US678825A - Automatic buttonhole cutting and stitching machine. - Google Patents

Description

Patented July 16, 190i. J. W.

LUFKIN.

I AUTOMATIC BUTTUNHOLE CUTTING AND STIT CHING MAGHINE.

(Application filed Mai. 13, 1901) (No Model.) I! Sheets8heat I.

THE annals REILRS ao mfimauwov. wAsulus ou, n. c.

No. 678,825. Patented luly l6, l90l.

' Jl. W. LIUFKIN.

AUTOMATIC BUTTUNHOLE CUTTING AND STITCHING MACHINE.

(Applicatioiz filed Mar. 13, 1901. (No Model.) II Sheets-Sheet 2.

; fir-------------- we nonms pcrznioo'imioumm WASHINGTON. a. c.

No. 678,825. Patantedluly I6, 19m.

J. w. LUFKIIII. I

AUTOMATIC BUTTONI'IIJLE CUTTING AND STITGHING MACHINE.

(Application filed Mar. 19, 1901. (No Model.

ll Sheets-Shoat 3 No. 678,825. Patented July Ilfi, IQUI, LUFKIN.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLEGUTTING AND STITCHING MACHINE. (Application 1511 Mar. 13, 1001. (No Model.) h

Hm 678,825. Patented July m, 190i.

.5. W. ILUFKIN. AUTOMATIC BUTTGWHBL'E CUTTING AND STITCHING MACHINE.

(Application filed Max. 13, 1901.) (No Model.) H Sheets-Shwat 5.

No. 678,825. I I Patented Iuly I6; I90I.

.I. W. LUFKIN.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND STITCIIIIIG MACHINE. (Application filed Mar. 13, 1901.) (No Model.)

III/Ill I I H y y I H I minmnm 7 241 No! 678,825. Patented July l6, l90l.

J. w. LUFKIN.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHDLE CUTTING AND STITCHIHG MACHINE.

. (Application filed Mar. 13, 1901.) (No Model.) ll Sheets $hoet 7.

No. 678,825. Patentedjuly I6, [901.

J. W. LUFKIM. AUTOMATIC BUTTUNHOLE CUTTING AND STITCHING MACHINE. (Application filed Mar. 13, 1901.) (No Model.) ll Shaets-Sheei 8.

No. 678,825. Patented My I6, 590i.

J. W. LUFKIN. AUTOMATIC BUTTDNHOILE CUTTING AND STITGHING MAGHINE. (A licatio Med Mar. 18, 1901. (No Model.)

ll Sheets-8heet EB.

No. 678,825; Patented .lluly w, l90l. .11. W. Mamm.

AUTOMATM; BUTTDNHULE BUTTIIM AND STETCHIM MACHINE.

(Application filed Mar. 13, 1901.) (No lflodpl.) ll Sheets-Sheet I0.

in in m: "cams PE ERS c0. womu'yum WASHINGTON, u. c

'No. 678,825. Patented m me, Hill. .a. w. ILUFKBM.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND STITCHTNG MAGHINE.

(Application filed Mar. 13, 1901.\ 1 (N.o Modal.)

UNITE States ATENT tries.

JOHN 1V. LUFKIN, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

AUTOMATIC BUTTONHOLE CUTTlNG AND STITCHENG MAGHENE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 678,825, dated July 16, 1901. Application filed March 13, 1901. Serial No. 50,950. (No model.)

To alt whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JOHN W. LUFKIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Automatic Buttonhole Cutting and Stitching Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

