US660397A - Tailor's drafting implement. - Google Patents

Description

Patented Oct. 23, |900'. A. N. BOSENBLOUM. TAILOR'S DRAFTING IMPLEMENT.y

(Application led Jan. 11l 1900.]

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@Units rames PATENT OFFICE.

ABE N. ROSENBLOOM, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS;

TAILORS DRAFTING |MPLEMENT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 660,397, dated ctober" 2e, i906.

Application iiled January Il, 1900. Serial No. 1,120. (No modela) "0 @El whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, ABE N. ROSENBLOOM, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in thecounty of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvementsiu Tailors Drafting Impleinen ts; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertalns to make and use the same.

My invention relates to tailors drafting devices for use in making and designing patterns for garments; and it consists of a suitable drafting device comprising a body portion, a removable portion, and a hinged eX- tension employing all of the curves and angles necessary for producing such patterns, the said device being also provided with graduated and numbered apertures or pin-holes for receiving impression devices for impressing or marking the material from which the pattern is to be out, all as will be hereinafter described and specifically claimed.

The object of my invention is the production of a tailors drafting device by which a pattern can be speedily and accurately made by inexperienced as well as experienced pattern-makers, and which patterns will be perfect as to shape and fit and which can be produced expeditiously' and at the same time with greater accuracy.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure lis a plan view ofy my improved tailors drafting device, showing the same complete and in an open condition. Fig. 2 is a plan View of the upper or body portion of said drafting device, showing the front face thereof, the lower portion of the device being broken off. Fig. 3 is a similar view to Fig. 2, but showing the rear face of the device. Fig. 4e is a plan view of a slightly-modified form of construction, and Fig. 5 is a plan view of another modified form of construction.

As heretofore stated, my improved tailors drafting device contains all of the curves and angles necessary for the production of patterns for use in making sack, cut-away, or frock coats and overcoats and vests of all sizes and styles for men, boys, children, and ladies.

At various points in my drafting device-I `itself as placed on the market containing all -the sizes necessary in patterns for garments ling device is laid down upon the pattern-sheet at any suitable point, and I will assume that have formed graduated scales, sometimes in the form of marks, along the edges of the de-` vice, as at d, at the edge of the body and as on the edges of the removable portion, and at other times in rows of apertures or small holes, the lines along the sides as, for instance, d and c-or edge o. and the rows of apertu res-as, for instance, a of* a6 F G, dac.- being marked with numbers in series, as 2, 4, 6, 8, dac., to indicate the proper points in marking ont patterns for various sizes, such series of numbers in the article the breast-measure of the customer is thirtysix inches, the waist-measure thirty --three inches, and the armhole seventeen and onehalf inches. In marking out a pattern for a thirty-siX-size coat I use a sharp instrument and apply the same to the pattern-sheet at a point through a pin hole or aperture denoting size thirty-six on one of the straight vertical edges ct of the drafting device. This edge is always kept parallel with the edge ofthe pattern-sheet or with a vertical line drawn on the same and is at right angles to the edge d8. I use this as a starting-point, andI next pass the sharp instrument through an aperture, as at d', said aperture being designated for size thirtysix and beingone of the series of apertures extending inwardly from the upper left-hand corner of.2 of the device, which apertures, as before stated, are graduated and numbered according to the different sizes of garments whichV may be made. `The upper right-hand corner of the device I have designated d3. The line or edge of the device between a2 and d3 is made on a suitable curve to give the shape for the neck-piece of the garment. I next pass the sharp instrument through one of the graduated apertures, as d4, marked for Asize thirty-six in that row of apertures which 'greater than ninety degrees.

extends inwardly from one of the side projections or corners a5. The outline of the device from the corner or projection 0.2 to the projection a5 is made on a slight curve to correspond to the shape to be given to the pattern for cutting out a part of the shoulder for the back of the coat. I next pass the sharp instrument through one of the apertures, as at ai, and designated for size thirtysix in the roW of apertures projecting inwardly from the projection or point a7 on the left-hand side of the device. The side of the device between the point or projection a7 and the point or projection a5 is made on a proper curve to correspond to the shape to be given to the pattern for continuing the cutting out of the back adjacent to the armhole. Having accurately located the points on the pat; tern-sheet by means of the graduated and marked apertures and the sharp instru ment I simply connect said points by bringing the corresponding edges of the device in line with the same and following said edges with a piece of marking chalk or pencil, which when done will give the exact shape of the backof the garment.

The lower part of the drafting device, which I term the part B, is removably` secured to the upper part lettered A in any suitable nianne1-as, forinstance, by a spring snap or clip or by a sliding connection, as at A', Figs. l and 2. The part B lies in a substantially-horizontal line with reference to a vertical limb or extension b', which is hinged or pivoted to said part B at one end, as at B', the edges of the parts B and b abutting, as at B2, to prevent these parts from opening or moving on the pivot B' to an angle much These parts B and b are held in position when their edges abut, as aforesaid, by means of an arm CZ', connected, preferably, by hinging to the body A, which arm is provided with a notch which when the arm is extended [its over the outer ends of the parts B and b. The lines 3' indicate the outer edges of reinforcing-pieces glued or otherwise secured to the parts B and b/ to give strength for the joint between these parts. After the back of the coat has been marked ont, as above described, the part B can be detached from the portion A, and the inner edge b of the vertical limb b' can be -i1sed,tocontinue the upper outline just produced to form the side seam of the coat.. This part B is frequently used in connection with the portion A without being detached, as will be hereinafter set forth.

