US628296A - Adjustable garment-drafting chart. - Google Patents

Description

No. 628,296. Patented July 4, I899.

' r. ATWELL.

ADJUSTABLE GARMENT DRAFTING CHART.

(Application-filed Jan. 19', 1899.)

(No Model.)

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

' No. 628,296. Patented July 4, I899.

F. A. ATWELL. ADJUSTABLE GARMENT DBAFTING CHART.

(Ap plication filei Jan. 19, 1399.

(No Model.) 3 SheetsSheet 3.

i i/wees o I v A A Z w UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

FRED AGUSTUS ATWELL, or eALEToN, PENNSYLVANIA. Y

ADJUSTABLE GARM ENT-DRAFTING CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 628,296, dated July 4, 1-899.

Application filed J'anuaryJQ, 1899. Serial No. 702,650. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that LFRED AGUSTUS ATWELL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Galeton, in the county of Potter and State of Pennsylvania, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Dressmakers Charts, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates to an'improvement in dressmakers charts, and more particularly to an improved device of the character named adapted for cutting dress-skirts.

The characteristic features of the invention will be fully described hereinafter, and are illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a plan view of the device ad'- j usted to cut a gore of certain dimensions. Fig. 2 is a similar view illustrating the device adjusted to define a gore of different dimensions from the one shown in Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional view through a portion of the device with my improved clamp in place thereon, and Fig. 4: is an enlarged perspective of the clamp detached.

The numerals l and 2 designate two longitudinal strips of wood, sheet metal, or any other suitable material having lateral extensions 3 and 4 at the inner sides of their ends. Each of the strips 1 and 2 is formed with a slot 5, extending throughout the length of the strips, and also with slots 5 near the outer edges of the strips for a purpose hereinafter described. The lateral extensions 3 and 4 are also each provided with a slot 6.

Adjustably secured to the longitudinal strips 1 and 2 are a plurality of transverse strips, four being shown in the drawings, designated, respectively, by the numerals 7, 8, 9, and 10. The strip 7 at the upper ends of the longitudinal strips is the waist-measure strip. 8 is the hip-measure strip. 9 is a facing-guide,and 10 is the bottom strip,by which, in connection with the strips 1 and 2, the length of the gores is determined. Each of the parts 7, 8, 9, and 10 is provided with a slot 11, which slots intersect those in the longitudinal strips, and through these intersecting points are passed headed bolts 12, held adjustably by thu1nb-nuts.l J a To secure the cloth to the chart, I provide rods or bars 14 corresponding in length to the strips 1 and 2 and similar bars corresponding in' length to the top and bottom strips 7 and 10. These fastening-bars are placed below the strips and are provided with pins or pegs 15, which extend through the slots 5 in the strips and through the cloth, holding the latter to the strips. The fastening-bars are clamped to the strips detachably by metallic clamps 16, each formed of a single piece of metal, with a hook 17 at one end to engage the edges of the adjacent strips, as shown, and having its opposite end 18 rounded to form a handle.

To facilitate the adjustment of the strips, they are made in two or more sections secured together by nuts and bolts 20.

Each of the several adjustable strips is provided'with a scale indicating inches, and the transverse strips are readily adjustable upon the longitudinal strips, and vice versa.

The utility and mode of operation of the device may be described as follows: It being understood that the gores of a skirt vary both in width and length, according to the prevailing style, the parts of the device are so relatively arranged by adjustment as to define the outline of the gore with respect to the waist-measure,hip-measure,and height of the wearer. The waist and hip measures being given, the longitudinal strips 1 and 2 are moved to the proper points on the top strip 7 and strip 8 to correspond to the measures, and the bottom strip 10 is also adjusted upon the strips 1 and 2 to correspond to the lengthmeasure. As shown in Figs. 1 and 2, the strips are differently adjusted for the front and side gores, the adjustment depending entirely upon the number of gores to be employed in the skirt.

Inasmuch as the invention is not confined to any particular relative adjustments of the parts, no more specific explanation of the use of the device is required.

The strip 9 is a gage for cutting facings, the width or depth of the facing being determined with relation to the length of the shirt by the two strips 9 and 10.

22 and 23 designate V-shaped gages to guide the operator in the formation of darts. These gages are adjustablysecured by bolts '24 to the waist-strip 7 and are pivoted by bolt 26,

which also secures the gages to the strip 8. The dimensions and gradual taper of the darts are determined by the dart-scale Ni on said strips '7 and S,

I claim 1. The combination with the scale-strips 1 and 2 provided with slots 5 and 5, of transverse scale-strips 7,8 and 10, means for securing" the strips together, adjustable slides arranged on the strips 1 and 2, fastening-bars let provided with pins and clamps 16 for securing the fastening-bars in place.

2, The combination with the slotted strips 1 and 2, of the waist and hip strips slotted as described, adjustable bolts for securing the 15

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