shoe end the iiexihi ity end comfort ot the turn-shoe.

n-rnsking Weltshoes en inner sole is provided, which is tacked in place on e lest end then the upper is pulled over or lasted and tacked to the inner sole, whereupon the sti tch ing-rib of the inner lsole, edge of the upper, and e, Welt (supplied by the stitching-inechine) ere sewed together', the reW edges of the Welt, upv er, end inner sole are trimmed end beaten own, the center of the inner sole is 'filled or leveled with -filler materiel, end then the soles ore leid on end the Welt and outer sole are stitched together through their edges. This makes the shoe very dure ble, but lacking in flexibility and comfort.'

0n the other hand, the turn-shoe has the ietter features, but is 'lacking in the former, as e heavy sole cannot be used in its manufacture, because of the turning process. ln 'making e turn-shoe there is no inner sole; but the outer sole is channeled in a similar manner and then tacked on the bottom of the lest, and after thc'upper has been pulled over thelast with its inside out and tacked to the sole they are sewed together, the tacks are ulled, the raw edge of the upper is trimmed, t. e lest is pulled out, and then the shoe is turned inside out, relasted, and beaten down. This turnin r ci the shoe not only requires o, light and so `t outer sole, but it brings e strani on the stitches :md the inside channel openings of the sole, injures its Wearing quality, and also es the edge ol' the outer sole is thin end close to the upper the latter has no proper support to keep it from the ground.

ln making rny present' shoe I first ineke :i

special icriphern-l groove or channel in the outer so e, so :is to provide en overhei'i ing retaining ledge or lip, sind then l sew ii- We t to the rlower edge of the upper and insert the sewed seem in seid periphersi channel be nenti seid overhsnging li and then stitch the outer edge of the We t directly to they outer sole. This construction permits .e heevy outer sole to be used, eliminetes the inner sole end ordinary welt construction, end provides s positivo support for the sev/*ed edge or' the upper, thereby relieving the stitches of rnost of the pulling strain, (es distinguished 'from the turn-shoe construction, where the stitches :ire unprotected, and there fore endure :ill the pulling strain) und the resulting shoe hes ill the appearance ein. usuel Welt-shoe, with the flexibility sind eoniiort oi the turn-shoe,

Further deteiis of construction end 'method of manufacture-Will set forth inthe iolowing description, reference being hed to the accompanying drawings, inwhich l lieve illustrated niy invention. n

ln the drawings, `Figure l shows e. shoe-upper provided with e welt. Fig. is e, crossA sectional view thereof.v -E ig. y3 is e top pien View of the sole. Fig. 4 is e cross-sectional View showin the sole end upper partly united, and higs. 5 sind 6 e' e respectively e' cross-sectional View and o broken perspective Aview of e 'finished shoe.

In meklng iny boot or shoe i first cut the upper accurately to the pattern and then put Q the u per ay together in the usuel xnenner, Aso that it eppeurs es shown in lFig. l. To the bottom edged of this upper l sew e. Welt b by e row of stitches b', pessing throughthe inner' edge of the Welt and the bottoni edge off' the u per. Next I provide in thc iiiesh side oi" t e desired heavy outer sole c a, fieripherel channel c', so es to form an outwerdlyfoven hanging ledge or lip for retaining the upper. The inner end or groove c3 of the chenn i c is rounded in cross-section or comparatively Wide, so es to permit the two thic nesses of the upper sind welt to be seated firmly .end compoctly against the extreme inner end'o seid channel.

llsvlng formed the channel in the outer sole, the channel c and the bottom side b2 of the welt are cemented, end when dry (which is necessary if rubber-cernent is used) the seemed edge oi' the Welt Z) sind of the upper o ere pushed inw ordly under the lip and seated irnily in the closed end c3 of the channel* They are then pressed down tightly by hand erhyinachine into the channel and around the outer sole. After this operation the welt outer sole are stitched together, as indig'oated at c".

It will thus be seen that a firm strong contdgrnctionis provided having the wearing duelities of a welt-shoe, and yet all the stiflness and discomfort of the latter' are elimii hated, and, the ilexibility and )comfort of a single-sole shoe-Ji. e., no inner-'sole layer or` filler, ite-are secured. The stili' `welt holds y the upper rmly pressed in `beneath the lip, so that the latter tales'most of the pulling vi5V strain, which would otherwise be brought by the upper u on the stitches b', V(and when cement 1s us the latter also aids, of course.)

` Also the channel holds the seam', so that there is no .possible roughness; but the main feazo tureo this part of my invention resides in the outersole itself` provided-with an everlipngingreteiningsliplcombinprd with tlil eving eir sea :35 makes iis-very tightfshoe and gives the solid substantialheavy appearance of .a welt-shoel Without the stillness of the latter. By my methodlzmake a welt-shoe Without an .inner j Sole Iand Without the lasting process.

After the welt and outer sole are stitched y together' the last is'put in the shoe 'for finishing andis lasted over, the counter on the heelseat to a proper litt and shank-piece the same senses,

vas used in a turn-shoe, and the sole is then leveled vandinished in the usual manner. c

I prefer to form the retaining-lip as an integral-part of the outer sole; but it will be understood that I am not restricted thereto in all ceses provided the seamed edge of the welt and upper is left free and simply retained by an overhanging engaging means, which extends from 'and is secured to the outer sole, my. construction re airing that the' upper and welt shall be served together at' their lnner edges, which are held down by the overhangin lip, but not stitched thereto, the stitching lta in place solely at the outer ed e of the welt, w ere the latter is stitched .irectly to the outer edge of the outer sole. Also it will be understood that I may employ the usual sock-linin and. other parts requisite for acomplete s oe. Y

Having described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1h shoe having its outer sole provided with e horizontal'peripheral. channel forming an integral thick and rigidoverhanging led e, an upper Aand welt, the bottom edge of t e upper and the inner ed eof the welt being stitched fiat against eac other, and pressed firmly into the bottom of said channel and beneath said ri id ledge whereby theupper is retainedA by i s engagement with the sole, said Welt resting flat upon the lower side of 75 said horizontal channel and having its outer edlge sewed directly to the outer edge of said so e.

lIn testirntmyA whereof l have signed my name to this specification in the presence of 8o two subscribing witnesses. 4

' A .vEDis J. GABRIELMN.

Witnesses:

EVV. GABRIELIAN, Gno. H. MAXWELL.

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