US588353A - Buttonhole-sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

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P. F. RAYMOND, ZdQ' BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 1,588,353. Patented Aug. 17,1897.

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P F RAYMOND, 2d BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

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BUT-TONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. Nd. 588,353. I Patented Aug. 17,1897.

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(No Model.)

F. P; RAYMOND, 2d. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 588,353. Patented Aug. 17,1897.

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Patented Aug. 17,1897.

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- BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

N0.-5 88,35 3. Patented Aug. 17, 1897..

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. P. F. vRAYMOND, 2d. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 588.353. Patented Aug. 17, 1897,

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UNITED STATES.

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FREEBORN lit RAYMOND, 2b, or NEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

BUT TONHOLE-SEWlNG MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 588,353, dated August 1'7, 1897.

Application filed July 18, 1892. $e1'ialN0. 440,399. (No model.)

. 2d, a citizen of the United States, residing at Newton, in the county of Middlesex, in the State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Buttonhole- Stitchihg Machines, of which the following is? a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forminga part of this specification, in explaining its nature.

The invention relates to an organized buttonhole-stitching mechanism in which the buttonhole-clamps and clamp plateor plates are moved from stitching position to an anvil and cutter which are actuated While the clamps are in operative relation thereto, and which clamps and clamp plate or plates are then returned to their normal positioniand held stationary, while the stitching devices are caused to travel aroundathe edge of the buttonhole.

organization which shall permit both the rapid slitting of the bu ttonhole and the rapid stitching of its edges by devices which cooperatebut are independently actuated.

The invention is in some respects an imand House patents of 1863 and the Reece patents, Nos. 240,546 and 349,359..

The House and House patents describe a buttonhole sewing machine in which the stitching devices are movable about the edges of the stat-ionarily-held buttonhole-slit, but there is no description of a means for slitting the buttonhole.

The Reece patents describe a machine which follows the lines of the House and House description in that the material is held stationary and the stitching devices moved about the buttonhole-slit and which has in addition an anvil and.butt-onhole-cutter which are mounted upon the frame carrying the stitchingdevices and which are moved to the stationarily-held fabric, actuated to cut the buttonhole slit therein, and then moved from it'to bring the stitching devices into operative relation to the said slit.

The same mechanism which is used for intermittingly moving the stitching devices around the buttonhole-slit is also employed in .to stitch the buttonhole.

The mechanism in the Reece machine for giving movements to the cutter and anvil and the, stitching devicescomprises a cam-disk having two cam-grooves, one of which revolves around a stationary cam-pin and both of which are connected with the frame carrying the cutting and stitching devices. There is also in thejReece machine no provision for return- .ing the stitchingdevices after the stitching of the. buttonhole to their original position excepting that derived from the continued movement of the frame-feed cams after the stitchinghas been completed.

My invention differs from the Reece in that the'stitching devices and their supportingi framework are not moved except to stitch the The object of the invention is to provide'an edge of the buttonhole, in that the buttonhole-slitting devices are not carried by the frame which carries the stitching devices, in

that no additional movement of the frame or frame-feeding devices after the stitching of the buttonhole is needed for restoring the stitch-forming devices to their original position, and in that the clamp-plate and clamp are bya continuous and rapid movement fed to and from stationary buttonhole-cutting mechanism by devices entirely independent of the stitching devices or frame-feeding mechanism and before they are started.

One of the practical advantages of my invent-ion as compared with the House and House machine is that the automatic buttonhole-cutting devices are organized into the machine without requiring but a little more time for their operation, and one of the advantages of my invention as compared with the Reece is that by disassociating the buttonhole-slitting mechanism from.the stitching devices and not requiring a further operation of the feeding-cams to restore the stitching devices to their normal position at the end of the stitching of the buttonhole a very considerable saving in the time of the operations of slitting and stitching is accomplished, and by Said disassociation and by giving the frame carrying the stitching de-.

vices a shorter throw a stiffer, stronger, and better construction is obtained.

The invention relates to various other features of organization and construction, which will hereinafter be fully described.

Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 is a view in side elevation of a machine having the features of my invention. Fig. 2 is a view in horizontal section substantially u pen a line with the cutter-lever and in plan of parts below said line. Fig. 3 is a view principally in elevation to illustrate the starting mechanism. Fig. 4 is a view of one of the feed-cams to which reference is hereinafter made. Fig. 5 is a view showing the mechanism for returning the stitching devices at the end of the stitching operation and of the movement of the frame to their normal position. Fig. 6 is a view in section showing the clutch mech anism of the stitching devices to which reference is hereinafter made. Fig. '7 is a plan view of the bed of the machine without any of the parts mounted on it. Fig. 8 is a plan view of the bed, showing certain parts mounted on it, some of these parts being broken away in horizontal section. Fig. 9 is a plan view of the cam-disk for feeding the stitching mechanism.

A is the bed of the machine. It is stationary. It has at its forward end guideways a for directing the movement of a slide-plate A. This slide-plate carries the clamps A A which preferably are mounted upon the separable clamp plates A A the clampplates being pivoted at a (t respectively, to the slide-plate A. The stationary bed A has at its center and rear end a slideway I) for the frame B. This frame has the upperarin B and the lower arm B These arms carry the stitching devices B B and the frame 13, and the stitching devices are like these described in the Reece patents above referred to (with the exception hereinafter noted) and shown in the Reece machine and need not further be described here.

The frame B is provided with its traveling or feed movement by the cams 1; (see Fig. 4) and b in the cam-disk B The cam-disk is mounted upon the central bearing-post b of the frame and moves with the frame, the cam Z) engaging the stationary cam-pin Z), which is attached or secured to the cross-bar b of the stationary bed. The cam 11 is conneeted with the frame B through the lever I), as described in said Reece patents, and the traveling frame is adapted to be swung on its pivot b" by said cam, as therein specified, to give the stitching mechanism a proper lateral movement about the eye of a buttonhole. There is, however, this distinction between the cam-disk and its cams and the cam-disk and cams of the Reece patents: The cam-disk B is directly connected with the main shaftC of the stitching-machine, to be operated byit only when it is started, and not with an eccentric upon a constantly-rotating hub of the driving member of a clutch.

The cam-disk also makes its full revolution during the stitching operation, usingno part of its time for the cutting operation. Consequently the cam-disk has fewer feeding-teeth and the cam Z) shorter travel, its travel being limited to move the framework and stitching devices only the length ofa buttonhole andnot about twice the length of a buttonhole, as is necessary when it is employed for moving the buttonhole-cutting mechanism into and out of position and the stitching devices back and to their normal position. The cam b is also modified slightly to meet the decreased throw of the frame and stitching devices-and the conditions incidental thereto.

The cam-disk is intermittently rotated by the eccentric c on the main shaft 0 of the stitching mechanism and the lever c, which acts to reciprocate the cam-disk clutch in the same manner as described in said Reece patents, the differencein the clutch mechanism being that the devices which serve to throw it into and out ot'operation,not being needed,are not employed, the clutch being actuated by its lever 0 only during the rotation of the shaft 0 and having no connection with the operation of the buttonhole-cutting devices.

The clamps A A are depressed upon the work and clamp-plates by the movement of the starting-lever D. This lever and the mechanism connectingit with the clamps and the mechanism for automatically releasing the clamps at the end of the stitching of the buttonhole are like those described in the Reece patent No. 34:9,359 and need not further be described here, excepting that the clampclosing arms, depressed by the lever D, are pivoted to the slide-plate A instead of to the stationary bed of the machine, as in the said Reece patent.

The buttonhole-cutter E is not attached to the frame 13 to move with it, but is pivoted at e to stationary ears 6, risingfrom the stationary bed A, and is provided with a movement toward and from the stationary anvil E by means of the cam E upon the independent and non-traveling shaft F. This shaft is supported, preferably, by stationary supports rising from the bed A, and ithas atone end the driven member F of a clutch fastened to it and the driving member F which is loose upon it and which is adapted to engage the member F at the will of the operator and impart to it one revolution.