Figurel is a front side elevation of my improved machine. Fig. 1 is a detail, partly in section, at linel 1 of Fig. l of interlacer mechanism. Fig. 2 is a top plan view of the machine. Fig. 3 is an under plan view of the machine-bed and working parts carried or supported on the under side of the bed. Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the machine when the bed is tipped up and back on its supporting-bracket, a portion of the bracket being broken away. Fig. 5 is a top plan of the bed of the machine and of sundry working parts supported by the bed, the gooseneck of the machine being removed for greater clearness. Fig. 6 is a front end elevation of the machine with the front plate removed. Fig. 7 is a sectional view on a line corresponding'to 7 7 of Fig. 5, but showing the detail of the clamping and other mechanism not shown in Fig. 5. Fig. Sis in part an enlarged sectional detail of the parts shown in the upper righthand portion of Fig. 7, but shows the clamp ing-1ever and starting-pawl connected therewith in full lines. Fig. 9 shows in edge view and also partly in section a detail of the thread-tension plate. Fig. 10 isa rear elevation of the machine. Fig. 11 is a section on line 11 ll ofFig. 5 and shows details of the 1 Fig. 12 is an end stitching-starting shaft. View of the worm-gear loose on the stitchingstarting shaft and shows the pin-receiving recesses, with which one end of the worm-gear is provided. In this view the pin, which is projected from a pin-carrier fast on said shaft into one of said holes, is shown in section. Fig. 12 is mainly a lengthwise section of sundry working parts carried by the bed of the machine, showing also, partly in section and partly in elevation, cooperating parts above the parts carried by the bed. This view shows the stitchingstarting shaft and its connections with the stitching mechanism, the understitolling-shaft, some of the gears which turn the turn-table, and various other parts. The view in so far as it is a section is taken at a line corresponding to line 12 12 of Fig. 5 and also shows in section the cutter-anvil and interlacer. Fig. 13 is a view, partly in section, at line 13 13 of Fig. 5 and shows a detail of the under cutter-lever and its connection with the triangular cam on the stitching-starting shaft. Fig. 14 is a sectional View at line 14 14 of Fig. 5 and shows the loose worm-gear on the stitching-starting shaft en= gaged by the worm of the auxiliary shaft, by which the stitching-starting shaft is preferably driven. Fig. 15 is a view, partly in section, at line 15 15 of Fig. 5 and shows a detail of the work-clamp-locking mechanism. Fig. 16 is a view, partly in section, at line 16 16 of Fig. 3 and shows the construction of the worm with which the under driving-shaft of the machine is provided in order to vary the speed of the feed-wheel during the formation of each stitch. Fig. 17 is a top plan View of the turn-table, clamp, and spreading mechanism carried thereby. Fig. 18 is a plan View of a plate having a groove which controls the movements of the feed-pin,which passes from the turn-table through said guide-groove into a cam-groove in the feed-wheel underneath said plate. Fig. 19 is a View, partly in section, at line 19 19 of Fig. 5 and shows details of the mechanism which actuates the turntable. Fig. 20 is a side elevation, with spring attached, of the stop-lever which stops the machine at the completion of each buttonhole. Fig. 21 is a side elevation of a three-armed lever which is loosely mounted on the stitchingstarting shaft and is instrumental in stopping the machine at the end of the stitching of each buttonhole, in releasing the threadtension-opening lever, and in disengaging the connection between the stitching -starting shaft and the actuating mechanism of the under driving-shaft. Fig. 22 is an edge View of the lever shown in Fig. 21. Fig. 23 is a perspective View of the rocker-shaft forlocking the feed-wheel and stitching mechanism during the cutting of the buttonhole. Figs. 2 1 and 25 are views of the incline levers for unlocking the turn-table after the buttonhole is cut. Figs. 26 and 27 are different views of the worm-gear driven from the under cuttershaft, Fig. 26 being partly in section, so as to show the locking-stud with which it is provided. Fig. 28 is a central sectional view on line 28 28 of Fig. 26 and shows the locking-stud in its place in the worm. Fig. 29 shows'in plan and section, at line 0c of the plan, my new buttonhole in which the threads are superimposed at the small end of the buttonhole, the last stitch being in the same hole as the first stitch. Fig. 30 is an enlarged view illustrating the stitch made by my present machine, this stitch being that of the method of my United States Letters Patent No. 461,841 and this figure corresponding to Fig. 1 of that patent. Figs. 31 to 39 are views showing the concatenation of the threads at different stages of the formation of the stitch and showing also stitching instrumentalities in differentoperating positions. Fig. 31 shows the two threads through the upper needles and extending through the needle-holes of the throat-plate. Fig. 32 shows the threads interlaced around the needle which passes through the buttonhole-slit. Fig. 33 shows bothneedles through the throat-plate in position to form loops for the under thread. Fig. 34 shows the under needle or looper with its under locking-thread passed through the loops of the upper threads. Fig. 35 shows the upper needles in a rising position and shows the under thread passed through the upper-thread loopsand placed on the spreader. Fig. 36 shows the spreader placing its loop in position for the reception of the needle which passes through the buttonhloe-slit. Fig. 37 shows the descent of the upper needles .in forming the next stitch, the center needle,

the one which passes through the buttonholeslit, passing through the loop in the under thread which is held open on the spreader. Fig. 38 shows the under-thread-cutting knife cutting the under thread off after the last stitch of the bnttonhole is made while the under thread is still held on the spreader. Fig. 39 shows the position of the under thread as it is passed through the upper-thread loops, the cut end of the under thread being left extended through the upper-thread loops to prevent the final stitch from becoming loosened or ripping out. Fig. 40 is a side elevation of the work-clamp, showing the work-clamp lever lifted. Fig. 41 is a perspective showing mechanism whereby the work-clamp is connected with the under cutter-lever. Fig. 42 is a top plan of the threadcutter removed.

The objects of my invention are to simplify the mechanical construction of automatic buttonhole cutting and stitching machines and to produce an automatic buttonhole cutting and stitching machine that will be capable of producing a greater number of completed buttonholes in a given length of time than has been possible heretofore. It is to be understood, however, that the actual product of machines of this class is dependent in a'large measure on the skill and attention of the operators because the material to be cut and stitched has to be moved manually in the work-clamp after the completion of each buttonhole, these machines being automatic only in respect of the cutting and stitching of each buttonhole, separately considered.

Another object of my present invention is to produce the new kind of buttonhole hereinafter described according to the method of forming buttonhole stitches patented in my United States Letters Patent No. 461,841, of October 27, 1891. My present machine is the first one I have been able to devise for carrying out in a highly successful manner the said patented method.

A brief reference to the prior art will assist in understanding the nature and scope of my invention.

In numerous Letters Patent of the United States, among which are No. 50,253 to Humphrey, of October 3, 1865, No. 78,821 to Peabody, of June 9, 1868, and No. 115,163 to Chicken, of May 23, 1871, there is disclosed a type of buttonhole-stitching machine mechanical characteristics of which are, first, a clamping and spreading mechanism carried by a turn-table, and, second, a turning of the turn-table between .upper and under stitch forming devices to present successive portions of the margin of the buttonhole-slit to the stitching instrumentalities. The workclamp in this style of machine, which was long known as the Union, not only clamped the work, but gave an initial movement to the fabric by pulling the opposite clamped margins of the buttonhole-slit away from each other, so as to prevent stitching together the opposed edges of the buttonhole-slit. My present machine is a machine of said general type. This initial movement of the fabric is known as spreading.

