US67414A - cheevbe - Google Patents

Description

@with tatrs glatter @fitta AARN lV. CHEEVER, 0F LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS. Letters Pete-ottNo. 67,414, dated August 6, 1867.

IMPROVEMENT IN LASTS.

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TO ALL WI'IOM I'I MAY CONCERN:

Be it known that I, AARON W. CHEEVEP., of Lynn, in the county of Essex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Lasts, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact descripvtion, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, making part of this specification, in`whch Figure I is a perspective view of one of my improved lasts.

Figure :2 is a longitudinal vertical section through the centre of the same.

Figure 3 is a section taken in the plane of the draught line of the last.

Figure 4 is a transverse vertical section on the line x z of iig. 2.

Figure. 5 is a transverse vertical section on the line y y of fig. 2.

Figure (i is a longitudinal section through one of my improved lasts with an extreme hollow to the shank.

To produce a boot or shoe in which the draught line will be preserved in any of the positions naturally assumed by the wearer, it is necessary to employ a last of the exact form of a perfect foot of the size of `the boot or shoe required; but the experiments heretofore made to arrive at this desired form have only been approximately successful. i

My invention particularly relates to that class of lasts which are made in two pieces, z'. e., the last proper, or lower piece, and the block placed upon it; and my invention consists in so shaping the last and its block that the length of a horizontal line measured across the las't in a plane passing through or a. little below the draught line, at any point forward of the instep, and also at its rear over the shank, will be greater than the corresponding line (thus measured) in lasts -as heretofore made, while the sectional area through the last,at the given point measured, in a plane at right angles to the draught line remains the same, and I obtain the requisite amount of fullness without the wrinkling of the boot or shoe occasioned by the draught line being thrown out of place in walking incident to lasts of the ordinary construction.

My invention also consists in making the draught line straight on the exterior surface of the last from a point near the heel to a point at the ball; and my invention also consists in forming a projection at `the toe end of the block of the last, and also in certain improvements in the construction of the groove in the last proper andin the tongue on the bloclr, vwhich slides therein for a purpose to be explained hereafter; and my invention furthermore consists in increasing the height of the instep without increasing the length of the heel line to produce a hoot or shoe with an extremely hollowing shank.

To enable others skilled in the art to understand and usc my invention, I will proceed to describe the manner in which I have carried it out.

In the said drawings, A is the last proper, provided with a groove, a, in which slides a. dove-tailed strip or tongue piece, b, screwed or otherwise fastened or formed on the under side of the block B. Z Z is the draught line, (seen in red, figs. I, 2, and 6,) the position of which is ordinarily determined by last-makers by drawing a line on the exterior of the last from the highest point in the curve of the heel to the toe. A line passing through these points is the direction assumed by the human foot in its natural positions, whether in motion or at rest, this draught line being the resultant of the directions of the forces exerted by the various muscles and cords. With my improved last the horizontal distance from' any point c on one side of the last to a point, d, on its opposite side, measured on or a little below the plane of the draught line, is greaterv than a .corresponding line in a last of the old construct-ion, While the amount of fullness remains the same in my last as in a common last of the same size, the shape of the last measured transversely across it (as shown in section fig. 4') being the best upon which to crimp or mould the upper to insure it fitting the foot perfectly in this direction. A portion of the draught line, (measured on the exteriorside surface of the last from 'a point, e, near the heel to a point,f, at the ball, is straight, the remaining portion of the draught line between these points and the toe and heel respectively being of a gradual curvature, by which construction, in connection with its transverse sectional area, a last will be produced upon which a boot or shoe may be made that will smoothly and snugly adapt itself to 'the conformation of the foot without playing up and down thereon, and without wrinklng the f upper incident to a boot or shoe made on an old pattern of last. g is a projection formed on the upper side of the toe end of the block B, in order to give more fullness at this point, and thus avoid the toes being pinched or chafed. A similar projection for the same purpose has been formed on 'by its projection g from working in the v 'upper,

the last proper, but when several boots or shoes of different fullness are required; where such lasts are employed, it becomeslnecessary to furnish an entire last for each separate pattern, whereas my improved block last enables me to use the same last proper" for different degrees of fullness, and only necessitates the block being changed, by which means a considerable saving is elfected in the construction of lasts.

In 'the operation of lasting a boot or shoe, or when beating out the bottom,u erre-lasting' upon a last of the old construction, the upper was frequently wrinkled and dainaged'by being pinched between the last proper and its block, which liability does not exist where a block of my improved construction is employed, as the toe is formed thereon, and no joint occurs in which to pinch the upperff and the block being prevented the desired shape and fullness of the boot or shoe is obtained. The width across that portion of a last of the old construction in which the groove is formed for the reception of the dove-tailed portion of the block is'narrow, owing to the peculiar form ofthe last and rapid inclination of the line upon which the block slides, and consequently the amount -of material at thispoint is only suicient to make a narrow groove, but the length of the groove has been increased to retain the block properly upon its last. p

This construction is, however, objectionable, on account of the diiculty of removing the block from the last when they are within the boot or shoe, the upper or instep end ofthe block coming in contact with the leg'of the boot o r shoe, whereby the dove-tailed strip is frequently broken. But with my improvements the surface of the last proper, on which theA block slides, is wider, and a wider groove Acan consequently be formed therein without weakening the former, and thus thelength ofthe groove may be'diminished, by which construction the block can be readily removed from its last without interfering with the leg of the boot orshoe, and the liability of splitting the dove-tailed strip is avoided. t

In iig. 6 is represented one of my improved lasts, in which the height of the instep from 7 to 8 is increased without increasing the length of the heel line from 9 to 10. This result is accomplished by adding to the top orinstep portion of the block what is cut out from the bottom or shank portion of the last, the amount added to the instep being placed entirely forward of and nearly level with the point 9,

The object of this construction is simply to please the fancy of the wearer, and as frequent inquiries are made for a boot or shoethat looks weil on the foot the shank is therefore made extremely hollowing.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters l]?atent, 'is- The block last A B, constructed*substantially as above described and for the purpose set forth.

I also claim making the draught line straight on thevexterior surface of the last from a point near the heel to a point at the ball of the foot, 'substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

I also claim forming a projection, g, on the toe end of the block of the last, substantially as and for the purpose described. Y

I also claim increasing the width and reducing the length of the groove in the last proper, the purpose specified.

as and for AARON W. CHEEVER.

Witnesses:

N. W. STEARNS. L. E. BATcHnLLnR.

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