US660175A - Adjustable chart. - Google Patents

Description

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AnJusTABLEcH-ART.

(Application led Mar. 15, 1900.)

(No Model.)

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F51? EURE mm unisi SKINS BV H/S ATT'KS, #jab/k f90-w Patented 0st. 23,190 W. B. WILLIAMS. o ADJUSTABLE cHAT.

(Application l-ed las. 16, 1900.)

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NI'InD ASimfree I PATENT FFIC.

WILLIAM R. WILLIAMS, OF LAWRENCE, KANSAS.

ADJUSTABLE CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 660,175, dated October 23, 1900. Application filed March 15, 1900. Serial No. 8,747. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.'

Be it known that I, WILLIAM R. WILLIAMS, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Lawrence, in the county of Douglas and State of Kansas, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Skirt-Cutting Charts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in adjustable skirt-charts, and aims to provide a device by the use of which ladies skirts of any preferred style may be cut direct from the material With perfect accuracy Without the employment of any special patterns and with the number of measurements of the form of the wearer aud the amount of fitting required reduced to a minimum, thus resulting in great economy of time and labor and enabling any person of ordinary skill, Without special education or experience in the art, to cut a skirt of any style conforming to all necessary requirements.

My invention relates especially to a skirtchart having the general contour of one of the sections or gores of a skirt, said chart being provided with scales of inches around all its edges, a series of intermediate scales extending longitudinally of the chart and indicated by perforations through the body of the chart, and a plurality of pivoted extensions or slides located at the corners of lthe chart, said slides being also provided With scales indicated thereon to be used in connection With the scales of the chart proper.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a top plan view of one of my skirt-charts with the pivoted slides attached thereto extended in position for use, the position of such slides when not in use being shown by dotted lines. Fig'. 2 is an enlarged detached view of the extension or slide employed in cutting circular skirts or other skirts having Wide gores. Figs. 3, 4, 5, and. 6 are enlarged detached views of four other pivoted slides employed in connection With my device.

The chart may be made of any suitable material having the requisite tenacity and durability, preferably of heavy document Manila cardboard having a smooth-surface finish, and the various lines, inscriptions, dto., upon the chart are printed thereon,preferably from a lithographie plate.

and also the best hanging effect.

The chart is always properly used With,

the lower edge 1, as shown in Fig. 1, toward theloperator, and this edge may thereforebe termed the front edge, the edge 2, corresponding to the Waist-line, being at the left end of the chart, and the edge 3, corresponding to the bottom of the skirt, being at the right end. The slides 4 5 6 7 8, the use of 'which will be hereinafter explained, are rotatably attached to the under surface of the chart by pivots 9 10 11 12 13, respectively,

and, with the exception of No. 8, are supported on the chart, at the ends opposite their pivots, by pin-and-slot joints 14 15,16 17, re-

spectively, headed pins attached to the slides extending through curved slots in the chart. The slides may be moved in and out by pressure applied to the heads of said pins, which are larger than said slots.

In the case of the slide 8 for cutting circul lar skirts a tuck or loop is provided, as shown lin dotted lines in Fig. 1, on the under side of the chart, Within which the end of the slide is inserted when not in use. Said slide is also provided With a button or stop 18, which is made to abut against the upper edge of the chart when in use to hold the slide 8 in Working position at the proper point.

The front edge 1 of the chart is provided: With a scale of inches, measured from the waist-line 2 and extending therefrom preferably to a distance of forty-three and onehalf inches, all above and including eighteen inches being indicated in figures inscribed on the scale. The Waist-line 2 is preferably six inches in length, not including either of the,

slides 11 8. Saidline is lanv arbitrary curve l which has been found in practice to be the proper one to secure the best lit of the skirt Six inches to the right from said Waist-line 2 a hip-line 19 is indicated on thechart in dotted or full lines, as preferred, said hip-line 19 being IOO such as have been found to secure the best Y results. Said right-hand edge is formed on an arbitrary curve, which has been found in practice to be the proper one to make the skirt hang parallel with the iioor, and said edge is provided with a scale graduated from one to twenty-two inches, extending from front to back.

