US790333A - Tailor's chart. - Google Patents

Description

` PATENTED MAY 23A, 1905.

J., R. VANDAME. TAILORS CHART.

APPLICATION FILED PEB, 25.1904.

z SHEETS-SHEET 1,

Jahn Van ame 3515" y; y i @Haine/1v No. 790,333.' PATENTBDMAY 23,1905.

` J. R. VAN DAME'. TAILORS CHART;

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 25.1904.r v 2 xmms-SHEET 2.

f Q/vihwonrs- I UNITED STATES Patented May as, 1905.

PATENT OFFICE.

TAILORS. CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No, 790,333, elated May 23, 1905,

Application iled February 25, 1904. Serial No. 195,302.

'y To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Jol-IN R. VAN DAME, a

citizen of the United States, residing at Grand lRapids', in the county of Kent and State of Michigan, have invented certain new and useject is to provide a chart with which the several f points of measuring and positions of lines may be readily established for the. use of the tailor-square. I attain this object by the construction and delineation 'shown in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a plan ofthe back portion ofthe chart. Fig. 2 is a plan of the front portion ot' the chart. Figs. 3 and 4 are plans-oi` the reverse sides of the square used with this chart, patented to me October 25, 1898, and not subject of invention in thisA application; and Fig. 5 is an outline oi a bust, showing the two bust-measurers.

Similar letters and numerals of reference represent similar parts throughout the several views, it being distinctly understood that the fixed numerals and characters are not to be applied' as references except where here-' inafter distinctly mentioned for reference.

The borderV spaces and numerals upon the chart correspond with similar spaces and numerals upon the square and are designed wholly to express measurements, &c., and as the description of one measurement will illustrate all I will confine myself to a single description upon each portion of the chart. As Fig. 1 illustrates the back portion of the chart, I will first complete the description of this section of the chart. Place the chart Fig. 1 uponthe fabric to be cut, lirst having taken the proper and necessary measurements of the person to be fitted, and draw line 11' across the top of the chart. Then make a V at 12 for width of back-measure, and at 13 for neck-measure. Draw line 2 downl the full length of the chart and make V at 15 for length of back-measure, also at N for neck-measure, and at A on line 1l for length of arms-eye. Make a V at 36 for bust-measure and draw line 3 to linger-point upon N, Fig. 1, and draw the neck-line N 13.4

Now place I, Fig. 4, at J, Fig. 1, and draw the curved line 8 from J to the slot at 32. To draw the waist-line 9, place point A of the square at D and draw line 9. VPlace the point 24 on the -square at C on the chart and make a V. Slide the square to the right until AA rests at O' and mark at F one inch to the right of C', and from 24 on the square mark H. Now mark N one inch to the left of 15, and B two inches to the left of 15. Draw line 10 from N to N for sewing-line, and then mark line 11 from A to 24', where it joins line 3. Now place the point B on the square at B, Fig. 1, and draw the line 13 from B to B. Place point C of the square at C, Fig. 1,and draw line 12 fromO to C. Place the point H of the square at H on Fig. 1 and draw line 14 to H. For line 15 place E of the square at F on line 8 and draw the line to F on line 9. For line 16 place the point D on the square at D and draw the line to D. The lines below the waist-line (line 9) are drawn substantially as shown in Fig. 1. f

Coming now to the front section of the chart Fig. 2, place the chart upon the article to be cut, irst havingy taken the necessary measurements of the person being fitted, and

check ofi' the dimensions', as indicated at the several V marks. Draw line 1 the full length of the chart and make a V at 15, at A, at 13, and at N on this line. lDraw line 2 across the top of the chart and make a V at D, at W, at R, and at T and mark through perforations at O P for top darts. Now using the perforation 28 on line 3 as a pivot, swing the chart to the position of the dotted lines 17 X and mark a V at 36, slide the chart tothe left until the corner 46 rests at 36, and draw the line 4 from 36 to 8, practically at right angles with the dotted outlines of line 3. Now swing the chart to its normal position and slide it to the left until the point T stands at R and IOO draw the chest-line I and mark a V at S. Raise the chart until the lower left-hand corner rests at 15, and draw the Waist-line 15 15, marking for dart-lines at O, P, Q, and Q. Now place the point 24 on line 6 at Q to locate the points of line 8 Q. Lay the chart aside and with a tape-measure pivoted at N describe the neckline W 13 from D, describe the top of dartlines 36 and 39,and from W the waist-lines, line 6 and line 15 15", may, if desired, be described. With the square place the point H at O' with the curve to the left and make the line O O. With H at P make the line P' Q' for the left sides ot' dart-openings. Reverse the square and place the point I at O to form the line O P and at P to form the line P' Q for the righthand side of the dart-openings. Place point C of the square at 13""a'nd point H of square upon the front line and draw the front line 13" of the garment for the sewing-line. Place the point J of the square upon W and draw the line W S, reverse the square, with point K at S one-halt' inch down, and draw a line intersectingr the shoulder-line at the chestline I', as shown. Draw the arms-eye curve with the arms eye-curve J of the square by placing F of the square upon line 3 and L on the square to the chest-line 1'. r1`hen slide the square up one halt inch and complete the curve to S', substantially as indicated in Fig. 2. The important feature with this chart is the means for inding the neck-line W 13 and the back-line 4 not available with any other system. For this purpose we take iirst the long bust-line a b, Fig. 5, and then the short bustline c c, and a direct line through b and c will give the exact point for neck-line at W, Fig. 2, and by carrying the lower end of the chart back the exact distance ot' the difference between these measurements, pivotingat 28, say, 40

to 17, will throw line 3 to the exact position to locate line 4, which, as hereinbeiore stated, is practically at right angles with the changed position of line 3 (indicated by the dotted lines) and is said to balance with the pointlV.

The hereinbefore-described method of linding the proper points and lines in patterncutting may be applied to any combination of measurements indicated by the several scales upon the chart.

The lines below the waist-lines are carried down by use of the square, substantially as shown upon the chart.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is

In a tailors chart, a waist and a bust portion the back of the waist portion extending beyond the back of the bust portion and separated for a distance from the bust portion by a slot between the two, graduated scales upon the front, upon a portion ol the back, upon the waist-line and upon the top of the waist, lixed points from which to strike the dartlnes, vertical lines upon the bust portion for establishing the chest-line and arms-eye curve, iixed point upon the waist portion for striking the neck-line, the top ol dart-line and the waist-line, and a lixed pivot-point from which the back of neck-line and the back ol waist-line are established, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

Signed at Grand Rapids, Michigan, February 20, 1904.

JOHN R. VAN DAME.

In presence of C. V. CILLEY, 'rHIEL J. CILLEY.

Images