In cutting out the fore part orfront of the coat the following procedure is usually followed: The drafting device is laid upon the sheet of material, and a line is drawn thereonw along the rear edge biof the part B, which will give the shape of the side seam of the coat, and a point is marked olf on the part B, according to the breast measurement, the said horizontal part being marked and graduated for that purpose. AATo get the pattern for from, and if a thirty-six-size garment is being' marked a point is marked or incision is made through one of the graduated openings indicated for size thirty-six on the said arm, and a mark or incision is made on the patternsheet through one of the series of apertures formed in the device alongside'the curved slot E, and these two points are connected by turning the drafting device to bring the edge E' of the device in line with said points and passing a pencil or marking-chalk along the said edge, which gives the shape for the shoulder of the coat. In forming the pattern for the armhole the drafting device is laid on the paper in the same position as for formingthe shoulder, and a point marked for size thirtysix of a series of apertures opposite the curved slot E is taken asa starting-point, and an incision is made in the pattern-sheet at this point, and another incision is made through a pin hole or aperture marked for size thirtysix in the series of pin-holes F, provided in said drafting device, and another incision is made through one of a series of pin-holes marked G,said particular pin-hole bei ngdesignated for size thirty-six, and then through an aperture designated for size thirty-six in a series'of apertures marked I-I, a portion of which latter apertures is preferably formed on the horizontal limb of the part B. These points are connected by arranging the drafting device so that the curved slot Il' will cover said points and by then passing a pencil or piece of chalk along. said slot. In forming the neck of the garment the drafting device is placed on the pattern-sheet at the proper place and a pencil or chalk drawn along the curved edge i of the opening I.

The slotted portion J and J is used in cntting out the pattern for a cut-away. The curved slot (marked K) is used in marking out the lapel for a double-breasted coat.

In cutting out the top sleeve of agarment, Say, for a thirty-siX-size coat a puncture is made in the pattern-sheet through a pin-hole designated forv size thirty-six of a series of holes marked L, (see Fig. 3, which shows the reverse side of the device,) and then another pu ncture is made in the pattern-sheet through the pin-hole marked for size thirty-six in a series of apertures marked M, and then another mark is made in the pattern-sheet through the aperture marked for size thirty-sixin a series of apertures marked N, and then a terminating-point is made on the pattern-sheet by puncturing the paper at a point marked O, near one edge or corner, which corresponds IIO to d2 on the front side of the drafting device. These points are then connected by bringing the slot E over the same and drawing a pencil or piece of chalk through the same, which will give the pattern for the top sleeve. In forming the pattern for the under sleeve the drafting device is laid on the pattern-sheet in the saine position as for making the Iop sleeve, and the pattern is started by puncturing the sheet through the pin-hole Q in the drafting device aud then puncturing or marking the pattern-sheet through a pin-hole marked 36 of one of a series of apertures designated as R, and The point Q and the point for size thirty-six in the series of apertures R are then connected by laying the drafting device over said points, so that the curved wall or edge t2 of the opening I and lthe slot 3 come in line with said points, and

a pencil or chalk line drawn along the edges of said opening and slot to connect the points, which will give the proper shape to the under sleeve.

In Fig. 4: I have shown a slightly-modified form of my tailors drafting device,which provides only for marking outthe pattern for marking out the front or fore part of the coat and not for the back of the coat. The construction and operation of the same are precisely the same as that heretofore described, except that the construction is more simplified, in that provision does not have to be made for marking out the back of the coat. In this construction S represents an upwardly and inwardly extending curved arm having an upwardly-extending short arm s, the inner edges of which arms give the shape for the armhole. To vary the size of the sleeve, the arm S is provided with, say, three series of laterally-extending pin-holes,which are numbered, say, for sizes thirty, thirty-one, thirtytwo, dac., for different-sized garments and by puncturing the pattern-sheet by an instrument passed through hole for size thirty-two in each one of the series of apertures, and then connecting the marked places by the inner edges of the arms S s the proper shape and size of the armhole are secured. The arm T is secured to the arm S and extends from the same at the proper angle and is provided with graduated and marked pin-openings for different-sized garments, so as to give the proper shoulder-points of the garments. The arm U is for giving the breast-measure and is similar in construction and operation to the horizont-al arm, heretofore described, and for the same purpose. The slot V in the part B is employed to give the proper pattern or outline to the skirt of the garment. The graduated pin-holes o, which are marked to indicate different lengths or sizes, enable the pattern to be made forsecuring the proper length of the waist. An arm Y is secured to extension b below and substantially parallel with part B, the lower edge of said arm Y being curved, as at Y', and with the extension b this arm and its curved lower edge are used to mark out the back curves of cut-away coats. rIhe pin-holes o at the junction of b' and Y are graduated and are used to mark the vertical length of waists of coats, while the pin-holes y in arm Y are to indicate the girth or measure from the tail to the front opening of the coat.