The plate A carrying the clamps and clampplates is moved from a position in operative relation with the stitching devices to a position over the anvil and below the cutter E by means of the draw-cam A on the shaft F, and the draw-bar a and the slide-plate, clamps, and clamp-plates are returned after the drawing action of the cam A and the operation of the cutter to their original position by the springs o The clam p-plates A A are spread after the buttonhole-slit has been cut, but before they have been returned to their stitchin g position,by the tapering spreader G, which IIO is carried at the end of the push-bar g andv which is actuated by the cam G on the shaft F to be moved or pushed between the two plates A A immediately before the cam A releases the slide A to permit of its quick return. A spring g serves to return the spreader G to its original position after the operation of the cam G.

From what has been stated it will be seen that the first operation of the machine is to close. by the movement of the lever D the clamps upon the fabric held by the clampplates. This movement instantly sets in operation the shaft F, the lever D being connected with the clutch, as will hereinafter be specified. The clamps, clamp-plates, and slide A are instantly moved to cutting position, the cutter actuated, the clamps spread, and the clamped fabric, clamp-plate, and slide returned to their stitching positionthat is, to a stationary position in relation to the stitching devices, which are then caused to travel about the edge of the buttonhole-slitin which position they remain at restfduring this subsequent stitching of the buttonhole. The instant they resume this position the buttonhole-stitching devices are set in operation and the cam-disk B for the first time operated and the forward end or ends of the frame B caused to travel about the edge of the buttonhole-slit, the shaft F making but one revolution and then automatically stopping, and at the end of its revolution communicating, through mechanism to be described, to the stitching-machine shaftclutch a starting movement.

The shaft F is started by withdrawing the latch H from the spring-actuated engaging lug h. This permits the lug to be engaged by a projection on the driving member and a revolution of the shaft Fto be made. The

lug or tooth is disengaged at the end of one revolution by the return of the latch H to original or normal position. The latch projects inward from the upper end of the bar h. (See Fig. 3.) The slide-bar has at its forward end the shoulder or tooth 7L and the upward extension or fulcrum-point h The trip or starting lever D has a long pawl 71 pivoted at 72 held in contactwith the stop 7? by a spring h". When this trip or lever D is moved from the position represented in Fig. 3 to that represented by dotted outlines in the same figure, its first action is to throw downward the clamps A A Its continued movement brings the end of the pawl into engagement with the tooth h and causes the slide it to be moved sufficiently to disengage the latch H from the lug h. Further movement of the slide 71 causes the pawl h to be lifted from the tooth 72 by the under surface of the pawl riding upon the f ulcrunrpoint If, the center or pivot point 7L5 of the pawl lowering as the lever is moved sufficiently to cause the end of the pawl ,to be lifted or pried from the tooth, and this permits the spring h to move the slide backward regardless of the position of the starting-pawl 7L and of the position of the lever D, as upon the lifting of the end of the pawl k the tooth b will be immediately moved backward under it, so that it cannot be again engaged by the pawl until the trip-lever has been returned to its normal position.

The clutch of the shaft of the sewing or stitching mechanism is like that of Patent No. 349,359. It-has the driving member and the driven member 0 and the lever-arm K and engaging dog K are caused to be actuated by the lever K instead of by the controlling-bar, as described in said patent. This lever K is pivoted at k and has the short arm 70, which extends into the path of the starting-cam k on the shaft F. The long arm 15 of the lever extends under the, adj usting-screw k of the starting-lever K, and when the shaft F has about completed its rotation the cam k moves the lever K causing it to act through the lever K to disengage the dog and permit the engagement of the two clutch members 0 O and thus start the stitchingmachine shaft, the dog being held removed from the members of the clutch sufficiently to permit the-end of the adj usting-screw k to pass upon the raised surface k of the controlling-lever K It will be understood, of course, that upon the engagement of the member 0 C of the sewing mechanism 0 the frame 13 is immediately moved, and the screw is thus brought overthe raised section 70 of the controllinglever, and-the dog is thus maintained disen- 'gaged from the clutch so long as the frame moves forward and backward until it has sewed the last stitch of the buttonhole, when the screw rides 0E the raised section and the dog is brought into a position between the two members of the clutch and the further engagement of the two stopped. I

The clamps A A are released automatically at the stopping of the stitching mechanism as described in the said Patent No. 349,359. As the movement of the frame B and of the stitching devices longitudinally stops at the completion of the stitching of the last side of the buttonhole, and as the feedcams also then stop, it becomes necessary to return the stitch-forming mechanism namely, the needle-bars and loopersto their original position by other means than the cam employed in rotating them while stitching about the eye.