In the expired Reece patent, No. 240,546, the gooseneck of the machine carries the needles and a buttonhole-cutter, and this upper arm or gooseneck travels over the material held in a work-clamp attached to the bed of the machine, the said clamp traveling sufficiently to effect said initial or spreading movement of the marginal portions of the fabric around the buttonhole-slit. The feedwheel or cam-disk j of this patent is rotated to effect the requisite movements of the machine by a friction-clutch j having a lever 5, which is in the path of a leverj vibrated by a suitable eccentric or cam 10 fast to a belt-wheel 1", which wheel and cam are loose on the main shaft (1?. The feed-wheel j is therefore given a step-by-step movement, and consequently there is some lost time in the operation of the machine, the mode of operation of which is, first, the work is inserted between the upper and under members of the work-clamp; second, the opera tor then moves the hand-lever p backward, and this movement of the hand-lever, which is at one side of the machine, causes the upper clamp members to pinch the work, the

machine being then started and then com-V pleting the entire cycle of operationsviz., third, movement of the cutting mechanism into cutting position in respect of the fabric between the clamp members; fourth, movement of the cutting mechanism to cut the buttonhole-slit; fifth, movement of the cutting mechanism away from cutting position, so as to permit the stitching operation to take place; sixth, the spreading of the fabric; seventh the proper movement of the gooseneck over the clamped fabric and the operation of the stitching instrumentalities to stitch all but the small end of the buttonhole, (which is to be completed by barring,) and, eighth, the automatic stopping of the machine and clamping of the work. Reeces United States Letters Patent No. 349,359, of September 21,1886, recites that it is for an improvement on the machine of said Letters Patent No. 240,546. In this improved machine the feed-wheelj is also intermittently rotated by the intermittent throw of a frictionclutchdog; but mechanism is provided so that when desired by an increased throw of the clutchdog the feed-wheel j may be rotated through a greater number of degrees of its circular path, so that the effective speed of the machine is greater than the the machine of No. 240,546. In the machine of Patent No. 349,359 the throw of the handlever or handle 33 at one side of the machine simultaneously clamps the work and starts the machine.

l-Iills United States Letters Patent No. 462,865, of November 10,1891, recites that it is for an improvement on the machine of the Reece Patent No. 349,359. In this Hill pat ent machine the feed-wheel j is combined with a friction-clutch, whereby it is intermittently rotated, Hills specific feed-wheel-actuating mechanism being constructed so as to have a longer throw than in the Reece Pat ent No. 349,359 in order to make the Hill type of Reece machine operate faster than the prior Reece machines of said two patents. In Reeces United States Patent No. 494,280, of March 28, 1893, other improvements on the machine of the Reece Patent No. 349,359 are set forth, and both in the Hill patent as well as in said second Reece patent the opera tion which clamps the fabric also starts the machine simultaneously with the clamping movement. The same thing is true of the automatic buttonhole cutting and stitching machines shown in Reed and Dahls United States Patent No. 450,844, of April 21, 1891.

An important feature of my improvement lies in dispensing with the old hand starting levers of the prior art, which hand startinglevers were at a distancefrom the work-clamp, and in constructing the upper clamp member of my work-clamp in suchwise that it may be operated so as to clamp the work without thereby starting the machine, said upper clamp member being capable of receiving after the work is clamped a second and independent movement, whereby the machine is effective speed of started and the stitching mechanism set'in motion and one or more complete stitches formed after the buttonhole has been cut and before the complete rotation of the cutteroperating and stitching-starting shaft has been efiected. The advantages of this novel construction are that, first, the operator may unclamp the fabric and relocate it in the clamp if it has been improperlylocated therein, and, second, may thereafter start the machine by a further movement of the upper clamp member, whereon the operators hand already is, Without losing time by reaching out to another part of the machine in order to get hold of the starting device.

In said Reed and Dahl patents, as well as in myUnited States Patent No. 451,498, of May 5, 1891, the work-clamp is supported on a plate which moves in order to feed the margin of the buttonhole-slit around under the needles, which are supported in an upper arm or gooseneck which is stationary in respect of the bed-plate and turn-table. In the machines of these three patents the clamped fabric is between the times of operating the stitch-forming mechanism for the production of two buttonholes in succession automatically reciprocated between stitching and cutting positions. In my Patent No. 451,498 the moving work-plate was rotary, as in the old Union machine, while the moving work-plate of the Reed and Dahl patents was non-rotary.

In the Reed and Dahl patent, No. 450,950, the clamped fabric is jumped back and forth between these positions by means of the cam c and springs c cooperating with other parts. (Shown in Figs. 9 and 10 of that patent.) In my Patent No. 451,498 the same reciprocation is effected by means of the angle-lever A one end of which is in engagement with the under cutter-lever of the machine and the other upper end of which engages the turntable at the proper time to move it and the Work-clamp carried by it from stitching position to cutting position and thence back again to initial stitching position after the buttonhole-slit has been cut preparatory to the stitching operation.

In the Hill and Reed and Dahl patents the time consumed in the cutting-feed period-- that is, during the time in which the feed of the machine is operative to cut a buttonhole between the times of operating the stitchforming instrumentalities for the production of two buttonholes in succession-is briefer or of shorter duration than the stitching-feed period. Such is also the case with the machine of my Patent No. 451,498. The rapid operation of the cutting mechanism between the stitching of two successive buttonholes has heretofore been considered as the proper way in which to proceed in order to produce an automatic buttonhole cutting and stitching machine of desired rapidity of operation; but I have discovered that still greater speed may be secured in machines of this class by making the cutting-feed period relatively long and the stitching-feed period relatively short in comparison one with the other, and a novel and important feature of my improvement over the prior art lies in continuously feeding the clamped fabric throughout the entire stitching period.