About centrally of the chart a line (designated as scale I) extends from the left-hand edge to the right-hand edge, meeting the latter at the eleven-inch mark and meeting the hip-line about half-way between the front and back edges, after which said line is continued to the waist-line parallel with the back edge. Along the right-hand end of said line is arranged a series of perforations 21 through the chart, said perforations being one-half inch apart, beginning with the minimum length of a ladys skirt-say twentynine inches-and extending to forty-four inches at the right-hand edge.

Before proceeding further with the description of the chart an illustration will be given of its use in cutting one of the gores of an ordinary skirt-for example, the front gore. The material being first spread out upon a table, and of double thickness in this case, the chart is laid upon the goods with its front edge coinciding throughout with the fold of the goods and with slide 4 extended. A mark is then made on the goods to indicate the width of the gore at the top or waist-line, such point being found on the scale or line 2 at a proper distance from the corner of slide et, extended usually three inches for a slender or medium figure. A mark is then made on the goods at the front edge of the chart to indicate the length of front-say, for example, forty inches. A mark is then made through one of the perforations in scale I to indicate the length of the back edge of the gore, which should be one-half inch longer than the front edge to give proper curvature to the bottom edge. The chart is then moved on the goods or drawn toward the operator and placed so that its back edge will coincide with the marks made at the' waist-line and in scale I. A line is then drawn on the goods between the points mentioned, using the back edge of ing the bottom curve in a similar manner. An ordinary skirt being composed of a front and back gore and two or more side gores, the next step is to cut the side gores. For this purpose an additional scale E is provided on the chart, extending from end to end thereof about four inches from the back edge and eighteen inches from the front edge at the bottom line 3. The gradations of said scale are indicated by a row of perforations extending through the chart one-'half an inch apart and numbered toward the right from twenty-nine to forty-four and one-half inches. The lower edge of the chart is placed on the straight edge of the goods, the proper measurement of the waist-line of the gore indicated on the goods at the proper point on scale 2, and the length of the front edge of the side gore marked at the proper point Y on scale l, which, to continue the previous illustration, would be forty and one half inches. The back edge of the side gore is then located at the proper point on scale E by marking through the perforation at that point or at forty-one inches. The chart is then moved toward the operator and a line drawn on the goods, as before, between the points marked, from which line the proper cut maybe made. The lower line of the gore is then located by using the right-hand edge of the chart, as before described. The second side gore usually employed would be drafted in the same manner. The back gore, if made with a central seam, as usual, would be drafted in the same manner as the front and side gores, except that for this purpose, the back gore being the widest section of the skirt, the entire width of the chart is usually employed, its front edge being used to locate and draft the front edge of said gore and its back edge for the back edge of said gore.

The description of the construction and uses of the chart thus far has referred to the drafting of ordinary skirts. For drafting flaring or bell-shaped skirts additional curved scales J and K are provided, lying near the straight scales I and E, respectively, but curving forward from said scales from near the hip-line downward for about two-thirds of the length of the skirt. Said curved scales J and K are indicated by perforations about two inches apart, through which, in practice, marks are made on the material, and after the chart is removed the proper line is located by tracing for back edge of front or side gore from point to point thus indicated. The continuation of this curved line to the bottom of the skirt is made by the use of the slide 6. The back edge of the chart is brought to coincide with the ends of the curved line before located, and slide 6 is then extended as far as necessary, according to the degree of flare desired, and the draft then completed by using the rear edge of said slide as a guide. The end of the gore is drafted in the manner before described for the ordinary gores, except that the end of the slide is utilized for the part IOO IIO

included in the Hare. A curved scale L (indicated by perforations) is also provided, `extending along the front edge of the chart, for drafting the front line of the side and back gores of flaring skirts. In practice the front edge of the chart is made to coincide with the front edge of the material and the perforations utilized in locating the upper portion of the line of the gore in the manner before described for the back edges. The slide' is utilized for drafting the bottom extension of the front and lower edges of said gore for iiaring skirts in the same manner as slide 6 is used, as before described. y

The slide 4l is used extended, as in Fig. l, for drafting the front gore in order to secure the proper front line for said gore, but is not used for the side gores, the front lines of which conform at this point to the shape of the chart proper.