In Fig. 5 I have shown another slightlymodified form of my improved tailors drafting device, by the use of which Iam enabled to cut out the back and front of the coat, but which device differs from the construction shown in Fig. l in that the part Bis dispensed with and in lieu of the part B an arm WV is pivot-ed at W4 to the lower end of the body portion proper of the device. The pivoted arm W is formed with a curved edge w, which gives the outline for the armhole, and patterns for different sizes of armholes can be secured by means of the series of graduated pin-holes w' @U2 w3, provided in the said arm, which pin-holes are properly numbered according to the different sizes, and another' series of pin-holes, as 104, for forming the armhole is also provided in the main body portion of the device. To form the pattern for the armhole, it is simply necessary to connect the incisions made in the pattern-sheet through these apertures byplacing the curved edge w of the arm W in line with said incisions and drawing a line along said curved edge. By the use of the construction now being described the pattern for the back and front parts of the coat will be formed the same as in the construction shown in Fig. 2, it being observed that the main body portion of this device 1s substantially of the same shape in outline as a part A shown in said Fig. 2 and is similarly marked as to pinholes and arrangement thereof.

In the drawings where the numerals` opposite the scale-marks are repeated they, indicate larger or smaller size measurements, according as the scale-marks are nearer to or farther from zero-as, for instance, where 2 appears once it indicates thirty-two and where it. is repeated farther out on the scale it indicates forty-two and where it is repeated further in on the scale it indicates twenty-two.

Having now described my invention, what lelaim as new, and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is-

l. A tailors drafting device for marking out patterns for garments, comprising in its construction a body portion having a suitably-shaped outline to form the pattern for the back and shoulderof the garment and having in it suitably located and arranged series of graduated and numbered apertures or pin-holes, a series of marking-slots having a definite relation to said series of apertures or pin-holes, a lower portion or extension removably secured to the main body, and a vertical limb pivoted to said extension and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the vertical lengths of waists for coats, substantially as described.

lOO

IIO

2. A tailors drafting device for marking out patterns for garments, comprising in its construction a body portion having a suitably-shaped outline to form the pattern for the back and shoulder of the garment and having in it suitably located 'and arranged series of graduated and numbered apertures or pin-holes, a series of marking-slots having a deiniterelation to `said series of apertures or pin-holes, a lower portion or extension removably secured to the main body, a vertical limb pivoted to said extension and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the vertical lengths of waists for coats, and a stop-arm hinged to the main body to prevent the extension and its limb from moving too far on their pivot or hinge, substantially as described.

3. A tailors drafting device for marking out patterns for garments, comprising in its construction a body portion having a suitably-shaped outline to form the pattern for the back and shoulder of the garment and having in it suitably located and arranged series of graduated and numbered apertures or pin-holes, a series of marking-slots having a definite relation to said series of apertures or pin-holes, a lower portion or extension removably secured to the main body, and a vertical limb pivoted to the extension and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the vertical lengths of waists for. coats, the extension lying in a horizontal position and being provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the girth or Waist measures of coats, substantially as described.

4. A tailors drafting device for marking out patterns for garments, comprising in its construction a body portion having a suitably-shaped outline to form the pattern for the back and shoulder of the garment and having uponit/suitablylocated and arranged series of graduated and numbered apertures or pin-holes, a series of markingslots having a definite relation to said series of apertures or pin-holes, a lower portion or extension removably secured to the main body,'a vertical limb pivoted to the extension and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the vertical lengths of waists for coats,

the extension being horizontal and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the girth or waist measures of coats, and a lower, horizontal arm attached to the vertical arm parallel with the extension and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the girth measurement for coats at the junction with the skirts, substantially as described. y

5. A tailors drafting device for marking out patterns for garments, comprising in its construction a body portion having a suitably-shaped outline to form the pattern for the back and shoulder of the garment and having upon it suitably located and arranged series of graduated and numbered apertures or pin-holes, a series of marking-slots having a definite relation to said series of apertures or pin-holes, a horizontal, lower portion or extension removably' secured to the main body, a vertical limb pivoted to the extension and provided with graduated apertures arranged to indicate the girth or waist measures of coats, and a lower horizontal arm provided With apertures arranged to indicate the girth measurement for coats at the junction with the skirts, said lower arm being curved on its lower edge, the curve disappearing at and continued along the inner edge of the vertical limb of the extension and serving as a rule for marking out the back curve for cut-away coats,substantially as described.

6. A tailors drafting device for marking out the various parts of the bodies of coats or similar garments, provided with a removable extension having graduated apertures for marking girths or waist measures, a vertical limb for marking out the skirt portions thereof pivoted to the extension, a lower horizontal arm secured to the vertical limb and a catch for removably securing the eX- tension to the main body portion, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I hereunto affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

lABE N. ROSENBLOOM.

Witnesses:

MEYER DUBINSKY, Louis W. KoPLIN.

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