In order to carry out mechanically and at a possible high rate of speed the method of my said Patent No. 461,841, of October 27, 1891, I have devised my present machine, which, mechanically considered, is a devel opment of the machine shown in my said Patent No. 451,498, of May 5,1891. In my present machine I use two upper needles and one under needle or looper, while in my machine of Patent No. 451,498, as in the Reed and Dahl patent, No. 450,950, of April 21, 1891, only one u-pper needle was used. My

new machine therefore is required to operate in a wholly new and peculiar manner in order to concatenate its three threads in carrying out the method of my said Patent No.

The Reed and Dahl patent, No. 450,950, of April 21, 1891, granted on application filed April 21, 1890, and my Patent No. 451,498, of May 5,1891, granted on application filed April 28, 1890, show two identical combinations, as follows: First, The combination in a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine, of automatic bnttonhole-cutting mechanism actuated independently of the stitching mechanism, the buttonhole-stitching devices, and an actuating connection'between the independent automatic buttonhole cutting mechanlSlIl' and the stitching mechanism whereby upon the completion of the operation of the buttonhole-cutting mechanism power is communicated automatically to the stitching mechanism and the stitching mechanism started, and, second, In a but'tonhole cutting and stitching machine, the combination with the stitching mechanism,of an automatic buttonhole-cutter, meansindependent of the stitch-forming mechanism for operating said cutter, a clamp-plate, work-clamps, and an automatic clamp-spreading device to operate to spread the clamps after the actionof the Company and filed in the Patent Office March cutter. The foregoing combination formed the issues of interference No. 15,069in the United States Patent Office declared between the aforesaid applications, Serial No. 348,858,

of Reed and Dahl, and Serial No. 349,809 of myself, March 4, 1891, and decided in my favor March 27, 1891, upon a written concession of priority signed by said Reed and Dahl and by the Globe Buttonhole Machine One'object of my present invention is tov groove by spring b"? ling lever D.

of my invention and the best mode now known to me of applying that principle I illustrate my now preferred form of an automatic buttonhole cutting and stitching machine,wl1ereof A is the upper arm or gooseneck, and A the base-plate, which is conveniently mounted upon a bracket A and pivotally connected therewith at a. Anvil or brass B is conveniently mounted in a vertically-reciprocati-ng anvil-bar 13, mounted in suitable ways in the front end of gooseneck A. The anvil-bar lever B is pivoted at b in arm A and is loosely connected at b with the anvil-bar. This anvil-bar lever B is extended rearwardly of its pivot b and is connected with a link b connected with an eccentric-strap b on eccentric b of the transverse stitching-starting shaft B (See Figs. 1, 5, 11, and.12".) The stitching-starting. shaft B mounted above and transversely of base-plate A, is provided with a triangular cam 19, which cooperates with the overhanging rear end of the under cutterlever B, (see Fig. 13,) which is pivoted at b in base-plate A. The under cutter-lever B is provided at its front end with the reciprocating cutter B which cooperates with the anvil-B. The front-portion of the under cut ter-lever B" is provided with a link (see Figs. 3 and 4,) which extends upwardly and I is pivotally connected at b with the rockerarm I), pivoted in the depending lugs Z7 on the under side of the base-plate A. The free end of the rocker-arm b is provided with a cross-groove 0 (see Fig. 41) and has a vertical hole which opens into the bottom of said groove and contains a latch-pin b (see Fig. 41,) that is forced normally upward into said Thisljatch-pi-n has'a lateral projection Z1 through the side slot Z2 in the rocker-arm, the purpose or function of this projection?) being to force the latchpin I) back against the'tension of said spring 19 when it comes into contactwith .the incline d on the under side of the latch-releas- (See Figs. 24 and 25.)

In the present form of my machine the coaction of the projection 19 with the latch-releasing lever D when the cutting system of the machine is operated in connection with the fabric-clamping mechanism is as follows: 1 When the cutter and cutter-anvil are in buttonhole-cutting position, the rocker-arm b is 'moved toward the front side'of the machine,

so that the projection b is out of contact with the latch-releasing lever D, and it is when'the parts are in this position that the buttonhole is beingcut. The fabric in which the buttonhole is to be cut is placed on the turn-table D, providedwith the usual under jaws D and upper jaws D (see Fig. 17,) capable of the usual clamping and spreading movements. The fabric is clamped between the under jaws D and the upper jaws D which are carried by the rocking jaw-carrying frame (1, hinged at d to the latch-pin frame d (see Figs. 17', 7, and 8,) and frame d is held up by the spring 61 The frame cl is formed with two jaw-supporting arms d and is moved downwardly against the tension of spring 61 by the clampingdever D", pivoted in the uprights 61 of latch-pin frame 01 and provided with an car (1 which impinges on spring d The pivoted end'of lever D is provided with a pair of cam-lugs d, (see Fig. 1,) which when lever D is moved down press on the arms d of the upper-jaw-carrying frame d and moves said upper jaws tightly upon the fabric to be clamped, but without thereby starting the machine, another further and independent movement of the clampinglever D being required to startthe machine. The outer end of the latch-pin frame 01 (of which the uprights (PX are preferably an integral part) is provided with an open slot al which spans the upper end of the latch-pin l). The construction and said arrangement of the latch-pin frame and latch-pin I) will be best understood from Figs. 7 and 41. It is by these means in the present form of my machine that the turn-table D is mechanically connected with the rocker-arm 19 so as to be reciprocated from stitching position, whereat the fabric is clamped, to cutting position and back into stitching position. The function of the latch-pin is to prevent the turn-table and thereby supported work-clamp from turning or tending to turn during the time that the turn-table and supported workclamp are being reciprocated between the cutting and stitching positions. The clamping mechanism thus described is provided with the usual spreader D provided with a spreading-cam 61 which is in the form of an eccentric-tube mounted on post (2 fast on turntable D. Cam (Z engages the inner sides of the arms (1 which support the upper jaws D and also engage the inner sides of the rear parts of the under jaws D and, as heretofore, when the upper and under jaws are firmly pressed together on interposed fabric the opposite sets of jaws may be spread or moved apart after the hole is cutby swinging the spreader-lever D By this lateral movementof the pairs of clamping-jaws away from each other the spreading of the fabric iseffected. Spreader-lever D is moved automatically, as hereinafter described.