The slide 7 is for straightening and raising the waist-line when cutting the back goreon the fold of the goods or without a seam in the center of said gore. If said gore is made with a central seam, the waist-line is conformed to the shape of the chart proper.

For drafting and cutting circular skirts or other skirts or gores with wide tops an additional scale F is provided on the chart and the elongated graduated extension 8, pivoted on the chart at 13. Said scale F is located in the upper right-hand corner of the chart, parallel with its upper edge and about two inches therefrom. Itis indicated by perforations about one-half inch apart placed opposite the figures of the scale on the upper edge of the chart, so that said figures may be utilized in connection with scale F.

The extension S is provided with a scale of inches measuring when in operative position from the lower left-hand corner of the chart, with the slide 4 extended a distance, preferably,of twenty-two and one-half inches. The left-hand edge of said slide is a continuation of the curve of the waist-line 2 of the chart proper and is an arbitrary curve found in practice to be correct. The figures on the scale represent measurements on the waistline from front to back. At the right of said figures are lines and inscriptions indicating the total net waist measurements to which the figures on the scale correspond, the tigures on the scale indicating the width of the top of one side of the skirt, (both sides being usually cut at once,) and therefore the distance to be marked off on the goods for the top line of the' skirt in drafting it. From this top line is to be deducted the darts or arrow-shaped excisions to be made in order to get the proper fit at the waist. For example, if the waist-line of the skirt when completed is to have a total measurement of twenty-four inches the mark on the goods (the same being doubled or faced is to be made at the eighteen-inch point on the scale, which represents thirty-six inches, including both thicknesses of the material. The excisions for darts, fullness, &c., usually taking up six Y inches on each side, or twelve inches altogether, will reduce the thirty-six inches to twenty-four inches,the net measurement desired. The waist-line for the circular skirt having been located and marked on the goods, as described, using the edge of extension 8 as a guide, the front edge of the chart is applied to the fold of the goods and the length of front marked off in the same manner as for the front gores of ordinary skirts. A mark is then made on the goods through the proper perforation in scale F, dropping one inch lower than the point located on the front line. A mark is also made on the goods at the hip-line on the upper edge of the chart. The chart is then moved forward until its front edge coincides with the point thus located and the same process repeated, the waist-line of the chart proper being always made to coincide with the curved line previously drawn on the goods by the use of extension 8 and the lower line of the skirt being drafted by using the right-hand edge of the chart in the manner before described for gores of ordinary skirts. After this process has been performed three times the back edge of the skirt is drafted by using the back edge of the chart as a guide, as in the case of the gores. In this process the waist-line is not to be allowed to overrun the measurement previously made for such line, and, if necessary, any excess would be taken off by placing the upper left-hand corner of the IOO chart at the limit-of waist measurement (eighteen inches in the example given) and drafting the back edge with the chart in that y position. n

At the edge 2 or waist-line of the chart,as at 22, and also on extension 8, are indicated converging lines to be used as a guide in drafting the darts or excisions to be made to take out fullness at the waist-line. A series of perforations 23 in the body of the chart provides for locating the point of the dart, and the side lines may be located by marking on the goods at the outer margins of the darts. In the case of the dart indicated on extension S no perfor-ations are necessary as the width of the extension corresponds to the proper length of the dart.

IIO

Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 are enlarged details of l slides at 5 6 7. Slides 5 and 6 are provided on their curved ends with scales to aid in fixing the amount of curvature in the gores of iiaring skirts. vided with scales, but simply with inscriptions indicating their uses.

Slides et and 7 are not pro-l The foregoing illustrations and description have been given to indicate the general quired preliminary to the use of the chart are three in number-Viz., the size of the Waist and the length of front and back skirt. These being settled all neoecessary details may be Worked out and drafted expeditiously and correctly by the use of the chart, as described.

It is obvious that the ehart may be utilized for drafting either skirts, linings, or patterns.

Having described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent- A skirt-cutting chart having the shape of one of the gores of a skirt, the bottom edge thereof having the correct curvature for

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