The mechanism turning the stitching devices in sewing about the eye is similar to that described in the said Patent No. 349,359. It comprises the pinions L L on the upper and lower needle-bars, respectively, the secthe rest Z, the operative run or section Z, and the rest Z whichterminates in the radial section Z connecting the end of the rest Z with the end of the rest Z. This radial section Z of the cam comes into line with the cam-pin Z of one of the sector-levers at the instant the buttonhole-stitching mechanism has sewed the last stitch and its shaft has come to rest, and the spring 1", connected with the sectorlever to act upon it, then serves to move the sector-levers backward to their original position and the cam-pin from the end of the rest Z to the beginning of the rest Z and at the same time rotatingthe needles and looping mechanism backward to their original position.

The cams B L are formed in a common disk, one in the upper surface and the other in the lower surface thereof, and it is supported upon a pivot or stud attached to the moving frame. It may be turned in any desired way. That which is described and illustrated is like a similar mechanism described in the said Patent No. 349,359, it being understood that the disk has by these means an in termittent rotation given it.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The fabric having been placed between the clamps and clamp-plates, the operator moves backward the starting-lever D, and by this action closes the clamp upon the fabric and against the clamp-plates and permits the engagement of the two members and the clutch of the shaft F, whereby it is set in operation and caused to make one revolution and stop. The movement of this shaft causes the clamps, clamp-plates, and clamp-plate slide to be drawn from their stitching position to a position which brings the material between the clamps underneath the buttonhole-cutter and over the anvil. The cutter is imm ediatelyactuated to cut the buttonhole-slit, the clamps are spread to open the buttonhole-slit, and the clamped material, clamps, clamp-plates, and slide are instantly returned to their stitching position, where they remain stationary during the subsequent stitching of the buttonhole. The buttonholc-stitching devices and mechanism are immediately and automatically set in operation and are moved with an intermittent feed movement about the edge of the buttonhole-slit around the eye and backward upon the other side of the slit, the stitching devices rotating during the movement around the eye, when the sewing mechanism and feed-frame automatically come to rest and the needles and loopers are automatically released and returned.

It will be seen that the movement of the clamps, clam p-plates, &c., from the stitching position to the cutter is a continuous and quick one, and that the return is also continuous and quick, and that the whole movement pared with the step-by-step feeding movement of the frame B in stitching.

It will also be seen that the frame B and stitching devices are moved only during the stitching of the buttonhole and only for the length of such buttonhole.

I would say that the stitching devices, so far as the needle and looper and their actuating device are concerned, may be like those of the Globe machine, and described in Reed and Dahl patents, Nos. 450,844 and 450,950.

Having thus fully described my invention, I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States 1. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the combination with the stationary bed of the machine provided with two slideways, of a traveling frame movable back and forth on one of said slideways, a buttonhole-stitching mechanism carried by said traveling frame, means for causing said frame to travel back and forth to carry the said stitching mechanism about a buttonhole-slit, a clamping work-holding device movable in the other of said slideways, a buttonhole-cutting mechanism which is stationary relative to the said traveling frame, means for moving the said clamping work-holding device to the cutter of the said buttonhole-cutting mechanism when a buttonhole is to be cut and for returning said clamping work-holding device to its normal position, where it will remain stationary until the next buttonhole is to be cut, and connecting mechanism, whereby when the machine is started the clamping work-holding device will first be moved to the buttonhole-cutter and then instantly returned to its initial position and remain stationary while the bnttonhole-stitching mechanism will be caused to travel about a buttonhole-slit to stitch the buttonhole, substantially as set forth.