The latch-pin frame (I is provided with a feeding-pin P, which passes down through the turn-table and thence through the opening a in the cover-plate a into the space f which opens into the feeding-pin groove f of the feed-wheel F. (See Figs. 7, 18, and 5.) The rear end of the latching-pin frame d is provided on its upper side with an incline CPXX, and the upper end of the rocker-arm b is provided with a cap d the incline d of which overlaps the incline (P on the outer end of the latch-pin frame (1 (see Figs. 6 and 8) and so prevents the latch-pin frame from becoming accidentally lifted or sprung off from the latch-pin l). The upper surface of the cap 61 has the cam-surfaces 01 (see Fig. 8,) against which the outer end portion of the spreader-lever D operates automatically for the automatic spreading of the upper and lower clamping-jaws after the turn-table begins its stitching-feed movement, the feedwheel F, through its feeding-pin connection with the turn-table and thereby-supported parts, compelling rotation of the turn-table, and thereby moving spreading-lever D into engagement with the cam-surface (Z shortly after a part of the buttonhole-slit has been stitched.

The stitching-starting shaft B is provided with a worm-gear Z1 which meshes with a worm I)" on the drive-shaft 13 which is also provided with a fast pulley 19 In accordance with my present invention the stitching and cutting mechanisms are interdependent, the stitching-starting shaft B being provided with means for setting the cutter system in operation and the latter being inoperative unless having a mechanical connection with the stitching-starting mechanism.

Revolution of stitching-starting shaft B causes the high point of the eccentric b (fixed on the shaft) to move, so as to pull the link 17 downwardly, and thereby pull downwardly the rear end of the upper cutter-lever B so as to move the anvil-bar B and anvil 13 out of contact with the fabric and out of the path of the clamping mechanism. The same revolution of the stitching-starting shaft 13 causes the high point of the triangular cam b (fixed on the shaft) to engage the hook b which forms the rear end of the under cutter-lever B, so that the front end of the under cutterlever B is lowered, and the cutter B is thereby carried out of the buttonhole-slit in the fabric and down through the opening d of the turn-table D. Center plate f is fast on the hub ct, projecting upwardly from the base-plate A of the machine. (See Figs. 5, 12-, and 18.) This hub 0/ forms the bearing for the feed-wheel F. The center plate f is provided with an upwardly-projecting button or throat-plate f which projects up into the longitudinal slot (Z of the turn-table D and forms a stationary guide-bearing therefor during the reciprocating and turning movements of the turn-table and clamping mechanism supported thereon. (See Fig. 12%) The button or throat-plate f is provided with the needle-passage f one portion of which receives one upper needle and anotherportion ofwhich receives the other upper needle. Continued rotation of the stitchingstarting shaft 13 rotates the (driving-pin carrier d, (see Fig. 11,) whichis fast on said shaft and is provided with the-endwise-movable driving-pin (Z that is projected into one or another of the driving-pin holes 61 on the in nor side face of the worm-gear h so as to couple the driving-pin carrier and worm-gear I) together and to compel them to rotate coincidentally. This provision of the stitchingstarting shaft B with a power-driven memher and with a movable clutch member follows the construction of the expired Reece patent, No. 240,545, wherein the stitchingstarting shaft 0, is provided with a pulley r and clutch member 1", and wherein the stitching-shaft a like my stitching-starting shaft, is mounted transversely of the machine and sets the stitching mechanism in operation. In detail my construction differs from the old Reece construction. The Worm-gear b and the driving-pin carrier (1 are coupled together during the cutting operation and during the return ofthe cutter and anvil to their positions of rest; but to prevent the continuous operation of the cutter and cutter-anvil that is, to prevent their operating while the buttonh ole is being stitchedit is necessary to.

uncouple the worm-gear b from the drivingpin carrier d, so that the worm-gear may run free and the cutting mechanism remain inoperative-that is, as in the expired Reece patent, No. 240,545, the stitching operation does not begin until after the cutting operation is finished. WVhen the driving-pin 01 which is held forward in a hole e1 under the stress of the driving-pin spring d", (see Figs. 3, 5, and 11,) is brought around by the rotation of the stitching-starting shaft B toward the outer wedge-shaped end c1 of the cutterstarting lever d, the cam-faced lug (1 of the driving-pin rides the incline 61 on said outer end d of the cutter-starting lever d and the driving-pin 61 is thereby withdrawn from its hole c1 and out of engagement with the worm-gear b The spring (1", the free end of which engages the head of the driving-pin a, is also useful to keep the driving-pin from rattling and wearing when it is drawn back by the wedge-shaped end d of the cutterstarting lever (Z The cutter-starting lever d is pivoted at (1 to the base-plate of the machine, and its forward end d is held down by the spring 6P (see Fig. 3,) and the rear portion of the cutter-starting lever (Z where it is provided with the incline (Z is thereby held in contact with the cam-head of the driving-pin (1 The forward end d of the cutter-starting lever 61 extends upwardly through a hole a in the base-plate of the machine, (see Figs. 3, 4:, and 7,) and during the time that the cutting mechanism remains inoperative that is to say, during the time that the stitch-feeding and stitching operations are going onthis end (1 of lever d is either just out of contact with or in sliding contact with the under surface of the feedwheol F, which is provided on its under side with a hole (Z (see Figs. 3 and 5,) into which the upper front end 01 of the cutter-starting lever 01 may enter in order that the rear end of the cutter-starting lever (1 may be moved downwardly out of the path of the driving-pin (Z and permit the driving-pin to enter one of the holes al in the worm-gear under the tension of its spring (1".

