US819593A - Collar. - Google Patents

Description

No. 819,593. PATENTED MAY 1, 1906.

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No. 819,593. PATENTED MAY 1, 1906- J. K. P. PINE.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED 116.23, 1905.

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UNITE sra rns PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES K. P. PINE, OF TROY, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNITFD SHIRT AND COLLAR COMPANY, OF TROY, NEIV YORK, A CORPORATION OF NEIV YORK.

COLLAR.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 1, 1906.

Application filed August 23, 1905. Serial No. 275,337.

To all whmn it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JAMES K. P. PINE, a citizen of the United States of America, and a resident of Troy, in'the county of Rensselaer and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in a Collar, of which the following is a specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part thereof.

My invention relates to collars employed as articles of apparel, and particularly to stand-up collars having turn-down corners or wings; and my invention consists in arranging the fabric comprising the outer facings of the wing portions of the collar with the warpthreads thereof in directions at substantially right angles to the lines upon which the said wing portions are bent or folded over.

The main object of my invention is to strengthen collars of this description at the lines of fold of the wing portions.

As these collars are now made the lines upon which the wing portions are bent or folded over run diagonally to the warpthreads of the fabric comprising the outer facings thereof, thereby causing a much greater strain at these points than in a collar constructed in accordance with my inven tion. The direction of the warp-threads, is in fact, usually forty-five degrees or less to the line of fold, so that a large proportion of the strain comes upon the weft-threads, and as the weft-threads of all linen and cotton fabrics are lighter than the warp-threads the collar readily cracks or breaks at this point.

In arranging the fabric constituting the outer facing of the wing portions at right angles to the lines of fold I obtain the maximum strength possible and considerably lengthen the life of a collar of this description.

In order that my invention may be fully understood, I will now describe a collar embodying my invention and will then point out the novel features in claims.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a view of a wing-collar shaped in condition to be worn. Fig. 2 is a face view of one end of the collar with the wing portion straightened out, the view taken looking at the inside of the collar. Fig. 3 is a similar view with succeeding layers of the fabric turned back in order to show the construction of the collar. Fig. 4 is a face view of one end of a blank suitable for use as a front facing. Figs. 5 and 6 are similar views of blanks suitable for interlinings. Fig. 7 is a similar view of a blank suitable for the back facing. Fig. 8 is a face view of a blank suitable for a wing-portion facing.

The collar may be composed of any suitable number of plies of fabric desired, the usual number being four. The collar herein illustrated is composed of four" pliesto wit, a front facing a, interlinings I) and c, and a back facing (Z. The front facing a is of a size and shape to include the body and wing portions, the blank thereof being slightly larger than the finished collar to allow for the turnings for the seams. The interlining-piece b is preferably cut away at the parts corresponding to the wing and tab portions of the collar, so that these parts may be of three instead of four plies in thickness. The interlining-piece c is preferably the full size of the collar including the Wing portions, except that parts are cut away to compensate for seams, &c. The back facing d is of a size to cover the body portion only of the collar, the ends thereof being cut away, as at e, on lines close to the bend of the wings of the collar and substantially parallel with the lines of such bends. The direction of the warpthreads of this back facing may conveniently be longitudinal thereof, as is usual with this style of collar. One of the back facingpieces for the wings is shown in detail in Fig. 8, being designated by the reference character One edge of this piece of fabric is cut away upon a line 9, corresponding to the line 6 of the back facing d and is arranged to be at about right angles to the direction of the warp-threads of the fabric, the surface-lines in Figs. 2, 3, and 8 representing the direction in the drawings of the warp-threads.

The parts (Z and f will be united along the lines 6 and g, (allowing of course for the turnings necessary for a seam,) and preferably these parts will be at the same time united to the interliningpiece c. The parts a and b may then be united and all the members assembled and stitched together in the usual way.

The wing portions now upon being bent over will be so bent upon lines substantially at right angles to the direction of the warpthreads, whereby said warp-threads will bear the major portion of the strain, and the collar portions, the facings of said body and Wing thereby much strengthened.

portions comprising separate pieces of fabric Whatlclaim is secured together, the facing-pieces of the 1.5 1. A Wing-collar comprising a body and Wing portions arranged With their Warp- 5 folded-over corner Wing portions, the said threads at substantially right angles to the corner Wing portions composed of several lines upon which they are bent or folded layers of fabric the outer layers of Which are over. arranged With their warp-threads at substantially right angles to the lines upon which 10 they are bent or folded. Witnesses:

2. The combination in a wing-collar, of a; W. A. OWENS, body portion and folded-over corner Wing HARRY T. HUGHES.

JAMES K. P. PINE.

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