2. The combination in a buttonhole-stitching machine of the bed-plate of the machine, a frame carrying the stitching devices at its forward end or ends, movable upon such bed, a cam-disk having a step-by-step rotation imparted to it, cams in said disk connected with said frame and constructed to move the same only the length of the buttonhole to be stitched,and to carry the stitching mechanism about the eye of the buttonhole, means for rotating the stitching devices a half-revolution during the stitching of the eye, and for holding them against rotation during the stitching of the sides of the buttonhole, including the cam L in the cam-disk, constructed to permit the immediate movement of the mechanism for rotating the stitching devices at the end of the stitching of the last side of the buttonhole, and a spring connected .with said mechanism to actuate it at the end of the stitching operation to turn back the stitching devices to their original position, substantially as and for the purposes described.

3. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the

combination With a stationary bed, of workclamps supported by said bed, a traveling frame mounted on said bed, stitch-forming devices carried by said traveling frame, the traveling-frame-actuating cams also carried by said traveling frame, the disk B provided with the cam-groove L connected with said stitch-forming devices and having the rests Z and Z the operative section Z and the releasesection Z and means for returning said stitchforming devices to their initial positions, substantially as described.

4. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the combination with the stationary bed of the machine, the traveling frame mounted thereto move it only the length of the buttonhole to be stitched, a cam constructed, as specified, to rotate the stitch-formin g devices in one direction only, means for returning said stitchforming devices to their initial position, a clutch to engage the said cam-disk, and an intermediateclutch-actuating lever operated by said eccentric, and members of a clutch upon the said shaft O,'all constructed and arranged, as specified; whereby upon the engagement of these members of the clutch the said shaft is actuated and the stitch-forming devices and the cam-disk, or frame-moving mechanism, simultaneously started, as and for the purposes described.

5. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the combination with the stationary bed of the machine provided with two slideways, of a traveling frame movable back and forth on one of said slideways, a buttonhole-stitching mechanism carried by said traveling frame, means for causing said frame to travel back and forth to carry the said stitching mechanism about a buttonhole-slit, a clamping workholding device movable in the other of said slideways, a buttonhole-cuttin g device mou nted on said stationary bed of the machine, start and stop motion mechanism for said shaft and devices on'said shaft connected with the clamping work-holding device and buttonhole-cutting mechanism and serving to move the said work-holding device to the cutting mechanism and to actuate the said cutting mechanism to form a slit in the material held by the clamp and to separate the members of the clamps, and means for returning the said clamping work-holding device to stitching position after a buttonhole has been cut.

6. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the combination with the stationary bed of the machine provided with two slideways, of a traveling frame movable back and forth on one of said slideways, buttonhole-stitchforming devices carried by said traveling -the said shaft F, for moving the said workholding device to the buttonhole-cutter and for operating said cutter, and means for returning the said work-holding device to its initial or stitching position; whereby when the machine is started the work-holding device will be moved to the buttonhole-cutter,

a buttonhole-slit out, said work-holding device be instantly returned to stitching position, the said stitch-forming devices then be set in operation and caused totravel about the stationary buttonhole-slit for thepurpose of working a buttonhole and the machine then be automatically stopped, substantially as described.

7. In a buttonhole-stitching machine, the combination with the stationary bed of the machine provided with two slideways, of a traveling frame movable back and forth on one of said slideways, a buttonhole-stitching mechanism carried by said traveling frame, means for causing the said frame to travel back and forth to carry the said stitching mechanism about a buttonhole-slit, a clamping work-holding device movable in the other of said slideways, a buttonhole-cutting mechanism which is stationary relative to the said traveling frame, means for moving the said clamping work-holding device to the cutter of said cutting mechanism when abuttonhole is to be cut and for returning said clamping work-holding device to its initial position, the said buttonhole-stitching mechanism and the said buttonhole-cutting mechanismbeing independent of each other, and the latter being stationary relative to the former, and means for successively operating the said mechanisms so that when the said cutting mechanism is in operation the said stitching mechanism will be at rest, and vice versa; whereby when the machine is set in operation the work will be quickly moved to the buttonhole-cutter, the buttonhole cut, the

Work instantly'returned to its normal stationary position and the said stitch-forming mechanism then be set in operation and be caused to travel about the buttonhole-slit to work the buttonhole.

FREEBORN F. RAYMOND, 2D. \Vitnesses:

J. M. DOLAN, .M. LYNCH.

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