Except when the upper end 61 of the cutter-starter lever 01 is opposite the hole 01 on the under side of the feed-wheel F it is impossible to move the cutter-starter lever d, and

consequently it is impossible to set the cutting mechanism in operation. This is a very important feature of my invention, because it makes it impossible for the operator of my new machineto accidentally start the cutting mechanism into operation While the stitching operation is taking place. A good deal of difficulty has been hitherto encountered in the operation of this type of machine by .the accidental starting of the cutting mechanism at a time when the turn-table was moved out of its proper position for the cutting operation, and it is therefore very important in order to prevent the anvil or cutter from bringing up against a solid portionof the turn-table or clamps to obtain a construction that renders a starting of the cutting mechanism impossible except when the turn-table is in proper position for cutting.

The inward movement of the rocker-arm I)", connected, as above stated, with the turntable, moves the turn-table and the workclamp thereon into position for stitching, this movement being in the direction of the length of the buttonhole-slit. When the turn-table and clamps have thus been moved so as to bring the buttonhole-slit into stitching position, the turn-table and clamping mechanism are to be moved in proper relation to the stitching instrumentalities by rotation of the feed-wheel F. It is therefore necessary that the turn-table and clamping mechanism be disconnectedthat is, that the clamping-pin frame d should be released from engagement with the latch-pin Z). The latch-pin b is therefore withdrawn out of the open slot d in the clamping-pin frame at", and to this end the slot b (see Fig. 6) in the upper end of the rocker-arm b is made open-ended, so that the downwardly projecting lug d2 of the clamping-pin frame, in which lug the said open slot d is received, may bemoved out of engagement with the rocker-arm Z)". As the upper end of the rocker-arm'h pushes the work-plate and the clamping mechanism forwardly from cutting into stitching position the projection I2 moves under the downward incline d of the clamp releasing lever D, which is pivoted at d, to the bed of the ma chine and held normally against the side of the rocker-arm b by the spring (1 Said projection Z9 is moved downwardly by its engagement with the incline d withdrawing the latch-pin from engagement with the slot d (See Fig. 41.) The free end 61 of the clamppin-releasing lever D projects into the path of a lug f of the feed-wheel F. (See Fig. 5.) When the turn-table and clamping mechanism carried thereby are moved into position for the stitching of the buttonhole-slit, the lower end of the feed-pin Pis carried through the open portion f of the feeding-pin groove f into the path of the feed-wheel follower F.

This follower is hinged at f to the feed-wheel and travels with the feed-wheel, and while its tooth f is in contact with the feed-pin P, which passes through the turn-table D and the feed-pin groove f the turn-table and the clamping mechanism carried thereby are compelled to move with the feed-wheel. The inner surface of the follower F presses upon the opposed cam-surface 66 (see Fig. 5) of the hub a, and from the starting-point until the feed-wheel has made a quarter of a revolution the follower F is held in one and the same position with relation to the feed-pin P, both traveling together. When follower F has traveled a quarter of a revolution, then its rear surface is brought opposite a recess a in the cam-surface a of the hub a and the follower F falls back into the recess a and out of contact with the feed-pin P, being dragged past and out of contact with the, feeding-pin by the continued rotation of the feed-Wheel F, which rotates continuously. This quarterrevolution carries the workplate and clamping mechanism carried thereby (and holding the fabric) from the middle of the small end wall of the buttonhole up to the beginning of the first straight sidethat is, from 5 to a" in the buttonhole shown in Fig. 29. The moment that the follower F passes out of contact with the feed-pin P the lower end of the feed-pin is engaged by the walls atf of the groove f. When the feedpin P is at the starting-point,it passes through the guidewayf, formed between the opposed edges of the center plate f and of the coven plate a having an irregular opening, within which the center plate j is mounted. (See Figs. 18 and 12%) The opening in the coverplate a is provided with a slot a, through which the feed pin P is moved in a right line in the direction of the length of the buttonhole-slit as the work-plate D is moved from the front toward the rear of the machine and back again. This to-and-fro movement of the turn-table takes place during the cutting operation. \Vhen feed-pin P is moved out of the slot a into guideway f it is brought into the position shown in Fig. 5, and (the buttonhole having been cut) the feedpin is in position to travel through guideway f, as it is pushed by the contact therewith of the follower F and delivered to the walls of the cam-groovef. l-Vhen the walls of the feedcam groovef begin to push upon the feedingpin P at the time that the follower F drops into the recess a the feeding-pin will be carried through the straight space at X, the follower F having first drawn the feed-pin through the curved space X of the guideway f. The formation of the first straight side of the buttonhole begins to take place as the feed-pin P is moved through the straight space at X. During the time that the feedpin is being pushed from its starting position (shown in Figs. 5 and 18) to the straight space at X one-half of the small end of the buttonhole is being stitched. The feed-pin P being thus carried toward the center of the machine and being guided by the opposed edges of the guideway f and finally drawn out of the straight space at X, the second follower F engages the feed'pin and moves the feed-pin through the curved portion X of the guideway f until the feed-pin is brought to the straight portion at X of guidewayf", this straight portion at X being op posite the straight portion at X. During the time that the feed-pin is traveling from the straight portion at X to the straight portion at X the large or eye end of the buttonhole is being stitched. The eye of the buttonhole is stitched while the feed pin passes through this curved portion X The second or last straight side of the buttonhole is stitched when the feed-pin travels through the second straight portion at X The second follower F is loosely pivoted to the feed- Wheel and is carried thereby opposite the re cess f in the hub ct, draggingpast the lower end of the feed-pin and permitting the feed pin to travel through the straight part at X of the guideway by its engagement with walls of the cam-groove f Thereupon the follower F having been brought around by the feed-wheel engages the feed-pin and carries it through the curved portion X of the guideway f to the point of beginning, then coinpleting the remaining half of the small end of the buttonhole. Then the follower F engages the feed-pin P the second time, its shoulder f is the part that impinges on the feed-pin and carries itto the point of beginning, where the rear shoulder f of the follower F recedes into recess f in hub a. The feed-pin and clam ping mechanism carried thereby are thus given one complete movement for carrying the buttonhole-slit entirely around for the stitching of the buttonhole. The feed wheel F, however, makes two full revolutions for the making of a single buttonhole.

Feed-wheel F is formed with a peripheral gearf which meshes with a gear f the shaft f of which is journaled in a suitable bearing in the base -plate of the machine. Shaftf is provided below the under side of the base-plate with. a gearf". This gear f" meshes with the worm G, carried by the under driving-shaft G, which at its outer end is provided with the driving-pulley G VJhen the buttonhole has been stitched, the machineis automatically stopped to give the operator the opportunity for resetting the fabric in the clamping mechanism for a new buttonhole. The automatic stopping of the machine at the completion of the buttonhole is effected in the present instance by the following instrumentalies: Said shaft f is provided with a fixed gear f which meshes with a gear f, fast on the hub f which is journaled in the bed-plate of the machine. A stop-lever F (for stopping the machine at the completion of each buttonhole) is fulcrumed on said hub f eccentrically of the center thereof. (See Fig. 3.) This stop-lever F is formed toward its front end with a laterally-projecting arm f which is at an angle to its front hookshaped endf (See Figs. 3 and 20.) Its rear end extends rearwardly of the machine and IIO ment with the transverse rocker-bar F this disengagement being effected by contact of the inclinef on theuppersurface of the under cutter-lever B (see Fig. 13) with the laterallyprojecting arm f, Figs. 3, 4t, 13, and 20, of the stop-lever F said incline f when the cuttercarrying end of the under cutter-lever is down rocking the stop-lever F on its fulcrum, thereby moving the hook end f out of the path of the rocker-lever F. A spring f21 holds arm f in contact with the incline f (see Fig. 13) at one time during the operation of the machine and holds the stop-lever F in proper working position. When the front or cutter-carrying end of the under cutter-lever B is moved upwardly to cut a buttonholc, said incline f will engage said laterally-projecting arm f of the stop-lever F and thereby move the hooked end f of the stop-lever F out of contact with said rockerbar F (See Figs. 3 and 13.) The rockerbar F is provided with a contact-surface f, against which a shoulder f on the upper edge of the under cutter-lever B contacts immediately after said disengagement of stop lever F with the transverse rocker-bar F (See Fig. 13.) Said shoulder f bears against said contact-surfacef and holds the transverse rocker-shaftF back positively for the purpose now to be explained. The transverse rocker-bar F is provided with a bearing-lugf (see Figs. 3, 4, and 23,) which at a certain time comes iutoengagement with a lug on the worm feed-gearf thereby locking the gear and preventing the further rotation of said gear, and consequently further movement of the feeding and stitching mechanisms, or, in other words, of the machine; but during the time that the transverse rocker-bar F is held back by means of the upward movement of the forward end of. the under cutter-lever B said shoulderf of the transverse rocker-bar is kept out of the path of said lug f on the back of gear f, so that the machineis free to feed and stitch. A suit.-

every, two revolutions of the gearf or, in

other words, but one revolution during the feeding and stitching of the buttonhole.

At the completion of the buttonhole the stop-lever F eccentrically mounted on and carried by the hub f is so moved that its hooked end f engages the shoulder f on the transverse rocker-bar F and rocks the transverse rocker-bar, so as to bring the end of its bearing-lug f into the path of the lug f on the feed worm-gear f". Consequently the machine is stopped; but just prior to said contact the rear end of the stoplever F is carried against the downwardlyprojecting arm f of the three-armed rocker R on the transverse stitching-starting shaft B When arm f is thus engaged, the other arm f is rocked into engagement with the shaft-connector f which is loosely mounted on an eccentric f fast on said shaft 13 the 'tooth f of which is during the stitching operation in contact with the shoulder f (see Figs. 2 and 10) of the belt-shipper f, the forkf whereof engages the edges of the driving-belt and holds the belt upon said driving-pulley G but when said armf is rocked upwardly said shaft-connector f 31 is lifted out of engagement with the belt-shipper f, which is then rocked by the action of the spring f (see Figs. 1 and 3,) so as to pull the belt from the fast pulley G onto the loose pulley G The belt-shipperf has a downwardly-projectinglugf,which engages on the inner face of the bracket A in which the loose pulley G is journaled, when the belt-shipper is in the position to hold the belt on the loose pulley. The belt-shipper f is pivoted atf on the supported bracket A of the machine. The belt-shipper is conveniently provided wit-h a handle f If it is desired to stop the machine, for example, when a thread breaks or in adjusting the machine, the thumb-leverf fulcrumed to the frame at f, Fig. 5, with its inner end under the shaft-connector f may be depressed. A spring f (see Fig. 12) throughout the stitching operation holds the shoulder f of the shaft-connector f loosely mounted on the eccentric, fast on the stitching-starting shaft B against the projection f of the beltshipper. Consequently the stitchin g-startin g shaft B which is used to actuate the cutting mechanism, also performs the function of, first,makinga mechanical connection by mov ing the shaft-connector f with the stitching mechanism, and, secondly, maintains that mechanical connection of the stitching-starting shaft 13 with the stitching mechanism throughout the entire stitch feeding and stitching operations of the machine. Then the eccentric on which the shaft-connector f is mounted thrusts said pawl toward the rear of the machine, it thereby moves the belt-shipper fork f so as to throw the belt on the loose pulley G on the bracket A of the machine upon the pulley G which is fast on the under shaft G. This interdependence of the stitching-starting shaft, which also by the described mechanical connections operates the cutting mechanism with the buttonhole-stitching mechanism of the machine, is a novel feature of my present invention, and the high efficiency of my present machine is in part due to the fact that the eccentric f on which the shaft-connectorf is mounted, is so shaped and timed that the stitching operation is begun before the upper and under cutter-levers have moved back to normal position. This also is a feature of novelty, for heretofore the stitching mechanism has not been set in motion until after the cutting mechanism has come to a rest. Consequently by my present invention 1 effect a certain saving of time in the operation of the machine, which saving, taken in connection with savings of time at other points of the machine, results in a machine of much higher speed than any heretofore produced, so far as I am advised. In this connection I now point out that the under cutter-lever in consequence of the shape of the triangular eccentric b is moved away from its cutting position at a much higher rate of speed than the upper cutter is moved away from its cutting position. This high speed of the return movement of the under cutter-lever B gives a highspeed pull to the link 12 whereby the rocker-arm b, which is in engagement with the turn-table, is givena high speed during the time that it pushes the turn-table from cutting position into initial stitching position, and immediately upon the movement of the turn-table into initial stitching position the stitching mechanism is started up by the practicallyinstantaneous outward end thrust of the shaft-connectorf but an important point to be observed by persons making machines to embody my present invention is to so time the triangular eccentric b and the eccentric of the shaft-connector f that the high point of the latter eccentric shall effect the outward end thrust of said shaft-connector f almost simultaneously with the engagement of the high point of the triangular cam with the overhanging arm I) of the under cutter-lever. In my Patent No. 451,498, of May 5, 1891, by means of the angle-lever A of the under cutter-lever A I secured a quick return of the turn-table from cutting to initial stitching position; but I did not in said patent make the spindle-shaft a which drove the cutter system, interdependent with the stitching mechanism, as in my present machine, because in the machine of said Pat ent No. 451,498 I threw the worm A out of connection with the Worm-gear A on said spindle-shaft A as soon as the buttonhole was out, so that there was no mechanical connection between the spindle-shaft and the stitching-shaft B of the machine during the time that the stitching operation was going on.

It will be observed that by my present construction I dispense with clutch members on the stitching-shaft and that the only clutch members required in my machine are those upon the stitching-starting shaft-to wit, the Worm-gear Z) on the driving-pin carrier (Z and its parts. It is to be noted also that the stitching-starting shaft B during the latter part of its rotation for the operation of the cutting system starts the stitching instru mentalities into operation and that the shaft B is not automatically stopped until after the stitching of one side of one portion of the small end of the buttonhole is begun. This is due to the timing of the triangular eccentric b and of the eccentric on which the shaf connectorf is mounted, and hence it is that rotation of the stitching-starting shaft 13 is required to effect the stitching of one portion of the small end of the buttonhole. The stitching-starting shaft consequently is also a stitching-shaft in my machine. It starts the stitching, or effects by its rotation the stitching of a portion of the small end of the buttonhole, and by holding its eccentric f31 with the high point thereof toward the rear end of the machine holds the shaft-connector f in its outer position and, in conjunction with the spring f, (the spring being to prevent accidental displacement of the shaftconnector with the belt-shipper,) maintains the stitching-feed movement of the machine and the stitching operation of the machine throughout the stitching of the buttonhole. During a part of the rotation of said shaft B it is not only actuating the cutting mechanism, but it is simultaneously operative in effecting the initial stitching of the buttonhole. By driving the stitching-starting shaft B by the worm-gear Z9 and rotating worm 6 I avoid the actuation of the shaft 13 bya belt. If the shaft 13 were actuated by a belt to a pulley thereon, then during the cutting operation, when there is a good deal of resistauce offered by the material to be cut to the strain of the belt, the belt will tend to slip, and the practical result will be that the cutter will not be properly operative and will remain stationary in the work and against the cutter-brass. By the use of the Worm-gear and worm the strain that is brought upon the actuating devices of the cutting mechanism during the cutting operation is distributed, and the practical result is that by the employment of the Worm-gear and worm for driving the shaft B the cutting mechanism is operated with much more power and at a greater speed than would be possible by the use of a pulley, and this increased rapidity of operation of the cutting system also brings the stitching system into operation sooner than heretofore, and thus the high effective speed of my machine is in part due to the employment of the worm and worm-gear for driving the stitching-starting shaft, whereby the interdependent cutting and stitching mechanisms are properly operated with increased relative speed and reliability and the parts come into operation at the proper time one in relation to the other. The slip of the belt

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